Just did my 1st real estate shooting. Just had a tripod, wide angle lens and no external flash to use. Pictures came out great except for the windows as it made blinds look black when I did the pull. but not bd for my 1st shooting. your videos really helped out a lot
All I can say is ......WOW. Very informative and in-depth presentation. I was wondering where you were going with this at first and I learn a lot. Thanks so much
This is a good video for people who have mastered Lightroom and Photoshop. You know what your doing and this edit still took 20mins. I will come back to this after I have a better handle on Lr and Ps. Thanks!
Actually, you don't need to be a master of LR or PS to do this. Grab copies of my e-books, in particular #1 (interiors) and #2 (editing) and it will guide you step by step through the process, simplifying it so that you don't need to be an Adobe master, here's a link to all of my REP series: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=series_rw_dp_labf
As a realtor I always had issues with getting the blown out windows fixed... this is a great process... and will save me tons of time shooting & editing! Loved your details & delivery... better than anything else out there... Thanks a Million!
Superb tutorial! Just what I needed - following the flambient technique from start to end will very much help me build and organize my workflow better. Thanks!
The best tutorial on real estate/interiors I've ever seen. Thanks Nathan you've shared it for others. I've mostly used HDR but I'll start to mix it with "flambient" and PS workflow. Thanks again :) Greetings from Poland
This tutorial covered everything I needed to know...I just need to watch more Photoshop tutorials to learn all the shortcuts you're using that you didn't mention that will help quicken the workflow (like you were changing brush sizes on the fly). Thank you Nathan Cool!
Thanks Shirley. You may find my advanced editing e-book useful, which covers a lot of the Photoshop and Lightroom tools and techniques used for editing REP work, at www.amazon.com/dp/B0779PCVWC
@@NathanCoolPhoto Yes! You might be right. I'll need to invest in that book! It looks very comprehensive and detailed in teaching us the techniques and I like all the screen grabs as references. Thank you.
Wow! I'm a videographer who just started doing RE. I was recently asked to do photography as well, but I'm really just a hobbyist with photography. I do a search in TH-cam to start learning and land here? Jackpot! I really enjoyed your presentation style and learned SO much. You've got a new subscriber. Looks like I need to invest training time and $$ in LR/PS now. Thanks for taking the time to produce such a helpful video. Looking forward to learning more.
Thanks for this video and others! I have the same flash....well, it's a Neewer TT680 (E-TTL) and a Canon 6D and a T4i. Getting ready to sell my house and may just spend the time to do the photography myself. I've seen the photos my realty company puts out and I know I can do better
Wow! My kids are selling their house and asked me to take some pictures! I had no idea. Better have them hire a professional. This a great teaching video.
Thank you Nathan for showing me how to tackle a few problems I had today when I work with interior photography and later you had wide my eyes for a few things I do not know on Photoshop that I was doing incorrectly. Thank you for sharing this with us. I really appreciate it.
Hey Nathan. Thanks so much for putting these tutorials up. Have you considered making a video of settings on flashes. I have a Sigma Speedlight and have some issues sometimes. Rich, Serge or you haven't given an in-depth video on these issues. Any common RE troubleshooting videos would be helpful. Especially with Photoshop and LR issues as they relate to RE. Thanks a bunch! keep the videos coming! :)
Hey Nathan, First off thanks for all the great videos!! Very helpful as a beginner in real estate photography. What is your setup for holding the flash to do window pulls? How do activate the shutter when you are away from the camera?
Thanks Michael. This is all done with wireless triggers that are separate for a shutter release pair and the lights, each on their own configs. I show this in-depth in my interiors e-book, which I think would help get you going, here's a link if you want to check that out: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Hi Nathan! Thanks a lot for this graet content! I have a problem, maybe you can help me. When I change the ambient shot to luminosity, colours turn wierd, with a lot of red, I don ' t know how I can fix that. Thank you!
I'd have to see what you're doing in a private session. You can email me for more info if that's something you'd be interested in: Nathan@NathanCoolPhoto.com
You're welcome! WB for REP is a complex topic so I talk about it throughout my REP series, how it varies from interiors to exteriors, when to use AWB and when to use Kelvin, etc. See the interiors, exteriors, and lighting guide books for information on the various conditions, how it's affected, how triggers can also affect this, validation techniques, etc: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=series_rw_dp_labf
Thanks! Sorry, but at this time I don't have any images for public distribution. You can practice though by taking footage right where you live, it doesn't have to be anything fancy, it's just for practice ;)
So good. You and Rich Baum have taught me so much in the last few days of watching through your vids. I only shoot for my own listings and on the side for another agent so I'm definitely a rookie. Never used flash or triggers. Besides the Yongnuo, can you tell me specifically what I need to buy to accomplish this one light strategy? I have no clue how triggers work!
I use Cactus triggers (radio triggers), which is what I recommend. This page here though might help get you some info: www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/content/triggering-remote-flashes
I purchased the new(er) YN560-IV which I believe has the built in transmitter/receiver, right? So am I able to trigger the shutter while statue of liberty-ing with this if I just purchase one trigger to mount on the hot shoe of my camera? Or do I still need two triggers like you show?
Awesome video Nathan. You mentioned your Rove light could do all three window pulls at once. What strobe would you recommend to do your room in 2 shots?
what is the point of using a flash for the window pull as opposed to just exposing properly for the window? Sorry I don't understand what the flash does for it.
Hi Laurie, a darken-mode window pull, using the flash as you mentioned, allows you to quickly add a view without worrying about any ambient that was added during the flash-ambient blending process. I have more information on the entire editing flow, why this is important, and step by step instructions as well in my interiors e-book, which you can check out at www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Thanks! For using LR and PS for real estate photography, I'd suggest e-books #1 and #2 in my REP series. Each includes instructions with screenshots to simplify what's needed. Here's a link to the series if you'd like to check it out: amzn.to/3ixODOi
Excellent tutorial....all I need to do. Could not see the need to bracket 3 shots as I am not going to HDR. Hats off Nathan! PS a question.... mostly I see F values higher than F6.3 for this style of photography. I know the wide angle has a good depth of field.... no need to go to F8?
Could you do a video on window pulls that combines a room that has louvered blinds also and how to get good color outside and non blown out windows ? Thank You
Great channel. Thank you for posting these videos. Thanking of picking up the Rove 600, what is your thought on that for real estate. If you had to purchase again would you still choose the Rove?
I love the Rove. I also have an AD600, which I love having the controls on the side, but it rotates really rough, which bugs me to no end. For the price, for RE, the Rove will work wonders...use it a lot, for big spaces, and also dark colored rooms. I also show some work I do with that in other videos like this one th-cam.com/video/BgtwQ9Dj318/w-d-xo.html
Is there a way of doing the luminosity masking part through gimp? or is there alternative software that I can use to get round this problem? Any advice would be helpful thanks.
The Cactus trigger (Shutter Release) is something I am interested in, can't seem to locate it anywhere, do you have a site where it can be purchased? Looking into the Cactus system for my Sony A7II & doing my research, thanks again for sharing your videos, learned a few tricks.
Thanks for the free tutorials Nathan. Are you using manual flash or TTL ? When you reduced the intensity of the dark tree in the middle window, could you have just reduced the Density slider in the mask properties ? Thanks.
Almost ALL my skills I've learned come from you and Rich Baum. Can't thank you enough for putting all this valuable information out here! Basic question: can you recommend specific light stand and whatever else it needs to attach the speedlight to it? Thanks!
I think that is a great idea! May be cramp in there a list of all basic gear? I just recently found out that you suppose to buy tripod and ballhead separately and while researching the options I got myself completely lost in all the options. I found some budget friendly options for tripods with ballhead attached and can't think why not to go with $70 option rather than these pricier ones. Like this one: a.co/3Qe9BIL
Hello Nathan. I have question about post processing the window pull. I brush window pull in layer mask with soft brush 100 flow and I see that there are leaves from orange tree are double. Why is that? I don't understand why. If there is 100%flow? Best, anja. Btw very best technique flambient. It's very helping your tutorials and book I just read.
Hi Anja, this may help: th-cam.com/video/SyVGasvcl8E/w-d-xo.html But without seeing what you're talking about the next step would be to schedule a private session with me. If you get to that point you can email me at Nathan@NathanCoolPhoto.com for more info.
Hello Nathan. That video doesn't fix my problem. It's very useful. But my problems are moving leaves from trees on windows pulls in photoshop, when I put on darken mode. How and when we can have a personal coaching, and how much would cost? Where I can write? On email?
The next step is a private remote session with me, as I mentioned you can email me for more info on pricing and availability at Nathan@NathanCoolPhoto.com
Hi Nathan, I'm not a new photographer but not so experienced with interior shots like this. My question is, and forgive me if someone also asked and you answered already as I didn't go through every answer, why do you flash the windows separately in what you call window pulls? Thank you.
Hi Nathan love the videos. Just wondering...would a Yongnuo 560 be powerful enough to do the “light pulls” you speak of in your videos? Sorry but I don’t know anything about speed lights and don’t want to spend too much money on the light + remote. Thanks!
Great question. Usually at the farthest point in a room, unless there is a focal point; for instance, if I were shooting a dining room with a kitchen in its background, I'd probably focus on the table's centerpiece. Similar to any kind of photography, focus on the subject, but when in doubt, I do to (near) infinity. At f/8 and say 18mm or 20mm, DOF is deep.
I never use HDR. I always use lights, it's simple, and over time it gets fast, with not just better results, but *predictable* results, consistent on every house I shoot, no matter the conditions. I have more in my interiors e-book to get you started: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
How do you shoot white curtains in front of the window? Window Pull seems to be not possible there because of the curtain is usually white an catches all the flash light and burns out...
Great tutorial Nathan! I've viewed most of your flambiant tutorials, read both of your e-books, and have been practicing your techniques with my RE shoots. I find that I'm taking too many frames and therefore spending too much time on my shoots, so I really want to see if I can put into practice what you offer here. I don't have a flash with the power of your Rove, but I do shoot with a Flashpoint AD200. You said in this tutorial that if you were shooting with your Rove you could have avoided the window pull shots. I'm curious to know how your settings would have changed with the more powerful light? You determined that you needed 1/160 shutter and ISO 100 to get the windows dark with the lower powered flash. So I'm guessing you would have left the ISO at 320 but stayed with the same 1/160 shutter speed? Thanks.
Hi David. It depends on the room and the situation. In the interiors book I cover some of that by describing what to look for in the histogram, and balancing out the ambient artifacts. But you also don't want to use so much light that you get casts. I'm thinking another tutorial would help with more examples on what you mentioned...I put it on my todo list :)
Do you have a list of the equipment you use? Im just starting out -havent even started yet actually, but trying to learn at warp speed for a job Ive been offered with a fledgling realty and while I took a lot of photography in college I feel ill equipped right now and in a panic.....
Just getting into real estate photography. I already have a Nikon D50. Looking to get the minimum equipment necessary. Looking for a Yongnuo speedlite and transmitter that will work with my camera and possibly a rovelight. What do you recommend for a minimum? Also, for your photoshop and lightbox - where do you get that. I can't find a software kit - only a subscription. Thanks so much!
Hi Nathan!! I had been watching your tutorials, and I really find them so usefull I want to ask you somethimg, how do you correct the gray color parts of the ceiling? I do 360 architectural photography and I always made it with hdr, -2,0-2 steps. But... when I merge the images almost always I have trouble with that gray parts from the ceiling. I want to try using a little bit of flash doing a 360 panorama... but I want to know if you a have a tutorial where do you talk about how to correct that issue. Thank you so much for your time.
I've been putting off learning flash for years. It was always the elephant in my photography room. Your vids finally pushed me to go for it. I got a Godox TT685 with X1 trigger for my A7Rii. Was able to test it on a friend's home today. imgur.com/a/jJwJI Still needs a lot of work, but I'll get the hang of it quick. Thank you so much! This means I can now comfortably shoot any hour of the day! Super important and helpful!
This before/ after are important. I would add a smartphone photo to the comparison as well, this will get ridiculously obvious for clients. Some sellers are putting simple and ugly photos made on a phone on their listings. What are they thinking 🤔
Sorry for the late reply. Those OEM TTL speedlights are, IMHO, a waste of money. I have an arsenal of Yangnuos for speelights, and then bigger monolights (other videos on my channel show those). If you're going for speedlights, this is plenty enough, although some have fancy built in triggers for a bit more...I use Cactus triggers...more on that in other videos as well...anyways, check this out: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1086001-REG/yongnuo_yn_560iii_yn_560_iii_speedlite.html
I never used live mode except for videos, so I can't speak to that. But, I never found a need to go above the D610, just couldn't justify the cost for the 810, especially for real estate.
hi, how did you take the photo with the flash without touching the camera and it not connected by the hotshoe? is it connected by bluetooth?sorry for basic question, i'm a beginner
Hi Tara, there are two different triggering setups. I'd recommend getting my e-book on interior real estate photography, which covers that subject in great detail. Here's a link if you'd like to check that out: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
I did 99% of everything in this tutorial that you did, except I forgot to take the one photo with the exposure set for the windows. 1. ambient shot 2. shot with flash 3. I took 4 window pull shots. when I paint my windows, the wall inside the room framing the windows turns dark when my brush hits it. Is it because I forgot to take that one photo with the exposure set for the windows without a flash? Edit: answered my own question reading through the other questions. I need to completely blow out the window frame with the flash so the brush ignores those parts. I think I need to try full power on the flash next time.
how to you manager to keep the camera still while touching it all the time? even with tripod, when you merge multiple photo together, no sharpness lose?
One problem I run into sometimes when trying to get good window pull is reflections of my flash in the windows. I move my flash to all kinds of positions sometimes, but still can't avoid seeing the flash in the glass. If I have several windows, I can usually get it so that one shot has one window looking good and another shot with the other window/s looking good and I use them both. But, I'd like to get them all good in one shot. Is there some kind of trick for getting it right the first time? Thank you!
Simple question.. which light stand are you using with the Speedlight? I like the small footprint of the legs. I have a Cheetah C8 which I am not a fan of.
Hi Jackie, for speedlights, if I'm not using a Monkey clip on my belt (see the Flash Settings video) I just use this cheapo: www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Aluminum-Adjustable-Light-Stand/dp/B003PEUA30
Really want to say Awesome Tutorials, you made me a much better Real Estate Photographer and i can not thank you enough. Just one question, What do you mean by High Power on the flash? I'm new with the whole Flash photography.
If you are shooting real estate pics for a house, do you go to this extent for the less attractive rooms (laundry, bathroom, etc.)? The longer I do this, the more I am convinced that 10 amazing "flambient" shots could outsell 30 mediocre ambient shots. What do you think?
That's something I talk about in my ebook...when to use a 2-stop rule (flambient mostly), or 1-stop rule, or ambient only. www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Newbie question here. It appears you are taking the picture by popping off the off camera flash, but I just noticed you put your hand on the device in your pocket. How are you triggering the shot? I seriously dont understand why you cant trigger the camera with the off camera flash if you can do the reverse. Am I missing something ?
Hi Steve, I'd recommend starting with the basics on this to understand all the underpinnings, gear, and techniques. I provide this in great detail in my REP series. I'd suggest starting with e-book #1 in my REP series and working your way up from there. Here's a link if you'd like to check that out: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=dbs_dp_rwt_sb&binding=kindle_edition
I use a variety of lights and brands so I don't get married to a brand. I also have other lights for various other work, so I just keep a stock of Cactus trigs on hand.
Just subscribed to your channel. I like your presentation more than the other guys on here all the time. Question what am I doing wrong. I tried the several shots and flashed the window but maybe not enough or to much ? I seem to be in darken mode but my windows are not changing at all ? Trying to get the window pull down because selecting each window with a Lasso tool is time consuming and crazy. Trying to cut down my process time. PLEASE HELP. I also would love your opinion on a picture if that Is possible. Thanks BOB
Make sure your window pull is shot so that the window frame is overexposed...you want to blow it out completely...the exterior won't be blown out, so in darken mode the overexposed areas are simply ignored on that layer.
How do you turn the flash on/off directly on your camera? I have to turn off the speedlight. I tried to replicate your estatue of liberty but half of the room was blowed up and the other part, lower, completely dark. Why?
I do that with the TX trigger in the hot shoe. I show this in much greater detail in my interiors book, which should help: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0755KXSL4/
When I open my Lightroom files in Photoshop, the lens profile corrections don't convey. Adobe tells me that's the way it is. How do they work for you, Nathan? They sure seem to work.
I do lens corrections either in OEM software or LR, depending on the case. I mention this throughout my real estate photography book series, in particular the exteriors book shows various options: www.amazon.com/dp/B078YY865F
@@NathanCoolPhoto thank you so much Nathan. Your videos are extremely helpful and I’m so glad I found your channel. I’ve been shooting for 12 years and basically doing everything wrong and I just love your easy and simple approach. I also love that you can have full flexibility over the image to dial-in the look you want. Thx again.
Popular question, tutorial coming soon. In short, no need, D610s easily avoid noise to ISO 800, and higher ISO means easier lighting. Tutorial soon...stay tuned...
This is best the tutorial on flambient technique because these are the kind of problems that we face in the real world. Thanks so much.
Just did my 1st real estate shooting. Just had a tripod, wide angle lens and no external flash to use. Pictures came out great except for the windows as it made blinds look black when I did the pull. but not bd for my 1st shooting. your videos really helped out a lot
I have clients that love my work but that window pull was awesome. I love that. Thank you. Subscribed!
All I can say is ......WOW. Very informative and in-depth presentation. I was wondering where you were going with this at first and I learn a lot. Thanks so much
This is a good video for people who have mastered Lightroom and Photoshop. You know what your doing and this edit still took 20mins. I will come back to this after I have a better handle on Lr and Ps. Thanks!
Actually, you don't need to be a master of LR or PS to do this. Grab copies of my e-books, in particular #1 (interiors) and #2 (editing) and it will guide you step by step through the process, simplifying it so that you don't need to be an Adobe master, here's a link to all of my REP series: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=series_rw_dp_labf
As a realtor I always had issues with getting the blown out windows fixed... this is a great process... and will save me tons of time shooting & editing! Loved your details & delivery... better than anything else out there... Thanks a Million!
Thank you very much. Your tutorials are priceless!!! You have helped me so much.
I'm a builder trying to learn techniques to better photograph my work. This was really helpful. Thanks.
Superb tutorial! Just what I needed - following the flambient technique from start to end will very much help me build and organize my workflow better. Thanks!
The best tutorial on real estate/interiors I've ever seen. Thanks Nathan you've shared it for others. I've mostly used HDR but I'll start to mix it with "flambient" and PS workflow. Thanks again :) Greetings from Poland
I love this guy. thanks Nathan!
I do a lot of interior and property photography and this is an excellent video to show different methods. I will be taking on board these tips
I learn so much through your videos - a BIG thank you Nathan!
This tutorial covered everything I needed to know...I just need to watch more Photoshop tutorials to learn all the shortcuts you're using that you didn't mention that will help quicken the workflow (like you were changing brush sizes on the fly). Thank you Nathan Cool!
Thanks Shirley. You may find my advanced editing e-book useful, which covers a lot of the Photoshop and Lightroom tools and techniques used for editing REP work, at www.amazon.com/dp/B0779PCVWC
@@NathanCoolPhoto Yes! You might be right. I'll need to invest in that book! It looks very comprehensive and detailed in teaching us the techniques and I like all the screen grabs as references. Thank you.
I love the way you project the knowledge didn't eave me with a single question i truly appreciate your help!
Killer instruction vids Nate! I like the pace you go along at... very fluid and thorough.
Thanks for sharing Nate - really appreciate the time and thought process going through your tutorial to make it easier to pick-up. Keep them coming!
YOU. ARE. AMAZING. .... this is a fantastic info video. WOW!
I am newly subscribed to you and your vids are giving me a lot of insight on real estatephotography.. great job
Wow! I'm a videographer who just started doing RE. I was recently asked to do photography as well, but I'm really just a hobbyist with photography. I do a search in TH-cam to start learning and land here? Jackpot! I really enjoyed your presentation style and learned SO much. You've got a new subscriber. Looks like I need to invest training time and $$ in LR/PS now. Thanks for taking the time to produce such a helpful video. Looking forward to learning more.
Thank you so much Mr cool you are the best
You did an excellent job of demonstrating you process. Thank you so much.
Thanks for this video and others! I have the same flash....well, it's a Neewer TT680 (E-TTL) and a Canon 6D and a T4i. Getting ready to sell my house and may just spend the time to do the photography myself. I've seen the photos my realty company puts out and I know I can do better
Wow! My kids are selling their house and asked me to take some pictures! I had no idea. Better have them hire a professional. This a great teaching video.
Like your work, Nath
Thank you Nathan! Very helpful
Thank you Nathan for showing me how to tackle a few problems I had today when I work with interior photography and later you had wide my eyes for a few things I do not know on Photoshop that I was doing incorrectly. Thank you for sharing this with us. I really appreciate it.
Great video Nathan. Thank you for posting.
Excellent video!! Trying to do real estate photography and this helped me tons!! Thank You
Nathan - love the video, how are you firing off the camera when you stand in the view and pop the flash?
Very informative and in depth. Gonna go play with my flashes later! Thanks so much
Hey Nathan. Thanks so much for putting these tutorials up. Have you considered making a video of settings on flashes. I have a Sigma Speedlight and have some issues sometimes. Rich, Serge or you haven't given an in-depth video on these issues. Any common RE troubleshooting videos would be helpful. Especially with Photoshop and LR issues as they relate to RE. Thanks a bunch! keep the videos coming! :)
Amazing stuff thank you Nathan
Thank you for sharing! Great video
Hey Nathan, First off thanks for all the great videos!! Very helpful as a beginner in real estate photography. What is your setup for holding the flash to do window pulls? How do activate the shutter when you are away from the camera?
Thanks Michael. This is all done with wireless triggers that are separate for a shutter release pair and the lights, each on their own configs. I show this in-depth in my interiors e-book, which I think would help get you going, here's a link if you want to check that out: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Hi Nathan! Thanks a lot for this graet content! I have a problem, maybe you can help me. When I change the ambient shot to luminosity, colours turn wierd, with a lot of red, I don ' t know how I can fix that. Thank you!
I'd have to see what you're doing in a private session. You can email me for more info if that's something you'd be interested in: Nathan@NathanCoolPhoto.com
Thanks Nathan! Did you talk about WB at all? Were they just auto wb? Or were you shooting something in. Particular?
You're welcome! WB for REP is a complex topic so I talk about it throughout my REP series, how it varies from interiors to exteriors, when to use AWB and when to use Kelvin, etc. See the interiors, exteriors, and lighting guide books for information on the various conditions, how it's affected, how triggers can also affect this, validation techniques, etc: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=series_rw_dp_labf
Nathan Cool Photo thanks brother I’ll check it out now!
I hope I can remember all this... Good info. Thanks!
Love the video. Any way you can make these photos available to practice with?
Thanks! Sorry, but at this time I don't have any images for public distribution. You can practice though by taking footage right where you live, it doesn't have to be anything fancy, it's just for practice ;)
So good. You and Rich Baum have taught me so much in the last few days of watching through your vids. I only shoot for my own listings and on the side for another agent so I'm definitely a rookie. Never used flash or triggers. Besides the Yongnuo, can you tell me specifically what I need to buy to accomplish this one light strategy? I have no clue how triggers work!
I use Cactus triggers (radio triggers), which is what I recommend. This page here though might help get you some info: www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/content/triggering-remote-flashes
I purchased the new(er) YN560-IV which I believe has the built in transmitter/receiver, right? So am I able to trigger the shutter while statue of liberty-ing with this if I just purchase one trigger to mount on the hot shoe of my camera? Or do I still need two triggers like you show?
Excellent! I've subscribed! Great tips and very well presented.
Thanks!
Awesome video Nathan. You mentioned your Rove light could do all three window pulls at once. What strobe would you recommend to do your room in 2 shots?
Thanks Eric. There is a newer video on this that may help, see: th-cam.com/video/iBiSkTcDLBs/w-d-xo.html
what is the point of using a flash for the window pull as opposed to just exposing properly for the window? Sorry I don't understand what the flash does for it.
Hi Laurie, a darken-mode window pull, using the flash as you mentioned, allows you to quickly add a view without worrying about any ambient that was added during the flash-ambient blending process. I have more information on the entire editing flow, why this is important, and step by step instructions as well in my interiors e-book, which you can check out at www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Do you have a video showing your photoshop screen setting? I want to put the history panel where you have it. Thank you. Your videos are great.
That's just part of the default essentials layout in PS. You can drag windows around and dock them as well.
Thank you.
Hello great video! What would you suggest fir learning about PS/LR so I could get up to speed to where this doesn’t sound like Greek?
Thanks! For using LR and PS for real estate photography, I'd suggest e-books #1 and #2 in my REP series. Each includes instructions with screenshots to simplify what's needed. Here's a link to the series if you'd like to check it out: amzn.to/3ixODOi
Awesome Tips Man.....
Excellent tutorial....all I need to do. Could not see the need to bracket 3 shots as I am not going to HDR. Hats off Nathan! PS a question.... mostly I see F values higher than F6.3 for this style of photography. I know the wide angle has a good depth of field.... no need to go to F8?
If using speedlights, f/8 is pushing it. I talk about all of that balance in more depth in this video: th-cam.com/video/cl8QXeH2hac/w-d-xo.html
Could you do a video on window pulls that combines a room that has louvered blinds also and how to get good color outside and non blown out windows ?
Thank You
the technique works the same
How did you determine your shutter iso aperature settings on your base shot?
Getting a lot of viewers asking that as well...tutorial on that coming sometime soon.
Great channel. Thank you for posting these videos. Thanking of picking up the Rove 600, what is your thought on that for real estate. If you had to purchase again would you still choose the Rove?
I love the Rove. I also have an AD600, which I love having the controls on the side, but it rotates really rough, which bugs me to no end. For the price, for RE, the Rove will work wonders...use it a lot, for big spaces, and also dark colored rooms. I also show some work I do with that in other videos like this one th-cam.com/video/BgtwQ9Dj318/w-d-xo.html
Is there a way of doing the luminosity masking part through gimp? or is there alternative software that I can use to get round this problem? Any advice would be helpful thanks.
Not sure about gimp, but for $10/mo for LR and PS, it's a low investment for the return you get for any photog biz ;)
The Cactus trigger (Shutter Release) is something I am interested in, can't seem to locate it anywhere, do you have a site where it can be purchased? Looking into the Cactus system for my Sony A7II & doing my research, thanks again for sharing your videos, learned a few tricks.
www.amazon.com/Cactus-V5-Wireless-Flash-Trigger/dp/B005DFI5ZY
Thanks for the free tutorials Nathan. Are you using manual flash or TTL ? When you reduced the intensity of the dark tree in the middle window, could you have just reduced the Density slider in the mask properties ? Thanks.
Manual always, I want the control...not the camera and lights to figure it out.
Almost ALL my skills I've learned come from you and Rich Baum. Can't thank you enough for putting all this valuable information out here!
Basic question: can you recommend specific light stand and whatever else it needs to attach the speedlight to it?
Thanks!
Hi Leshtukov, there are a lot of options. I think perhaps a tutorial video on that would help. Let me put that on my todo list.
I think that is a great idea! May be cramp in there a list of all basic gear? I just recently found out that you suppose to buy tripod and ballhead separately and while researching the options I got myself completely lost in all the options.
I found some budget friendly options for tripods with ballhead attached and can't think why not to go with $70 option rather than these pricier ones.
Like this one: a.co/3Qe9BIL
I have more info on the various gear options in my interiors book, which I think would help: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
This was very informative, thank you mate.
Hello Nathan. I have question about post processing the window pull. I brush window pull in layer mask with soft brush 100 flow and I see that there are leaves from orange tree are double. Why is that? I don't understand why. If there is 100%flow?
Best, anja.
Btw very best technique flambient. It's very helping your tutorials and book I just read.
Hi Anja, this may help: th-cam.com/video/SyVGasvcl8E/w-d-xo.html But without seeing what you're talking about the next step would be to schedule a private session with me. If you get to that point you can email me at Nathan@NathanCoolPhoto.com for more info.
Hello Nathan. That video doesn't fix my problem. It's very useful. But my problems are moving leaves from trees on windows pulls in photoshop, when I put on darken mode. How and when we can have a personal coaching, and how much would cost?
Where I can write? On email?
The next step is a private remote session with me, as I mentioned you can email me for more info on pricing and availability at Nathan@NathanCoolPhoto.com
Hi Nathan, I'm not a new photographer but not so experienced with interior shots like this. My question is, and forgive me if someone also asked and you answered already as I didn't go through every answer, why do you flash the windows separately in what you call window pulls? Thank you.
Great video, thank you.
Hi Nathan love the videos. Just wondering...would a Yongnuo 560 be powerful enough to do the “light pulls” you speak of in your videos? Sorry but I don’t know anything about speed lights and don’t want to spend too much money on the light + remote. Thanks!
Hi Ryan, it can in some circumstances. I talk about it in more detail in my interiors book: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Great Video thanks for sharing.
Great tutorial!!. May I ask you where do you place your focusing point?. Thanks in advance.
Great question. Usually at the farthest point in a room, unless there is a focal point; for instance, if I were shooting a dining room with a kitchen in its background, I'd probably focus on the table's centerpiece. Similar to any kind of photography, focus on the subject, but when in doubt, I do to (near) infinity. At f/8 and say 18mm or 20mm, DOF is deep.
I appreciate your prompt reply!!!. Thanks.
Im just starting out and love your helpful tutorials. For someone on a budget, what type of lighting setup should I get? I have a Sony a6500. thanks
Hi Jonathan, that's a broad question, but I break it down in my interiors book at www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
ok thanks
Nathan would you say you normally work like this vs bracket photos and putting them into an HDR in lightroom?
I never use HDR. I always use lights, it's simple, and over time it gets fast, with not just better results, but *predictable* results, consistent on every house I shoot, no matter the conditions. I have more in my interiors e-book to get you started: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
How do you shoot white curtains in front of the window? Window Pull seems to be not possible there because of the curtain is usually white an catches all the flash light and burns out...
If you do window pulls correctly then this won't be an issue. See th-cam.com/video/iHC2AHEGCJ4/w-d-xo.html
@@NathanCoolPhoto many thanks 😊 can’t wait to try this out… I bought your book 📖 but I haven’t looked at it yet 🫣🫣
Great tutorial Nathan! I've viewed most of your flambiant tutorials, read both of your e-books, and have been practicing your techniques with my RE shoots. I find that I'm taking too many frames and therefore spending too much time on my shoots, so I really want to see if I can put into practice what you offer here. I don't have a flash with the power of your Rove, but I do shoot with a Flashpoint AD200. You said in this tutorial that if you were shooting with your Rove you could have avoided the window pull shots. I'm curious to know how your settings would have changed with the more powerful light? You determined that you needed 1/160 shutter and ISO 100 to get the windows dark with the lower powered flash. So I'm guessing you would have left the ISO at 320 but stayed with the same 1/160 shutter speed? Thanks.
Hi David. It depends on the room and the situation. In the interiors book I cover some of that by describing what to look for in the histogram, and balancing out the ambient artifacts. But you also don't want to use so much light that you get casts. I'm thinking another tutorial would help with more examples on what you mentioned...I put it on my todo list :)
Do you have a list of the equipment you use? Im just starting out -havent even started yet actually, but trying to learn at warp speed for a job Ive been offered with a fledgling realty and while I took a lot of photography in college I feel ill equipped right now and in a panic.....
Hi Michelle, I cover that throughout my various e-books, you can check the out at www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=series_rw_dp_labf
Just getting into real estate photography. I already have a Nikon D50. Looking to get the minimum equipment necessary. Looking for a Yongnuo speedlite and transmitter that will work with my camera and possibly a rovelight. What do you recommend for a minimum? Also, for your photoshop and lightbox - where do you get that. I can't find a software kit - only a subscription. Thanks so much!
All that and more in my latest book: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Hi Nathan!! I had been watching your tutorials, and I really find them so usefull I want to ask you somethimg, how do you correct the gray color parts of the ceiling?
I do 360 architectural photography and I always made it with hdr, -2,0-2 steps. But... when I merge the images almost always I have trouble with that gray parts from the ceiling.
I want to try using a little bit of flash doing a 360 panorama... but I want to know if you a have a tutorial where do you talk about how to correct that issue. Thank you so much for your time.
Hi Pilar, not sure what you mean by grey parts of the ceiling, this though may be what you're looking for: th-cam.com/video/pXK3NbvQ8PU/w-d-xo.html
I've been putting off learning flash for years. It was always the elephant in my photography room.
Your vids finally pushed me to go for it. I got a Godox TT685 with X1 trigger for my A7Rii. Was able to test it on a friend's home today.
imgur.com/a/jJwJI Still needs a lot of work, but I'll get the hang of it quick.
Thank you so much! This means I can now comfortably shoot any hour of the day! Super important and helpful!
This before/ after are important. I would add a smartphone photo to the comparison as well, this will get ridiculously obvious for clients.
Some sellers are putting simple and ugly photos made on a phone on their listings. What are they thinking 🤔
What kind of flash do you suggest? Does it have to be a $300 Canon Speedlight?
Sorry for the late reply. Those OEM TTL speedlights are, IMHO, a waste of money. I have an arsenal of Yangnuos for speelights, and then bigger monolights (other videos on my channel show those). If you're going for speedlights, this is plenty enough, although some have fancy built in triggers for a bit more...I use Cactus triggers...more on that in other videos as well...anyways, check this out: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1086001-REG/yongnuo_yn_560iii_yn_560_iii_speedlite.html
Does your d610 have exposure preview in live mode? Do you see any reason to use a d810 vs d610 for real estate. Thank you so much for the videos!
I never used live mode except for videos, so I can't speak to that. But, I never found a need to go above the D610, just couldn't justify the cost for the 810, especially for real estate.
hi, how did you take the photo with the flash without touching the camera and it not connected by the hotshoe? is it connected by bluetooth?sorry for basic question, i'm a beginner
Hi Tara, there are two different triggering setups. I'd recommend getting my e-book on interior real estate photography, which covers that subject in great detail. Here's a link if you'd like to check that out: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Would you please provide the link to the video where you shoot the high ceiling. Thanks!
Is this it? th-cam.com/video/AfX_l3p9ojo/w-d-xo.html
Probably. I didn't think it was possible to shoot a room with a high vaulted ceiling with speedlights.
And, wasn't this done w/o a liveview LCD screen? Pure DSLR?? if so, incredibly impressive
I did 99% of everything in this tutorial that you did, except I forgot to take the one photo with the exposure set for the windows.
1. ambient shot
2. shot with flash
3. I took 4 window pull shots.
when I paint my windows, the wall inside the room framing the windows turns dark when my brush hits it.
Is it because I forgot to take that one photo with the exposure set for the windows without a flash?
Edit: answered my own question reading through the other questions. I need to completely blow out the window frame with the flash so the brush ignores those parts. I think I need to try full power on the flash next time.
Yep :)
Thank you so much for this video! So helpful
how to you manager to keep the camera still while touching it all the time? even with tripod, when you merge multiple photo together, no sharpness lose?
Good tripod and head, and if needed auto-align in PS. I describe that in more detail in my interiors e-book at www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Awesome
One problem I run into sometimes when trying to get good window pull is reflections of my flash in the windows. I move my flash to all kinds of positions sometimes, but still can't avoid seeing the flash in the glass. If I have several windows, I can usually get it so that one shot has one window looking good and another shot with the other window/s looking good and I use them both. But, I'd like to get them all good in one shot. Is there some kind of trick for getting it right the first time?
Thank you!
Try lower flash power, just enough to over-expose the window frame.
Nathan Cool Photo Thank you! I'll try that. I appreciate your help and all the awesome videos you do.
Thank you mate, much appreciated and very helpful
very nice
Simple question.. which light stand are you using with the Speedlight? I like the small footprint of the legs.
I have a Cheetah C8 which I am not a fan of.
Hi Jackie, for speedlights, if I'm not using a Monkey clip on my belt (see the Flash Settings video) I just use this cheapo: www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Aluminum-Adjustable-Light-Stand/dp/B003PEUA30
Great video Nathan - thanks for the info. What Yongnuo are you using?
Thanks Carmen. I list all my gear with links as well in my interiors book at www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Very nice job Nathan. I really need to start doing more flambient shots to speed up my process. Do you find F6.3 is enough depth of field?
Really want to say Awesome Tutorials, you made me a much better Real Estate Photographer and i can not thank you enough. Just one question, What do you mean by High Power on the flash? I'm new with the whole Flash photography.
th-cam.com/video/BgtwQ9Dj318/w-d-xo.html
If you are shooting real estate pics for a house, do you go to this extent for the less attractive rooms (laundry, bathroom, etc.)? The longer I do this, the more I am convinced that 10 amazing "flambient" shots could outsell 30 mediocre ambient shots. What do you think?
That's something I talk about in my ebook...when to use a 2-stop rule (flambient mostly), or 1-stop rule, or ambient only. www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Thanks for this video and others 🙏
What kind of lens do you use for real estate photoshoot?
Thanks Ava. It depends, but I discuss all the gear I use and recommend, and why, in my interiors e-book at www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Newbie question here. It appears you are taking the picture by popping off the off camera flash, but I just noticed you put your hand on the device in your pocket. How are you triggering the shot? I seriously dont understand why you cant trigger the camera with the off camera flash if you can do the reverse. Am I missing something ?
Hi Steve, I'd recommend starting with the basics on this to understand all the underpinnings, gear, and techniques. I provide this in great detail in my REP series. I'd suggest starting with e-book #1 in my REP series and working your way up from there. Here's a link if you'd like to check that out: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=dbs_dp_rwt_sb&binding=kindle_edition
You use the Yongnuo flash, but not the Yongnuo trigger? Why do you like the Cactus better?
I use a variety of lights and brands so I don't get married to a brand. I also have other lights for various other work, so I just keep a stock of Cactus trigs on hand.
Just subscribed to your channel. I like your presentation more than the other guys on here all the time. Question what am I doing wrong. I tried the several shots and flashed the window but maybe not enough or to much ? I seem to be in darken mode but my windows are not changing at all ? Trying to get the window pull down because selecting each window with a Lasso tool is time consuming and crazy. Trying to cut down my process time. PLEASE HELP. I also would love your opinion on a picture if that Is possible.
Thanks BOB
Make sure your window pull is shot so that the window frame is overexposed...you want to blow it out completely...the exterior won't be blown out, so in darken mode the overexposed areas are simply ignored on that layer.
Significant info........
What light would you recommend for starting out Real estate photography
Depends on what all you want to do and where you want to go. I break down various options in my interiors book: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
love this
How do you turn the flash on/off directly on your camera? I have to turn off the speedlight.
I tried to replicate your estatue of liberty but half of the room was blowed up and the other part, lower, completely dark. Why?
I do that with the TX trigger in the hot shoe. I show this in much greater detail in my interiors book, which should help: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0755KXSL4/
Is this also possible with the selftimer mode?.. as i only have to triggers 🙄
It's possible, but for pro work it would take way too long. And later, adding more lights would be an issue.
When I open my Lightroom files in Photoshop, the lens profile corrections don't convey. Adobe tells me that's the way it is. How do they work for you, Nathan? They sure seem to work.
I do lens corrections either in OEM software or LR, depending on the case. I mention this throughout my real estate photography book series, in particular the exteriors book shows various options: www.amazon.com/dp/B078YY865F
Can you post a link to the light please.
That video is rather old, but this should help amzn.to/3UnRGuD
@@NathanCoolPhoto thank you so much Nathan. Your videos are extremely helpful and I’m so glad I found your channel.
I’ve been shooting for 12 years and basically doing everything wrong and I just love your easy and simple approach. I also love that you can have full flexibility over the image to dial-in the look you want. Thx again.
Why ISO 320 and not lower for less noise?
Popular question, tutorial coming soon. In short, no need, D610s easily avoid noise to ISO 800, and higher ISO means easier lighting. Tutorial soon...stay tuned...
Okay, just watched your newer tutorial. Super informative. Thank You!
How can I learn to work with photoshop?
Hi, what settings are the flash on please
It varies, but here's my tutorial on that: th-cam.com/video/tK5FQdTr-fA/w-d-xo.html
Superb