BD Athlete Adam Ondra: The Road to Tokyo
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- BD Athlete Adam Ondra is arguably the best rock climber in the world. In the past, he’s also been dedicated to competition climbing-a format he has excelled in, with countless podiums and world championships-but recently his focus has been on the real stone. However, with the competition scene entering the big stage during the 2020 Olympics, Ondra has decided to give everything to indoor climbing in hopes of taking home the gold. The first big test? Next month’s IFSC World Championships in Innsbruck, Austria. Check out this video that documents Ondra’s recent training on the long road to Tokyo.
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I always do 1-5-9 on the campus board to warm-up too...
jlehm 1982 😂💀😭
Does anyone know the board in the video is at 22cm spacing?
climbing is one of the only things I have that makes me truly truly happy, and at this moment I'm sitting at university without climbing as an available outlet. I'm actually tearing up just watching this because I feel like I'm missing out on a huge part of my life.
Theres gotta be a climbing community at your uni unless its crazy small. Even then there probably still is
nearest gym is an hour away by car. I picked this specific college because of their big ass rock wall, but little did I know it got torn down for renovations. I'll have it next year, but for now there's nothing.
There's just something so beautiful and humbling about watching someone lead climb. The power and dedication needed to learn technique and footwork is astounding.
The format for climbing in the Olympics (all 3 disciplines) is like making all the "running" athletes compete in : Sprinting , Long distance and hurdles. It's such a weird choice , they're very different disciplines. Yes they all involve climbing , but sprinting and long distance both involve running , yet they're very different and the athletes stick to their respective disciplines for good reason. Must have been somebody that knows nothing about climbing that made that decision.
Speed is a rather minor discipline imo, if there is only one medal to give it should be lead climbing.
Honestly I think it's due to the fact that the IOC was only willing to give one competition to climbing. Hopefully if these games are a success we'll see separate disciplines as well as the combined event.
100% agree. However, while it's a bad set up, it is a good step forward for climbing and its integration into the Olympics. I suspect because it's so new, they're incorporating it slowly/evaluate things more carefully. It kind of reminds me of what they did with some of the snowboard events in the Olympics. 2014 was the first year they included slopestyle, and they followed up with big air in 2018. Hopefully in the upcoming ones they'll appreciate all the different disciplines of climbing and we'll see separate events!
As ridiculously idiotic as it may be, the upside to it is once in a life time experience watching Adam and other top sport/boulderers suffer speed-climbing :P
poor Adam....the format for Climbing in the Olimpics just sucks!
I'm good with the combination of advertisement and climbing videos. The more a sport starts to grow and gets more recognition, the more endorsement and sponsors will come in. But thats great for the professional athletes and for the growth of climbing itself!
This Guy is awesome! So much Aestethic in his climb.
I hope he will get the Prep for Tokyo.
Finally, we see some reaction to speed climbing from the pros. And I guess it is the reaction we were all hoping for! : D
So psyched to see climbing in the Olympics! Adam is surely going to kill it!
Love seeing my climbing gym like this! :)
Very well made video, loved it!
Hope Adam gets gold, one of the few, perhaps the only competitor from another country i'll really be going for he's such a great climber. It really is a shame speed climbing is part of it, so ridiculous to have 3 disciplines in one when all 3 are just so different. Putting a bouldering champ up against a speed climber champ is like putting a gymnast up against a runner, it makes zero sense.
What an awesome Video, great cutting and Adam is impressive as ever :D
Regardless of how Ondra places in the Olympics, he will always be my favorite climber.
Excellent Video.
I've been waiting for this video since the instagram post!!!!! ahhhhh
Yo Black Diamond... What happened to Adam's Canmore footage? We saw episode 1, waited on episode 2, then episode 1 got removed...?
Hi Scott. Unfortunately, we had to remove the video due to a request from the Canadian Provincial Parks. There was an issue with the permitting process. We were looking forward to it as well, as the footage was top notch and Adam is always super inspiring to watch. We'll keep the content coming in the future, so stay tuned!
If not, I can give you my email address. I promise I won't share. 😘
So is that footage unusable? Or will it be used for another media project at some point? Would be sad to not get to see it.
For now, we can't publish the footage. Trust us, we know how sad it will be if that footage never sees the light of day. Hopefully one day!
What's exactly the problem? Do the " Canadian Provincial Parks" fear that they get flooded with climbers and all the possible negative side effects?
Negative Nancy chiming in. I'm glad to hear he also hates speed climbing. It feels the least personal of all climbing styles to me, too.
Onsight speed climbing would be fine, but the fact they climb the same route over and over makes it boring.
ArbitraryLifestyle Sean McColl likes all
ArbitraryLifestyle Jacob Schubert too
Including speed climbing is preposterous. As if competition climbing on artificial walls wasn't enough of a circus already.. What the fuck?
Agree with the other comments. Speed climbing is boring to train, boring to watch.
perfect. Just get to the gim, put on some chalk, and board campus maximum level lol
Definitely I will cheers for him! Amazing ahtlete and an amazing sport!
Who thinks Ondra will get gold?!
I think Jan Hojer will get the gold medal
Juggling Jakob Schubert IS better than Adam in speed. But If think Adam/Jakob/Sean or/And Cornu/Megos possibly on the podium
Hojer is my favorite, but who knows Adam is amazing climber, really dedicated person, so it will be really interesting to see guys who don't really want to compete in something but really have to. Tokyo we are all waiting!
Hojer is very successful in all disciplines so has good chances to win the race. If you are only good at one or maybe two discipline it won't be enough probably
No way to know who might slip off a key hold in real time, is there? No matter how they score it, there is no real way to determine who is "best" on 5.15/V16 level climbing because it is just so insecure and many moves are low percentage, dynamic moves that also involve temperature-dependent friction as well. A hold could have been warmed a few degrees by the previous climber, the atmosphere, or have more chalk built up as the day progresses, a breeze could pick up or something else.
Ondra is one of the best, but he even admits he doesn't do speed climbing, so that right there has to be a major liability too, right?
Some other machine out of Eastern Europe (or maybe Japan) who has plenty of funding is working 100 hours a week right now on all these disciplines and could easily come out of nowhere and win. This isn't really "climbing" in the sense of what Ondra does a lot outdoors... I think for that reason Ondra won't win.
It's weird they didn't handle it like gymnastics. Multiple events you can medal in, then having an All-Around medal, as well as team medals. With the goal being to get a podium spot in the All-Around, and helping your team do the same. Hopefully after Tokyo, they'll make changes in that regard.
Maybe they'll do that for next time, who knows.
i have to wonder just what "experts" were involved in this whole thing, frankly.
Well then you could make the argument as to why skateboarding, which is coming in 2020 as well, has 2 disciplines (park & street) but its two separate medals.
Getting your sport into to olympics is no easy task, they chose to combine it as 3 so they could sell it as a something that requires strengh (bouldering), fast(speed) and endurance(lead). Olympics boards like those 3 types.
Insanely good video
You guys should be happy to have lead and bouldering represented in the Olympic games. IOC wanted the speed to be represented (more than Bouldering and Lead... :’(. ) and there is only one medal... whatever, the real essence of climbing will be forever in every climber DNA... Now this guy Adam, gave the right message for the next Olympic Games...
Gonna be a good show
great video!
The decision to group the three Climbing disciplines into one for the olympics was absolutely stupid. Making a lead climber do speed is like making a 10k runner do the 200m sprint.
I agree
I'd actually prefer a combined primary event where you get the best athlete in every single part. Winning it all is by far the undisputed best climber. A bit like Tour de France actually. You have different disciplines (climbing, sprinting and endurance) but you get a total point which will determine your winner of the entire competition, as well as awards for the best one in each discipline.
Only it would be like including standing on your handle bars in the Tour de France simply because a minority consider it cycling.
Like climbing with your ears? When you remove the cycling from cycling, it doesn't really represent the same thing. In cycling you have very different training methods all in one competition. Granted that some are stronger in certain areas compared to others, but that would be the same in climbing.
In climbing you have different disciplines but all consist of climbing. The same can be said about cycling. Different disciplines with different attributes to focus on, different training methods etc.
Fine, bad comparison. Try climbing slabs without hands. Johnny Dawes does it, so should we also include it as a discipline? My main issue with speed it that its a total niche discipline. Probably 1 out of every several thousand climbers would identify as a speed climber as opposed to a boulderer or route climber and the majority of climbers see it as a fairly pointless pursuit. It's earned it's place in the Olympics because of its association with real climbing and a bad decision by the IFC.
future olympic gold medalist for sure
True inspiration!
There should be individual medals for each discipline, boulder, lead, and speed for each gender. Then an all around competition of all 3 disciplines for a single medal.
most ppl will agree but in Tokyo it'll be a "demonstration" so there can just be one competition.
Great advertisement of the future. 😉
Ještě že nadáváš česky a většina lidí tomu nerozumí. Jinak super video, v Innsbrucku jsi byl dobrej a těším se na Tokyo.
Nice ad
hater hahaha
Right now, in the moment, I suppose if it is just Lead + Bouldering, it is betwenn him and Jakob Schubert. He also lives in Innsbruck and he is also shown in the video. He is also very strong in Lead + Bouldering, has won World Cups in both disciplines and is in excellent shape right now.
But how those two do in speed, i have no clue.
Also never count out Jan Hojer, since the Lead routes get shorter and more and more bouldery without rest, he has more of a chance. I've heard he isn't too bad in speed at all, and that right now, and not only in two years.
Then, what about Sean McColl? The last two years weren't that successful i suppose? Still, he is a very well balanced allround climber and not exactly weak or an outsider.
Still...
Two years are a lot of time and a so often in climbing, there may be a few surprises from a few dark horses. And it is all about the form of the day ;)
@Video:
Seems more of a ad for 1.) Innsbruck 2.) Black Diamond (ATC Pilot?) 3.) La Sportiva (for the Solution climbing shoes - i hate them!).
It is so funny that BD copied the Edelrid Jul^2, made a plastic handle and sells it as their own new product, as if they invented anything of that (so, Apple style) hihi
Tomoa Narasaki is a serious contender in males. Excellent boulder, very good and improving in lead, and can do speed at the moment below 7s (by the olympics probably much better).
Also, quite young.
of course!
I just picked out 2 of the "old guard" as an example :)
mccoll a lil bitch dough
speed-climbing is a real sport but it is more like a track-and-field event then climbing climbing
Wait, will the climbing be in the olympics be a combination of all 3 of these types? That makes no sense!
If this doesn't inspire you as a human being I don't know what else will.
I think there should be 4 medals. One for each event and one for the overall
Hi climbing friends from all over the world. Does anyone know the name of the backpack, which is adam using when he enter the gym? Thanks and a good climb to all of you. Greetings from switzerland
Hi Lars, it's the Pipe Dream 45. Cheers! www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/climbing-packs/pipe-dream-45-pack-BD681159DTRCM_L1.html#cgid=climbing-packs&start=17
They should do speed like how psycobloc does, where the routes aren’t stupid easy and people aren’t just running up them
Interesting technique putting his thumb over his finger at about 1:49 . I have never seen anyone gripping a hold like that! Has anyone tried it and seen better results than with a normal open handed / half crimp position?
Yes it helps you bite down, but not recommended to novice or longevity.
Yea its a great technique and helps out with very hard crimps. Although try to avoid using it especially when bouldering as it puts alot of strain on your fingers and is a technique that can easily lead to injury.
putting your thumb over is a very old-school technique that he probably learned in the Valley from someone like Kauk....that was in Basic Rockcraft (initially published in 1971), if memory serves me correctly...
@@BAlvn-yr6ej wow cool, never knew it was such an uncommon technique... Thanks for the info :) . That book might be a worthwhile read gonna see if i can hunt down a copy :D
I hope I got that right...note that I did say "if memory serves" ... anyways, even if i'm wrong it is a classic text and worth reading and having in your collection...Author was "Royal Robbins" who was a famous American climber who died just last year after an illustrious career including the FA of many classic climbs.
Hey why not have a music list?
where is this again
The 4th discipline is slowmo! A necessary thing for every pro climber.
down climb, upside-down
Who makes so shorts???
Would be interested in his speed climb time from this video? :)
i wish i were the guy who belayed adam ondra :(
How much pressure would that be though?
not as much as the honor and pleasure ;)
Hey black diamond could you tell me what model of back pack Adam has here. Thanx
Hi Barni, it's the Pipe Dream 45. Cheers.
Where in hell is this paradise at? It's so big and got so many options. Never saw a wall like that.
Innsbruck
4:55 I know this is an ad, but if it wasn't, we'd see a Grigri here, right.
Hate the gri gri mate.
Same, but it's standard for competitions. And they recommend it for training because of the added safety.
@@SuperAhmed1337 you made me wonder and I just checked IFSC's regulation book, they do not recommend any belaying device in particular. I then watched lead comp in Briancon and Arco of 2018, and the guys use belay plates, but in Kranj of 2017 they use Grigris... Anyway, thought it was interesting :)
whats the music track at the end?? anyone?
Only watching this because we have the same last name and probably related because I’m also Czech
as a climber i just have to ask who the hell was putting the olympic version of climbing together ? i mean yes, i understand that you should be a complete athlete to compete at the highest level, but speed climbing only pertain to a few routes that are exactly the same every time, why not set a route and then see who gets the best time ?
also the combination is a strange thing, i have never see one medal to be given out for three different dash disciplines
thanks Adam to say the truth about the olympics... Money is ruling this world and climbing world doesn't except...
you do see the irony to this comment, i hope? this video (and Ondra) was sponsored by a commercial, for-profit company...i'm not sure why he needs it, Ondra is a rich kid with no responsibilities to begin with, but such is money...people almost always want more of it, don't they?
so what ?
4:14 OMG!
MY DUDES NECK IS LONG AF!
are there no mats there? holy shit looks dangerous
Are you blind? There’s a mat under the bouldering walls, it’s just the same colour as the regular floor.
im not talking about bouldering walls, im talking about the speed climbing ones
He is strapped into an auto belay system, why would you need mats?
Speed climbing should be on sight climbing with big moves, good holds and varying technique that can be utilized quickly on a wall that changes its angles as you send. Its not exciting to watch a powerful, clever climber do a wall that is all muscle memory and agility.
UkSapyy agreed. It is garbage.
so basically like Arco Rockmasters, or Psychobloc. 1 on 1, lead route, observation + 1 training climb.
COme one Adam !! :D
what knot is he tying in with @4:52
He's finishing his bow line knot with a stopper knot
I believe he always uses a bowline.
@@tacticalchunder1207 yes, except in comps where they have to use a figure eight
Schubert?
wtf, is that really the first move he makes at the gym?!
Watch Ondra doing speed just gave me cancer....
brainfuck
the producsplacement is real
5:14: "You have to be FAAT" lol. Or FED?
Philipp Puchner Fed
fit?
nah, pretty much faat, since he is so skinny you know ;) You need to be really fat to get enough contact strength to hang the slopers, especially when laybacking them.
Adam said for the first time he has to do something, to train something he hates. Maybe eating? Much? Gooood stuff? :)
why does he sound like george takai when talking
he was robbed in Innsbruck. He was easily the best climber there and it wasn't even close
Speed climbing SUCKS. It has no sense in climbing world.
the fact that they are going to include it speaks volumes about this whole competition. it clearly isn't getting much input from climbers...they want to turn climbing into some kind of freakshow.
putting climbing in the olympics is really a mistake, the whole thing, at least the way they are doing it.
Omg why did he call this training video. It most certainly is not
nice bd comercial
Lonk neck
5.0105.0101. 05.01. is she on Facebook?
Very silly guy
He needs to let his body rest. Take 2 days off from climbing and let your muscles heal
Belex he's not on steroids wtf
Shave that unibrow dude. Lol
only useless gays do that
Gibillan Magnificul or guys that wanna get girls that don’t smell like nature. Lol
@@suggs144 or guys that take it up their clean shaven ass👆
Gibillan Magnificul I don’t know if you’re trying to diss me or not. I’m not clean shaved. And I don’t grow A unibrow. Lol you must have a crush on him or something. You look just like him ugly. 😂😂😂
Speed is lame
Am I the only one upset that... the IOC is calling Sport Climbing "Lead Climbing"?
They're also calling the overall category of climbing "Sport Climbing". It's like they just grabbed a handful of buzzwords and attributed them however they wanted. It makes no sense and it will probably be harmful to the climbing community. Imagine searching TH-cam for "Sport Climbing" videos, and you get a bunch of Olympic bouldering and speed climbing videos. *facepalm*
I just want to put my 2c in as a traditional climber, coming from a fairly old-school camp. I started in the early 80s in Southern California where the traditional ethic was still strong, there were no climbing gyms and true bolt-every-2-meters sport climbing was nearly unknown. Sure, there were some bolted lines around on the faces of J-Tree, Suicide, and elsewhere but they were almost all bolted ground-up, and in some cases there was great fall potential, or natural gear was also involved.
Climbing was never an 'exercise' or even really a 'sport' in the way that, say, tennis or soccer was. It was (and is for many) an adventure and a personal expression involving many aspects of one's being as well as unknowns in the natural world.
What the gym and sport crowd brought to the climbing world has included many negatives and also led to many people getting injured and killed and created more of a circus atmosphere that can be very dangerous, and it can take away from climbing for people into it for more traditional reasons, and also can lead to abuse of the natural world.
Introducing it to a much, much wider audience (the whole world) via an artificial and contrived sport approach, while still calling it "rock climbing", can only lead to further degradation of the traditional activity of climbing, as well as many more (as if there haven't been enough already) "5.11" gym climbers getting killed or maimed on 5.6s at Joshua Tree and elsewhere.
Every time a gym climber gets "Lifeflighted" out of the desert (which is way more often than you read about in "Rock and Ice" I'll tell you that....) it hurts the whole community, and makes climbers look bad, and also is a big drain on limited resources, and 80-90% of those cases are for the very reason I'm saying. Before climbing gyms that was a very, very rare incident. People who climb outdoors know how serious ANY climb (even just 3rd or 4th class) can be. The difficulty rating doesn't tell the whole story like it does indoors.
Climbing should be presented the way it originated...at least, they should have one event of real rock, traditional rock climbing included. Sure, that would be inconvenient, but I think it would be the only responsible way to present climbing to the world. In the Winter Olympics, they ski on real mountains, don't they? I'd say they didn't damage that 'sport' at all, because it is still very very serious and people do still get hurt in the competitions. But what they are going to do to climbing by presenting a neutered, completely safe form of it, will cause irreparable damage and, as I say, lead to a lot of bad things.
I started climbing in 1978 and have seen all of the changes in great detail, and I utterly disagree with this retro-conservative view. The sport has always involved risk and skill and always will. You think that climbers weren't taking poorly-judged risk back in the 70s and 80s? Lol you must have been climbing in a very different environment than I did. The death rate of my fellow climbers was even higher than it is now. It is all a matter of learning your personal limitations. Cry me driver about gyms and plastic climbing, but how do you think that Alex Honnold and Chris Sharma found the sport? Going back a bit, Lynn Hill was famous for comp climbing long before she freed the nose.
I realize it is hard to keep up with the times. It is rough when a young gym kid can cruise a climb you can't even do the first three moves on. After 40 years, climbing continues to humble, challenge and certainly, inspire me. Climbing belongs to the entire world now and not just a special group of outcast suburban white boys and the sport continues to evolve. It will do so as long as there are climbers and gravity.
@@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 Very well put
I must certainly agree with Freestyle. Besides, how would the make competitions on real rock? Most beautiful climb? Fastest? (that would be way too dangerous). Hardest? (also way more dangerous that it already is. You can't keep it consistent either.
The reason why there are a lot more injuries today is only because way more people actually climb today than in the 70's and 80's.
I think you’ll find competition climbing is never referred to as “rock climbing”. It’s wall climbing, comp climbing or just climbing. The sport was always going to evolve. Look at surfing, now pro comps are held in wave pools! Accept the bad, embrace to good, evolve but remain true to the sport’s routes. It’s possible to have it all.
you can still go climb the old way if you want. Try not to worry about what other people are doing. They don't have to live their lives your way
But will he win? He's bedn nothing but a over hyped climber who didn't live up to his reputation. Win or go home Adam.
He currently holds the title for climbing the hardest known route in the world. How is he over hyped ya big butthead.
@@Adsjabo so have many other climbers. That don't mean anything. Where are all the 10+ chris sharma predicted all those years ago. Where are all the world titles. He's not any better than othet so called best climbers in the world
I think speedclimbers have better chance to win overall than lead/boulderers, so we can conclude that if you can climb fast you are the best overal climber.