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Storm Surfers - How Heavy is a Big Wave?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ย. 2012
- www.TheSurfChan...
How heavy is a big wave? An incredible amount of water threatens the life of a big wave surfer, with just the lip of some breaks weighing more than 300 small cars. Australian Storm Surfers Ross Clarke-Jones and Tom Carroll charge some of the heaviest waves on the planet. In this clip, they break down the mathematical details on how heavy big waves actually are when athletes take them on the head.
"A lot of guys that surf big waves are a lot fitter than me, but they don't have that natural spirit to just go. It's just a charging mechanism or something," says big wave charger, Ross Clarke-Jones.
For more information and videos of Storm Surfers visit: www.thesurfchan...
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how heavy? HEAVY AS FUCK
Incredible! Pretty amazing they can calculate how heavy a wave is based on simple measurements- definitely not a mutant I would wanna get caught under! Sick vid!!
I don't doubt the wave weights that much but with my experience as a amateur surfer a big wave crashing on top of your head doesn't feel like tons of water, i assume that it's because water is a fluid and not a solid object, so in reality that wave falling on top of you won't kill you, what might kill you is the reef or rocks under the water. Would love for someone knowledgeable to explain the science of this.
yep
I don't think you surfed waves like Mavericks and pipeline
Moogs Watto True i haven't surfed those waves, biggest i've surfed is Puerto Escondido and Todos Santos, Still the things that kill and harm are the rocks and reef under the water, not the weight of the wave itself.
+Silkaz7 with waves like these its mostly the flush that can kill you
+Silkaz7 I surfed Teahupoo a couple times in 2010. Just recently again. Teahupoo means "cracked skull" or " skull crack". Like you said its only because of the reef. I hit the reef hard and light. I fell down and did a wash cycle inside a massive barrel. I would whole heartingly say i would rather fall into that barrel then hit the reef again. Scars and scars
the whole measurement of the weight of the water a tad daft (and the weight 1 cubic meter of seawater can vary quite a lot due to saline levels.), also are not going to have all that section coming down on your head since its a liquid the only relevant part is the actual water that would hit you on the head, Then mixing Imperial and metric measurements is just fucking dumb, they wanted to make is sound more dramatic than it is, but them chargers are still all nuts and i have great respect for em.
yeah it is daft but the measurements were conservative. Water alone weighs roughly a tonne per cubic meter and salt water always weighs more than that.
YOU WOULDNT KNOW YOUR ARSE FROM YOUR ELBOW KEV
It also doesn't make sense to factor the groundspeed of the wave into the impact force, since the surfer is moving with the wave over ground.
I mean the whole angle of the clip is the power of big waves in relation to surfers, not lighthouses.
th-cam.com/video/93nBQQyHDhc/w-d-xo.html
You should check out waves in Nazare, Portugal. THOSE are some big waves!
Wow! That gives a great insight into the power of water. I've been hit by a few monsters in my time but always from behind the comfort of toughened safety glass.
well that explained fuck all
The density of the white water be lower than one tonne per cubic metre? Still, massive respect to those who dare and all of the fallen surfers.
How heavy is Teahupo'o approximately (weighed in tons)? I really need to know for this presentation i have coming up! Please respond
This is interesting to me because I had my left knee ACL ( Anterior Cruciate Ligament ) shreded ( most common NFL injury... and i was not even standing... I was PADDLING trying to get under the thing... and it just rag dolled my leg underwater...
I don't think I'll trade in my parachute anytime soon, but I can see the appeal! Much respect!
That is amazing that these guys do this!
Water is heavy. One gallon weighs 8.33 pounds. I've had to carry 5 gallon jugs up 4 flights on US Navy ship. That's over 41 pounds. I can't imagine all that ocean water surrounding me. It's intimidating for sure. I'll stay inland, near the desert and forests. Props to the gals and guys who live for it. ^.^
They could have discussed elastic vs inelastic collisions, momentum, potential & kinetic energy. But I think the answer is there: 2:34
2:14 those types of waves scare me. the ones with a lot of forward momentum and a long, continuous break. i find that getting caught in one of those makes drowning more likely than waves that expel most of their energy on the initial break. all big waves will break you in half though.
They like to run, the feeling of out running pain is the rush that forces them to focus or the unknown, is also the draw. Respectfully, Scott
when a heavy wave throws you, its not so much the weight, its the turbulence you feel, like someones trying to tear you in half and theres nothing you can do about it but go ragdoll and wait
Insane!! Don't mess with nature… These guys are something else!
"The result is..." A good TH-cam clip
Wish you would also state U.S./imperial measurement system.
at the regular beach, when a tiny wave crashes around you, it's nothing. If a giant wave hit you rather than crash around you it'd break you in half. Seems about right i've always wondered what happens if a big wave hit you.
I love it.. completely in tandem with nature.. mental.. the have to be with these ones moreso I imagine.
falling on one of those waves your held under for about 10-15 seconds and feels like 4 minutes when i surf like 4-6 and fall on those size waves i fell like i am drowning some times.
2:19 look at the wave loool
It be looking like a snowy mountain
A lot of bad physics here.
Care to explain ?
Alex Betten All respect to the surfers, it sure is dangerous but the physics is pseudo. You can't arbitrarily use the weight of a 20m section of wave - the surfer is only hit by a fraction of that. 70km/h free fall - guesstimate. Bursting lungs? It may feel that way but lungs don't burst in these situations.
Marc Cawood It said "burst eardrums" which takes much less pressure.
Marc Cawood that wave would knock the wind out of any mans lungs
@@alexxxbe75 the weight of a cubic meter of water wouldn't apply in the same way cuz the lip doesn't appear to be 1 meter thick where it lands and once the water breaks it becomes super aerated and wouldn't be as dense as cubic meters of still water and a 20 meter cross section wouldn't be relevant and stuff like that
Waves are beautiful, yet very frightening...
Not taken into consideration on this scientific analysis is the human body is approximately 70-80% water and therefore lighter and more buoyant in the surf. It's still a load of water coming down on you but just have to let your body rise to the surface when falling off the board and staying cool, calm and relaxed in what feels like a washing machine.
hey just wondering if anyone with experience can answer.... if one of these big ass waves crashes, how far deep does it affect the water? like if one crashed in front of you, how deep would you have to go under so it doesnt affect you?
Just press "6" to see the weight
portugal who new u ' d be showing us the biggest waves in the world!!!!
maugh i love u atlantic! So big... bahamas would love some size
I’ve had a little wave probably 6 foot wave tumble me and it’s not fun I can only imagine this
Garret Macnamara at Nazaré - Giant waves video !!!
Nazare - Macnamara Cotty Vau
Amazing!
That was awsome !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
315 cars falling on top of you if you hesitate for a second. crazy
The weight is mostly irrelevant as it doesn’t put all its weight on you… Props to these guys staying relevant.
Intense! Interesting! Incredible! Thanks!
haha thats how i feel in 4ft waves sometimes. This is beyond comprehension until you get held down for a minute, dragged across the reef or slammed into the bank and then try to figure out whats hurt and most importantly which way is up. When you add half a million tonnes of weight, being 20% more bouyant because you are in salt water...haha yeh that makes absolutley no difference in massive swell. They would be wearing at least 4.3 wettys that would help alot though.Dont relax though, swim.
Balls of steel.
Not at all. 1 cubic metre is 1000 litres and since 1 liter = 1kg, that gives a ton. Every ten metres you descent under water adds 1 atmosphere of pressure (1 bar).
those four dislikers are landlocked
that my friend is not a shark but a boil caused by the shallow rocks/reef below
the question really is considering the weight and momentum of the water why is it not more dangerous..
But wouldn't moving water have more weight force than just the weight of water itself?
sic mate
I got a pro tip for other pro surfers.... Keep an eye on the waves coming at you..... i sadly learned that the hard way
Surfing is the most badass sport in the world don't @ me
after the red bull leap from space to earth this must be the most extreme thing you can do
INCORRECT
1:39 TEN meters high!!
canadianbacon007 Nazare, Portugal has 30m
This doesn't help -_- thanks for boosting my confidence 😂😂😂
this stuff is epic
At 0:39 they seems to be a shark or some kind of animal on the right of the wave
faite atontion bravo
wonder how heavy teahupoo waves would be?
1000 kgs per square meter of wave?
I never knew waves could do that much of a damage to the human body?!
A wave of intent (big wave) is a wave of possibility !
Why?
Try Portugal...
Depends on how deep it is.
can someone mathematic here find out how heavy a six foot wave is for me please I'm really curious
+ReadySetVlog I learnt how to surf in six foot waves and had no problem, weighs alot but is easy to handle
1m2 of water is 1 ton
those answers are all wrong.... it depends sometimes a 6ft wave can be super lay back others can be heavy
we are counting the whole wave not just the lip so in those terms even like a waist high wave can weigh shit loads a 5 meter section waist high is 5000 kg pretty cool in terms of natural power and its no thing for the ocean to throw those out
oh well i just learnt something new today thanks
never thought that how heavy is it :OOOOO
Wowwwww awesome that wave was. Big
TODOS SANTOS ENSENADA MX
How deep is there where they are surfing?
Teahupoo is the heaviest wave period.
But he's not getting hit by the whole wave, only the bit that actually connects with his body... which isn't the entire 315 car's worth of wave...
Ross Clarke Jones = Milo Kerrigan
Gnarly!
sooo cool
from tosh.o good one...
Is that the joke where you say, " I can do that, hold my beer". If it is I will seriously bash whoever said that.
that's like saying 'ten million meters along the length of a quadrant of the earth's meridian - W.T.F.'
good redbull commercial
Blue balled
WoW amazing... but just somebody pinch his nose @2:30
só os loucos!
Fuck that those guys are out of their damn minds!
what do you mean WTF? that's how the kg was originally defined. decimeter³ of water
2019?
ok that's way heavier than I thought
imagine how fast you'd go...
HEAVY
i was thinking of taking up surfing but when you put it like that... yeah nah
Try windsurfing. You don't need big waves (or tug jetskis) and still have fun ...
TavernSenses you don't need BIG waves or jets for surfing
you dont need to be like ross clark jones he is a freak of nature
Most surfers surf waves under ten, maybe five feet or smaller, not fucking 40-50feet like this.
Don't be scared. Just hit 3-5 ft waves like waikiki first
why not 200 big cars instead of 315 small ones???
WICH country?
luka jugeli ireland, i think one beginning section is the cliffs of moher
Vincent M. Donegal?
i think it's shipstern bluff, Tasmania. same height, and same little wave break on the tube
australia i think
SO PITTED AND SPIT OUT THE BARREL LIKE WAPPPPPISSHHHHH
What I'm thinking is that's what she said.
colder water is heavier molecules closer...packed!
not much though.. water hardly changes volume between 1 and 100 degrees c
taven willard : dork. Go back for your GED
WOW !!!
so old it doesnt exist..
so moon can move the entire ocean but not a little glass water.
Okay I thought ! I don't surf so I don't really know ! :P
AUSSIES!!!
Burst eardrums!!!?
heavyyyy
why did the pineapple cross the road?
mavericks?
nops, it's banks