A man after my own heart. Awesome job here - to be totally self-sufficient when it comes to heat and not have to pay a utility a penny for keeping the family warm. You are to be commended for the system you have built. The fact that you have alternative fuels makes it even better as you're not relying on just one source. Hats off to you! The oil injector sounds like a little pulse jet - like a V1 buzz bomb...
Yes thank you, it has saved me a lot of money so far, and yes the pulse of the linear compressor gives the injector a pulse like an automotive injector on a duty cycle.
I wouldn't blame you if you didn't care, but you can probably add some efficiency and clean up the burn by adding a little "forced air" to the back side of the syphon nozzle. Not a lot, probably a 20-30 watt fan would be lots. Those pumps are also WAY quieter if you suspend them from a bungie. I have heated my house some this winter with oil, and I'm currently tinkering with it while working on a more permanent system. I heard you say a litre per hour... I think at my best I was burning about 1.3 - 1.5 but my system is pretty basic. Clean, but not terribly efficient.
Is that 3/4” going into the plate heat exchanger? If it is I’m shocked that it’s heating your home because it’s only good for 48,000 btu’s/h at 6.5gpm max. Just asking
Yes the whole system is 3/4" I have 100ft of 3/4 Pex under ground to get to that plate exchanger and it heats everything with my pump on low speed, no problem.
@@machinehead6892 Curious how you went about insulating those lines underground. I used a Logstor product when I added the garage as a zone and it works well, but...$$$.
I use 3/4" foam tubes with 1 1/2" over them , then five wraps of the foil backed bubble insulation then wrapped with 8 mill poly, It was very cheap and works excellent, In 100ft I lose about 2-3 deg F. the lines are buried 32 inches in the ground.
Very nice set up, i burn wmo, and wood, but seperare, i use a fuel oil furnace converted, i was wanting to do the same set up you have, and after seeing your setup, i now know what im going to do and how to do it. Is your water copper lines that inside seperated by a steel plate or are they just sitting inside exposed to the flames? What are the square tubing bolted on front for and what is the round tubing welded on each side for? I appreciate you sharing, it will help me better understand how i will do it. I love the heat that get from oil, it packs a bunch btu's and easy to move around vs wood. We are completely offgrid, solar and wind, and i love it, sure its a bit work, but having the self sustainable and never worry about power going out. I bought 6 vacuum tube thermal water solar panels, that i will be installing and putting in a big water tank, im hoping that it will help take care of heating and having alot more hot water, from everything ive seen, they should make 150f-200f hot water even in freezing weather, i guess we will see when i put it in this summer.
The lines are all copper and 56 elbows all soldered together in 3 layers to make 27 passes and yes exposed to as much of the flames as possible at all times, I have to scrape them once a week and front panel access makes it easy.
Huge thumbs up.. Big question, with the copper loops you have in the stove, how do you keep the solder joints from melting, is it because you keep constant water circulation.?
Have you ever tried to un solder pipe when there is even the slightest amount of water in it, it is near impossible, so as long as the water flows through the pipes the solder joints are safe, I tested it to 150C of steam with no problems.
I have about the same set up about but i put a bypass that blocks off the boiler return and installed a tee but still leave the supply open for the pressure relief valve. I think for me it works better not trying to heat up the whole boiler and just send the hot water right to the house? Thoughts
I am set up in a similar way, the returning water goes straight back to the boiler and the excess will go to the storage tank, it heats up really fast this way, I can get to full temp in about 30 minutes.
No, if you get the air fuel mixture set right, you get zero smoke and zero smell, ive been heating this way for years, and you can stand next to the smoke stack, and smell nothing, you see nothing but heat waves.
Only when it is first fired up (cold) once hot, the oil is completely incinerated and no smell or smoke, the stove is white inside because even the creosote from wood burning is all burnt away.
WTF dude .I'm at a loss for words without getting flagged, I'm all for saving a buck, I burn wood myself. but WTF. I'm a blue seal licensed operator, since the 80s started as a HVAC guy. WOW is all. Just WOW,
Thanks, I have been experimenting with different systems for years and I like to build crazy stuff, this stove has been a marvel and is saving me lots of money in the process, it is a fraction of the price of modern wood boilers now costing around 16k for the most basic unit.
hi great system it is almost the same like mine here in ns. im interestet in your diy oil burner buildt with meshurements with pictures please i piced up an cast iron oil boiler that i will plum parallel to my wood boiler. thx
What is it you would like to know about the oil injector? it is a waste oil furnace injector powered with a linear compressor and it is mounted in a 3" square intake.
Something you may want to consider if you don’t already have them, but they make fire O-Matic valves you put in the oil line temperature in the area of the valve gets above 165. It kills the oil. Also they make the same temperature really related safety device that wires into your system generally, the box directly above the boiler and when that reaches 165 or 185 you can buy different plugs for it but it kills the power to it if it gets too hot and everybody else is watching this remember you have insurance on your home these systems have nothing to do with oil or electric code or or HVAC codes. All of this is outside of the world of that system so if you do have a fire in your house Company is gonna say nope no way and you’re not getting a nickel they will wash their hands your property😳😳
I'm not using this system any more, I have built a negative pressure downdraft gasification boiler that can also accommodate the oil burner, I will post the new build as soon as I get the video finished, thanks for watching.
Why is there any of your water outside of the warmed basement? I don’t get that. I can’t that tank sit down seller right next to the other tanks so that your plumbing has kept as short as possible and you’re in a warm space? Other than that fabulous job I am jealous as hell and now I need to go find a used woodstove so I can convert it into the multi stove that you have great job ! Be careful hauling the waste motor oil in the United States. You need to have placards a special driving license insurance all of those things to transport more than 20 gallons. Just be careful❤️❤️🇺🇸
The stove is not in my basement, it is in my shop at the other end of my yard 120' feet away, and the storage tank is in another building behind my shop.
A man after my own heart. Awesome job here - to be totally self-sufficient when it comes to heat and not have to pay a utility a penny for keeping the family warm. You are to be commended for the system you have built. The fact that you have alternative fuels makes it even better as you're not relying on just one source. Hats off to you! The oil injector sounds like a little pulse jet - like a V1 buzz bomb...
Yes thank you, it has saved me a lot of money so far, and yes the pulse of the linear compressor gives the injector a pulse like an automotive injector on a duty cycle.
I wouldn't blame you if you didn't care, but you can probably add some efficiency and clean up the burn by adding a little "forced air" to the back side of the syphon nozzle. Not a lot, probably a 20-30 watt fan would be lots.
Those pumps are also WAY quieter if you suspend them from a bungie.
I have heated my house some this winter with oil, and I'm currently tinkering with it while working on a more permanent system. I heard you say a litre per hour... I think at my best I was burning about 1.3 - 1.5 but my system is pretty basic. Clean, but not terribly efficient.
Any chance you could share more details on the little air compressor?
It is a linear compressor, it produces 15psi @ 3cfm, got it on Amazon $100, Canukistani Pesos.
Thanks
@machinehead6892 The fact that you used the term Canuckastani makes me respect you even more!
@@machinehead6892post a link
please help I can not find that compressor on amazon
This is the best waste oil boiler video I have seen.
Thank you, it has been a work in progress, I keep coming up with ways to make it better and more efficient.
Is that 3/4” going into the plate heat exchanger? If it is I’m shocked that it’s heating your home because it’s only good for 48,000 btu’s/h at 6.5gpm max. Just asking
Yes the whole system is 3/4" I have 100ft of 3/4 Pex under ground to get to that plate exchanger and it heats everything with my pump on low speed, no problem.
@@machinehead6892 Curious how you went about insulating those lines underground. I used a Logstor product when I added the garage as a zone and it works well, but...$$$.
I use 3/4" foam tubes with 1 1/2" over them , then five wraps of the foil backed bubble insulation then wrapped with 8 mill poly, It was very cheap and works excellent, In 100ft I lose about 2-3 deg F. the lines are buried 32 inches in the ground.
@@machinehead6892 Thanks!
Very nice set up, i burn wmo, and wood, but seperare, i use a fuel oil furnace converted, i was wanting to do the same set up you have, and after seeing your setup, i now know what im going to do and how to do it. Is your water copper lines that inside seperated by a steel plate or are they just sitting inside exposed to the flames? What are the square tubing bolted on front for and what is the round tubing welded on each side for? I appreciate you sharing, it will help me better understand how i will do it. I love the heat that get from oil, it packs a bunch btu's and easy to move around vs wood. We are completely offgrid, solar and wind, and i love it, sure its a bit work, but having the self sustainable and never worry about power going out.
I bought 6 vacuum tube thermal water solar panels, that i will be installing and putting in a big water tank, im hoping that it will help take care of heating and having alot more hot water, from everything ive seen, they should make 150f-200f hot water even in freezing weather, i guess we will see when i put it in this summer.
The lines are all copper and 56 elbows all soldered together in 3 layers to make 27 passes and yes exposed to as much of the flames as possible at all times, I have to scrape them once a week and front panel access makes it easy.
@machinehead6892 ok, I got ya, access panel, thanks for replying, that helps alot.
Huge thumbs up.. Big question, with the copper loops you have in the stove, how do you keep the solder joints from melting, is it because you keep constant water circulation.?
Have you ever tried to un solder pipe when there is even the slightest amount of water in it, it is near impossible, so as long as the water flows through the pipes the solder joints are safe, I tested it to 150C of steam with no problems.
I have about the same set up about but i put a bypass that blocks off the boiler return and installed a tee but still leave the supply open for the pressure relief valve. I think for me it works better not trying to heat up the whole boiler and just send the hot water right to the house? Thoughts
I am set up in a similar way, the returning water goes straight back to the boiler and the excess will go to the storage tank, it heats up really fast this way, I can get to full temp in about 30 minutes.
When you burn the oil, do you get hint of the smell of the burning oil exhaust?
No, if you get the air fuel mixture set right, you get zero smoke and zero smell, ive been heating this way for years, and you can stand next to the smoke stack, and smell nothing, you see nothing but heat waves.
Only when it is first fired up (cold) once hot, the oil is completely incinerated and no smell or smoke, the stove is white inside because even the creosote from wood burning is all burnt away.
That is totally true, it actually burns cleaner than wood, nothing left, no ash.
Very awesome boiler system!!
Thank you, it is working great and was super cheap to build.
WTF dude .I'm at a loss for words without getting flagged, I'm all for saving a buck, I burn wood myself. but WTF. I'm a blue seal licensed operator, since the 80s started as a HVAC guy. WOW is all. Just WOW,
Thanks, I have been experimenting with different systems for years and I like to build crazy stuff, this stove has been a marvel and is saving me lots of money in the process, it is a fraction of the price of modern wood boilers now costing around 16k for the most basic unit.
@@machinehead6892 wasn't a compliment.you over complicated it & Not 1 safety/relief valve for starters
Actually there are two thermal relief valves@@richvanorden7026just can't see them in the video.
@@machinehead6892watched it again, and I didn't see any. No safety on the oil feed as well. Recipe for disaster my friend. Ever see a boiler explode.
@@richvanorden7026another nanny 😂
Great job!!! can You write what compressor You use?or link to buy one? Great thnx:)
It is a linear compressor from Amazon, they are used for large fish tanks, this one can produce 15 psi continually.
hi great system
it is almost the same like mine here in ns.
im interestet in your diy oil burner buildt with meshurements with pictures please i piced up an cast iron oil boiler that i will plum parallel to my wood boiler.
thx
What is it you would like to know about the oil injector? it is a waste oil furnace injector powered with a linear compressor and it is mounted in a 3" square intake.
hi thx
just pictures from the burner nozzle assembly, i can see the outside in the video, the injector nozzle assembly from the front
please
thx
@@machinehead6892pick of the what exchanger
Something you may want to consider if you don’t already have them, but they make fire O-Matic valves you put in the oil line temperature in the area of the valve gets above 165. It kills the oil. Also they make the same temperature really related safety device that wires into your system generally, the box directly above the boiler and when that reaches 165 or 185 you can buy different plugs for it but it kills the power to it if it gets too hot and everybody else is watching this remember you have insurance on your home these systems have nothing to do with oil or electric code or or HVAC codes. All of this is outside of the world of that system so if you do have a fire in your house Company is gonna say nope no way and you’re not getting a nickel they will wash their hands your property😳😳
I'm not using this system any more, I have built a negative pressure downdraft gasification boiler that can also accommodate the oil burner, I will post the new build as soon as I get the video finished, thanks for watching.
You sir are a GENIUS🙏🏼❤️🔥❤️🔥❤️🔥
Are you in Manitoba?
No I am in BC.
Why is there any of your water outside of the warmed basement? I don’t get that. I can’t that tank sit down seller right next to the other tanks so that your plumbing has kept as short as possible and you’re in a warm space?
Other than that fabulous job I am jealous as hell and now I need to go find a used woodstove so I can convert it into the multi stove that you have great job ! Be careful hauling the waste motor oil in the United States. You need to have placards a special driving license insurance all of those things to transport more than 20 gallons. Just be careful❤️❤️🇺🇸
The stove is not in my basement, it is in my shop at the other end of my yard 120' feet away, and the storage tank is in another building behind my shop.
Good for you 👍
Thank you.
Thats awesome
You haven't seen anything yet!
Very cool
Thank you
We need video build tutorial pls 🙏 Thanks
My second Video shows more of the injection unit.
Nice !....sticken it to the gas man!
That's the plan!
Nice
Thanks