It appears you are setting this up for 110VAC power. Considering that you are drawing 20 amps, wouldn't it be better to use a 220VAC power source, which should drop the load to about 10 amps? Of course, if you don't have 220V in your shop, you don't have a lot of choice about that. I'll also note that the plug you are using for that is "technically" only rated for 15 amps. The correct 20 amp plug is a NEMA 5-20P, and you should change the outlet to a NEMA 5-20R, and have only that one load on the electrical circuit (i.e. no other outlets). Odds are that your wiring can handle the load, but your setup is not to code.
Love your videos!😍 Regarding ground wiring 4:40 : I saw that the "I'll Do It Myself"-TH-cam channel used the ground terminal on the VFD to the far right labeled with the ground symbol for ground from the wall and not the "R" terminal. The manual from my Huanyang 220volt VFD from Bulkman say that R, S & T can be used in addition to a ground connection for three phase power from the wall, and that for single phase(that most of us have) only two terminal is to be used, so I am a little confused/sceptical as to use R as ground from the wall... Is it safe in my case? 🤔
DJ, I was wondering what you ended up doing with your motor tuning settings. My Mach 3 is setup in inches. I set the "steps per:" at 1270. The X Axis was accurate within under a 1/16" on a 25" travel, and the Y axis was accurate within a 1/16th on 40". The problem was that the X axis was just shy and the Y axis was just a tad over. I'm also curious to see what you set your acceleration and maximum velocity to. Another weird thing I have is that the ACME-NUT-BLOCK ,which holds the screw, had a recessed circle on the side the precision shim and spacer went. It was odd because it seemed the hole was about the same size as the shim and spacer. When I tightened them the precision shim actually went inside the recess in the block thus changing the spacing and distorting the screw as it approached the end plates. I ended up loosening the blocks and thus letting the tensioned screw float where it would naturally, and I discovered it needed a 1.5mm shim to keep in that position. I'm looking forward to your next video.
I have been running into a lot of problems with the Novusun controller. I am researching into a solution. I got to as far as the steps and acceleration settings and they worked really well at: X 1277, 154.98, 300 Y 1277, 154.98, 300 Z 1277, 124.98, 225. These same settings could work for you as well or they might not. These settings have many different factors that determine what they need to be set at. Every machine is different even if they are the "same". I am going to keep cracking at my problems I'm having and let everyone know when I get some answers.
@@702marine I've been having weird problems, too. I was trying my first CNC milling with the phrase "God is Good" in "good vibrations' font, and I did it with a V carve bit. I created a g-code and looked at a simulation and everything seems to look great. I slowed the travel of the bit by half just to be safe, and made each pass only shave off an 1/8". I loaded it into Mach 3 and it works great at first and then eventually it will do something stupid like try to plunge the bit an inch deep and everything binds up and I'm scrambling to hit the escape button and hit the stop button on the spindle. I have no clue what is wrong. Btw, what's the best procedure to get the Z axis down onto the corner of the wood? I use the "page down" button, but its job increments are too large, despite the quickest touch. I'll end up turning of the machine and spinning the coupler by hand to get it where I want and then turn it back on, and go to the MDI page and manually zero at each axis.
Hey DJ. As I said, my first goal is to carve some things into the bunkbed headboards for my grandchildren. I want to put some Bible verses there with a nice font. What software do you recommend that I can draw such things that will then convert it to a code the Mach3 software will recognize? I'm willing to spends a few hundred on a good software that is compatible. I've learned not to go cheap with software.
Honestly I use Fusion 360 for just about everything. It is a very powerful and useful program and best of all it’s free for hobbyists. Once you learn how to use that program you can create just about anything...
@@702marine I have the same machine that you do. WorkBee from Bulman 1500 x 1500 with Novusun controllers. It is a screw drive. If I hold down the right arrow key, for example, it will accelerate for on second, kind of scream higher pitched and stop.
@@randymartin7072 The dip switch settings for the screwdrive are: 1,5 ON and 2,3,4 & 6 OFF. Make sure your screwdrive nut blocks are not binding up on the leadscrew. They should be snug but you should be able to turn the leadscrew with your fingers.
@@702marine Thank you. Yes, those are what my DIP switches have been set to. And I can also turn the flex coupler (I almost typed "flux capacitor") with my fingers and slowly move it across the axis. I actually put a mini vis-grip barely clamped to the end of the protruding screw and had been moving it that way. It doesn't bind at all. I'm thinking it's something in the software. I sure appreciate your help!
@@702marine I slowed the machine down to 1/4 the speed that it was before. Things move pretty slowly, but they do now move constantly holding down the arrow buttons and it doesn't scream. Thanks for your advice.
I wired mine up last night, and for colours I found stuff online that paired up UVW with RYB, so just used those colours.
Good info dude
It appears you are setting this up for 110VAC power. Considering that you are drawing 20 amps, wouldn't it be better to use a 220VAC power source, which should drop the load to about 10 amps? Of course, if you don't have 220V in your shop, you don't have a lot of choice about that. I'll also note that the plug you are using for that is "technically" only rated for 15 amps. The correct 20 amp plug is a NEMA 5-20P, and you should change the outlet to a NEMA 5-20R, and have only that one load on the electrical circuit (i.e. no other outlets). Odds are that your wiring can handle the load, but your setup is not to code.
Love your videos!😍 Regarding ground wiring 4:40 : I saw that the "I'll Do It Myself"-TH-cam channel used the ground terminal on the VFD to the far right labeled with the ground symbol for ground from the wall and not the "R" terminal. The manual from my Huanyang 220volt VFD from Bulkman say that R, S & T can be used in addition to a ground connection for three phase power from the wall, and that for single phase(that most of us have) only two terminal is to be used, so I am a little confused/sceptical as to use R as ground from the wall... Is it safe in my case? 🤔
DJ, I was wondering what you ended up doing with your motor tuning settings. My Mach 3 is setup in inches. I set the "steps per:" at 1270. The X Axis was accurate within under a 1/16" on a 25" travel, and the Y axis was accurate within a 1/16th on 40". The problem was that the X axis was just shy and the Y axis was just a tad over. I'm also curious to see what you set your acceleration and maximum velocity to.
Another weird thing I have is that the ACME-NUT-BLOCK ,which holds the screw, had a recessed circle on the side the precision shim and spacer went. It was odd because it seemed the hole was about the same size as the shim and spacer. When I tightened them the precision shim actually went inside the recess in the block thus changing the spacing and distorting the screw as it approached the end plates. I ended up loosening the blocks and thus letting the tensioned screw float where it would naturally, and I discovered it needed a 1.5mm shim to keep in that position. I'm looking forward to your next video.
I have been running into a lot of problems with the Novusun controller. I am researching into a solution. I got to as far as the steps and acceleration settings and they worked really well at: X 1277, 154.98, 300 Y 1277, 154.98, 300 Z 1277, 124.98, 225. These same settings could work for you as well or they might not. These settings have many different factors that determine what they need to be set at. Every machine is different even if they are the "same". I am going to keep cracking at my problems I'm having and let everyone know when I get some answers.
@@702marine I've been having weird problems, too. I was trying my first CNC milling with the phrase "God is Good" in "good vibrations' font, and I did it with a V carve bit. I created a g-code and looked at a simulation and everything seems to look great. I slowed the travel of the bit by half just to be safe, and made each pass only shave off an 1/8". I loaded it into Mach 3 and it works great at first and then eventually it will do something stupid like try to plunge the bit an inch deep and everything binds up and I'm scrambling to hit the escape button and hit the stop button on the spindle. I have no clue what is wrong.
Btw, what's the best procedure to get the Z axis down onto the corner of the wood? I use the "page down" button, but its job increments are too large, despite the quickest touch. I'll end up turning of the machine and spinning the coupler by hand to get it where I want and then turn it back on, and go to the MDI page and manually zero at each axis.
Hi still not done assembling?.im anxious to see an actual review on how it performs.
Almost done. Have to balance this and the family thing...
Hey DJ. As I said, my first goal is to carve some things into the bunkbed headboards for my grandchildren. I want to put some Bible verses there with a nice font. What software do you recommend that I can draw such things that will then convert it to a code the Mach3 software will recognize? I'm willing to spends a few hundred on a good software that is compatible. I've learned not to go cheap with software.
Honestly I use Fusion 360 for just about everything. It is a very powerful and useful program and best of all it’s free for hobbyists. Once you learn how to use that program you can create just about anything...
ciao, ma non rispettate la nomenclatura colori europea? In comunità europea il cavo GND è sempre colorato a strisce giallo+verde
What did you set your DIP switches to? My machine will now move about when I use the arrow keys on the keyboard, but the movement is choppy and loud.
Do you have belt drive or screw drive?
@@702marine I have the same machine that you do. WorkBee from Bulman 1500 x 1500 with Novusun controllers. It is a screw drive. If I hold down the right arrow key, for example, it will accelerate for on second, kind of scream higher pitched and stop.
@@randymartin7072 The dip switch settings for the screwdrive are: 1,5 ON and 2,3,4 & 6 OFF. Make sure your screwdrive nut blocks are not binding up on the leadscrew. They should be snug but you should be able to turn the leadscrew with your fingers.
@@702marine Thank you. Yes, those are what my DIP switches have been set to. And I can also turn the flex coupler (I almost typed "flux capacitor") with my fingers and slowly move it across the axis. I actually put a mini vis-grip barely clamped to the end of the protruding screw and had been moving it that way. It doesn't bind at all. I'm thinking it's something in the software.
I sure appreciate your help!
@@702marine I slowed the machine down to 1/4 the speed that it was before. Things move pretty slowly, but they do now move constantly holding down the arrow buttons and it doesn't scream. Thanks for your advice.