Airstream Front End Separation Awning Adjustment, Corrosion Control & BRN Display!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ต.ค. 2024
- About this video:
Join Brad on another exciting Airstream maintenance journey, where he shares his expertise in keeping his cherished camper in pristine condition.
In this comprehensive guide, Brad tackles various tasks, including adjusting the awning for optimal functionality, addressing a serious concern for the with the on-demand water heater, and taking proactive measures to combat filiform corrosion.
Additionally, Brad demonstrates how to replace a rivet in the front locker and addresses the significance of displaying their Big Red Number (BRN) and why it's essential for Airstream enthusiasts. Could the rivet replacement be a sign of front-end separation?
Watch as Brad provides insightful solutions and expert advice to ensure the integrity and longevity of his Airstream. If you're an Airstream owner or enthusiast seeking invaluable tips and tricks, this video is a must-watch.
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Brad,
Another great video. We visited Vinnie’s “Tallahassee Team” 6-weeks ago. Briston did a fabulous job with the ceramic coating of our 2019 GT. Briston also gave some helpful hints on types of wash to use now that our trailer has ceramic coating.
Thanks for the updates and insight. Im excited to get up there!
Thank you! I am so glad you put out how to adust alignment of the awning, I was just on my roof and notice mine has slid in the track. I wasn’t sure what I was going to do to adjust it back into place. Woo! I will climb up there this week and handle it. ~Shanna
So thankful that you found this helpful. Have a great day!
Grate tips I have a 2023 FBTH 25’ I’m relived about hearing about the brace that I should have and I’ll be getting mine out of storage on Monday and camping near Toledo and testing the no freezing water heater thank you for the tips and tricks 👍
Thanks for watching and your feedback! Have a great day and happy adventures.
Great video on a variety of topics. Filiform corrosion is an interesting topic. Personally, I have never been able to make it look "better" once it has started. I just leave it knowing what your expert and my research has concluded. Ceramic coating has its advantages but I totally agree with you - will it prevent corrosion unless you remove all the lights, beltline, etc.? I guess time will tell...
I'll let you know for sure in a few weeks! Thanks for watching. Love you guys and all that you do for this community.
Great job!
Thank you for your feedback.
Nice video. Couldn’t you have replaced that rivet with a buck rivet? I am sure Blair would have been happy to squeeze into the compartment to brace the rivet from the back. 😆 We are quite happy with with the ceramic coating that Master Applied Coatings did for us in Tallahassee. I will be curious to get your take on the work they do. A year after we had the coating applied we took a serious stone hit in the front end cap that went down to bare aluminum. I was slow to call Master Applied Coatings and got a little filiform at that spot. I made an appointment with Master Applied Coatings and they were able to recoat just that spot. I now carry some Corrosion X and clear nail polish just in case it happens again.
She would have been very happy to do so but it would have required removing all the bedroom furniture again and then removing the interior skin right there to do it. One rivet is not worth all that.
Im excited to get up there in a few weeks and chat with them about all the tings they see and what options they recommend for a variety of road woes.
Thanks for confirming the popped rivet probably has little to do with weight distribution bars!
So many factors at play with that. We just never know.
Thank you Brad for anothe informative video ! Didn't know about brace was install in newer Airstreams? would you know what year they started that?
Im not sure what year they started this. Ive tried to search back through parts manuals but cant tell.
Brad great video as always. We have the exact same make, model and year as you. Glad to hear for FES the braces are already installed. After KYD’s video we looked at our rig and noticed four rivets missing, two on the bottom left and two on the bottom right corners where you replaced one rivet on the front storage. We have an appointment at the Mother Ship on August to address this and other warranty issues. Question should I replace the rivets myself prior to our visit as we have a couple trips scheduled?
I would replace them before I drive. It's easy enough to replace them. Think of it like a zipper; once it starts, it's easier to keep going.
That’s a good point thanks for the tip.
Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Did you have to go back to the factory to get the front end brace kit, or was that installed during the original build? I have a 2023 International FBT. I haven't noticed anything in the front compartment. Should it be obvious? Thanks for another great video!
No, they were installed at the factory. You can’t see them because they’re between the interior and exterior skin. Thanks for watching and your feedback.
Would you recommend getting Vinny’s ceramic treatment on a new unit? With or without getting the factory treatment?
The factory only has a standard clearcoat. Many dealerships offer a ceramic wax coating after it arrives. (there may be dealerships doing something that I am not aware of also!). Vinnie's can do it on any age trailer. Obviously, the newer the trailer, the better it will look.
You mentioned that you sometimes heat with the heat pump…last year we were in cold weather in Wyoming and used the heat pump at a full hookup park. I noticed a huge amount of water pouring out of the passenger side front of our FC 25. I took a video and showed it to our nearest Airstream dealer in Florida, and I sent it to the factory. Dealer said it was normal. Factory said I should not use the heat pump to heat the Airstream. Factory said the HP was only to “take the chill” out of the trailer, but that I should use the propane heater. Is that your understanding of the HP function?
Hello and thanks for watching and your question. The heat pump will only work properly at temperatures above 45 degrees F. Below that temp, you need to use your furnace. We also have a Dyson fan/heater/HEPA filter that we heat with depending on the temps. The water coming out is most likely condensation from the roof unit. There are drain tubes that drain in the fender on the road side but if they are clogged or your trailer is not quite level, they may not drain properly and you will see water running down the side right at the front awning rod and dripping on the ground. Hope this helps.
I don’t use the HP below 45 degrees, but even above 45 the factory person I communicated with said HP is not for heating. It is just to “take the chill off.” I had used it as a heat source when we had electric hookups, but they said I shouldn’t. I now run the HP for no more than 15 minutes.
I use the heat pump when it's practical, eg, I have power and it's above freezing. Be aware that the A/C is running backwards (oversimplified) and so condensation does not drip out of the drain tubes like with A/C. The condensation runs on to the roof and depending which side is low it drips off there. I usually have a puddle on the ground in one corner. That's normal. My thermostat, the CCC-2 has a program that at a certain temp switches the furnace on. 35-40ish? Its only happened once for me, but I'm in the south.
Interesting! Im curious to know why this was said. The manual states "The heat pump is designed to knock the chill off your trailer. It functions when outside temperature is 45oF or greater by removing heat from the outside air. Below 45oF it will not provide heat." Maybe they are only allowed to say what the manual says. But it also doesn't say anything about duration.
Ive now lived for 12 years in an RV. The last three had heat pumps and I lived in Utah/Wyoming/Colorado/Montana/Idaho much of the time we were in those models. I used the heat pump in the winter daily along with my Dyson heater inside similarly with the AC in the summer time. . I have never had an issue with them. I just change the mode when its below 45 (we've even noticed it works pretty well until it gets to about 40.
I concur! This is exactly as I have used it as stated in my previous reply. Ive had it switch to furnace a few times when I didnt realize the temps had dropped so much.
Using silicone is NOT recommended to seal an Olympic rivet on an Airstream. They are many other recommended sealants - Tempro, Acryl-R, Captain Tolley's, Parbond, etc. Removing the washer/gasket is recommended as you mentioned (short lifespan). Enjoy your videos!
Thanks for the note and info. Ive used all of those on various applications depending on the location and where Im sealing.
Call me old fashioned but in my opinion the tankless water heater and power awning are nothing but problems. The more technology = the more to break down. That rivet likely will pop out again if you have front end separation.
We love the current water heater and have had the tanked variant in the past. We are also on our second Airstream with the powered awning and have had zero issues with either one. The main problem people have with their powered awning is failing to lubricate it properly. The water heater has worked great except for that one time and we have had it in freezing temperatures for many months.