I went to look at a used 2018 Ford F-150. The dealership doc fee was $899. The "accessories" totaled $1500 (+taxes). I told them I did not want those accessories and they said those are included on all the cars they sell and were essentially required. They told me the vehicle was priced to accommodate the condition of the vehicle and were being up front about issues, yet I found something wrong with it within the first minute of sitting inside the vehicle and they were aware of it. They insisted I ignore the broken item and talk numbers anyway. After they gave me all their numbers the price of the vehicle was $5000 over their list price. Granted I know some were taxes/tags/registration. My point is they would not even work with me on price and fixing items because they knew they would get a sucker on the next person interested in the truck.
If you buy a new car you have at least 3yr36,000 mile warranty and the VSC runs concurrent with your factory warranty. So if you buy a 5 year extended warranty you only benefit for 2 years of it.
Just looked at leasing a Stinger GT1 and asked the dealer in FL to be upfront with all parameters including the money factor. They emailed me all that information and then the salesperson called to tell me they were marking up the price by $4500 to recoup losses from low-volume selling in the current market. I asked why that wasn't reflected on their website, and his response was, "Kia designs our website." I don't think that's true because Kia dealer websites are highly variable in appearance. I told him the car has been on his lot for just over 90 days and to text me in two months went it's still on the lot and he is willing to go with MSRP. This is despite me being a Kia customer for the past 3 years and being willing to finance through KIa Finance again. Customer retention concepts are out the door now!
I love my KIA and hate my dealer. Wanted to purchase a new Telluride nightfall edition. Not a cheap car. The dealer made it so difficult I just walked out with him following me out. Nothing pleasant about the process.
I give notice to a salesperson they get one chance to give me their price out the door. Not playing tricks. Know the value and msrp. Know the market fair price and have finance set up. There is always another dealership online now. Stand by your statement and walk out if need be. They always call when I get home.
There may have been a handful of issues with carvana and others like them however car dealers rip people off constantly. I have witnessed someone trade their vehicle in, go home with a car only to have the dealer call and say bring the car back you weren't approved however, the persons trade in was already gone! I have seen a dealer selling vehicle he knew was crap to a young girl. The car died a couple days later and all the dealer would say to her was Oh well make the payment or get sued. So, while some want you to believe that going to a dealer means you won't have to deal with things like you may with carvana and others like them, there are plenty of issues with dealerships as well. So, be aware of both types of purchasing
14:22 - As an attorney, I have two opinions on the Dealer's contract of you have to pay 2 months v. the Sales Agreement. At this point we can all agree the Dealer is acting as an agent of the finance company so the Dealer is technically binding both entities to the deal. 1. My first thought was which contract was signed first? If the Dealer's contract was signed first, then the Finance company will overrule with the "No prepay penalty" and the Buyer could easily argue that the clause that usually says "All parties agree that there is no other contract" will essentially override the previous contract signed minutes earlier. 2. My second thought is when there is a contract that conflicts, its held against the drafter of the contract - not the other party, thus the Buyer will prevail here for not paying. 3. Based on my theories of #1-2, the Buyer will prevail in Court, or it will unenforceable. 4. One could argue that the Dealership is creating fraud against the Finance company, and the Dealer should be in jail for Finance fraud.
I haven't bought a car from a dealership in over 30 yrs . . . and I have absolutely NO recollection of the process. Now - I am ready to purchase a new car from a dealership and I will be paying cash. What is the best way to simplify this process. Ideally . . . agree on an OTD price . . . pull out the ole checkbook, write the check . . . and take the keys and scoot. . . . ? ? ? ?
@@AtomicBananana Ironically - it ended up a lot like my rather sarcastic question above. My dealing with the salesman was gr8. I told him the model I was interested, he showed me a few of the features, I decided on what I wanted . . . he showed me what he had with those features, I picked a color I liked . . we test drove, went into his office did the basic paperwork . . I came back the next day to pick up and dealt with the (hardsell manager). I proceeded to say no, no, no . . to all the tricky gimmick add-ons, pulled out my cashier check that I had brought with me and he handed me the keys. I got a really good deal. They were having a President's Day sale and a Valentines Day $$-off gimmick . . and I got it for $2500 below sticker.
Great video I appreciate all that you guys do. Kimberly teased at the beginning of the video about buy-rate but never elaborated or explained best practices, etc. for instance as a consumer if I asked a finance manager what the buy rate is would they legally have to divulge that information? How would I as a consumer find that out? What negotiating tactic could a consumer use? I would love for her to offer this. Perhaps there was another video on this that I missed if that’s the case please kindly direct me to it. Thank you
No, they do not have to disclose it. And most definitely will not disclose it because that is the private rate between the dealership and the bank. The bank is essentially saying "thanks for bringing me a customer, this is the lowest rate I will accept" and now the finance manager will try to put on couple of points on top of that rate as extra earnings for the dealership. The best way to know what a fair rate is, is to go to your bank or credit union and see what rates they offer you for the amount you want to finance and compare that to ehat the dealership offers you
Last year I wanted to return my leased Subaru to the dealership where I originally leased it. They wanted a $1,000.00 return fee. I ended up keeping the car and writing a check for the balance owned on the car. I definitely think I did the right thing. Oh, I have another Subaru I released through the same dealership and did the same thing. I have two relatively reliable cars and no car payments? Lastly my two Subaru vehicles have gone up in value!!!
First rule: before you sign anything, always be ready to walk out! Yes Sir, that is my way of thinking! In Quebec, Canada, we can consult a registry (RDPRM) to learn if a loan was inscribed to that vehicle!!!
So proud of your extended service contract, 6mos later you raised the price 20%. I always have to remember I'm listening to car salemen. Instead of selling YOUR PLAN to help the consumer, how about just telling them that the same companies will sell direct to the comsumer without a middleman saving the consumer hundreds if not thousands!
Why are the regulators not stepping in, and stopping this? If a dealer is pulling this stuff, can they be prosecuted? If the dealers start getting fined, they will stop it.
If the F&I salesperson is too pushy or just makes you feel uncomfortable, just get up and walk out, or better yet, accept everything they offer, then call the next week and cancel all of it, nothing pisses them off more than having to return all of that profit!
We were going to pay the car off early anyway - we cancelled next day. They make you wait 90-days, but we got our price, cancelled extras and refinanced immediately after those were credited back. They lost a customer and all profits. We should have walked out, but we really wanted this particular car - idiots! So much for dealers wanting family business.
I was at a dealership just looking. I let them go through their tactics in the office. I decided I wasn't buying a car that day. As I was walking to my car they chased after me and as I was pulling off he also was still trying to get me to come back in. Man he was acting like he was desperate.. How dare he chase a customer after they were pulling out to go out if the dealership.
I just spoke to a Lexus dealership about factory odering an NX350h, and was given a quote of $2500- 3k above MSRP. Was told that it didn't have anything to do with the chip shortage but that this is going to be the norm when buying a high end vehicle from now on. I said no thanks. I'd rather donate the extra markup than give it to those vultures.
Dealerships could not pull off these "magic tricks" if the consumer was more aware of how the tricks are performed. Kudos to the YAA team for arming the consumer with the verbal judo to develop self respect and to protect.
Interesting video. I was shopping today for a Kia Telluride. One dealership didn't have one like I wanted, but they had some on the way. Problem is, the cars on the lot have some BS protection pkgs , adding $5k to the price. So, the cars in transit do not have these BS pkgs, but I don't have the option to buy w/o them. I can buy one before it arrives, but they WILL add the BS and I have no choice in the matter. Almost criminal, in my mind. The problem I have is that I have to have a car asap, there are only so many dealers, and a 2020 Telluride sells very quick after hitting the lot. Unfortunately, you can be well prepared with knowledge, and willing to work hard in negotiating, but the dealers hold the cards, right now, and they know it. (A little added info... I saw one at 1030am today, left eat lunch and visit another dealer. I called the first dealer back at 2:30 to arrange a test drive and probably buy... car already sold. It's tough times for people who need a car, especially if they are selective, at all)
What I'm running into is the dealership won't negotiate down from the MSRP they are offering more for my trade than I paid for it so that helps. But I'm working to get my payment the same or less than I'm paying now.
Thank you YAA for the education resulting in verifiable empowerment, kindness and encouragement. I will try to pay this forward to others. Best regards Marie Carlton
I just went to order a 2022 Subaru Crosstrek the car price was &30,650 went to put down deposit sales manger gives me paper work to sign and now it is $32,750 plus a $500.00 processing fee ? I took my check and walked out .
Discount Refund Agreement. In Nevada, Ford called it Red Carpet Lease. I’d assume as if you’re walking down the red carpet and you can get into another Ford fairly easily to get out of the lease.
When shopping know what vehicle you want, know what the price should be from auto trader or kelley blue book. Get pre approved from your bank or credit union. Test drive the vehicle, pull a car fax yourself and have it inspected if it is used. Talk about price. If you do not like deal walk away. Try not to buy extras in finance department.
Getting pre-approved is a good idea, but often times manufacture's financing is just as good, if not better. When we bought our Subaru last year they (Subaru) were giving 1.9% for up to 72 months for anyone with credit score of 700 or higher.
We have to hire a lawyer to understand the language on these contracts.. The power is in your 🙌. Be a prudent consumer. Would you please do a video with Kimberly only on the Finance portion only.. This was a informative video🚘
We have seen these car shortages before. Not on an industry wide basis but I remember the days back in the late 70s or early 80s when you couldn't get a Honda.
The original, dealer, State approved, contract should always take precedence over any addendum that a dealer adds to it. An addendum is something "IN ADDITION TO". So the original contract that is state-approved should always went out. I think we may start seeing some consumer start to sue these dealers in the next few years.
In Most states that is likely true. The case mentioned, was the buyer was asked to sign a side agreement. In that case you are likely creating another contract that you are bound by. Some states ,ay actually bar side agreements. The bottom line as suggested in the video is "walk out" if they pull that on you
My local new car dealers offer financing through the local Credit Unions at the same interest rate as I get by directly using the credit union myself. I assume the dealership makes some kind of money on the arrangements which is fine with me. Because I'm paying a fair interest rate. Years ago I always arranged my own financing unless the dealer could beat it. But now I get the same rate as I would by going to the credit union myself and it's more convenient.
About to factory order! I've been finding out they don't actually order the cars, they just get automatically allocated them by the manufacturer anyway? Also, some require $500-1000 deposit, and some don't. I wonder what else I don't know (yet)?
@@user5871 I've seen that this week the sale people don't even know when they're coming. They might see an allocation. But they can also get some that they had no idea they where coming.
I once had a car with significant front end frame damage that was restored. Years later I went to Carmax to see if they would buy it. They did a Carfax report and there wasn't any info at all about the significant damage history. I was shocked. (I didn't sell it to them)
My plan was to wait to purchase a new truck but I did not get the warm fuzzy feeling from you guys that the price would be any better next year, since I was able to buy employee pricing I did order one from DaveB sells chevy, his dealership does not charge the MPA if you order plus I got my GM discount. After seeing some of the used car prices it was worth it for me to spend a couple of extra grand to get a vehicle with no miles as apposed to spending 45 grand on one with 60 thousand miles.
Anyone who buys a new car,truck or anything must know that they decrease in value significantly as soon as you drive them off the lot. Dealers see buyers like you as suckers.
@Vona Kenyon No anyone that spends new car prices on used cars with a bunch of miles are suckers. I keep my vehicles for many many years so I get my moneys worth out of them. Like my 99 Silverado with 180k miles (bought new) and my suburban with 145K miles.( bought used from coworker) I will more then likely (if it holds up) get another 10 years out of this truck. So everyone has there own circumstances you cant just lump people in one comment
To avoid F&I I go in and get a purchase agreement and take it to my bank (who I have already been pre-approved) and get a check then go back to the dealer and swap the check for the car. Easy peasy.
@nostudion1037 once I choose the car I want I ask the salesman for a purchase order including all taxes. I take it to my bank and they cut me a check, I go back to the dealer and buy the car.
@@nostudion1037 I am financing through my bank but as far as the dealer is concerned I am paying cash out right. The purchase order is an out the door cash price.
When I bought my used car almost 3 yrs ago i pd some down and put the bal on my credit card @9.9%. I pay as much or as little as I want each mo. Almost pd off.
15:46 This kind of reminds me if the lazy gas stations during covid that didn’t want to clean their bathrooms so they closed them. I refused to buy gas from them.
This is incredibly insightful! Thank you so much for providing this information. It truly lifts the vail so that honest customers can just buy an honest product. Absolutely wonderful!
I am not sure YAA has ever discussed this, but what are some tips when you are going to flat out pay for the car all at once? No financing involved, no trade in's involved, just - I have the money for the car i want, this makes things much much easier of a car buying process at the dealership. I plan on purchasing a 2022 Toyota GR86 Premium model, which comes out in December according to Toyota. I know what the MSRP is on the vehicle and i also know there will be some taxes and fees, which i don't know how much that part will be. But back to my initial question after knowing all i have said thus far, when paying in full, are there any questions i need to ask, anything i need to be careful of when i do in fact make the purchase with this method of car buying? Do they have have any secrets i won't be aware of?
Not sure if you bought a car yet but I bought a Toyota last month. I put down a deposit and chose the exact car I wanted and I told them if they put dealer add ons or try to mark up above msrp then it’s a no deal for me and they agreed. The finance manager will try to sell you stuff but other than that there are document fees around $200 and sales tax is paid later at the DMV.
They have said many times, NEVER tell anyone you are paying cash until the deal is done. Dealers make money on financing and want you to borrow from them. If you say up front you are paying cash they will not negotiate on anything.
@@Once800- Finance for the car. Then 7-10 days later either mail a check, or walk into whichever lender it is you borrowed from, and make the early payoff amount. It’ll be a major low blow to the dealerships profits from the products they try and force upon you. And you’ll save a bit of money on interest by only paying 7-10 days of interest vs 30-40 days etc.
I wish that there is a way to let more people join this group which will help passing your valuable message. Im a daily follower and im in the market for a ram truck and trying to hold myself from buying one.
I bought a 2019 rav 4 xle and the financial manager would not budge on the extended warranty cost, I asked to work with someone else and went from 35.00 a month to 16.00 a month.
The salesman from Hyundai Of El cajon CA tried to put me in a Jeep that their words “ I was approved for JEEP “ he showed me and I immediately say NO !!!! I didn’t even bother to test drive it.. I look inside that’s about it.. there’s so many scratches.. and he really tried to make purchase that Jeep when I told him NO I just don’t feel anything for Jeep and he didn’t even let me look around the lot for a car that I am interested in.. so I Left the Dealership..
I got to watch this video after the live stream. I enjoyed the subject matter immensely. Just this week I found out how important an extended warranty/service contract is. I own a 2015 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5i with about 26,800 miles on the odometer. Last week I went to drive home from a meeting and the "Brake" light was illuminated. Now I take immaculate care of my vehicle: brake system flushed every 2yrs, belts hoses replaced due to age, all fluids changed. I go the brake light to go out, but something did not feel right with the brake system. I made a service appt. at the dealer who I sincerely enjoy doing business with. The end result was found to be a broken wheel sensor and E brake cable on a rear wheel. The cost of the repair was almost $500, however my warranty program with Zurich Insurance enabled me to have no cost out of pocket. This repair was almost the cost of the program.
I believe (if I'm wrong, tell me) that vast majority of the time that if a buyer has great credit, debt-to-income ratio & income that NOTHING beneficial to the consumer can happen in the Finance office @ a dealership.
I have 750+ FICO (anything above 750 is meaningless in lending), 6.3% DTI, and zero down payment on a car. Left my Kia dealer with a 22' Forte GT manual fully loaded package for sticker price last week. They got not a single extra penny out of me aside from their invoice markup which is 99.99% unavoidable. Free weathertech front and back, tinted windows, lifetime extended warranty free of charge, unlimited oil changes for 60 months, a coupon for 1 full vehicle detail job ($300 value) to use within 12 months, and free replacements on the Michelin tires ($270 tires) every 12 months for the life of the car that I am in possession of it for. I robbbbbbbed them.
The behavior a lot of dealerships are engaging in smacks of people who don't value repeat business. They're not interested in building a good relationship with the customer because they know they'll never see you again. I can only speculate as to why. Possibly they think that in 10, 15, 20 years when you buy another new car, they'll have moved on and sold the dealership to someone else. Or you'll buy a different brand. Or they see the handwriting on the wall for the entire franchised-dealer business model and they know they won't be around in 20 years.
I gave my unlisted number to Ford service for my elderly fathers car and two weeks later I get a call for extended warranty for a car I don’t own. I told Ford off for selling my number and it was an emergency number use only.
Email addresses and phone numbers……you cant trust companies with them. In Va. the DMV sells phone numbers. Good luck to us that want to keep those things private.
So I have a question for you guys about extended warranty. We purchased one in a past that was not from dealership. When our Suburban broke down, the dealership held our car hostage and put us in no winning position. They put like $600 or more inspection fee up front, which meant the car would have a major component taken apart for inspection (supposedly) and car would not be returned until extended warranty company will approve the repair which they told us may take from additional 3-5 days. If we were to take car back from dealership while waiting for approval, the fee would not be used towards final total part of fixing fee. What are your thoughts on it and have you ever experienced that? For the reference, we have very few dealership choices in the state.
I've heard of shops asking for labor cost for a pinpoint diag on mechanical issues. Not everything can be read on a scanner through the OBD/2 port. If they have to remove and disassemble the motor and transmission to figure out the problem, that can easily be hundreds of dollars of labor cost per AllData (dealership rates are even higher). I'm guessing their labor rate was $150 - $160 per hour so they were basically saying that to determine the exact cause of the problem they were asking for 2 hours of labor time just to tear down the motor and determine the issue, at which point they would have to ask the warrantor if it would be covered. Then 2 hours of reassembly time to put the motor back together. The likely reason that this cost would not be applied to the final repair cost if you take your car back is because they would have to spend another 4 hours tearing down and reassembling your motor when you bring it back. Your warranty company probably won't want to pay for that twice, but the technician wants to get paid for their time, so they were strongly requesting that you leave the vehicle there so they can just dump it in a spare bay and leave everything apart and organized for quick reassembly when they got the approval and the parts to make the repair. When you deal with the warranty companies they want a long story (they actually say internally that you have to story out the work in MPI or whatever the shop uses for notes) with pictures of what was found and what condition the parts are in. They may or may not send someone to the shop to verify in person. And if you're lucky, the shop doesn't have to actually call in and sit on the phone waiting for someone to answer. My service writers can be on hold over an hour trying to get someone to take their call to get warranty work approved. And of course for other customers coming in to drop off a car it can look like a writer is doing nothing but whenever that warranty company picks up the phone you have to stop everything and deal with them and only them, so getting involved with another customer face to face doesn't work.
@@Oxios I totally understand what you are saying. This is no different than trying to get medical procedures approved while patients are waiting for them. This is why I question whether the extended warranty that is sold by 3rd party (including YAA) is actually worth it. We have almost non existent public transportation where I live, and if car rental is not included for duration of time from diagnostic to actual repair then it's a crap deal and not worth it (you were correct they wanted to send their own guy to inspect and due to that dealer also increased the final price of repair by over $400, so we chose no warranty and have dealer repair it to save cost on extra price tag and cutting down time by 3-4 days). So my final question to you based on your experience dealing with repairs and warranties, is it worth it to purchase. If yes then from whom?
@@makb5354 It's worth it provided they are easy to get on the phone, will accept a thorough story from the technician without having to send a 2nd opinion on to low ball, and one that had a comprehensive rental policy. Especially for trip interruption, since some warranties don't cover a rental until diag finds a warrantable repair and that could be up to a week the customer is left waiting. I don't know what's available to you, but I would say you could always ask the technicians or writers which companies they know that have always been easiest to work with.
Oh yes they are the biggest con artist and crooked people They have threatened my of confiscate my car after they worked on it and couldn't fix it because they sad if was unsafe to be driven they are scary bstrds,
Extended warranties are a rip off Idc who it's through what they don't tell you is all the preventive maintenance has to be done by shops not by you so you will spend 1000s on that alone
Your program is awesome and VERY informative! Thanks for what you do. On a side note, Kimberly, is your cat a chocolate point Simanes? I had a blue point. Beautiful cats.
I went out and brought a 2024 honda rirgeline trailsport. I was using to finance through honda so I found get the 1000.00 lokality program I had to keep financ e for six months it didn't,t pay off to do it
I just encountered a dealer that wont accept third party checks. Super frustrating because i got pre approved and took a hit on my credit because its the exact car i wanted. And the car i want is rarer. I wont finance through them
I always get service contracts. Got it on my last car a week ago but I negotiated the price and saved $1500. I need the peace of mind, comprehensive contract svc as well. I always negotiate them.
A Toyota dealer told me that when I wanted to buy my car at the end of the lease I would get a better interest rate if I paid for the certified used car fee which was 2k. So he said I got the used certification for free since the interest rate is lower.
There are more bobby traps to watch out for now in just buying a car than in a Ukraine mine field. What about getting a pre-purchase inspection and using someone like AutoTrader?
I'm very curious. I agreed to a price and put down a deposit on a car in transit (I did ok but wish I had found this channel before to do better). The dealer said we would work out financing once the car is here in two weeks. Is that normal? Should we be concerned about them trying to sell the car to someone else and/or is this a tactic to have us get excited it's there and agree to more stuff in the finance office?
If you are worried about the dealer selling the car to someone else, you should ask to do paperwork a few days before the vehicle arrives. Many customers get upset if dealers run their credit twice, so most dealers will only ask for a credit application just before delivery. The dealer assumes you have the means to pay for the vehicle before you give them a deposit. Some dealers are more generous about returning a deposit than others. At least some will take the stance that if you gave the deposit and then failed to buy the car at the agreed price, it doesn't matter the reason why. You lose your deposit if you cannot fulfill your promise to buy.
No one can force you to do anything. If they show you a piece of crap paper like you guys just explained- RUN. If you sign it- You have done this to yourself. Self responsibility ppl.
hey guys, i live in Alberta, Canada. love your videos and wondering how much of all your content can be used in Canadian dealer? maybe do a show for canadians or do you know of any content that relates to canadians? keep up the good work
For those who can't wait - get GAP, don't do $0 down even if the interest is low, and watch the market like a hawk and get out and downsize car and payment as soon as you have positive equity. Vehicles with a lower base price still depreciate but not as much as high ticket ones.
Do you offer a honda extended warranty that can be purchased rather than from the dealership and of course at a better price? So II know if they are trying to make a bunch of money?
Yes, here is the link: caredge.com/extended-warranty. The retail price quoted is $600 over our cost. Feel free to print out your quote and take it to the dealer to negotiate a better price for the service contract that they offer. All the best, Ray
Do you guys have your own extended warranty that you sell? What do you think of Endurance they seem to always deny work needed on my car? Opinion? I pay an extra 115 a month for the warranty and I just wonder if I am wasting my money and they will just continue to deny anything that is wrong. Im just worried what if the engine blows.
You say walk out. That's all well and good but, I would make as formal complaint as I possibly could to the car company itself ! There are too many of these dealerships giving the car company's a bad name !
Can a VSC be transferred to another car? For example, Subaru is buying back my Forester before my VSC is up. Is it likely that my unused VSC could apply to my new car? Or maybe I should expect some money back from the unused part of the VSC? Thanks for all you do !
Question to you all. If I was really interested in buying a vehicle but before I make a final decision I want a independent mechanic to give it a look see and go through it at my cost. Would that be possible?
I think you should discourage people from ever buying a new car. I used to work for lenders and was amazed at how much a new car depreciated the second it was driven off the lot. It was thousands and was always a terrible shock to the purchaser.
? Not everyone can afford full coverage for insurance so when u buy a car u have to get full coverage off the lot, but is there an option for liability coverage……? Can’t they get liability out the door and then pay for full coverage once they can afford it: as soon as they can?
Would you put Lower down payment to cut the 1/2 point on interest? Or would you put higher payment on higher rate? The interest difference is not big. Amazing Shows
my local credit union has a car purhcase program just called on the phone and went to the bank ans signed the papers and the vehicle was at the bank for pickup very conveint no hasls j
Hi Linda, these 2 guys are entertaining, but, remember, they are choosing not to open a dealership, instead, they sell the same products as the dealer, but, pretend that the dealer is bad. These 2 charge a membership fee and get money from youtube revenue to bash the dealer. Be careful out there, I wouldn't buy a extended warranty ever, but, if I did, it would be at the dealer, not from unregulated people on youtube. These 2 constantly tell the viewers not to buy a warranty at the dealer, but, they have warranties for sale, (why do they even mark it up if they wanted to truly help people?) think about what I just said. I hope I have helped you. Tim (Used Car Dealer in Florida).
The dealer gave me a price. It seems agreeable. We sit down and talk about ordering one but suddenly the price is higher. He says that's because all the ones they order through their dealership get this security package add-on, which is almost $800 Canadian dollars. I say I don't want that. It's adding an etching number to some body parts that goes to a database if it gets stolen and offers some money if it can't be tracked down, blah blah blah. I ask if I can get the original price and it's a yes, but I'll have to wait at the back of the line because all the cars on order are ones they ordered with the security package and one without would be a new order. He says it could be a few months minimum but he can't know a general ballpark how much longer than that. The deposit is $1,000 CAD and non-refundable. It's a pressure tactic with time. Do you want a new car in a predictable timeframe? Pay the extra. Can you afford to wait and suffer the ambiguity of not knowing when your new car will arrive? Save some money. There must be a good margin on the Security Package. Same for the PPF. One dealership wanted about $100 CAD over the local market rate (~$375 CAD) for 24" partial hood, partial fenders and mirrors. Another dealer wanted $1400 for 24" partial hood, and mirrors. Not even part fenders. Both 3M PPF. All-season mats? A few hundred from the dealer for the set. Check Amazon, etc for mats that are cheaper and better designed (they don't have any flat ends where the ice/water/slush pours out.
Another way to think of VSCs - they don't normally cover consumables - brakes, tires, etc. Also, remember OEM brakes generally last a long time. I bought a maintenance plan on my '14 fusion, they threw in brakes in their estimate to show how much I would be saving. I'm 18k miles past my maintenance plan at this point, still running the original brakes, and anticipating another pass at the inspection station.
Plus they only cover anything after the manufacturers warranty as run out. Plus if you have not maintained your vehicle according to the warranty contract they can and will refuse to cover the repair cost.
I'm looking at a used Lexus RX350 F with approximately 80,000 miles (can't afford new). Putting down approximately 30-40% and my USAA agreed to finance the rest at 3.2%. The price is $34,900 with 86,000 miles. First, can you tell me how much the average markup is today for a used car? Also, what questions I should ask and what info I should not tell them? And can I get a VSC for a used vehicle? No question is a silly question. I have been watching your videos, but is there some you can refer me to on dealer vs customer on used cars?
What's up with CA (where I live)? By the way, Car Shield runs tons of ads on local over-the-air (OTA) channels, but apparently right now they are not allowed to do business in CA (I believe due to bad behavior).
You can see if the market will go higher but if you know what you'll get Joe and can reinvest that money into something that will pay off even better, go for it.
9:40 Stolen car: They would be protected because Carvana breached Warranty of Title, since it was a retailer, and Carvana takes the loss on this one. If you buy from a private party, all bets are off.
What cars should I be looking at that are SUV, hybrid and luxury compact with maximum base price about $45,000.00? It's my last car as I'm now 80 years young! Many thanks.
Went to a hyundai dealership in texas today and they told me i can't finance through my own bank, that i would have to finance through them and their banks only.
If enough people refuse to comply with this BS, dealers will change.
Congratulations to you guys you're doing great job educating the comunity against the dealership evils
I went to look at a used 2018 Ford F-150. The dealership doc fee was $899. The "accessories" totaled $1500 (+taxes). I told them I did not want those accessories and they said those are included on all the cars they sell and were essentially required. They told me the vehicle was priced to accommodate the condition of the vehicle and were being up front about issues, yet I found something wrong with it within the first minute of sitting inside the vehicle and they were aware of it. They insisted I ignore the broken item and talk numbers anyway. After they gave me all their numbers the price of the vehicle was $5000 over their list price. Granted I know some were taxes/tags/registration. My point is they would not even work with me on price and fixing items because they knew they would get a sucker on the next person interested in the truck.
I fund car loans. The doc fee is negotiable. Or you can go to California they cap doc fees at $85.00
If you buy a new car you have at least 3yr36,000 mile warranty and the VSC runs concurrent with your factory warranty. So if you buy a 5 year extended warranty you only benefit for 2 years of it.
@jonw626
That's why you always get extended warranty mailers when you're almost 3 years into your loan.
Just looked at leasing a Stinger GT1 and asked the dealer in FL to be upfront with all parameters including the money factor. They emailed me all that information and then the salesperson called to tell me they were marking up the price by $4500 to recoup losses from low-volume selling in the current market. I asked why that wasn't reflected on their website, and his response was, "Kia designs our website." I don't think that's true because Kia dealer websites are highly variable in appearance. I told him the car has been on his lot for just over 90 days and to text me in two months went it's still on the lot and he is willing to go with MSRP. This is despite me being a Kia customer for the past 3 years and being willing to finance through KIa Finance again. Customer retention concepts are out the door now!
You are not wrong brother!
And not to be a brand snob, but it's a Kia, c'mon dealer dude!
I love my KIA and hate my dealer. Wanted to purchase a new Telluride nightfall edition. Not a cheap car. The dealer made it so difficult I just walked out with him following me out. Nothing pleasant about the process.
Typical. Unfortunately. This is EXACTLY why I’d never buy a Kia. They’re infamous… for this crap.
I have a forte and I’m looking to trade in for a stinger as well. I won’t finance with KIA again lol.
I give notice to a salesperson they get one chance to give me their price out the door. Not playing tricks. Know the value and msrp. Know the market fair price and have finance set up. There is always another dealership online now. Stand by your statement and walk out if need be.
They always call when I get home.
I've had them chase me down in the parking lot.
Not around here. They don't care, they will walk you to the door. All the dealerships are charging 4k over mrsp and they won't back down
The dealership model should be abolished.
There may have been a handful of issues with carvana and others like them however car dealers rip people off constantly. I have witnessed someone trade their vehicle in, go home with a car only to have the dealer call and say bring the car back you weren't approved however, the persons trade in was already gone! I have seen a dealer selling vehicle he knew was crap to a young girl. The car died a couple days later and all the dealer would say to her was Oh well make the payment or get sued. So, while some want you to believe that going to a dealer means you won't have to deal with things like you may with carvana and others like them, there are plenty of issues with dealerships as well. So, be aware of both types of purchasing
14:22 - As an attorney, I have two opinions on the Dealer's contract of you have to pay 2 months v. the Sales Agreement. At this point we can all agree the Dealer is acting as an agent of the finance company so the Dealer is technically binding both entities to the deal.
1. My first thought was which contract was signed first? If the Dealer's contract was signed first, then the Finance company will overrule with the "No prepay penalty" and the Buyer could easily argue that the clause that usually says "All parties agree that there is no other contract" will essentially override the previous contract signed minutes earlier.
2. My second thought is when there is a contract that conflicts, its held against the drafter of the contract - not the other party, thus the Buyer will prevail here for not paying.
3. Based on my theories of #1-2, the Buyer will prevail in Court, or it will unenforceable.
4. One could argue that the Dealership is creating fraud against the Finance company, and the Dealer should be in jail for Finance fraud.
I haven't bought a car from a dealership in over 30 yrs . . . and I have absolutely NO recollection of the process. Now - I am ready to purchase a new car from a dealership and I will be paying cash. What is the best way to simplify this process. Ideally . . . agree on an OTD price . . . pull out the ole checkbook, write the check . . . and take the keys and scoot. . . . ? ? ? ?
Hey! What did you end up doing to buy the car cash?
@@AtomicBananana Ironically - it ended up a lot like my rather sarcastic question above. My dealing with the salesman was gr8. I told him the model I was interested, he showed me a few of the features, I decided on what I wanted . . . he showed me what he had with those features, I picked a color I liked . . we test drove, went into his office did the basic paperwork . . I came back the next day to pick up and dealt with the (hardsell manager). I proceeded to say no, no, no . . to all the tricky gimmick add-ons, pulled out my cashier check that I had brought with me and he handed me the keys. I got a really good deal. They were having a President's Day sale and a Valentines Day $$-off gimmick . . and I got it for $2500 below sticker.
Great video I appreciate all that you guys do. Kimberly teased at the beginning of the video about buy-rate but never elaborated or explained best practices, etc. for instance as a consumer if I asked a finance manager what the buy rate is would they legally have to divulge that information? How would I as a consumer find that out? What negotiating tactic could a consumer use? I would love for her to offer this. Perhaps there was another video on this that I missed if that’s the case please kindly direct me to it. Thank you
Did you ever find out what the buy rate is or if you can get finance managers to divulge that during negotiations?
No, they do not have to disclose it. And most definitely will not disclose it because that is the private rate between the dealership and the bank. The bank is essentially saying "thanks for bringing me a customer, this is the lowest rate I will accept" and now the finance manager will try to put on couple of points on top of that rate as extra earnings for the dealership.
The best way to know what a fair rate is, is to go to your bank or credit union and see what rates they offer you for the amount you want to finance and compare that to ehat the dealership offers you
Last year I wanted to return my leased Subaru to the dealership where I originally leased it. They wanted a $1,000.00 return fee. I ended up keeping the car and writing a check for the balance owned on the car. I definitely think I did the right thing. Oh, I have another Subaru I released through the same dealership and did the same thing. I have two relatively reliable cars and no car payments? Lastly my two Subaru vehicles have gone up in value!!!
First rule: before you sign anything, always be ready to walk out! Yes Sir, that is my way of thinking! In Quebec, Canada, we can consult a registry (RDPRM) to learn if a loan was inscribed to that vehicle!!!
Canada generally offers more consumer protections than the U.S.
So proud of your extended service contract, 6mos later you raised the price 20%. I always have to remember I'm listening to car salemen. Instead of selling YOUR PLAN to help the consumer, how about just telling them that the same companies will sell direct to the comsumer without a middleman saving the consumer hundreds if not thousands!
Why are the regulators not stepping in, and stopping this? If a dealer is pulling this stuff, can they be prosecuted? If the dealers start getting fined, they will stop it.
Half our country believes that regulation (of any kind) is bad.
Definitely it seems like a predatory practice that all dealers collude on so no matter where you go you get the same double talk
If the F&I salesperson is too pushy or just makes you feel uncomfortable, just get up and walk out, or better yet, accept everything they offer, then call the next week and cancel all of it, nothing pisses them off more than having to return all of that profit!
We were going to pay the car off early anyway - we cancelled next day. They make you wait 90-days, but we got our price, cancelled extras and refinanced immediately after those were credited back. They lost a customer and all profits. We should have walked out, but we really wanted this particular car - idiots! So much for dealers wanting family business.
I was at a dealership just looking. I let them go through their tactics in the office. I decided I wasn't buying a car that day. As I was walking to my car they chased after me and as I was pulling off he also was still trying to get me to come back in. Man he was acting like he was desperate.. How dare he chase a customer after they were pulling out to go out if the dealership.
can't wait until traditional car salesmans job goes the way of the maytag repair and milk delivery man lol
And the newspaper delivery boy. Don't forget about the public phone change collector.
I just spoke to a Lexus dealership about factory odering an NX350h, and was given a quote of $2500- 3k above MSRP. Was told that it didn't have anything to do with the chip shortage but that this is going to be the norm when buying a high end vehicle from now on. I said no thanks. I'd rather donate the extra markup than give it to those vultures.
Lmao vultures but I agree this markup on popular cars are insane
Just buy a Toyota.
@@lordt78 Toyota dealer I went to said new rav4 are currently marked up between 1k to 7k.
Thats not even so bad. by me they are 7-10K. I was told "for you ill do it for 5500". lol.
I think that is true, but, I cannot believe they would admit it. I think that is arrogant as h!
Dealerships could not pull off these "magic tricks" if the consumer was more aware of how the tricks are performed.
Kudos to the YAA team for arming the consumer with the verbal judo to develop self respect and to protect.
Interesting video. I was shopping today for a Kia Telluride. One dealership didn't have one like I wanted, but they had some on the way. Problem is, the cars on the lot have some BS protection pkgs , adding $5k to the price. So, the cars in transit do not have these BS pkgs, but I don't have the option to buy w/o them. I can buy one before it arrives, but they WILL add the BS and I have no choice in the matter. Almost criminal, in my mind. The problem I have is that I have to have a car asap, there are only so many dealers, and a 2020 Telluride sells very quick after hitting the lot. Unfortunately, you can be well prepared with knowledge, and willing to work hard in negotiating, but the dealers hold the cards, right now, and they know it. (A little added info... I saw one at 1030am today, left eat lunch and visit another dealer. I called the first dealer back at 2:30 to arrange a test drive and probably buy... car already sold. It's tough times for people who need a car, especially if they are selective, at all)
What I'm running into is the dealership won't negotiate down from the MSRP they are offering more for my trade than I paid for it so that helps. But I'm working to get my payment the same or less than I'm paying now.
I would like for you to do a video on buying used or certified pre-owned and best tactics to achieve a great deal
Yesss!!!
Thank you YAA for the education resulting in verifiable empowerment, kindness and encouragement. I will try to pay this forward to others. Best regards Marie Carlton
I just went to order a 2022 Subaru Crosstrek the car price was &30,650 went to put down deposit sales manger gives me paper work to sign and now it is $32,750 plus a $500.00 processing fee ? I took my check and walked out .
Discount Refund Agreement. In Nevada, Ford called it Red Carpet Lease. I’d assume as if you’re walking down the red carpet and you can get into another Ford fairly easily to get out of the lease.
When shopping know what vehicle you want, know what the price should be from auto trader or kelley blue book. Get pre approved from your bank or credit union. Test drive the vehicle, pull a car fax yourself and have it inspected if it is used. Talk about price. If you do not like deal walk away. Try not to buy extras in finance department.
Getting pre-approved is a good idea, but often times manufacture's financing is just as good, if not better. When we bought our Subaru last year they (Subaru) were giving 1.9% for up to 72 months for anyone with credit score of 700 or higher.
We have to hire a lawyer to understand the language on these contracts.. The power is in your 🙌. Be a prudent consumer. Would you please do a video with Kimberly only on the Finance portion only.. This was a informative video🚘
We have seen these car shortages before. Not on an industry wide basis but I remember the days back in the late 70s or early 80s when you couldn't get a Honda.
You are being too kind Ray. They aren't creative. They are CROOKS
The original, dealer, State approved, contract should always take precedence over any addendum that a dealer adds to it. An addendum is something "IN ADDITION TO". So the original contract that is state-approved should always went out. I think we may start seeing some consumer start to sue these dealers in the next few years.
In Most states that is likely true. The case mentioned, was the buyer was asked to sign a side agreement. In that case you are likely creating another contract that you are bound by. Some states ,ay actually bar side agreements. The bottom line as suggested in the video is "walk out" if they pull that on you
My local new car dealers offer financing through the local Credit Unions at the same interest rate as I get by directly using the credit union myself. I assume the dealership makes some kind of money on the arrangements which is fine with me. Because I'm paying a fair interest rate. Years ago I always arranged my own financing unless the dealer could beat it. But now I get the same rate as I would by going to the credit union myself and it's more convenient.
Is it possible for you to do a roll play on factory order? Like y’all did to negotiate the OTD
About to factory order! I've been finding out they don't actually order the cars, they just get automatically allocated them by the manufacturer anyway? Also, some require $500-1000 deposit, and some don't. I wonder what else I don't know (yet)?
Factory orders Been arould for years decades . It's very easy to do
@@dr.who2 Well not everyone has done it. Role playing would be helpful and that is what In Tune Hunter asked.
I know your comment was few months ago, but here's a video for anyone who may be interested. th-cam.com/video/PYBWZURiyxY/w-d-xo.html
@@user5871 I've seen that this week the sale people don't even know when they're coming. They might see an allocation. But they can also get some that they had no idea they where coming.
I once had a car with significant front end frame damage that was restored. Years later I went to Carmax to see if they would buy it. They did a Carfax report and there wasn't any info at all about the significant damage history. I was shocked. (I didn't sell it to them)
Carfax is only so reliable. The issue needs to be reported to the DMV.
Carfax isn't perfect and doesn't report unclaimed repairs
15:17 Wowow! Unless my car was dead and I needed a car that minute, which I have done, I would immediately walk! Even if I knew I would keep the loan.
I LOVE this channel. Good job guys. The thought of you guys ever going away is inconceivable!
You guys are adorable 🥰 I love seeing fathers and sons together!
they don't show up together very often in your culture ha?
My plan was to wait to purchase a new truck but I did not get the warm fuzzy feeling from you guys that the price would be any better next year, since I was able to buy employee pricing I did order one from DaveB sells chevy, his dealership does not charge the MPA if you order plus I got my GM discount. After seeing some of the used car prices it was worth it for me to spend a couple of extra grand to get a vehicle with no miles as apposed to spending 45 grand on one with 60 thousand miles.
Anyone who buys a new car,truck or anything must know that they decrease in value significantly as soon as you drive them off the lot. Dealers see buyers like you as suckers.
@Vona Kenyon No anyone that spends new car prices on used cars with a bunch of miles are suckers. I keep my vehicles for many many years so I get my moneys worth out of them. Like my 99 Silverado with 180k miles (bought new) and my suburban with 145K miles.( bought used from coworker) I will more then likely (if it holds up) get another 10 years out of this truck. So everyone has there own circumstances you cant just lump people in one comment
To avoid F&I I go in and get a purchase agreement and take it to my bank (who I have already been pre-approved) and get a check then go back to the dealer and swap the check for the car. Easy peasy.
Explain in detail if you can, please.
@nostudion1037 once I choose the car I want I ask the salesman for a purchase order including all taxes. I take it to my bank and they cut me a check, I go back to the dealer and buy the car.
@@MissDebbye Are you taking all the extras off or getting a price? You buying out, leasing or financing?
@@nostudion1037 I am financing through my bank but as far as the dealer is concerned I am paying cash out right. The purchase order is an out the door cash price.
When I bought my used car almost 3 yrs ago i pd some down and put the bal on my credit card @9.9%. I pay as much or as little as I want each mo. Almost pd off.
15:46 This kind of reminds me if the lazy gas stations during covid that didn’t want to clean their bathrooms so they closed them. I refused to buy gas from them.
This is incredibly insightful! Thank you so much for providing this information. It truly lifts the vail so that honest customers can just buy an honest product. Absolutely wonderful!
I am not sure YAA has ever discussed this, but what are some tips when you are going to flat out pay for the car all at once? No financing involved, no trade in's involved, just - I have the money for the car i want, this makes things much much easier of a car buying process at the dealership. I plan on purchasing a 2022 Toyota GR86 Premium model, which comes out in December according to Toyota. I know what the MSRP is on the vehicle and i also know there will be some taxes and fees, which i don't know how much that part will be. But back to my initial question after knowing all i have said thus far, when paying in full, are there any questions i need to ask, anything i need to be careful of when i do in fact make the purchase with this method of car buying? Do they have have any secrets i won't be aware of?
Not sure if you bought a car yet but I bought a Toyota last month. I put down a deposit and chose the exact car I wanted and I told them if they put dealer add ons or try to mark up above msrp then it’s a no deal for me and they agreed. The finance manager will try to sell you stuff but other than that there are document fees around $200 and sales tax is paid later at the DMV.
They have said many times, NEVER tell anyone you are paying cash until the deal is done. Dealers make money on financing and want you to borrow from them. If you say up front you are paying cash they will not negotiate on anything.
@@mungox1 - So it’s better to get a loan then pay it off asap?
@@Once800- Finance for the car. Then 7-10 days later either mail a check, or walk into whichever lender it is you borrowed from, and make the early payoff amount. It’ll be a major low blow to the dealerships profits from the products they try and force upon you. And you’ll save a bit of money on interest by only paying 7-10 days of interest vs 30-40 days etc.
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I wish that there is a way to let more people join this group which will help passing your valuable message.
Im a daily follower and im in the market for a ram truck and trying to hold myself from buying one.
I bought a 2019 rav 4 xle and the financial manager would not budge on the extended warranty cost, I asked to work with someone else and went from 35.00 a month to 16.00 a month.
You guys are fun, really enjoying the videos.
Where can I find the term analogy codes that is needed when you go into the F&I office?
Thank you for all this amazing information. God bless you for being so honest!
The salesman from Hyundai Of El cajon CA tried to put me in a Jeep that their words “ I was approved for JEEP “ he showed me and I immediately say NO !!!! I didn’t even bother to test drive it.. I look inside that’s about it.. there’s so many scratches.. and he really tried to make purchase that Jeep when I told him NO I just don’t feel anything for Jeep and he didn’t even let me look around the lot for a car that I am interested in.. so I Left the Dealership..
I got to watch this video after the live stream. I enjoyed the subject matter immensely. Just this week I found out how important an extended warranty/service contract is. I own a 2015 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5i with about 26,800 miles on the odometer. Last week I went to drive home from a meeting and the "Brake" light was illuminated. Now I take immaculate care of my vehicle: brake system flushed every 2yrs, belts hoses replaced due to age, all fluids changed. I go the brake light to go out, but something did not feel right with the brake system. I made a service appt. at the dealer who I sincerely enjoy doing business with. The end result was found to be a broken wheel sensor and E brake cable on a rear wheel. The cost of the repair was almost $500, however my warranty program with Zurich Insurance enabled me to have no cost out of pocket. This repair was almost the cost of the program.
You still had a cost out of pocket… you just financed it 🤦♂️
Which extended warranty company do you work for?
I believe (if I'm wrong, tell me) that vast majority of the time that if a buyer has great credit, debt-to-income ratio & income that NOTHING beneficial to the consumer can happen in the Finance office @ a dealership.
I have 750+ FICO (anything above 750 is meaningless in lending), 6.3% DTI, and zero down payment on a car.
Left my Kia dealer with a 22' Forte GT manual fully loaded package for sticker price last week. They got not a single extra penny out of me aside from their invoice markup which is 99.99% unavoidable.
Free weathertech front and back, tinted windows, lifetime extended warranty free of charge, unlimited oil changes for 60 months, a coupon for 1 full vehicle detail job ($300 value) to use within 12 months, and free replacements on the Michelin tires ($270 tires) every 12 months for the life of the car that I am in possession of it for.
I robbbbbbbed them.
A VSC actually only covers manufacturer defect. Does not cover wear and tear.
I don't see how buying a car now or in the near future is a good idea for me right now. So frustrating.
The behavior a lot of dealerships are engaging in smacks of people who don't value repeat business. They're not interested in building a good relationship with the customer because they know they'll never see you again. I can only speculate as to why. Possibly they think that in 10, 15, 20 years when you buy another new car, they'll have moved on and sold the dealership to someone else. Or you'll buy a different brand. Or they see the handwriting on the wall for the entire franchised-dealer business model and they know they won't be around in 20 years.
I gave my unlisted number to Ford service for my elderly fathers car and two weeks later I get a call for extended warranty for a car I don’t own. I told Ford off for selling my number and it was an emergency number use only.
Email addresses and phone numbers……you cant trust companies with them. In Va. the DMV sells phone numbers. Good luck to us that want to keep those things private.
People still have, “listed” numbers? 😆
@@MFR22 Doesn't matter, you can find it on the web. Nothing is private anymore.
@@teleguy5699 my comment went over your head.
love your channel. I am learning a lot from you two!!!!
Y'all are great! I'm loving my 2011 Crown Vic more and more each day.
Where in Canada can we get a break like you guys give.
Im learning so much I'm so glad I came across you guys.
Dealer markups should be known as scoundrel fees, and called such to the dealership staff.
So I have a question for you guys about extended warranty. We purchased one in a past that was not from dealership. When our Suburban broke down, the dealership held our car hostage and put us in no winning position. They put like $600 or more inspection fee up front, which meant the car would have a major component taken apart for inspection (supposedly) and car would not be returned until extended warranty company will approve the repair which they told us may take from additional 3-5 days. If we were to take car back from dealership while waiting for approval, the fee would not be used towards final total part of fixing fee. What are your thoughts on it and have you ever experienced that? For the reference, we have very few dealership choices in the state.
I've heard of shops asking for labor cost for a pinpoint diag on mechanical issues. Not everything can be read on a scanner through the OBD/2 port. If they have to remove and disassemble the motor and transmission to figure out the problem, that can easily be hundreds of dollars of labor cost per AllData (dealership rates are even higher). I'm guessing their labor rate was $150 - $160 per hour so they were basically saying that to determine the exact cause of the problem they were asking for 2 hours of labor time just to tear down the motor and determine the issue, at which point they would have to ask the warrantor if it would be covered. Then 2 hours of reassembly time to put the motor back together. The likely reason that this cost would not be applied to the final repair cost if you take your car back is because they would have to spend another 4 hours tearing down and reassembling your motor when you bring it back. Your warranty company probably won't want to pay for that twice, but the technician wants to get paid for their time, so they were strongly requesting that you leave the vehicle there so they can just dump it in a spare bay and leave everything apart and organized for quick reassembly when they got the approval and the parts to make the repair.
When you deal with the warranty companies they want a long story (they actually say internally that you have to story out the work in MPI or whatever the shop uses for notes) with pictures of what was found and what condition the parts are in. They may or may not send someone to the shop to verify in person. And if you're lucky, the shop doesn't have to actually call in and sit on the phone waiting for someone to answer. My service writers can be on hold over an hour trying to get someone to take their call to get warranty work approved. And of course for other customers coming in to drop off a car it can look like a writer is doing nothing but whenever that warranty company picks up the phone you have to stop everything and deal with them and only them, so getting involved with another customer face to face doesn't work.
@@Oxios I totally understand what you are saying. This is no different than trying to get medical procedures approved while patients are waiting for them. This is why I question whether the extended warranty that is sold by 3rd party (including YAA) is actually worth it. We have almost non existent public transportation where I live, and if car rental is not included for duration of time from diagnostic to actual repair then it's a crap deal and not worth it (you were correct they wanted to send their own guy to inspect and due to that dealer also increased the final price of repair by over $400, so we chose no warranty and have dealer repair it to save cost on extra price tag and cutting down time by 3-4 days). So my final question to you based on your experience dealing with repairs and warranties, is it worth it to purchase. If yes then from whom?
@@makb5354 It's worth it provided they are easy to get on the phone, will accept a thorough story from the technician without having to send a 2nd opinion on to low ball, and one that had a comprehensive rental policy. Especially for trip interruption, since some warranties don't cover a rental until diag finds a warrantable repair and that could be up to a week the customer is left waiting. I don't know what's available to you, but I would say you could always ask the technicians or writers which companies they know that have always been easiest to work with.
Oh yes they are the biggest con artist and crooked people
They have threatened my of confiscate my car after they worked on it and couldn't fix it because they sad if was unsafe to be driven they are scary bstrds,
Extended warranties are a rip off Idc who it's through what they don't tell you is all the preventive maintenance has to be done by shops not by you so you will spend 1000s on that alone
Time to apply some of the mortgage rules to dealers finance departments including state and federal licensing.
Your program is awesome and VERY informative! Thanks for what you do. On a side note, Kimberly, is your cat a chocolate point Simanes? I had a blue point. Beautiful cats.
I went out and brought a 2024 honda rirgeline trailsport. I was using to finance through honda so I found get the 1000.00 lokality program I had to keep financ e for six months it didn't,t pay off to do it
Very informative! I'm so glad I've your videos. It is very helpful for all the ones wanting to be educated and improve their negotiating skills.
I just encountered a dealer that wont accept third party checks. Super frustrating because i got pre approved and took a hit on my credit because its the exact car i wanted. And the car i want is rarer. I wont finance through them
I always get service contracts. Got it on my last car a week ago but I negotiated the price and saved $1500. I need the peace of mind, comprehensive contract svc as well. I always negotiate them.
A Toyota dealer told me that when I wanted to buy my car at the end of the lease I would get a better interest rate if I paid for the certified used car fee which was 2k. So he said I got the used certification for free since the interest rate is lower.
There are more bobby traps to watch out for now in just buying a car than in a Ukraine mine field. What about getting a pre-purchase inspection and using someone like AutoTrader?
I'm very curious. I agreed to a price and put down a deposit on a car in transit (I did ok but wish I had found this channel before to do better). The dealer said we would work out financing once the car is here in two weeks. Is that normal? Should we be concerned about them trying to sell the car to someone else and/or is this a tactic to have us get excited it's there and agree to more stuff in the finance office?
If you are worried about the dealer selling the car to someone else, you should ask to do paperwork a few days before the vehicle arrives.
Many customers get upset if dealers run their credit twice, so most dealers will only ask for a credit application just before delivery. The dealer assumes you have the means to pay for the vehicle before you give them a deposit. Some dealers are more generous about returning a deposit than others. At least some will take the stance that if you gave the deposit and then failed to buy the car at the agreed price, it doesn't matter the reason why. You lose your deposit if you cannot fulfill your promise to buy.
No one can force you to do anything. If they show you a piece of crap paper like you guys just explained- RUN. If you sign it- You have done this to yourself. Self responsibility ppl.
Legit, this content is great even if you're not buying a car.
I hope more people just say No. dealers are making to much money,
Amen to that!
hey guys, i live in Alberta, Canada. love your videos and wondering how much of all your content can be used in Canadian dealer? maybe do a show for canadians or do you know of any content that relates to canadians? keep up the good work
I was just at the dealership last week. I wanted to negotiate a price and was told, sorry we don't negotiate. Is this normal?
Thanks for what you're doing. It's great!
Thanks for the information. Trying to buy Ford F-150 Lariat 2023.
Consumers purchasing vehicles now, are going to be underwater big time in 3-5 yrs from now.
For those who can't wait - get GAP, don't do $0 down even if the interest is low, and watch the market like a hawk and get out and downsize car and payment as soon as you have positive equity. Vehicles with a lower base price still depreciate but not as much as high ticket ones.
only the idiots
@@livingaboard Some us aren’t idiots . Some have 1 car that no longer runs and have to buy a new one
Do you offer a honda extended warranty that can be purchased rather than from the dealership and of course at a better price? So II know if they are trying to make a bunch of money?
Yes, here is the link: caredge.com/extended-warranty. The retail price quoted is $600 over our cost. Feel free to print out your quote and take it to the dealer to negotiate a better price for the service contract that they offer. All the best, Ray
Has anyone seen a sticker where the "Standard Features" for a particular model are listed as additional expense at the end of the window sticker?
Do you guys have your own extended warranty that you sell? What do you think of Endurance they seem to always deny work needed on my car? Opinion? I pay an extra 115 a month for the warranty and I just wonder if I am wasting my money and they will just continue to deny anything that is wrong. Im just worried what if the engine blows.
You say walk out. That's all well and good but, I would make as formal complaint as I possibly could to the car company itself ! There are too many of these dealerships giving the car company's a bad name !
Can a VSC be transferred to another car? For example, Subaru is buying back my Forester before my VSC is up. Is it likely that my unused VSC could apply to my new car? Or maybe I should expect some money back from the unused part of the VSC? Thanks for all you do !
Question to you all. If I was really interested in buying a vehicle but before I make a final decision I want a independent mechanic to give it a look see and go through it at my cost. Would that be possible?
I'd say yes. Private sellers do, if dealer won't allow it then you have answer to not do business with dealer. If nothing to hide....
What happens when your trade in is worth more than the car you are buying
I think you should discourage people from ever buying a new car. I used to work for lenders and was amazed at how much a new car depreciated the second it was driven off the lot. It was thousands and was always a terrible shock to the purchaser.
? Not everyone can afford full coverage for insurance so when u buy a car u have to get full coverage off the lot, but is there an option for liability coverage……? Can’t they get liability out the door and then pay for full coverage once they can afford it: as soon as they can?
Would you put Lower down payment to cut the 1/2 point on interest? Or would you put higher payment on higher rate? The interest difference is not big. Amazing Shows
my local credit union has a car purhcase program just called on the phone and went to the bank ans signed the papers and the vehicle was at the bank for pickup very conveint no hasls j
Shell out the big bucks, TIM! This channel is for people who have some common sense!
Hi Linda, these 2 guys are entertaining, but, remember, they are choosing not to open a dealership, instead, they sell the same products as the dealer, but, pretend that the dealer is bad. These 2 charge a membership fee and get money from youtube revenue to bash the dealer. Be careful out there, I wouldn't buy a extended warranty ever, but, if I did, it would be at the dealer, not from unregulated people on youtube. These 2 constantly tell the viewers not to buy a warranty at the dealer, but, they have warranties for sale, (why do they even mark it up if they wanted to truly help people?) think about what I just said. I hope I have helped you. Tim (Used Car Dealer in Florida).
very informative!!!! thank you
The dealer gave me a price. It seems agreeable. We sit down and talk about ordering one but suddenly the price is higher. He says that's because all the ones they order through their dealership get this security package add-on, which is almost $800 Canadian dollars. I say I don't want that. It's adding an etching number to some body parts that goes to a database if it gets stolen and offers some money if it can't be tracked down, blah blah blah. I ask if I can get the original price and it's a yes, but I'll have to wait at the back of the line because all the cars on order are ones they ordered with the security package and one without would be a new order. He says it could be a few months minimum but he can't know a general ballpark how much longer than that. The deposit is $1,000 CAD and non-refundable.
It's a pressure tactic with time. Do you want a new car in a predictable timeframe? Pay the extra. Can you afford to wait and suffer the ambiguity of not knowing when your new car will arrive? Save some money.
There must be a good margin on the Security Package. Same for the PPF. One dealership wanted about $100 CAD over the local market rate (~$375 CAD) for 24" partial hood, partial fenders and mirrors. Another dealer wanted $1400 for 24" partial hood, and mirrors. Not even part fenders. Both 3M PPF. All-season mats? A few hundred from the dealer for the set. Check Amazon, etc for mats that are cheaper and better designed (they don't have any flat ends where the ice/water/slush pours out.
Another way to think of VSCs - they don't normally cover consumables - brakes, tires, etc. Also, remember OEM brakes generally last a long time. I bought a maintenance plan on my '14 fusion, they threw in brakes in their estimate to show how much I would be saving. I'm 18k miles past my maintenance plan at this point, still running the original brakes, and anticipating another pass at the inspection station.
Plus they only cover anything after the manufacturers warranty as run out. Plus if you have not maintained your vehicle according to the warranty contract they can and will refuse to cover the repair cost.
I'm looking at a used Lexus RX350 F with approximately 80,000 miles (can't afford new). Putting down approximately 30-40% and my USAA agreed to finance the rest at 3.2%. The price is $34,900 with 86,000 miles. First, can you tell me how much the average markup is today for a used car? Also, what questions I should ask and what info I should not tell them? And can I get a VSC for a used vehicle? No question is a silly question. I have been watching your videos, but is there some you can refer me to on dealer vs customer on used cars?
I had a 2014 Fusion and it was my favorite car of all time and I've had a lot of cars. Unfortunately I totaled it.
Thank you Ray, Zach & Kimberley for this great and informative video ❤
What's up with CA (where I live)? By the way, Car Shield runs tons of ads on local over-the-air (OTA) channels, but apparently right now they are not allowed to do business in CA (I believe due to bad behavior).
Sounds like I need to sell my extra car NOW and cash in while I can
You can see if the market will go higher but if you know what you'll get Joe and can reinvest that money into something that will pay off even better, go for it.
9:40 Stolen car: They would be protected because Carvana breached Warranty of Title, since it was a retailer, and Carvana takes the loss on this one. If you buy from a private party, all bets are off.
Can a dealership refuse to service your vehicle?
What cars should I be looking at that are SUV, hybrid and luxury compact with maximum base price about $45,000.00? It's my last car as I'm now 80 years young! Many thanks.
Went to a hyundai dealership in texas today and they told me i can't finance through my own bank, that i would have to finance through them and their banks only.
They penalize you if you pre pay and the penalized you of your late.. There is no way to win. 😣
How can I get one of you guys to go with me to buy a car in bucks county pa