Here’s my question. If they have a weight to them as is and you want to do this when you remove the shafts from the club head and there’s a tip weight why not just use it instead of having to use all new ones and re weigh everything
Hi Ryan, another great video. Not to nitpick, because it's obvious that you are very thorough, would you not wipe down the hosel of the club head with acetone (or blow it with air) after using the wire brush? As some bits of residue may still be in there?
Couldn't you just weigh the old swing weight you remove on a scale to know which new weight to use? Even with some resin present, should be able to get reasonably close I would assume? Most of us don't have equipment to measure club swing weight.
I could never trust myself lining up logo with grooves like that. I always feel like it need to look down on the club, so end up using those clips that hold head to shaft.
Hi Wesley, Ryan here. Thanks for watching the video and asking a great question. Yes, there is certainly a case to be made for reusing the factory tip weights. The problem is the amount of time it takes to clean them out vs. the cost of just using new ones. Based on the potential for changing the final swing weight I wanted to use new ones which is also best practice.
I also noticed that the set on the wall that the grips were not aligned. One of the grips you could see the logo. Wouldnt you align the head with the logo all facing the same way?
DexterBoots09 the other set on the wall is waiting to be built. You can tell because they don’t have the ferrules on them. When you have more than 1 set to do, you often times just prep each set all at once then set them off to the side to be built. Makes the process a lot faster.
i wish you would do my clubs for me! I've been looking at getting new Ferrules for my P790's but im not an expert when it comes to dissembling clubs....
Oh my God. For anyone watching, please never just stick a random size drill bit in your club to clean the old adhesive out. This is wrong for so many reasons.
Where are the ferrules from? They don't look like they are collared ferrule and I believe titleist irons use collars. Has this changed or is it not absolutely neccessary?
So two things you did wrong. They seem small but they throw things off for a picky client. First of all you didn't use any centering beads. Secondly you leaned the club against the wall to dry. What does skipping the centering beads and leaning the club against the wall result in is a club head that is not centered on the shaft. Leaning the club against the wall will lead to the club head tilting with the bottom of the hosel pushed against the back of the bore and the top of the hosel pushed against the front of the bore. This is made worse by not having the centering beads in the epoxy! So the resulting club will have a lie angle change due to the tilt of the shaft in the bore of the hosel. i worked both at Hotsticks in Arizona and was the lead builder who created the custom build shop for KZ golf when they were in North Hollywood, Ca. if you use the centering beads and actually have a rack or table to lay your clubs down on while drying you will end up with the shaft being centered in the hosel bore and your lie angle being what it was bore as long as the previous build did his job correctly. I can look at a custom built club and see if this was done correctly on the finished club by looking closely at the ferrell. If it was done right before you trim the ferrell there will be an even lip all around the hosel. If it was done wrong you can see one side of the ferrel will have a bigger lip than the other. Usually the back side will have the bigger lip.
Shaft beads are only used when there is play in the hosel, if the shaft O.D. is tight against the hosel I.D. then where do you expect the centering beads to go? Clearly you don't have the experience to call this gentleman out..
@@k2sumner and btw, that difference in tolerance is literally designed for centering beads. Anyone who claims to know anything about clubs should be aware of this.
I finished this video just to see how many times you mispronounced "process". Also, RIP to those poor clubs. Never just stick a drill bit into a head like that and then use absolutely no centering beads when gluing.
Here’s my question. If they have a weight to them as is and you want to do this when you remove the shafts from the club head and there’s a tip weight why not just use it instead of having to use all new ones and re weigh everything
Nice tutorial. I like how you explain things and make it easy to follow along. Thanks for the help.
Dude. Love this page. Wanting to start getting into this. What shaft puller is this? Can you link it?
How is taking out the old tip weight and adding a new one differ? Can air not escape with the old one?
Can you leave the tip weights if you’re doing it without grips?
My new favorite drinking game, take a shot evert time he says "pro-cess"
I'm hammered!
Can you reuse tip weights?
Hi Ryan, another great video. Not to nitpick, because it's obvious that you are very thorough, would you not wipe down the hosel of the club head with acetone (or blow it with air) after using the wire brush? As some bits of residue may still be in there?
HI Gary, Ryan Here,
After going through the process of cleaning with the wire brush and just tapping it on the bench its good to go.
Couldn't you just weigh the old swing weight you remove on a scale to know which new weight to use? Even with some resin present, should be able to get reasonably close I would assume? Most of us don't have equipment to measure club swing weight.
Do you use your belt sander to finish the ferrules to proper size? Can you do a short “how to” on that step?
I could never trust myself lining up logo with grooves like that. I always feel like it need to look down on the club, so end up using those clips that hold head to shaft.
You mentioned you were going to include a tip to prevent ferrule creep when setting but i didnt catch it
Great vid thanks. .Can I use metal ferrules for graphite shafts. Thanks Regards David
would you be able to put these ferrules on driver/woods/hybrids shafts?
VERY informative!!!!
When weighing the club, the ferrel was not on the club. Is it that the weight of the ferrel is not important or neligible? See @10.00"
Ryan do you do work for paying customers? thanks for the info!
Thanks for the great information
Great video
Ever thought about using a “spine finder” for shafts. I hear this plays a big factor
I got a little impatient when I thought you could be more concise as it’s a pretty long video, but a good tutorial nonetheless!
Great video, but not enough close up views of the parts you are discussing as you disassemble.
Anyone the the ferrule size for a 2007 Taylormade burner 5 wood?
do you not have to turn down the bf&f ferrules?
Where could I get tip weights
Drilling the grip 🤣 why oh why ???
What if my ferrule has came loose ?
Wait, isn’t he on TXG now? Lol
what does this cost?
Can the tip weights just be cleaned and reused?
Hi Wesley, Ryan here.
Thanks for watching the video and asking a great question.
Yes, there is certainly a case to be made for reusing the factory tip weights. The problem is the amount of time it takes to clean them out vs. the cost of just using new ones. Based on the potential for changing the final swing weight I wanted to use new ones which is also best practice.
do you use shafting beads?
I also noticed that the set on the wall that the grips were not aligned. One of the grips you could see the logo. Wouldnt you align the head with the logo all facing the same way?
DexterBoots09 the other set on the wall is waiting to be built. You can tell because they don’t have the ferrules on them. When you have more than 1 set to do, you often times just prep each set all at once then set them off to the side to be built. Makes the process a lot faster.
i wish you would do my clubs for me! I've been looking at getting new Ferrules for my P790's but im not an expert when it comes to dissembling clubs....
He must be Canadian
Oh my God.
For anyone watching, please never just stick a random size drill bit in your club to clean the old adhesive out.
This is wrong for so many reasons.
I was wondering about that.
Where are the ferrules from?
They don't look like they are collared ferrule and I believe titleist irons use collars. Has this changed or is it not absolutely neccessary?
Boyd Blade and Ferrule company
If you didn't say process proosis 1000 times
So two things you did wrong. They seem small but they throw things off for a picky client. First of all you didn't use any centering beads. Secondly you leaned the club against the wall to dry. What does skipping the centering beads and leaning the club against the wall result in is a club head that is not centered on the shaft. Leaning the club against the wall will lead to the club head tilting with the bottom of the hosel pushed against the back of the bore and the top of the hosel pushed against the front of the bore. This is made worse by not having the centering beads in the epoxy! So the resulting club will have a lie angle change due to the tilt of the shaft in the bore of the hosel. i worked both at Hotsticks in Arizona and was the lead builder who created the custom build shop for KZ golf when they were in North Hollywood, Ca. if you use the centering beads and actually have a rack or table to lay your clubs down on while drying you will end up with the shaft being centered in the hosel bore and your lie angle being what it was bore as long as the previous build did his job correctly. I can look at a custom built club and see if this was done correctly on the finished club by looking closely at the ferrell. If it was done right before you trim the ferrell there will be an even lip all around the hosel. If it was done wrong you can see one side of the ferrel will have a bigger lip than the other. Usually the back side will have the bigger lip.
Shaft beads are only used when there is play in the hosel, if the shaft O.D. is tight against the hosel I.D. then where do you expect the centering beads to go? Clearly you don't have the experience to call this gentleman out..
@@k2sumner are you kidding me right now?
Centering beads are used in every new club build, period.
@@k2sumner it's literally microscope beads designed to makeup the difference in the od vs the id.
@@k2sumner and btw, that difference in tolerance is literally designed for centering beads. Anyone who claims to know anything about clubs should be aware of this.
I finished this video just to see how many times you mispronounced "process".
Also, RIP to those poor clubs. Never just stick a drill bit into a head like that and then use absolutely no centering beads when gluing.