Thank You for the video. Once I finished watching the video I felt confident that this is a piece of cake job and got to work. Took me about 10 minutes to finish the job. 👍👍
I've been working through some of your videos and just did the MAF cleaning today. Even though I'm 107K miles in, they MAF sensor was extremely clean when I pulled it out. I sprayed it down with the CRC MAF cleaner, but did not notice any dirt coming off of it into my white utility sink. I guess the air filters have been doing their job! Regardless, I'm glad to check task that off my list, but will probably skip the throttle body cleaning given how clean the MAF was. Also, as another comment pointed out, I did not remove any part of the air box. I just used a stubby Phillips driver to loosen the two screws and pulled the MAF right out. There is obviously a potential to drop your screws in the abyss of the engine bay if you are klutzy, but I managed not to. Anyways, thanks for posting these videos. Going to do transfer and diff fluid changes next and then I'll be up to date. Trying to squeeze every last mile out of my JX35!
Hey, that's great news in my book. Like you said, that means the filter and air system is doing their job effectively. I am glad to see you found these videos! For the throttle body, I would add 2 things. 1. I would only fully recommend the throttle body cleaning if you notice the idle being erratic, or if the car is not running correctly, or if fuel economy is poor. 2. The problems with the throttle body is the dirt and carbon don't come from the air filter side, but the intake manifold side. So the back of the throttle plate/body is where the issue is. So a cleaning may not be out of the question. But if your fuel econ is good and the JX runs well, you can hold off for now for sure. Great to see you are doing the diff and transfer case too. I saw your other comment there and responded too. I really appreciate the support. Thanks.
Just wanted to thank you so much for your great video ! It was very helpful in my task with my GMC Terrain ! Cleaned mine and put it back Couldn’t have attempted without your expertise! Thanks
I know. But it would have been much harder to film with the MAF facing inwards. And people like you and I are resourceful with this stuff, but I make videos for anyone, focused on novices. Those MAF bolts are easy to strip if at the wrong angle. This makes it easier for the novice to see what they're doing and minimize creating a bigger issue. I've seen 'pros' mess up. So this extra 2 mins process can save a lot of headaches for those who don't know
Thank you this help me out… it was easy to follow, just in the future how long did you wait till putting the sensor back? But otherwise it was good info.
You're very welcome. And I'll definitely add that tip for future videos (f.y.i. you don't need to wait long, about 10 mins at the most). Happy to hear the video was helpful!
thanks for sharing i know drive it 20 miles for to reset it self if check engine light doesn't go off need to check see if mass air flow needs to replace
One of the most informative and genuine guidance videos! Dear, I have recently got a Jx35 2013, things are fine so far, but while driving the IBA OFF lights comes on, and never go back again, I can't cruise once this light is on, the IBA switch under the steering blinks, I press it and nothing happens. Even when I disable it from the driver's aid menu, still the same problem occurs. can you please comment..?
Thanks, much appreciated. If the IBA Off notice is coming up, then either there is something blocking the sensor (which is in the front bumper area). Just dirt or some leaves is enough to block the sensor. If the sensor is all clear, then the issue is likely either a bad sensor or a software issue (software is not very likely though). Check the sensor first for sure. Hope this helps
@@NexusAuto Thanks a lot, highly appreciated !!! I will clean the sensor area and check if it still happens, In case of a bad sensor, does it take a lot of time to replace it..?
@@ashfaqkhatri5838 No problem at all. The sensor doesn't take a lot of time to replace, but it is pricey, and there could be other things wrong, like the combination meter(which is on the dash cluster) or the ADAS control unit. Either of these are pricey parts, last I checked. So if the sensor is all clear, make sure to test (or get someone to test if you are not handy with a multimeter and scanner) and see what part has failed. It would suck to invest in a new sensor, and it's not even the issue.
@@NexusAuto Thanks a lot! I learned 2 new things today, a Combination meter and ADAS Control unit, I am gonna take the car to my friend who can scan it, I hope things get too pricey. Thanks once again!
@@ashfaqkhatri5838 no problem at all. Gotta love vehicle electronics! Some cars out there have so many sensors and modules! Hopefully your friend finds the issue and it's a cheap fix. Good luck!
Hello. I can't find a knock in the front suspension. Changed shock absorbers. Stabilizer bars. Silent block of levers. Upper shock absorbers. It still knocks. Can you suggest something? Infiniti jx35. Thank you🙏
Unfortunately, I can's answer that, as there is so many things that can make a noise. But based on what you changed, I would say check the upper strut mounts, the stabilizer bar bushings, and the motor mounts. I have seen those wear out on those vehicles. Otherwise, it could be anything. It just take one worn bushing to make some noise.
Man thank you for this video! Going to try this, this coming weekend. Question do you know if he helps out with gas usage? I am burning too much gas, in a short amount of time. 93 isn’t cheap, it’s $5.29 here.
Thanks, appreciate it. TO answer your question, it could potentially, but not 100%. Depends on how bad the MAF was. If it was really dirty or contaminated, it will bring down your fuel econ, so cleaning it would help. But all depends
Hello Nexus Auto very nice explanation all the videos like it.I have a question is 2013 infinity jx35 a/c compressor have this or comes with“ compressor pressure control solenoid valve “ valve. Kindly reply will be greatly appreciated
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. The 2013 JX35 (which is the car in this video) has a MAF sensor, but this has very little to do with the AC. It is more for the air going into the engine for combustion. There is also a Refrigerant Pressure Sensor for the AC system as well.
Thanks for the reply I missed one question is this suv the A/c compressor clutch driven or not.pardon my question I am not a mechanic trying to learn how things work
@@mgvarghese No problem at all on the questions, and I always like to hear about people learning about their car! The AC compressor is clutch driven. If you take a look at your AC compressor (it is the front pulley, facing the front of the engine) and you will see the clutch engaging and disengaging when the AC is on.
Possibly. If the light is on, there can be a few causes, including a dirty air filter or throttle body. Even a bad wiring harness can cause a code to come up. So if those things check out, then you can look at replacing the MAF
Hey Bro!! Thank you so much for all the videos you posted!! I did all my DIY maintenance for my 2013 JX35.. for the past 3 years now.. it did save me a lot from going to the dealership for service. The CVT fluid, changing engine oil, brake pads and etc.. I learned it all from your videos. Thank you so much. I have question though, where can I get the repair manual for my 2013 JX35.. Please if you can tell me .. where to get one .. I really appreciate.. by the way my recent service to Infiniti service for Changing my 6 sparks plug it did cost $1,200 US .. it is really a rip-off but I need to change it because it was long overdue and I wasn’t confident to do it yet myself.. I did look your videos but I find it complicated.. hopefully next time. Please let me know where I can get the repair manual 2013 JX35. Thank you Again - Ernesto- MD, USA
Hey Ernie! Damn, that's awesome. I'm really glad to hear that these videos helped you out. Really appreciate the feedback and support. Honestly, I don't have a direct answer for the service manual. I actually signed up to an Nissan/Infiniti group a few years ago. It was about $60 for the year, and they offered the full manual, included. However, it seems that website is no longer worked. There are others (like Nicoclub), but I haven't used them. A potential good option is a website called Alldata. They are around $60 a year(per vehicle) and you get access to a lot of data for the JX35. Here is a link to check them out www.alldata.com/diy-us/en/diy-repair-information Whoa...I didn't realize Infiniti was charging that much for plugs...absolutely ridiculous. That's a rip off for sure, but that's dealerships these days. I get it...it's one of the most complicated plug jobs I've ever done. I'm with you..hope you get there one day. It takes time, but at the rate you're going, I think you will. Thanks again for the support. Keep watching, more videos will come in the future too
@@NexusAuto thank you for reply. I do keep watching your channel. I learned a lot of DIY for my car … my neighbor was even surprised when I’m doing it myself in my garage for my 7 seaters ( 3 kids) JX35 Infiniti.. .. so he asked me where did I learn how to do it .. I said. YOuTube . .( Nexus Auto Channel) .. .. lol.
Great video, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Btw, how do you personally find the build quality of JX35? I read they are plagued with problems, especially the transmission.
No problem at all. Overall build quality is very good. Like any car, there are a few small uncommon issues, but overall, I think they are well built body-wise and the 3.5L is excellent. That being said, there is 2 very big Achilles heels to this vehicle...the CVT transmission (as you know) and the transfer case, if you have an AWD model (which is most models). These 2 things alone make them problematic vehicles. If the CVT and the transfer case are services very regularly, they seem to last. But they are overlooked often by owners, so it's a gamble purchasing one. So far, my JX has been awesome, personally
@@NexusAuto Thank you for the prompt response, it's greatly appreciated. very good to hear your feedback as I have recently purchased one. There is detailed maintenance history except for the last 30k. Now, I can only hope that CVT and TC are not affected within that timeframe. Do you by any chance have a mechanic shop in Toronto? I understand you are from Canada :)
@@ilijatodorovic8737 no problem at all! Sounds like your model was well taken care of overall. I would say if there is not TC or CVT service history, arrange for a TC flush and CVt drain and fill. I am in Toronto! Unfortunately, my shop is closed at this time as I had another job opportunity come up. But if I were still open, I would have invited you to come by
While anything is possible (I've seen very weird things in cars lol), they should not be related. P0101 is an o2 sensor code, and C1130 is an ABS signal code. They are independent systems and shouldn't be connected. So while I can't confirm for sure from here, it does look like you have 2 issues, unfortunately
You may have to do a throttle body relearn, but not always. I've done a few of these, and never needed to do it...the QX60 will relearn on its own. But if your Mass Air Flow sensor was really bad or failed entirely, you may have to do the relearn
So, I put a brand new mass air sensor in, but it still shudders, and going up hill sometimes won't even accelerate, and the check engine light came back on, code is for the mass air flow sensor.
Hmmm. There could be a few causes. 1. The new MAF could be bad. Wouldn't be the first time I've gotten a defective part. 2. The connector could be bad or corroded 3. The wiring itself could be corroded or damaged. It happens 4. You may need to do a relearn/reprogram/reflash. You can try this video, sometimes it will do the trick th-cam.com/video/2gkjBXIGqbE/w-d-xo.html Keep in mind, after this, it will change how the vehicle responds...it'll feel different for sure 5. Check your air filter 6. You may need an ecm reprogram from the dealership. I've seen all these issues come up, and not in this order (check the air filter first, if you haven't already). Hope this helps out
@MABZ0180 unfortunately, there is so many things that could be the cause of a check engine light, I couldn't even tell you. If you can get it scanned and get me the code, I can let you know the potential causes or what to look for
@@NexusAuto well it is because of gas that is what the mechanic said he was like if it comes back again put fuel injector cleaner... what do you think?
@@MABZ0180 I didn't see the code, so I couldn't say what the mechanic diagnosed is accurate. But I can tell you it's possible for bad gas to give a check engine light. So it's definitely a possibility. Many times, if bad gas was the cause, it's a one time thing and it won't come back. Fingers 🤞🏾 for you that it doesn't.
Hello. Sometimes you do, depending on how bad the MAF was. First, you can try this technique in the video th-cam.com/video/2gkjBXIGqbE/w-d-xo.html If the car still feels off, you may need to have an Idle Relearn done, which would be done at the dealership with their computer system.
Does the metal part go toward the front or back. Some people say it goes in one way but mine fits in either way. I tried to zoom in but I couldn't really tell. Thanks!
Hello Sir hope you are in good health.I have a infinity jx35 2013.this is the month of inspection.engine light shows four days ago.I did not see that you changing oxygen sensors.if there is any videos notifying me will be greatly appreciated thanks.All videos are great learning a lot
Hello, I'm doing well, and I hope it's the same for you. Sorry to hear about the check engine engine light...that sucks. Unfortunately, I don't have a video on the O2 sensors at this time.
You sure can. I would only warn to be careful with the screws. They are fairly soft and easy to strip the head. And when putting the screw back it, it's possible to cross-thread. If you're careful, you can completely bypass unhooking the box
@@NexusAuto, This is amazing! I have 171,000 miles and need to change the rear clutch. They say that even after replacing the clutch, it also needs to be registered in the ecu, since there were different modifications.
@@yegorcheck That's understandable for sure. From what I can see, it can only be done with 'CONSULT", which is the interface system Nissan/Infiniti uses in their shops. I don't see any other way around that. Or if there is, i'm not aware of it, unfortunately.
Honestly, I have never installed one on this vehicle, so could not say for sure. Generally speaking, I know many I spoke with say catch cans are a good idea for direct injection engines, but I think there are people with far more experience with them than I have who can answer that for sure. Sorry I couldn't answer.
Tell us when you have the part #. I have started hearing a low grumble at low speeds and rpm’s. I thought it was transmission but my wife said it sounds like an exhaust leak. A few weeks ago I did the oil and trans fluid and I saw what’s left of a heat shield hanging. I tried to bend it around to get it off but it was still connected. I think I might do it myself but we will see.
@@chrisshore9000 I actually have the part already. I went aftermarket. I can get you the OEM part number if you want. Depends on your year. For 2014-17, it is 20020-9NB0B. For 2017 and up, it is 200A0-9PJ0A. Not sure what the change in them are, since they look pretty much the same. Maybe something was changed in the catalyst? It is definitely doable. But some of the bolts will need head to get them moving, and the back ones may need to be cut off (unless you're lucky). Make sure you have all the needed hardware if you do give it a go. If you do, let me know how it goes
@@NexusAuto cool, I was looking aftermarket too. It’s not like it needs to last another 10yrs lol. I don’t think it gets too hard until you get to the cats (last words). Hopefully whatever I do it, a week later I’ll probably get a code for one of the cats lol. I have a 2014 150k miles.
@@chrisshore9000 LOL exactly. I will tell you I have replaced mine once before, but at the time, was unable to make a video. It was from a company named FVP. It lasted all of 2 years and the flex pipe broke. Keep in mind, I am in Canada and have a lot of road salt and stuff, but there is no reason it should have failed so quickly. So I would stay away from them. But generally, there is little problem with the aftermarket units. HAHA, hopefully you don't get any new codes after changing it. But you know how car repair goes...
Hello I had a question I watched your video on changing and removing the spark plugs and coils and once I got to the throttle body I rounded off the lower right bolt now I have no idea how to get it out so I can continue the process of removing the plugs and coils do you have any suggestions
Damn, sorry to hear that. I have a recommendation, it will need a bit of investment into a new tool (not too expensive though) There is a tool called a bolt extractor. It comes in a kit. It's around $30 and up. Here is a link to one as a visual reference (not endorsing this brand though) www.amazon.com/Impact-Remover-Extractor-Storage-Stubborn/dp/B087P5GKFK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=bolt+extractor+set&qid=1643383231&sprefix=bolt+extr%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMTQ3OEtYNVpBWEQ0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTkwNTkwM0tKS0cyNjFDWUxYQSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDYxMDI1M0RPWlVBVjRWVFhZSSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= It's just a socket, so put it on your ratchet and the teeth will grab the rounded head. A few things 1. Make sure to get a replacement bolt first. May have to go to junkyard or dealer. If you go to the junkers, keep in mind a 2013 and up Nissan Pathfinder will have the same bolts 2. Don't use a gun. Go by hand. And use moderate pressure on the bolt to get it to grab the rounded head 3. Those bolts are thin, and should not have a lot of torque to them. Be cautious when loosening the rounded one...you do not want to have it snap inside the throttle body. And don't let this comment scare you, it is just cautionary. Just stick to moderate strength use and it should be fine. It it feels like you need to put a lot of elbow grease into it, something else may be wrong there. Hope this helps.
Trans Input/Output Vehicle Speed Sensor Do you know the locations of those sensors I’ve been looking into it and can’t find nothing on them I haven’t called the dealership and they was no help 😪
@@orlandomoreno348 I hear you there. Dealers don't want to give that info out. The speed sensor is located on top of the transmission. You need to remove the air duct and air box to really get to it.
Have you ever made a video on changing or cleaning the VVT solenoids on a JX35? No one seems to be able to tell me where they are located so I can change or clean them and get rid of this P0021 error code!
Unfortunately, I did not make a video or clean the VVT solenoids myself. I did get some info for you. They are located on the right side of the engine, right at the timing cover. One is fairly easy to get to, the other is much more intensive. First, I found a video to just give you some orientation on it. It's an older Maxima, and the VVTSs are slightly differing on these cars, but this should give you an idea of where they are. th-cam.com/video/7iGXyA4BTpY/w-d-xo.html Here are the instructions on removing them., Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve (LH, FRONT) 1. Remove the front air duct. 2. Remove coolant reservoir hose and tank. 3. Remove the washer fluid reservoir filler neck. 4. Disconnect intake valve timing control solenoid valve harness connector. 5. Remove intake valve timing control solenoid valve and O-ring from intake valve timing control cover. Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve (RH,REAR) 1. Remove the front air duct. 2. Remove the engine room cover. 3. Remove coolant reservoir hose and tank. 4. Remove the washer fluid reservoir filler neck. 5. Remove electric power steering oil pump and bracket. 6. Support engine using suitable tool. 7. Remove upper engine mount and bracket. 8. Disconnect intake valve timing control solenoid valve harness connector. 9. Remove intake valve timing control solenoid valve and O-ring from intake valve timing control cover Make sure to get new O-rings too. Installation is just the reverse. That rear one looks like it is harder to get to. I haven't done it myself as of now, so I don't know of any workarounds or tips. But hopefully this gives you some direction on it.
This is a hard thing to say. There is so many things that can cause this, from the engine management system (throttle, ignition, misfire) to the transmission, to even an ABS issue. Without the car here, I cannot diagnose it. If you don't have any check engine light codes or anything to work with, you should get the car diagnosed.
No, unless there is an error (like with the throttle body), you should not need to clean anything else. You may have to do a relearn. Not always, but sometimes. If you put the new MAF sensor in, and the car runs rough or the check engine light comes on, you may need to do that th-cam.com/video/2gkjBXIGqbE/w-d-xo.html But I have not had to do this yet
Thanks for the video I always consult your video if I need any help with my qx60 2014. Right now I noticed my steering fluid is low I went to dealership and bought steering fluid. I surprised they gave me transmission fluid instead when I noticed and asked sales person he said there is no difference and I can add atf oil. My question is it safe to mix pink atf oil to my powersteering tank?
Thanks for the support! It's much appreciated! Hmmm. Your question is a tricky one, and I honestly don't know the answer directly. I can tell you for regular hydraulic power steering fluid, it used to interchange easily with ATF (particularly Dexron III). That was a very common thing to do was swap Fluids way...did it lots of times on older cars. But these QX60s use a proprietary 'E-PSF' that is a different viscosity level to regular ATF. EPSF is a thinner fluid (to not put too much pressure on the electric motor). The problem is there is many types of ATFs out there, with different levels of viscosity. I definitely don't know them all off the top of my head. So I'm not sure what type of ATF they gave, and what viscosity it is. I can tell you that even in these cars, as long as the ATF they gave you is not a thicker viscosity to the EPSF, it can take ATF no problem. The issue isn't the type of fluid, but viscosity. I know it's not a direct answer, but hope it helps.
@@NexusAuto thank you very much. My thought from the dealership they know their car much but it was strange when they have specific oil why they gave atf but thank you very much for your time and quick response.
@Raees Akhtar no problem at all, and I completely agree with you. I would hope the dealership would know their product enough to know if that particular ATF would be good for your vehicle or not. Still weird...it's not like there is a E-PSF shortage or anything. But I would hope they know what they're doing.
Great video. My wife's '17 QX60 is hard starting at times and/or then a rough idle at first and then is fine. Does not do it all the time. No check engine light. Has about 60K miles. I have changed filters so was going to try this. Any other suggestions?
Thanks, much appreciated. This is definitely worth doing. I would also say to clean the throttle body. It is more in depth for sure, but it is a common issue. I can't say for sure that this will fix your issue, but the MAF and Throttle Body are very common issues.
@@NexusAutowill this also be from radiator cooling fan?(lack of power) Because I did the maf but not throttle yet, its still lacking power but is way better, however Nissan service said I needed a fan. I have one, hopefully I can find the video on that as well. It was my first time working on a vehicle yesterday. And your videos are the greatest I've ever seen. And I've watched a lot. So Thanks a lot!
@brendacalderon9445 unfortunately, I don't have a video on the fan at this point. But it can cause lack of power. You shouldn't notice it at the beginning, but as the QX heats up and has insufficient cooling, it will lose power. Keep an eye on that temp gauge and make sure it doesn't overheat I really appreciate that feedback too! Thank you for watching, and happy to hear they're helpful!
If a dirty MAF is the cause of the Check Engine Light, yes. But it will take driving for a bit for the car to clear the code itself, and sometimes it still won't until you clear it with a ODBII reader. But all depends on the cause of your code
Unfortunately, I couldn't even provide help without know what code you were getting. You would need to find out the code before I can even begin to give advice
It can, possibly. Unfortunately, there are quite a few things that can cause a P2096, but a dirty MAF could be one of them. Since this is a low-cost repair, I would say to try it. Worse case scenario, it doesn't fix your P2096. (Note, a MAF that has failed can cause this too, so cleaning the MAF may not be the fix, but replacing the MAF may be). Try cleaning it for sure
This is really good and thanks for the detailed instructions. By the way, do you have videos for changing/flushing the qx60 electric power steering fluid? Thanks,
No problem at all. Funny enough, a few people have been asking about this recently. I have no plans to change the power steering fluid at this point, but I may make a video since it's requested often. But no plans at this point. If I do, it may be a couple of months from now.
@@NexusAuto where is your physical auto shop in Mississauga? Not sure you have a phone number somewhere for me to book an appointment with you. I am in Toronto, thanks
@@brucebruce5661 hey! A fellow Torontonian! I don't have a physical shop...I work on cars at home. Unfortunately, due to current comments, I haven't been doing much work on cars (which is also why there hasn't been any new recent videos).
Hey nexus great video and much appreciated your work!!! I have a 2015 Infiniti QX60 I changed the MAF but still after running the car for 2 hours the RPM is up and down, also the OBD says P0101 mass air flow sensor circuit and performance also come up with P0171 & P0174 any suggestion what to further do? The rpm is revving up and down and on idle goes either around 1000 or drop down to 500!!!
Whoa! That's quite a bit of flux in the idle! There is a few things to consider here. So to confirm, did you clean the MAF, or replace it entirely? There may be a chance that the throttle needs to be relearned. Did you clear the codes and they came back? Or did you run the car and see if they will clear on their own? Did you check the air filter and clean the throttle body?
@@NexusAuto thanks 🙏 for the reply, yes I changed the MAF with a brand new one, I changed the air filter, I dud not clean the throttle just visual inspected that it’s okay 👍 I cleared the codes with an OBD but they are still coming back the same as previous! How do I reprogram the throttle?
@@mikevladu9420 Ok sounds good. Sounds like you did everything I would have done, but the issue is still persisting, hmm. First, try the relearn. Here is my video on it th-cam.com/video/2gkjBXIGqbE/w-d-xo.html This will change how the car operates. Throttle response and engine behavior will change, and the car will readapt to how yiou drive. Also, the engine does a relearn over time on its own, but this is a quick way to do it. If this doesn't work, there may be a bigger issue going on. I would say to check the MAF wiring harness to make sure it is secure and it doesn't have any damage or corrosion inside at the connectors. If you're handy with a multimeter, you can check the voltage at the connector. It should be 5v. Beyond that, there is possibly something else that that is affecting the MAF circuit, like a vacuum or intake leak, or wiring failure for the MAF sensor
@@NexusAuto I did the relearning throttle procedure (very good procedure easy to follow!!!!👍) but now change still same codes and check engine light 💡!!!! I will start by replacing the engine air intake hose between the air filter box and throttle and check all the vacuum hoses too….hope to find the what’s wrong!! P0174 says too lean so my OBD shows too much air so I hope to get to the roots of the problem!!! Thank vert much you for your support!!!! 🙏
It could be one of the causes for P0101, and the easiest thing to try first. If you try cleaning the MAF and the issue is not resolved, there may be something else going on, like a issue with the MAF, the connection, a power or ground issue. ,
Unless you completely soaked it, it should be fine. Even if you did drench it in cleaner, as long as you leave it to drive, it should theoretically be ok. Hopefully it gave you no issues.
Hi - Thanks for the great videos. I have a 2013 JX 35. I had a P0101 coupled with a P0430. Aftet clearing the codes, the P0430 mysteriously went away while P0101 came back. I replaced the MAF sensor with an OEM one. All codes cleared and I even passed the DMV inspection. However, the P0101 came back 2 weeks after the inspection. I cleared it and it came back (very stubborn sucker :-) Also the P0430 is showing pending. Any insights on what I should do next?
Hmmm. Hard to say without being there. But I can help with some info. P0430 shows pending means that, since the code was last cleared, the car has detected an error, but only once. The JX is basically waiting to see if the error comes back again. Common issues I've seen with both these codes aside from the MAF, is a really dirty/obstructed air filter, and also an intake hose or vacuum leak. That is harder to find, unfortunately. But I would start by checking the air filter (if you haven't already) and checking for any air leaks..may sound like a 'hiss' or 'woosh' noise
@@pappe4300 ok cool on the air filter. One less thing to worry about. Appreciate the offer but I'm in Canada. If I were in NJ, would have told you to come by
@@NexusAuto too bad, you are too far. P0430 went away. I am stuck with the P0101. Definitely not the sensor, nor the air filter. Must be hose issue or reprogramming of ECM that dealer doesn't want to do without another service
Well I have another Delema on the grand prix I'm sorry this is the only way I know how to get a hold of you but I was doing a simple crank sensor but I might of messed up my keyway on the crankshaft by putting the harmonic balancer on wrong is that possible if so what's my choices that's and is there some way I can chat or something need help thanks
Hey. Sorry, this is the only way to contact me at this point. But I do check daily and answer all questions (but I only check once a day, so keep that in mind) That sucks with the balancer and the keyway. If the keyway was not lined up with the balancer, you definitely can damage or break it the keyway, and the car may even run a bit rough (vibration). Did you pull off the balancer again and check the key? That would be the first choice. It is also possible that the keyway may still be intact. Check that out first. If it broke, you will need to pull the remaining bit out from the crankshaft. (magnet or plies...it can be tricky). And it would then need to be replaced. But I would say to pull it off first and check the status of your balancer and the keyway
@@NexusAuto I just grinded it down just enough for the balancer to slip around it so it's a tight fit trying to get that keyway out to expose it more you have to take alternator tension pulley water pump and timing chain cover off damn
You would be correct, that seems too low. Voltage output should be at 0.9-1.2V at idle, 1.6-1.9V at 2400RPM. Air flow should be 2.0-6.0 g/s at idle, 7.0-20.0 g/s at 2500 RPM.
No problem at all! Only ways to reset the check engine light is to either have it cleared with an ODBII reader, or if you drive for a while, the car will eventually clear the code, but that can take some time
For sure. It's a low cost attempt, and often times, it is just a dirty sensor. If you clean it, clear the code p0101 and drive around. If it does come back, could be the MAF, wiring, or possibly (but rarely) the ECM may need a reprogram (dealer only thing). But p0420 is a different thing altogether. That is something with the o2 sensor or possibly fuel system. MAF may have a little effect on that, but you may a different issue there
@@NexusAuto I am getting p0101 & p0420 on my jx35 with 120k on it. P0420 came and went on its own 2x. I used Catclean each time thinking it was just getting dirty. Now I got both of these codes together today and my car is idling really rough, to the point I thought it was going to shut off and while trying to make it home it was like it slipped its gear and then picked it up again a few times.
@@stephanieworthington8778 Hi. This is a tricky one, as there are so many variables here. First thing is, these codes could equally be related to each other, or they could be 2 separate issues within the same system. So really, the best thing to do is to test the system or get it tested. But i'll definitely give a few things to look at. You may have done this already, but have you checked your air filter? If it is REALLY clogged, it can throw both of these codes. It's worth looking at this first, since it costs nothing and it may contribute to the issue for sure. Next up, listen around the intake system for any high pitch whistles, or suction noises. Check for any breaks or cracks. There may be a leak in the intake system...this would cause both codes to come up. Next, I would have said to clean the MAF, but you already indicated doing that. So really, this is where a scan tool needs to be hooked up to the car and MAF functionality, O2 functionality, fuel/spark/timing can be checked, to see which areas are out of spec. The problem is, especially with P0420, everything from a bad o2 sensor, catalytic converter, spark plug(s), injector(s), timing, etc can cause it. And it would not make sense to start changing parts. So scanning is the next best bet. My *guess* is the MAF is not reading properly at all and should be replaced, but testing should confirm this first. Hope this helps.
@@NexusAuto Thank you so much for your reply. I have my own OBD2 and app to read. Not a Techs version, but I can look at the systems when it's running. Since the first 2 codes popping up I parked it until I could take a look. Yesterday I had to move it in my driveway and it popped all new codes and acted like it was going to shut off & did not want to go forward at first. I saved the scans to show the shop. They are P0171, P0174, P0101 P0868. No P0420, but I had cleared that after the Catclean and only the P0101 wouldn't clear. After driving it 30mins, I filled up, drove home and parked. It's a mess...I will check the air filter, clean MAF & Throttle body to see if it helps. At this point I don't believe I could even drive it to a shop. Just weird that it all started Fri afternoon when I started it to leave work. Ran great before that, except the P0420 popping 2x over last 6mo. Stayed on few days and would go off on its own. Thus me trying the Catclean each time incase it was getting dirty.
@@stephanieworthington8778 that's awesome! I always love hearing of people taking their vehicle into their own hands, to any degree. Happy to hear you are on top of these things. No problem at all on the response. Definitely check out those few things first (air filter, MAF clean, etc). The P0868 is a different thing altogether. That has to do with the transmission...which may explain the JX not wanting to move forward. This is not normally a good side for the transmission, as much as I hate to say it. I would avoid driving the car until this is looked into, as this can lead to the CVT overheating. But your slipping issues are likely due to this. The P0171 and P0174 are highly likely to be related to P0101. It definitely further indicates either a major intake leak somewhere, or a failed MAF sensor. Cleaning, as you mentioned before, is definitely worth a try again, but it may need to be replaced. There can be other causes too, as I mentioned before, but all 4 codes, including the previous P0420, all have intake leaks or MAF as related issues. So I would definitely start there.
Thank You for the video. Once I finished watching the video I felt confident that this is a piece of cake job and got to work. Took me about 10 minutes to finish the job. 👍👍
No problem at all. Really happy to hear the video helped out! Awesome!
I've been working through some of your videos and just did the MAF cleaning today. Even though I'm 107K miles in, they MAF sensor was extremely clean when I pulled it out. I sprayed it down with the CRC MAF cleaner, but did not notice any dirt coming off of it into my white utility sink. I guess the air filters have been doing their job! Regardless, I'm glad to check task that off my list, but will probably skip the throttle body cleaning given how clean the MAF was. Also, as another comment pointed out, I did not remove any part of the air box. I just used a stubby Phillips driver to loosen the two screws and pulled the MAF right out. There is obviously a potential to drop your screws in the abyss of the engine bay if you are klutzy, but I managed not to. Anyways, thanks for posting these videos. Going to do transfer and diff fluid changes next and then I'll be up to date. Trying to squeeze every last mile out of my JX35!
Hey, that's great news in my book. Like you said, that means the filter and air system is doing their job effectively. I am glad to see you found these videos!
For the throttle body, I would add 2 things. 1. I would only fully recommend the throttle body cleaning if you notice the idle being erratic, or if the car is not running correctly, or if fuel economy is poor. 2. The problems with the throttle body is the dirt and carbon don't come from the air filter side, but the intake manifold side. So the back of the throttle plate/body is where the issue is. So a cleaning may not be out of the question. But if your fuel econ is good and the JX runs well, you can hold off for now for sure.
Great to see you are doing the diff and transfer case too. I saw your other comment there and responded too. I really appreciate the support. Thanks.
@@NexusAuto Thank you for posting these videos.
Just wanted to thank you so much for your great video !
It was very helpful in my task with my GMC Terrain !
Cleaned mine and put it back
Couldn’t have attempted without your expertise!
Thanks
Thanks a lot man I have never done nothing like this a day in my life and I was able to do this because of this video
That's awesome news. Glad to hear the video helped out. Thanks for watching and the great feedback
First ! already cleaned with new plugs )) and u dont need to remoove the housing to take out MAF sorry ) just the right tool
I know. But it would have been much harder to film with the MAF facing inwards. And people like you and I are resourceful with this stuff, but I make videos for anyone, focused on novices. Those MAF bolts are easy to strip if at the wrong angle. This makes it easier for the novice to see what they're doing and minimize creating a bigger issue. I've seen 'pros' mess up. So this extra 2 mins process can save a lot of headaches for those who don't know
Thank you this help me out… it was easy to follow, just in the future how long did you wait till putting the sensor back? But otherwise it was good info.
You're very welcome. And I'll definitely add that tip for future videos (f.y.i. you don't need to wait long, about 10 mins at the most). Happy to hear the video was helpful!
Excellent tutorial! Got the job done nicely.No more codes.
Thanks! Awesome news! Happy to hear those codes are gone
thanks for sharing i know drive it 20 miles for to reset it self if check engine light doesn't go off need to check see if mass air flow needs to replace
You got it. Happy to hear the video will be helpful as well
One of the most informative and genuine guidance videos! Dear, I have recently got a Jx35 2013, things are fine so far, but while driving the IBA OFF lights comes on, and never go back again, I can't cruise once this light is on, the IBA switch under the steering blinks, I press it and nothing happens. Even when I disable it from the driver's aid menu, still the same problem occurs. can you please comment..?
Thanks, much appreciated.
If the IBA Off notice is coming up, then either there is something blocking the sensor (which is in the front bumper area). Just dirt or some leaves is enough to block the sensor. If the sensor is all clear, then the issue is likely either a bad sensor or a software issue (software is not very likely though). Check the sensor first for sure.
Hope this helps
@@NexusAuto Thanks a lot, highly appreciated !!! I will clean the sensor area and check if it still happens, In case of a bad sensor, does it take a lot of time to replace it..?
@@ashfaqkhatri5838 No problem at all. The sensor doesn't take a lot of time to replace, but it is pricey, and there could be other things wrong, like the combination meter(which is on the dash cluster) or the ADAS control unit. Either of these are pricey parts, last I checked. So if the sensor is all clear, make sure to test (or get someone to test if you are not handy with a multimeter and scanner) and see what part has failed. It would suck to invest in a new sensor, and it's not even the issue.
@@NexusAuto Thanks a lot! I learned 2 new things today, a Combination meter and ADAS Control unit, I am gonna take the car to my friend who can scan it, I hope things get too pricey. Thanks once again!
@@ashfaqkhatri5838 no problem at all. Gotta love vehicle electronics! Some cars out there have so many sensors and modules! Hopefully your friend finds the issue and it's a cheap fix. Good luck!
Thank you so much for your video
No problem at all.
Thank you so kindly, great work Nexus Auto.
Thanks, much appreciated. Glad to see the video is helpful!
Awesome!
Thanks!
Hello. I can't find a knock in the front suspension. Changed shock absorbers. Stabilizer bars. Silent block of levers. Upper shock absorbers. It still knocks. Can you suggest something? Infiniti jx35. Thank you🙏
Unfortunately, I can's answer that, as there is so many things that can make a noise. But based on what you changed, I would say check the upper strut mounts, the stabilizer bar bushings, and the motor mounts. I have seen those wear out on those vehicles. Otherwise, it could be anything. It just take one worn bushing to make some noise.
Man thank you for this video! Going to try this, this coming weekend. Question do you know if he helps out with gas usage? I am burning too much gas, in a short amount of time. 93 isn’t cheap, it’s $5.29 here.
Thanks, appreciate it.
TO answer your question, it could potentially, but not 100%. Depends on how bad the MAF was. If it was really dirty or contaminated, it will bring down your fuel econ, so cleaning it would help. But all depends
@@NexusAuto bet. Thanx again for responding. Really appreciate it. I’ll let you know how it goes this weekend.
@@JHolla20 no problem at all. Keep me posted for sure
Thanks for sharing. It's very helpful.
No problem at all! Glad it helps out
Very helpful. Thanks
No problem!
Thanks for the video!
No problem.
Hello Nexus Auto very nice explanation all the videos like it.I have a question is 2013 infinity jx35 a/c compressor have this or comes with“ compressor pressure control solenoid valve “ valve. Kindly reply will be greatly appreciated
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. The 2013 JX35 (which is the car in this video) has a MAF sensor, but this has very little to do with the AC. It is more for the air going into the engine for combustion. There is also a Refrigerant Pressure Sensor for the AC system as well.
Thanks for the reply I missed one question is this suv the A/c compressor clutch driven or not.pardon my question I am not a mechanic trying to learn how things work
@@mgvarghese No problem at all on the questions, and I always like to hear about people learning about their car!
The AC compressor is clutch driven. If you take a look at your AC compressor (it is the front pulley, facing the front of the engine) and you will see the clutch engaging and disengaging when the AC is on.
Thanks for thr video. I will do it my self than paying somebody. My question is. If thr check engine light again. Should i buy a new sensor?
Possibly. If the light is on, there can be a few causes, including a dirty air filter or throttle body. Even a bad wiring harness can cause a code to come up. So if those things check out, then you can look at replacing the MAF
Hey Bro!! Thank you so much for all the videos you posted!! I did all my DIY maintenance for my 2013 JX35.. for the past 3 years now.. it did save me a lot from going to the dealership for service. The CVT fluid, changing engine oil, brake pads and etc.. I learned it all from your videos. Thank you so much.
I have question though, where can I get the repair manual for my 2013 JX35.. Please if you can tell me .. where to get one .. I really appreciate..
by the way my recent service to Infiniti service for Changing my 6 sparks plug it did cost $1,200 US .. it is really a rip-off but I need to change it because it was long overdue and I wasn’t confident to do it yet myself.. I did look your videos but I find it complicated.. hopefully next time.
Please let me know where I can get the repair manual 2013 JX35. Thank you Again - Ernesto- MD, USA
Hey Ernie! Damn, that's awesome. I'm really glad to hear that these videos helped you out. Really appreciate the feedback and support.
Honestly, I don't have a direct answer for the service manual. I actually signed up to an Nissan/Infiniti group a few years ago. It was about $60 for the year, and they offered the full manual, included. However, it seems that website is no longer worked. There are others (like Nicoclub), but I haven't used them.
A potential good option is a website called Alldata. They are around $60 a year(per vehicle) and you get access to a lot of data for the JX35. Here is a link to check them out
www.alldata.com/diy-us/en/diy-repair-information
Whoa...I didn't realize Infiniti was charging that much for plugs...absolutely ridiculous. That's a rip off for sure, but that's dealerships these days. I get it...it's one of the most complicated plug jobs I've ever done. I'm with you..hope you get there one day. It takes time, but at the rate you're going, I think you will.
Thanks again for the support. Keep watching, more videos will come in the future too
@@NexusAuto thank you for reply. I do keep watching your channel. I learned a lot of DIY for my car … my neighbor was even surprised when I’m doing it myself in my garage for my 7 seaters ( 3 kids) JX35 Infiniti.. .. so he asked me where did I learn how to do it .. I said. YOuTube . .( Nexus Auto Channel) .. .. lol.
@@erniep897 honestly, that's great to hear Ernie. Makes making these videos worth it. It's great working on your own car! Thanks bud, made my day 👍🏾
Great video, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Btw, how do you personally find the build quality of JX35? I read they are plagued with problems, especially the transmission.
No problem at all.
Overall build quality is very good. Like any car, there are a few small uncommon issues, but overall, I think they are well built body-wise and the 3.5L is excellent.
That being said, there is 2 very big Achilles heels to this vehicle...the CVT transmission (as you know) and the transfer case, if you have an AWD model (which is most models). These 2 things alone make them problematic vehicles. If the CVT and the transfer case are services very regularly, they seem to last. But they are overlooked often by owners, so it's a gamble purchasing one. So far, my JX has been awesome, personally
@@NexusAuto Thank you for the prompt response, it's greatly appreciated. very good to hear your feedback as I have recently purchased one. There is detailed maintenance history except for the last 30k. Now, I can only hope that CVT and TC are not affected within that timeframe.
Do you by any chance have a mechanic shop in Toronto? I understand you are from Canada :)
@@ilijatodorovic8737 no problem at all! Sounds like your model was well taken care of overall. I would say if there is not TC or CVT service history, arrange for a TC flush and CVt drain and fill.
I am in Toronto! Unfortunately, my shop is closed at this time as I had another job opportunity come up. But if I were still open, I would have invited you to come by
Nice job, Thanks!
No problem
I have a 2018 qx60 that I have a p0101 and c1130 code. Could the p0101 be causing the c1130?
While anything is possible (I've seen very weird things in cars lol), they should not be related. P0101 is an o2 sensor code, and C1130 is an ABS signal code. They are independent systems and shouldn't be connected. So while I can't confirm for sure from here, it does look like you have 2 issues, unfortunately
Do we have to reprogram the Mass air flow sensor in Qx60 2014
You may have to do a throttle body relearn, but not always. I've done a few of these, and never needed to do it...the QX60 will relearn on its own. But if your Mass Air Flow sensor was really bad or failed entirely, you may have to do the relearn
Thanks worked for me.
Awesome news!
So, I put a brand new mass air sensor in, but it still shudders, and going up hill sometimes won't even accelerate, and the check engine light came back on, code is for the mass air flow sensor.
Hmmm. There could be a few causes.
1. The new MAF could be bad. Wouldn't be the first time I've gotten a defective part.
2. The connector could be bad or corroded
3. The wiring itself could be corroded or damaged. It happens
4. You may need to do a relearn/reprogram/reflash. You can try this video, sometimes it will do the trick
th-cam.com/video/2gkjBXIGqbE/w-d-xo.html
Keep in mind, after this, it will change how the vehicle responds...it'll feel different for sure
5. Check your air filter
6. You may need an ecm reprogram from the dealership.
I've seen all these issues come up, and not in this order (check the air filter first, if you haven't already). Hope this helps out
Check engine light just came up what do you think could be a reason QX60 2014
@MABZ0180 unfortunately, there is so many things that could be the cause of a check engine light, I couldn't even tell you. If you can get it scanned and get me the code, I can let you know the potential causes or what to look for
@@NexusAuto well it is because of gas that is what the mechanic said he was like if it comes back again put fuel injector cleaner... what do you think?
@@MABZ0180 I didn't see the code, so I couldn't say what the mechanic diagnosed is accurate. But I can tell you it's possible for bad gas to give a check engine light. So it's definitely a possibility. Many times, if bad gas was the cause, it's a one time thing and it won't come back. Fingers 🤞🏾 for you that it doesn't.
What’s the name of the cleaner you used?
It's actually called Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner, funny enough. Most parts stores should have it (or an alternative). I think Amazon sells it too.
Hello, after cleaning/replacement do you have to get anything electrical done by the dealer? Thanks
Hello. Sometimes you do, depending on how bad the MAF was.
First, you can try this technique in the video
th-cam.com/video/2gkjBXIGqbE/w-d-xo.html
If the car still feels off, you may need to have an Idle Relearn done, which would be done at the dealership with their computer system.
Does the metal part go toward the front or back. Some people say it goes in one way but mine fits in either way. I tried to zoom in but I couldn't really tell. Thanks!
No problem at all. The metal part should be facing forward, especially if you still have the OEM one.
Hello Sir hope you are in good health.I have a infinity jx35 2013.this is the month of inspection.engine light shows four days ago.I did not see that you changing oxygen sensors.if there is any videos notifying me will be greatly appreciated thanks.All videos are great learning a lot
Hello, I'm doing well, and I hope it's the same for you.
Sorry to hear about the check engine engine light...that sucks. Unfortunately, I don't have a video on the O2 sensors at this time.
@@NexusAuto thanks for the very prompt reply ,even though it’s late to say,happy new year healthy and wealthy years ahead
@mgvarghese no problem at all, and thank you! I hope you have a happy, healthy and prosperous new year as well!
If your able to reach and have small screw driver can you just unscrew it without unhooking the whole box?
You sure can. I would only warn to be careful with the screws. They are fairly soft and easy to strip the head. And when putting the screw back it, it's possible to cross-thread. If you're careful, you can completely bypass unhooking the box
@@NexusAuto thanks for confirmation man your videos are a huge help you are appreciated!
sorry for the english, i use a translator
No problem at all. i got everything you said. Thanks for commenting
Hi. Thanks for your videos. I just became the owner of Infiniti jx35. Have you had practice on changing the variator and replacing the AWD clutch?
No problem at all. At this point i haven't needed to change either my variation or awd clutch.
@@NexusAuto, This is amazing! I have 171,000 miles and need to change the rear clutch. They say that even after replacing the clutch, it also needs to be registered in the ecu, since there were different modifications.
@@yegorcheck it is true. You do have to program the serial number to the computer. It's quite the job!
@@NexusAuto, This worries me very much. Do you have information on how to do this?
@@yegorcheck That's understandable for sure. From what I can see, it can only be done with 'CONSULT", which is the interface system Nissan/Infiniti uses in their shops. I don't see any other way around that. Or if there is, i'm not aware of it, unfortunately.
Awesome
Thanks!
IS it a good idea to install a catch can on a direct injection engine as in this 2016 or newer QX60/Pathfinder?
Honestly, I have never installed one on this vehicle, so could not say for sure. Generally speaking, I know many I spoke with say catch cans are a good idea for direct injection engines, but I think there are people with far more experience with them than I have who can answer that for sure. Sorry I couldn't answer.
cleaning this out what does it help with ? do it help with rough idle
Yep, it can potentially help with a rough idle. It can also improve fuel economy and power delivery. Especially if it is really dirty
Have you done the exhaust and flex pipes?
Actually, my flex pipe is broken, and I am going to make a video on it in a few weeks when I get a chance to change it.
Tell us when you have the part #. I have started hearing a low grumble at low speeds and rpm’s. I thought it was transmission but my wife said it sounds like an exhaust leak. A few weeks ago I did the oil and trans fluid and I saw what’s left of a heat shield hanging. I tried to bend it around to get it off but it was still connected. I think I might do it myself but we will see.
@@chrisshore9000 I actually have the part already. I went aftermarket. I can get you the OEM part number if you want. Depends on your year.
For 2014-17, it is 20020-9NB0B. For 2017 and up, it is 200A0-9PJ0A. Not sure what the change in them are, since they look pretty much the same. Maybe something was changed in the catalyst?
It is definitely doable. But some of the bolts will need head to get them moving, and the back ones may need to be cut off (unless you're lucky). Make sure you have all the needed hardware if you do give it a go. If you do, let me know how it goes
@@NexusAuto cool, I was looking aftermarket too. It’s not like it needs to last another 10yrs lol. I don’t think it gets too hard until you get to the cats (last words). Hopefully whatever I do it, a week later I’ll probably get a code for one of the cats lol. I have a 2014 150k miles.
@@chrisshore9000 LOL exactly. I will tell you I have replaced mine once before, but at the time, was unable to make a video. It was from a company named FVP. It lasted all of 2 years and the flex pipe broke. Keep in mind, I am in Canada and have a lot of road salt and stuff, but there is no reason it should have failed so quickly. So I would stay away from them. But generally, there is little problem with the aftermarket units.
HAHA, hopefully you don't get any new codes after changing it. But you know how car repair goes...
Hello I had a question I watched your video on changing and removing the spark plugs and coils and once I got to the throttle body I rounded off the lower right bolt now I have no idea how to get it out so I can continue the process of removing the plugs and coils do you have any suggestions
Damn, sorry to hear that. I have a recommendation, it will need a bit of investment into a new tool (not too expensive though)
There is a tool called a bolt extractor. It comes in a kit. It's around $30 and up. Here is a link to one as a visual reference (not endorsing this brand though)
www.amazon.com/Impact-Remover-Extractor-Storage-Stubborn/dp/B087P5GKFK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=bolt+extractor+set&qid=1643383231&sprefix=bolt+extr%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMTQ3OEtYNVpBWEQ0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTkwNTkwM0tKS0cyNjFDWUxYQSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDYxMDI1M0RPWlVBVjRWVFhZSSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
It's just a socket, so put it on your ratchet and the teeth will grab the rounded head. A few things
1. Make sure to get a replacement bolt first. May have to go to junkyard or dealer. If you go to the junkers, keep in mind a 2013 and up Nissan Pathfinder will have the same bolts
2. Don't use a gun. Go by hand. And use moderate pressure on the bolt to get it to grab the rounded head
3. Those bolts are thin, and should not have a lot of torque to them. Be cautious when loosening the rounded one...you do not want to have it snap inside the throttle body. And don't let this comment scare you, it is just cautionary. Just stick to moderate strength use and it should be fine. It it feels like you need to put a lot of elbow grease into it, something else may be wrong there.
Hope this helps.
Will you be able to do a upper motor mount tutorial?
I can look at doing one in the future, but it will be a while from now. I will see what I can do
Ok cool thanks
Trans Input/Output Vehicle Speed Sensor Do you know the locations of those sensors I’ve been looking into it and can’t find nothing on them I haven’t called the dealership and they was no help 😪
@@orlandomoreno348 I hear you there. Dealers don't want to give that info out.
The speed sensor is located on top of the transmission. You need to remove the air duct and air box to really get to it.
Have you ever made a video on changing or cleaning the VVT solenoids on a JX35? No one seems to be able to tell me where they are located so I can change or clean them and get rid of this P0021 error code!
Unfortunately, I did not make a video or clean the VVT solenoids myself. I did get some info for you.
They are located on the right side of the engine, right at the timing cover. One is fairly easy to get to, the other is much more intensive.
First, I found a video to just give you some orientation on it. It's an older Maxima, and the VVTSs are slightly differing on these cars, but this should give you an idea of where they are.
th-cam.com/video/7iGXyA4BTpY/w-d-xo.html
Here are the instructions on removing them.,
Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve (LH, FRONT)
1. Remove the front air duct.
2. Remove coolant reservoir hose and tank.
3. Remove the washer fluid reservoir filler neck.
4. Disconnect intake valve timing control solenoid valve harness connector.
5. Remove intake valve timing control solenoid valve and O-ring from intake valve timing control cover.
Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve (RH,REAR)
1. Remove the front air duct.
2. Remove the engine room cover.
3. Remove coolant reservoir hose and tank.
4. Remove the washer fluid reservoir filler neck.
5. Remove electric power steering oil pump and bracket.
6. Support engine using suitable tool.
7. Remove upper engine mount and bracket.
8. Disconnect intake valve timing control solenoid valve harness connector.
9. Remove intake valve timing control solenoid valve and O-ring from intake valve timing control cover
Make sure to get new O-rings too. Installation is just the reverse. That rear one looks like it is harder to get to. I haven't done it myself as of now, so I don't know of any workarounds or tips. But hopefully this gives you some direction on it.
@@NexusAuto thank you so much for that.
@@kevynwagner1 No problem at all. Good luck...hope it gets rid of that code for you!
Since I bought this car from one issue to another now the car jerk I have changed plugs nozzles airflow still does the same. I need help
This is a hard thing to say. There is so many things that can cause this, from the engine management system (throttle, ignition, misfire) to the transmission, to even an ABS issue. Without the car here, I cannot diagnose it. If you don't have any check engine light codes or anything to work with, you should get the car diagnosed.
If my mass air sensors need to replace, do I need to clean up something else to before I put new one back in?
No, unless there is an error (like with the throttle body), you should not need to clean anything else.
You may have to do a relearn. Not always, but sometimes. If you put the new MAF sensor in, and the car runs rough or the check engine light comes on, you may need to do that
th-cam.com/video/2gkjBXIGqbE/w-d-xo.html
But I have not had to do this yet
Thanks for the video I always consult your video if I need any help with my qx60 2014. Right now I noticed my steering fluid is low I went to dealership and bought steering fluid. I surprised they gave me transmission fluid instead when I noticed and asked sales person he said there is no difference and I can add atf oil. My question is it safe to mix pink atf oil to my powersteering tank?
Thanks for the support! It's much appreciated!
Hmmm. Your question is a tricky one, and I honestly don't know the answer directly.
I can tell you for regular hydraulic power steering fluid, it used to interchange easily with ATF (particularly Dexron III). That was a very common thing to do was swap Fluids way...did it lots of times on older cars.
But these QX60s use a proprietary 'E-PSF' that is a different viscosity level to regular ATF. EPSF is a thinner fluid (to not put too much pressure on the electric motor).
The problem is there is many types of ATFs out there, with different levels of viscosity. I definitely don't know them all off the top of my head.
So I'm not sure what type of ATF they gave, and what viscosity it is.
I can tell you that even in these cars, as long as the ATF they gave you is not a thicker viscosity to the EPSF, it can take ATF no problem. The issue isn't the type of fluid, but viscosity.
I know it's not a direct answer, but hope it helps.
@@NexusAuto thank you very much. My thought from the dealership they know their car much but it was strange when they have specific oil why they gave atf but thank you very much for your time and quick response.
@Raees Akhtar no problem at all, and I completely agree with you. I would hope the dealership would know their product enough to know if that particular ATF would be good for your vehicle or not. Still weird...it's not like there is a E-PSF shortage or anything. But I would hope they know what they're doing.
Great video. My wife's '17 QX60 is hard starting at times and/or then a rough idle at first and then is fine. Does not do it all the time. No check engine light. Has about 60K miles. I have changed filters so was going to try this. Any other suggestions?
Thanks, much appreciated.
This is definitely worth doing. I would also say to clean the throttle body. It is more in depth for sure, but it is a common issue. I can't say for sure that this will fix your issue, but the MAF and Throttle Body are very common issues.
@@NexusAutowill this also be from radiator cooling fan?(lack of power) Because I did the maf but not throttle yet, its still lacking power but is way better, however Nissan service said I needed a fan. I have one, hopefully I can find the video on that as well. It was my first time working on a vehicle yesterday. And your videos are the greatest I've ever seen. And I've watched a lot. So Thanks a lot!
@brendacalderon9445 unfortunately, I don't have a video on the fan at this point. But it can cause lack of power. You shouldn't notice it at the beginning, but as the QX heats up and has insufficient cooling, it will lose power. Keep an eye on that temp gauge and make sure it doesn't overheat
I really appreciate that feedback too! Thank you for watching, and happy to hear they're helpful!
Great
Thanks
will the engine check light go off after fix?
If a dirty MAF is the cause of the Check Engine Light, yes. But it will take driving for a bit for the car to clear the code itself, and sometimes it still won't until you clear it with a ODBII reader. But all depends on the cause of your code
My check engine light keeps coming on after I change this sensor help!
Unfortunately, I couldn't even provide help without know what code you were getting. You would need to find out the code before I can even begin to give advice
I have the code p2096 in my 2016 Infiniti QX60 could this possibly help me out?
It can, possibly. Unfortunately, there are quite a few things that can cause a P2096, but a dirty MAF could be one of them. Since this is a low-cost repair, I would say to try it. Worse case scenario, it doesn't fix your P2096. (Note, a MAF that has failed can cause this too, so cleaning the MAF may not be the fix, but replacing the MAF may be). Try cleaning it for sure
This is really good and thanks for the detailed instructions. By the way, do you have videos for changing/flushing the qx60 electric power steering fluid? Thanks,
m.th-cam.com/video/e_qf0UJFYSk/w-d-xo.html, find a pathfinder TH-cam video for the issue. Thanks,
No problem at all. Funny enough, a few people have been asking about this recently. I have no plans to change the power steering fluid at this point, but I may make a video since it's requested often. But no plans at this point. If I do, it may be a couple of months from now.
This is great and wait for you videos ASAP then and thanks,
@@NexusAuto where is your physical auto shop in Mississauga? Not sure you have a phone number somewhere for me to book an appointment with you. I am in Toronto, thanks
@@brucebruce5661 hey! A fellow Torontonian! I don't have a physical shop...I work on cars at home. Unfortunately, due to current comments, I haven't been doing much work on cars (which is also why there hasn't been any new recent videos).
Hey nexus great video and much appreciated your work!!! I have a 2015 Infiniti QX60 I changed the MAF but still after running the car for 2 hours the RPM is up and down, also the OBD says P0101 mass air flow sensor circuit and performance also come up with P0171 & P0174 any suggestion what to further do?
The rpm is revving up and down and on idle goes either around 1000 or drop down to 500!!!
Whoa! That's quite a bit of flux in the idle! There is a few things to consider here.
So to confirm, did you clean the MAF, or replace it entirely?
There may be a chance that the throttle needs to be relearned.
Did you clear the codes and they came back? Or did you run the car and see if they will clear on their own?
Did you check the air filter and clean the throttle body?
@@NexusAuto thanks 🙏 for the reply, yes I changed the MAF with a brand new one, I changed the air filter, I dud not clean the throttle just visual inspected that it’s okay 👍
I cleared the codes with an OBD but they are still coming back the same as previous!
How do I reprogram the throttle?
@@mikevladu9420 Ok sounds good. Sounds like you did everything I would have done, but the issue is still persisting, hmm.
First, try the relearn. Here is my video on it
th-cam.com/video/2gkjBXIGqbE/w-d-xo.html
This will change how the car operates. Throttle response and engine behavior will change, and the car will readapt to how yiou drive. Also, the engine does a relearn over time on its own, but this is a quick way to do it.
If this doesn't work, there may be a bigger issue going on. I would say to check the MAF wiring harness to make sure it is secure and it doesn't have any damage or corrosion inside at the connectors.
If you're handy with a multimeter, you can check the voltage at the connector. It should be 5v.
Beyond that, there is possibly something else that that is affecting the MAF circuit, like a vacuum or intake leak, or wiring failure for the MAF sensor
@@NexusAuto thanks for the info will do that and keep you posted with the outcome!!!
👍👍👍
@@NexusAuto I did the relearning throttle procedure (very good procedure easy to follow!!!!👍)
but now change still same codes and check engine light 💡!!!!
I will start by replacing the engine air intake hose between the air filter box and throttle and check all the vacuum hoses too….hope to find the what’s wrong!!
P0174 says too lean so my OBD shows too much air so I hope to get to the roots of the problem!!!
Thank vert much you for your support!!!!
🙏
Is this for codes P0101?
It could be one of the causes for P0101, and the easiest thing to try first. If you try cleaning the MAF and the issue is not resolved, there may be something else going on, like a issue with the MAF, the connection, a power or ground issue. ,
@@NexusAuto ok thanks
Dag I sprayed the connector too! Will it get damaged?
Unless you completely soaked it, it should be fine. Even if you did drench it in cleaner, as long as you leave it to drive, it should theoretically be ok. Hopefully it gave you no issues.
@@NexusAuto nope it worked great!
@@javiersuarez2300 awesome news!
Hi - Thanks for the great videos. I have a 2013 JX 35. I had a P0101 coupled with a P0430. Aftet clearing the codes, the P0430 mysteriously went away while P0101 came back. I replaced the MAF sensor with an OEM one. All codes cleared and I even passed the DMV inspection. However, the P0101 came back 2 weeks after the inspection. I cleared it and it came back (very stubborn sucker :-) Also the P0430 is showing pending. Any insights on what I should do next?
Hmmm. Hard to say without being there. But I can help with some info.
P0430 shows pending means that, since the code was last cleared, the car has detected an error, but only once. The JX is basically waiting to see if the error comes back again.
Common issues I've seen with both these codes aside from the MAF, is a really dirty/obstructed air filter, and also an intake hose or vacuum leak. That is harder to find, unfortunately. But I would start by checking the air filter (if you haven't already) and checking for any air leaks..may sound like a 'hiss' or 'woosh' noise
Are you located in NJ? I would pay for your service?
I already had changed the air filter
@@pappe4300 ok cool on the air filter. One less thing to worry about. Appreciate the offer but I'm in Canada. If I were in NJ, would have told you to come by
@@NexusAuto too bad, you are too far. P0430 went away. I am stuck with the P0101. Definitely not the sensor, nor the air filter. Must be hose issue or reprogramming of ECM that dealer doesn't want to do without another service
Fuck this car but thank you for making easy to follow videos that help me take care of it for now
I hear ya! When they start giving trouble...damn! No problem, happy to hear the videos help out and keep the QX going.
Well I have another Delema on the grand prix I'm sorry this is the only way I know how to get a hold of you but I was doing a simple crank sensor but I might of messed up my keyway on the crankshaft by putting the harmonic balancer on wrong is that possible if so what's my choices that's and is there some way I can chat or something need help thanks
Hey. Sorry, this is the only way to contact me at this point. But I do check daily and answer all questions (but I only check once a day, so keep that in mind)
That sucks with the balancer and the keyway. If the keyway was not lined up with the balancer, you definitely can damage or break it the keyway, and the car may even run a bit rough (vibration). Did you pull off the balancer again and check the key? That would be the first choice. It is also possible that the keyway may still be intact. Check that out first. If it broke, you will need to pull the remaining bit out from the crankshaft. (magnet or plies...it can be tricky). And it would then need to be replaced. But I would say to pull it off first and check the status of your balancer and the keyway
@@NexusAuto I just grinded it down just enough for the balancer to slip around it so it's a tight fit trying to get that keyway out to expose it more you have to take alternator tension pulley water pump and timing chain cover off damn
Thanks for the feedback nexus
@@cheefn4u217 yeah, it's a giant pain to do. So the balancer is fitting ok now? Any noise or vibration? Hopefully it has worked out ok.
@@NexusAuto it's a wrap have to have the woodruff keyway removed now I grinded it down the balancer is just riding over it
What is the normal reading of MAF sensor? I have a P0171 lean code. Live data shows 0.3g/s at idle at 1.8g/s at 3000rpm. It seems too low.
You would be correct, that seems too low. Voltage output should be at 0.9-1.2V at idle, 1.6-1.9V at 2400RPM. Air flow should be 2.0-6.0 g/s at idle, 7.0-20.0 g/s at 2500 RPM.
Good lookin son! How do I reset the check engine light ...sorry Im a newby....
No problem at all! Only ways to reset the check engine light is to either have it cleared with an ODBII reader, or if you drive for a while, the car will eventually clear the code, but that can take some time
@@NexusAuto Thanks bro
I have codes p0101 and p420. Should I try cleaning the sensor before replacing it?
For sure. It's a low cost attempt, and often times, it is just a dirty sensor. If you clean it, clear the code p0101 and drive around. If it does come back, could be the MAF, wiring, or possibly (but rarely) the ECM may need a reprogram (dealer only thing). But p0420 is a different thing altogether. That is something with the o2 sensor or possibly fuel system. MAF may have a little effect on that, but you may a different issue there
@@NexusAuto I am getting p0101 & p0420 on my jx35 with 120k on it. P0420 came and went on its own 2x. I used Catclean each time thinking it was just getting dirty. Now I got both of these codes together today and my car is idling really rough, to the point I thought it was going to shut off and while trying to make it home it was like it slipped its gear and then picked it up again a few times.
@@stephanieworthington8778 Hi. This is a tricky one, as there are so many variables here.
First thing is, these codes could equally be related to each other, or they could be 2 separate issues within the same system. So really, the best thing to do is to test the system or get it tested. But i'll definitely give a few things to look at.
You may have done this already, but have you checked your air filter? If it is REALLY clogged, it can throw both of these codes. It's worth looking at this first, since it costs nothing and it may contribute to the issue for sure.
Next up, listen around the intake system for any high pitch whistles, or suction noises. Check for any breaks or cracks. There may be a leak in the intake system...this would cause both codes to come up.
Next, I would have said to clean the MAF, but you already indicated doing that. So really, this is where a scan tool needs to be hooked up to the car and MAF functionality, O2 functionality, fuel/spark/timing can be checked, to see which areas are out of spec.
The problem is, especially with P0420, everything from a bad o2 sensor, catalytic converter, spark plug(s), injector(s), timing, etc can cause it. And it would not make sense to start changing parts. So scanning is the next best bet.
My *guess* is the MAF is not reading properly at all and should be replaced, but testing should confirm this first.
Hope this helps.
@@NexusAuto Thank you so much for your reply. I have my own OBD2 and app to read. Not a Techs version, but I can look at the systems when it's running. Since the first 2 codes popping up I parked it until I could take a look. Yesterday I had to move it in my driveway and it popped all new codes and acted like it was going to shut off & did not want to go forward at first. I saved the scans to show the shop. They are P0171, P0174, P0101 P0868. No P0420, but I had cleared that after the Catclean and only the P0101 wouldn't clear. After driving it 30mins, I filled up, drove home and parked.
It's a mess...I will check the air filter, clean MAF & Throttle body to see if it helps. At this point I don't believe I could even drive it to a shop. Just weird that it all started Fri afternoon when I started it to leave work. Ran great before that, except the P0420 popping 2x over last 6mo. Stayed on few days and would go off on its own. Thus me trying the Catclean each time incase it was getting dirty.
@@stephanieworthington8778 that's awesome! I always love hearing of people taking their vehicle into their own hands, to any degree. Happy to hear you are on top of these things.
No problem at all on the response. Definitely check out those few things first (air filter, MAF clean, etc).
The P0868 is a different thing altogether. That has to do with the transmission...which may explain the JX not wanting to move forward. This is not normally a good side for the transmission, as much as I hate to say it. I would avoid driving the car until this is looked into, as this can lead to the CVT overheating. But your slipping issues are likely due to this.
The P0171 and P0174 are highly likely to be related to P0101. It definitely further indicates either a major intake leak somewhere, or a failed MAF sensor. Cleaning, as you mentioned before, is definitely worth a try again, but it may need to be replaced. There can be other causes too, as I mentioned before, but all 4 codes, including the previous P0420, all have intake leaks or MAF as related issues. So I would definitely start there.