Thanks for providing such a thorough explanation of the DR4 Pro. It is refreshing to find a tutorial that is so well done and complete. Manufacturers don’t do as good of a job.
Hi Andy I’ve been waiting for this video with anticipation and you haven’t disappointed, thank you for taking the time to produce this. The video is clear & concise and easy to follow, I’m pleased you left the couple of deliberate mistakes with the mounting board, it helps me to realise I’m not the only one that does that on the simplest of procedures. I would agree it’s probably complacency setting in over such an easy measurement. I don’t have the Pro version, rather the previous D4 model, except I also have the Metric Finger Joint templates along with about 10 or 12 Leigh Cutters (not in the nice box though). You very kindly left a link for a well priced upgrade kit that provides the VRS dust extraction/come router support and the nylon rod kit which goes through the fingers in order to allow single pass ”through dovetail joints”. Both kits are very reasonably priced I have to say. For the second kit mind you the user is required to drill holes in each of the fingers to accept the nylon rod, there is however a drawing supplied to make a jig to enable accurate drilling. However for those that do not wish to get the drill out, Leigh provide a full set of the latest fingers already drilled. Also with the upgrade kit, the latest manual is also supplied and as mentioned is of a very high quality both in the way it’s made but especially with the way it’s written. Easily one of the best manuals I’ve ever come across (along with Tormek) which is also backed up by numerous reviews. Although my D4 isn’t quite the same as your Pro model Andy, (mainly the body construction as far as I can tell) the operation of the jig appears to be pretty much the same so I think many other people with older jigs will also get tremendous benefit from the research and hard work you put into your videos. I’m looking forward to the next video in this series. Well done Andy, your videos are easily a cut above many seasoned veteran TH-cam video”s. Thank you for your time and sharing “the knowledge”.
+Steve Spiers i Hi Steve, as always thank you for your comments and for your support. And thank you for the additional information. For the record - those mistakes weren’t deliberate :-) The Dust extraction is well worth the upgrade - I will be showing the difference with and without on the next video - that will make it a no brainer. The unique selling point of the jig is the ability to make infinite spacing on the dovetails - so before drilling the fingers - do you need that functionality. If you are in a high volume shop then perhaps it makes sense - but if you are then the investment in the new fingers would be negligible - but I imagine you would have a faster solution than a leigh jig - CNC for example. Most of us would want to re-create the look and feel of hand cut dovetails - you don’t need the nylon rod or the fingers to do that. So why go down that route. (I am sure people will have a view on that). I hope the videos do add value beyond he DR4 Pro - that would be great to help a wider audience. Finger joints on the next video - and the first limitation of the system (spoiler alert). Cheers Andy
The Woodgrafter Ha ha, I wasn’t really suggesting you deliberately added the faux pas in at the beginning, I was rather saying thanks for leaving them in rather than editing them out, it just helps us lesser mortals feel less inadequate :) With regards to making the odd error, you need to consider that apart from having to remember exactly what your doing and the dialogue to go with it, you are also concentrating on delivering in a smooth, seamless and fluid production that will be both informative and interesting at the same time in order to keep the viewers attention and you are doing so. That being said you must expect the odd calculation error or slip of the tongue now and again and do you think that highly experienced professional production companies don’t have several takes before they have something they’re willing to put out, that’s why there are often so many outtakes. Andy did you get chance to look at the D4/D4R upgrade kit I was trying to describe and if so were we both talking about the same thing?
The nice chart at 8:05 is part of the external packaging label on the ACD24 Accessory Kit box. You are fortunate that the previous owner cut it out and included it. I did the same for mine.
Great video, Andy. I received my D4R Pro and the ACD24 Accessory Kit today. The ACD24 includes the VRS and the 11 router cutters. I haven't watched your other videos about this yet, but at 30:35, you aligned the VRS so the edge of the VRS rail was flush with the fingers. This is not correct, at least on my VRS. The top surface of the VRS rail is sloped, with the edge nearest the fingers lower than the peak near the middle of the rail. The instructions for the VRS, which you might not have received with your jig, show the slope and the correct way to set the height. To set the height of the VRS, use a flat board that is long enough to rest on the fingers and overhangs the VRS. With the adjustment knobs and button screws on both sides loose, raise the VRS bracketon one side until the peak of the VRS rail touches the bottom of the board. Tighten only the knob and repeat for the other side. When you are satisfied both sides are correct, tighten the button screws. If you align the VRS rail so the edge is flush with the fingers, the router will be at a slight angle when cutting the dovetails.
Thanks Mike, Yes I bought my jig second hand, it had a few bits missing so had to get in touch with Leigh for a few spares. Thank you for the tips. Cheers Andy
Hi Andy Many thanks for your reply and comments. I can say we’re definitely both agreed that the VRS kit is an absolute no-brainier. I’ve read several articles on this and apparently the difference is night and day. With regards to the second upgrade kit I mentioned I’m slightly confused or perhaps unsure I fully understand your remarks. The upgrade kit costs about £31.00 from Axminster and will bring the D4 & D4R up to the same specification of the newer D4R Pro. I’m not sure if you’ve had chance to watch the Leigh video on this particular upgrade? If not I’ll try to briefly give the main details: It will give earlier jigs the same cutting capabilities of the D4R Pro. It will allow single pass dovetails and box joints in 5 different cutting depths in a single pass due to the nylon rod restricting how deep the cutter is allowed to travel into the stock. The kit comes with upgrade instructions, a wire bound D4R Pro instruction book so the additional features the upgrade are fully covered, E7 elliptical guide bush, pin wrench for the guide bush, box joint spacers, sliding dovetail spacer. However to route single pass half blind dovetails it is apparently necessary for the fingers to have holes in one end in order to accommodate the nylon stop rod. However the D4 and D4R jigs do not have these holes hence the Leigh upgrade description goes on to describe 2 methods of achieving this, first and most cost effective is ti knock up a very simple jig to place the fingers in (dimensions included) and then preferably in a drill press simply drill the correct diameter hole then refit the fingers. Or for those who for whatever reason wouldn’t want to tackle that task, Leigh offer pre-drilled fingers but they’re quite costly. Are we talking about the same upgrade kit here Andy? Steve
+Steve Spiers Hi Steve, sorry my comments where very rushed on that day - I have been travelling out of country on business, so trying to keep on top of the channel in strange locations between various meetings etc. Yes we are talking about the same thing, I was picking up on drilling the holes in the fingers - and challenging if that was worth while - not the kit itself - this kit is definitely worth while for all the other functionality you get. In fact when I get into the safety station build (to demonstrate the Leigh jig in use) I will also be adapting the sliding dovetail jig to make cope and stick doors and rebates for the back panel. So in theory you could carry out all the joinery on a simple cupboard with only the Jig (with the upgrade kit). The thing I was challenging is do you need single pass dovetails in your life. The value of the jig is in the ability make varib spaced hand cut (like) dovetails. You tend to use single pass dovetails in a batch situation where production time may be a commodity. As a hobby woodworker, or a small fine furniture workshop - the craft is more important so I think most folk engaged in this channel will want to go with the variable option. For those where production time = money in high volume shop my hypothesis is that they would not be using a dovetail jig in the first place but some other mechanism to batch out joints, maybe not even dovetails. I expect to get push back on that point - so would be interested in views. So I was questioning if I would take the time to drill out the fingers OR if I would buy additional fingers OR would I not really use that functionality. Hope this helps clarify, and thank you for the excellent input on the upgrade kit. Cheers Andy
I don't understand about the adjustable bushing on the bottom of the router. I don't understand how it works or what it is for exactly. I have a Porter Cable router with a bushing but it is not adjustable at all. Please explain.
Hi Dave, If you look at your bush in the PC, then you will see it is round. So no matter how you hold your router the router but will always be the same distance from the edge of the Bush. The adjustable bush is not round, it is an elipse. So if you twist your router and run the elipse along your guide rail and turn your router, then the distance between the router bit and the edge of the Bush changes. The Leigh design allows you to twist the Bush, thereby adjusting the distance between the cutting face of the router bit and the edge of the Bush. Hope that helps Andy
nice vid Andy just found your channel mate if this video is anything to be judged on looking forward to other content Andy is that a Manchester accent or do my ears deceive me from Manchester my self just asking many thanks Harry
abmbarry, the manual that comes with the Leigh D4R Dovetail Jig lists hundreds of router models from 23 manufacturers. The only requirement for the router is that it must be able to use a guide ring. If your router is not listed, perhaps you can ask your mommy to increase your allowance so you can buy a router that will work with the jig and stop whining.
Hi, and thank you for watching this video, as always I look forward to your comments and thoughts.
Cheers
Andy
Thanks for providing such a thorough explanation of the DR4 Pro. It is refreshing to find a tutorial that is so well done and complete. Manufacturers don’t do as good of a job.
+Doug Stroud Hi Doug,
Thank you for the feedback, glad you are finding it useful.
Cheers
Andy
Hi Andy
Another great presentation mate, looking forward to the rest. As usual, your efforts are much appreciated.
+Rob Kernahan
Hi Rob, thank you for the feedback.
Kind Regards
Andy
excellent video. I do absorb much from your excellent presentations. Thank you for making the knowledge available.
Thank you for your kind words
Andy
I really appreciate your work doing this video. I bought one of these systems new and this is really helpful getting it up and running.
You are welcome,
Thank you for the feedback.
Cheers
Andy
Thank you again.
Cheers
Andy
Thank you. Your demo and explanation was very well done and helpful to me.
You are welcome,
I am glad you found it helpful.
Cheers
Andy
Hi Andy
I’ve been waiting for this video with anticipation and you haven’t disappointed, thank you for taking the time to produce this.
The video is clear & concise and easy to follow, I’m pleased you left the couple of deliberate mistakes with the mounting board, it helps me to realise I’m not the only one that does that on the simplest of procedures. I would agree it’s probably complacency setting in over such an easy measurement.
I don’t have the Pro version, rather the previous D4 model, except I also have the Metric Finger Joint templates along with about 10 or 12 Leigh Cutters (not in the nice box though). You very kindly left a link for a well priced upgrade kit that provides the VRS dust extraction/come router support and the nylon rod kit which goes through the fingers in order to allow single pass ”through dovetail joints”. Both kits are very reasonably priced I have to say.
For the second kit mind you the user is required to drill holes in each of the fingers to accept the nylon rod, there is however a drawing supplied to make a jig to enable accurate drilling. However for those that do not wish to get the drill out, Leigh provide a full set of the latest fingers already drilled. Also with the upgrade kit, the latest manual is also supplied and as mentioned is of a very high quality both in the way it’s made but especially with the way it’s written. Easily one of the best manuals I’ve ever come across (along with Tormek) which is also backed up by numerous reviews.
Although my D4 isn’t quite the same as your Pro model Andy, (mainly the body construction as far as I can tell) the operation of the jig appears to be pretty much the same so I think many other people with older jigs will also get tremendous benefit from the research and hard work you put into your videos.
I’m looking forward to the next video in this series. Well done Andy, your videos are easily a cut above many seasoned veteran TH-cam video”s. Thank you for your time and sharing “the knowledge”.
+Steve Spiers i
Hi Steve, as always thank you for your comments and for your support.
And thank you for the additional information.
For the record - those mistakes weren’t deliberate :-)
The Dust extraction is well worth the upgrade - I will be showing the difference with and without on the next video - that will make it a no brainer.
The unique selling point of the jig is the ability to make infinite spacing on the dovetails - so before drilling the fingers - do you need that functionality. If you are in a high volume shop then perhaps it makes sense - but if you are then the investment in the new fingers would be negligible - but I imagine you would have a faster solution than a leigh jig - CNC for example.
Most of us would want to re-create the look and feel of hand cut dovetails - you don’t need the nylon rod or the fingers to do that. So why go down that route. (I am sure people will have a view on that).
I hope the videos do add value beyond he DR4 Pro - that would be great to help a wider audience.
Finger joints on the next video - and the first limitation of the system (spoiler alert).
Cheers
Andy
The Woodgrafter
Ha ha, I wasn’t really suggesting you deliberately added the faux pas in at the beginning, I was rather saying thanks for leaving them in rather than editing them out, it just helps us lesser mortals feel less inadequate :)
With regards to making the odd error, you need to consider that apart from having to remember exactly what your doing and the dialogue to go with it, you are also concentrating on delivering in a smooth, seamless and fluid production that will be both informative and interesting at the same time in order to keep the viewers attention and you are doing so. That being said you must expect the odd calculation error or slip of the tongue now and again and do you think that highly experienced professional production companies don’t have several takes before they have something they’re willing to put out, that’s why there are often so many outtakes.
Andy did you get chance to look at the D4/D4R upgrade kit I was trying to describe and if so were we both talking about the same thing?
Thanks for taking the time to put together this outstanding video!!!! Really well done.
+BucStart
Hi, and thank you for the feedback.
Cheers
Andy
The nice chart at 8:05 is part of the external packaging label on the ACD24 Accessory Kit box. You are fortunate that the previous owner cut it out and included it. I did the same for mine.
Thanks Mike,
I didn’t realise that,
Cheers
Andy
Great video, Andy. I received my D4R Pro and the ACD24 Accessory Kit today. The ACD24 includes the VRS and the 11 router cutters. I haven't watched your other videos about this yet, but at 30:35, you aligned the VRS so the edge of the VRS rail was flush with the fingers. This is not correct, at least on my VRS. The top surface of the VRS rail is sloped, with the edge nearest the fingers lower than the peak near the middle of the rail. The instructions for the VRS, which you might not have received with your jig, show the slope and the correct way to set the height.
To set the height of the VRS, use a flat board that is long enough to rest on the fingers and overhangs the VRS. With the adjustment knobs and button screws on both sides loose, raise the VRS bracketon one side until the peak of the VRS rail touches the bottom of the board. Tighten only the knob and repeat for the other side. When you are satisfied both sides are correct, tighten the button screws. If you align the VRS rail so the edge is flush with the fingers, the router will be at a slight angle when cutting the dovetails.
Thanks Mike,
Yes I bought my jig second hand, it had a few bits missing so had to get in touch with Leigh for a few spares.
Thank you for the tips.
Cheers
Andy
Hi Andy
Many thanks for your reply and comments.
I can say we’re definitely both agreed that the VRS kit is an absolute no-brainier. I’ve read several articles on this and apparently the difference is night and day. With regards to the second upgrade kit I mentioned I’m slightly confused or perhaps unsure I fully understand your remarks.
The upgrade kit costs about £31.00 from Axminster and will bring the D4 & D4R up to the same specification of the newer D4R Pro. I’m not sure if you’ve had chance to watch the Leigh video on this particular upgrade?
If not I’ll try to briefly give the main details: It will give earlier jigs the same cutting capabilities of the D4R Pro. It will allow single pass dovetails and box joints in 5 different cutting depths in a single pass due to the nylon rod restricting how deep the cutter is allowed to travel into the stock.
The kit comes with upgrade instructions, a wire bound D4R Pro instruction book so the additional features the upgrade are fully covered, E7 elliptical guide bush, pin wrench for the guide bush, box joint spacers, sliding dovetail spacer. However to route single pass half blind dovetails it is apparently necessary for the fingers to have holes in one end in order to accommodate the nylon stop rod. However the D4 and D4R jigs do not have these holes hence the Leigh upgrade description goes on to describe 2 methods of achieving this, first and most cost effective is ti knock up a very simple jig to place the fingers in (dimensions included) and then preferably in a drill press simply drill the correct diameter hole then refit the fingers. Or for those who for whatever reason wouldn’t want to tackle that task, Leigh offer pre-drilled fingers but they’re quite costly.
Are we talking about the same upgrade kit here Andy?
Steve
+Steve Spiers
Hi Steve, sorry my comments where very rushed on that day - I have been travelling out of country on business, so trying to keep on top of the channel in strange locations between various meetings etc.
Yes we are talking about the same thing, I was picking up on drilling the holes in the fingers - and challenging if that was worth while - not the kit itself - this kit is definitely worth while for all the other functionality you get. In fact when I get into the safety station build (to demonstrate the Leigh jig in use) I will also be adapting the sliding dovetail jig to make cope and stick doors and rebates for the back panel. So in theory you could carry out all the joinery on a simple cupboard with only the Jig (with the upgrade kit).
The thing I was challenging is do you need single pass dovetails in your life. The value of the jig is in the ability make varib spaced hand cut (like) dovetails. You tend to use single pass dovetails in a batch situation where production time may be a commodity. As a hobby woodworker, or a small fine furniture workshop - the craft is more important so I think most folk engaged in this channel will want to go with the variable option. For those where production time = money in high volume shop my hypothesis is that they would not be using a dovetail jig in the first place but some other mechanism to batch out joints, maybe not even dovetails. I expect to get push back on that point - so would be interested in views.
So I was questioning if I would take the time to drill out the fingers OR if I would buy additional fingers OR would I not really use that functionality.
Hope this helps clarify, and thank you for the excellent input on the upgrade kit.
Cheers
Andy
What size notty pine did you use mostly. I love it really looks good.This video is great help also. Ty
Hi,
I can’t remember of hand, I would imagine it was 12 or 18mm.
Thank you for the comment.
Cheers
Andy
I don't understand about the adjustable bushing on the bottom of the router. I don't understand how it works or what it is for exactly. I have a Porter Cable router with a bushing but it is not adjustable at all. Please explain.
Hi Dave,
If you look at your bush in the PC, then you will see it is round. So no matter how you hold your router the router but will always be the same distance from the edge of the Bush.
The adjustable bush is not round, it is an elipse. So if you twist your router and run the elipse along your guide rail and turn your router, then the distance between the router bit and the edge of the Bush changes.
The Leigh design allows you to twist the Bush, thereby adjusting the distance between the cutting face of the router bit and the edge of the Bush.
Hope that helps
Andy
nice vid Andy just found your channel mate if this video is anything to be judged on looking forward to other content Andy is that a Manchester accent or do my ears deceive me from Manchester my self just asking
many thanks
Harry
Hi Harry,
Welcome on board - yes not to far from Manchester - about 10 miles heading towards Liverpool.
Cheers
Andy
"Blaa Blaa FESTOOL, Blaa bl;aa blaa FESTOOL, Blaa blaa FESTOOL , ... on and on! PS FESTOOL!
See the children have woken up.
abmbarry, the manual that comes with the Leigh D4R Dovetail Jig lists hundreds of router models from 23 manufacturers. The only requirement for the router is that it must be able to use a guide ring. If your router is not listed, perhaps you can ask your mommy to increase your allowance so you can buy a router that will work with the jig and stop whining.
I think its a "D4R" and not "DR4".
I think you could be correct.
Andy
thats not a dr4 pro, it is a d4r pro
Hi Robbi,
Thank you for the comment.
Cheers
Andy