What do you think the problem with this bike is? Please SUBSCRIBE and LIKE the video if you enjoyed! It really helps me out a lot! Check out my Instagram: 2_vintage_ Thank you for all the support!
If you use a heat gun and put it on one end of the pipe it cleans out all the carbon build up and extra fuel that’s in it. Are you can use a torch and an air compressor, I used a heat gun and it completely cleaned my pipe and exhaust
Joe I don’t think you’re getting enough gas I think all your problem is in the carburetor, I would swap out from one of the other bikes and try that before I would split the cases
My 1997 kx 125 was doing the same thing revving fine on stand but when driving would bog, it ended up being the exhaust was plugged cleaned it up and then it ran great, just a suggestion good luck.
I had a KX like this when I was a kid bought used power band wouldn't come in, until two tanks of gas, then it woke up and was awesome! Enjoying this series, brings back memories.
Adjust the fuel air mixture on the carb. Put the clip on the centre mark on the throttle needle. On the carb, turn the mixture screw all the way in then back it out 1.5 - 2 turns. Then turn it clockwise until revs drop, then turn anticlockwise and revs will pick up and stop when they start to drop. Note where the revs dropped both ways and turn mixture screw to centre between where revs drop. That should be optimum fuel range. You may have to alter turning the mixture screw left or right to get best results. If you do, turn just 1/8th of a turn at a time. Engine runs great on tick over and starts well. It is just fuel mixture.
I have the same bike!! Picked it up for $400 cash great 125 for being made in 1989 I have loads of fun and a smile on my face every time I ride!! Cool vid man
Does it have a cdi box? It might not have enough spark when calling for higher rpms.You could also rig up another source of a small gas tank to make sure that your oe tank , cap and cap vent isn't the issue. Does the petcock have internal screen that could possibly be clogged? Don't remember if you installed a inline filter or not but if you did it might be restricting a little bit. Make sure your plug wire isn't arking anywhere from cracked insulation. Maybe try a different coil from one of the other kx bikes you have. That is where I would start and that is my opinion. Keep up the great work and video's. Love watching you young people reviving old or abandoned bikes, 4wheelers, 3wheelers, snowmobiles, cars and trucks.
When idle hangs (Lean) you need to adjust the AF screw inwards. Start from almost all the way in and work yourself out until it doesn't bog when you rev it. Before you attempt any tuning, set you float and needle height back to stock. Make sure your jets are close to stock and not overly large or small. Its much easier to work from a baseline than attempting to adjust on unknown. Also, clean the powervalves as they most probobally gummed up. These KX's are awesome, I had one when I was 16 years old back in the 90's..
@@johnscovel3170 depends if the screw is airbox side(air screw) or inlet side(mixture screw) that kx has an air screw, turning in makes the idle mixture richer
Air leaks on 2 strokes cause tons and tons of extremely frustrating problems. Check from the start of the system all the way through the engine to the exhaust. Carb/intake seal, carb to reeds seal, reeds themselves, reeds to engine, cylinder head seal, cylinder seal, crank seals, etc etc.
@@averagecarguy420 it’s a 1988 cr125 two stroke and yea my compression is kinda low but still good enough to run but I have low spark and a head gasket leak
My kx is doing that exact same thing. Found out the timing mark on the case was not lined up with the timing dot on the kips shaft. I hope it solves the issue
@@2vintage how’s the reeds cage itself check for gaps sounds like it’s going lean as soon as you take off. But idle and revs great on neutral.. 🤞🏻🧐 I’m sure you’ll get this going
Looks like an '89 modle kx125, that was the first year of the case read engine, and 1 radiator on the LH SIDE. it was introduced on the 125s only. I worked at a Kawasaki, Suzuki dealership in the '80s as a service tech, I remember removing them along with Suzuki's since we sold both brands from the shipping crate and setting them up ,looks funny to see one now, lots of fun, . I'm getting old.
If the boot on carb or exhaust isn't great, find a proper ID piece of silicone piping (used in turbo applications) and a good set of hose clamps. Should be a decent solution that doesn't leak. For top end stutter, check your coil and spark too, otherwise it has to be a fuel/air issue. Check your stock jetting and needle/float position and start there (remember to reset your air/fuel too). Other thing could be your silencer is gummed inside and its running bad.
Go to Home Depot and check the plumbing section for a new boot. They might have something there that can fit the carb to the motor or slide over the old boot.
It would be nice if Joe got some decent tools and equipment. I.e. Seal the concrete floor, install proper lighting. Buy a motorbike lift, get all the basic consumables, buy a hydro blaster, small spray booth. etc. It's not a lot of money, and it will totally transform. The bikes, the channel and the resale of the bikes.
Great suggestions! I'm slowly trying to buy new and better tools as I go. Eveything you mentioned is what my goal is. I just need some more space for it all to go. Working on getting some land now. Just taking a bit longer than expected. Thanks for watching!
The other commentors really Gave excellent advice, covering all my own points. A thorough cleaning, does wonders. As for that pipe, after brake clean and torch cleaning it out, plug one end, very solidly couple of clamps rubber plug, then fill it with water, use a thick rubber grommet on the fill side ,heat up those dents with the torch, stick pressure washer end to the grommet on fill side and feather the trigger, those dents will pop completely out.
I'd say you're not sure what the previous owner may have done to compensate for the bogging when he had the bike. So I think you need to get back to the base settings. Get the carb, needle settings, jets, spark plug and timing all set back to the stock settings and work from there. Anything you are doing now is possibly compensating for HIS COMPENSATING for the bogging he was experiencing .....it's a vicious circle when you don't know what the other guy did. Good luck....always love your process on these bikes.
To check the kickstart side seal open the oil filler plug and have it running if you feel a heap of air coming out or you can see the oil bubbling tends to be that crank seal.
Love this channel. I just picked up a mint ‘98 KDX220 that had been sitting locked in a enclosed trailer for 5 years. Changed oil. Carb was clean and it had a new spark plug. Tank had already been drained. Put gas in it and it started right up. Just went ahead and rebuilt the carb because when in gear the bike won’t let me go past half throttle. It’s ripping at half throttle but it’ll try and just bog out any more the half. Waiting on my new reeds to come in before I put the carb back on. Took it for a whole day of trail riding last weekend. And then ordered everything to make it 100% new again after had some fun on the trails.
Sounds like a problem with the spark because it cuts off like that, almost like the rev limiter, you could put the cdi from the other bike in to see if that's the problem
U can build a set up to remove dents, like I said before. All plumbing supplies, 1” inflatable bung with a line pressure tester. Add 15lbs of pressure and run map gas over the dented area til the dent disappears
Hey joe I had the same problem on my 4 stroke where it seemed like it was cutting out due to fuel it turn out it was the wiring harness I would double check the wiring harness and see if you see any exposed wires good luck hope it helps.
Tuning or jetting id say. You are supposed to tune the idle and air/fuel mixture while it's running. Do a compression test and then take it apart maybe?
hey bud, im guna suggest the coil itself.. sounds to me like its breaking down under load.. but yeah, i,d swap out the carb and coil see how it goes,at different times of coarse.. Nathan..
Sounds like a carb related problem joe think it's a matter of eliminating 1 thing at a time you will get there for defo take care and hope its nothing major thanks for the video 🔧🔧🔧👍
I have the exact same problem on my 2 stroke am6 bike, haven’t been able to solve it yet, tried everything that I can think of. I have heard that this problem can be related to bad piston rings tho
Check pics of plug conditions, white/lean, brown/just right, black/roo rich. I couldn't see white on the plug like you said, but the plug tells the lean/rich condition in certain throttle conditions but you have to kill the engine at certain RPMS. It's simple once you learn it. Let it warm up, kill engine, swap the plug brand new, start then rev it out and then kill the engine, read the plug, this tells you the carb/run condition at high rpm and lets your diagnose a little better.
Idle adjusting. Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open. Start with air screw 1.5 turns out. Warm up engine and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+ Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle. Adjust air screw an 1/8 turn at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds. Re adjust idle screw for desired idle . if the air screw ends up being more than 2 1/2 turns out the pilot is too big. if the air screw is less than 1/2 a turn out the pilot is too small. This is a set and forget process and the air screw should only be adjusted if temperature or elevation changes idle speed. The correct transition onto the needle circuit is also set by this process, messing with the air screw upsets the needle setting
You'd love my 250 timber wolf it's bored out to 350 with a new cam, piston,rod and I believe it has a new crank. I got it for free. The guy that gave it to me asked me to fix everything that was wrong with it so I made a list of everything and it was going to be about 500$ to fix everything he wanted fixed. The exhaust is rusted completely out front brake cable is broken and the carb needs to be replaced I got the carb working good enough to test drive it a couple of times before the carb gave up on life for good. I've never seen a timber wolf stand up in 1st 2nd and 3rd Gear and she's fast it's sketchy on wet roads. Anyway I figured you'd like that.
Hey bud i had the exact same bike The bog off the bottom is because the throttle slide is worn and its leaking air past at idle hence why it sounds like it won't settle nicely. Think the problem up top is jetting or the only time i heard something similar was when a bike had pushed the electrode shut against the tipon the plug .
Take carburettor apart, and clean it in Ultrasonic cleaner. Change out nozzle and nozzle needle, it gets worn out. Had same problem on my mc. Fixed the problem.
A white plug means a lean running condition. Ideally, you want to see a golden brown color. Did you test BOTH crank seals? How about the boot connecting the carb to the cylinder? Cracked fuel lines can also introduce air into the system and run it lean.
In a pinch, you can cut a long strip from an inner tube and wrap it around the baffle and stinger. Had to do that on some bikes that I could not find a rubber connector for.
Damn that bike sounds like hell when you rode it!!!! Lol. . I would say carburetion, reeds and that power valve sounds AFU !!! That means " all fucked up". Lol
to get dents in the pipe out you have to cap both ends and have a fitting on one end so you can pressurize it with air. Then heat the dents and they will push out.
Had a kx125 that did this , previous owner rode and refilled it in the dunes, tank had pretty much clogged with sand. Cleaned tank, tap and carb, she wheelied everywhere after that
You should always blur out your tags on vehicles alot of strange people out there and you have a good bit of followers I enjoy your videos so stay safe so you can continue to post them...
Had a CR125 that was doing the same thing. Bolts that mounted the ignition coil to the frame were loose so it wasn't grounded properly. Coil itself could be bad might be worth swapping one over from the other bike and see if it makes a difference.
Take the motor out tear it down get gasket kit clean and inspect the power valves I found on my 90 kx250 they the left valve was good but the right was wore out causing them not to open close properly it’s a sweet bike show it some love it’s worth it!
@@2vintage you might wanna check the power valves that are in the cylinder because mine they were all chewed up and they were not opening because the way it is set up they have gears and if they’re not set up correctly they won’t open fully but that lever was coming out but it was still hitting the powerband but if you still have problems with the power valves just take them out and the reeds in that bike could be wrong or the carburetor isn’t opening all the way or something with the air and fuel mixture screws
Grab a piece of truck radiator hose for the intake if you can't find a boot .Or look for something at a diesel performance shop . They have boots for turbos etc
never had much success with epoxy on rubber stuff as it is not flexible and ends up just falling off after a couple of heat cycles. would love to find one of these to work on but that's a £2500 bike in the UK as it sits at the moment! the worlds gone mad
there is a way to get the dents out its kinda hard to explain , so you cap the ends of the pipe off with flat plate and rubber seal from like a old innter tube with a jerry rigged bracket set up and the side that connnects to the engine , you drill a hole on the center of the plate , and pull a car tyre valve stem though there you inflate the exhaust with air like a car tyre , and you warm the areas that dented with a blow torch being carefull not to blow a hole though the exhaust , we have done it this way since the 80s lol
Air/intake leak if some kind and with that bike being 30+ yrs old & you already addressed possible carb & intake issues leaking crank seals would be high on the list IMHO.
Don't try to jet around an air leak. Google how to build a leak down tester. You can make one super cheap out of parts from the hardware store. Using carb cleaner is not an accurate way to find an air leak... Also you should be able to easily get a new intake boot from Boyesen.
You can make one out of a spark plug...and break the porcelian part out and weld adaptors on to add air... I have a kit i bought decades ago but if a plug is odd sized i make one ...
When I got a problem like that some times I ride it with choke on to see if it helps. If it does then you need more fuel or I will turn the fuel off or almost off and if it runs better just before it runs out of gas then your getting to much fuel. Both these work best while riding hard to tell by just idling. But you prob seems to be full throttle or 3/ 4 throttle which is the main jet. If float height is off it effects every throttle position. But the float height usually don't change by itself so I don't usually mess with that. If it ran good at one time the float didn't change its height itself but with that bike you never know what the last person did. But I would set float to stock height. And set all other settings to stock. Air screw,needle clip. Carbs do go bad some times even though it looks normal
Just because the actuator arm is working, doesn't mean the power valves are actually opening. The Powervalves are notorious for snapping, and they no longer make OEM replacements, so you have to get an aftermarket set
The mule video is coming soon! Just taking a bit of time waiting for parts. The banshee is coming soon too. I'm waiting for the right conditions to ride and a camera man to film.
The cut out at the top doesn't seem fuel related, I'd think if it were fuel it would be more bog. Yours sounds like a distinct cut on cut off. Maybe a stator/timing/wiring/ground/coil issue? Could also be that the KIPS valves aren't timed correctly and opening too soon or too late. You'd have to remove the head to check that. Also you should be able to look up a service manual PDF online to help you check the power valve timing. Good Luck!
I was so looking forward see you test ride it till you kept seeing something else to tinkle with haha!!! Love the video!!! I haven't see what you did with muffler like clean it before put back on? Like one of comment below mention it being clogged up.
Not sure, my 87 had a complicated power valve that would carbon up, can't remember exactly, believe it did affect the power... Disassemble and clean, back to the track!!
I'd pull the carb off and give it a real good cleaning. The right side crank seal would make the bike smoke like crazy because it's drawing in the gear oil. I really don't think it's the right side crank seal. I had this issue with my '89 KDX200 which the motor is based off of the KX125 and it was an air screw/jetting issue.
Check your KIPS vales. I'll bet the left one is broken. My 90 was doing the same thing and that's what it was. Pull the pipe and do your best to see if they are actuating when you pull the governor rod. Warning: The valves are sometimes hard to find as no longer available from Kawasaki. If you can't see thru the exhaust port you will have to pull the head.
Oh and depending on the time of the year (and elevation) I run a 45-48 pilot jet, a 152-158 main jet and needle set in the middle position with the air screw adjusted out .5-1 turns.
What do you think the problem with this bike is?
Please SUBSCRIBE and LIKE the video if you enjoyed! It really helps me out a lot!
Check out my Instagram: 2_vintage_
Thank you for all the support!
May have crack in engine so where
Joe use brake cleaner for the header pipe washes out all the old gunk oil inside the pipe works perfect
My bog was all in the exhaust. Took it off ran great, needed new one. Silencer.
If you use a heat gun and put it on one end of the pipe it cleans out all the carbon build up and extra fuel that’s in it. Are you can use a torch and an air compressor, I used a heat gun and it completely cleaned my pipe and exhaust
Coil had loads of kx the same coil braking down
Joe I don’t think you’re getting enough gas I think all your problem is in the carburetor, I would swap out from one of the other bikes and try that before I would split the cases
or bigger jets
I agree sounds like lean hesitation
th-cam.com/video/CVBWd-KSzJAy/w-d-xo.html6
@@user-lm8fx6kc1b im pretty sure he knows how to clean a carb bud
Lets get joe to 200k guys 💪💪
My 1997 kx 125 was doing the same thing revving fine on stand but when driving would bog, it ended up being the exhaust was plugged cleaned it up and then it ran great, just a suggestion good luck.
i’ve got a 2 stroke at the minute with a plugged exhaust and it’s doing the exact same thing
I had a KX like this when I was a kid bought used power band wouldn't come in, until two tanks of gas, then it woke up and was awesome! Enjoying this series, brings back memories.
Adjust the fuel air mixture on the carb. Put the clip on the centre mark on the throttle needle. On the carb, turn the mixture screw all the way in then back it out 1.5 - 2 turns. Then turn it clockwise until revs drop, then turn anticlockwise and revs will pick up and stop when they start to drop. Note where the revs dropped both ways and turn mixture screw to centre between where revs drop. That should be optimum fuel range. You may have to alter turning the mixture screw left or right to get best results. If you do, turn just 1/8th of a turn at a time. Engine runs great on tick over and starts well. It is just fuel mixture.
yes he should try that
I have the same bike!! Picked it up for $400 cash great 125 for being made in 1989 I have loads of fun and a smile on my face every time I ride!! Cool vid man
Does it have a cdi box? It might not have enough spark when calling for higher rpms.You could also rig up another source of a small gas tank to make sure that your oe tank , cap and cap vent isn't the issue. Does the petcock have internal screen that could possibly be clogged? Don't remember if you installed a inline filter or not but if you did it might be restricting a little bit. Make sure your plug wire isn't arking anywhere from cracked insulation. Maybe try a different coil from one of the other kx bikes you have. That is where I would start and that is my opinion. Keep up the great work and video's. Love watching you young people reviving old or abandoned bikes, 4wheelers, 3wheelers, snowmobiles, cars and trucks.
When idle hangs (Lean) you need to adjust the AF screw inwards.
Start from almost all the way in and work yourself out until it doesn't bog when you rev it.
Before you attempt any tuning, set you float and needle height back to stock. Make sure your jets are close to stock and not overly large or small.
Its much easier to work from a baseline than attempting to adjust on unknown.
Also, clean the powervalves as they most probobally gummed up.
These KX's are awesome, I had one when I was 16 years old back in the 90's..
If you turn AF screw in it will get leaner fool
@@johnscovel3170 depends if the screw is airbox side(air screw) or inlet side(mixture screw) that kx has an air screw, turning in makes the idle mixture richer
Does anyone else like that he apologized to that one sticker before he took it off lmao
Air leaks on 2 strokes cause tons and tons of extremely frustrating problems. Check from the start of the system all the way through the engine to the exhaust. Carb/intake seal, carb to reeds seal, reeds themselves, reeds to engine, cylinder head seal, cylinder seal, crank seals, etc etc.
Yeah lots to check
My bike only runs when I bump start it. Could it be because I have engine leaks or just because I have weak spark
@@Goon_Toob you could also have low compression. Is it a 2 stroke or a 4 stroke?
Kx 125's of that vintage are know for crank seals. And you have to split the cases on them to replace.
@@averagecarguy420 it’s a 1988 cr125 two stroke and yea my compression is kinda low but still good enough to run but I have low spark and a head gasket leak
I have watched too many of your videos at this point. Subscribed and thanks for all the content!
My kx is doing that exact same thing. Found out the timing mark on the case was not lined up with the timing dot on the kips shaft. I hope it solves the issue
You got 2 other bikes there try one of the carbs off them.
Exactly I’d try another carb it looks like a knock off pwk.. and another thing id do is take the slip on off and see what it does
@@Bdeezy92 I'm trying that next video. We will see what happens
This ones worth the fix. Let’s see that rebuild Joe🤟🏻
Check that power valve
I agree will be tearing into it.
@@2vintage how’s the reeds cage itself check for gaps sounds like it’s going lean as soon as you take off. But idle and revs great on neutral.. 🤞🏻🧐 I’m sure you’ll get this going
May be the bull pin near the heffer gear good luck mang
th-cam.com/video/CVBWd-KSzJAy/w-d-xo.html5
Looks like an '89 modle kx125, that was the first year of the case read engine, and 1 radiator on the LH SIDE. it was introduced
on the 125s only. I worked at a Kawasaki, Suzuki dealership in the '80s as a service tech, I remember removing them along with Suzuki's since we sold both brands from the shipping crate and setting them up ,looks funny to see one now, lots of fun, . I'm getting old.
Husband loves watching your videos. Especially the mule one
Thank you for teaching me all the knowledge I know now off your videos for dirt bikes and quads please keep the hard work going brother!
If the boot on carb or exhaust isn't great, find a proper ID piece of silicone piping (used in turbo applications) and a good set of hose clamps. Should be a decent solution that doesn't leak. For top end stutter, check your coil and spark too, otherwise it has to be a fuel/air issue. Check your stock jetting and needle/float position and start there (remember to reset your air/fuel too). Other thing could be your silencer is gummed inside and its running bad.
Hotter plug. Just tinker with it, you'll find it.
The mid to late 80s kawasaki and hondas are my favorite looking bikes sweet ride
Go to Home Depot and check the plumbing section for a new boot. They might have something there that can fit the carb to the motor or slide over the old boot.
th-cam.com/video/CVBWd-KSzJAy/w-d-xo.htmlt
Put bolt in radiator shroud. It will bend it back when you ride. Great job!! Awesome channel!!
i literally just looked at the yt notification for your vid and saw it and i got happy
It would be nice if Joe got some decent tools and equipment. I.e. Seal the concrete floor, install proper lighting. Buy a motorbike lift, get all the basic consumables, buy a hydro blaster, small spray booth. etc.
It's not a lot of money, and it will totally transform. The bikes, the channel and the resale of the bikes.
Great suggestions! I'm slowly trying to buy new and better tools as I go. Eveything you mentioned is what my goal is. I just need some more space for it all to go. Working on getting some land now. Just taking a bit longer than expected. Thanks for watching!
The other commentors really Gave excellent advice, covering all my own points. A thorough cleaning, does wonders. As for that pipe, after brake clean and torch cleaning it out, plug one end, very solidly couple of clamps rubber plug, then fill it with water, use a thick rubber grommet on the fill side ,heat up those dents with the torch, stick pressure washer end to the grommet on fill side and feather the trigger, those dents will pop completely out.
I'd say you're not sure what the previous owner may have done to compensate for the bogging when he had the bike. So I think you need to get back to the base settings. Get the carb, needle settings, jets, spark plug and timing all set back to the stock settings and work from there. Anything you are doing now is possibly compensating for HIS COMPENSATING for the bogging he was experiencing .....it's a vicious circle when you don't know what the other guy did. Good luck....always love your process on these bikes.
To check the kickstart side seal open the oil filler plug and have it running if you feel a heap of air coming out or you can see the oil bubbling tends to be that crank seal.
So close to running fine!... split them cases Joe! Its time for surgery🤙
🤡
Love this channel. I just picked up a mint ‘98 KDX220 that had been sitting locked in a enclosed trailer for 5 years. Changed oil. Carb was clean and it had a new spark plug. Tank had already been drained. Put gas in it and it started right up. Just went ahead and rebuilt the carb because when in gear the bike won’t let me go past half throttle. It’s ripping at half throttle but it’ll try and just bog out any more the half. Waiting on my new reeds to come in before I put the carb back on. Took it for a whole day of trail riding last weekend. And then ordered everything to make it 100% new again after had some fun on the trails.
It’s also hitting power band unlike yours. It feels like it’s 100% throttle at only 1/4 or 1/2 throttle
Maybe rebuild your KIPS system
Crank seals always go bad anyway but they could be the problem if really bad..hopefully u can do it without splitting the case..
There are tools on eBay to hook an air compressor and use heat to blow them out for 70-80$ but that’s up to you
Your videos are clean and easy to watch. Great information as well. Please keep up the great work!
Thank you!
I don't think that you know what you are doing most of the time.
Replace the crankshaft seals that will make it run good had the same problem hopefully you fix the issue
You might try swapping the carb from one of the other 2 kx's and the pipe if one of them has a decent one. Good luck, I'm sure you'll figure it out!
Sounds like a problem with the spark because it cuts off like that, almost like the rev limiter, you could put the cdi from the other bike in to see if that's the problem
I agree. it breaks down under load but rev's up fine in neutral. Suspect bad CDI and/or coil
U can build a set up to remove dents, like I said before. All plumbing supplies, 1” inflatable bung with a line pressure tester. Add 15lbs of pressure and run map gas over the dented area til the dent disappears
Hey joe I had the same problem on my 4 stroke where it seemed like it was cutting out due to fuel it turn out it was the wiring harness I would double check the wiring harness and see if you see any exposed wires good luck hope it helps.
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check it over
It seems an eléctric problem. I Will check the CDI or the coil. Good job!
Tuning or jetting id say. You are supposed to tune the idle and air/fuel mixture while it's running. Do a compression test and then take it apart maybe?
Compression was high
200k,guy should be at 1 million.love the vids.
hey bud, im guna suggest the coil itself.. sounds to me like its breaking down under load.. but yeah, i,d swap out the carb and coil see how it goes,at different times of coarse.. Nathan..
Sounds like a carb related problem joe think it's a matter of eliminating 1 thing at a time you will get there for defo take care and hope its nothing major thanks for the video 🔧🔧🔧👍
Did you check your air boot for holes? in between your carb and air filter. I had the same problem my bike bogged exactly like that
Yes I repaired that last video
I have the exact same problem on my 2 stroke am6 bike, haven’t been able to solve it yet, tried everything that I can think of. I have heard that this problem can be related to bad piston rings tho
Check pics of plug conditions, white/lean, brown/just right, black/roo rich. I couldn't see white on the plug like you said, but the plug tells the lean/rich condition in certain throttle conditions but you have to kill the engine at certain RPMS. It's simple once you learn it. Let it warm up, kill engine, swap the plug brand new, start then rev it out and then kill the engine, read the plug, this tells you the carb/run condition at high rpm and lets your diagnose a little better.
Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain
when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Warm up engine and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw an 1/8 turn at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
if the air screw ends up being more than 2 1/2 turns out the pilot is too big.
if the air screw is less than 1/2 a turn out the pilot is too small.
This is a set and forget process and the air screw should only be adjusted if temperature or
elevation changes idle speed.
The correct transition onto the needle circuit is also set by this process, messing with the air
screw upsets the needle setting
You'd love my 250 timber wolf it's bored out to 350 with a new cam, piston,rod and I believe it has a new crank. I got it for free. The guy that gave it to me asked me to fix everything that was wrong with it so I made a list of everything and it was going to be about 500$ to fix everything he wanted fixed. The exhaust is rusted completely out front brake cable is broken and the carb needs to be replaced I got the carb working good enough to test drive it a couple of times before the carb gave up on life for good. I've never seen a timber wolf stand up in 1st 2nd and 3rd Gear and she's fast it's sketchy on wet roads. Anyway I figured you'd like that.
You have 2 spare bikes, I would try substituting parts one at a time to see what changes: CDI, plug, coil, carb, reed valve etc.
Change the coil
Hey bud i had the exact same bike
The bog off the bottom is because the throttle slide is worn and its leaking air past at idle hence why it sounds like it won't settle nicely.
Think the problem up top is jetting or the only time i heard something similar was when a bike had pushed the electrode shut against the tipon the plug .
What was connecting your pipe to your silencer was a plumbing fitting, called a hubless connector.
th-cam.com/video/CVBWd-KSzJA6/w-d-xo.html5
Take
carburettor apart, and clean it in Ultrasonic cleaner. Change out nozzle and nozzle needle, it gets worn out. Had same problem on my mc. Fixed the problem.
A white plug means a lean running condition. Ideally, you want to see a golden brown color. Did you test BOTH crank seals? How about the boot connecting the carb to the cylinder? Cracked fuel lines can also introduce air into the system and run it lean.
First thing that you need to check is the spark plug,i had the same problem on a moped
Great job joe
In a pinch, you can cut a long strip from an inner tube and wrap it around the baffle and stinger. Had to do that on some bikes that I could not find a rubber connector for.
Nice vid. Id replace the reeds from one of the other bikes. Ive had the same problem and was caused by aftermarket reeds. Never know🤷♂️
Ahh yesss, the beauty of trying to find the correct carb jet sizes 🥴😅
I would definitely replace the crank seal on the flywheel side to eliminate it on some Kawasakis you have to split the cases to do so not sure on a 89
Damn that bike sounds like hell when you rode it!!!! Lol. . I would say carburetion, reeds and that power valve sounds AFU !!! That means " all fucked up". Lol
to get dents in the pipe out you have to cap both ends and have a fitting on one end so you can pressurize it with air. Then heat the dents and they will push out.
Had a kx125 that did this , previous owner rode and refilled it in the dunes, tank had pretty much clogged with sand. Cleaned tank, tap and carb, she wheelied everywhere after that
You should always blur out your tags on vehicles alot of strange people out there and you have a good bit of followers I enjoy your videos so stay safe so you can continue to post them...
Back at it
Had a CR125 that was doing the same thing. Bolts that mounted the ignition coil to the frame were loose so it wasn't grounded properly. Coil itself could be bad might be worth swapping one over from the other bike and see if it makes a difference.
Take the motor out tear it down get gasket kit clean and inspect the power valves I found on my 90 kx250 they the left valve was good but the right was wore out causing them not to open close properly it’s a sweet bike show it some love it’s worth it!
I got a brand new 2020 raptor 700r and I use to have a 03 predator 500 I wouldn’t have know any of this if it wasn’t for you bro so thank you 🙏!
You got this joe💪
Love the videos. I got a 89 kx125 that I’m refurbishing
Nice, how is that going?
@@2vintage going great
@@2vintage you might wanna check the power valves that are in the cylinder because mine they were all chewed up and they were not opening because the way it is set up they have gears and if they’re not set up correctly they won’t open fully but that lever was coming out but it was still hitting the powerband but if you still have problems with the power valves just take them out and the reeds in that bike could be wrong or the carburetor isn’t opening all the way or something with the air and fuel mixture screws
Make sure you don’t have any cracks in engine ?
That throttle valve needle just dangling there gives me major anxiety haha.
Grab a piece of truck radiator hose for the intake if you can't find a boot .Or look for something at a diesel performance shop . They have boots for turbos etc
never had much success with epoxy on rubber stuff as it is not flexible and ends up just falling off after a couple of heat cycles. would love to find one of these to work on but that's a £2500 bike in the UK as it sits at the moment! the worlds gone mad
there is a way to get the dents out its kinda hard to explain ,
so you cap the ends of the pipe off with flat plate and rubber seal from like a old innter tube with a jerry rigged bracket set up and the side that connnects to the engine , you drill a hole on the center of the plate , and pull a car tyre valve stem though there you inflate the exhaust with air like a car tyre , and you warm the areas that dented with a blow torch being carefull not to blow a hole though the exhaust , we have done it this way since the 80s lol
The boot is easy to get. Your bike has a Boyesen Rad Valve, it's not OEM. Contact Boyesen and they should be able to get you one
Yess
We used a Rad hose for my buddys z400 intake book, worked pretty good was kinda hard to find tho
Air/intake leak if some kind and with that bike being 30+ yrs old & you already addressed possible carb & intake issues leaking crank seals would be high on the list IMHO.
Been loving the videos lately, also can you get a Yamaha yfz450 I just bought one and it rips
Don't try to jet around an air leak. Google how to build a leak down tester. You can make one super cheap out of parts from the hardware store. Using carb cleaner is not an accurate way to find an air leak... Also you should be able to easily get a new intake boot from Boyesen.
You can make one out of a spark plug...and break the porcelian part out and weld adaptors on to add air... I have a kit i bought decades ago but if a plug is odd sized i make one ...
WD works good for cleaning but, dust sticks real bad in dry, sandy riding areas.
th-cam.com/video/CVBWd-KSzJA6/w-d-xo.html4
When I got a problem like that some times I ride it with choke on to see if it helps. If it does then you need more fuel or I will turn the fuel off or almost off and if it runs better just before it runs out of gas then your getting to much fuel. Both these work best while riding hard to tell by just idling. But you prob seems to be full throttle or 3/ 4 throttle which is the main jet. If float height is off it effects every throttle position. But the float height usually don't change by itself so I don't usually mess with that. If it ran good at one time the float didn't change its height itself but with that bike you never know what the last person did. But I would set float to stock height. And set all other settings to stock. Air screw,needle clip. Carbs do go bad some times even though it looks normal
Just because the actuator arm is working, doesn't mean the power valves are actually opening. The Powervalves are notorious for snapping, and they no longer make OEM replacements, so you have to get an aftermarket set
I would try going with a bigger jet and checking the reeds , best of luck !
You should get another cr 85 i love those little builds
Good luck dere bud, and a go pack go!
Damn man I'd say you definitely do have a project this time I'm clueless to what it could be then again I'm just a rider no mechanic LOL
Nice but hey weres the Mule video man can't wait and why haven't you rode the banshee killer yet?!!!!!?
The mule video is coming soon! Just taking a bit of time waiting for parts. The banshee is coming soon too. I'm waiting for the right conditions to ride and a camera man to film.
@@2vintage cool man watch you all the time keep it up you do good work.
The cut out at the top doesn't seem fuel related, I'd think if it were fuel it would be more bog. Yours sounds like a distinct cut on cut off. Maybe a stator/timing/wiring/ground/coil issue? Could also be that the KIPS valves aren't timed correctly and opening too soon or too late. You'd have to remove the head to check that. Also you should be able to look up a service manual PDF online to help you check the power valve timing. Good Luck!
I was so looking forward see you test ride it till you kept seeing something else to tinkle with haha!!! Love the video!!!
I haven't see what you did with muffler like clean it before put back on? Like one of comment below mention it being clogged up.
Right side crank seal. Just look at the exhaust you pulled the evidence is right there!!
I thinks its the clutchcable that is too tight. I had the same problem, and it was the clutch cable that was too tight.
Try to see if there is a leak in the head gasket it will buble up if it has a leak and btw man love the content
Not sure, my 87 had a complicated power valve that would carbon up, can't remember exactly, believe it did affect the power... Disassemble and clean, back to the track!!
take a carb of 1 of the other bikes ..or even try both.. see if that helps..👌👍 love your vids
I saw that 1980_81 KDX 175 in the back 😂 I’ve got the same exact bike
Paintless Dent Removal Puller Dent Lifter Tool Line Board Repair Hammer Kits for the exhaust pipe.
I'd pull the carb off and give it a real good cleaning. The right side crank seal would make the bike smoke like crazy because it's drawing in the gear oil. I really don't think it's the right side crank seal. I had this issue with my '89 KDX200 which the motor is based off of the KX125 and it was an air screw/jetting issue.
if you have a problem with the boot try cutting a innertube putting it over the boot and reinstall clips this will salve the problem with air intake
Check your KIPS vales. I'll bet the left one is broken. My 90 was doing the same thing and that's what it was. Pull the pipe and do your best to see if they are actuating when you pull the governor rod. Warning: The valves are sometimes hard to find as no longer available from Kawasaki. If you can't see thru the exhaust port you will have to pull the head.
Oh and depending on the time of the year (and elevation) I run a 45-48 pilot jet, a 152-158 main jet and needle set in the middle position with the air screw adjusted out .5-1 turns.