CV Axle Shaft Replacement on Dodge Caliber 2007 - 2012
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2015
- CV Axle Shaft Replacement on Dodge Caliber 2007 - 2012
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We took this video to show you the procedure about replace the cv axle also know as CV Shaft on a Dodge Caliber.
It is about the same procedure for the left and the right side. The only difference is that the left ( driver side) the shaft is shorter than the cv shaft on the right (passenger) side.
If you hearing clicking when taking sharp curves / turns then you most likely have a bad CV Axle.
This procedure should work on:
2006 Dodge Caliber CV Shaft Axle Replacement
2007 Dodge Caliber CV Shaft Axle Replacement
2008 Dodge Caliber CV Shaft Axle Replacement
2009 Dodge Caliber CV Shaft Axle Replacement
2010 Dodge Caliber CV Shaft Axle Replacement
2011 Dodge Caliber CV Shaft Axle Replacement
2012 Dodge Caliber CV Shaft Axle Replacement
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We, World Mechanics, are not responsible for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Information given in this video does not guarantee the desired outcome. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of the tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not World Mechanics. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Video was great help. Just completed my 2010 Caliber. Step by step.. no problems !!
Thanks for your help..
Love the videos save me alot of money and also I'm having trouble trying to find the proper torque specs for parts taken off and put back on I dont wanna over tighten a bolt lol
Really appreciate the video! Thanks guys!
For FWD Calibers you only remove the lower ballpoint and caliper hose bracket, then pop out cv axle at transmission, pull outward on wheel till exits transmission. Replace seal and pull back out on wheel while guiding the shaft back into transmission.Both sides done this way. AWD calibers on right side Require the entire axle removed to replace its right seal due to shaft going all way through PTO for Rear wheel carrier. The left side is done like the FWD caliber.. Rear AWD calibers remove the sub-frame cross braces and the lower control arms, then pop out axles from carrier , they will hang while you replace the seals because you removed the brace pieces.
Great video! keep the videos for dodge caliber coming! I see how you were able to remove the passenger side axle by loosening only the tie rod and strut. You did not remove the ball joint. Could you remove the drivers side axle the same way? Or do you need a pan for the atf? Also, do you need to remove the ball joint on the on the drivers side?
Excellent video, thank you for your work !
Thank You Amigo, worked for me!!!
Thank you for your video. Size of sockets you mentioned were a great help. Problem is I tried to take out the sway bar nuts from 6 pick n pull caliber and could take out on only one because oil from leaked shock from that car lubricated the nut, rest I rounded 2 allen key and failed. I guess till car companies don't install rust proof nuts and bolts, oxy-acet torch is the only secret method removing nuts/bolts that holding regular diy people fixing their cars.
it depends on where you live. This Caliber was in Oklahoma so it was not exposed to rust at all. Thank you for watching us and we hope that you find the channel interesting!
Thank you for the very good and informative video. Now I get the fun of changing the cv axle on my girlfriends car
Thanks guys this helped me!
great video ! help out a lot can u make a video replacement of motor mounts would be great thanks for your help!
What about 2008 SXT with 5 speed manual? On the right hand shaft it has an intermediate bearing bolted to the engine block and a brace at inboard end. The replacement shaft has no intermediate bearing and the brace won’t allow the inboard joint to insert and seat into the transaxle. Is the new shaft an upgrade and the brace has to be removed?
Helpful video seriously each step is their and easy to follow nice
Nice video, unfortunately my Caliber has ALOT more rust and bolt, nut,..etc is almost frozen on. Again very nice video!!!
You guys are awesome!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Nice work
When you reconnect does the wheel axel need to turn ti lock or does it just pop back in??
Is a front end alignment needed after replacing the CV axels on the caliber? It didn’t look like anything was removed enough to need an alignment, but I just want to make sure.
is this the same process for the Dodge Journey? Mine is a UK 2010 2.0 CRD diesel with the 6 speed transmission. Curious why no transmission fluid came out when you pullled the drive shaft out, did you drain it first?
Great video! What transmission is this, CVT or Manuel? Can we anticipate loosing any ATF4 fluid removing an axel half shaft?
You guys.mske great videos, keep up the good work
Super awesome video.
Do you by any chance know where I can get a serpentine belt cover for my 07 caliber sxt
My Axle has thrust in it towards the transmission, is this the side that is bad? When I turn right I hear the noise, but that is the side that feels loose. The left side feels solid. I do not see any broken boots on either side.
EXCELLENT VIDEO!! Your English is PERFECT!!! I saw you skinned the hand up a bit. OUCH. Thank you!! Marty
which way does the seal go in. Not one single of the cv shaft replacement show this. The factory service manual does not show it.. It will to in and everything will bolt up just fine. But if backwards big trans fluid leak and everything you just has to be done again with a new seal
Hello, World Mechanics....what was wrong with the transaxle?
There’s no Support Bearing on the drive shaft?
Like everyone else said, great job! This video was perfect. No b.s. just how to.
This the same procedure as 09 dodge journey? I have not seen anything on a axle replacement for my vehicle.
Wonder if it’s the same procedure for a 2010 Dodge Caravan ?
Do you need it in park or anything
When replacing
Your video was awesome!! I was able to follow it through perfectly and with ease, I do wish there was a re-assemble video but it was great! Thank you!!!!
+Carliena “Lena” Smith We are glad to hear it was helpful! If you ever need help let us know!
There really is no need to have a video on how to re install the axel once you take it out it's pretty easy to replace it just do the exact opposite of the removel. Pretty self explanatory I'd say. And it was easy for me to take apart amd pit the new one in. These calibers are pretty easy to work on I'd say I've done alot to my 09 caliber myself. The struts, axel, ball joints, driver side wheel bearings front and back, calipers, front rotors, front breaks, starter, alternator, now I still have to do the front passenger now cause it's making noise and all the fun sounds coming from the ball bearing. I wanted to replace both front bearings but I wanted to do the worst one first, and come to find out it's the passenger one that was the worst hahaha oh well I have to do both front back wheel bearings now then it'll be good.
joe vazquez hey question... I put new lower control arm, new struts all the way round, new sway links, new outer tie rods, I’m hearing noice whenever I go over any small bumps like a pluh pluh I thought it was the strut, but I think it could be the inner tie rod (I thought that it shouldn’t have any play in it when I replaced the outer, like it moved side to side/up/down easily...) or I dono if it is the cv joint...???? There’s only so many things left to replace lol...
@@Chris58369 Christopher Catherman ball joints, tie rods and CV Axel's can cause that. CV Axel's sound more like grinding bones when going out, so it's a little different than a clunk. Tell by how loose the tie rods are on this vehicle, they're pretty much shot.
What is the torque on a axel
I just watched this step by step and took my axel out but when I pulled it out my transmission fluid cam out all over the garage floor. And idk wher to refill it st if I even can put new transmission fluid in myself I don't see the dipstick for the transmission fluid
You have to remove the air intake part that is above the battery to get access to the transmission tube where you can fill it with trans fluid. Make sure if yours is a CVT to use the proper CVT transmission fluid. Also you would need to order an aftermarket dipstick as the calibers don't come with one, they just have a cap. I bought mine off of amazon for $20-30 as I was having a leak that seemed to be coming from the axle seal and I wanted to make sure the trans fluid level wasn't running low.
@@derrickstewart7197 I didn't have to remove the air intake part to refill my transmission fluid mine actually sticks up higher next to the battery I just removed the cap that says do not remove cap dealership remove only or something along that line but I just put a little less then a quart back in my transmission cause when I took out the driver side axel the fluid came out all over and it looked to be about a quart or less that spilled out and yes I got the exact fluid it needed so my transmission wouldn't mess up putting the wrong stuff in. Mine didn't leak or anything after putting in new axel. No slip in tranny or any issues what so ever with it. I didn't buy any fluid when getting the axel cause the video I watched had no fluid come out after they took the axel out but I think the drained the transmission fluid before taking the axell out idk but I had the auto part store deliver me transmission fluid cause the guy there also said the fluid would come out once I took out the axel witch was a lie so they deliverd me the fluid for free just paid for the fluid itself.
hello, I am looking how to check and replace transmission fluid after doing this on the drivers side. any ideas?
Always catch fluid , then replace what was lost. Otherwise you have to buy a dipstick and a OBD2 scan tool.It is all based on Fluid Temp for all CVT Transmissions.Best to drain entire fluid into clean bucket then sitting both the used fluid and the new fluid side by side for a given time.Then mark what is in used bucket at certain temp, then fill up bucket with fresh fluid to match where you marked the old fluid level. Best way when you dont have scan tool or dipstick. CVT Fluid has to be just right, that's why they do not want just anyone checking/changing it.That is why you have no Transmission Dip sticks any more! If you got fluid leaks to start with you ca not use replace what comes out, you will have to buy a dipstick setup ands a scan tool for temperature readings to ensure fluid level is exactly where it should be for a given temperature, no way around it then..
try duck that just sucks!!! Another thing we can’t fix on a vehicle the stealership wants $$$$$$ such bs!!!!
But is it ATF+4 fluid or CVT Transmission fluid for manual vehicles? Mine has a sticker for ATF+4 but I just want to be sure. Don’t want to ruin my engine. Thanks
I HAVE ENGINE COOLANT LEAKING FROM MY AXLE RIGHT WHERE GOES IN ON DRIVER SIDE.IS THAT NORMAL DURING SEAL FAILURE
Cashandra Blash
Axel grease looks similar to dirty coolant after a CV boot failure. Could this be the case?
so it looks like pulling the passenger side axle doesn't cause you to lose any trans fluid judging by this video. Am I correct? I really don't want to have to play the guessing game on if the trans fluid level is correct or not if I can avoid it.
Pulling the passenger side axel didn’t release any fluid for me. Doing the driver side did make a mess. Best of luck!
What's that black thing in the middle of the old cv axle?
"probably" a universal joint- allows both half axles to move independently as each (front) wheel/tire adjusts to roadway.
Van axle
34 mm for axle nut?
32mm nut
The transmission side of it is stuck and it won't come out helppp
Did you get it out?
@@snj4975 yeaaaah man like 2 weeks ago
Bad procedure starting off. I pray No one follows this. I must apologize but the struts are Never to be loosened nor disconnected from the knuckle. By doing so you will have disturbed the wheels alignment! And guess what, once everything is back on, you'll need to ride down to an alignment shop and pay. The correct method is to Loosen Cvjoint nut to the end but do not remove, then Remove: wheel, brake caliper (hang caliper upto strut spring with hanger wire or something suitable). Disconnect tierod, turn knuckle all the way to left if doing left side, now tap the Cvjoint shaft/nut to break it loose from bearing, remove nut, now firmly force/push Cvjoint out from bearing. The rest you already know.