Every time I see one of your smoke grenades i wish we had them in Iraq. We didn't get that type of coverage with three grenades. Even the wp smoke grenades on the Bradley didn't work as well as yours. Great stuff. Thanks for sharing. Keep up the great work
The second or third worst part is those smokes definitely cost two or three orders of magnitude more. I get the overhead for the lawyers signing the contracts, inventorying, certifications and testing, etc, but these work way too well for how cheap they are.
@Kori-ko so they save you $20-30 and get 5 times the yield. That's like saving $100.00 for each pin you pull. Now if i could just find a way to add cs powder.
From what i understand, its the dryness of air in iraq that degrades the smoke. It "dries" up... we brought the issue to our higher ups but we all know how that works when their biggest worry is going to the PX... but yeah, we were told that big military told them its environmental conditions degrading smoke performance and the carrier agent... these are the same ones who said the gas mask filters are only good for 30 days after opening the can, but when no new filters arrived, they are now good for 90. Sorry about the ranting, these were the funnest days of my life. Lol
His smoke grenades are indeed amazing. But, the use-case is private civillians that "just want any damn smoke grenade." Because in the US, they are "legal" but the ATF has admimistratively ended sales anyway. (Ostensibly a make-work bureaucratic exercise, justified by concerns smoke fuses will be converted to illegal Destructive Device use.) And for those in other countries where smoke grenades are also legal, but have or had zero retail access to them at all. For milspec smoke grenades, there IS some practical engineering & standardization as to why US issue smoke/signal grenades "are what they are." Despite warfare being "inherently unsafe" by design, there are safety standards for accidental or unintended ignition during storage & transport. Or even in combat if hit by enemy ordnance, or exposed to heat or fire. There's also relatively strict weight requirements, for at least an attempt at managing combat load & weight. And strict reliability requirements so it's 99.9% certain to work. Also, the tactical purpose of a military smoke grenade can vary besides screening & concealment from enemy observation & fire. The situation where you obviously want as much density and volume of smoke as possible. However, milspec smoke is also often used as markers for air support, or other heavier weapons, or for marking LZ extraction/medivac for choppers. And color/dye smoke generally requires lower temperature compositions or retardant so the dye molecules aren't destroyed. And, depending on the smoke chemistry and particle size, there's compositions that are visible light opaque, but are still transparent to deep long-wave IR/FLIR. And ones that are opaque to both visible & thermal/IR. And there's probably even more considerations, like demanding milspec grenades don't have an unacceptable probability of setting unwanted structure fires or wildfires. And while the smoke grenades with deliberate IR/Thermal properties might be special issue, they exist, and fitting the needed chemistry & composition into all the other requirements only gets you that "inferior" smoke volume. And probably the DOD demands that milspec smoke do all this, possibly more, after sitting in storage for 20 years, then getting a few months of abuse in the field hung on infantry LBE, and still have that 99.9% success rate. The military is indeed slow, stodgy, & bureaucratic, but a lot of equipment "is how it is" because of very real technical, practical, & logistics reasons too. We have it somewhat simpler. We just want a goddamn smoke grenade that "works" and has a pull-ring/pin safety and spoon/mousetrap ignition & delay. That's a much lower bar to meet than making thousands, storing them for a decade, abusing, hitting, & shaking, getting rained on, then working with 99.9% reliability.
This is actually game changing. Smoke devices are basically an essential part of break contact. This is one of the first videos I've seen of a professional grade DIY option. Stellar.
That was quite the time investment! Thanks for making that for us and sharing your craft with us. That end scene with the smoky forest gave me the Willy’s, I thought a slasher was gonna pop out any second.
Thank YOU..... For your tireless work and information and most importantly the videos.... WELL DONE.. again... Lots of folks will be better off than before.. see ya.
Best formula hands down! Great work! Lots of trial and error im sure! Btw I picked up the pull string igniter kit! I giggled while reading the instructions lol. I can't wait to try them out. 😃
I only recently stumbled across your Channel and already I'm a huge fan. It's like finding family you didn't know you had LOL. Excellent stuff be had here!
@@Z-Ack do you know how I know you have never done that? Because you said that silliness. I’ve tried to even modify the (centerfire) m228 striker to a rimfire striker-even with that mod the spring isn’t strong enough to reliably ignite. To anyone else who is using ramsets as primers for any device: The rounds have to be cut and drained of powder charge leaving the green rimfire primer only in the casing: they will ignite visco fuse.
That could also be good for mountainous terrain bikers & hikers, hopefully contact search and rescue, smoke grenade will alert the chopper for certain if they look in the proper direction, decently a good asset for survival gear bag.
I have no intention of making HC smoke grenades for... obvious reasons, but I do have a question about the fuze you used. I've seen some things from a few years back saying they are illegal to rearm because they use explosive compounds, some that say they are legal as long as you dont use a certain compound, and they aren't legal because the fuse is located internally unlike in smoke bombs (from an ATF release). Oh, and even more confusingly, someone said that they are not legal if the primer needs to be forced in and thereby "loaded" into the fuze body. I can't find any updated official documentation the legality of rearming inert fuses or creating similar ones from scratch (though designed specifically for smoke grenades). You seem knowledgeable on this subject so i was hoping you could point me to a source or at least give me a nudge in the right direction? Your channel is a hidden gem and this video was great as usual.
This is some fun science stuff, looks cool. Do you need a license to do this and if so how hard is that to do for hobby use like paint ball or airsoft?
SWEET! I'm super interested in whatever less toxic epoxy based composition you come up with for smoke. Only question I have, basically the only thing you didn't cover.. Where would one source those mousetrap m204 looking spring fuses?
@@99cobra2881 for the real deal, I can only find super expensive inert versions from suppliers in the states which do not ship outside of the states. The next best thing, airsoft versions.
You can VERY easily reload a original fuse assembly using 2 drill bits, a punch, drill and a 380 blank. and still use the triple protective firework fuse.. And if you have your smoke come out the bottom of the canister you can probably reuse the assembly. I'll try to get a video posted this weekend.
I would suggest using a #11 Xacto blade that has been burnished with an agate burnisher, or a medical scalpel blade, it might make cutting down the fuse a little easier.
Ive been developing some pin fired variety using 209's. My version has outside threads. I use half inch pvc as the joints. I've been toying with a delay mix used in rocketry. Think of any chemistry that will allow you to launch something but then thin by doubling weight with baking soda. It makes a super effective slow burn that is quite effective and consistent. For charge im using Al n Mg mixes with KN and KPc. I'm able to whip them out quickly with lengths of pvc and cap tapped into my adapter. I honestly need to work out a weaker primer. I overpressure without an oversized piece of pvc. I can corr which gives void space but also gives me surface area for ignition. The 209 primer cones out at like 11,000 psi. A dang 223 comes out at like 45,000 psi 😆. Ive been focused on developing the challe gkng parts that is rhe least of my concern. Check out slowburn mixes. In your case itll work very well i think.
That’s so funny I was literally just researching rocket delay formulas like 2 minutes before seeing this. Have you tried small pistol primers? Those work extremely well. I’ve been testing Scott Pace’s XM18 using them.
A mesh or drilled pipe inlay might help the the chunks of core getting blown out. Pre-sealing the ignition exchange holes with with a sympathetic igniter compound like sparklers and then using a sealant to maintain the integrity of the pipe during storage until use. You would probably have to calibrate the hole size for optimal output and provide burst disc for the container to reduce the risk it goes explosive. Maybe a test rig that doesn't involve holding the thing with the term 'grenade' in its name? A quick test might just be a rolled steel mesh with fairly large holes, maybe 1 cm. Coiled around and inserted by coiling inside tube of the same diameter then using a dowel to push the coil mesh out, while simultaneously removing the tube. Similar to locksmith using a follower to remove a lock core.
Never underestimate the value of a smoke grenade in a gunfight , when you pinned down just throw a smoke grenade and disappear.When I was in a war situation we used this system all the time on tanks etc...😊
You can just use a .22 blank with the powder dumped out for the primer instead of messing with chemicals. Mouse traps with a 1/4" hole drilled in it for a nail gun blank and a bent paperclip through the trigger mechanism is a dead simple tripwire alarm design from way back.
I’m glad you brought this up because it would be so much easier if it worked (reliably). This is an example of something that works academically/theoretically but the execution is actually extremely difficult .ive tried repeatedly, without consistent success. Those blanks come in both 0.22 and 0.27 and are all rim fire. I’ve modified The center-fire striker on an m228 fuze assembly to a rim fire striker via metal grinding disk, and found that the spring force wasn’t strong enough to actuate the 22 primer. I’m going to attempt to shift the center-fire striker forward by drilling out the rivit holding the striker to the lever arm and shifting it forward a few millimeters so that the intact striker point lands on the rim. (Securing with epoxy) Because the scroll-like shape of that centerfire Striker is important for the transfer of that force. I’ll update, so subscribe if you’re not. *also, the transfer of the ignition gases to the time fuse is extremely aggressive and usually blasts the time fuse to kingdom come (and yes, I dumped out the powder lol) it does work with visco fuse however.
Instead of making your own primary ignition compound, have you ever tried to glue a 209 shotgun primer into the head and glue the time fuze against the primer?
Hey I was wonder what the laws are regarding the 1/4" fuzes and if theyre exempt from FEP/FEL requirements due to being articles pyrotechnic. Cant seem to find a good answer on forums
These inch ratios are just insanity compared with metric 😂 Even I, as someone from the UK, can tell how vastly superior that smoke nade is, insane coverage.
can you do a more detailed video using west systems epoxy. Also a sourcing guide of where you get all your chemicals. I cannot find a supplier of PBAN Polymer, What west systems epoxy are you using? like I said a sourcing guide would be amazing to have.
Bro got the armstrong mixture mixed with ground glass in a glass jar with a metal lid that makes a scratchy sound when closing. A literal fragmentation grenade. It made me feel very uneasy when you screwed the lid back on.
It’s not Armstrong’s, that would be literal suicide…. Uggggh it makes me cringe just thinking of that. It’s 1:1:1 red p:sulfur:ground glass. There is no oxidizer. The ignition works based on the sensitive relationship between red p in the striker comp and the potassium chlorate in the ignition comp.the two stay separated until the striker pin hits them
I would imagine with the epoxy binder it should have enough structure without the case, since it’s not under pressure when the lid pops off. Maybe put sheet steel on the bottom (can lid) so the smoke will still be directed out the top.
Yes indeed and pelletized (academically speaking), however, every attempt I’ve made with executing that has blown apart container. I bet if it were compressed using nc as a binder that would be great, however, it’s so volatile that I bet I couldn’t mix it fast enough, if anyone has any experience feel free to chime in
@InventionIncarnate If polarity isn't a huge deal you can mix it with water. If it is, a lower vapor pressure solvent like ethanol, MEK, AcCN, THF, toluene, and several more. You can cool it and the mix(if you can) down in the fridge. Mixing it in a sealed container could help.
That's a free Company-specific cert so you can purchase their products. I'll literally do it online now... Start time: 516pm End Time: 553pm Congratulations! "You have passed the official IWA PPC Test! Your access code is: E00F962F-x Your official PPC card should arrive via email soon!" **Take screenshots of each page of the online presentation to refer to when you take the 15question test at the end. You can do it too!
@@InventionIncarnate fuck it I’m sold. My wife is crunchy so I’ll probably have to wait for the non-toxic mix to come out, but this stuff is super fascinating.
Ah yes. The 5am rabbit hole and ending up on 50 international lists because I'm googling how to make my own time fuse in a country where we don't even have simple roman candles available legally. Do I care? Not at all.
It is best practice to cut fuses with a single-edged blade. Because of the rare occurrence that a scissor’s blades create friction that would ignite the fuse. Ironically, I’d get a lot more ___ from people if I used scissors
OK!! Unfortunately I have NO video editor software, AND what I used to use was a TH-cam editor which I cannot find anywhere, I am forced to show my reloading technique as a mix of 16 separate shorts and videos but they are all listed in order if you go to my page. I tried using a free editor but it took my portrait videos and cropped them down so much that you couldn't see what I was doing. I apologize for it being SO difficult to watch.
Just watched, awesome. 2 questions: 1) Are you using a potassium nitrate-based composition? Because that canister on the 16th video was A HOT POTATO 2)where is the smoke venting on the m-18 body, or is it venting out the fuse?
Every time I see one of your smoke grenades i wish we had them in Iraq. We didn't get that type of coverage with three grenades. Even the wp smoke grenades on the Bradley didn't work as well as yours. Great stuff. Thanks for sharing. Keep up the great work
The second or third worst part is those smokes definitely cost two or three orders of magnitude more. I get the overhead for the lawyers signing the contracts, inventorying, certifications and testing, etc, but these work way too well for how cheap they are.
@Kori-ko so they save you $20-30 and get 5 times the yield. That's like saving $100.00 for each pin you pull. Now if i could just find a way to add cs powder.
From what i understand, its the dryness of air in iraq that degrades the smoke. It "dries" up... we brought the issue to our higher ups but we all know how that works when their biggest worry is going to the PX... but yeah, we were told that big military told them its environmental conditions degrading smoke performance and the carrier agent... these are the same ones who said the gas mask filters are only good for 30 days after opening the can, but when no new filters arrived, they are now good for 90. Sorry about the ranting, these were the funnest days of my life. Lol
His smoke grenades are indeed amazing. But, the use-case is private civillians that "just want any damn smoke grenade." Because in the US, they are "legal" but the ATF has admimistratively ended sales anyway. (Ostensibly a make-work bureaucratic exercise, justified by concerns smoke fuses will be converted to illegal Destructive Device use.) And for those in other countries where smoke grenades are also legal, but have or had zero retail access to them at all.
For milspec smoke grenades, there IS some practical engineering & standardization as to why US issue smoke/signal grenades "are what they are."
Despite warfare being "inherently unsafe" by design, there are safety standards for accidental or unintended ignition during storage & transport. Or even in combat if hit by enemy ordnance, or exposed to heat or fire.
There's also relatively strict weight requirements, for at least an attempt at managing combat load & weight. And strict reliability requirements so it's 99.9% certain to work.
Also, the tactical purpose of a military smoke grenade can vary besides screening & concealment from enemy observation & fire. The situation where you obviously want as much density and volume of smoke as possible.
However, milspec smoke is also often used as markers for air support, or other heavier weapons, or for marking LZ extraction/medivac for choppers. And color/dye smoke generally requires lower temperature compositions or retardant so the dye molecules aren't destroyed.
And, depending on the smoke chemistry and particle size, there's compositions that are visible light opaque, but are still transparent to deep long-wave IR/FLIR. And ones that are opaque to both visible & thermal/IR.
And there's probably even more considerations, like demanding milspec grenades don't have an unacceptable probability of setting unwanted structure fires or wildfires.
And while the smoke grenades with deliberate IR/Thermal properties might be special issue, they exist, and fitting the needed chemistry & composition into all the other requirements only gets you that "inferior" smoke volume.
And probably the DOD demands that milspec smoke do all this, possibly more, after sitting in storage for 20 years, then getting a few months of abuse in the field hung on infantry LBE, and still have that 99.9% success rate.
The military is indeed slow, stodgy, & bureaucratic, but a lot of equipment "is how it is" because of very real technical, practical, & logistics reasons too.
We have it somewhat simpler. We just want a goddamn smoke grenade that "works" and has a pull-ring/pin safety and spoon/mousetrap ignition & delay. That's a much lower bar to meet than making thousands, storing them for a decade, abusing, hitting, & shaking, getting rained on, then working with 99.9% reliability.
@vegan-cannibal714 you can buy oc in it's food grade variant and mix it in it works not as well as cs but definitely makes you rethink your choice
This is actually game changing. Smoke devices are basically an essential part of break contact. This is one of the first videos I've seen of a professional grade DIY option. Stellar.
Thank you! The gatekeeping of information, (and multitudes of garbage content put out by other creators) is what started this endeavor
@@InventionIncarnate
Great stuff!
@@scytoxil5990 yep, other than the fact that they cause cancer XD
I always enjoy watching these and marking how quickly they transition from "I can make/buy that" to "I cannot (legally) make/buy that".
Yes, you can...
it seems like ur single handedly making bigger n better moves in the smoke nade world than any company. man i love this
@@Tee-ina-Skee-Mask he simply doesn't follow federal rule/ reg that's why his are better, the tech exist, just isn't publicly available
TH-cam recommendations came in clutch by putting this channel in my feed. You got yourself a subscriber. Good job bro.
Thank you for putting in the time and effort to make these videos! I enjoy them very much.
Between dissing round bottom sticks and praising bicarbonate fluffers, I was hearing much different than what was published.
Can’t believe I’m now just find this channel, solid content
That was quite the time investment! Thanks for making that for us and sharing your craft with us. That end scene with the smoky forest gave me the Willy’s, I thought a slasher was gonna pop out any second.
I know! It was so long I couldn’t even export it at 60fps. Took forever to edit and it’s a huge commitment to watch.
Thank YOU..... For your tireless work and information and most importantly the videos.... WELL DONE.. again... Lots of folks will be better off than before.. see ya.
Best formula hands down! Great work! Lots of trial and error im sure! Btw I picked up the pull string igniter kit! I giggled while reading the instructions lol. I can't wait to try them out. 😃
I only recently stumbled across your Channel and already I'm a huge fan. It's like finding family you didn't know you had LOL. Excellent stuff be had here!
BIG PROPS ON YOUR SMOKE THAT STUFF IS THICK!!! LOVE YOUE WORK! WE WANT MORE!
The blanks for the ramset you get at home stores works just as good. Rimfire 22 caliber blank cartridges.. cheap too..
@@Z-Ack do you know how I know you have never done that? Because you said that silliness.
I’ve tried to even modify the (centerfire) m228 striker to a rimfire striker-even with that mod the spring isn’t strong enough to reliably ignite.
To anyone else who is using ramsets as primers for any device: The rounds have to be cut and drained of powder charge leaving the green rimfire primer only in the casing: they will ignite visco fuse.
That could also be good for mountainous terrain bikers & hikers, hopefully contact search and rescue, smoke grenade will alert the chopper for certain if they look in the proper direction, decently a good asset for survival gear bag.
Great stuff!
Any tips or guidance on how to make the mousetrap igniting component that goes on top? (spoon, fulcrum, spring, pin, etc.?)
Potassium chlorate shouldn’t be too hygroscopic, but NaCLO3 definitely is.
I have no intention of making HC smoke grenades for... obvious reasons, but I do have a question about the fuze you used. I've seen some things from a few years back saying they are illegal to rearm because they use explosive compounds, some that say they are legal as long as you dont use a certain compound, and they aren't legal because the fuse is located internally unlike in smoke bombs (from an ATF release). Oh, and even more confusingly, someone said that they are not legal if the primer needs to be forced in and thereby "loaded" into the fuze body. I can't find any updated official documentation the legality of rearming inert fuses or creating similar ones from scratch (though designed specifically for smoke grenades). You seem knowledgeable on this subject so i was hoping you could point me to a source or at least give me a nudge in the right direction? Your channel is a hidden gem and this video was great as usual.
The beginning looked like some scene from a horror or war film - looked better than some Hollywood films lol
Serene to Silent Hill in no time flat! Great job!
Been waiting for this vid.. your killing it bro, awesome content.
Thank you for sharing your creativity with us!
Thank you for your time and effort that is put into making this content!
This is some fun science stuff, looks cool. Do you need a license to do this and if so how hard is that to do for hobby use like paint ball or airsoft?
I'm curious as well. This looks fun as long as proper procedure and safety are prioritized. 🎉
Nice work man! Please keep the content coming!
Perfect for the 4th of July
SWEET! I'm super interested in whatever less toxic epoxy based composition you come up with for smoke. Only question I have, basically the only thing you didn't cover.. Where would one source those mousetrap m204 looking spring fuses?
Im scrolling the comments trying to figure that out myself?
@@99cobra2881same
@@99cobra2881 for the real deal, I can only find super expensive inert versions from suppliers in the states which do not ship outside of the states. The next best thing, airsoft versions.
You can VERY easily reload a original fuse assembly using 2 drill bits, a punch, drill and a 380 blank. and still use the triple protective firework fuse..
And if you have your smoke come out the bottom of the canister you can probably reuse the assembly.
I'll try to get a video posted this weekend.
That would be awesome
Works better than the saltpeter and sugar ones we use to make as kids! Can you Add Color to the smoke?
I would suggest using a #11 Xacto blade that has been burnished with an agate burnisher, or a medical scalpel blade, it might make cutting down the fuse a little easier.
Keep these vids coming man!!!
around the 34 minute mark all of a sudden i got this overwhelming thirst sensation
Ive been developing some pin fired variety using 209's. My version has outside threads. I use half inch pvc as the joints. I've been toying with a delay mix used in rocketry. Think of any chemistry that will allow you to launch something but then thin by doubling weight with baking soda. It makes a super effective slow burn that is quite effective and consistent. For charge im using Al n Mg mixes with KN and KPc. I'm able to whip them out quickly with lengths of pvc and cap tapped into my adapter. I honestly need to work out a weaker primer. I overpressure without an oversized piece of pvc. I can corr which gives void space but also gives me surface area for ignition. The 209 primer cones out at like 11,000 psi. A dang 223 comes out at like 45,000 psi 😆. Ive been focused on developing the challe gkng parts that is rhe least of my concern. Check out slowburn mixes. In your case itll work very well i think.
With the slow burn you just press it and create cells. If you need rapid ignition core your second cell with loose flash.
That’s so funny I was literally just researching rocket delay formulas like 2 minutes before seeing this. Have you tried small pistol primers? Those work extremely well. I’ve been testing Scott Pace’s XM18 using them.
awesome smoke device, really nice smoke
A mesh or drilled pipe inlay might help the the chunks of core getting blown out. Pre-sealing the ignition exchange holes with with a sympathetic igniter compound like sparklers and then using a sealant to maintain the integrity of the pipe during storage until use. You would probably have to calibrate the hole size for optimal output and provide burst disc for the container to reduce the risk it goes explosive. Maybe a test rig that doesn't involve holding the thing with the term 'grenade' in its name? A quick test might just be a rolled steel mesh with fairly large holes, maybe 1 cm. Coiled around and inserted by coiling inside tube of the same diameter then using a dowel to push the coil mesh out, while simultaneously removing the tube. Similar to locksmith using a follower to remove a lock core.
Never underestimate the value of a smoke grenade in a gunfight , when you pinned down just throw a smoke grenade and disappear.When I was in a war situation we used this system all the time on tanks etc...😊
You can just use a .22 blank with the powder dumped out for the primer instead of messing with chemicals. Mouse traps with a 1/4" hole drilled in it for a nail gun blank and a bent paperclip through the trigger mechanism is a dead simple tripwire alarm design from way back.
I’m glad you brought this up because it would be so much easier if it worked (reliably).
This is an example of something that works academically/theoretically but the execution is actually extremely difficult
.ive tried repeatedly, without consistent success. Those blanks come in both 0.22 and 0.27 and are all rim fire. I’ve modified The center-fire striker on an m228 fuze assembly to a rim fire striker via metal grinding disk, and found that the spring force wasn’t strong enough to actuate the 22 primer. I’m going to attempt to shift the center-fire striker forward by drilling out the rivit holding the striker to the lever arm and shifting it forward a few millimeters so that the intact striker point lands on the rim. (Securing with epoxy) Because the scroll-like shape of that centerfire Striker is important for the transfer of that force. I’ll update, so subscribe if you’re not.
*also, the transfer of the ignition gases to the time fuse is extremely aggressive and usually blasts the time fuse to kingdom come (and yes, I dumped out the powder lol) it does work with visco fuse however.
Instead of making your own primary ignition compound, have you ever tried to glue a 209 shotgun primer into the head and glue the time fuze against the primer?
That's insanely good
Great work!! Very cool design!
Civilian militias seem to have outpreforming miltiary tech all round lmao, big brother better not mess with us 😂
Awesome your progress is impressive
“Well, that escalated quickly.” Lol
Awesome video! The only thing that I did not see was the application of the spoon kit. How to attach it to the top of the tiki torch lid.
Find a nut that fits the threading on the mousetrap assembly, jb weld nut to top of tiki lid. Can’t remember the threading but I think the nut is 5/8
A perforated metal tube or a rolled screen should stop the chunks from blowing out if u want to use 3/4 opening
This video is the result of this comment: th-cam.com/video/80cKOHF5PtU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=8EQ76PjBib1xQxc3
Hey I was wonder what the laws are regarding the 1/4" fuzes and if theyre exempt from FEP/FEL requirements due to being articles pyrotechnic. Cant seem to find a good answer on forums
@@tmm6106 no license required sir
Sooo, quick question. How would someone go about making those different colors? i.e. have one red, have one blue, etc.
These inch ratios are just insanity compared with metric 😂
Even I, as someone from the UK, can tell how vastly superior that smoke nade is, insane coverage.
@@Rosskles it’s the worst thing bout ‘merica
@@InventionIncarnate I edited my comment because I'm new to the channel, find it very interesting and thought it came over a bit troll-ey 👍😁
can you do a more detailed video using west systems epoxy. Also a sourcing guide of where you get all your chemicals. I cannot find a supplier of PBAN Polymer, What west systems epoxy are you using? like I said a sourcing guide would be amazing to have.
Question, could you perhaps just use a large rifle or shotgun primer to set off the initial fuse?
Good lord man. Impressive.
How does HC compare to the Soviet anthracene based composition?
Would it be possible to create a liquid reactive smoke, possibly chemical reaction aiming towards a smoke that will not start fires on the woods?
I need this for getting rid of my ground squirrels!
Does this also contain IR/Thermal compounds, or is it purely visual?
Man! Great question, it will not mask either, academically speaking, but I’m going to test thermal with my flir camera. Standby for a video.
Damn these are awesome way better than mil grade! What would you say it cost to make each one?
For the primer, could you just use a percussion cap? Like the ones used for black powder
Bro got the armstrong mixture mixed with ground glass in a glass jar with a metal lid that makes a scratchy sound when closing.
A literal fragmentation grenade.
It made me feel very uneasy when you screwed the lid back on.
It’s not Armstrong’s, that would be literal suicide…. Uggggh it makes me cringe just thinking of that.
It’s 1:1:1 red p:sulfur:ground glass. There is no oxidizer. The ignition works based on the sensitive relationship between red p in the striker comp and the potassium chlorate in the ignition comp.the two stay separated until the striker pin hits them
@@InventionIncarnate
Ah ok hahahah
Keep up the good work bother appreciate ur knowledge 💯💪
These are great, love your stuff. Just wondering where you get your phosphorus because it is sort of a pain to get.
Email me at inventionincarnate@gmail.com
Question, if we aren't worried about reuseable delivery devices, could one theoretically 3d print one?
Indubitably
@@InventionIncarnate even with how hot it burns? You wouldn't worry about it just melting away and not giving it enough structure?
Best answer @@InventionIncarnate
I would imagine with the epoxy binder it should have enough structure without the case, since it’s not under pressure when the lid pops off. Maybe put sheet steel on the bottom (can lid) so the smoke will still be directed out the top.
Question.
Can sulfur be added to the mix? As an irritant.
Fun stuff :) minus the hazardous smoke part lol
Got a question. Couldn't you use the tpa mix with NC lacquer?
Yes indeed and pelletized (academically speaking), however, every attempt I’ve made with executing that has blown apart container. I bet if it were compressed using nc as a binder that would be great, however, it’s so volatile that I bet I couldn’t mix it fast enough, if anyone has any experience feel free to chime in
@InventionIncarnate
If polarity isn't a huge deal you can mix it with water. If it is, a lower vapor pressure solvent like ethanol, MEK, AcCN, THF, toluene, and several more.
You can cool it and the mix(if you can) down in the fridge. Mixing it in a sealed container could help.
you should be able to use a pistol primer without having to do all that right? and it is still legal.
This would be great for the 4th
When will this be mass produced?
"Yes it's illegal, more importantly it's dangerous"
amen
Thats a really good smoke grenade
Make a video about "Gunpowder components".
How make the mouse trap?
VERY impressive smoke!!!!!!!!
Where do you get PBAN? do you make it yourself?
Hey, 1:02 is your channel banner, isn't it?
so if the zinc oxide is a colorant, could i replace it one for one with any other smoke dye?
Any idea if the fuses can ignite thermite? That's a pretty hard compound to ignite and oftentimes takes something special.
Now that is a smoke bomb
How do you make the actual fuse assemblies, are they retrofitted inert M201A1 fuses?
Call him Peter North cuz homie SHOOTIN ROPES!!
Omfg lol
Where can you buy those mouse trap igniters?
Yo, this kinda glows. If it’s legal to make these, then why can’t I buy an IWA M14 without getting a PPC?
That's a free Company-specific cert so you can purchase their products. I'll literally do it online now...
Start time: 516pm
End Time: 553pm
Congratulations!
"You have passed the official IWA PPC Test! Your access code is: E00F962F-x
Your official PPC card should arrive via email soon!"
**Take screenshots of each page of the online presentation to refer to when you take the 15question test at the end.
You can do it too!
@@InventionIncarnate fuck it I’m sold. My wife is crunchy so I’ll probably have to wait for the non-toxic mix to come out, but this stuff is super fascinating.
Crazy amount of smoke
Ah yes. The 5am rabbit hole and ending up on 50 international lists because I'm googling how to make my own time fuse in a country where we don't even have simple roman candles available legally.
Do I care? Not at all.
Where does one get the spoon attachment with pull pin on top of the smoker?
You had tin snips, wire cutters, almost certain you have a pair of scissors but no we must use a box cutter. Why make life easy? XD love the video tho
It is best practice to cut fuses with a single-edged blade. Because of the rare occurrence that a scissor’s blades create friction that would ignite the fuse. Ironically, I’d get a lot more ___ from people if I used scissors
@InventionIncarnate makes sense, just trying look out for your fingers
OK!! Unfortunately I have NO video editor software, AND what I used to use was a TH-cam editor which I cannot find anywhere, I am forced to show my reloading technique as a mix of 16 separate shorts and videos but they are all listed in order if you go to my page.
I tried using a free editor but it took my portrait videos and cropped them down so much that you couldn't see what I was doing.
I apologize for it being SO difficult to watch.
You can put them in a playlist. I’ll check them out.
@@InventionIncarnate ok let me try that.
@@InventionIncarnate OK I got them in order in a playlist.
@@remotecamper9113 The playlist is posted on his channel now
Just watched, awesome.
2 questions:
1) Are you using a potassium nitrate-based composition? Because that canister on the 16th video was A HOT POTATO
2)where is the smoke venting on the m-18 body, or is it venting out the fuse?
Love to know what vaping fluid you use 😅
BAHAHA! I just made hats that say “chuckin’ clouds”
@@InventionIncarnate 😂😂😂
Where do you get the M10A2 grenade Fuse housing?
Imagine something pops off and the civs have better smoke than the gov, wild.
Where to buy the time fuse ???
Where can you get that smoke canister mouse trap thing?
Nice!
is there a website you use to source the chemicals?
Check my website for source list
Is there any way you could sell these or no? I’m waaaay to lazy to make them myself
Sadly I cannot…those pesky laws
@@InventionIncarnate i understand. Please keep up the good work. Science is important
Man that’s cool
Can you mix something in these to kill mosquitoes???
th-cam.com/video/JuJOSXcXpVA/w-d-xo.html. Subscribe!
15/64 😂 fucking America.. why lol. I love it here but what in the whole actual fuck is that 😂
Omg, I edited that out of the video, but seriously, it’s ridiculous
@@InventionIncarnate i was recently working on something that called for a 33/64 bit and it made me rage a little 😆
How many does your kit make
You could just use a shotgun primer in the ring instead of the comp material
Thats what im talking about!
Please try to make a smoke grenade that does not use a incendiary ignition
Not to sure if i can get that cord in the uk, but could get portfire sticks?
Here’s another alternative technique (though it would require some modification): th-cam.com/video/m6AMkFy-0Qo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5gyzPqgV29jVXhjj
@@InventionIncarnate the black match right?