Great video! I see below that you said the wall mount has held up well. I've been skeptical of that bracket and was thinking about having one fabricated out of a little heavier material. I reinforced the interior of that same wall to support a heavier load. Good to hear this one has held up, it makes me feel a lot better about the mount in general.
That was a great video you did. 👍 Thank you for the details on it. Just a quick question. For vacuuming the system, I'm using my hoses that I use to charge my car's AC. So did you just connect the "blue/low" vacuuming hose (the LOW one you also use to charge the system) & u didn't connect the "red" hose (high) anywhere? It was just 1 hose to vacuum/suck out the air in the line? There was no charging/ adding freon to it cause the compressor has enough to throw it out the line once you open the valve? Sorry for my ignorance, I'm just used to charging car's AC system in which you do have take out the old freon and put new one. So, how did it vacuum it since you had the lower line closed and had to open it after vacuuming it? Is it opened inside to let it vacuum it then it opens up a port inside that line when u open it with the hex key? Is that what it is? Again, sorry for my ignorance. Obviously, I'm going to follow your instructions, just wanting to understand the system itself also. Also, u mentioned you were going to add a breaker box? So is it required? Or can it just be connected to the regular 110v outlet you have on one of your walls? I bought that one 110v and not the 220v. I'm just thinking of bringing that outlet to the outside to connect that mini split.
So the outside unit has refrigerant in it and the valves are holding it back. You are pulling a vacuum on the lineset and the indoor unit. You only need one hose because the lineset and indoor units are all one circuit. If you were to disconnect the lineset from just the out door unit you would be able to blow air through the small line and it would come out the bigger line. Make sense? The 110v unit can run off an outlet but it pulls a good bit of power so if you happen to have anything else on another outlet on the same circuit you are putting alot on that one circuit. It's best to have a designated breaker for it. Hope that helps.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily ok. Yea I heard some people see some of that power glitch the lights or "drown" a little when they turn on the AC. Thank you for the clarification, appreciate it! 👍
I have been pleased with it. I didn't have high expectations for a "cheaper" ebay unit. But it has definitely outperformed my expectations. I would definitely buy one again.
First, thanks for the video. I'm a HVAC mechanic and am well aware of the instillation process. However, I'm about to mount one on a trailer for the first time. I know these trailers don't use thick metal or wood on the insides of these things. I'm aware the indoor air handler (head) is fairly lightweight. However, I'm a bit skeptical on what type of screws to use (or anchors) to assure myself that the indoor mounting bracket will fasten to the existing wall without being pulled out over time with travel. Did you install anything particular on the wall you mounted your air handler on to allow a better bite for your screws? If not, what are your thoughts? Thanks in advance.
The plywood in my trailer is 3/4 in so I just screwed the bracket directly to.the plywood with a good 3/4 " wood screw. 8 in total I believe. I've put hundreds of miles on the trailer and it's held well. If you have thinner plywood than that I would maybe get self tappers and find the metal stud behind the plywood and run a couple screws into those studs.
Man.. so glad I found this video! I purchased one of these Traiden Air 18K BTU units and found out it requires 220v direct to the inside unit. I have not opened the box yet but will be installing an outside disconnect with 220 this weekend and was hoping you could tell me if they supplied a long enough power cord for the inside unit to reach a disconnect on the outside or if I need to purchase extra 10/2 wiring for that. I cannot find ANY information on these units and dont want to open the box until my AC guy comes to install it since I do not have a vacuum pump. Thanks for any assistance you can provide!
This one works way way better! The portable worked for my smaller trailer, but when I moved up to that bigger black trailer it didn't cut it at all. This thing will keep it 74 ish in the heat of summer just fine. Depending on how in and out we are that is. This also has heat so definitely a benefit over the portable unit in the winter as well.
So honestly to remove a potential leak point I would just buy a longer line set. If not then just buy a lineset on Amazon but you will need both sizes. There will be the big line and the little line. 7/16 is kind of an odd size but you can find them. Probably going to be a 7/16 and 1/4". Maybe? Can you send me a picture of your lineset?
How did to bracket hold up going down the road? I'm doing something similar and am looking for some tips on how to make that more ridged so that the wall doesn't flex with the compressor sitting there.
The plywood on the inside of my trailer is 3/4" so I through bolted the bracket into the plywood. It has been holding up very well for a few years now.
Thank you for the videos. Crazy question. just curious how you did your ceiling in your cargo trailer. It looks like ceiling tiles if so, how does that work?
Here is the link for some. You can find them else where but this will give you the idea: www.etrailer.com/E-Track/etrailer/e46HR.html?feed=npn&Google%20%7C%20Shop%20-%20E-Track&adgroupid=81219807290&campaignid=1593782368&creative=404001588887&device=c&devicemodel=&feeditemid=&keyword=&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=9011150&matchtype=&network=g&placement=&position=&gclid=CjwKCAjwzJmlBhBBEiwAEJyLuz9M83drD4-0-2JhG0J0dk5NxSh8QTXfc2Iy2wkJRM_YTahFHRo5KxoCx8UQAvD_BwE
What about driving down the road in wet raining or snowing conditions? Do you put a cover over the outside unit to protect it from the debris kicked up by the truck?
How is the vibration sound inside thr trailer. I installed mine and I think i need some shock absorbers or something because it vibrates inside really bad. It's quiet outside but I think with the unit being mounted to the trailer itself makes it loud.
I really don’t understand how that it helped to take the cover off , I have installed several and it’s simply to just hang the air handler on the bracket, and I think the risk of damaging the air handler just went through the roof and for no gain
I've done it both ways. For me it was always easier to run the wires and drain line with the cover off. This one was harder to take the cover off than expected. Diakin gree and Mitsubishi covers pop right off with zero trouble.
Just curious with some road use if the bracket mounting solution held up ok. I've seen units mounted to the tow a-frame directly, but that normally only works for flat-front trailers. I like your approach of mounting to the side of a v-front... but just wondering if it holds up over time. thx!
I haven't had any issues yet. I check it every once in a while, and it's held up well. I hit a bad pothole one time that had me worried, but it didn't phase it.
What happens if you run it and you are not parked flat? And does the wind from towing have any affect on the fan motor while towing. Unit not running of course.
I don't know. Lol never thought about it. I would assume the fan just wouldn't run because the condenser pressure would stay low because of the airflow. My only concern would be of the fan motor is trying to run and the fan is spinning faster than what it's calling for, will it mess the windings up? Just a thought. It's a DC motor so maybe not.
My manual says you can exhaust the air either with a vacuum or they give instructions on how to exhaust the air just with the valves and no vaccuum or gauges. Would that be okay since its in the manual and i dont have a vacuum?
I have been doing hvac work for 17 years. I have known people to do that and not have issues, but I don't trust it. I would definitely consider pulling a vacuum instead but try that at your own risk.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily is that a modification or how it is designed to be wired? Also, due to you being an HVAC professional (meaning I trust your information!) is there any issue with creating a low spot when running the refrigerant lines? Thanks!!
Low spot is not an issue on this scale. On bigger units oil accumulation could be a problem but the lowest spot here is not near enough to create a problem. For the power you just need to have a bigger power wire going from the inside terminals to the outside terminals. Mine was set up that way. I did some YT shorts on the wiring if you want to check those out.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily thank you so much!!! I am thinking of going with a tongue mounted generator rack that sits about 29” from the tongue for the outside unit and mounting the inside unit about where you have yours. Just didn’t want to cause any issues!
Can you show more of the wiring ,i bought the same one ,mine didnt come pre-wired ,only wiring coming from the indoor unit was the gray cable with the brown ,blue ,y/g wire
Send me the picture of the inside unit and the outside unit wiring terminals and I will draw you a wiring diagram. If you can't post here send them to empoweringdiy@gmail.com
On the wiring, you mentioned circuit breaker and also 30amp travel trailer connection. Since you have it plugged in to an extension cord for testing, presume it’s pulling no more than 15-20 amps at 110v?
I’m a little confused. You pulled a vacuum on the system but you only had the one valve open and then after the vacuum you opened the other valve and it was charged. Where did the refrigerant come from. I saw no Freon tank
It is in the condenser coil. The valves I opened had refrigerant on the other side of it. Does that make sense? I can do a youtube short explaining it better if you need me too?
The air handler should have nitrogen and the outside condenser should have been pre charged with refrigerant. Did you open the valves on the outside unit already?
@@EmpoweringDIYFamilyare the lines supposed to get cold? I thought they were but after vacuum and opening up too then bottom, checking for leaks, (all good) it stilll doesn’t seem to be cooling :(
@EmpoweringDIYFamily ok , I'm debating on doing similar down through floor & back up or out through wall . Leaning floor ... it's easier to fix that plywood vs the metal siding
I had a mobile unit from Sam's Club. It was on wheels and had a duct you could put in a window to exhaust the condenser air. I liked it for the smaller trailer. It was to small for the new trailer and didn't have heat.
You should have moved the unit to the end of the bracket it’s supposed to have as much space behind it to plow air out and away from the trailer wall and the unit
I did think about that, but multiple factors had me mount it that way. First I needed it as far away from the truck as possible during transport. Second, that's a pull fan. It's pulling through the coil which has a big surface area with plenty of airflow coming through the back of the unit. (I actually was more worried about heat soak from the black panel than I was worried about airflow.) All that to ne said I've been running it fully loaded with no issue. If it was a push fan I may have been worried about increasing static pressure being too close to the wall, but how it is now it works great.
I used grade 8 bolts through the frame. The bracket has held up well. The wall bracket seems flimsy when separated, but once you bolt it to the wall and the unit it's solid.
For the refrigerant line? You can order them on Amazon. Or a local store like United Refirigeration, Epting Supply, Baker Dist, or any hvac supply store.
Send me a picture of the inside unit terminals and the outside unit terminals and I can draw you a wiring diagram. Email it to tonyamitch1343@gmail.com
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily I emailed you, under machr85. Basically I want to see how the thick wires are connected but I slowed down your video and you mentioned that 1,2,3,4 connect them the same order on the inside unit, easy! I will be trying this tomorrow morning. And how didn't you wire the plug that you had to put on the power cord for indoor unit? Like which is your neutral and which is your load? Also I notice you said this unit is 110? I don't see you hooking up power other than the wires that go to the indoor unit into a plug to a 110 outlet, it was my understanding these need 220v
Great video! I see below that you said the wall mount has held up well. I've been skeptical of that bracket and was thinking about having one fabricated out of a little heavier material. I reinforced the interior of that same wall to support a heavier load. Good to hear this one has held up, it makes me feel a lot better about the mount in general.
Thank I'll be doing this soon. I'm glad you did the jack knife, I'm new to driving the trailer, so I'll probably jack knifing a bit haha
I installed one of these for my friend in his tire shop office space. I bought the same traiden ultra 120v it works great.
I’m curious how you setup your breaker box. Basically how are you powering your trailer? Generator? Plugged up to your house? What size wire, etc.?
That makes sense now . Didn’t know it was pre charged with Freon 👍👍👍👍. No I didn’t by one yet. Just started our trailer conversion
That was a great video you did. 👍 Thank you for the details on it. Just a quick question. For vacuuming the system, I'm using my hoses that I use to charge my car's AC. So did you just connect the "blue/low" vacuuming hose (the LOW one you also use to charge the system) & u didn't connect the "red" hose (high) anywhere? It was just 1 hose to vacuum/suck out the air in the line? There was no charging/ adding freon to it cause the compressor has enough to throw it out the line once you open the valve? Sorry for my ignorance, I'm just used to charging car's AC system in which you do have take out the old freon and put new one. So, how did it vacuum it since you had the lower line closed and had to open it after vacuuming it? Is it opened inside to let it vacuum it then it opens up a port inside that line when u open it with the hex key? Is that what it is? Again, sorry for my ignorance. Obviously, I'm going to follow your instructions, just wanting to understand the system itself also. Also, u mentioned you were going to add a breaker box? So is it required? Or can it just be connected to the regular 110v outlet you have on one of your walls? I bought that one 110v and not the 220v. I'm just thinking of bringing that outlet to the outside to connect that mini split.
So the outside unit has refrigerant in it and the valves are holding it back. You are pulling a vacuum on the lineset and the indoor unit. You only need one hose because the lineset and indoor units are all one circuit. If you were to disconnect the lineset from just the out door unit you would be able to blow air through the small line and it would come out the bigger line. Make sense?
The 110v unit can run off an outlet but it pulls a good bit of power so if you happen to have anything else on another outlet on the same circuit you are putting alot on that one circuit. It's best to have a designated breaker for it.
Hope that helps.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily ok. Yea I heard some people see some of that power glitch the lights or "drown" a little when they turn on the AC. Thank you for the clarification, appreciate it! 👍
Hello very nice setup. Question can the A/C run while pulling the trailer when driving. We want to use it to put our dogs in.
If you have the generator mounted somewhere safe it should. The generator would need to be in the back of the truck or something.
Thank you for your speedy response, sir. What size generator would you recommend? I have a Dodge Rm 1500 hemi.
I run my entire trailer with a 3500watt generator
So you would recommend this Brand ?? There is sooooooo many to chose from and they all say they are the best !
I have been pleased with it. I didn't have high expectations for a "cheaper" ebay unit. But it has definitely outperformed my expectations. I would definitely buy one again.
First, thanks for the video. I'm a HVAC mechanic and am well aware of the instillation process. However, I'm about to mount one on a trailer for the first time. I know these trailers don't use thick metal or wood on the insides of these things. I'm aware the indoor air handler (head) is fairly lightweight. However, I'm a bit skeptical on what type of screws to use (or anchors) to assure myself that the indoor mounting bracket will fasten to the existing wall without being pulled out over time with travel. Did you install anything particular on the wall you mounted your air handler on to allow a better bite for your screws? If not, what are your thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
The plywood in my trailer is 3/4 in so I just screwed the bracket directly to.the plywood with a good 3/4 " wood screw. 8 in total I believe. I've put hundreds of miles on the trailer and it's held well. If you have thinner plywood than that I would maybe get self tappers and find the metal stud behind the plywood and run a couple screws into those studs.
Man.. so glad I found this video! I purchased one of these Traiden Air 18K BTU units and found out it requires 220v direct to the inside unit. I have not opened the box yet but will be installing an outside disconnect with 220 this weekend and was hoping you could tell me if they supplied a long enough power cord for the inside unit to reach a disconnect on the outside or if I need to purchase extra 10/2 wiring for that. I cannot find ANY information on these units and dont want to open the box until my AC guy comes to install it since I do not have a vacuum pump. Thanks for any assistance you can provide!
Glad my video helped out. I hope the install goes good for you.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily do you remember if the power cord came with it? And if so about how long it was? Thanks!
The power cord was hanging out of the inside unit about 6 ft.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily thank you!
Did you figure out how to change it to Fahrenheit?
How much better does this work compared to the portable unit you had before? Did the portable unit cool, but this is just quicker/quieter/etc?
This one works way way better! The portable worked for my smaller trailer, but when I moved up to that bigger black trailer it didn't cut it at all. This thing will keep it 74 ish in the heat of summer just fine. Depending on how in and out we are that is. This also has heat so definitely a benefit over the portable unit in the winter as well.
Loved the video! Very helpful for an install I having coming up. Curious tho, any idea where I can find a 7/16 line extension??
What do you mean a line extension?
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily The copper tubing that comes with it isn’t long enough. So I have to get a longer one that’s 25 ft. But it has to be 7/16.
So honestly to remove a potential leak point I would just buy a longer line set. If not then just buy a lineset on Amazon but you will need both sizes. There will be the big line and the little line. 7/16 is kind of an odd size but you can find them. Probably going to be a 7/16 and 1/4". Maybe? Can you send me a picture of your lineset?
To finish my above thought. LOL if you need to buy and extend the lineset you will need to buy couplings and braze them in with silver solder.
How did to bracket hold up going down the road? I'm doing something similar and am looking for some tips on how to make that more ridged so that the wall doesn't flex with the compressor sitting there.
The plywood on the inside of my trailer is 3/4" so I through bolted the bracket into the plywood. It has been holding up very well for a few years now.
Great vid. Where did you get the brackets
Amazon: Outdoor Wall Mounting Bracket for... www.amazon.com/dp/B074TC8DFR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
is the AC still working well deciding if i want to get for my trailer
Works like a champ.
Thank you for the videos. Crazy question. just curious how you did your ceiling in your cargo trailer. It looks like ceiling tiles if so, how does that work?
It's the pink insulation foam sheets from lowes. It is just painted with the floor paint and speckles. And stuck up between the ceiling rails.
Can you provide details on those e track desk brackets? Where can I get some?
Here is the link for some. You can find them else where but this will give you the idea: www.etrailer.com/E-Track/etrailer/e46HR.html?feed=npn&Google%20%7C%20Shop%20-%20E-Track&adgroupid=81219807290&campaignid=1593782368&creative=404001588887&device=c&devicemodel=&feeditemid=&keyword=&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=9011150&matchtype=&network=g&placement=&position=&gclid=CjwKCAjwzJmlBhBBEiwAEJyLuz9M83drD4-0-2JhG0J0dk5NxSh8QTXfc2Iy2wkJRM_YTahFHRo5KxoCx8UQAvD_BwE
👍 ..what's the measurements on the outside unit ? Wanted to mount mine between the tongue frame ,thanks
12" deep, 28" wide, and 21" tall.
What about driving down the road in wet raining or snowing conditions? Do you put a cover over the outside unit to protect it from the debris kicked up by the truck?
I don't. I haven't had any issues with that. Water won't hurt it. I've never had debri hit it. Knock on wood.
How is the vibration sound inside thr trailer. I installed mine and I think i need some shock absorbers or something because it vibrates inside really bad. It's quiet outside but I think with the unit being mounted to the trailer itself makes it loud.
I used rubber isolators under the until where the bolts go. It doesn't vibrate at all inside.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily thank-you I have some absorbers ordered now
You're welcome. I'm interested now. Let me know if it helps.
I really don’t understand how that it helped to take the cover off , I have installed several and it’s simply to just hang the air handler on the bracket, and I think the risk of damaging the air handler just went through the roof and for no gain
I've done it both ways. For me it was always easier to run the wires and drain line with the cover off. This one was harder to take the cover off than expected. Diakin gree and Mitsubishi covers pop right off with zero trouble.
Just curious with some road use if the bracket mounting solution held up ok. I've seen units mounted to the tow a-frame directly, but that normally only works for flat-front trailers. I like your approach of mounting to the side of a v-front... but just wondering if it holds up over time. thx!
I haven't had any issues yet. I check it every once in a while, and it's held up well. I hit a bad pothole one time that had me worried, but it didn't phase it.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily thanks that’s super helpful. I guess I’ll do it exactly the same way
You're welcome!
Thanks for the video
My pleasure. Hope it helped. Any questions let me know.
One follow up question. Can you please share the dimensions of the outdoor unit?
What happens if you run it and you are not parked flat?
And does the wind from towing have any affect on the fan motor while towing. Unit not running of course.
I don't know. Lol never thought about it. I would assume the fan just wouldn't run because the condenser pressure would stay low because of the airflow. My only concern would be of the fan motor is trying to run and the fan is spinning faster than what it's calling for, will it mess the windings up? Just a thought. It's a DC motor so maybe not.
Also I haven't had any issue with it spinning while the unit is off.
My manual says you can exhaust the air either with a vacuum or they give instructions on how to exhaust the air just with the valves and no vaccuum or gauges. Would that be okay since its in the manual and i dont have a vacuum?
I have been doing hvac work for 17 years. I have known people to do that and not have issues, but I don't trust it. I would definitely consider pulling a vacuum instead but try that at your own risk.
Does the power come from the inside or outside unit?
I have the power going to the inside unit. Then from there feeding the outside unit.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily is that a modification or how it is designed to be wired? Also, due to you being an HVAC professional (meaning I trust your information!) is there any issue with creating a low spot when running the refrigerant lines? Thanks!!
Low spot is not an issue on this scale. On bigger units oil accumulation could be a problem but the lowest spot here is not near enough to create a problem.
For the power you just need to have a bigger power wire going from the inside terminals to the outside terminals. Mine was set up that way. I did some YT shorts on the wiring if you want to check those out.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily thank you so much!!! I am thinking of going with a tongue mounted generator rack that sits about 29” from the tongue for the outside unit and mounting the inside unit about where you have yours. Just didn’t want to cause any issues!
Good luck! Hope it all works out well
Can you show more of the wiring ,i bought the same one ,mine didnt come pre-wired ,only wiring coming from the indoor unit was the gray cable with the brown ,blue ,y/g wire
Send me the picture of the inside unit and the outside unit wiring terminals and I will draw you a wiring diagram. If you can't post here send them to empoweringdiy@gmail.com
Sent them through email
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily hey bud I’m stumped on the mini split install. Could I pick your brain? Is it cool to email you?
I just seen your email. I'll respond to it as soon as I can!.
On the wiring, you mentioned circuit breaker and also 30amp travel trailer connection. Since you have it plugged in to an extension cord for testing, presume it’s pulling no more than 15-20 amps at 110v?
I’m a little confused. You pulled a vacuum on the system but you only had the one valve open and then after the vacuum you opened the other valve and it was charged. Where did the refrigerant come from. I saw no Freon tank
It is in the condenser coil. The valves I opened had refrigerant on the other side of it. Does that make sense? I can do a youtube short explaining it better if you need me too?
My outside unit keeps icing over but it does go into defrost mode on its own
They will freeze over some. As long as the defrost mode is clearing it away during that cycle. If it's not, then the unit is probably low on charge
The unit had nitrogen in it when you got it. Was it charged with Freon or where did the Freon come from
The air handler should have nitrogen and the outside condenser should have been pre charged with refrigerant. Did you open the valves on the outside unit already?
@@EmpoweringDIYFamilyare the lines supposed to get cold? I thought they were but after vacuum and opening up too then bottom, checking for leaks, (all good) it stilll doesn’t seem to be cooling :(
Any issues with line set running down below compressor, through trailer floor , then back up to compressor creating an oil trap?
Not at all. The Air handler is still above the condenser so the line set going down then up just gives it a oil trap.
@EmpoweringDIYFamily ok , I'm debating on doing similar down through floor & back up or out through wall .
Leaning floor ... it's easier to fix that plywood vs the metal siding
Where can I find the adapter to connect from min 35:45? Please, thanks
Here's a link for you to check out: amzn.to/3Qv0mPg
Have you traveled with it running?
Not yet. I haven't had that need yet. I usually just turn it on as soon as I get where we're going and it cools down really fast.
What unit did you have in your smaller trailer? Did you like it?
I had a mobile unit from Sam's Club. It was on wheels and had a duct you could put in a window to exhaust the condenser air. I liked it for the smaller trailer. It was to small for the new trailer and didn't have heat.
You should have moved the unit to the end of the bracket it’s supposed to have as much space behind it to plow air out and away from the trailer wall and the unit
I did think about that, but multiple factors had me mount it that way. First I needed it as far away from the truck as possible during transport. Second, that's a pull fan. It's pulling through the coil which has a big surface area with plenty of airflow coming through the back of the unit. (I actually was more worried about heat soak from the black panel than I was worried about airflow.) All that to ne said I've been running it fully loaded with no issue. If it was a push fan I may have been worried about increasing static pressure being too close to the wall, but how it is now it works great.
How the unit doing now that you have some time using it ?
Runs perfect! I had it on heat the other day while I was in the trailer rebuilding a car for the next race
Is it still running?
Like a champ.
Good job. Thank you.
You're welcome. Thank you
Year & half later still happy?
Very Happy. Used it for heat this morning. It's definitely been a game changer.
How did you bolt it is the 1 in rods on trailer are filmsy and all the vibration doesn't loosen anything??
I used grade 8 bolts through the frame. The bracket has held up well. The wall bracket seems flimsy when separated, but once you bolt it to the wall and the unit it's solid.
Is the wall the standard 3/8 plywood
@@valentinsalas8300 I've seen him say in other comment that he has 3/4" plywood
Where did you get the adapter from?
For the refrigerant line? You can order them on Amazon. Or a local store like United Refirigeration, Epting Supply, Baker Dist, or any hvac supply store.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily are you in the Permian area? You look like the guy that sold me one of these Traiden Mini Splits lol
@@bradenwelch1967 nope not me! Lol I don't sell them, and don't know where that is. Lol
How do you connect it to the app ?
Btw to change to Fahrenheit press Ta/ts & display at the same tome
Mine didn't have that capability. The new one right after I ordered mine has the app feature. I'm jealous. 😆
I had found it after I ended the video in the manual. Thank you though.
Hi, I need urgent help seeing how did you wire the indoor unit power cord and that black wire with multiple cables inside
Send me a picture of the inside unit terminals and the outside unit terminals and I can draw you a wiring diagram. Email it to tonyamitch1343@gmail.com
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily I emailed you, under machr85. Basically I want to see how the thick wires are connected but I slowed down your video and you mentioned that 1,2,3,4 connect them the same order on the inside unit, easy! I will be trying this tomorrow morning. And how didn't you wire the plug that you had to put on the power cord for indoor unit? Like which is your neutral and which is your load? Also I notice you said this unit is 110? I don't see you hooking up power other than the wires that go to the indoor unit into a plug to a 110 outlet, it was my understanding these need 220v
Some units are 110 and others 220. It depends on what system you have. I'll look for your email.