CNC-Engraved Aluminum Nameplates
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2019
- You asked for it! Switching away from my previous acid-etching technique, I'm now engraving my custom nameplates robotically!
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TOOLS FEATURED IN THIS VIDEO
▶ Inventables X-Carve: www.inventables.com/technolog...
▶ DeWalt 20V Max Drill & Driver Kit: amzn.to/2hLB64q
▶ Lacquer-Stik Black Fill-In Paint Marker: amzn.to/2IHjZCn
▶ 4-Inch Cotton Buffing Wheel: amzn.to/30pCbGb
▶ Pittsburgh 3/8" Letter/Number Stamping Set: amzn.to/2ikplCi
(More information down below.)
CNC DETAILS (UPDATED)
This is the updated procedure I follow now, which has changed somewhat since I published this video. Note: Your results may vary. If you have questions, please leave them in the comments. However, please understand I can't provide a lot of troubleshooting or technical support.
I'm carving 5052 aluminum in this video. I've also tried 6061, which tends to carve a little better, but I have yet to eliminate all the burring.
1. Engrave the lettering. I occasionally try a new bit, and the one I currently recommend is listed below.
▶ Triangular 60-degree V-bit: amzn.to/3iJK6J5
▶ Total Carve Depth: .003"
▶ Depth per Pass: .005" (This is the max. DPP I recommend for this bit, whatever the job.)
▶ Feed Rate: 45 ipm
▶ Plunge Rate: 30 ipm
2. Finish the surface with a light pass of the medium grade flap wheel, then a pass with the very fine grade. Don't press down, but let the wheels do the work. Working it too much can make the engraving too shallow. The following are a little pricey, but have lasted me a very long time.
▶ Abrasive Nylon Flap Wheel, Medium Grade: www.mcmaster.com/46735A44
▶ Abrasive Nylon Flap Wheel, Very Fine Grade: www.mcmaster.com/46735a43
3. Apply the lacquer stick. Note: Although I didn't show it in the video, I also follow it up with a light coat of Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Satin Clear Enamel to protect the lacquer fill.
▶ Lacquer-Stik Black Fill-In Paint Marker: amzn.to/2IHjZCn
4. Carve the holes using the helical end mill listed below.
▶ Kodiak Solid Carbide Helical End Mill for Aluminum: amzn.to/2vZo1xL
▶ Hole Diameter: .145" (for 1/8" rivets)
▶ Total Carve Depth: .045" (on .040" aluminum to ensure cutting through)
▶ Depth per Pass: .01"
▶ Feed Rate: 15 ipm
▶ Plunge Rate: 15 ipm
▶ Add ramp to toolpath: Spiral (Vectric VCarve setting)
5. Cut the nameplate profiles using the same end mill as in step 3.
▶ Total Carve Depth: .045" (on .040" aluminum to ensure cutting through)
▶ Depth per Pass: .01"
▶ Feed Rate: 30 ipm
▶ Plunge Rate: 30 ipm
▶ Add ramp to toolpath: Smooth, Distance .5" (Vectric VCarve setting)
6. Sand the edges.
SEE ALSO
▶ Acid-Etched Nameplates: • Acid Etching Aluminum ...
▶ A Better, Stronger X-Carve: • A Better, Stronger X-C...
Note: I may earn a commission from certain product links. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Perfect timing. This came up in my recommended list as I've been contemplating a CNC for guitar amp faceplates. Very nice. Thank you.
Your videos have the distinct feature (what others may not have), that even though at first glance of the video title and thumbnail I'm not interested in the subject, I still find the video in itself very fascinating and well made - enjoyable, that is.
Fantastic work, Wesley!
Cheap and easy option for the laquer stick is nail polish. Comes in variety of colors, is very cheap and has a little minibrush integrated to the bottle lid to dip it in to the valleys. After it dries in couple of minutes, wipe with a moist acetone cloth/paper all the excess and done. Holds up to machine coolants very well and it is easy to make clear signs with different colors in them :)
nail polish is one of the most expensive fluids out there.
I like how you did this video.
Quick demo and all the needed facts are neat and clean in the description. No hustle, no fuzz. 👍🏼
0axaodiamo
Amordamiavida
Looking all over the internet for metallic labels. Now I can make them myself. Great video and thanks for the link.
Im a CNC programmer/machinist. We normally use carbide 1mm ball nose endmills for engraving. Depth of only .005 - .010 thou. They cut clean using a bit of isopropyl alcohol on the surface.
"I" just use a center drill(laughs)
I do that too for part numbers. Works fine. 🤘
I have used originally ethyl alcohol for my cutting and drilling of aluminum, due to some hint and because in those days I did not have isopropyl alcohol available. Nowadays it is the other way round. I am not sure, but my feeling is that isopropyl alcohol evaporates faster, already before my first hole is done.
Used this on a project. Worked great! Thanks!
Still fun to watch. Thanks for your time.
At 2:08, I'm thinking "that is genius" because I just watched a video of you applying the lacquer stick by hand...at 2:21 I'm chuckling along with your new gained knowledge....your videos are awesome....Thank You!
Really nice job and useful technique for holding thin sheets. Must try that myself for panels and PCBs. Should massively improve the PCB flatness and give a much more consistent surface level!
A technique I used around 40 years ago to do a front panel for an amplifier I made was to black anodise the aluminium after cutting out panel holes but BEFORE engraving and to engrave through the black anodising to the bare aluminium.
It looks as good today as the day I made it! If you get a chance you should try it sometime. Basically it gives the negative of your version.
Here's a cool tip for even nicer looking name tags that I first tried over 40 years ago, on an amplifier's front and rear panels, that look as good today as when originally made.
Anodise and dye the tags, I like black, but any colour, including fading one to another then engrave through the anodising to expose the aluminium below. Looks great and no need to polish or lacquer fill afterwards.
Awesome vid in the true spirt of shared information on TH-cam. All power to you 👍🏻
Nice plates! Lacquer stick is new for me. Good job
One of the best vid. on cnc machine. Thank u for all the info down below
always informative and always entertaining! keep on keepin' on!!!!
nice job , i didnt knew these kind of crayons , looks easy to color the engraves ! We can see still having rough edges , i would personally do the engraving then the brush you used , then a second carving pass to clear it up more , maybe a second brush pass . Thanks for sharing the infos !
Love it when you show something (like the bottle of glue) for a moment, and then whip it out of the shot :D
Thank you so much for the info! Huge help!
Great video! Thats a clever idea about the foam too! I think I need one of these machines in my life!!!
You really do. It's a game changer I got mine last October almost already made the cost back just messing with it here and there. Check out inventables! They also finance through affirm.
I want one of those nameplates so badly. I've followed the simple instructions in the video. Now to keep my fingers crossed. It's just a shame I'll never make it to the Maker Faire. It sounds like an awesome experience.
This is an amazing tutorial and video, just subscribed!
Excellent description
I really have to get my Xcarve dialed in. Your videos give me some ambition. Lol
Very good information found in this video
OK. I like this. And good tip on the diy welding clamps. Subscribed.
Great video. Thanks for sharing your process. Never heard of a lacquer stick before. Mahalo! : )
thank you for good n a proper information may God bless you
Good looking plates 👍
Love your videos, very inspiring!
Awesome project, see you at maker Faire!
making me look forward to getting my shop space moved into the garage.
Beautiful
I run a multi cam router table every day. You should look into making a vacuum table to hold the metal down it works fairly well and you can always mill it flat when it gets to many mill marks in it. Also look into comic bits to do scribing projects
Great video! See you tonight!
Very good demo! Thanks - one observation: I recently noticed that on the aluminum nameplate of my 1952 Sears Craftsman table saw, they stamped the model number from the BACK side of the nameplate (using reversed or mirrored stamps?) anyway, it is different because when you look at the front of the nameplate, the model number appears with raised digits instead of sunken. Not sure why Sears did that and I'm not saying it is necessarily an improvement but I thought it interesting. They used 0.025 thick or 22 gauge for the nameplate.
You're awesome. Keep that up.
A V bit works great for engraving to, one pass and your done. Great video and thanks for sharing!
I tried a couple of V-bits previously and ended up with a mess. They may work better on a different grade of aluminum, though. I plan to keep experimenting.
Wesley Treat where do you get your aluminum, and what kind is best?
Máquina muito potente parabéns 👏👏👏
good job ,thanks for the video
Thank you
That is slick!
Nice work it's my recommended list I know about the machine how it's programming
Lindo trabalho!
Kudos for sharing useful infos
Good job! Subscribed!
That CNC Machine: “Good-bye, Mr. Bond!!” Muahahaha!
a great tip for not damaging a tip
Excellent 👍
Those look awesome .... I've got to order some lacquer sticks, I saw them for the first time just recently and I can think of dozens of ways to use them. Have fun at Maker Faire!!!
Живописный мужичок.
Hi!Nice work!!!
Nice video brother 👍👍👍
Good job 😁👍
Awesome very nice
Sweet video sir.
Cool to see how this thing I have was made! :-) Thanks!
Incredible
I use bit 1 flute spiral 3 mm or 4 mm, cuts aluminum like butter, this cut on the video, it's made in 0ne pass.
Awesome! Do you think that it works now because you upgraded or do you think it could have been done with the Stock X-Carve (I have a stock one and would like to try it some day, but if it requires an upgrade, that day might come later....)
Good Video.......Unless I missed it, it is very important to know the type of aluminum you should use. I always use 6061 aluminum, as it works great for machining. Google the various types of aluminum that are made and there uses.
Very nice!
i reaally need to get somthing like this made up! to remake some 80s/90s decals/bezels for my car!:O
I have a CNC large vertical machining center I was going to try engraving on. I like the tape and glue idea.
You only need enough holding power so the part doesn't move you can also use double sided tape then a little acitone to get it off.
Magnetic plates and vacuum plates also work well
@@skiinggator But man, a roll of tape is pretty cheap. However, your solution is best if you're going to produce a lot of parts. There would be no way to keep up production with a roll of tape.
very nice but I think it depends on the graphic, the alloy is or can be difficult with very fine work, engraving under 0.2 mm
Hi, what font did you use, and what kind of aluminum did you use and where did you get it? Thanks Tim
4:40 I have found it a bit risky to tap on the number punches multiple times like that. There's a chance that the punch will bounce and move out of alignment between the hits.
идея с "два скотча и клей" это просто и гениально, как я сам не догадался ?!
I love the foam mattress! Don't know why I didn't think of it myself, Duh!!!
Hi Wesley. Have you tried using a V bit like the 1541 60degree V bit from Whiteside. I find that it gives a nice clean cut without all the furry bits. I also just give a spray with some spray paint and leave it for a few minutes before wiping it off lightly, leaving the colour in the engraving. Works for me anyway. Cheers
Thank you 😊 sir
🇮🇳
Nicely done. Saw it on IG and thought MFBA was your take on BAMF.
Yes, but CT is not the same as AGMBF becuse their version of AM is also the version XTX did for the BAMF, VVB is original of SDRT btw..
Ohhh so you can make the enamel pins base with a cnc router.. very interesting thanks
I see the x carve in the background. I need one for my furniture business. What can you say about it?
So which result looks better at the end - the etched or the engraved? (Sorry if you told it but I haven't noticed).
Hi sir, I just bought a tool set for my own collection may I know if you have any suggestion on how to engrave my name on it?. If there any automation grinding?
What are you using for a collet on the router? Almost looks like it is magnetic
How long will a dedicated bit last carving aluminum? i.e. the .040 aluminum with they bits you used.
Wesley. Love the video I’m a complete noob looking to design something similar. I need guidance..
you can do a bit more aggressive cuts on the xcarve! also try single flute endmills, they are great because they reduce the cutting forces and cut your rpms down - you didnt make chips, its all dust wich is bad for cutter life :)
I tried more aggressive cuts with the tapered but and kept breaking tips. The helical bit produces good chips.
Yay! New vid! Sorry you couldn’t make Maker Faire down here. Maybe next year!
I think you would get a cleaner crisper result with a square end bit - everyone seems to use a tapered ball bit for everything these days. Great bits, but there are others...horses for courses. Also, it will handle deeper cuts, it’s only 1mm, 2 passes with that bit would be ample.
Hi
Great video
What the name of software do you use?
Thanks
It should be easy to make a stamp jig to hold those punches in line when you use them. That way all the numbers will always line up correctly.
Crooked gives it character.
What bit did you use for the engraving part?
obrigado
great job as always- cnc needs a little more refinement as it should look perfect for the work that you do. its tough to get good looking font !
What's best thing to colour in black on a brass plate?
Dumb Question but where did you get that collar for your router?
You should get some 60degree chamfer mills, as stated by others, you will get cleaner cuts when working in alu.
Tried it, but didn't get good results. Still experimenting.
Ur machine suprb sir
Where do you purchase the metal for these?
Eu utilizo fresa flat e e óleo lubrificante. Não fica rebarbas e a gravação fica com ótima qualidade
What exactly are these lacquer sticks and do they go by any other names? I tried searching ebay but couldn't find them.
Link in the video description. 👍
@@WesleyTreat Thank you. I always wonder why people never read the description when they ask me questions like this on my videos. And now I did the same thing. I did go through some of the comments to see if someone asked this already but why didn't I read the description..... Why.......why........
*camera slowly zooms out. A gunshot is heard echoing in the distance.
Mate make a small vacuum pad to hold that ally in place. Masking tape and glue is fine if you want to do one a day lol but vacuum pad you can change the ally out in seconds
I'm not mass producing these. 🤷♂️
That sound effect at the end is really familiar
Wesley!!! I was trying to do some work!! :D Great video as usual!
Where did you get that collet?
Nice
Nice.
Can do it in brass and steel sheets also?
Are you still doing custom engravings ??..I maybe need some stuff done 🤔