here we see the old Honda trick of using the cylinder head casting as the bearing for the camshaft . this is low cost in production.. compared to using replaceable ball bearings. In practice this lasts a long time.. but if damaged or badly worn.. the head must be scrapped. So 30 years from now not so happy as we might have been.
Theses videos are awesome! Is this problem going to happen to my engine eventually? What is the best way to prevent it? I’m planning on doing oils changes every 3k miles and only using full synthetic. I ride like I stole it cause I’m a 2-stroke loving dirtbike guy 😆
Thanks!! As to the question about whether this might happen to your bike....¯\_(ツ)_/¯....What year is yours? The recall against defective cranks and rod bearing retainers was for model years 2015 and 2016. Either way...with proper care and maintenance, this really *should not* happen to any engine. I guess i'll have a better idea of what's wrong and maybe what caused it once i split open the crank case and can actually inspect the parts deep down inside. Regarding whether riding "hard" is bad for the engine....i saw a video here on youtube where they were comparing a "proper" break in vs a ride-it-like-you-stole-it break in, and they happened to do it on a CBR300! Spoiler: they said they couldnt find any difference on the internal engine components during the post-break-in tear-downs. th-cam.com/video/xpoglovyy_8/w-d-xo.html Long story short, sounds like you're doing everything right!
Good suggestion! I'm at my brother's wedding this weekend, but should be back in the garage next week...I'll put something together and add it to the video description.
Hey need to upgrade the performance of cbr250r so want to use the following parts from the cbr300r:- 1. Block piston 2. Cyclinder head 3. Crankshaft 4. Clutch assembly 5. Balancer 6. Chain set of 300r I want to know whether these will be a direct fit on the cbr250r's engine??
not sure, but i kinda assume that some piece of the shifter linkage maybe got bent. i dont think the clutch or transmission would get damaged too easily, but if the thief was an incompetent rider, maybe he stomped on the gear shifter, or maybe dropped it on the side and the ground or a curb hit the gear shift?? Sorry that happened bro. Good luck getting everything all fixed up again!
The service lifetime of the engine will depend a lot on the care it recieves. With closely monitored fluids and regular maintenance on a garage-kept bike that isn't ridden super aggressively very often.... yeah, 100k seems very possible.
I guess? I was just following the service manual for how to get at the crank. In retrospect, I suppose it was more disassembly than required...but I've had a handful of requests for a demo on checking valve clearances...I guess I'll do that during reassembly?
The timing chain prevents you from pulling the cylinder off. The fast and easy way to get the chain off the cam sprockets is to remove one or both cams. The valve shims probably don't have to come out, though.
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Thanks for the CBR videos!
here we see the old Honda trick of using the cylinder head casting as the bearing for the camshaft . this is low cost in production.. compared to using replaceable ball bearings. In practice this lasts a long time.. but if damaged or badly worn.. the head must be scrapped. So 30 years from now not so happy as we might have been.
Good thing they're a dime a dozen. The whole cylinder head assembly is $110 on revzilla.
Theses videos are awesome! Is this problem going to happen to my engine eventually? What is the best way to prevent it? I’m planning on doing oils changes every 3k miles and only using full synthetic. I ride like I stole it cause I’m a 2-stroke loving dirtbike guy 😆
Thanks!!
As to the question about whether this might happen to your bike....¯\_(ツ)_/¯....What year is yours? The recall against defective cranks and rod bearing retainers was for model years 2015 and 2016. Either way...with proper care and maintenance, this really *should not* happen to any engine. I guess i'll have a better idea of what's wrong and maybe what caused it once i split open the crank case and can actually inspect the parts deep down inside.
Regarding whether riding "hard" is bad for the engine....i saw a video here on youtube where they were comparing a "proper" break in vs a ride-it-like-you-stole-it break in, and they happened to do it on a CBR300! Spoiler: they said they couldnt find any difference on the internal engine components during the post-break-in tear-downs.
th-cam.com/video/xpoglovyy_8/w-d-xo.html
Long story short, sounds like you're doing everything right!
$ 15 digital read out calipers at HF read in in or metric.. good product.
dimensions for the engine stand.. so we don't re-invent the wheel ?
Good suggestion! I'm at my brother's wedding this weekend, but should be back in the garage next week...I'll put something together and add it to the video description.
Hey need to upgrade the performance of cbr250r so want to use the following parts from the cbr300r:- 1. Block piston 2. Cyclinder head 3. Crankshaft 4. Clutch assembly 5. Balancer 6. Chain set of 300r
I want to know whether these will be a direct fit on the cbr250r's engine??
What if i cant shift it to neutral when trying to line up the m and ex my bike was stolen and got it back from the police with it stuck in first.
not sure, but i kinda assume that some piece of the shifter linkage maybe got bent. i dont think the clutch or transmission would get damaged too easily, but if the thief was an incompetent rider, maybe he stomped on the gear shifter, or maybe dropped it on the side and the ground or a curb hit the gear shift??
Sorry that happened bro. Good luck getting everything all fixed up again!
have you any idea what maximum mileage of this engine possible ? Can it last 100k miles?
The service lifetime of the engine will depend a lot on the care it recieves. With closely monitored fluids and regular maintenance on a garage-kept bike that isn't ridden super aggressively very often.... yeah, 100k seems very possible.
@@lightningfrog27 thank you!
I guess you intend to do valve work as well as repair the lower end.. otherwise I am uncertain why you want to remove the cams ? `!!
I guess? I was just following the service manual for how to get at the crank. In retrospect, I suppose it was more disassembly than required...but I've had a handful of requests for a demo on checking valve clearances...I guess I'll do that during reassembly?
The timing chain prevents you from pulling the cylinder off. The fast and easy way to get the chain off the cam sprockets is to remove one or both cams. The valve shims probably don't have to come out, though.