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Sorry if you’ve answered this question before. I couldn’t find a reason. My question is why did you buy a black XDiavelS and change your WR250R to all black when you’re ultra concerned about visibility on the streets? Assuming you’re still gonna use your dual sport on paved roads? The bike is part of your visibility, not just your clothing. Your CBR1000RR stands out visibly, but now your dual sport is less visible.
Please help! I want to get a cbr1000rr and have heard you say that the 2012-13 had a more comfortable riding position. I haven't gotten to compare to the riding position of the newer models but is it worth getting a 2012 just for comfort? I can get a newer model for virtually the same price but would def prefer the 2012 if it was a lot more comfortable. unfortunately if I get a 2012 it would have to be shipped to me so there is no way for me to compare.
CycleCruza with the wear being on the edges only, that means they were not fully engaged 100%, looks like only a quarter of the splines were catching each other. Something must of been wrong like that spacer was to big or something.
Sorry to hear man! Good choice though on your pick of the thumper 280 kit. I've been running the Thumper 280cc kit for 3 years now (along with a stroker crank, cams, ported heads, etc) It really adds some nice umph to the bike. BTW if you need a spare stock OEM engine I have on sitting in a crate (Used an entirely different engine on my 306cc build) and shelved my stock engine. Low mileage.
The consensus seems to be that the sprocket was installed backwards and the splines were not fully engaged the fact that the sprocket was aftermarket is irrelevant it is obvious that the splines didn't go all the way on because only half of it is worn. Expensive lesson but we all make mistakes. As little miles that are on that bike I would be very tempted to just weld the sprocket on and ride the piss out of it until it needed some real work done to it the shaft and sprocket are both junk anyways so it's not like you are going to ruin anything also once you split a case you are more likely to have leaks and nuts and bolts backing out and all those other issues just seems such a waste to open an engine there's nothing wrong with
Even if it was installed backwards, which it wasn't, it shouldn't have stripped the splines on the shaft. The sprocket was fully seated 100% and torqued to spec and nut was staked down.
If its installed backwards, it will pull the teeth to one side, and either your sprocket teeth or spline teeth will shear. Most likely whichever has less metal will shear first (which is why your CS was destroyed).
CycleCruza the steel doesn't lie there's only 1 way that can happen if the spline dimensions are identical. The teeth on the shaft did not go all the way through the splines on the sprocket!
The sprocket was not meant for my wr250r but was sold as fitting it. If you watch this video, it shows how these inferior sprockets can cause damage: th-cam.com/video/aOxBF80eMrI/w-d-xo.html
I consulted with the tech prior to putting the sprocket on just make sure I put it on the correct way. Like I said it was on flush and on the correct side.
sorry to hear that man! just bought a 2018 wr/r its my favorite bike i've ever rode. hope you get it running better than ever and upload some good WR/R videos. LETS GO FOR A RIDE!
Very sorry about the WRR man, i wish i could do something to help (and if there is let me know). Thank you for posting these videos so we can all learn from your achievements and mistakes. You are very entertaining and charismatic and i am always looking forward to the next video for the WRR/CBRRR/XDS action, entertainment, and knowledge you are so good at sharing. Good luck man! I hope the bigbore brings you big smiles, once i put a few years on my WRR I would love to get one.
That sucks but honestly, if it was me, I wouldn't bother with the big bore kit if you're only going to go from 250 - 280cc. Maybe better to just wait until you have a lot of miles on it and want to rebuild the top end. Then go with the big bore kit.
I know it really sucks but you will prob will save multiple Subs from having the same issue by sharing your experiences. That’s worth something. Keep up the good work
Red loctite on the splines can help prevent what happened (known issue with DRZ's) but makes it a pain to remove but will save you a countershaft replacement. I have always used Renthal for my sprocket needs and have never been let down.
If half of the spline is still on the sprocket, that part of the spline was not in contact with the shaft, otherwise it would be ground down too. There is no way it was all the way on and spun on the shaft without stripping the spline. You were only using 1/2 the area of the spline to drive the chain. It needs ALL OF IT.
Pro X makes top quality engine parts. I always ran they’re piston kits back in my two stroke days. I’m also of the opinion you put it on backwards. I’ve always changed sprockets out never had issues. You can’t rely on a website telling you a part will fit you have to pay attention and notice shit when you install it.
The nut backed off when you were riding. At 1:37 I can see it's backed off. I had 3 nuts loosen on my WR250R. I catch them when they just start loosening. I can see it when the stake is not lined up. I don't know why the nut isn't reverse threaded. Looked line the spline had less damage. I would have thrown a new sprocket on and seen how long it drove.
Hi Cruza, live and learn. I see a lot of riders mention the DRZ400. Just saw the Suzi 2019 model announcement. Once again, no changes. No 6-spd, no FI. I was holding out. Looks like a 250R. for me. Can't wait another year. Keep up your great vlogs!
gees, tough break on the spline grind. that sucks worse than a hoover vc, and those have some good suction too. shame it left you stranded with the embarrassment of slight humiliation tagging along. BUT, the splined cog gear only needs to slip on. should have been a clue at installation. good to see that you are still with us sharing your experiences of fun time . . eventho rarely being stranded. me personally, i wouldn't do a upgrade on the motor, but do by all means do keep the original parts when the unexpected happens. . . . got to have something to fall back on. do not give them your OEM stuff in trade for a lesser price. stuff for bikes are really expensive . . especially for that yamaha. have fun and stay safe my friend.
I have no good experience with proX. I used a piston from them in a older 2 stroke mx, after around 10-15h of light riding the piston actually crumbeled into pieces. So im having a good time splitting the engine to get all the metal pieces out.
The OEM sprocket looks a LOT beefier, that ultralight sprocket looks weak AF. I would probably go back to OEM, unless you also changed the gearing and need a different front sprocket.
I used to use lightweight aluminum sprockets but they just didn't last long enough. The teeth of the sprockets would wear abnormally fast. Granted I am riding liter bikes, but it did teach me a lesson. Maybe stick to steel sprockets from now on.
Yep, it's all about tolerances. You pay more for tighter tolerances because the manufacturing cost is higher. If it makes you feel any better when you do your own work you are going to occasionally end up costing yourself more than if you had it done. But if you were to track it over time you come out so far ahead. Put another way sometimes learning cost some money but you get that initial investment back time and time again. At the end of the day (and a lighter wallet) you'll have an even badder bike with that bore kit.
@CycleCruza...weld the OEM sprocket to the shaft and do your engine mod after the season is over. Get used to those new shocks and throw the aftermarket sprocket in the garbage. Stick with JT sprockets if you ever go aftermarket again.
The self cleaning feature I can see being useful... The "light weight" part is absolutely pointless unless you are a professional racer where an ounce might make a difference. (In Cyclecruza's case his CAMERA adds more weight.)
Not only would I call Rocky Mountain, but also call the manufacturer of the sprocket. That sucks. I might just weld the OEM one back on there for now and run the piss out it until it wears out, then take the engine out after that!
you could go stroker since the cases have to be split,I wouldn't though. I'd go with the big bore top end like you are and possibly cam shaft upgrade . possibly have head milled if you don't mind running premium pump gas.
If you had to use a mallet to get the sprocket on, either the sprocket teeth or the spline wasn't aligned. Never have I ever had to use a mallet to force on a countershaft sprocket or get one to come off. Hands only is all you should need. And I'm telling you right now, you put the countershaft sprocket on backwards. You had the flat side facing out, when you should've had the indented side facing out. That ridge doesn't go against your transmission, it goes against your locking nut. RMATV/MC is going to see that, especially if they see your videos which they most likely did. The rubber on your OEM sprocket is just an anti-vibration mechanism. It just cuts down on noise and vibration. That's why most aftermarket sprockets don't have those rubber damping buffers. It's not absolutely mandatory. You just have to make sure the direction of install is correct. Expensive lesson to learn, sorry it jacked your bike up that bad my dude. I like your channel.
If its installed backwards, it will pull the teeth to one side, and either your sprocket teeth or spline teeth will shear. Most likely whichever has less metal will shear first (which is why your CS was destroyed).
@@mcragosta Not that I like when people break shit or make a simple mistake, but he totally had it on backwards, only part of the teeth stripped and it was clearly flat side out on the video. Idc what the minimum wage Indian tech supporter said, that shit is clearly on backwards, G.O.T though of they still paid for it, that's super awesome of them. 👍
Can't wait to see the 280, make it snappy :) I am getting a SWM rs650r. Don't you have them in the states? Low maintenance cheap and good. A bit.more power...
So after you installed the sprocket and torqued the nut and peened it over, did you check for any play before installing the chain? The chain is super rigid resisting right-left play and can easily mask a wandering sprocket on the shaft. Still RMATV should of never listed it as a compatible part if it had exposed output shaft splines (freeplay) hope they set you right.
I'm sorry about your bike CC. Good to have a back up bike or bikes lol. I haven't rode in nearly 2 months!! But, I get my HOG tomorrow!! I'm picking her up from Florida and riding the 95 all the way back to the big Apple. Yahoooooo! 😁🤗
I haven’t been riding long but I think it's usually recommended you change the chain at the same time. The chain does mold over time with the sprockets they engage with. Is this legit? Let me know. Again, I haven’t riden for long, but I've combed over a lot of info for future mod ideas on my bike. I currently have a 2012 Honda 600 cbr rr. I don't know much about bikes let alone dirt bikes. It's my next bike purchase. Keep up the great vlogs Cruza!
Sorry that happened but man just leave the bike alone! I didn’t change my front sprocket/chain/rear sprocket until 18k Miles. I know you don’t have half the mileage that my bike has. 32k miles on my KLR 2014 new edition and I ride every single day. ( rain, cold, heat)
CycleCruza I've personally installed a 280 big bore kit on a 250f and while it does give better hit on the bottom end, I noticed that you lose top end rev out and it caused me to have to put a smaller rear sprocket on my bike to get top speed back again. That sprocket thing is strange. Never had that happen on a bike. The best lessons are (unfortunately) usually learned in this manner.
Dude, that freakin sucks!!!! Hopefully Rocky Mountain will do something, they have sent me wrong parts several time and then argued with me about them.
I don't know if you did the sprocket change yourself or the shop, but did your OEM CS sprocket had a washer behind it? My 2017 SV650 did, and with the aftermarket new sprocket, the washer didn't make it completely fit the sprocket into the shaft, and thus compromised the fitment of the washer lock, so I deleted the washer, and put the aftermarket new sprocket in without it since the washer lock fitment took precedence. I may not have realized it, but that washer could have prevented my sprocket from completely fitting in, and could have been in your shoes earlier.
If you knew how much engineering and testing went into those OEM parts, I bet you'd think twice about replacing them! Especially ones connecting with your main drive shaft!
If you believe you installed it properly send the sprocket out for a metallurgical analysis and if it comes back with paperwork proving it was make out of sub standard material or the heat treating process was not done you have a nice lawsuit. I have been working on motorcycles and other equipment for a long time and I can see only part of the splines were engaged weather it was your fault or a defect can be figured out for less and a couple hundred dollars!
I might just do that. The thickness of the aftermarket front sprocket is thinner than the oem sprocket which allowed from some movement and the torque from the chain must have caused it pull on the sprocket to the side which caused the partial stripping.
Well I know a lot of companies that provide oem sprockets, for example Sunstar provides a lot of the OEM sprockets for Japanese bikes. Supersprox provides them for KTM and Husky. But yea, those are quality sprockets, not cheap ones.
You should have bought it from vortex. Extremely reliable. Lighter and just as strong if not better. I been threw 6 sprocket installs racking a total of 60,000+ miles.
Honest question guys, why go for a 250 4 stroke? I mean if you don't need the extra power then sure but if you want more power why don't you get a Beta 390 or any brand 500 or something? I guess maybe price but doesn't look like this dude cares about price much.
Thanks for sharing this. I've used expensive after-market alloy sprockets on Liter bikes. They never failed but they worried me. Especially at warp speeds under acceleration loads. Light alloy just isn't as strong as steel. You did nothing wrong here. The dealer and supplier should share the costs of your repair. Or we should all stop buying aftermarket sprockets. It's as simple as that.
CycleCruza I’ve used Sunstar sprockets for 25 years and have never had any issues. I’m sorry to hear about your bike. I’m sure she’ll be even better once you get her fixed.
there are few different WR 250s over the years from yamaha including a two stroke in the 1990's I wonder if they sent you a sprocket for a different model WR
Looks like the shaft hole on the after market sprocket has a larger diameter, even considering the damage to it's splines. Rocky mountain ATM probably told you that you are the only one that has had a problem with this sprocket?
I hate when stuff like that happens!! I had a bolt snap on my gear arm that tightens onto splines into transmission had to wait 1 month for the part from Suzuki.
I don't know why they charge you an extra hour for to put the Big Bore Kit on when they have to remove the head anyways. I believe you should be able negotiate that.
Definitely sorry about the WR, absolutely sucks CC. I hope that either Rocky Mountain or the manufacture does the right thing and at least helps with the repair of their obviously subpar product. In the meantime, you'll have to get back on that CBR, which is such a punishment, I know ;)
CycleCruza cool.. But CycleCruza mannne, no reviews used it on a wr250r and you went ahead to be the Guinea pig!? .. Anyways sucks to have that happen to your bike.. At least u got other bikes to have fun on in the meantime 👍🏽
CycleCruza nah the sprocket is suppose to slide right on. Put the sprocket on, Put the washer on, put glue on the lock nut, tighten up the lock nut to torque spec. Don’t over torque or you will tear the splines up. Last step pull the lock tabs/washer edges over the lock nut. Hope you get your bike fixed soon.
See i wanted to change the gearing on my ktm 390 but i could only find cheaper front sprockets and after looking at the factory sprocket compared to the aftermarket they didnt even look the same. I ended up just changing the rear sprocket with a factory ktm sprocket and it cost me the same as what an aftermarket would have cost
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Sorry if you’ve answered this question before. I couldn’t find a reason.
My question is why did you buy a black XDiavelS and change your WR250R to all black when you’re ultra concerned about visibility on the streets? Assuming you’re still gonna use your dual sport on paved roads?
The bike is part of your visibility, not just your clothing. Your CBR1000RR stands out visibly, but now your dual sport is less visible.
Please help! I want to get a cbr1000rr and have heard you say that the 2012-13 had a more comfortable riding position. I haven't gotten to compare to the riding position of the newer models but is it worth getting a 2012 just for comfort? I can get a newer model for virtually the same price but would def prefer the 2012 if it was a lot more comfortable. unfortunately if I get a 2012 it would have to be shipped to me so there is no way for me to compare.
CycleCruza with the wear being on the edges only, that means they were not fully engaged 100%, looks like only a quarter of the splines were catching each other. Something must of been wrong like that spacer was to big or something.
CycleCruza you definitely think it’s from a part you installed or do u think the chain might have been too tight?
LiveLaughLove they are all the same when it comes to comfort. Cbr600 and cbr1000 are the same. Go sit on it at the dealership
UPDATE: I FINALLY got a call to let me know if they will pay for the $1000 Repair or not: th-cam.com/video/1Y-_uaEHXFU/w-d-xo.html
Update: New Video explaining why I have to get another bike for my health: th-cam.com/video/vqfm54X2B6A/w-d-xo.html
FYI - Video that talks about why you should buy brand name sprockets: th-cam.com/video/aOxBF80eMrI/w-d-xo.html
NEW VIDEO! My YZ450FX vs WR250R - Do I HATE my WR250R Now: th-cam.com/video/_-cJj5AlncI/w-d-xo.html
My NEW Motorcycle BUILD Series: th-cam.com/video/ajbg-0-OVnY/w-d-xo.html
NEW VIDEO: Why a BIG BORE KIT is a WASTE of Money: th-cam.com/video/mnQdsBd7t60/w-d-xo.html
$1013 sprocket that saved you a few ounces for an hour and cost you a bike for a month.
Sometimes you have to learn the hard way. lol I wish someone had told me to only use OEM for the counter sprocket.
CycleCruza I know all about that myself. Oh well, you get the Big Bore Kit you've been wanting anyway.
Roadstar1602 keep passing the blame.
Sorry to hear man! Good choice though on your pick of the thumper 280 kit. I've been running the Thumper 280cc kit for 3 years now (along with a stroker crank, cams, ported heads, etc) It really adds some nice umph to the bike. BTW if you need a spare stock OEM engine I have on sitting in a crate (Used an entirely different engine on my 306cc build) and shelved my stock engine. Low mileage.
The consensus seems to be that the sprocket was installed backwards and the splines were not fully engaged the fact that the sprocket was aftermarket is irrelevant it is obvious that the splines didn't go all the way on because only half of it is worn. Expensive lesson but we all make mistakes. As little miles that are on that bike I would be very tempted to just weld the sprocket on and ride the piss out of it until it needed some real work done to it the shaft and sprocket are both junk anyways so it's not like you are going to ruin anything also once you split a case you are more likely to have leaks and nuts and bolts backing out and all those other issues just seems such a waste to open an engine there's nothing wrong with
Even if it was installed backwards, which it wasn't, it shouldn't have stripped the splines on the shaft. The sprocket was fully seated 100% and torqued to spec and nut was staked down.
If its installed backwards, it will pull the teeth to one side, and either your sprocket teeth or spline teeth will shear. Most likely whichever has less metal will shear first (which is why your CS was destroyed).
CycleCruza the steel doesn't lie there's only 1 way that can happen if the spline dimensions are identical. The teeth on the shaft did not go all the way through the splines on the sprocket!
The sprocket was not meant for my wr250r but was sold as fitting it. If you watch this video, it shows how these inferior sprockets can cause damage: th-cam.com/video/aOxBF80eMrI/w-d-xo.html
I consulted with the tech prior to putting the sprocket on just make sure I put it on the correct way. Like I said it was on flush and on the correct side.
sorry to hear that man! just bought a 2018 wr/r its my favorite bike i've ever rode. hope you get it running better than ever and upload some good WR/R videos. LETS GO FOR A RIDE!
Very sorry about the WRR man, i wish i could do something to help (and if there is let me know).
Thank you for posting these videos so we can all learn from your achievements and mistakes. You are very entertaining and charismatic and i am always looking forward to the next video for the WRR/CBRRR/XDS action, entertainment, and knowledge you are so good at sharing. Good luck man! I hope the bigbore brings you big smiles, once i put a few years on my WRR I would love to get one.
lets go for a ride (not)
Christian Farfán CC is probably reading this comment, laughing then slowly turning the laughs into tears
😂😂
Only on the cbr1000rr or Ducati XDiavel , just no urban fookery for a while....
NO SLLLLLIIIIIIIDDDDDDEEEE ACTION BABY :( love ur vids btw cruza
Damn !! Wr250arrr gonna be down for a bit but gonna come back stronger
Sorry about about the WR CycleCruza that things gonna be a total beast! When your done with it. It looks awesome man....
That sucks but honestly, if it was me, I wouldn't bother with the big bore kit if you're only going to go from 250 - 280cc. Maybe better to just wait until you have a lot of miles on it and want to rebuild the top end. Then go with the big bore kit.
I need to do some more research. They say it gives nice bump in power down low. I was fine with oem power though.
One of my favourite TH-cam channels right here, and easily my go to channel for anything motorcycle related. Keep up the good work man!
I know it really sucks but you will prob will save multiple Subs from having the same issue by sharing your experiences. That’s worth something. Keep up the good work
Very sorry about your 250, but thanks for sharing the info. I will be relevant to my new Nc700 when it comes time to change sprockets and chain.
I have been using renthal sprockets and jt sprockets 4 many years with no problems make sure you install the sprocket on correctly
Red loctite on the splines can help prevent what happened (known issue with DRZ's) but makes it a pain to remove but will save you a countershaft replacement. I have always used Renthal for my sprocket needs and have never been let down.
If half of the spline is still on the sprocket, that part of the spline was not in contact with the shaft, otherwise it would be ground down too. There is no way it was all the way on and spun on the shaft without stripping the spline. You were only using 1/2 the area of the spline to drive the chain. It needs ALL OF IT.
Pro X makes top quality engine parts. I always ran they’re piston kits back in my two stroke days. I’m also of the opinion you put it on backwards. I’ve always changed sprockets out never had issues. You can’t rely on a website telling you a part will fit you have to pay attention and notice shit when you install it.
The nut backed off when you were riding. At 1:37 I can see it's backed off. I had 3 nuts loosen on my WR250R. I catch them when they just start loosening. I can see it when the stake is not lined up. I don't know why the nut isn't reverse threaded. Looked line the spline had less damage. I would have thrown a new sprocket on and seen how long it drove.
Sorry to hear CC! Looking forward to your new 280 though!
Keep ya head up CycleCruza! Hopefully with the new bore kit and transmission fix the WR will come back bigger and better!
What a pain, sorry to hear about this.
Hi Cruza, live and learn. I see a lot of riders mention the DRZ400. Just saw the Suzi 2019 model announcement. Once again, no changes. No 6-spd, no FI. I was holding out. Looks like a 250R. for me. Can't wait another year. Keep up your great vlogs!
gees, tough break on the spline grind. that sucks worse than a hoover vc, and those have some good suction too.
shame it left you stranded with the embarrassment of slight humiliation tagging along.
BUT, the splined cog gear only needs to slip on. should have been a clue at installation.
good to see that you are still with us sharing your experiences of fun time . . eventho rarely being stranded.
me personally, i wouldn't do a upgrade on the motor, but do by all means do keep the original parts when the unexpected happens. .
. . got to have something to fall back on. do not give them your OEM stuff in trade for a lesser price. stuff for bikes are really expensive . . especially for that yamaha.
have fun and stay safe my friend.
I have no good experience with proX. I used a piston from them in a older 2 stroke mx, after around 10-15h of light riding the piston actually crumbeled into pieces. So im having a good time splitting the engine to get all the metal pieces out.
The OEM sprocket looks a LOT beefier, that ultralight sprocket looks weak AF. I would probably go back to OEM, unless you also changed the gearing and need a different front sprocket.
I used to use lightweight aluminum sprockets but they just didn't last long enough. The teeth of the sprockets would wear abnormally fast. Granted I am riding liter bikes, but it did teach me a lesson. Maybe stick to steel sprockets from now on.
Yep, it's all about tolerances. You pay more for tighter tolerances because the manufacturing cost is higher. If it makes you feel any better when you do your own work you are going to occasionally end up costing yourself more than if you had it done. But if you were to track it over time you come out so far ahead. Put another way sometimes learning cost some money but you get that initial investment back time and time again. At the end of the day (and a lighter wallet) you'll have an even badder bike with that bore kit.
@CycleCruza...weld the OEM sprocket to the shaft and do your engine mod after the season is over. Get used to those new shocks and throw the aftermarket sprocket in the garbage. Stick with JT sprockets if you ever go aftermarket again.
Hey cyclecruza I've been enjoying your channel for about a year now well done. I've learned a lot through your experience.
I got my first bike thanks to a CycleCruza vid two years ago.
The self cleaning feature I can see being useful...
The "light weight" part is absolutely pointless unless you are a professional racer where an ounce might make a difference.
(In Cyclecruza's case his CAMERA adds more weight.)
I can’t wait to get a wr250r here in SoCal. I wanted a dry for a while but the wr seems so much more reliable
Sorry to hear that cycle cruza... Hopefully you get to ride the bike very soon!
i dont understand. you are against aftermarket front sprocket but you are cool with aftermarket piston cylinder...
This is all experience to share on my channel.....
Good comment.
Thanks for posting, my winter projerct is to go back to stock
Not only would I call Rocky Mountain, but also call the manufacturer of the sprocket. That sucks. I might just weld the OEM one back on there for now and run the piss out it until it wears out, then take the engine out after that!
I did, sent pics . So far I haven't heard back. I'm just going to get the work done, I'm look forward to the big bore kit being installed.
Welding on the sprocket may cause issues with the hardness of the sprocket.
Then you'd throw it away and get it repaired for $1000. Nothing lost.
You are right as long is the welder is careful. I think there is an oil seal for the tranny. Difficult to keep the heat from it,.
What a bummer. But hey, gives reason to modify the project bike.
LETS GO FOR A WALK!!!!!!!!!!!! HAHAH, sucks man :( Live and learn.
you could go stroker since the cases have to be split,I wouldn't though. I'd go with the big bore top end like you are and possibly cam shaft upgrade . possibly have head milled if you don't mind running premium pump gas.
Yeah I forgot about the cam shaft upgrade. Head milled? I alway run premium anyways.
CycleCruza machine shop will mill/shave head at mating surface to raise compression ratio.will add marginal torque.
Brant Lloyd probably so.the larger piston will raise compression ratio some plus milled head a little more.
You live you learn. Could have been much worse.
bummers man, but on the bright side looks like you will be upgrading your top end and adding some cc’s. God bless
If you had to use a mallet to get the sprocket on, either the sprocket teeth or the spline wasn't aligned. Never have I ever had to use a mallet to force on a countershaft sprocket or get one to come off. Hands only is all you should need.
And I'm telling you right now, you put the countershaft sprocket on backwards. You had the flat side facing out, when you should've had the indented side facing out. That ridge doesn't go against your transmission, it goes against your locking nut. RMATV/MC is going to see that, especially if they see your videos which they most likely did.
The rubber on your OEM sprocket is just an anti-vibration mechanism. It just cuts down on noise and vibration. That's why most aftermarket sprockets don't have those rubber damping buffers. It's not absolutely mandatory. You just have to make sure the direction of install is correct.
Expensive lesson to learn, sorry it jacked your bike up that bad my dude. I like your channel.
Just a light tap for peace of mind....
If its installed backwards, it will pull the teeth to one side, and either your sprocket teeth or spline teeth will shear. Most likely whichever has less metal will shear first (which is why your CS was destroyed).
It was NOT installed backwards, I consulted with the tech to verify.
Looks to me that he does have the flat side facing out at around 1:41.
@@mcragosta Not that I like when people break shit or make a simple mistake, but he totally had it on backwards, only part of the teeth stripped and it was clearly flat side out on the video. Idc what the minimum wage Indian tech supporter said, that shit is clearly on backwards, G.O.T though of they still paid for it, that's super awesome of them. 👍
Bummer man, good luck with the fix. I look forward to hearing how you like the 280 kit. I need to get my annual "wr250r praise" video out : )
Can't wait to see the 280, make it snappy :) I am getting a SWM rs650r. Don't you have them in the states? Low maintenance cheap and good. A bit.more power...
So after you installed the sprocket and torqued the nut and peened it over, did you check for any play before installing the chain? The chain is super rigid resisting right-left play and can easily mask a wandering sprocket on the shaft.
Still RMATV should of never listed it as a compatible part if it had exposed output shaft splines (freeplay) hope they set you right.
I'm sorry about your bike CC. Good to have a back up bike or bikes lol. I haven't rode in nearly 2 months!! But, I get my HOG tomorrow!! I'm picking her up from Florida and riding the 95 all the way back to the big Apple. Yahoooooo! 😁🤗
I haven’t been riding long but I think it's usually recommended you change the chain at the same time. The chain does mold over time with the sprockets they engage with. Is this legit? Let me know. Again, I haven’t riden for long, but I've combed over a lot of info for future mod ideas on my bike. I currently have a 2012 Honda 600 cbr rr. I don't know much about bikes let alone dirt bikes. It's my next bike purchase. Keep up the great vlogs Cruza!
all u need is the new countershaft. and a seal kit. 2 day job to dismantle and put back together.
INFORMATIVE!!!!!! Sorry for the bad news but this was a very informative video. Im always learning watching your videos.
Sorry that happened but man just leave the bike alone! I didn’t change my front sprocket/chain/rear sprocket until 18k Miles. I know you don’t have half the mileage that my bike has. 32k miles on my KLR 2014 new edition and I ride every single day. ( rain, cold, heat)
CycleCruza I've personally installed a 280 big bore kit on a 250f and while it does give better hit on the bottom end, I noticed that you lose top end rev out and it caused me to have to put a smaller rear sprocket on my bike to get top speed back again.
That sprocket thing is strange. Never had that happen on a bike. The best lessons are (unfortunately) usually learned in this manner.
I need my top end, I will research...thanks for sharing your experience!
Dude, that freakin sucks!!!! Hopefully Rocky Mountain will do something, they have sent me wrong parts several time and then argued with me about them.
always use stock front sprocket. only change the rear sprocket.
Have to disagree with you here man. Something was done incorrectly, you dont need to stay OEM with a countershaft.
I don't know if you did the sprocket change yourself or the shop, but did your OEM CS sprocket had a washer behind it? My 2017 SV650 did, and with the aftermarket new sprocket, the washer didn't make it completely fit the sprocket into the shaft, and thus compromised the fitment of the washer lock, so I deleted the washer, and put the aftermarket new sprocket in without it since the washer lock fitment took precedence. I may not have realized it, but that washer could have prevented my sprocket from completely fitting in, and could have been in your shoes earlier.
If you knew how much engineering and testing went into those OEM parts, I bet you'd think twice about replacing them! Especially ones connecting with your main drive shaft!
If you believe you installed it properly send the sprocket out for a metallurgical analysis and if it comes back with paperwork proving it was make out of sub standard material or the heat treating process was not done you have a nice lawsuit. I have been working on motorcycles and other equipment for a long time and I can see only part of the splines were engaged weather it was your fault or a defect can be figured out for less and a couple hundred dollars!
I might just do that. The thickness of the aftermarket front sprocket is thinner than the oem sprocket which allowed from some movement and the torque from the chain must have caused it pull on the sprocket to the side which caused the partial stripping.
Sorry to hear she's down for a bit mate but I bet with that engine upgrade she's gonna be on of the finest out there 😉👍
Oh man your gonna have to pull the whole engine to take off that shift shaft
live and learn bro..I'd love to see the drawing tolerances and material of that failed sprocket vs the oem
Lets go for a SHOP!
Guess ill stick to OEM front sprockets.
That's the smart thing to do...I learned the hard way.
Jman G lol
or just dont buy cheap aftermarket ones
Well I know a lot of companies that provide oem sprockets, for example Sunstar provides a lot of the OEM sprockets for Japanese bikes. Supersprox provides them for KTM and Husky. But yea, those are quality sprockets, not cheap ones.
i just on a aftermarket one knock on wood no issues
Weld it on and drive it until winter
Heck yeah. Might as well beat the OEM sprocket on flush and weld it. the shaft is ruined anyway.
You should have bought it from vortex. Extremely reliable. Lighter and just as strong if not better. I been threw 6 sprocket installs racking a total of 60,000+ miles.
Honest question guys, why go for a 250 4 stroke? I mean if you don't need the extra power then sure but if you want more power why don't you get a Beta 390 or any brand 500 or something? I guess maybe price but doesn't look like this dude cares about price much.
Thanks for sharing this.
I've used expensive after-market alloy sprockets on Liter bikes.
They never failed but they worried me.
Especially at warp speeds under acceleration loads.
Light alloy just isn't as strong as steel.
You did nothing wrong here.
The dealer and supplier should share the costs of your repair.
Or we should all stop buying aftermarket sprockets.
It's as simple as that.
I don't know how you kept your cool through all this. Keep on riding 👍
just weld it man much cheaper, but make sure is a hardened weld. You can't screw it up more than what it is.
JT racing sprockets have never failed me.
JT is good.
CycleCruza I’ve used Sunstar sprockets for 25 years and have never had any issues. I’m sorry to hear about your bike. I’m sure she’ll be even better once you get her fixed.
Was that sprocket made off shore?
most likely. looked like junk.
Never had an issue with JT Sprockets, if you do go aftermarket, get quality man.
there are few different WR 250s over the years from yamaha including a two stroke in the 1990's I wonder if they sent you a sprocket for a different model WR
Every time I hop on my bike I say the CC phrase "let's go for a ride!"
Did you contact the company where you bought the sprocket yet? I'd be surprised if you get any satisfaction but you have to try.
yes, no word yet though.
Looks like the shaft hole on the after market sprocket has a larger diameter, even considering the damage to it's splines.
Rocky mountain ATM probably told you that you are the only one that has had a problem with this sprocket?
CycleCruza always overcomes problems. If it was me i would have collapsed and cry for a week :P
I hate when stuff like that happens!! I had a bolt snap on my gear arm that tightens onto splines into transmission had to wait 1 month for the part from Suzuki.
yeah shit happens....
I don't know why they charge you an extra hour for to put the Big Bore Kit on when they have to remove the head anyways. I believe you should be able negotiate that.
Definitely sorry about the WR, absolutely sucks CC. I hope that either Rocky Mountain or the manufacture does the right thing and at least helps with the repair of their obviously subpar product. In the meantime, you'll have to get back on that CBR, which is such a punishment, I know ;)
Used a mallet to get it on!? You must have fit it wrong because seems to work for other people 🤔
Just a light tap to ensure it's fully on, more for peace of mind. None of those reviews had a wr250r.
CycleCruza cool.. But CycleCruza mannne, no reviews used it on a wr250r and you went ahead to be the Guinea pig!?
.. Anyways sucks to have that happen to your bike.. At least u got other bikes to have fun on in the meantime 👍🏽
JR BORIQUA7 lmao 😂😂😂😂
CycleCruza nah the sprocket is suppose to slide right on. Put the sprocket on, Put the washer on, put glue on the lock nut, tighten up the lock nut to torque spec. Don’t over torque or you will tear the splines up. Last step pull the lock tabs/washer edges over the lock nut.
Hope you get your bike fixed soon.
I was wondering why I didn’t see your dual sport and wow! Love your channel. 👍🏼
Well let's go for right! Just go back to OEM. Sick bike still!
You sure it wasn’t on backwards?
Dude I really love the blacked out wr250r so disappointed for you. That sux mate!
Maybe you can try out your towing rig now and gives a review of it.
OEM for electrical too !
See i wanted to change the gearing on my ktm 390 but i could only find cheaper front sprockets and after looking at the factory sprocket compared to the aftermarket they didnt even look the same. I ended up just changing the rear sprocket with a factory ktm sprocket and it cost me the same as what an aftermarket would have cost
That was a smart move.
How is the Dubya ARRRRRRR 250 ARRRRRRRRRRRR coming along CycleCruza?
By the looks of that gear compared to the oem -> Alarms should of been going off in your head like ding ding ding !
suzuki drz400 has slap with oem, that's why they have the locktight fix. even oem isnt always perfect
Whatever you have to do resurrect it mate. I think it's more special than the Diavel
Great videos just bought a WR250R so interesting stuff.
What tooth would you recommend the front sprocket be? I have a wr250r with a stock front sprocket.
stick with the 13t oem sprocket.....
oem sprocket is thicker than other one
i, think you didnt tighten it becaose it is too thin!
Sometimes you spend $1000 to rebuild the bottom end of your gearbox, sometimes you spend 10 minutes with a TIG welder, and put it on Craigslist :)