Suggestion: put the drain plug back in as soon as it drains. I forgot it one time and poured 3 quarts of new oil straight thru the motor into the drain pan that still contained the old oil.
Always found on the ZZR1400 that the oil level is never correct on paddock stand. I usually place a block of wood under the sidestand, or get someone to hold the bike upright.
I wouldn't skimp on oil. The cheapest I would go is Castrol, check oil level when the back wheel is on the ground not on a paddock stand, this will give a higher lever on the glass. I agree the bike feels smoother with new oil
I've been riding and owning Kawasaki's since the early 80's and every dealership mechanic has always said fill to nearly touching the upper line, so that when you're riding the level never goes below the lower line! It will be touching it or maybe even a millimeter over the lower line. The transmission will shift better with the proper amount of oil rather than barely enough.
@@GoblinRides Those are the MINIMUM requirements for the oil. To offer the most basic/essential level of protection. You aren't doing the engine any justice running it on the halfords crap.
You don't need to prime the filter on small engines like this with a sideways filter. The volume is so small that the flow is almost instantaneous and the residual oil in the engine will protect it. You would prime on a large engine where the filter has a couple quarts inside of and is mounted vertically. Waiting for 3 quarts to fill a filter on a diesel would be rought, but not so much when a quarter quart floods all of the filter.
Yeah that's what I originally thought. I did an oil and filter change on my ZX-14 a few months earlier, and didn't prime the filter then. But I saw it once on a video before doing my Z H2 and thought I'd try it. Couldn't hurt, but like you say, I don't think it's necessary. Thanks for the comment 🙂👍
@@GoblinRides priming the filter is usually a bad thing, because handling it is more likely to introduce contamination into the filter and cause damage. It's a lot less than the very brief interruption to oil pressure, which isn't an issue.
Use good oil and stick to the one brand. These are a fairly high stressed engine if you push them so skimping a few bucks on oil is foolish..having said that sticking to the one oil and changing it regularly eg every 3000 klms is probably better than a really good oil every 12000. Good on you for having a crack though
Don’t hand tighten the filter. If you read the workshop manual it will tell you specifically not to. Torque to 13 ft lbs using a cup tool. Can’t go wrong. Spend some cash on a torque wrench. Sump plug is 18 ft lbs
I don't understand why people don't use the pliers-type oil filter removal tool, instead I see all these idiotic gadgets to take off a simple oil filter
Are you aloud to do your own servicing on a lease bike ??????
Suggestion: put the drain plug back in as soon as it drains. I forgot it one time and poured 3 quarts of new oil straight thru the motor into the drain pan that still contained the old oil.
Always found on the ZZR1400 that the oil level is never correct on paddock stand. I usually place a block of wood under the sidestand, or get someone to hold the bike upright.
I wouldn't skimp on oil. The cheapest I would go is Castrol, check oil level when the back wheel is on the ground not on a paddock stand, this will give a higher lever on the glass.
I agree the bike feels smoother with new oil
I've been riding and owning Kawasaki's since the early 80's and every dealership mechanic has always said fill to nearly touching the upper line, so that when you're riding the level never goes below the lower line! It will be touching it or maybe even a millimeter over the lower line.
The transmission will shift better with the proper amount of oil rather than barely enough.
Was the test ride after the oil change ( No gloves on) to wear off the excess oil on your hands as the gravel scrapes them clean if you come off lol
Good vid...l always use castrol 1 power racing fully synthetic.
And genuine filter from kawasaki. 👍👍
You can switch the oil drain bolt to one with a hex head style bolt from most any older ZX-10R, they don't round off like that allen head will.
I use motul 7100 fully synthetic and a hiflo race filter on mine ' great vid tho mate 👌 👍
Excellent DIY guide, 3.5 Liters oil should sufficient (similar to ZX10R)
So you bought a 16K bike and use the Halfords oil. Champagne life style , lemonade pockets come to mind..
It has all the ratings stated in the manual, should be just fine if changed yearly. I don't like champagne lol 🤣 Thanks for the comment 👍
Sad to see to be honest.
@@GoblinRides Those are the MINIMUM requirements for the oil. To offer the most basic/essential level of protection. You aren't doing the engine any justice running it on the halfords crap.
16k? You are dreaming.
You don't need to prime the filter on small engines like this with a sideways filter. The volume is so small that the flow is almost instantaneous and the residual oil in the engine will protect it. You would prime on a large engine where the filter has a couple quarts inside of and is mounted vertically. Waiting for 3 quarts to fill a filter on a diesel would be rought, but not so much when a quarter quart floods all of the filter.
Yeah that's what I originally thought. I did an oil and filter change on my ZX-14 a few months earlier, and didn't prime the filter then. But I saw it once on a video before doing my Z H2 and thought I'd try it. Couldn't hurt, but like you say, I don't think it's necessary. Thanks for the comment 🙂👍
@@GoblinRides priming the filter is usually a bad thing, because handling it is more likely to introduce contamination into the filter and cause damage. It's a lot less than the very brief interruption to oil pressure, which isn't an issue.
Use good oil and stick to the one brand. These are a fairly high stressed engine if you push them so skimping a few bucks on oil is foolish..having said that sticking to the one oil and changing it regularly eg every 3000 klms is probably better than a really good oil every 12000. Good on you for having a crack though
Please wear gloves when you go out riding.....I've seen first HAND 🖐 the result of not wearing some.
Don’t hand tighten the filter. If you read the workshop manual it will tell you specifically not to. Torque to 13 ft lbs using a cup tool. Can’t go wrong. Spend some cash on a torque wrench. Sump plug is 18 ft lbs
Hogwash.......hand tight is plenty, as long as it doesn't leak......
@@mjb2093 No probs. Sounds like Kawasaki don't know what they're on about
Since your neighbors like loud noises, please get a straight pipe for your bike to indulge them!
You need to get a rad guard on your bike.if a stone pops that your looking at serious money.
always get genuine oil filter and good oil buy cheap and engine wont last
These zh2 like their oil at 1/3 of the sight window level.
Do not over fill.
Absolutely. If you’re on the top line it will blow by and leak out of the air intake where it goes into the blower
I don't understand why people don't use the pliers-type oil filter removal tool, instead I see all these idiotic gadgets to take off a simple oil filter
Could not agree more.......
5w 50 for me