HUGE TIP: After having done this a few times, have someone rotate the opposite wheel while you are hammering the axle out. This keeps the retaining ring from binding and makes it come free WAY easier.
Thank you sir!! Did the right front on my 2005 Honda CRV EX and it was pretty straight forward. The inner part of the cv axel was the hardest to remove. I tried a slide hammer that I rented from Autozone and it was pretty tight and hard to use. Removed with a steel chisel and tapping it just how you did it in your video, knocked it free after 10-20 taps. Pretty easy job for the home mechanic. Torque specs for the strut bolts: 118 ft lbs and the axel nut: 181 ft lbs. Saved some cash and feels good to get it done right!
@@hardlymovingpro on mine everything is liberally rusted. Do I need to replace knuckle and everything attached to it? Or can I just change parts that need changing?
You can save money replacing one part at a time and revisit the suspension replacing what you think is another part gone bad until whatever noise and roughness disappears. But what I've experienced is new parts stress out marginal old parts and results in another failure that must be repaired. Control arm bushings, sway bar links, ball joints, struts, springs, strut mounts, strut bellows, etc. tend to wear out together (perhaps at different rates) with old, high mileage cars.
Thanks for the hammer and chisle tip. Went like a dream. 45 minutes and replaced. Didn't need to use the ' turn the other wheel tip'. Same procedure for HR-V 2000 by the way.
Thank you so much. I just bought a 2006 CR-V and going over it before its annual safety inspection next month, the only thing I could find was some grease around the left hand CV boot at the wheel - it's a RH drive vehicle from Japan so that's passenger side. I thought it would be beyond my skillset to get at the boot, I've replaced rotors but never gone further removing hubs/knuckles or any suspension work. But from this video it doesn't look too much more advanced to get the wheel side of the axle free and then I can at least inspect if the boot split or whether the clamp just came loose. I'm in the middle of moving house so it's a job for next month but will look forward to it now. Cheers from New Zealand!
Had another look now I'm more familiar with the setup and of course your 'passenger side' video is actually my drivers side. So I now need to watch your 'drivers side' video to see how to do my passenger side lol. Lucky for me you took the time to make both! Cheers again & good day.
Precise and to the point. Thanks for keeping your ego in check! Most TH-camrs ramble on....No one wants to know their favorite ice cream or political affiliation ;)
Thanks for the video. It gave me the confidence to try this job myself. I also had trouble removing the CV joint at the half shaft bearing mount. What I did was loosen the bolt that holds the inner half shaft cover to the bearing mount enough to slide a punch through that space. That gave me a nice square angle to tap (well, a little more than tap) the joint out. Thanks again!
I did this job today and I'm gonna let you know how I got the inner axle out of that carrier thing. The problem is that there is play that prevents your prying from being effective. I am big and I had a hard time finding good leverage anyways in that tight space. I elevated the outer axle with a bungee cord to get it out of the way, then I took a cheap caliper piston compression tool and I positioned it so that it was pressing out from the carrier. I got it finger tight then I added a turn with a small vice grip. Then I got the same Pittsburg pry bar that he used in the video and found a spot to pry. It popped right out. It helped that it had both steady pressure and prying. The PB blaster probably didn't hurt either. I hope this helps you. This might also work with other models.
Hardly, thank you man for posting the actual work required to get this bad boy out. People need to know it's going to take some real skin in this game to get this thing off..
yeah the only bullshit was he used an impact tool to install an axle nut which is absolutely prohibited in ANY factory service manual because that will wreck the wheel bearing. What a riot...the video basically shows how NOT to do the repair!!!
HI, quick question, one of my CV axle is making noise. I want to diagnoise the side. so I jacked up the car both front and back wheel is away from the ground. I remove wheel on both side. I noticed one strange thing (noticed it before as well).. when i start the car, one of the CV AXLE is rotating and other one try to rotate but it doesnt .. i thought there is some issue with transmission but it is not.. it works very well. when i remove the JACK and drive on road everything is good. do you have any clue why this is happening and trick me on JACK STAND that one side is rotating but other side is not,,
@@hardlymovingpro thanks both of them are gear in drive mode. I was told that because of open differential it is normal to have one wheel to rotate with least resistance
Hi HMP. I have 2010 Mitsubishi Outlander ZH manual which appears to have a similar extension for the R CV axle. Just about to replace both L and R CV Axles and I think I’ll follow your method to remove the R Axle from the Extension whilst attached to the car. Would this be consistent with your experience for the Outlander ZH 2010?
Haven't worked on a Outlander but by the way you're describing it, the right side is a split axle design where the outer portion of the axle can be separated (pryed off) from the inner axle at the bearing carrier bracket.
Thank you for your advice. Yes, it does look somewhat similar to the Honda and I’ll try prying the outer CV axle away from the Extension in a similar way to what you had kindly shown. Thank you again for your time posting these excellent and helpful videos. They are greatly appreciated. Kind regards.
Great video. Next time you do a job like that, put some grease or never seize on the bolts that you re-installed. It takes a few extra seconds, and can save tons of time in the future. No need to put them in dry like that.
I wouldn’t grease the strut bolts. No need to. You don’t want them coming loose. My friend had the issue where his nuts came loose on the track which caused his nuts to shrink and pull off track like a timid dog with his tail between his legs. I do not recommend grease on those nuts. I never had issue removing them.
Yes ... for anybody trying to do this at home. But most home owners do not possess a torque wrench that measures up to 180 lbs. Moreover, from what I've seen in "professional" full service repair shops, they use an air powered impact driver, torque it down and call it a day.
@@hardlymovingpro youre right as long as the detent matches back up you should be fine but if you do have one bolt the wheel back on after its all back together so you have the weight of the vehicle to push against
How is the axle holding up? Im having a hard time deciding between NAPA axles or the cardone. However, i did read so ewhere that napa ones are just repackaged cardone ones?
@@hardlymovingpro how are the axles so far? Im just skeptical because amazon only gives me a 30 day return window and theres no specified manufacturer warranty
I tried pry bar and did not work, had to raise the car a little more for room to swing a small sledgehammer onto the axle to take it out, worked very well
Just woundering if i need alignment after doing this ? last year i had my alignment done by the dealer.. But woundering if i should do a alignment again, Just had mine replaced and did it this way.
Hi can anyone let me know, I have been having an issue with the cv axle, I followed the steps, but the axle part were its inside the bearing. Is really not coming out, it looks like there is rust in there , and is extremely hard to get out, it has no movement, does anyone know what I can do to make it come out , thank you in advance
Very good video and it also helped me a lot, even just knowing whether the big 36mm nut comes off anti-clockwise saved me some worries , keep it up thanks
I’ve been noticing transmission fluid under my Honda CR-V and I took a look and I noticed the cv axle is soaked but above it looked dry so I would think the cv axle is bad right? Or maybe just the seals??? It also vibrates when on highway Within one week I lost a little over a quart of transmission fluid
Trans fluid loss is usually due to a bad output shaft seal. Vibration can be caused by a number of possibilities (out of round tires, wheel balance, ball joints, control arms, etc.)
Hey I have a question my passenger side axle got replaced today and not even 6 blocks down it popped out again. Now my car won’t turn on it looks like the battery is dying but I’m sure it’s not my battery. Any idea why this is happening?
@@hardlymovingpro I did, but they don’t want to do anything about it. Is there anything that you could possibly think of as in why my car doesn’t turn on. I turn the key in the ignition it doesn’t turn on but there’s a faint clicking noise when I put the switch on start and the dash board lights start flickering.
I know it’s probably been asked but it looks like you didn’t need to pull the ball joint off? That would be sweet to know! I’m getting at it. Going to replace my snapped axle.
@@hardlymovingpro less time consuming than oil change. That dreaded vibration totally gone. Thanks for sharing. I did it wiyh a broken elbow (didnt know until it broke the entire way the next day :-0. Easiest repair ever.
Yes. The remainder of the shaft end pulls out with the expansion ring attached at the end. If you want to also replace the shaft seal, here's a video I did on a Toyota which is pretty much the same: th-cam.com/video/PFGfCs3QpXA/w-d-xo.html
You put the strut bolts in backwards from the way you took them out not sure if it matters but the nuts were facing the caliper and then you put them back in the opposite way
@@BMaes2 You will know its aligned with you can spin the intermediate shaft. Once you can spin that shaft do a couple light taps as you saw in this video and that ring will compress letting the axle on. Thanks for the video I was having a pain in the ass time getting the sucker off.
@@hardlymovingpro o have a vibration between 40 and 50mph. Engine shakes, had it up on blocks and found a bit of play on the half shaft to cv. I'm going to get a new shaft but wondered if I should change the half shaft bearing while I'm on with it. Is this worth it ?
@@hardlymovingpro i believe it is. I tried pulling it and i can feel it stuck on the o ring. After fixing my axel i have a wobble at 15-25 mph. Any thoughts.
Does an alignment need to be done after, or do the 2 knuckle bolts essentially keep things in place? Once the axle shaft out, can bearing be changed on the car with pulled tokls? Thanks so much. I learn a lot from your videos. Good teacher!
My crv shaking only when i accelerate at low speed (5-10 mph) i think it might be an axle since one of em has grease comming out of the boots. but wouldnt it shake at every speed ? My tire are balanced and nothing is loose in front end
This is only possible because you have space to put a punch on the inner side of the inner joint and swing a hammer. The 07 Accord V6 has the same axle but it's impossible to swing a hammer in there. You have to use a slide hammer with a cv axle fork to pull it out.
I here you! Another technique (without using a slide hammer attached to a cv fork) is to wrap a nylon strap around the inner cv bearing cup and snap (torque) the axle out. Here's the video where I did it on a Kia Sportage: th-cam.com/video/dHQDIml4CyM/w-d-xo.html
The ONLY way lug nut brakes off its stud is by the guy who rotated you tires cross threaded the nut , over torqued the nut with a impact gun shearing it off and sent you on your way hoping you didn't notice.
Hello could you tell me I have a 05 and I notice it was a hit in the right side I bought it. If I didn’t notice it that but after like 2 days later the car starting to shake like the steering wheels Shakes when driving slowing like 20 or 40
Could be a lot of stuff. Out of round tires ... bent wheel ... bent cv axle ... worn our ball joint ... worn out control ... Suggest you have a shop put it up on a lift to have it checked out.
Hardly Moving Productions well I know the tire of the front side I put it on the right rear cause it have a bubble something like that I know o gotta replace that time it looks like someone hit it on the sidewalk I replace the 2 bushing on the control arm on the front right side and the sway bar link it’s new but the one on the right one looks rare like I can move it by hand with no effort it just when I’m driving slow the front shakes like it looks the wheels want to fell out not like crazy shake but I’m feeling on the steering wheel
Hardly Moving Productions but I don’t hear a noise the only noise I hear it’s on the back rear tire that I put it to that side thinking that it was the tire that got hit I will take the car to get new tires and I’ll check on the lift everything
Im bout to tackle this on my 06 Element. I'm also gonna purchase a Milwaukee Impact tool. Can you tell me which one you have and was it sufficient enough to remove the axle nut? I know the video showed it but you might have loosened it first with another tool? Thanks for posting this.
The Milwaukee M18 1/2" impact tool was the 1st Milwaukee tool that I purchased. It came with two battery packs, a re-charger and a case. It lasted over 6 years with heavy use. Now I have over a dozen M18 and M12 tools and none of them have broke down. Perhaps they're a little tired, but still running. One you get your first kit with the charger and batteries, you can add to your collection by purchasing only "bare" tools (meaning without a battery and charger). The M18 1/2" I'd recommend is brushless and puts out over 700 lbs of torque. Should last you a good long time and you won't have any problems removing the axle nut and other big suspension nuts and bolts! Here's the link in Amazon: amzn.to/2XwX2JR
Don't quite understand your question. The CV Nut and the suspension strut nuts and bolts need to be torqued down after installing the new axle. Re-alignment is generally not needed.
A link to the passenger side cv axle made by Cardone Select is provided in the text description of this video. Warning: don't mess with retail store brand reman axles for the CRV. Had nothing but bad luck ... excess wheel vibration ... had to return 2x ... 3rd one finally worked ... it was new and more expensive but worth it.
@@henryerivesq.106 I didn't remove the strut ... I detached the strut from the steering knuckle so that the knuckle can be "tilted" away from the cv shaft spline. Only 2 bolts! Yes ... you could do the same by detaching the lower control arm ... if you're willing to get on your back, remove the ball joint cotter pin, ball joint nut and hope that the ball joint separator tool won't damage the threads of the ball joint stud. Your choice which you think is easier ... perhaps with a lift but not on the ground. I use to do it to the control arm way but not anymore.
Not for nothing but front axles are easy as shit to do. The midshaft can be a pain in the arse sometimes but with some patience n the right sledge u ken do itttt!!!! Lol😅.. good video tho. I do at least 6 to 8 cars a week, it's a side hustle. I can't work carpentry anymore because some anus decided to run a red light n screwed my knee up so this is what have left... Thanks to job corps... But yeah. I need to make sum videos.. 😊
You didn't show where to use the Anti Seize Lubricant, or many of the other items advertized. Shouldn't you grease the spines first before assembly, Chilton's manual says to? All that doesn't hurt the intermediate bearing? Should you use a torque wrench on many of those nuts and bolts. The two bolts for the knuckle piece to strut you put in backwards.
Using Anti Seize and grease helps with future disassembly if you live in the rust belt. If not, there's no need since they don't do it at the assembly line during vehicle construction. I use powered impact tools and rarely used torque specs unless I'm doing engine rebuilds. The knuckle bolts are used as fasteners and direction of bolt insert is irrelevant.
1:36 Some say *do not* pry against that centre bearing on the end of the jack shaft because the aluminum housing could get damaged and in one YT video, that housing was already cracked so he had to get another one from a scrap yard: th-cam.com/video/NLcTpTLBxlI/w-d-xo.html You got it apart the right way and saved the jack shaft which is not available in the aftermarket.
It would probally be easier to remove the ball joint instead of the brake lines and crap because once that is free, the whole rotor can move enough to get the cv axle out
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HUGE TIP: After having done this a few times, have someone rotate the opposite wheel while you are hammering the axle out. This keeps the retaining ring from binding and makes it come free WAY easier.
Good idea! I'll try it next time.
Can you expand on this a little bit more ?
Underrated comment, popped right out as soon as I moved the other wheel. Cheers
@@ElZilcho247 move the wheel by turning the steering wheel, or have both wheels jacked up and then turn the wheel physically?
move the wheel by turning the steering wheel, or have both wheels jacked up and then turn the wheel physically?
Thank you sir!! Did the right front on my 2005 Honda CRV EX and it was pretty straight forward. The inner part of the cv axel was the hardest to remove. I tried a slide hammer that I rented from Autozone and it was pretty tight and hard to use. Removed with a steel chisel and tapping it just how you did it in your video, knocked it free after 10-20 taps. Pretty easy job for the home mechanic. Torque specs for the strut bolts: 118 ft lbs and the axel nut: 181 ft lbs. Saved some cash and feels good to get it done right!
Glad it worked out for you and thanks for sharing you experience!
You sir are a bloody legend! I just changed both shafts on our 03 CRV with this as a guide. Saved me a shit ton in labour charges. Many thanks bloke.
My pleasure, congratulations and thanks for your support!
@@hardlymovingpro on mine everything is liberally rusted. Do I need to replace knuckle and everything attached to it? Or can I just change parts that need changing?
You can save money replacing one part at a time and revisit the suspension replacing what you think is another part gone bad until whatever noise and roughness disappears. But what I've experienced is new parts stress out marginal old parts and results in another failure that must be repaired. Control arm bushings, sway bar links, ball joints, struts, springs, strut mounts, strut bellows, etc. tend to wear out together (perhaps at different rates) with old, high mileage cars.
This was the best angle I’ve found, on how and where to smack this thing! Thank you!
Glad it helped!
By far the best How to video I have ever watched. You saved me $1100!!!!
Hey ... good job ... happy it worked out for you!
Thanks for the hammer and chisle tip. Went like a dream. 45 minutes and replaced. Didn't need to use the ' turn the other wheel tip'. Same procedure for HR-V 2000 by the way.
Thanks for sharing your success story!
By far the best how-to videos I've ever watched. Thank you so much.
You're very welcome!
Thank you so much. I just bought a 2006 CR-V and going over it before its annual safety inspection next month, the only thing I could find was some grease around the left hand CV boot at the wheel - it's a RH drive vehicle from Japan so that's passenger side. I thought it would be beyond my skillset to get at the boot, I've replaced rotors but never gone further removing hubs/knuckles or any suspension work. But from this video it doesn't look too much more advanced to get the wheel side of the axle free and then I can at least inspect if the boot split or whether the clamp just came loose. I'm in the middle of moving house so it's a job for next month but will look forward to it now. Cheers from New Zealand!
Good for you on your purchase! Not that big of a deal replacing the cv axle. Just follow the video.
Had another look now I'm more familiar with the setup and of course your 'passenger side' video is actually my drivers side. So I now need to watch your 'drivers side' video to see how to do my passenger side lol. Lucky for me you took the time to make both! Cheers again & good day.
Good luck!
Precise and to the point. Thanks for keeping your ego in check! Most TH-camrs ramble on....No one wants to know their favorite ice cream or political affiliation ;)
I hear you and thanks!
Right on point good tutoriao
Exactly the point. I hate videos that go off subject and who cares about their dog that chases their tails.
Awesome video!! Precise and to the point!!! All the other videos out there talk about irrelevant conversation. Love the video
I appreciate that!
Thanks for the video. It gave me the confidence to try this job myself. I also had trouble removing the CV joint at the half shaft bearing mount. What I did was loosen the bolt that holds the inner half shaft cover to the bearing mount enough to slide a punch through that space. That gave me a nice square angle to tap (well, a little more than tap) the joint out.
Thanks again!
Hey ... glad my video helped someone save some money with repairs!
I did this job today and I'm gonna let you know how I got the inner axle out of that carrier thing. The problem is that there is play that prevents your prying from being effective. I am big and I had a hard time finding good leverage anyways in that tight space.
I elevated the outer axle with a bungee cord to get it out of the way, then I took a cheap caliper piston compression tool and I positioned it so that it was pressing out from the carrier. I got it finger tight then I added a turn with a small vice grip. Then I got the same Pittsburg pry bar that he used in the video and found a spot to pry. It popped right out.
It helped that it had both steady pressure and prying. The PB blaster probably didn't hurt either. I hope this helps you. This might also work with other models.
Thanks for sharing and glad it worked out for you!
Never had a problem replace honda axles till today.spent all day trying to get that axle in.
Yea. That retention clip can hold that axle in there pretty tight.
Hardly, thank you man for posting the actual work required to get this bad boy out. People need to know it's going to take some real skin in this game to get this thing off..
Thanks. Not too difficult of a repair compared to other jobs I've done.
Thanks dude. That passenger side is a PAIN.
I had to remove the intermediate shaft to get the freaking cv axle off. All good now.
Nice work!
simple, good camera angles, amazing video
Thanks for your comment, critique and support!
This video was extremely helpful
Glad you found it useful!
When you have the right tools you can do anything
For most instances, yes.
I’m fighting the top knuckle bolt to get back into the strut assembly bar. Any tips?
try using a jack to align the bolt hole(s) vertically and push on the knuckle against the strut to get horizontal alignment.
Thank you very much, I was stumped trying to figure out how to remove the inner CV.
Glad it worked out for you!
This was honestly beautiful. So fucking concise. No bullshit. Just the job.
Thanks!
yeah the only bullshit was he used an impact tool to install an axle nut which is absolutely prohibited in ANY factory service manual because that will wreck the wheel bearing. What a riot...the video basically shows how NOT to do the repair!!!
Good replacement and install video. If a torque wrench is not available is it okay to just tighten the bolts very tight?
The axle bolt you can torque down with a breaker bar.
That feeling when the axle finally pops loose and moves a little. It's like the job is already done basically.
I hear ya!
Fantastic work
Thank you! Cheers!
This is exactly how DIY handy repair work goes! Something almost always throws a "stuck" ball at ya lol
HI, quick question, one of my CV axle is making noise. I want to diagnoise the side. so I jacked up the car both front and back wheel is away from the ground. I remove wheel on both side. I noticed one strange thing (noticed it before as well).. when i start the car, one of the CV AXLE is rotating and other one try to rotate but it doesnt .. i thought there is some issue with transmission but it is not.. it works very well. when i remove the JACK and drive on road everything is good. do you have any clue why this is happening and trick me on JACK STAND that one side is rotating but other side is not,,
It's normal for one wheel to slightly rotate while in neutral or park with the wheels off the ground.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks both of them are gear in drive mode. I was told that because of open differential it is normal to have one wheel to rotate with least resistance
Right ... and thanks for sharing!
Hello sir. Does the new CV axle needs to come with ABS inner sensor ring? TIA.😊 2004 Honda CRV
They should come with the ABS sensor ring.
This men is a cavern men, only hammer for all
Good video , a wee bit of grease on the splines would have helped you with the installation,
I agree.
Hi HMP. I have 2010 Mitsubishi Outlander ZH manual which appears to have a similar extension for the R CV axle. Just about to replace both L and R CV Axles and I think I’ll follow your method to remove the R Axle from the Extension whilst attached to the car.
Would this be consistent with your experience for the Outlander ZH 2010?
Haven't worked on a Outlander but by the way you're describing it, the right side is a split axle design where the outer portion of the axle can be separated (pryed off) from the inner axle at the bearing carrier bracket.
Thank you for your advice. Yes, it does look somewhat similar to the Honda and I’ll try prying the outer CV axle away from the Extension in a similar way to what you had kindly shown.
Thank you again for your time posting these excellent and helpful videos. They are greatly appreciated.
Kind regards.
You bet!
Great video. Next time you do a job like that, put some grease or never seize on the bolts that you re-installed. It takes a few extra seconds, and can save tons of time in the future. No need to put them in dry like that.
I usually do but I live a salt free part of the country (that is no road salt and not by the ocean).
I wouldn’t grease the strut bolts. No need to. You don’t want them coming loose. My friend had the issue where his nuts came loose on the track which caused his nuts to shrink and pull off track like a timid dog with his tail between his legs. I do not recommend grease on those nuts. I never had issue removing them.
@@hardlymovingpro I wouldn’t concern myself with that step. I live in rust belt. Never had an issue loosening those two bolts.
@@saxjonz copper slip is an anti seize and I always use it, it's not a lubricant
@@hemtet5500 yeah, I think I saw that before. Thanks for sharing.
Greetings I'm working on my 2012 Honda CRV and I can't get the full passenger side axle, please give some tips.
Don't understand your question.
Good job, but I must add a comment for anybody trying to do this at home. You should use a torque wrench when tightening the axel nut.
Yes ... for anybody trying to do this at home. But most home owners do not possess a torque wrench that measures up to 180 lbs. Moreover, from what I've seen in "professional" full service repair shops, they use an air powered impact driver, torque it down and call it a day.
@@hardlymovingpro youre right as long as the detent matches back up you should be fine but if you do have one bolt the wheel back on after its all back together so you have the weight of the vehicle to push against
How is the axle holding up? Im having a hard time deciding between NAPA axles or the cardone. However, i did read so ewhere that napa ones are just repackaged cardone ones?
Yup... You're right about NAPA except they can get from other vendors besides Cardone.
@@hardlymovingpro how are the axles so far? Im just skeptical because amazon only gives me a 30 day return window and theres no specified manufacturer warranty
You can do a warranty claim direct to the manufacturer with the Amazon receipt.
@@hardlymovingpro ok will keep that in mind! But how are your axles doing so far? any problems with them?
@@hardlymovingpro just bought em hopefully it lasts
thanks for the vid. what size socket for the axle nut? thanks
I've seen various sizes. Believe 34 to 36 mm
I tried pry bar and did not work, had to raise the car a little more for room to swing a small sledgehammer onto the axle to take it out, worked very well
Thanks for sharing and whatever it takes! 😊
Thank you this is what I was looking for.
Glad it worked out for you!
Well done! Just what I needed. Thank you!
You're welcome and thanks for your kind post!
Just woundering if i need alignment after doing this ? last year i had my alignment done by the dealer.. But woundering if i should do a alignment again, Just had mine replaced and did it this way.
It wouldn't hurt to have the alignment checked out.
Do you need to replace the transmission axle seal ?
did this include the abs ring ?
Honda's don't have abs rings. They use magnetic bearings.
Thank you very much for this video
No problem!
On my Subaru there was a pin holding in the inner CV, is there no such pin here?
I know what you're talking about. Does not exist with Toyota and Honda's to prevent the axle from coming out from the transmission.
Hi can anyone let me know, I have been having an issue with the cv axle, I followed the steps, but the axle part were its inside the bearing. Is really not coming out, it looks like there is rust in there , and is extremely hard to get out, it has no movement, does anyone know what I can do to make it come out , thank you in advance
Try using a crow bar or wedge in a chisel and apply light tips with a hammer to get the cv housing to separate.
Very good video and it also helped me a lot, even just knowing whether the big 36mm nut comes off anti-clockwise saved me some worries , keep it up thanks
You bet!
On my new ones is a 38mm
Never seen it go that large.
Thats offside right side .or is itusa
I’ve been noticing transmission fluid under my Honda CR-V and I took a look and I noticed the cv axle is soaked but above it looked dry so I would think the cv axle is bad right? Or maybe just the seals??? It also vibrates when on highway
Within one week I lost a little over a quart of transmission fluid
Trans fluid loss is usually due to a bad output shaft seal. Vibration can be caused by a number of possibilities (out of round tires, wheel balance, ball joints, control arms, etc.)
Just curious at 4:30 what was the purpose for that?
To prevent the nut from coming loose.
Very good explanation and video thank you
Thank you for watching and your support.
Hey I have a question my passenger side axle got replaced today and not even 6 blocks down it popped out again. Now my car won’t turn on it looks like the battery is dying but I’m sure it’s not my battery. Any idea why this is happening?
I'd be applying pressure to the people who installed the axle to fix it.
@@hardlymovingpro I did, but they don’t want to do anything about it. Is there anything that you could possibly think of as in why my car doesn’t turn on. I turn the key in the ignition it doesn’t turn on but there’s a faint clicking noise when I put the switch on start and the dash board lights start flickering.
@@guadalupevalencia2987 I'd say you're battery is shot. If the car starts with a jump start, then that's your problem.
I know it’s probably been asked but it looks like you didn’t need to pull the ball joint off? That would be sweet to know! I’m getting at it. Going to replace my snapped axle.
Ball joint detachment not necessary
@@hardlymovingpro less time consuming than oil change. That dreaded vibration totally gone. Thanks for sharing. I did it wiyh a broken elbow (didnt know until it broke the entire way the next day :-0. Easiest repair ever.
What if I also need to get at that output shaft seal? Does that remaining rod that goes into the trans just slip out?
Yes. The remainder of the shaft end pulls out with the expansion ring attached at the end. If you want to also replace the shaft seal, here's a video I did on a Toyota which is pretty much the same: th-cam.com/video/PFGfCs3QpXA/w-d-xo.html
@@hardlymovingpro thanks so much. Doing this job right now.
Do you need to put any grease or anything on the intermediate shaft or the male end of the axle?
Where the shaft connects to the wheel hub, a little grease will prevent future sticking.
You put the strut bolts in backwards from the way you took them out not sure if it matters but the nuts were facing the caliper and then you put them back in the opposite way
Doesn't matter but thanks for your concern. I've seen cars from the factory switch the bolts around.
Once you pop in the CV axle to the intermediate shaft, do you have to spin it? It looked like you spun the CV axle.
I only "spun" or rather turned the axle to align the axle's splines with the splines in the transmission.
How do you know it's aligned?
@@BMaes2 You will know its aligned with you can spin the intermediate shaft. Once you can spin that shaft do a couple light taps as you saw in this video and that ring will compress letting the axle on. Thanks for the video I was having a pain in the ass time getting the sucker off.
@@hardlymovingpro o have a vibration between 40 and 50mph. Engine shakes, had it up on blocks and found a bit of play on the half shaft to cv. I'm going to get a new shaft but wondered if I should change the half shaft bearing while I'm on with it. Is this worth it ?
@@logicgroup6632 Don't think so ... besides ... if you priced out half shaft bearing, it's not cheap.
How do we know when the axel is seated all the way?
Should be flush against the trans
@@hardlymovingpro i believe it is. I tried pulling it and i can feel it stuck on the o ring. After fixing my axel i have a wobble at 15-25 mph. Any thoughts.
Could be a defective replacement. Have had it happen to me with rebuilt units.
Does an alignment need to be done after, or do the 2 knuckle bolts essentially keep things in place? Once the axle shaft out, can bearing be changed on the car with pulled tokls? Thanks so much. I learn a lot from your videos. Good teacher!
A need for realignment depends on how tight the strut holes match the knuckle holes. Replacing the bearing is up to you.
ARE FRONT AXLES SAME FOR FWD AND AWD HONDA CRV'S (02-06)?THANKS AGAIN GREAT JOB...
Should be but always check by vin #.
Anybody know why the manual says to drain the transmission prior to removing the driveshafts?
Not necessary but some trans fluid might leak out.
My crv shaking only when i accelerate at low speed (5-10 mph) i think it might be an axle since one of em has grease comming out of the boots. but wouldnt it shake at every speed ? My tire are balanced and nothing is loose in front end
I bet it's the axle.
@@hardlymovingpro they look bent when i make them turn on the lift but it might only be because its not under load and they are not straight
@@hardlymovingpro they look bent when i make them turn on the lift but it might only be because its not under load and they are not straight
@@hardlymovingpro it was the axle thank you! They were shot
@@hardlymovingpro pusiste un regular a un abs
This is only possible because you have space to put a punch on the inner side of the inner joint and swing a hammer. The 07 Accord V6 has the same axle but it's impossible to swing a hammer in there. You have to use a slide hammer with a cv axle fork to pull it out.
I here you! Another technique (without using a slide hammer attached to a cv fork) is to wrap a nylon strap around the inner cv bearing cup and snap (torque) the axle out. Here's the video where I did it on a Kia Sportage:
th-cam.com/video/dHQDIml4CyM/w-d-xo.html
Question would a bad CV axle be the cause of my lug nuts and studs breaking off?
The ONLY way lug nut brakes off its stud is by the guy who rotated you tires cross threaded the nut , over torqued the nut with a impact gun shearing it off and sent you on your way hoping you didn't notice.
It would have been nice to know what size socket on that wheel nut
36mm
Hello could you tell me I have a 05 and I notice it was a hit in the right side I bought it. If I didn’t notice it that but after like 2 days later the car starting to shake like the steering wheels Shakes when driving slowing like 20 or 40
Could be a lot of stuff. Out of round tires ... bent wheel ... bent cv axle ... worn our ball joint ... worn out control ... Suggest you have a shop put it up on a lift to have it checked out.
Hardly Moving Productions well I know the tire of the front side I put it on the right rear cause it have a bubble something like that I know o gotta replace that time it looks like someone hit it on the sidewalk I replace the 2 bushing on the control arm on the front right side and the sway bar link it’s new but the one on the right one looks rare like I can move it by hand with no effort it just when I’m driving slow the front shakes like it looks the wheels want to fell out not like crazy shake but I’m feeling on the steering wheel
Could also be bad / worn out wheel bearings.
Hardly Moving Productions but I don’t hear a noise the only noise I hear it’s on the back rear tire that I put it to that side thinking that it was the tire that got hit I will take the car to get new tires and I’ll check on the lift everything
Based on your description, it seems that either the tire or wheel is ng.
Will you need to get an alignment afterwards?
Sometimes. Not need if the steering wheel isn't canted with the car driving straight.
Im bout to tackle this on my 06 Element. I'm also gonna purchase a Milwaukee Impact tool. Can you tell me which one you have and was it sufficient enough to remove the axle nut? I know the video showed it but you might have loosened it first with another tool? Thanks for posting this.
The Milwaukee M18 1/2" impact tool was the 1st Milwaukee tool that I purchased. It came with two battery packs, a re-charger and a case. It lasted over 6 years with heavy use. Now I have over a dozen M18 and M12 tools and none of them have broke down. Perhaps they're a little tired, but still running. One you get your first kit with the charger and batteries, you can add to your collection by purchasing only "bare" tools (meaning without a battery and charger).
The M18 1/2" I'd recommend is brushless and puts out over 700 lbs of torque. Should last you a good long time and you won't have any problems removing the axle nut and other big suspension nuts and bolts! Here's the link in Amazon: amzn.to/2XwX2JR
@@hardlymovingpro You sir . . . . .are awesome. Thank you for sharing your experiences.
Size of axle socket?
Don't recalled. Either 30 or 32 mm I believe.
This dude's material and name of channel is deluxe!
Thanks for the post and glad you like the channel name!
So, you didn’t torque any nuts? And align the wheels after??
Don't quite understand your question. The CV Nut and the suspension strut nuts and bolts need to be torqued down after installing the new axle. Re-alignment is generally not needed.
Thanks so much help
You bet!
Awesome!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Is there a link to the product? I can't find it
A link to the passenger side cv axle made by Cardone Select is provided in the text description of this video. Warning: don't mess with retail store brand reman axles for the CRV. Had nothing but bad luck ... excess wheel vibration ... had to return 2x ... 3rd one finally worked ... it was new and more expensive but worth it.
Do I have to get the car aline after changing the axel,and thank you
Most of the time, no.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you, why do you remove the struts instead of just taking the control arm
@@henryerivesq.106 I didn't remove the strut ... I detached the strut from the steering knuckle so that the knuckle can be "tilted" away from the cv shaft spline. Only 2 bolts! Yes ... you could do the same by detaching the lower control arm ... if you're willing to get on your back, remove the ball joint cotter pin, ball joint nut and hope that the ball joint separator tool won't damage the threads of the ball joint stud. Your choice which you think is easier ... perhaps with a lift but not on the ground. I use to do it to the control arm way but not anymore.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you so much
No grease is needed on the splines going into the steering knuckle?
Not for nothing but front axles are easy as shit to do. The midshaft can be a pain in the arse sometimes but with some patience n the right sledge u ken do itttt!!!! Lol😅.. good video tho. I do at least 6 to 8 cars a week, it's a side hustle. I can't work carpentry anymore because some anus decided to run a red light n screwed my knee up so this is what have left... Thanks to job corps... But yeah. I need to make sum videos.. 😊
Thanks for sharing!
What brand axel did you use?
Cardone
I used same method but took the ball joint off as well....less of a struggle
Whatever works! Thanks for sharing!
You didn't show where to use the Anti Seize Lubricant, or many of the other items advertized. Shouldn't you grease the spines first before assembly, Chilton's manual says to? All that doesn't hurt the intermediate bearing? Should you use a torque wrench on many of those nuts and bolts. The two bolts for the knuckle piece to strut you put in backwards.
Using Anti Seize and grease helps with future disassembly if you live in the rust belt. If not, there's no need since they don't do it at the assembly line during vehicle construction. I use powered impact tools and rarely used torque specs unless I'm doing engine rebuilds. The knuckle bolts are used as fasteners and direction of bolt insert is irrelevant.
Hey man thank u very much that was very useful thank u
You're welcome. Glad to help and thanks for your support!
Does anyone know the torque specs on these bolts?
181ft lbs on the axle nut. And 116ft lbs on the strut-to-steering knuckle bolts.
Thank you, was great Help how you show to pop out the Axle
Glad it worked out for you!
was not ease, so I Kicked it out from the Back, your Video get me the idea how it have to be done, yeps finally it worked out, Tnx
May be a stupid question but if I do one, should I do both?
Not stupid. If one side goes bad, the other side may not be far off from going bad as well.
New axle nut?
Yup ... came with the new axle.
That's real shade all you left out was how many beers it took
Non at all. Went pretty fast.
How much job cost ?
Cost of part: around $75
@@hardlymovingpro labor cost that’s it ?
Not more than 1.5 hrs labor time
I just replaced my CV axle and the hub wont turn
Location nyo po ipaparepair q din po sna ung s akin sir
1:36 Some say *do not* pry against that centre bearing on the end of the jack shaft because the aluminum housing could get damaged and in one YT video, that housing was already cracked so he had to get another one from a scrap yard: th-cam.com/video/NLcTpTLBxlI/w-d-xo.html You got it apart the right way and saved the jack shaft which is not available in the aftermarket.
That's right and at the 2:00 time mark the brass punch was used against the CV housing to push/work the shaft out.
What’s the torque specs ? For everything LOL
The videos are a guide. You need to get a Haynes repair manual with those specs.
What are you hitting it with at 2:00
@@markrodgers1965 a brass punch. You can also use a steel chisel.
It would probally be easier to remove the ball joint instead of the brake lines and crap because once that is free, the whole rotor can move enough to get the cv axle out
That technique would work nice if you had a lift. But with floor jacks, you'd be working under the car on your back which I prefer not to do.
You didn’t get a vibration on higher speed I’ve hear from
People changing their axels from aftermarket ones gets you a vibration
Not at all. It all comes down to the quality of the part. Buy from reputable name brands.
Hardly Moving Productions those that you installed ? How good are those ?
I guess it’s zero fucks on the 181 foot pounds of torque on the axle nut eh?
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Ah men!
THIS is what the dealership wanted to charge me $2600 for????
Drop the zero from the $2600 for a realistic price.
That's why they are called stealerships
Torque to spec I see
Dude looks like he is struggling to do a simple job.
Thanks for sharing! Simple for some but not for all.
hi there! what brand replacement axle did you use? seems like the OEM are really expensive but ive heard some aftermarkets are junk/not worth using.
I like the Cardone brand.
Como se que axel es para el conductor o pasajero. Cual es más grande
What size is the axle nut?
Usually 36mm
thanks
@@hardlymovingpro
You bet!
Como se que axel es para el conductor o pasajero. Cual es más grande