Excellent work Roger. The ignorants that did my partition came to take measurements three times and still managed to get it all wrong. The only joints they new about were the ones they were smoking in the van
The wall is not straight and the door when closed seats 1.5cm away from the doorstop on the side of the hinges. I certainly don’t blame it on the materials used
I use metal frame drop ceilings between flats. Insulation, soundboard and fireboard. It separates the space which is key for soundproofing - wear gloves.
I move fluidly b/n wood and metal. Doing a bulkhead? Steel is great: fast, straight, u can use a crimper to adjust for level on the fly, no splitting. Basement? Steel avoids providing organic material for mould to attack. Too flimsy? Change the gauge, add stiffening channel, augment with spray foam, line with timber. 15m high commercial wall? Yes, there is a stud that long. Working after hours? Snips + crimper is totally quiet.
We fitted a metal stud wall around a new gas fire in the lounge. Excellent for conducting heat, but when we turned off the fire there was always a boom type sound when the wall contracted as it cooled. Wouldn't fit another.
You probably didn't allow for deflection. You can buy deflection top tracks - they have 2" slots the screws pass through, but not through the track metal, to allow for the expension - or you can use a standard top track and just not screw through the top track. e.g. screw drywall into the vertical studs, but not into teh top track. Most people don't realize but there is expansio and contraction of these walls, and allowing for the deflection eliminates the drywall cracking. This is also why you see expansion joints in concrete sidewalks
I'm having trouble understanding the fixing method. So you don't fix any c studs to any u channels, neither upper or lower? Only perimeter then? And then when you're drylining, you only fix the plasterboard to the studs and not to any u channel?
I just use wood and tight to floor and ceiling for support.....frame wall comolete in length and do door after....keeps wall straight....also add backing fir anything that might be screwed to wall....TV, bath accessories, etc We use metal studs in commercial but not residential Door always swings in to closest wall next to the jamb, switch for light on opposite side.... but in the end doesnt really matter....framing and drywall are forgiving trades....as long as it holds uo and looks good after taping its fine
It's horribly flimsy stuff and far less versatile than wood. A quick short term fix, and definitely not something I would want for myself. Which makes me think we probably shouldn't use in anyone else's home either, and instead reserve it for impermanent commercial-type cubicals etc.
@@Bertie_Ahern steel studs are actually more structural, don't rot, and are 1/3 of the weight as wood studs, and cost is a little more. But what do I know, i only do it for a living
Love this channel - always learning something new. Im not a builder,just a home handyman and i thought that 3,4,5 trick was brilliant! Will be using that one in future!
Great job Roger! Tons of useful tips and a perfect guide for someone that's still using timber exclusively because steel seems too confusing! One thing I'd add is to speed up steel framing you should look into getting some crimpers as they do speed up some jobs are are inexpensive. Self-tapping screws are also brilliant for steel framing!
That was extremely useful and explained a lot. I'm currently working on a Site and now I understand a lot more about why the dry liners have done it that way.
@@SkillBuilder The 400mm centres in the bathrooms were horrible to drill (the service holes are never where you need them) and finagle the pipe through, but now I understand why they did it that way.
It's great! My shed has been completed and it turned out nice looking and sturdy and it is way better than the sheds that many of my neighbors had put up. Of course, I'm pleased with the outcome and this Ryan's th-cam.com/users/postUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 Plans was extremely useful to me as a guide.
Funny that. After building a massive commercial space with this stuff, I thought the same. Then I did a job in a £400k flat and guess what - it was built with this crap, and mdf...
It actually has a LOT of benefits over wood. It's straighter, lighter and more fire-resistant. Also cheaper and easier to work with. A cordless drill & tin snips Vs a nailgun & circular/table saw. Buying wood studs these days is quite expensive (at least in canada) and each one is warped and twisted differently. Some even require cutting and shimming to straighten before drywall can be attached. It's all about preference I suppose, but as someone with limited practical experience, if I was building a wall at home, 25gauge steel studs are so much easier to work with. Carpenters will probably prefer wood.
It probably doesn't deflect a whole lot, but those metal studs have extremely low compressive strength. Only takes a little bit of deformation due to added weight from the ceiling for the plaster boards to start cracking. With wood studs, there's enough compressive strength for them to withstand a little bit of extra weight without deforming
I live in a new build house. All the upstairs partition walls are metal. This basically means I'm in a Faraday cage. I have to go downstairs to use my mobile phone.
Good to see you know to miss the fixings in the deep top track for a proper deflection - so many pros don’t! Not only that the timber lining on both door posts is essential and a great shout. They flex like hell with even a 30min fire door without the refinforcement.
Did he put a fixing in the bottom track and only missed the top deep track. Or do you not put fixings in either? Also, can you explain why he put the plasterboard on the top of the deep track. Thanks
Well done Mate ,again a great demo as I am interested to go this way Also some very thought provoking comments in this Vlog from others Like everything else it has its plusses and minuses Here in NZ it would have to stand up to Earthquake requirements Diagonals would be a must no doubt Once again Thanks Roger
Amazing. I have a holiday house in France and we use metal for all our walls....and ceilings too. I'm certainly no builder but I was able to level our 2 ceilings (about to be 3), build 2 service walls and frame a door all in metal. Easy, light, cost effective. What's not to like?
Roger, thanks for this! perfect timing for me. I will be using metal stud to frame the internals of a newly built basement. I have tanked the basement internals walls with KA Tanking Slurry. Reason for not going for a typical timber stud wall is due to not wanting to compromise the tanked wall. Using this metal stud method will allow me not to add fixings directly to the walls. I intend use 53mm tracks and 50mm sections which will be filled with wool type insulation (at 50mm) up against the the internal basement walls. I then intend to use 37.5mm insulated plasterboard on top (25mm insulation and 12.5mm plasterboard), What are your thoughts?
The studs are on the floor so the skirting is not a problem. The bit that has the give is the top channel on the ceiling. That is why it is not fixed to the studs. Have another look at it and you will see where the channel is free to move up and down on the studs which don't move.
Was that a specific screw gun for the job , or a fitting added to the head . Metal stud is brilliant when done properly most people who dismiss it don’t put in the insulation
I am planning to install a double stud construction against a common wall with a noisy neighbor. In order to achieve a decent STC rating, I read about a double glued plasterboard behind the back stud, another double glued board in front of the front stud and both studs filled up with damping material and a small air spacing between both damping sheets (a completely symmetric setup). I know that this would be ideal for room separation walls where the access on both sides is unhindered; but is there a trick to achieve the same, but just applied on top of an existing wall ?
I have had to do this. We built the stud construction in panels and fixed the double layer of plasterboard on the back before fixing in place. It was fixed into place with an air gap from the existing party wall with neoprene rubber all round any place the stud touched any structural component of the house. It was sealed with silicone from our side before the stud walls were filled with sound proofing rockwool. We then fixed a double layer of overlapping plasterboard from our side with extra silicone then rendered with plastic multifinish and made good. Made a huge difference.
@@PJvaleting No you couldn’t do it with the C-stud he’s using. I’d do it with I-stud and line it with ply or similar. You could use Metsec, but a bit excessive.
Hate when I’m working on a job and come across this is awful stuff. Need to add timber to strengthen so why not just do it all with c24 4x2 much stronger and better job
It is easy enough to break floor tiles up on either side of the wall but the floor is the floor. You have to draw a line under the job and move on instead of worrying about everything that might happen but probably won't.
If you are doing metal stud you have to join on a stud. I explained the way you space the studs. If you go horizontally you need a mid height nogging which is difficult with metal stud,
Does anyone know of a free or cheap design software that a homeowner could use to design out a 20x10 metal framed shed that is going to be built in a wildfire-prone area?
How does the deflection work with the stud that holds the door? That looks like it's been screwed in solid to the top rail? (PS love the vid!!! no more wood for me!)
Believe me as a chippy with 30yrs experience & built timber frames & built timber studs , Metal is probably twice as fast to erect if not quicker, Easier to work with doesn't shrink & twist , done properly it's far better than modern CLS timber, Yes I'd definitely have it in my own house
My son's house has metal stud walls upstairs. Terrible: noisy, hellish to run cables/pipes through, and no cheaper than 3"x2". My old firm tried using it. The joiners hated it and the customers hated it.
Why do you think it's hard to run services through all studs have holes in them for that purpose. Not all studs are equal cheaper studs are made of thinner metal, even british gypsum studs come in different grades. I've been drylining since I left school never heard anybody claim it is noiser the timber studs. The plus point is it is much quicker the studs don't warp and twist like timber.
@@michaeloates5804 And I've been a joiner since I left school - and I could have had that partition made up (on the floor), stood up, plumbed up and fixed in less than half the time, without even setting up the mitre saw. There were no holes in the noggins in my son's house, when the plumber was trying to run new plastic pipes to his bath. It was a nightmare.
@@michaeloates5804 It is certainly easier to construct a decoupled low sound transmission wall from. Had to use it on an old mill conversion that was for hostel use and the architect had specced it. We weren't that entusistic about it to begin with but very soon after starting to use it we were very impressed with the system.
@@johnriggs4929 That is why it was a nightmare for you...because the type of stud was all wrong for the application. With the right spec of studs running services is very easy. Just to say I have nothing against timber stud at all.
Quite frankly, I don't see the point. Why reinvent the wheel? What is the advantage? I would imagine the sound transmission through a mwtal stud wall would be increased as there is no mass to deaden it. I just see absolutely no benefit.
It’s really easy material to work with. But I wouldn’t have it in my house or advise my customers to use it. The gypliner tracks yes. But metal stud is in my opinion a far inferior product to timber stud.
@@Wgnwtb Their upper management for now two years I have been requesting they supply a sample or point me in direction of Superfil 40. The contractor that installed my insulation contaminated the Knauf product mixing it water repellent. Long story one Knauf management are familiar. I require a clean sample of Superfil 40 a teaspoon to send to a materials testing laboratory. The knauf rep in Scotland is no help, and his managers of conversed several all just sit on their hands. Got to a stage be protesting outside their offices although majority them all work from home. Big problem is Knauf sold a product into a structural damp building and the product wasn’t suitable a report to international standards had already given reason cavity wall insulation shouldn’t been installed. Not entirely Knauf’s responsibility however, they been acting typical most big corporate companies when a problem does arrive try and ignore and go away. I ain’t going away Steve Morris, and the rest of them at Knauf. Give me the sample the evidence I require progress this legal dispute. Boycott Knauf.
Keep boycotting Knauf. Do not give a company money that doesn’t take responsibility for resolution of significant problems. Give me that Superfil 40 sample I will name every manager I have spoken to in the past two years.
All that deflection head baloney is just an excuse for a system that can barely support it's own weight. Timber studs would actually support and stiffen the floor above.
He said if you need a deflection head, you don't always need one. Just about every commercial building is built with a deflection head, not so much residential.
You need deflection heads to roof ceilings due to snow and you never fix to the top track when doing so 🤣, the rest is just BS. Yes I've had papers published in the White Book.
This stuff is OK in other people's property but I won't have it in my home. I just don't like it. Perhaps I'm old fashioned. Your getting better at this building lark. Carry on like that and I can see you having a decent career 🤣🤣
Good for builders who have one set of priorities- not good for home owners who have another set of priorities. Timber studs will actually support the ceiling, unlike this.... product.
Rule number one of joining between two slabs is to never have a rigid connection on both slabs, as it will break the load bearing material/stud, when one moves and the other doesn't, or if they move in different directions simultaneously. Also, if that material is metal, you need to allow for thermal expansion (on exterior uses). Both rarely happen in housing projects, but it is a proper way to do it. Also, this product is German and is up to EU Code, it's used across the Europe without any issues, for many decades. Those twigs usually seen in US acting as studs, would never support a ceiling in Europe, as here it is usually (about 90% of the time) done as slabs of reinforced concrete. I do agree, however, than a typical American house needs all the help it can get, and that's why thier choice is timber studs, to also support the ceiling.
Timber studs unless designed as load bearing are not supposed to support a ceiling, a floor needs to be designed to support itself , Clueless diy'ers please stop typing rubbish comments
@@pauldavies7251 Hahaha - it's Mr Personality! Better known as YT's King Canute vainly holding back the tide - as he sees it - of YT "rubbish comments".
Seems so crappy, imagine building a timber partition wall and not fixing the studs to top & bottom plate! 😂 Load of nonsense and in my opinion not any sort of time saver either, along with the fact that you have to piss about with reinforcing the door opening with timber anyway 😂 says it all really! Not my cup of tea.
@@JackdiyGarden It’s great in my house, double skinned 12.5mm wallboard both sides gives excellent soundproofing and a 1 hr fire rating. Builders that have looked at mine don’t even know it’s metal.
Same here any movement or deflection can makes it squeak like mad, countless times I've done floor repairs and stair repairs builder claims chippys not fitted properly but its the slightest of movement on the stairs or joist noggin ect that metal makes hell of a squeal sometimes.
Excellent work Roger.
The ignorants that did my partition came to take measurements three times and still managed to get it all wrong. The only joints they new about were the ones they were smoking in the van
🤣🤪
What did they do wrong? I am still learning and it would be great to know what to be careful of.
Thanks
Tell us what went wrong
The wall is not straight and the door when closed seats 1.5cm away from the doorstop on the side of the hinges. I certainly don’t blame it on the materials used
I use metal frame drop ceilings between flats. Insulation, soundboard and fireboard. It separates the space which is key for soundproofing - wear gloves.
8:57 u can buy drill bits with a plastic collar that stops that happening, if u only got a regular drill, makes the bit bounce off just in time
True that
The offcuts of this steel stud don’t burn as well as timber offcuts on my log burner.
I move fluidly b/n wood and metal. Doing a bulkhead? Steel is great: fast, straight, u can use a crimper to adjust for level on the fly, no splitting. Basement? Steel avoids providing organic material for mould to attack. Too flimsy? Change the gauge, add stiffening channel, augment with spray foam, line with timber. 15m high commercial wall? Yes, there is a stud that long. Working after hours? Snips + crimper is totally quiet.
We fitted a metal stud wall around a new gas fire in the lounge. Excellent for conducting heat, but when we turned off the fire there was always a boom type sound when the wall contracted as it cooled. Wouldn't fit another.
You probably didn't allow for deflection. You can buy deflection top tracks - they have 2" slots the screws pass through, but not through the track metal, to allow for the expension - or you can use a standard top track and just not screw through the top track. e.g. screw drywall into the vertical studs, but not into teh top track. Most people don't realize but there is expansio and contraction of these walls, and allowing for the deflection eliminates the drywall cracking. This is also why you see expansion joints in concrete sidewalks
Greetings from America. I'm a 25 year builder and I must say your video was great. Well done mate
Can’t see how this would be better, quicker, cheaper or more environmentally friendly than wood !
Hello i like your demo. Its clear to understand for none fro. Like me. But; I dont have cilling! What should I do? Thank you
I'm having trouble understanding the fixing method.
So you don't fix any c studs to any u channels, neither upper or lower? Only perimeter then?
And then when you're drylining, you only fix the plasterboard to the studs and not to any u channel?
Yep, except the door frames. But this guy has no clue.
I just use wood and tight to floor and ceiling for support.....frame wall comolete in length and do door after....keeps wall straight....also add backing fir anything that might be screwed to wall....TV, bath accessories, etc
We use metal studs in commercial but not residential
Door always swings in to closest wall next to the jamb, switch for light on opposite side....
but in the end doesnt really matter....framing and drywall are forgiving trades....as long as it holds uo and looks good after taping its fine
To me this is much slower and far more flimsy than normal wooden stud work 🤷♂️ I’m not sure if the metal Stud option would be any cheaper or not ??
This stuff flies up when you have the proper tools and know what your doing.
As others have said, you wouldn't want it in your own house though.
It's horribly flimsy stuff and far less versatile than wood. A quick short term fix, and definitely not something I would want for myself. Which makes me think we probably shouldn't use in anyone else's home either, and instead reserve it for impermanent commercial-type cubicals etc.
@@Bertie_Ahernwhat you reccomand then?
You never carried framing lumber up three flights of stairs in August. Everything has its place ,many different thickness of metal framing ( gage).
@@Bertie_Ahern steel studs are actually more structural, don't rot, and are 1/3 of the weight as wood studs, and cost is a little more. But what do I know, i only do it for a living
Love this channel - always learning something new. Im not a builder,just a home handyman and i thought that 3,4,5 trick was brilliant! Will be using that one in future!
Thanks 👍
@@SkillBuilder
It's a really good one.
I can't believe I never saw it before.
It’s Pythagoras that you would have been taught at school
@@lukepeacham9663
I must have been off that day.
@@42RHD 🙂
10:25 . All the sites I have worked on this part never gets done and that’s why it squeaks. Building inspectors and site managers need to be better.
Great job Roger! Tons of useful tips and a perfect guide for someone that's still using timber exclusively because steel seems too confusing! One thing I'd add is to speed up steel framing you should look into getting some crimpers as they do speed up some jobs are are inexpensive. Self-tapping screws are also brilliant for steel framing!
That was extremely useful and explained a lot.
I'm currently working on a Site and now I understand a lot more about why the dry liners have done it that way.
Great to hear!
@@SkillBuilder
The 400mm centres in the bathrooms were horrible to drill (the service holes are never where you need them) and finagle the pipe through, but now I understand why they did it that way.
I work with metal stud work, we screw the door opening studs to 2x4 timber. This makes it alot sturdier for when doors get slammed etc.
It's great! My shed has been completed and it turned out nice looking and sturdy and it is way better than the sheds that many of my neighbors had put up. Of course, I'm pleased with the outcome and this Ryan's th-cam.com/users/postUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 Plans was extremely useful to me as a guide.
It's good cheap and quick if you know what your doing I like to use the crimping tool to join them.
I could not find one in any tool store. I wanted to show it.
@Skill Builder having trouble posting a link for some reason but screwfix sell them for 30 quid but I can give u the item no (6724V)
No one uses crimping tools in the uk anymore, tec-screws if you really feel that desperate to fix the stud.
@@mdipltd7404 do u just use the screw for the plasterboard to fix the stud?
@@Droningonuk In general, unless it has a special use (doors, windows, corners) or is metsec.
I love fitting tin wall, fast, light and easy. I wouldn't have the crap in my house though.
Funny that. After building a massive commercial space with this stuff, I thought the same. Then I did a job in a £400k flat and guess what - it was built with this crap, and mdf...
Aye but aleast its not warped like wood, all the merchants these days are selling warped shit. What would be an alternative to this and wood?
You double skin both sides in the house.
It actually has a LOT of benefits over wood. It's straighter, lighter and more fire-resistant. Also cheaper and easier to work with. A cordless drill & tin snips Vs a nailgun & circular/table saw. Buying wood studs these days is quite expensive (at least in canada) and each one is warped and twisted differently. Some even require cutting and shimming to straighten before drywall can be attached.
It's all about preference I suppose, but as someone with limited practical experience, if I was building a wall at home, 25gauge steel studs are so much easier to work with. Carpenters will probably prefer wood.
Clean craftsmanship
Hi.. I don't get exactly why you put the plasterboard on the top track? Doesn't the metal track block fire?
3,4,5 rule…excellent Roger
Why is the building deflecting so much? I've never seen this on timber stud walls.
It probably doesn't deflect a whole lot, but those metal studs have extremely low compressive strength. Only takes a little bit of deformation due to added weight from the ceiling for the plaster boards to start cracking. With wood studs, there's enough compressive strength for them to withstand a little bit of extra weight without deforming
Is this to save on timber or just a cheaper option, seems to be time consuming
It's not time consuming it's really fast, Roger was doing a talk through demonstration as well as fixing the metal
Seems like a kind of lame structure though.
@ULMarc every school, hospital,office block, etc in fact just about every commercial building built in the recent times is built like this
@@michaeloates5804 I feel sorry for them.
Thank you brother. Great explanation
I would use acoustic tape and crampers. Overall, it's nice to see changes in UK building industry.
Excelent video, cheers Roger!
what is the thickness of the metal stud? 0.3mm or 0.5mm is fine?
Metal stud walls might be easier to fit but they're a nightmare to work on afterwards
Total disagree
Very good demo 👍👍
I live in a new build house. All the upstairs partition walls are metal. This basically means I'm in a Faraday cage. I have to go downstairs to use my mobile phone.
Good to see you know to miss the fixings in the deep top track for a proper deflection - so many pros don’t! Not only that the timber lining on both door posts is essential and a great shout. They flex like hell with even a 30min fire door without the refinforcement.
Why don’t we use the deflextion thing when fitting timber stud walls? Why only metal?
@@teewithey5879 Timber studs are strong enough to actually hold the ceilings up.
Did he put a fixing in the bottom track and only missed the top deep track. Or do you not put fixings in either?
Also, can you explain why he put the plasterboard on the top of the deep track. Thanks
Well done Mate ,again a great demo as I am interested to go this way Also some very thought provoking comments in this Vlog from others Like everything else it has its plusses and minuses Here in NZ it would have to stand up to Earthquake requirements Diagonals would be a must no doubt Once again Thanks Roger
Timber for me , but thanks Roger 👍🏻
What was that foam adhevise that he sprayed under the floor stud? Anyone know?
Why don’t we worry about the deflection thing when fitting timber stud walls? Why only metal?
The timber supports the ceiling.
Amazing. I have a holiday house in France and we use metal for all our walls....and ceilings too. I'm certainly no builder but I was able to level our 2 ceilings (about to be 3), build 2 service walls and frame a door all in metal. Easy, light, cost effective. What's not to like?
I take it your insulation is all external as standard? Metal acts as one hell of a cold bridge.
4 ft thick cob walls. So yes. But I will say that it’s the primary method of building walls in France.
Thank you 👍🔥
Roger, thanks for this! perfect timing for me. I will be using metal stud to frame the internals of a newly built basement. I have tanked the basement internals walls with KA Tanking Slurry. Reason for not going for a typical timber stud wall is due to not wanting to compromise the tanked wall. Using this metal stud method will allow me not to add fixings directly to the walls. I intend use 53mm tracks and 50mm sections which will be filled with wool type insulation (at 50mm) up against the the internal basement walls. I then intend to use 37.5mm insulated plasterboard on top (25mm insulation and 12.5mm plasterboard), What are your thoughts?
why you didn't use Lumber?
Give me timber every time!
Why?
Totally agree, no way are these flimsy metal studs as strong as good old 4x2
Metal is so much easier and way less messy.
@@Garyck88you do know there are different gauges of metal studs depending on whether they bare load or not right?
Timber is great if you don’t live in a termite infested area
As usual a great video: What sort of Mastik do you use for the joints and can you plaster over it?
great video roger !
I get the deflection gap, but what happens when you fit the skirting board to the frame and then you’ve lost your give ?
The studs are on the floor so the skirting is not a problem. The bit that has the give is the top channel on the ceiling. That is why it is not fixed to the studs. Have another look at it and you will see where the channel is free to move up and down on the studs which don't move.
@@SkillBuilderwhat about the side channel, that was screwed to the wall. That will not allow any give.
@@redx11xdeflection happens to the middle of the floor/ceiling So the outside studs don't deflect
What is the expansion of the metal studs in length?
African or European?
@@howardosborne8647 what either metric or imperial
That metal stud walling is awesome! Nice one as usual Rodger !! 🙏
good information to know thank you
Nice video here in Canada that bottom track would be shot down with Ramsey or hilti.neet way you do the door oppenning, bending the track
It would shatter and blow out the tile....on concrete no problem
Was that a specific screw gun for the job , or a fitting added to the head .
Metal stud is brilliant when done properly most people who dismiss it don’t put in the insulation
A drywall screw gun, mate 😊
400 centres. I don't care what Knauf say. That is 16inch for Roger so understand's.😀😀
You mention allowing for deflection but surely a wooden built partition has none built in?
It should have minimal 10mm deflection in head even in timber.
Especially timber frame house unless it's designed as a load bearing wall
Excellent 👌🏼, thanks !! Tx🤙🏼
I am planning to install a double stud construction against a common wall with a noisy neighbor. In order to achieve a decent STC rating, I read about a double glued plasterboard behind the back stud, another double glued board in front of the front stud and both studs filled up with damping material and a small air spacing between both damping sheets (a completely symmetric setup). I know that this would be ideal for room separation walls where the access on both sides is unhindered; but is there a trick to achieve the same, but just applied on top of an existing wall ?
I have had to do this. We built the stud construction in panels and fixed the double layer of plasterboard on the back before fixing in place. It was fixed into place with an air gap from the existing party wall with neoprene rubber all round any place the stud touched any structural component of the house. It was sealed with silicone from our side before the stud walls were filled with sound proofing rockwool.
We then fixed a double layer of overlapping plasterboard from our side with extra silicone then rendered with plastic multifinish and made good. Made a huge difference.
I'm no builder but I would consider myself a decent DIYer and this system doesn't look any easier or quicker than building a stud wall?
It's definitely not 👍🏼
@@dalemoore11 so what's the point of it unless you're looking for a weak and lightweight stud wall?
Why is used commercially then in large projects?
@@MrThebigredone it's faster, straighter and has a better fire rating than timber walls. Also almost no waste from the framing, unlike timber cuts.
@@w.o.o.d.y Exactly
Roger said use wood to help level the floor at start of video and use wood to make it more secure at the end of video so it can’t be that good lol !
Can you show me how to put profile above door bifold 5 meters wide. Thanks in advance for your help. Greetings from Serbia
🤣
Nothing beats a brick wall if it the construction is capable for it.
Surprised that more people don’t prefer this.
What is the cost to build with these materials,? Would it be cheaper than wood?
Im using these in my cargo trailer to build bathroom walls that are extremely lightweight
👍👍👍 Helpful thanks.
Could you build a shed frame out of this ?
Yes you could but there is no real advantage that I can think of. It might blow away if you don't anchor it.
@@PJvaleting No you couldn’t do it with the C-stud he’s using. I’d do it with I-stud and line it with ply or similar. You could use Metsec, but a bit excessive.
thanks for 30-40-50 thats new to me
Hate when I’m working on a job and come across this is awful stuff. Need to add timber to strengthen so why not just do it all with c24 4x2 much stronger and better job
Except the timber warps like a bitch so your walls never end up flat or square. Awful stuff.
if you wanna be picky 150mm L shape overhang at the door space is minimum
How much is mine?
@@SkillBuilder 10:46 hmm, one roger finger length :))
Is it's cheaper than timber, I am sold
What you going to do when it’s time to change the floor tiles?
It is easy enough to break floor tiles up on either side of the wall but the floor is the floor. You have to draw a line under the job and move on instead of worrying about everything that might happen but probably won't.
Its safe to mount a TV
No, timber pattresses.
Would you use these to fit a floating toilet to ? Or just wood ?
Timber for a wall hung frame
Interesting that you hung the drywall vertically. I always see people doing it horizontally. Reasons?
If you are doing metal stud you have to join on a stud. I explained the way you space the studs. If you go horizontally you need a mid height nogging which is difficult with metal stud,
@@thehazelnutspread Horizontal is called railroading , not legal if checked by BG in the UK.
Brilliant
Does anyone know of a free or cheap design software that a homeowner could use to design out a 20x10 metal framed shed that is going to be built in a wildfire-prone area?
@@bobbif100 Use I-stud or metsec.
How does the deflection work with the stud that holds the door? That looks like it's been screwed in solid to the top rail? (PS love the vid!!! no more wood for me!)
You are right and I was waiting for someone to notice that. It would be a slotted hole if reqired or the door liner could hold it in position.
@@SkillBuilderhow would you make a slotted hole
Never used the product so I can’t comment about it being better or worse than timber… but not seeing evidence that it is quicker than timber??
Believe me as a chippy with 30yrs experience & built timber frames & built timber studs ,
Metal is probably twice as fast to erect if not quicker,
Easier to work with doesn't shrink & twist , done properly it's far better than modern CLS timber,
Yes I'd definitely have it in my own house
My son's house has metal stud walls upstairs. Terrible: noisy, hellish to run cables/pipes through, and no cheaper than 3"x2". My old firm tried using it. The joiners hated it and the customers hated it.
Why do you think it's hard to run services through all studs have holes in them for that purpose.
Not all studs are equal cheaper studs are made of thinner metal, even british gypsum studs come in different grades.
I've been drylining since I left school never heard anybody claim it is noiser the timber studs. The plus point is it is much quicker the studs don't warp and twist like timber.
@@michaeloates5804 how is it quicker? It looked more time consuming watching bill do it. Wood just needs a circular saw!
@@michaeloates5804 And I've been a joiner since I left school - and I could have had that partition made up (on the floor), stood up, plumbed up and fixed in less than half the time, without even setting up the mitre saw. There were no holes in the noggins in my son's house, when the plumber was trying to run new plastic pipes to his bath. It was a nightmare.
@@michaeloates5804 It is certainly easier to construct a decoupled low sound transmission wall from. Had to use it on an old mill conversion that was for hostel use and the architect had specced it. We weren't that entusistic about it to begin with but very soon after starting to use it we were very impressed with the system.
@@johnriggs4929 That is why it was a nightmare for you...because the type of stud was all wrong for the application. With the right spec of studs running services is very easy. Just to say I have nothing against timber stud at all.
Still had to use timber lol
Quite frankly, I don't see the point. Why reinvent the wheel? What is the advantage? I would imagine the sound transmission through a mwtal stud wall would be increased as there is no mass to deaden it. I just see absolutely no benefit.
Weight and speed, which means significant savings at commercial building scale.
Don't forget environmental friendly, no trees cuts and steel is recyclable, overall should be far more cheaper.
@@RenoTBG Trees are far cheaper to recycle than steel?
@@woutertron you can recycle steel almost indefinitely. How many times can recycle wood?
@@RenoTBG infinitely if you pulp it and turn it into compost
Do you have to screw to the ground if you fix either side
A customer… change their mind? Unbelievable! 😳
Like the channel. But I don't like that metal products. Lot of flex in the wall. 4x2 every time
It’s really easy material to work with. But I wouldn’t have it in my house or advise my customers to use it. The gypliner tracks yes. But metal stud is in my opinion a far inferior product to timber stud.
hate metal studs give me 2 X 4 any day 😤
that was is a standard stud wall in Europe from last 20 years in England is innovation xdxdxdxdxdx
U.K. construction methods are slow to adapt new technology
cheers kiddo
I wouldn’t give Knauf the time of day let alone money.
Why?
@@Wgnwtb Their upper management for now two years I have been requesting they supply a sample or point me in direction of Superfil 40. The contractor that installed my insulation contaminated the Knauf product mixing it water repellent. Long story one Knauf management are familiar. I require a clean sample of Superfil 40 a teaspoon to send to a materials testing laboratory. The knauf rep in Scotland is no help, and his managers of conversed several all just sit on their hands. Got to a stage be protesting outside their offices although majority them all work from home. Big problem is Knauf sold a product into a structural damp building and the product wasn’t suitable a report to international standards had already given reason cavity wall insulation shouldn’t been installed. Not entirely Knauf’s responsibility however, they been acting typical most big corporate companies when a problem does arrive try and ignore and go away. I ain’t going away Steve Morris, and the rest of them at Knauf. Give me the sample the evidence I require progress this legal dispute. Boycott Knauf.
Keep boycotting Knauf. Do not give a company money that doesn’t take responsibility for resolution of significant problems. Give me that Superfil 40 sample I will name every manager I have spoken to in the past two years.
How can the ceiling move if the whole wall is screwed together?
All that deflection head baloney is just an excuse for a system that can barely support it's own weight. Timber studs would actually support and stiffen the floor above.
He said if you need a deflection head, you don't always need one.
Just about every commercial building is built with a deflection head, not so much residential.
@@michaeloates5804 Yes, if the commercial building had a steel frame and roof, it would need a deflection head at the top of thecwall.
You need deflection heads to roof ceilings due to snow and you never fix to the top track when doing so 🤣, the rest is just BS. Yes I've had papers published in the White Book.
@@robertsmart7484 This is about right, but the deflection heads can vary.
might perform well in an earthquake?
I think I would rather use wood.
As a metaller myself I'd give you 7/10.
This stuff is OK in other people's property but I won't have it in my home. I just don't like it. Perhaps I'm old fashioned. Your getting better at this building lark. Carry on like that and I can see you having a decent career 🤣🤣
Sorry, no way you have convinced me that that is easier than timber.
Good for builders who have one set of priorities- not good for home owners who have another set of priorities. Timber studs will actually support the ceiling, unlike this.... product.
Rule number one of joining between two slabs is to never have a rigid connection on both slabs, as it will break the load bearing material/stud, when one moves and the other doesn't, or if they move in different directions simultaneously. Also, if that material is metal, you need to allow for thermal expansion (on exterior uses). Both rarely happen in housing projects, but it is a proper way to do it.
Also, this product is German and is up to EU Code, it's used across the Europe without any issues, for many decades.
Those twigs usually seen in US acting as studs, would never support a ceiling in Europe, as here it is usually (about 90% of the time) done as slabs of reinforced concrete.
I do agree, however, than a typical American house needs all the help it can get, and that's why thier choice is timber studs, to also support the ceiling.
Timber studs unless designed as load bearing are not supposed to support a ceiling, a floor needs to be designed to support itself ,
Clueless diy'ers please stop typing rubbish comments
@@pauldavies7251 Hahaha - it's Mr Personality! Better known as YT's King Canute vainly holding back the tide - as he sees it - of YT "rubbish comments".
Not really walls, more like fixed room dividers.
Is that not the definition of a wall
Or even a curtain
Looks flimsy.
Seems so crappy, imagine building a timber partition wall and not fixing the studs to top & bottom plate! 😂 Load of nonsense and in my opinion not any sort of time saver either, along with the fact that you have to piss about with reinforcing the door opening with timber anyway 😂 says it all really!
Not my cup of tea.
That's cos you either don't understand it, or have never seen it in use.
@@JackdiyGarden It’s great in my house, double skinned 12.5mm wallboard both sides gives excellent soundproofing and a 1 hr fire rating. Builders that have looked at mine don’t even know it’s metal.
My pet hate is metal stud walling ,sorry Roger it’s awful stuff.should be banned
I also agree!
Why tho
Same here any movement or deflection can makes it squeak like mad, countless times I've done floor repairs and stair repairs builder claims chippys not fitted properly but its the slightest of movement on the stairs or joist noggin ect that metal makes hell of a squeal sometimes.
@@dalemoore11 its ok they compensate for that,an use 15mm plasterboard 🙄😂😂
You guys obviously don't know how and where to use it 🙄.... and perfectly straight 👌 what more do you want!!!! ?
I'd rather you timber
Trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist. Timber is better in all ways
Timber is a great material but it is prone to twisting and warping. I have had to straighten some timber stud walls before fitting bathrooms.
No it isn't, you sound like a clueless dinosaur with opinions like that!
Have you used it or seen it used on site?
❤🇲🇦