Air Assisted Airless Spraying. How to Spray a Timber Window
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2024
- Air Assisted Airless spraying guide. How to spray a Timber Window using Graco and Wagner GM4700.
So this is a bit of an interim video which will hopefully help a few people out I have spoken to recently! Spraying seems to be quite a stressful aspect to joinery for a start, so hopefully this video will go some way to answering some questions. It certainly would have helped me!!!! I will update in the future with more specific videos on the individual parts of the process but this is a good base to answer a-lot of the questions I get asked!
My Equipment....
Paint Pump (air assisted airless) - Graco Merkur (I would reccomend a graco mini Merkur setup for a one man band like myself)
Paint Spray Gun- Wagner GM4700ac
Spray booth - 3.3m from Richmond Spray Booths
Spray Mask 3m 4251 - amzn.to/2z0EVRf
Coverall 3m 4530
Let us know what you think in the comments below and subscribe for more videos.
If you’d like to support the channel so we can make more videos please consider becoming one of our Patrons.
Patreon is a simple way for people to support the channel with a minimal monthly subscription.
If you'd like to support us go to our Patreon page here - / bradshawjoinery
Help support the channel when shopping on Amazon, if you click this link below before buying anything on amazon, I will receive a small percentage of the sale price. It will not cost you any more, so please help me out if you can.
UK: amazon.co.uk/?...
US: amazon.com/?ta...
INSTAGRAM ► / bradshawjoinery
TWITTER ► / bradshawjoinery
FACEBOOK ► / bradshawjoinery
WEBSITE ► BradshawJoiner...
qpwoeirutyghfjdkslazmxncnv41
#Joinery #Woodworking
If you would like to show your support by giving back to us go to our Patreon page here - patreon.com/BradshawJoinery
Thanks again for a very informative video. I really like the fact that you go into fine details on things that really do matter. It's always good to learn from someone who does this for a living.
Thanks Ian, I appreciate that comment as sometimes look at other channels and videos that get high views showing the projects coming together quickly with little or no explanation and wonder if i should just do the same. My initial idea for doing the videos was to educate/transfer some knowledge to others. I was lucky enough to be taught by a local joiner as an apprentice and as ive not taken an apprentice on i thought this was a good avenue to transfer some knowledge!!
@@BradshawJoinery I love your attitude to sharing knowledge n appreciate the time u spend to share the info... this is the first video I've seen from you! You've got a new sub. Thanks a mill and keep up the good work 💪👷👍
Starting to watch all your vids one by one. I'm a joiner in west yorkshire, but your a different level man! Just an education everytime, thanks
Nice one again Jack. Relly pleased they are of use to you! :D
Very thorough , Thanks. It was fun to follow your vid all the way through. I've been spraying air assisted on site -water based products -for at least 20 years. Principally ILVA. New construction and remodels .
It is absolutely the easiest way to get efficient & excellent results. Our system has definitely evolved over time, which has been fun. I can't even imagine considering working as we did earlier in my career.
Never hurts to remind painters to wear a mask.
Cheers Mark, Ive never heard of IVLA, so thanks for that.. Its good to know someone who does it full time hasn't picked too many holes in what ive said! haha
There is a forum on facebook called Spraying makes sense full of a collective of people who mainly do site work like you mention, sounds like you would be a valuable asset on there!
All the best mate
Thank you! Very informative. I use air fed spray guns a lot, and was looking into getting an airless system for thicker paints but wasn't sure I'd get a high-quality surface finish .. this seems to be the ideal solution!
Good to hear Miles! I've had some great finished from the waterborne enamels on internal projects!
BRADSHAW JOINERY Which water borne enamel system do you use?
Sherwin Williams. I've moved onto a new product now which is really thick. Great for quick buldd with spraying and hand finishing on site!
Another great vid 👍, sadly I’ve watched it twice 😂😂, some great advice and info for us new to AAA. I just bought the Wagner 4700 and it came with the red cap which I thought was incorrect for water based paint but just noticed you use the red cap for WB paint, cheers.
Tbh Richard I've never given it any though 🤣. It certainly sprays well and a vast improvement over the old gun my pump came with
As always, loving the attention to detail.
Thankyou Daisy! Nice to see you enjoying the older videos. Alot of good info in them even if the edits arent as slick etc.
Loving the videos I have gone back through all your back catalogue loving them all please keep up all the great work
Awesome! Thank you! Plans to have a few more coming!!!
Absolutely excellent, very well explained 👍 cheers M
Cheers Matthew! I wish i had a video like this to watch when i started. Really struggled with the whole setup and paint etc!!! Worth perservering with in the end
Fantastic Video, again fantastic detail
Many thanks Chris
Top notch content
Legend!
Excellent, was waiting for this. Watch the isocyanates if using 2k poly. Might consider air fed mask. You deserve more subs. Keep safe.
Thanks Gary! I have a air fed mask but I don't tend to use 2k paints tbh. Saying that I have a fair size project coming up with pu high gloss finish!
Great video! Thanks
Cheers Luke!
Outstanding work !!!
Many thanks!
@@BradshawJoinery keep filming your work,is very informative !!! Thank you a lot
I was very surprised to see you painting at such a low pressure and going over it so many times. I guess its a different way. I have a kremlin and do it heavier but there is no going over it twice. I do inside the window in a single loop, start and finish top left, then outside edges, then the face. I might try your low pressure style.
Definitely turn pressure down, makes an even coating thickness easier to build without over applying especially when painting both sides at once!
Lol think l’m gonna bee bussy (sic) watching your back catalogue 👍🤦🏻
Great detail fanks🎯🍑y
Cheers Clive, appreciate that :)
Great video mate, as always 👍❤
Nice one Chris!!! Hope you are well and still woodbashing!
@@BradshawJoinery I'm well mate thanks. And yes, still wood butchering! A lot of roofing these past few months
Love the details you go into. I have just set up with hvlp! After just building a sappele bay window, eager to get ùsing the new system I used acrylic primer with 3 coats. Looked great after 24 hrs and ready for johnstone top coat acrylic, i applied 2 watered down top coats 3/1 mix roughly and with a few hours between for drying.
Came in this morning to find the timber had bled right through all coats. Was devastating...... looked dreadful
Zinzzzster to the rescue!
Any advice guys? Complete novice in spaying. My thoughts are to use technos blocking primer!!
Thanks in advance.
Yes youll need a anti stain/bleed primer coat, hardwoods are the worst for it but can get it on all timbers. Joinery paints are generally quite thick, id look at the sikkens/akzo nobel joinery paints as ive found them the thinnest if your using that type of sprayer! Ive found the primer needs to really dry well if you are getting bleed after the first coat, otherwise the second coat just absorbs the bleed from the first!! Set it in a small room with fans going and bake it with a heater.
Having been in the trade for nearly forty years, I see much decent joinery let down by the coatings.
Water based coatings are better than they used to be, but still much inferior to solvent based for exterior joinery.
We tried spraying the first coat but stopped as spraying does not work the paint into the grain, ( Especially hardwoods ) or internal corners.... Brush is best for that.
The best system Was the Dulux Weathershield system with the solvent based preservative...... The paint on my south facing kitchen window is still sound after thirteen years.
Again, Aluminium primer on hardwoods needs to be brushed on, or it just sits on top'
Doing things faster in the workshop is not always the best for the longevity of the timber.
I kinda agree, and also disagree. Spraying a traditionally made timber window, without the right prep isnt as good asd hand finishing it. However, if your joinery is made with the right radius and v groove joints, end grain sealant before assembly, v groove sealant in said joints and corners, then spraying with the correct primer and coating thickness is better. You get a layer of paint on the timber much thicker than you would by brush, which allows the wet coating to absorb into the timber before drying and is a one piece coating, not a think brushed in primer coat. 2x more layers and you have very comprehensive coating that will las a long time. It will need a wash maintenance to keep it looking fresh (they dull over time) but i wouldnt say solvent based is better. If anything Wb is more flexible. On something like Iroko or other Oily hardwoods i would lean towards Solvent based, but for my joinery on Accoya This system is the best. THe very first window i made in 2007 using Accoya, when washed down the coating is as intact as it was when new.. Literally the coating is great.
@bradshawjoinery thanks for sharing this excellent series, would you kindly mind sharing what exterior top coat paint you would recommend? Would you use a sikkens product?
Awesome video pal. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it thanks
Bradshaw, excellent video and very informative. I can see the Spray Booth Concertina Pleated Cardboard your using and wanted to enquire what is the best way to extract the over spray so it's drawn into the filters, are the fans above, behind at the side and how many are you using to pull the excess into the filters. What fans are using and the size of the booth? Thanks for your time.
Hi Gaz, thanks mate, i have a 630mm fan that pulls the air out the room horizontally then into a chimney. you need a box behind the filter wall that the fan sucks from to allow the air to be sucked from all areas of the filter wall. Booth is 3.3m from richmond spray booths. hope this helps
@@BradshawJoinery Yes very helpful Bradshaw, a 630mm fan? is that the type you find in extractors for commercial kitchens. Thanks again.
It might not be 630 but that rang a bell... Something like this so the electrics are shielded from the vapours m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spray-Booth-Extractor-Fan-Flame-Proof-Electric-Motor-1-1kW-Axial-3-Phase-ATEX-/164476714955?ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1%3Fff3%3D4%26pub%3D5574631662%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5338624526%26customid%3D8d376d9f375b077101dd57ed74af0b98%26mpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fitm%252FSpray-Booth-Extractor-Fan-Flame-Proof-Electric-Motor-1-1kW-Axial-3-Phase-ATEX-%252F164476714955%26srcrot%3D710-53481-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D2672568143461%26rvr_ts%3D99da09421750a9b135a2c16efddf583f&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true
Thanks for the video. Can you explain your setup for the booth / fans etc? How many fans are behind the baffle and in what positions? Thanks
NO worries, one 600mm spray booth fan, its actually mounted horizontally behind the booth, goes out the wall and then into a homemade chimney between two buildings. the chimney is a bit "basic" but it got it up and running and works! Bought the complete booth from richmond spray booths. there is a chamber behind the filters to allow the air to spread across the whole filter panel before entering the fan.
@@BradshawJoinery Sorry - missed your reply - thanks for the info :)
Bradshaw... What is that sealant you're using, and do you not seal after you prime? I've not seen many people using a caulking type of product direct to raw wood. IMO, it bonds better to a freshly primed surface. Let me know what you think, please. Thanks!
This stuff is mega and will bond straight to the wood. It's best to prime over the top for a perfect 3 coat seal. It's called v groove sealant by sikkens. Shrinks alot as it dries but give it a test. Mega stretchy and easily painted!
in your opinion what]s the best choice for primmers, airmix or airless? I mostly use polyurethane primmers also for finishing my cabinets.Nice video
I only use air assisted airless. striaght airless isnt ideal for furniture in my opinion! PU is the most durable but generally im using WB enamel for interior woodwork!
Good video, thanks
5 :)
Great detailed video mate. Fascinating. You talked briefly about the v grooves at the joints. Is this something that is needed only if you are spray painting or does the same apply for a brush finish?. I just made some wooden windows which I intend to paint but haven't done a v groove or put a 3mm radius on the edges - I don't really want to but your video got me thinking. Will it be necessary?
Thanks bud, not necessary for 3mm.roundover. it's mainly to help.protect the joint one from water ingress when the timber moves s little bit. It also helps when spraying as the paint will flow across the join and not track away from it
@@BradshawJoinery OK, so whether hand painting with a brush or spray painting the v grove at the joint performs the same job and is just as necessary? Sorry , one more question , the end grain protector that you applied to bare wood, the manufacturer says to apply after primer. Will applying after priming coat do the same job?
It depends on manufacturer as to whether to apply before or after primer, they vary and it doesn't matter. Ives seen zero difference in both methods but prefer before primer as the topcoat is purely painting over primer not a mix of materials..
Yes v groove helps the life of the joint/paint finish at the joint but windows have been made without them for centuries... It's just an advancement for modern materials/techniques. I know some people hate v grooves and do not use stall.
I was disappointed to not see the final installation of these windows & sashes. Did the customer veto the filming?
Hi pat, No Veto, just a focus on the spraying with this one. Apologies
Couldn't have come at a better time I'm just about to build front door from accoya. But with just my front door to do the sikkens only comes in 20ltr. Might have to find alternative. Great vid
I'm sure you can buy smaller quantities! I've asked for 5ltr tins before I think, but I definitley helps being an account holder and putting a bit through the account!
Morrells.
Very clever with the temporary hooks so that the whole thing can be coated at once. Do you fill the holes and brush on the coats afterwards?
No there is no need, use hinge recesses for casements and outsides of the window on the frames.
Excellence
Thanks Colin
'Off the scale' attention to detail and a joy to watch. It's probably not applicable to spraying, but I'd love to know your thoughts on linseed oil paint. P.S. the incidental music -- anything to do with you?
Hi Stephen, Thankyou, i will update this video eventually with shorter more Direct videos of each part, but for now itll do to help me with all the spraying messages i get!!! Linseed oil paint ive never used or know anyone locally using. I know there used to be a guy on UKworkshop forums who really raved about the stuff, but i never tried it.
@@BradshawJoinery Interesting. Thanks. Sub-editing one's own work is a skill, but it's difficult to imagine what you could cut out without losing an invaluable nugget of info. And the music...? :-)
Sorry Stephen I don't understand regarding the original music question? Was there music in the video?
@@BradshawJoinery Sorry -- wrong video. Timber Fireplace Surround: 4:06. Just wondered if a bit of quality shredding is another of your skills...
No it wasn't me. I started learning guitar through TH-cam tutorials and have got so far with it but feel I need some proper lessons now to progress. Can play a few things quite well and strum along to anything with the basic chords but soloing is beyond my abilities to say the least
just spray it man lol
haha i kow right :D
Have just bought a Wagner aaa need a pump next just wondering what cfm pump you’re using?
Im not sure!!! I assume by pump you mean compressor? Ours is an old Hydrovane 33 compressor. with about a 400l tank.
Hi I am a joinery painter and our firm is soon to be spraying with a Graco air assisted airless, what size tips do you use for most of your joinery, thanks.
mainly a 11 thou, 30 degree. the wagner gun has a pattern adjustment on it that will effectively run pencil jet to about 45 degree pattern from this tip which is great. some paint isnt filtered great, and will block the 11 thou tip, id look to change paint manufacturer if this happens.
some paints would also requite a narrower tip. but 11 thou is about right.
You should really be using linseed oil paint for all exterior painted wood, especially windows. It will preserve the wood and last for 100 years.
Linseed paint seems popular among some woodworkers, ive never personally tried it. When i looked into it, i think drying times were ridiculous, its also alot slower to apply than spraying. I havent got a bad thing to say about the coatings ive sprayed, all still looking great!
@@BradshawJoinery It depends what your finish and window life span expectations are. Linseed oil paint lasts almost forever and preserves wood. All modern paint finishes are non breathable plastic skins. If your customer wants a 7 to 10 year finish, use modern paints, if they want an all natural, 50 -100 year finish that preserves the wood, maybe linseed oil paint would be appealing. Linseed oil paint may provide you with an option to differentiate yourself. I use it for some customers and they love being different, being all natural and never having to paint again. For other customers I use modern paints. If you are going to all the trouble of crafting your own windows, I'd consider linseed oil paint. Initially it is more time, however your windows could potentially last forever and need little maintenance for the next 100 years. You also don't need to use expensive woods for the windows and have the option of tinted linseed oil wax finishes for window interiors.
I use airless and your right it is very harsh and very difficult to get it right as it chucks out the paint so fast and overspray is a problem with waste, need to look at other systems, can you put a 2k paint through that?
Yes you will need a system suitable for 2k paint, I've never used anything other than waterborne, I can imagine cleanup being a git with solvent based!
if you dont try the Graco FFLP fine finish tips your missing it
Half the pressure special double orifice. Use any tip you want. I sprayed a full body Acrylic
un thinned. Saved 2 gallons with almost no overspray. Sprayed up to 3 inches spraying dark blue up to white trim eves on a house. I used a 144. you might want finer atomization.
I've been spraying for 40 yrs all hvlp, air assisted airless etc. These tips are no joke.
If you want better use air assisted airless and set it up for your material viscosity
@@hugot12 I do use the Graco fflp 210 tip. But find I have to turn the pressure up to nearly 2000 psi to eliminate the tails. And find that it's coming out so fast that if I got an edge I either get not enough coverage or to much then get runs. I use a water based paint. Sayerlack primer and top coat and go through massive amounts of paint. I'm doing three alcove units in railings colour and ordered 25kg of each paint and cost me over 400. 🤬
sicpac66 I haven’t tried the FFLP let’s say a 412. Or 414 in my air assisted airless yet at lower pressure. As you know the additional air gets rid of tails. No need to be cranking up pressure to 2000. I sprayed sherwin williams super paint unthinned with an airless at 1000 psi. 414 FFLP tip
Came out perfect, used 6 gallons instead of 8, almost no overspray. I could get inches from a corner never get blowback to blow into the eves when spraying siding. A lot always depends on how well made and the quality of different paint manufacturers are.
There is that happy medium in which you use a larger tip orifice or not, how much water to reduce a heavy material or not.
What finish requires more or less orange peel or not ? If shooting for speed and production, airless with FFLP tips, air assisted airless slightly slower speeds, not such a bad trade off.
sicpac66 also stop trying to squeeze heavier viscosity materials through too small an orifice. Go with a larger tip size at lower pressure.
This is sometimes about layering your materials. Acrylics thinned 10-20 % can be done. Get enough air circulating after spraying
Quick light coats, just as water dries out of light coats, check to see if it’s slightly tacky like masking tape. When the next coat is applied,
with another light thinned layer, it will melt into the first slightly moist layer and flow out flattening the surface. Letting the first coat layer rid itself of that excess water, the second coat will have somewhere for the water to absorb into so it won’t run. Sometimes in closed environments
where paint will run, you must adapt with this type of plan if you want a smooth finish. Some of these new acrylic lacquers might be nice for cabinets. I hear PPG has something called breakthrough. This might be bought at Sherwinn Williams
Good video. What glue are you using with your Accoya?
Hi Ed, I use Pu glue in a tube normally. Slower glue ups I'll use titebond 3 👍
Great vid you you ever add pump armour or run it though your pump
Cheers Aaron, I don't no. I've always stored with either paint in the pump and pickup in bucket of water or just water in the whole system and not had a problem yet in 10 years 👍
@@BradshawJoinery that's amazing its still going, have you serviced it ever? that's is your machine called?
@@BradshawJoinery what air compressor do you use?
Many thanks mate
@@asdad2385 we have a Hydrovane 33 (old girl) and a 500 litre tank.
Hi i have a question is the graco 395 with a g40 can i ues the preformaa 50 with it ?
is the g40 not already an AAA gun, so if you can run that i dont see why not.? i think the preformaa is a updated version of the g40 by the looks of it. Id definitley look at the wagner gm4700ac its expensive but amazing
@@BradshawJoinery thanks for the reply reason for asking if my friend is selling me the performaa 50 for 300$ with the rac tips for the price compared to 1000 for a g40 🤷♂️
At 21.35 ish , airless has an hard edge , not if your using a triteck lp ff tip or a graco fflp tip , i can get the same finish in site or on site with the airless
Agreed, a dedicated airless gun has a softer edge, not as controllable as air assisted airless though for finer work
@@BradshawJoinery let me have a contact number or email address and I'll send you video of control without specialist spray guns
Went to the Renner factory in Bologna Italy and they were amazed at the application by airless
1 hour and 10 minutes to show a spraying !!!????? Any relation to scorsese movies!
Pretty good, it took me years to get the spraying to a standard I wanted it to be 👍
I try to make my video like I was teaching an apprentice. For which I'd say it would be 5 years of your life. Most folk can't do that commitment so an hour video on a subject is great. Can watch it in a single evening. Tiktok is good for short form