How to STOP Unwanted Dog Behaviors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มี.ค. 2019
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Remember, we always want to focus on the science of dog training. If you have a behavior that you would like your dog to repeat, then you want to reward them for that behavior. If you have a behavior that you would not wish them to repeat, then you would want to correct that behavior.
Before correcting our dogs, we want to determine if we are dealing with an obedience issue or behavioral issues. If we are fixing a behavior issue and that behavior is not based on fear, then we can correct it day one. If the behavior is based on fear, then we can not correct it. This is very important. If we try correcting behaviors that are based on fear, then it will only make the issue worse. If we are dealing with obedience issues, then we need to make sure that the dog knows the command we are asking them to perform and the dog also must know how to turn off pressure by complying. At that point, we can then give the dog a correction for the obedience issue we are having. For example; the dog doesn't want to stay in a sit stay, so when the dog gets up before being released, we can give the dog a correction for choosing not to stay in the sit stay.
Follow this proven step by step process to get results!
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I am also a dog trainer, have been since 1969. I have 8 dogs and you are correct. I use the same techniques and it works. Excellent talk.
Thank you! 😁
The best dog trainer.
Thanks! :)
Nates manual is by far the most helpful and valuable tool to have to help anyone to train their dog. And pairing that with all of his awesome videos, you will have one rock solid dog.
Awesome! Thank you so much!
What manual? How do I get one?
@@michaelellison1109 On Amazon
Just type Nate's name in the search bar and it will come up.
You can either buy a paper copy or digital copy. I have both and its both the same. Good for reading on the go.
The title is
Nate Schoemer's Dog Training Manual: Animal Planet's Dog Trainer Shares His Dog Training Secrets
I also bought that book. And English isn't even my native language. Nate is in my opinion the number one of all dog trainers on youtube.
Probably the most valuable 10 mins of dog training info on TH-cam 👌🏻
Thank you, Michael! :)
@@NateSchoemer Oh dude thank you for all your content brother
Awesome explanations once again. Thanks for this video, Nate!
My pleasure! I'm glad you liked it. :)
Thank you so much for your videos. You have empowered me as a dog trainer for my first time pup.
How do you know if your puppy is whining in his crate due to fear or out of manipulation?
This was helpful
Hi Nate! Thanks so much for your vids, they've helped me a TON with my rescue whippet. When I got him a year ago he was terrified of other dogs and he is now completely over that as well as completely over some separation anxiety. He's trained in a ton of agility tricks as well as obedience, with a very good recall and heel off leash (not perfect yet) and is generally well behaved, but we do have one unwanted behavior I have no idea how to fix: whenever he starts playing with dogs, he'll start barking REALLY loudly at them, not to get their attention, but as if his idea of playing is screaming at the top of his lungs at the dog chasing him / being chased. This happens also when they are running after a toy, he won't get aggressive but he will bark insanely on the way to the toy and then have a fun tug once they both get to it.This is ok with some dogs, but the vast majority of them don't like being screamed at while playing and just stop engaging with him, so he doesn't get to play a lot of the time :(
Since he was rescued at age three, I have no idea what his puppyhood was like, or if he learned playing skills with siblings. He's very nice when not playing, sniffs everyone and lets others sniff him, not aggressive at all. It's just the playtime that's the problem.
Do you have any suggestions for us? Shaking coins at him is out of the question because that would scare/correct the other dog as well, and since this only happens of leash, the martingale is no use. I have no idea how to correct him without discouraging him from play.
We would really like to be able to play nicely with all the other dogs, he's very social and he has a ton of friends in the park, he just doesn't know to get along with them properly!
Thanks in advance!!
Thanks! Yes, I would redirect to a different behavior. If you haven't done so yet, I would suggest reading through my dog training manual. I discuss how do deal and work with issues just like this one. You can get it free (kindle version) right now on Amazon: amzn.to/2P2tyQH Cheers!
@@NateSchoemer Thanks! I'll check that out :)
Awesome video! I got a question tho, how can I tell if my dog is barking to people out of fear?
Another great vid. Do you have any material about corrections? I mean what can I do to correct my dog for doing wrong/not doing what asked? Negative marker 'No' but what else?
Great question. I cover the use of corrections in my training manual. I'm going to add a link to another good source for adding corrections, the right way. :) Training manual: amzn.to/2O20zJN Video course on corrections: university.leerburg.com/Catalog/viewCourse/cid/100
Hi Nate, just discovered your youtube channel and subscribed, love the content, really well put together! Wondering if you cover this one of your videos - over the last year my dog has become increasingly afraid of strangers to the point he refuses to get out of the car at times. I'm trying to positively reinforce meeting people with treats but many times he's uninterested in the food, even if it's high value. How can I help a timid dog be more comfortable in social settings?
Thanks! Check out this video and jump to 7:30 th-cam.com/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/w-d-xo.html
@@NateSchoemer thank you! I was totally unaware of fear periods. This sounds spot on.
Hi Nate,
Thanks heaps for your videos that have been tremendously helpful for us.
We have an Aussie Cattle Dog. Pretty durable breed and loves to nip at ankles and hands.
We've been leash popping since we got him 2 weeks ago. Accompanied with a 'No'
Now it's almost as if he see it as a challenge when we said 'No' he starts barking and nipping at us and it almost makes him worse.
Any advise on this one mate?
Thankyou again for your time.
Saxon
Thanks! They usually stop when they are done teething at 6 months of age, but If the puppy enjoys biting and you want to stop it, then You may need to use a correction to stop the behavior. Correcting the behavior with a quick leash pop. However, you should keep this in mind when adding corrections:
Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior.
If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept. It's important to remember that every dog has their bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act.
In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear.
Leash pop: This is when you make a snapping motion with the dog’s leash to engage the training-collar to give the dog a correction (a positive-punishment). If you're using a flat collar and that's not working, then you may need to use a prong collar to stop the behavior.
I hope this helps!
I love the use of children and video games! The more I train my dogs the easier it is for me to train the rest of my family. I’ve used it with my donkey and he has went from running away to coming up to my gate. He turns about and backs up respecting my space to enter his field.
LEASE PULLING - Enjoying your videos very much. We are on day three with out 9 week old Golden. Working on the basics of the coming home and routine and have found your advice invaluable. I am stressed because he really does not like any lease restriction or pulling. If I try to stay in the area we have decided for potty training he will fight the 6ft lease restriction to where I think he will hurt himself and I pick him up, reposition/redirect and start again. Some trips have been successful and we praise and play. I am trying to stay in that area until it is time for the play reward or go back inside to the crate and try again. I tried some Initial experimenting and it seems to show he may be too young to start even your basic training suggestions, what age can we start? Maybe he just needs a little more time to adjust? In a low distraction environment today I tried some, come when pressure, mark, reward but the little guy exhibited some I'm going to sit here even if you have a reward. He even flinched and sat back down while looking at me, like nope I'm not doing it because you want me too. He seems to like praise and making us happy in other things. Overall he has been a great pup so far and we are very excited to have him in our home. Do one of your videos address this? Patrick
Hi, Patrick! I like to start training a puppy right away, the sooner the better. Start the training in a area with very little distractions and go through the basic obedience series. The series is designed to be watched in order. Start with episode one and work your way through. I would also suggest watching these two videos before starting the series: th-cam.com/video/OvdKDE326gs/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/uT3I3Xpwmeo/w-d-xo.html
Nate, do all dogs go through the fear stage? I have a 6 month old puppy right now and she doesn't seem to be afraid of anything except running out of food. I have really tried to expose her to a lot of stuff, loud motorcycles, cars, people, other dogs (quarantine makes that a little tougher right now), etc. Is it one of those things that "you'll know it when you see it" type of things? Or can you actually prevent some of that fearful behavior by desensitizing as a young pup?
Great question! Not all dogs go through a fear period. It also helps to do what you've been doing by exposing the dog to different things as well as desensitizing. It sounds like you're doing a great job with the imprinting and raising of your dog! :)
Hey Nate, I’ve used your videos to diligently train my GS mix puppy to a T (6 month old) and she’s incredibly food motivated and holds focus well! Something I’ve recently discovered however, is that she will aggressively resource guard kibble toys/feeding puzzles with my parents family dog (who is also 7-8 months). I had her on a house leash to avoid any behavioral accidents, and was able to yank her away from brawling with their pup who also responded aggressively to the challenge. But not before she left a good scratch on my family pup’s muzzle and drew some blood. They play nice any other time and with chew toys so it was a little unexpected.
I’ve practiced some training by leaving a kibble toy near my dog, while on a short leash and having my mom enter the room slowly with their pup, while I distract and praise my dog with high value treats before she engages in the behavior... is there anything else you suggest I do to aggressively nip this behavior in the bud? I don’t want anyone getting hurt and I absolutely do not want to sweep it under the rug (like just never feeding them together) or avoiding family visits.
The best and safest option is to simply putting all toys and food out of site when the dogs are together. Anytime I have a group play session with a lot of dogs, I always make sure they don't have anything to fight over. It's very normal for dogs to fight over resources. First, you want to keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing an undesired behavior that is not based on fear, then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior.
It's important to remember that every dog has their own bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior.
But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out.
On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account.
I hope that helps and thank you for supporting my work, I really appreciate it. If you want to support my channel even more consider becoming a patron. My goal is to improve the quality of life for all dogs by educating those who care for them. Your support helps me focus on that mission every day! www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer
Hey Nate! My rescue GSD barks when people walk by the front yard. We have an invisible fence, but it irritates the people who are walking by. She doesn’t bark when I am there though, it is only when I am inside. I’m wondering how to correct her? Do I come outside when she barks and give her a physical correction? I’ve tried that but she is just excited that I’m outside…
My dog got attacked on one of our walks a few months ago and has began lashing out at other dogs recently since then (even ones she used to be friends with). She will be curious and have her tail wagging, sniff and greet them but later will snap at them or try to bite. There have been too many instances to recount but I had read behavior like this can result as trauma after a dog attack and I believe she is fear reactive. How can I train her not to bite at dogs that approach her being the behavior is likely fear based? A trainer had suggested the prong collar but I don’t want to make her behavior worse as you said.
Yes, it sounds like a fear based behavior due to a traumatic experience, as you said. Any behavior that is being driven by fear can not be fixed using positive punishment. If you did use positive punishment (Prong collar) you would most likely make the fear worse. Instead you need to use counterconditioning and desensitization. Jump to 7:30 in this video: th-cam.com/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much! I haven’t been able to take her on walks for the past several weeks sadly because there are sooo many loose dogs that could potentially approach her. :( should I avoid walking her on a prong collar altogether?
Hello Nate! Thank you so much for your vidoes...I am trying very hard to be a good student of yours for my 3 month old Golden Retriever. I do have a question about growling. Our puppy has growled since we got him (moving him from a sleeping position, checking for ticks when he is laying down, sometimes just for what seems no reason when he is laying down on me). I have read not to correct growling as the dog is trying to tell you he doesn't like something and is giving you a warning before a bite...but I also don't want him to think he can growl whenever he wants. I would love to hear your opinion on this...to be honest, I am concerned about it, but am not sure if this is normal behaviour or not.
Send me an email with your number and I'll give you a call, so I can explain what you need to do in more detail. Thanks! NateSchoemer@gmail.com
Hey man! Really love your videos and I’d greatly appreciate your advice. My puppy is 14 weeks old, Australian Shepard, and most of the time he’s doing well! In some situations, especially when he’s excited he suddenly turns crazy and starts biting and barking in a more aggressive and not playful manner. It’s really hard to correct him in those moments, since he will just keep aiming at my hand in order to bite it. He will bark loudly for several times and won’t calm down. When I brought him upstairs he again, he then ignored me. Any advice on how to handle those aggressive biting/barking situations, how I can show him to obey even in those “crazy” moments? Thanks a lot
Hi Tom! I would have footage of it to know for sure what's taking place. I offer this service through my Patreon account. You can see it here: www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer Thanks!
@@NateSchoemer could you offer a short response to this, as my pup does something very similar. thanks
Hi Nate, love your videos and currently using your techniques to train my puppy gsd. He is now 13 weeks old and is out and about walking, but he's barking at every dog he sees. What is the best way to break out of this habit please?
Thanks! You'll most likely have to correct the behavior to stop the dog from practicing it. Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior.
If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept. It's important to remember that every dog has their bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act.
In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear.
Leash pop: This is when you make a snapping motion with the dog’s leash to engage the training-collar to give the dog a correction (a positive-punishment). If you're using a flat collar and that's not working, then you may need to use a prong collar to stop the behavior.
I hope this helps!
Thanks so much for taking the time to reply!
So how do I stop my dog from chasing my cats? He finds it enjoyable and I am not sure how to correct him and stop the behavior. I have been learning how to give him commands though so that all three animals can coexist peacefully but it's difficult because he isn't a puppy.
Nate have a question for you. Trying to get my service dog to stop begging. I’ve been sending him to “his spot” while I eat. Now he is starting to whine. Should I move “his spot” so he can’t see the food? If I do that due to how close we are he’s going to whine more. Help what do I do???
You have a couple options.
1) Ignore him and don't reward him when you finish eating. eventually, he'll lose hope and stop begging.
2) Move him to a different location so he can't see you, as you suggested.
3) Correct him for whining. Check out this video to see the process: th-cam.com/video/bPkW3SWblfM/w-d-xo.html
Hi Nate.
Your videos are really awesome. I am training my 8 months old American labrador by using ur lessons. Iam a big fan for ur lessons. I have a query. My puppy behaves very well everywhere except in the car. When he sees any animal like cows or dogs outside, he growls n barks very loudly n never listens to me. How can I correct that. Pl. Guide me.
Thanks! Yes, you would most likely have to issue a correction.
I talk about this in detail in my dog training manual: amzn.to/2P2tyQH
Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior.
If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept. It's important to remember that every dog has their bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act.
In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear.
Leash pop: This is when you make a snapping motion with the dog’s leash to engage the training-collar to give the dog a correction (a positive-punishment). If you're using a flat collar and that's not working, then you may need to use a prong collar or remote training collar to stop the behavior.
I hope this helps!
My Labrador retriever tears clothes , what should I do?
Do you have any advice for correcting fear based behavior? I have a rescue who is fearful of adult males, especially large ones, which is difficult and frustrating for my 6'3" deep voiced husband as she barks at him every time she sees him, including every time he enters a room.
Yes, I cover this in version 3 of my dog training manual. It's not completed yet, that's why it hasn't been released, but it's about 95% there. :) If you send me an email, I'll send you that section. Thanks! NateSchoemer@gmail.com
@@NateSchoemer That would be amazing, thank you!
Email sent!
Hi Nate, my puppy always scratching/digging before he lays down which is fine on his bed but not when it’s done on sofa or carpet. I just wondered if you’ve had this with any of your dogs and would you correct them for doing it?
Hi! I would just give the dog the down command and, if needed, reinforce with leash pressure, not allowing him to scratch. I hope that helps. Cheers!
What do I do when my dog growls about the correction? Example - dog is super fixed on paper tissues found on walks. Dog knows the command leave it super well for treats, but also Leave it/Drop it for tissues in the house, in the garden, in training setups. Dog ignores Leave it and Drop it on a walk and wants to eat a paper tissue - dog gets correction - still ignores command - gets another correction - growls. What to do?
Ah, i think Nate's book probably answers that as well: don't correct the dog over the same thing again and again. Rather "help" the dog to find the right behaviour. Will try that next time. Now I feel guilty and like I have been cruel to my dog.
How does keeping a dog in the garage/backyard during work hrs affect the dog? does it increase unwanted behaviors ?
I don't have much of a choice whether he is inside and the best place I have is the garage with access to a decent sized backyard for now, is that okay ?
Yes, that's fine as long as he still receives some kind of mental stimulation, exercise, and affection when you come home. It doesn't have to be for long, maybe 5-10 minutes of obedience each day, 5-10 minutes of play or exercise, and some pets and affection. Also, if you live in a colder area, make sure he can stay warm during the day when you're at work. I've known people to buy a bunk bed on craigslist and then board the sides up and add a small dog door. This helps keep the heat in and gives him a place to relax and stay warm. Cheers! :)
Hellro Nate.....love your training techniques and tips for the lay person. I sent my friends your TH-cam videos and they feel the same. I have a question for you. I have a 4 mo old Shiba Inu that was rehomed to me recently. They did not work with her on nail trimming or bathing. I took her to the vet yesterday and asked them to trim her nails. They said they couldn't because she was so difficult to handle and that they could not sedate her because she is so young and only 10 pounds. I understand that most Shiba Inu's to not like to be touched or held which makes the situation even more difficult. I do take her for long walks and play time with other dogs and tire her out, then I play with her at home with a favorite toy while touching her legs, ears, eye area and paws which she doesn't seem to mind me touching her at that time for short periods of time. I'm sure I will be able to increase the time but not sure if I can get her to cooperate on her own even in the futre. Any advice on how to work with her in a positive way so she cooperates would be greatly appreciate. THANK YOU!
Thanks, Cindy. Some people try to give the dog peanut butter while they trim the dog's nails. The idea is to create a positive association. Others will muzzle the dog and then trim the nails. I prefer to run the dog on concrete for a short amount of time, and that will trim the nails. You can also do counter conditioning and desensitization. I talk about this in detail in my dog training manual. Cheers! :)
@@NateSchoemer Thank you Nate. I will try peanut butter but I think I will have to go through the large jar for just one paw! LOL Seriously, I'll start working on that and hope it will work. I don't have a muzzle and know it takes time to train them to accept it positively. I understand that you have to make that a positive experience as well like giving treats so that they put their own muzzle in it first and continue to work from there until they are comfortable with it. I do take her on long walks but the nails don't seem to be getting any shorter. Maybe because she is only 10 lbs? Another area that I need to get started on. i really appreciate all of your advice and videos. They are so helpful and you are a remarkable dog trainer. I'll check our your dog training manual. Thank you again!
Hi Nate I’ve just been introduced to your videos and I think your explanations are brilliant. Can you advise, I have a 2 yr old and 19 month old male cocker spaniels both intact. The elder is the Alpha and is a very laid back lad, the younger has more confidence outside but has an undesirable behaviour. I understand from your explanation about motivation and punishment but I wonder if you can give any more inside into this..he is fine with any dog at all, doesn’t particularly over react to dogs that show aggression towards him and loves to play however he over reacts to dogs under 16 months ( or about that) , it’s not fear at all and he’s fine at a short distance however he will attempt to go near them and as soon as they show interest he will chase and bark aggressively, sometimes bark in their face before leaving ( that kind of stuff) . It’s usually males and always young, it’s as if he’s trying to let them no he is the boss 🤔
Thanks! Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/ewq_sw0zMr0/w-d-xo.html
Boom! 💥
Thanks! :)
hey nate, what are some physical "no" techniques that I can use if my puppy's "bank account" is not so low. Popping his leash up is not enough for him to stop. For my puppy right now, i put my hand in his mouth a little deep so that he wants it out. that is the only good no technique that I know to do on my dog but i feel like it is too time consuming to do in the moment. what are some quick physical "no" techniques i can try on my dog??? thanks
If I'm using positive punishment, then I use either a leash pop on a flat collar, martingale collar, or prong collar. You can also use a remote training collar. These are great tools, but need to be use correctly or they can cause more harm than good. If you want to go the remote collar route, then I would suggest this course: leerburg.com/ellis-ecollar.php
Hey Nate, first I want to say, thank you for all of the videos. I have been using all of them for training my German Shepherd puppy. My question revolves around the fact we recently got two puppies of much different size. We have a 10 week old German Shepherd (about 20lbs) and a 9 week old French Bulldog (about 6lbs). My concern is the German Shepherd puppy loves chasing and trying to play. There is zero malicious intent. However, I fear the French Bulldog gets scared and reacts due to fear. I would prefer the GS not to chase and scare the FB every time they see each other. I have been using the no command. My two fears are 1) is this a behavior that I should discourage? 2) if I do discourage this behavior I fear this will set the GS up for failure with playing with other dogs. Thank you for all your help and time for reading this question.
Ps Don’t get me wrong, the FB does a decent amount of instigating and giving it back just as much (without the chasing around the room)
If one dog starts to play too hard with another dog. The moment it reaches the level I don't like, then I direct the dog/puppy to a climb command. This way, I'm not discouraging play. It's cause and effect, if the puppy plays too rough, I have to place the puppy on the climb command. They learn very quickly the level of play that is acceptable. I'll usually keep them on the climb for a few minutes before I release them to play again. If the puppy is still being too rough, then I will tire the puppy out with training and play. After the training, I'll let the puppy play again with the other pup. If all else fails, then I correct the puppy with a leash pop when the pup plays too hard. You won't ruin a pup by correcting them as long as you are not yelling at them when you correct. You calmly say one no, then pop the leash, the moment the undesired behavior stops, then praise the pup for making the correct choice. I hope this helps and thanks for supporting the channel.
Nate Schoemer thanks! I will try that.
Hello Nate
I have been watching your videos since right before we got our GS puppy. My question is how to stop our puppy from biting our older dogs , she is biting their legs and nipping at there face . Just wondering what to do about this behavior.
Thanks! I would use a correction to stop the undesired behavior. A correction is anything the dog doesn't like. The purpose of a correction is to stop an undesired behavior. So the motivation not to get corrected, must override the motivation for the dog to do the bad behavior. If that doesn't happen, then the correction is not working. I hope this helps and thanks for supporting my channel. :)
Hi my 14 weeks old german schepard, have starting to bark and react to other dogs.
We also have a 3 year old jack russel that do not care at al of other dogs. And they are great together.
Any sugestion..? Would realy appreciate it..😊
Thanks for commenting and watching this video. Unfortunately, I no longer have enough time to answer every question in the comments section of my TH-cam videos. However, you can always send me questions through my Patreon. www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer
Most of the questions asked have already been answered in one of my past videos. The basic obedience series has been designed to be watched to maximize results. I would also suggest watching my Q&A videos that are available on my channel as well.
Many of the questions are also answered in my dog training manual, which is available on Amazon. amzn.to/2P2tyQH
Lastly, if you're curious about what food, treats, or training products that I use, you can see them listed here: www.nateschoemer.com/store
@@NateSchoemer thansk for answear...😊👍
Hi! How can I correct a puppy that is bitting furniture, eating stuff from the floor and other bad behavior? How can I make him understand the word NO?
Should I just push him away? Each time I push him away, he gets back to biting furniture or doing whatever he wants to.
Thanks!!!
First, you want to keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior.
If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept. It's important to remember that every dog has their bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act.
I hope that helps and thank you for supporting my work, I really appreciate it.
Hey Nate!
Love your content.
I've been training my yorkie on the basic obedience skills for a few weeks now. However, he doesn't perform any of the skills without a reward (treats).
He's been refusing to eat for a week or so, vet gave him meds and vitamins to stimulate his appetite.
I'm worried that if i go back to training him he'll go back to refusing his food again (he loves his treats too much).
What do you think is the best solution to get him back to training?
Thank you!
Thanks for reaching out. I would suggest not using training treats. I never use store-bought treats. Every time I train a dog I will usually use one of three options; The dog's kibble, freeze-dried dog food, or Keto Dog Food from Visionary Pet. :) Super healthy and most dogs love it! visionarypet.com/collections/shop-ketogenic-dog-food | I hope this helps! Also, check out my video on spacing out rewards: th-cam.com/video/a2OBoptftYs/w-d-xo.html
@@NateSchoemer
Hey Nate,
Thanks for your reply!
My yorkie refuses to eat his kibble as a meal or training treats. I've tried several brands, added water also. Any tips on how i can get him to like his kibble? His training has been lagging a bit because of it. Yorkies = picky eaters = frustrated me :/
I have a German Shepard Rottweiler Mix puppy who is 3 months. I read you shouldn’t give them negative reinforcements such as “shock collars”, what should I do to teach them the behavior is not accepted? I just dont want her to become aggressive which I read can be common with that breed. I want her to become an emotional support dog so I’ve been watching your videos!
A shock collar would be positive punishment, not negative reinforcement. Positive punishment when done correctly, will not create an aggressive dog. I would suggest watching my leash pressure video for the proper use of negative reinforcement. I also have a video on correction in my facebook group.
facebook group: facebook.com/groups/NateSchoemers
Here's the link: facebook.com/nathan.schoemer/videos/10213850487672790/
Leash pressure: th-cam.com/video/9L8tK7mSD10/w-d-xo.html
I hope that helps! :)
Hi Nate, I recently adopted a 12ish month GSD/retriever mix. I also have a cat in the home. My GSD has an extreme obsession with the cat, she will sit and stare with crazy intensity at the cat. If my cat moves too quickly, my dog will react and attempt to chase the cat and get in the cats face even if she gets scratched. I assume this is due to a high prey drive. I need to find a way to curb this behavior for both animals’ safety. We do have an e-collar we could use if that’s a good direction to go. Would I attempt to correct her from staring or would I correct once she begins to move/run towards the cat? Thank you.
For safety, you can muzzle train the dog. Then use the concept taught in my invisible boundaries video. th-cam.com/video/R-dDY6QPENE/w-d-xo.html
Basically, when the dog gets too close or you don't like the dogs behavior, say "wrong" then place the dog in the desired location/position with the leash pressure. Continue that until you feel that a correction would be fair. If you're going to use the remote collar, then you have two options.
1) Make sure the dog is directional to the collar and pair the correction with the leash pop. The reason is that you wouldn't want the dog to think it was the cat that caused the corrections.
2) Place the remote collar around the dog's waist and have the muzzle on. If the dog goes to chase the cat, stim the collar. This will instantly redirect the dog to whatever is behind him, since that's where the correction is coming from. He will quickly learn that chasing the cat is no fun. If you want to try this option, make sure that the dog is comfortable wearing the collar on his waist. I often like to get the dog comfortable wearing a flat nylon collar on his waist first. If you want more info on the remote collar, check out this video: th-cam.com/video/ewq_sw0zMr0/w-d-xo.html
Also, check out this video for an understanding on when you should start adding corrections: th-cam.com/video/bPkW3SWblfM/w-d-xo.html
I hope this helps! Cheers!
Hey nate! My 5 month old bull terrier pup is being super protective of me! I train her daily, walk her for 2 hrs, go to bi weekly check ups with my vet, train her with dogs, train her to like people, but she still feels very protective of me! Idk what else to do! When she’s with me or my partner she is very protective, but when she’s with someone else e.i my vet, she doesnt bark or lunge but instead she’s just nervous! Please help idk how to train protective dogs thanks!
Hi, Marielle! That's a complicated question and a written answer may not be enough. I offer zoom/Facetime training sessions. If you want to discuss some possible training options, feel free to email me. NateSchoemer@gmail.com Thanks!
Hi, Nate. My 2 year-old Dobe barks when we are in the car and he sees a jogger, biker or person walking a dog. When he barks, the hair stands up on his neck - not safe for any of us in the car. Is this behavioral or fear-based? What is the best way to correct this behavior? Thank you! I really appreciate your channel so much. Cheers.
Thanks for supporting the channel. I would have to see the dog to know for sure if it was a fear-based behavior or not. Now, this is a lot to write out, so instead jump to these sections in this video: th-cam.com/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/w-d-xo.html
07:30 - I was just made aware of "fear periods", particularly in GSD around 4-5 months. I was wondering if you'd consider doing a video on how to work through this positively?
19:55 - we are moving from a rural area to the city. we will have people walking up and down the sidewalk in front of our street constantly. how do we stop the dogs from barking at them?
45:25 How can I stop my dog from barking at other dogs and people when outside or on a walk? It’s not alerting or aggressive barking, it’s more like wanting to visit and play, but it gets annoying.
It's not a direct answer to your question, but the process would be the same. I hope this helps! :)
Hi Nate, what is the solutions to a dog that bark that based on fear 4:05 ?. Thank you.
Would you not recommend leash popping using a flat collar?
You can, but the leash pop has to be light, so you don't hurt the dog. If the correction is not high enough for the dog, then you would have to move up to a prong collar or remote training collar. Cheers!
My beagle howls like crazy when he sees another dog. If he's doing it because he's scared of them, how can I stop it if I don't give him a correction? I have 3 other dogs, so it's not that he doesn't like other dogs.
Check out this video and jump to 7:30 and 45:25 th-cam.com/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks! I'll check out that video. I appreciate your help and I'm enjoying your videos.
Hi Nate, my dog has been bitten twice recently by other dogs and has now become reactive (aggressive from fear) around large dogs. Any tips on how to correct fear based issues? I don't want to use a collar 'pop' like you said to give him a negative correction on tips of his fear.
Thanks! Love the videos
Thanks! I would use counterconditioning and desensitization. I discuss this in this video: th-cam.com/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/w-d-xo.html Jump to 45:25 and 7:30
Is leash aggression an obedience issue, or a behavioral issue?
One of my dogs (lab mix) is very friendly with the other dogs at the off-leash dog park and at doggy day care, and he's never aggressive toward people (on or off-leash). But put him on a leash and encounter another dog on a walk, and he sometimes transforms into a completely different dog. It's like he goes berserk, even if the other dog is across street, and even if the other dog does not act at all aggressive. He seems to do a little better when walking him alone than if walking both dogs at the same time, and also does better when he is in familiar territory.
Any thoughts on what might be going on? Is fear driving this behavior?
I might add, he is not the "alpha" dog between the two (the other is a female, Newfie/lab mix). She is more mellow but sometimes when he acts up on leash it will incite her to start barking as well (though she doesn't really act aggressive). When walking her alone on leash, she's fine and the usual doofy Newfie disposition toward people and other dogs.
Leash aggression by itself would be a behavioral issue. However, if you have taught the dog to walk on a loose leash and they are choosing not to listen, then it's an obedience issue. Dogs acting aggressively on leash towards other dogs even when they are not aggressive towards dogs off-leash is a very common problem. When you have a leash on a dog it creates a barrier, much like a fence does. You can have two dogs act very aggressive towards one another when they have a fence between them, but once the fence is removed they seem fine. Often when you teach a dog to walk on a loose leash and focus on you during the walk, they are then unable to focus on other dogs during the walk. In the end, you may need to use a physical correction (leash pop with training collar) to stop the behavior. Everything our dogs do is based on motivation. They are either motivated to access something pleasant or they are motivated to prevent something unpleasant. Whichever is more motivating will determine the dog's behavior. This is the same reason why most people choose not to rob the bank. The motivation not to go to jail overrides the motivation to make a quick buck. Therefore your dog must be more motivated to prevent a correction than he is motivated to bark at the other dogs. Lastly, If you are going to use any form of corrections, I do recommend finding a local professional, so they can show you how to do it correctly. Thanks again for the comment and I hope this helps.
Cool info Thanks I have a question U said something about fear thing I My 2 months german shepherd it's afraid when I say No and she will always go under the cars in my compound and it's kinda annoying I think she is afraid when I say No because I correct her once or twice (physical correction) Can you pls help how to stop my dog doing that
Cheers from Albania 🇦🇱
Hi Josif, You can desensitize her to the word no, just by saying no a lot, but not having it predict anything. Our words have value based on what they predict. If you say it enough times and nothing happens afterward, then the word will lose its meaning to the dog. You can also use counter-conditioning. Say the word and give your dog a treat. This will turn the word no into a conditioned reinforcer and she will learn to love the word because it now predicts a reward. Last option, use a different word than no for your conditioned correction sound. I hope this helps! :)
@@NateSchoemer thanks Nate I will try it today when I get her out for training
Hi Nate. How can you see if it’s fear or just bad behavior when your dog is barking at other dog? If it’s fear or nervousness how do I handle that? :)
Hi Rasmus. You would have to read the dog's body language. Usually, if the dog is barking without pulling the leash, then it's fear or nervousness. If the dog is pulling and actively trying to get at the other dog, it could be aggressive or overly excited play. If it's because of fear then this would be one way of dealing with the situation. If you realize your dog is barking to get something or to get away from something, then do the opposite of what the dog wants while they are barking. For example; if your dog is barking to get another dog to go away, then the other dog and human would need to stop moving (you will need a friend with a well-behaved dog to help with this). The moment the dog stops barking, then the other dog and person can start walking away. If your dog barks again, they would have to stop moving again, the moment your dog stops barking, then they could start walking away again. Do this until your dog realizes that its the silence that makes the dog and human go away and not the barking. The idea is that you are showing your dog what you want, by rewarding them with what they want. In this case, it's the dog going away. Thanks for the questions and I hope this helps! Cheers! :)
Hi Nate
Thanks for your answer. I think it’s overly excited play, because he pull the leash when barking and stop when the other dog is close enough so he can lick. When we go away he starts again for 1 or 2 times and then he stops
Nate i need help with my shepherd puppy that eats the rocks on the ground. I have tried to play with a toy or give a treat, but it doesn't work. What i have to do to stop this behaviour?
This is a self-reinforcing behavior, so you may need to correct it out of the puppy's repertoire. Remember, everything our dogs do is based on motivation. They are either motivated to access something pleasant or motivated to prevent something unpleasant. Whichever factor is more motivating to the dog, it will determine the dog's behavior. I talk about this in more detail in my training manual. Also, here is a video I put together on adding corrections using either a martingale collar or pinch collar: facebook.com/nathan.schoemer/videos/10213850487672790/
Dog Training Manual: www.amazon.com/Nate-Schoemers-Dog-Training-Manual-ebook/dp/B07XRJJPQC
I hope this helps and thanks for supporting the channel! 😁🐶🐕
What command do i have to teach him so that he will spit out the rock?
I have a problem with my new puppy barking at the cats 🤦🏻♀️
I have a dog and he’s 3 month old. He is great other than waking me up in the middle of the night. He wants to sleep in my bed with me. I feel like he is scared to be by himself. How do I stop my dog from waking up in the middle of the night and let him know I don’t want to play in the middle of the night and play.
Put him in a crate at night. :)
Hi Itxx! It seems a 2 parts problem: the 'let him know I don’t want to play in the middle of the night' depends on the relationship (you set the rules, you make him respect that). Look for videos on _'pack leadership'._ The 'he is scared to be by himself at night' is about him adapting and learning to be alone. This is done in a _specific, progressive way,_ often using the place command and the crate. Look for videos about _'separation anxiety'._ Keep up the good work and have a nice day!
Do you say no and pop the leash at the same time...or say no and then pop the leash
The word must come before the action for the dog to learn the word. If you do it at the same time, then the dog will never become conditioned to the word. Check out this video to see what I mean. th-cam.com/video/uT3I3Xpwmeo/w-d-xo.html
Hi thanks for vidéo but ma english Bad but i learn thank you
Thanks for watching! :)
Hey Nate, I've been training my puppy following your advice (she does sit, down, spin, heel, center commands and she knows the free and yes terminal markers) I have a behavioural problem with her. She's a female pitbul puppy. I have cats at home, 4 cats, and she likes to chase them, run after them, bark, sometime bite the cats. I tried doing noises, I tried with "NO", I tried leash (avoiding her to chase the cat, and giving food when she focus attention back on me), but for sure I'm doing something wrong. What should I do for her to ignore the cats and not chasing them? Just to clarify, she's not aggressive at all with the cats, she only wants to play, but she plays rough. Could you explain me some kind of training or exercise to teach her to avoid this behaviour ? Thanks in advance.
For sure. I discuss this type of training in my dog training manual. It's free (Kindle Version) until 3/6/21: amzn.to/2P2tyQH Cheers!
But how do you do this with toy breeds 😢
Have a problem where a my pup ignores me and runs off when it’s time to come in
Hi Jackie, I posted a video answering your question in my TH-cam Facebook group. You can get access to the group here: facebook.com/groups/NateSchoemers Thanks!
my dog pee on my legs or shoes when I'm distracted, in the least expected moment, how can i fix that?, when I notice I tell him no, but it doesn't work, and i don think a physical correction would be good in this case, i don't want him to stop peeing and make him think that peeing is wrong and make him hold it, right? it is the one thing that breaks my head thinking of how can i fix this, it is not an easy one.
Great question. I'll be discussing this in my Q&A video tomorrow. Just check the description for where your question is located in the video. Thanks!
Take the pup outside at set intervals (the older it gets the longer intervals) regardless of whether s/he alerts. I started at 30m (3mo) and am up to +/- 45m. Puppies can't tell when they need to potty neurologically so not giving them a chance to go inside (or on you) is key. Marking (few drops of piddle) is another matter.
I have a malinois and he only respects my dad , me only a bit like to let something go he doesn't listen when i say it but when my dad says it he listens
Start reinforcing all the rules and the dog will learn to listen to you as well. They are smart dogs that quickly learn who they do and do not have to listen to.
you explain very well unfortunately your voice is very low
Thanks! This is an older video. If you watch some of my newer videos, you'll notice an improvement in the audio. :)
Sure..i love the way you teach 👍..thank you!
This is badly miked. With any noise in the room it's inaudible.
I agree. Audio has been fixed in more recent episodes. Thanks for watching.
Positive punishment should never be used. It creates fear, stress, and anxiety.