It might seem like a basic task that didn't need a video, but many of us were never taught this stuff growing up and need to start somewhere. Thanks for making it.
@@SpectreSoundStudios Yeah when I started my tool and DIY home repair channel and showed my first video to my friend his reaction was: "Yeah but growing up you had your dad to teach you that stuff."
I think this video shows a lot of truth, when doing some of this DIY stuff. You run into unforeseen problems and you have to problem solve through them. You don’t give up and you don’t get overwhelmed. You say it sucks, and you move on. Glen, I really appreciate the honesty how simple things all of a sudden get difficult.
Don't forget to label your cabs after you start swapping speakers! Some Gaffer tape on the back does nicely. I note which speakers are in there (with their individual watts and ohms), the overall watts for the cab, the ohm rating for the cab, and how the cab is wired (series or parallel or series/parallel, etc..). LIFE SAVER later when you're plugging them into to new or different things.
Too much work. I prefer the “set it and forget it” method so later I wind up having electrical issues and damaging components. It’s a lot more chaotic and fun
@@NubsWithGuns Actually, I will mark a speaker for location within the cab IF it’s the speaker I’ve chosen as the one to mic. Not sure that means anything but at least it keeps everything consistent once I’ve marked the grill cloth for mic placement lol
A follow up video would be great. I think a lot of folks would benefit from seeing how series and parallel wiring can help them match impedences between their cab and their head.
I live in an apartment so I'm stuck with amp sims, so I downloaded the vintage 30 IRs and that's been a lot of fun! Thank you for making it publicly available.
I love the fact that you didn't edit out all of the bs that comes along with doing this sort of DIY work, there's always something that goes wrong or some unforeseen obstacle. Thumbs up to sharing what real life is like
One thing I've run into with swapping speakers is making sure the mount screws are evenly torqued. If you put them in uneven, you can warp the speaker basket and cause odd sounds.
The fact we can swap out speakers and get a MASSIVE difference in tone for roughly the same price as new guitar pickups (in some cases, these actually cost more and aren't as significant to our final tone in comparison) is incredible. But at the same time so telling as to how our brains work as guitar players lmao
Little tip for when you're de-soldering: use solder wick. it's a strand of braided copper wire that absorb solder when heated and in contact with said solder. it avoids spillages and remove a lot of solder. it's a consumable though so you might need 2 or 3 around just to have some margin. Also use new solder each time you make a new joint since the wire contain flux which make soldering a lot easier.
This video really represents the dilemma of many DIY tasks. "This should only take a few minutes" often quickly evolves into an hours long odyssey. All part of the fun!
2:40 grab one of those magnetic trays from the auto shop! They stick to anything you have metal, and the screws stick to it! been using them for years fixing my guitar! Also on your drill, make sure you turn the torque down so it doesnt strip screws as easily! Keep it up Glenn!
Just changed out my Marshall cabinet 4x12 cheap MG series G12-412MGs to 2 Celestion Greenbacks and 2 EVH Celestion. The cabinet is run with EVH 5150 6l6 50W head unit. I bought the speakers from Thoman after hearing you last video on speakers and tone. The tone is the tone I have been searching for and now my setup is complete. Thanks for all the good advice on tone and speakers.
I think a dedicated video regarding different ohms (2,4,8,16) is better given the power differences and requirements. PAs, guitar and bass amps often have different power requirements, particularly with moving that to a speaker that might only move with bass, or others (like cabinets with horns). Fires can happen if not set right. It is definitely an important lesson.
I liked this video Glenn. I’ve swapped many speakers out in my day and of this entire video, and dealing with my own personal electronic projects from time to time, I was surprised to learn that you could rotate that style of wire stripper! I’ve always just clamped and yanked. Over the years I’ve opted for the squeeze and strip style tool. Also, when it comes to soldering, if one can handle this task then there’s no reason they can’t work on their own guitars too! My point is that don’t forget to protect your guitars finish the same way that you protected the speakers cone. Nothing says “fuuuuuuuuuck” like solder spatter all over you shiny finish.
Glenn, I really think you nailed it with this video and a follow up about wiring diagrams and how to understand them would be excellent. However, in my day job as an HVAC tech I have found that using power tools can lead to bigger issues down the road. Especially if you strip a screw head or out right snap the screw itself. My college instructor has said that all you have to do is “snug it up”. Another good tip is to acquire magnetic screw drivers, nut drivers, or socket wrenches to really speed up the process. I am really enjoying the content you are putting out lately and watch every week. Keep up the great work you’ve been doing, and f you Glenn! James from Minnesota.
VERY long post with tips from a guy whos done literally thousands of these.. good luck everyone hope your install goes well! mostly in order with the video times....great video Glen! --1-- That farty sound is "the bad sound" (the screws on his cab are probably worn out) make sure your screw driver is pointed in the exact same direction as the screw to stop it. production installed screws are always "straight in"....(perpendicular to surface) if the screw head is stripped bad before you start youll get that sound and make things worse....if the screw has been screwed with you gotta find the angle that doesnt make the noise...go slow..it helps. --2-- Some cabs have weird/different wiring from others....take pictures, draw diagrams before disconnecting anything...write the wire colors and symbols.... the terminals will have marks of + or - new speakers might swap which side the + or - is on...so look and mark that info. if white wire is +...put it on the + of the new speaker... swapping the +- WILL put the speaker "out of phase" and change the sound... even if its only a single speaker cab....in a 4x cab you MUST wire it correctly. some cabinets have different wiring for different ohms etc... do not mix different ohm speakers (if you know how to do it properly this info is baby stuff to you so shush lol) --3-- Spade connectors vs solder is a 50yr old argument. Glen is correct. both work fine if you use the proper connectors... solder is cheaper but a little more guaranteed especially in a factory. if it wiggles and is floppy sloppy its bad..... the connectors glen uses are a generic size, not special to that manufacturer. sometimes a VERY slight bend in the spade (male side) or squish of the female side will help them hold more snugly....VERY slight goes a long way! --4-- Swapping speaker brand and model could mean the screw holes dont line up. most cabs mount speakers with wood screws through the speaker holes into the cab. not like this cabinet (using embedded machine screws) if the holes dont line up with the old ones, just turn the speaker so the new holes are about an inch (25mm) away from the old holes..... tracing the old speaker with a marker will help you stay centered..tilt the marker to make the circle bigger, then eyeball or measure to center in the drawn/traced circle.
Glenn......my favorite cab is a Marshall 1960A that I put Vintage 30’s and Greenbacks in an ‘X’ pattern and the mix of the 2 is UNBELIEVABLE!!! Maybe a video about blending different speakers or what speakers compliment each other?? I think many players could benefit from this!
I'd really like to see more freq. response graphs in the future, especially when you get around to making the dv-77 video. I've been wanting to see its freq. response compared to the other speakers popular within the genre. Very useful video as always, Glenn.
Thanks Glen. I'd like to say it's pretty cool to see the unforeseen stuff you ran into such as the bits not fitting, and soldered connections instead of spades. You could have easily edited that out, but chose to use it as a teaching moment than some of us non-professionals probably need to see. Thanks.
Bass speakers. Finally. Something older than my bass strings. . .Speakers made a huge difference in my 90s Fender 4x12. The old Jensens died and the replacements were from Carvin... maybe 20 years ago. It is still my favorite cabinet I own
If you do strip the screws don’t worry. U use a dremel or a jack saw blade and slot the head. This turns it to a flat head so u can get it out, then just replace it with a Phillips after u get it out.
Note: if you're swapping a speaker out of a China/Korea/Indonesian combo amp, where the wires are using spade connectors, you might run into a situation where the existing negative cable post (black) is narrower than the positive (red). This prevents a direct swap with your standard Celestion, where spade posts are the wide variety. Attaching a new connector onto the black wire will be necessary (I solder mine). My understanding is that the mis-matched posts are used on those speakers to prevent the wrong wire being attached in a factory environment, where they're connecting like a hundred of them a day.
When I set up that trashcab with good speakers (heeding your advice), I used solder joints with banana plugs on the other end so I could switch 'em out and not have to worry about the spade connectors getting loose. Added bonus with using banana plugs is that they're stackable and reorientable, so you can effectively change the impedance of the whole cab just by changing the plugs around like building a lego set.
Using a 1.5v battery at some point to check if the speakers are all in phase properly is also a good idea + to + and - to - will make the speaker move forward, + to - will make it move backwards, they should all move in the same direction, also good way to check if a speaker works or find polarity if its not marked or worn
I love all the roadblocks your hitting. It's perfect, this is the shit the first timer should expect. Roadblocks and puzzles and your showing us the way through them. Thanks. Also, the song playing when you're loading the cab is sweet, what's is it?
If you need any amount of torque, you use either Pozidriv (looks like Phillips, but is totally not compatible, everyone should google this) or you use Torx. Torx bits are rarely good fits to the screw heads, so they have issue of wobbling or not staying on the bit... Pozidriv geometry is made so the screw head and the bit will mate tightly eliminating the wobble quite well. Phillips is good only for screwing by hand to a ready made machine thread... it's awful for wood-screws or anything else that cuts it's own threads. It'll cam out and strip the head or damage the bit.
first audio mod i ever did was swapping my Peavey Backstage 2's little 5 inch speaker for a 12 inch sheffield. What a dramatic change. It actually had bottom end afterwards whereas before it was mostly all scratchy highs. Putting better, bigger speakers into a little 15w practice amp is always a good first choice over just buying a whole new amp.
It turns out to be a good thing that so many unexpected things popped up. Makes a better educational video! More annoying to do, especially when filming, but it does clearly show that it's still pretty easy to do, even when you get unexpected issues. As an electronics engineer: A proper connector works exactly the same as soldering. If it's rusted and bent out of shape you can get issues, but you just cut it off, crimp a new connector on and you're ready! Never EVER solder speakers unless you have absolutely no other option and you NEED them to work quickly.
This help out a lot I’m swapping out my Celestion V-type G 12 16 ohm to a eminence DV - 77 16 ohm In my prs stealth cab and they soldered the speaker in so showing how to do the connectors really helped. Thank you, Glenn.
As someone who has repaired electronics for 20+ years I don't suspect there's any audible difference at all with solder vs crimp, as long as they're both done correctly. For a piece of gear that sits in a studio & doesn't get banged around on tour or that you might want to swap drivers (i.e. speakers) the crimp connectors will save a lot of work! On the other hand for something that's going to get abused being moved from venue to venue I'd feel better soldering it for long term reliability. Would love to see you do the 8 ohms vs 16 ohms video! I've never been able to hear or measure a difference provided it's being powered by an appropriate amp. Using an amp that's not designed to handle the impedance of the cab can certainly have an effect but not a good one!
I have Vintage 30 speakers from the 1980s and also the 1990s. Classic Lead 80s also. In 1988 I worked at Guitar Center San Francisco. There was confusion as to the power handling ability of the Vintage 30, which was relatively new at the time. I called Celestion, and as a store rep I was able to talk to the head of the technical relations department. He said at that time they were rating the Vintage 30 at 70 watts but assured me that it could handle 100 watts with no problem, and that it was a new design.
I remembered this video existed and watched again as I was swapping out a speaker in my Mesa cab. Thanks for saving me the time of finding the 11/32 driver! Despite being careful, I too now know the feeling of hot solder on flesh.
Would definitely love to see an 8 ohm vs 16 ohm video. I recently picked up a 1x12 with an 8 ohm Eminence (g12k I think?) loaded cab for my stereo rig and it sounds much different than the same 1x12 I've owned for years with the same speaker except it's 16 ohm. I like the 16 ohm better
Glen, I just downloaded your New IR of the vintage 30's for my pod go, they sound awesome! I've used it with both clean and dirty settings and they have great clarity, haven't tried them in a mix yet but I can already tell they are going to be my go to ir for my cabs. Thanx for all of your help you rock dude.
Here's a funny little anecdote that also ties into the tube vs solid state debate: a short while ago I wanted to try and downscale, so I got myself a H&K Stompman (ss pedal amp) with a 1x12 cab. After a few rehearsals and gigs where I didn't quite get my sound where I wanted it, my band played a gig where the venue provided backline, including a Marshall 1960AV 4x12 cab that I could set to 4ohm mono, so the H&K could crank out its full 50watts. Better speakers and higher power output immediately solved a bunch of issues I initially had and made me realise the H&K itself wasn't the problem. I let the provided Orange amp sit on top of the cab during sound check, just in case, and left it there during the show. Afterwards some guy came up to me to say how happy he was to see someone play with a proper tube amp, because "you can only get an authentic tone like that with a real tube amp". My band also tried to convince me to the ditch the H&K, because "the Orange" sounded so much better. Suffice to say some jaws dropped to the floor when I told them the Orange wasn't plugged in at all and the sound came from this tiny box on my pedal board. Few moths later, I've grown quite fond of that little box, but I am going to swap out the speaker in my cab because I think there's a bit to gain on that front.
Hi Glenn, nice video! Over the years I've made my own cabs of various configurations, rewired others for friends and just recently did a big refurb on a 2 x 15 so am quite familiar with series, parallel and series-parallel wiring etc. I think for those that needed this video, a follow up explaining the different types of wiring and delving into resistances you can end up with, in tandem with the ranges specified by amp manufacturers, would be a very good thing.
I would love a video explaining the different wiring systems and how it affects the wattage and ohms of an amp. I’ve done a little research myself but you’re the man that knows his shit!
100% would love to see a follow-up video. I'm literally 3/4 of a day's drive from my closest good music shop so knowing as much as I possibly can is a life(and massive money) saver! Lol
About connections: I don't think the connection type matters at all in terms of sound, but there's probably a durability aspect. Aligator clips are perfectly fine for testing, but I'd be anxious about using them in a cab that has to survive a trip on the tour bus (or gear truck)
I would absolutely want to see more of this series, i feel confident i can change speakers in my cabs, also could you bring back the history of recording series?
Definitely want a follow up! I know that evh would not use anything but a 16 ohm( check that, rather i have heard!) I just can't avoid making the "i know" mistake sometimes
Ive got my dads late 70s Peavey Classic 2x12 tube amp. It sounds decent with the og speakers. But it def needs the pots cleaned and a little cleaning. I would love to try a greenback and another speaker to replace the og's when I restore it. Inspired by an older video of yours. I think a blend of 2 speakers would be killer
Definitely want to see a follow up! Especially if you want to load a cab with multiple different speakers (seen Will Putney do this and really interested in it!)
I watched this with the hope you would address the soldering debate and as always glenn did not disappoint! I had done both and the only difference i ever experienced was the headache from breathing the fumes!!
I would love to see a video on wiring a 4x12. I have built 2 2x12 cabs, and am looking to build a 4x12 but the wiring seems a little overwhelming. Also check the Mojotone Watchtower speaker. Absolutely wonderful when paired with a WGS Veteran 30.
I picked up a Peavey Max 100 (bassist) last year and while it's a great little travel/practice amp it just didn't quite have the lows and low mids I wanted. I swapped in a Celestion BN with a power handling triple the amps output and now it freaking rips! Just a little 110 60-70watts rms and it punched through and mixed right in with an acoustic drum kit and a loud ass guitarist for some heavy rock.
Hey Glenn, thought this video was awesome! Changing out the speakers was definitely pretty simple all things considered, but I think unless some people are actually shown the steps, they tend to think it's not possible or it's too hard, so thank you for making this video! I've been thinking about your statements about how you say the best way to change/improve your tone is the speakers and why so few other average guitarists think about it this way. I think it comes from a matter of what has become common knowledge, particularly with what information the guitar industry feeds us. And it certainly doesn't translate into "simplified" thinking as well as it does with guitars and amps. "EMG's are for metal." "Fender's are for shining cleans." "Mesa/Boogie are great metal amps.", these simplified sentiments that I believe are relatively easy conclusions to come to with only a little bit of research, which in turn make it easy for a consumer to narrow down their choice to buy a product really quickly. And I realize, at least from my knowledge base, I don't have such knowledge of speakers, not even to a simple level as "X is good for Y genre" (aside from Celestion Vintage 30's being used by everyone). While I think your average consumer should try to put more research and thought into their decision making than my above simplified statements, the average public would be greatly benefit from having more accessibly laid out information about speakers! So, perhaps I need to dig through your youtubue catalogue more deeply to find more information about speakers, I would like to suggest this idea for a video: A consolidated breakdown video of speakers. What speakers are on the market (the basic who's who), what characteristics define them, what aspects of speakers change their tonality, etc.- essentially an intro encyclopedia into speakers from your knowledge and experience. Obviously I could be digging into this information online by scouring the internet a bit more, but with your voice reaching out to many people, educating them further to assist them on basic speaker literacy to assist in fundamental decision making would go a long way. A bit long winded, but I thought I'd throw in my thoughts. Thanks for all the awesome content Glenn, keep up the good shit!
The issue with spade vs solder is vibration. There is a possibility for the spade connector to vibrate loose and cause connection issues. the likelihood of spade connectors vibrating loose might be unlikely, but its one more thing to not worry about
the speakers may not be marked positive or negative but they can be checked by quickly touching a 9 volt battery across the terminals. the battery terminals are clearly marked. if the speaker's cone pushes forward it's the correct polarity. if it pushes backward, it's incorrect. just match up the correct direction with the correct polarity.
love you glenn! was looking around for some information on soldering and speaker wire and spade connectors since im putting together a cab from implicit audio and this video delivers the goods!
Hi, Glenn! To prevent any phase shift, I always prefer to have my speakers wired 100% in parallel. A single speaker automatically avoids the choice of series or parallel. I wish Marshall, Orange et al., would have all four speakers in their respective 4x12s wired in parallel, but I was told that Marshall uses this scheme in their 4x12s: two speakers wired in parallel with the other two in series. So it is series/parallel wiring used by Marshall. When playing live, that tiny and miniscule amount of phase shift probably won’t matter much; however, in the studio I do prefer to record with a single 12-inch or single 10-inch when possible.
interesting🤔 i dont know what happened to an old bass players 8x10 cab but it was out of phase n when he blew aluminum speakers sparks shot out. im glad i stick to 2x12s for guitar, and single 15s for bass. much simpler wiring. fixing 8x10 was out of my comprehension.🤯🍻
Well, I did it, I did swap my and it’s just a different beast. I swapped the speakers that come in the Marshall origin cab for some greenbacks and it was a drastical change
I like this vid. Maybe you could do a vid building a cab from scratch. Not necessarily constructing the cab, itself, but installing the speakers and doing the wiring. Explaining different types of wiring/setups, how the wires connect to the jacks, and daisy chains.
Dude I have so much fun watching your channel. Thank you Fucking great. I’m the guitarist that had a kid and put the instrument down for 30 years lol. Back at it and with help from your channel maybe I can actually record something. Really love the show.
On the other hand with spade connectors you have to be sure the copper makes contact with the metal inside the barrel. Also to get a more secure crimp you can press the handle of your stakeon against a table.
Never be surprised about people wanting you to give them knowledge that you would think is obvious. IMHO so many catastrophes have been caused by assuming someone knows what you are talking about! This stuff is pure gold especially for newbies, who now might be bidding against you on ebay for that classic speaker you have to have.......
Speaking of speakers, Rhett Shull was talking about Hiwatt Amps. The one thing he said after all the explaining the amp, to truly get the Hiwatt sound is to have uh......wait for it........ A Fane Speaker. I even remember an episode somewhere about Randy Rhoads using Altec speakers in His Marshall Cabs. Again to your point, Speakers Speakers Speakers!
I bought an el-cheapo Stage Right 15w tube amp. For $215, you can’t beat the price! Anyway though about changing the tubes, but decided to replace the Celestion 70/80 with an Eminence Cannibis Rex. Woulds of difference, striking in fact. I may still change out the Chinese AX7s for some Slovak tubes, but I’m not in any hurry now that I have the new speaker in there.
Paper towel was a great idea! My EVH cab had everything soldered sadly so went through this same exercise. Seeing the loose solder remnants on the paper towel just made me go phew! that I didn't get those on the speaker or in the cab!
Great Video Glenn nice step by step. One note on the voltage the speakers are seeing. Its actually low voltage with high current. You can see upwards of 3 to 8A depending on the output transformer. Hence the reason we use big wiring from head to speakers. Everything else is top notch Thank you Glenn.
Great video and enjoyed the humor! Speed out is being added to my list of things I didn't know I needed thanks. Flow up video with comparisons of 8ohm, 16and 4 plus serial and parallel would be great.
In the process of building a cab and at some point putting in two eminence 150w 8ohm swamp thangs and two eminence Texas heat 150w 8ohms into my 4x12 cab, this vid has come at the right time pmsl. The electronics I'm using are soldered too (off a Laney lx4x12cab)
Hey Glenn. Great video! I'm pretty familiar with the topic myself, but it's stuff that could have removed any nerves and trepidation when I first started bumbling around with speaker cabs. One tip I've found that typically helps with thrashed out screws is to put a rubber band between the screw head and drill-bit / screwdriver. It's not perfect, and probably won't work with severely damaged heads, but it's worth a shot. The stiffer the rubber, the more force is needed to be applied to the screwdriver or drill and bit.
For european viewers you need 6.3mm spade connectors. If you got insulated connectors the red ones fit up to 1.5mm2 wire, the blue on go up to 2.5mm2. You can get away with thinner wire, if my memory serves me right 2.5 is good up to 500W for a few meters.
7:12 Omg, Line 6 cheaper "non v30 cab" speakers are a screw thru front/ nut on inside design. Your either going to puncture holes in the front cloth or have to remove itif the nut just spins. It's a Phillips screw head into a nut. The Line 6 v30 cab or spider valve cab is nutserts in the face of the cab and bolts on the inside. Every cab is going to be different. A Siesmic Audio 4x12 is front loaded. I got the unloaded box so I can use nutserts or studs or whatever.
Jeez, even on my phone’s speakers I can hear the difference in top end between the 03 and 06 models. Between phone speakers and TH-cam compression I wasn’t sure I was going to hear anything but that difference is clear as day.
So should I change speaker in my Fender Mustang II? After seeing Glenn talk about it a bit and up to this video I've considered it more and more because it sounds like it might make a good improvement. I'm specifically wanting to look into it because I plan on getting that Dismember Swedish Death Metal sound.
Something I learned yesterday is that different speakers may have different size spade connectors. I bought a new speaker and the wire to the old one had a smaller spade on the negative than the positive while the new speaker needed two larger ones. So that left me with the choice of spending $10 on a pre made cable with the right connectors or a $10 truck load of connectors that I’ll never use and will only clutter up my workshop. Also if you weren’t aware of it there’s a hilariously bitter rivalry between pro-solder and pro-crimp crowds in the auto repair community.
Thanks for the video Glenn! Would love to see a follow up video with series and parallel wiring. Also would love to see a video on front loaded cabs as well!
Wiring diagram video would be great. I have a road king cab that you can split into 2 2x12s depending on how you plug in. I'd be interested in learning how all the wiring works before I mess with changing anything inside (beyond a simple swap). I'm wanting to put in a pair a greenbacks instead of the Black Shadows, to use instead of/in tandem with the V30s.
I imagine the advantage of a better connection is with lower resistance you get less heat at the connections, which means its less of a fire hazard, which is why I wouldn't use aligator clips, however spade connections is plenty sufficient and much more user friendly. There is no actual point in using solder over spade
I'd love to hear your take on folks running their multi-effects processors and amp/cab modelers direct into PA speakers/systems (ffr speakers, whatever they wanna rebrand them as) as opposed to running it into a traditional amp and cab, then miking up the cab for a venue. I like the idea of being able to just use the helix native and related plug-ins in a mix, then importing the same preset into the respective multi-effects processor and feeling confident that it'll sound more like the mix. I fear that confidence might just be some placebo effect though. Long-time subscriber, helped me a lot on my musical journey, always love the content
Here are some suggestions. If you have to deal with solder. Get some desoldering tools too. A desoldering tape would work wonders. When you are in your local big name box store, go to the isle that has the scews in it, and pick up a box of replacement screws. Same for the #2 phillips screwdriver bit. You can get whatever type you like to use. And some of them you can get in bulk.
When recording cabs the mic is usually very close to just a single speaker. Is there any reason you wouldn't just buy single speaker cab instead? Also just sounds like the best solution when it comes to space.. 4x cabs are kinda large. Or do you recommend getting a 4x cab and have 4 different speakers in each socket? Does that make a difference?
a big cab makes for a change in sound cuz resonance and other technical stuff . 4 different speakers will each sound different on mic for sure but youll probably get a tid bit of the others coming through the mic too. in room sound will definitely be different than a close mic as itll all congeal into 1 sound....single cabs can be used instead for sure.... but if you want to be able to pick which speaker you can get complicated with 4x cabs to save space.... and some have wiring & switching to only run/power 2 speakers (the other 2 move cuz air moving but output very little) which is handy for someone with space constraints wanting multiple sounds on mic... ...tldr...4x cabs can save space but it gets complicated
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Just found ur channel! I love it ! Subbed.
It might seem like a basic task that didn't need a video, but many of us were never taught this stuff growing up and need to start somewhere. Thanks for making it.
You're welcome, Lance!
@@SpectreSoundStudios Yeah when I started my tool and DIY home repair channel and showed my first video to my friend his reaction was: "Yeah but growing up you had your dad to teach you that stuff."
Nice name boi
@@lance___ Ayyyyyyy
Clearly even the pros can struggle with this 🤣
I think this video shows a lot of truth, when doing some of this DIY stuff. You run into unforeseen problems and you have to problem solve through them. You don’t give up and you don’t get overwhelmed. You say it sucks, and you move on. Glen, I really appreciate the honesty how simple things all of a sudden get difficult.
Don't forget to label your cabs after you start swapping speakers! Some Gaffer tape on the back does nicely. I note which speakers are in there (with their individual watts and ohms), the overall watts for the cab, the ohm rating for the cab, and how the cab is wired (series or parallel or series/parallel, etc..). LIFE SAVER later when you're plugging them into to new or different things.
wise
Too much work. I prefer the “set it and forget it” method so later I wind up having electrical issues and damaging components. It’s a lot more chaotic and fun
@@slayabouts lmmfao
@@slayabouts I can’t believe I didn’t think of this. You, good sir, are a hero.
@@NubsWithGuns Actually, I will mark a speaker for location within the cab IF it’s the speaker I’ve chosen as the one to mic. Not sure that means anything but at least it keeps everything consistent once I’ve marked the grill cloth for mic placement lol
A follow up video would be great. I think a lot of folks would benefit from seeing how series and parallel wiring can help them match impedences between their cab and their head.
Definitely! You gotta count your ohms.
I definitely need that myself! I want to change my speakers for GT75s and i want to make sure i don't screw this up XD
I live in an apartment so I'm stuck with amp sims, so I downloaded the vintage 30 IRs and that's been a lot of fun! Thank you for making it publicly available.
Glad I could help!
I love the fact that you didn't edit out all of the bs that comes along with doing this sort of DIY work, there's always something that goes wrong or some unforeseen obstacle.
Thumbs up to sharing what real life is like
One thing I've run into with swapping speakers is making sure the mount screws are evenly torqued. If you put them in uneven, you can warp the speaker basket and cause odd sounds.
Star pattern tighten down like a tire
The fact we can swap out speakers and get a MASSIVE difference in tone for roughly the same price as new guitar pickups (in some cases, these actually cost more and aren't as significant to our final tone in comparison) is incredible. But at the same time so telling as to how our brains work as guitar players lmao
Little tip for when you're de-soldering: use solder wick. it's a strand of braided copper wire that absorb solder when heated and in contact with said solder. it avoids spillages and remove a lot of solder. it's a consumable though so you might need 2 or 3 around just to have some margin.
Also use new solder each time you make a new joint since the wire contain flux which make soldering a lot easier.
This video really represents the dilemma of many DIY tasks. "This should only take a few minutes" often quickly evolves into an hours long odyssey. All part of the fun!
2:40 grab one of those magnetic trays from the auto shop! They stick to anything you have metal, and the screws stick to it! been using them for years fixing my guitar! Also on your drill, make sure you turn the torque down so it doesnt strip screws as easily! Keep it up Glenn!
Ironic suggestion considering the magnetic tray auto parts store sells is made from a speaker magnet and a cup.
@@Crunchifyable2 thats crazy, even better! Lmao thats actually pretty sick I had no clue!
Just changed out my Marshall cabinet 4x12 cheap MG series G12-412MGs to 2 Celestion Greenbacks and 2 EVH Celestion. The cabinet is run with EVH 5150 6l6 50W head unit. I bought the speakers from Thoman after hearing you last video on speakers and tone. The tone is the tone I have been searching for and now my setup is complete. Thanks for all the good advice on tone and speakers.
I think a dedicated video regarding different ohms (2,4,8,16) is better given the power differences and requirements. PAs, guitar and bass amps often have different power requirements, particularly with moving that to a speaker that might only move with bass, or others (like cabinets with horns). Fires can happen if not set right. It is definitely an important lesson.
I liked this video Glenn. I’ve swapped many speakers out in my day and of this entire video, and dealing with my own personal electronic projects from time to time, I was surprised to learn that you could rotate that style of wire stripper! I’ve always just clamped and yanked. Over the years I’ve opted for the squeeze and strip style tool. Also, when it comes to soldering, if one can handle this task then there’s no reason they can’t work on their own guitars too! My point is that don’t forget to protect your guitars finish the same way that you protected the speakers cone. Nothing says “fuuuuuuuuuck” like solder spatter all over you shiny finish.
Believe it or not…this video is a must watch. Thanks Glenn.
You're welcome, Charles!
I felt this - every electrical upgrade project I've done has several plan-changing surprises once you get into the existing item.
Glenn, I really think you nailed it with this video and a follow up about wiring diagrams and how to understand them would be excellent.
However, in my day job as an HVAC tech I have found that using power tools can lead to bigger issues down the road. Especially if you strip a screw head or out right snap the screw itself. My college instructor has said that all you have to do is “snug it up”.
Another good tip is to acquire magnetic screw drivers, nut drivers, or socket wrenches to really speed up the process.
I am really enjoying the content you are putting out lately and watch every week.
Keep up the great work you’ve been doing, and f you Glenn!
James from Minnesota.
I think the 16 vs 8 ohm speaker shootout would be a great watch!
VERY long post with tips from a guy whos done literally thousands of these..
good luck everyone hope your install goes well!
mostly in order with the video times....great video Glen!
--1-- That farty sound is "the bad sound"
(the screws on his cab are probably worn out)
make sure your screw driver is pointed in the exact same direction as the screw to stop it.
production installed screws are always "straight in"....(perpendicular to surface)
if the screw head is stripped bad before you start youll get that sound and make things worse....if the screw has been screwed with you gotta find the angle that doesnt make the noise...go slow..it helps.
--2-- Some cabs have weird/different wiring from others....take pictures, draw diagrams before disconnecting anything...write the wire colors and symbols....
the terminals will have marks of + or -
new speakers might swap which side the + or - is on...so look and mark that info.
if white wire is +...put it on the + of the new speaker...
swapping the +- WILL put the speaker "out of phase" and change the sound...
even if its only a single speaker cab....in a 4x cab you MUST wire it correctly.
some cabinets have different wiring for different ohms etc...
do not mix different ohm speakers (if you know how to do it properly this info is baby stuff to you so shush lol)
--3-- Spade connectors vs solder is a 50yr old argument. Glen is correct.
both work fine if you use the proper connectors...
solder is cheaper but a little more guaranteed especially in a factory.
if it wiggles and is floppy sloppy its bad.....
the connectors glen uses are a generic size, not special to that manufacturer.
sometimes a VERY slight bend in the spade (male side) or squish of the female side will help them hold more snugly....VERY slight goes a long way!
--4-- Swapping speaker brand and model could mean the screw holes dont line up.
most cabs mount speakers with wood screws through the speaker holes into the cab.
not like this cabinet (using embedded machine screws)
if the holes dont line up with the old ones, just turn the speaker so the new holes are about an inch (25mm) away from the old holes.....
tracing the old speaker with a marker will help you stay centered..tilt the marker to make the circle bigger, then eyeball or measure to center in the drawn/traced circle.
I’m looking at speaker changing because I have my vintage 30s , and thanks to you I know mixing speakers is ok
Glenn......my favorite cab is a Marshall 1960A that I put Vintage 30’s and Greenbacks in an ‘X’ pattern and the mix of the 2 is UNBELIEVABLE!!! Maybe a video about blending different speakers or what speakers compliment each other?? I think many players could benefit from this!
That's a good idea man, I've been thinking about swapping out my MG cab speakers
Great video Glenn, even showing the problems that popped up. Well done.
I'd really like to see more freq. response graphs in the future, especially when you get around to making the dv-77 video. I've been wanting to see its freq. response compared to the other speakers popular within the genre. Very useful video as always, Glenn.
Thanks Glen. I'd like to say it's pretty cool to see the unforeseen stuff you ran into such as the bits not fitting, and soldered connections instead of spades. You could have easily edited that out, but chose to use it as a teaching moment than some of us non-professionals probably need to see. Thanks.
Bass speakers. Finally. Something older than my bass strings. .
.Speakers made a huge difference in my 90s Fender 4x12. The old Jensens died and the replacements were from Carvin... maybe 20 years ago. It is still my favorite cabinet I own
If you do strip the screws don’t worry. U use a dremel or a jack saw blade and slot the head. This turns it to a flat head so u can get it out, then just replace it with a Phillips after u get it out.
Note: if you're swapping a speaker out of a China/Korea/Indonesian combo amp, where the wires are using spade connectors, you might run into a situation where the existing negative cable post (black) is narrower than the positive (red). This prevents a direct swap with your standard Celestion, where spade posts are the wide variety. Attaching a new connector onto the black wire will be necessary (I solder mine). My understanding is that the mis-matched posts are used on those speakers to prevent the wrong wire being attached in a factory environment, where they're connecting like a hundred of them a day.
When I set up that trashcab with good speakers (heeding your advice), I used solder joints with banana plugs on the other end so I could switch 'em out and not have to worry about the spade connectors getting loose. Added bonus with using banana plugs is that they're stackable and reorientable, so you can effectively change the impedance of the whole cab just by changing the plugs around like building a lego set.
Using a 1.5v battery at some point to check if the speakers are all in phase properly is also a good idea + to + and - to - will make the speaker move forward, + to - will make it move backwards, they should all move in the same direction, also good way to check if a speaker works or find polarity if its not marked or worn
9 volt batteries work best for this.
I love all the roadblocks your hitting. It's perfect, this is the shit the first timer should expect. Roadblocks and puzzles and your showing us the way through them. Thanks. Also, the song playing when you're loading the cab is sweet, what's is it?
If you need any amount of torque, you use either Pozidriv (looks like Phillips, but is totally not compatible, everyone should google this) or you use Torx. Torx bits are rarely good fits to the screw heads, so they have issue of wobbling or not staying on the bit... Pozidriv geometry is made so the screw head and the bit will mate tightly eliminating the wobble quite well.
Phillips is good only for screwing by hand to a ready made machine thread... it's awful for wood-screws or anything else that cuts it's own threads. It'll cam out and strip the head or damage the bit.
first audio mod i ever did was swapping my Peavey Backstage 2's little 5 inch speaker for a 12 inch sheffield. What a dramatic change. It actually had bottom end afterwards whereas before it was mostly all scratchy highs. Putting better, bigger speakers into a little 15w practice amp is always a good first choice over just buying a whole new amp.
It turns out to be a good thing that so many unexpected things popped up. Makes a better educational video! More annoying to do, especially when filming, but it does clearly show that it's still pretty easy to do, even when you get unexpected issues.
As an electronics engineer: A proper connector works exactly the same as soldering. If it's rusted and bent out of shape you can get issues, but you just cut it off, crimp a new connector on and you're ready! Never EVER solder speakers unless you have absolutely no other option and you NEED them to work quickly.
This help out a lot I’m swapping out my Celestion V-type G 12 16 ohm to a eminence DV - 77 16 ohm In my prs stealth cab and they soldered the speaker in so showing how to do the connectors really helped. Thank you, Glenn.
As someone who has repaired electronics for 20+ years I don't suspect there's any audible difference at all with solder vs crimp, as long as they're both done correctly. For a piece of gear that sits in a studio & doesn't get banged around on tour or that you might want to swap drivers (i.e. speakers) the crimp connectors will save a lot of work! On the other hand for something that's going to get abused being moved from venue to venue I'd feel better soldering it for long term reliability.
Would love to see you do the 8 ohms vs 16 ohms video! I've never been able to hear or measure a difference provided it's being powered by an appropriate amp. Using an amp that's not designed to handle the impedance of the cab can certainly have an effect but not a good one!
I have Vintage 30 speakers from the 1980s and also the 1990s. Classic Lead 80s also. In 1988 I worked at Guitar Center San Francisco. There was confusion as to the power handling ability of the Vintage 30, which was relatively new at the time. I called Celestion, and as a store rep I was able to talk to the head of the technical relations department. He said at that time they were rating the Vintage 30 at 70 watts but assured me that it could handle 100 watts with no problem, and that it was a new design.
I remembered this video existed and watched again as I was swapping out a speaker in my Mesa cab. Thanks for saving me the time of finding the 11/32 driver! Despite being careful, I too now know the feeling of hot solder on flesh.
Would definitely love to see an 8 ohm vs 16 ohm video. I recently picked up a 1x12 with an 8 ohm Eminence (g12k I think?) loaded cab for my stereo rig and it sounds much different than the same 1x12 I've owned for years with the same speaker except it's 16 ohm. I like the 16 ohm better
Glen, I just downloaded your New IR of the vintage 30's for my pod go, they sound awesome! I've used it with both clean and dirty settings and they have great clarity, haven't tried them in a mix yet but I can already tell they are going to be my go to ir for my cabs. Thanx for all of your help you rock dude.
Premier Guitar have a great 2 part tutorial on changing speakers. I highly recommend everyone go watch that before doing this.
Great Video Glenn!!!
I miss the intro! Been a fan for awhile. Glenn is the best on this platform hands down 🤘
Great vid, thanks Glenn! Please show us more like this and continue with the idea about ohms and diagrams.
Love,
A Bass Player
Here's a funny little anecdote that also ties into the tube vs solid state debate: a short while ago I wanted to try and downscale, so I got myself a H&K Stompman (ss pedal amp) with a 1x12 cab. After a few rehearsals and gigs where I didn't quite get my sound where I wanted it, my band played a gig where the venue provided backline, including a Marshall 1960AV 4x12 cab that I could set to 4ohm mono, so the H&K could crank out its full 50watts. Better speakers and higher power output immediately solved a bunch of issues I initially had and made me realise the H&K itself wasn't the problem. I let the provided Orange amp sit on top of the cab during sound check, just in case, and left it there during the show. Afterwards some guy came up to me to say how happy he was to see someone play with a proper tube amp, because "you can only get an authentic tone like that with a real tube amp". My band also tried to convince me to the ditch the H&K, because "the Orange" sounded so much better. Suffice to say some jaws dropped to the floor when I told them the Orange wasn't plugged in at all and the sound came from this tiny box on my pedal board. Few moths later, I've grown quite fond of that little box, but I am going to swap out the speaker in my cab because I think there's a bit to gain on that front.
This is fucking genius. I want to do this.
Hi Glenn, nice video! Over the years I've made my own cabs of various configurations, rewired others for friends and just recently did a big refurb on a 2 x 15 so am quite familiar with series, parallel and series-parallel wiring etc. I think for those that needed this video, a follow up explaining the different types of wiring and delving into resistances you can end up with, in tandem with the ranges specified by amp manufacturers, would be a very good thing.
I would love a video explaining the different wiring systems and how it affects the wattage and ohms of an amp. I’ve done a little research myself but you’re the man that knows his shit!
100% would love to see a follow-up video. I'm literally 3/4 of a day's drive from my closest good music shop so knowing as much as I possibly can is a life(and massive money) saver! Lol
About connections:
I don't think the connection type matters at all in terms of sound,
but there's probably a durability aspect.
Aligator clips are perfectly fine for testing, but I'd be anxious about using them in a cab that has to survive a trip on the tour bus (or gear truck)
I would absolutely want to see more of this series, i feel confident i can change speakers in my cabs, also could you bring back the history of recording series?
Definitely want a follow up! I know that evh would not use anything but a 16 ohm( check that, rather i have heard!) I just can't avoid making the "i know" mistake sometimes
Ive got my dads late 70s Peavey Classic 2x12 tube amp. It sounds decent with the og speakers. But it def needs the pots cleaned and a little cleaning. I would love to try a greenback and another speaker to replace the og's when I restore it. Inspired by an older video of yours. I think a blend of 2 speakers would be killer
Definitely want to see a follow up! Especially if you want to load a cab with multiple different speakers (seen Will Putney do this and really interested in it!)
Glenn, that was a great tutorial. I would like to see something on difference between 8 amd 16 ohms. And different size speakers and cabs.
Yes, 16 vs 8 ohm speaker comparison would be great
I watched this with the hope you would address the soldering debate and as always glenn did not disappoint! I had done both and the only difference i ever experienced was the headache from breathing the fumes!!
Hi Glen,
great video today.
how about a video explaining Ohms and what it actually means to us guitar players
Great video. You show exactly what problems we can face, opening up a cab!
I would love to see a video on wiring a 4x12. I have built 2 2x12 cabs, and am looking to build a 4x12 but the wiring seems a little overwhelming.
Also check the Mojotone Watchtower speaker. Absolutely wonderful when paired with a WGS Veteran 30.
just think about it as 2 separate 2x12s acting as 1 speaker each your either gonna wire that pair in series or parallel.
That was a VERY dramatic difference! Night and day, in fact. Great video, Glenn!
Glad you enjoyed it
15:25 Yeah absulutely. Also speaker wattage in relation to amp wattage.
I picked up a Peavey Max 100 (bassist) last year and while it's a great little travel/practice amp it just didn't quite have the lows and low mids I wanted. I swapped in a Celestion BN with a power handling triple the amps output and now it freaking rips! Just a little 110 60-70watts rms and it punched through and mixed right in with an acoustic drum kit and a loud ass guitarist for some heavy rock.
Hey Glenn, thought this video was awesome! Changing out the speakers was definitely pretty simple all things considered, but I think unless some people are actually shown the steps, they tend to think it's not possible or it's too hard, so thank you for making this video!
I've been thinking about your statements about how you say the best way to change/improve your tone is the speakers and why so few other average guitarists think about it this way. I think it comes from a matter of what has become common knowledge, particularly with what information the guitar industry feeds us. And it certainly doesn't translate into "simplified" thinking as well as it does with guitars and amps. "EMG's are for metal." "Fender's are for shining cleans." "Mesa/Boogie are great metal amps.", these simplified sentiments that I believe are relatively easy conclusions to come to with only a little bit of research, which in turn make it easy for a consumer to narrow down their choice to buy a product really quickly. And I realize, at least from my knowledge base, I don't have such knowledge of speakers, not even to a simple level as "X is good for Y genre" (aside from Celestion Vintage 30's being used by everyone). While I think your average consumer should try to put more research and thought into their decision making than my above simplified statements, the average public would be greatly benefit from having more accessibly laid out information about speakers!
So, perhaps I need to dig through your youtubue catalogue more deeply to find more information about speakers, I would like to suggest this idea for a video: A consolidated breakdown video of speakers. What speakers are on the market (the basic who's who), what characteristics define them, what aspects of speakers change their tonality, etc.- essentially an intro encyclopedia into speakers from your knowledge and experience. Obviously I could be digging into this information online by scouring the internet a bit more, but with your voice reaching out to many people, educating them further to assist them on basic speaker literacy to assist in fundamental decision making would go a long way.
A bit long winded, but I thought I'd throw in my thoughts. Thanks for all the awesome content Glenn, keep up the good shit!
The issue with spade vs solder is vibration. There is a possibility for the spade connector to vibrate loose and cause connection issues. the likelihood of spade connectors vibrating loose might be unlikely, but its one more thing to not worry about
the speakers may not be marked positive or negative but they can be checked by quickly touching a 9 volt battery across the terminals. the battery terminals are clearly marked. if the speaker's cone pushes forward it's the correct polarity. if it pushes backward, it's incorrect. just match up the correct direction with the correct polarity.
love you glenn! was looking around for some information on soldering and speaker wire and spade connectors since im putting together a cab from implicit audio and this video delivers the goods!
Hi, Glenn!
To prevent any phase shift, I always prefer to have my speakers wired 100% in parallel. A single speaker automatically avoids the choice of series or parallel. I wish Marshall, Orange et al., would have all four speakers in their respective 4x12s wired in parallel, but I was told that Marshall uses this scheme in their 4x12s: two speakers wired in parallel with the other two in series. So it is series/parallel wiring used by Marshall. When playing live, that tiny and miniscule amount of phase shift probably won’t matter much; however, in the studio I do prefer to record with a single 12-inch or single 10-inch when possible.
interesting🤔 i dont know what happened to an old bass players 8x10 cab but it was out of phase n when he blew aluminum speakers sparks shot out. im glad i stick to 2x12s for guitar, and single 15s for bass. much simpler wiring. fixing 8x10 was out of my comprehension.🤯🍻
Well, I did it, I did swap my and it’s just a different beast. I swapped the speakers that come in the Marshall origin cab for some greenbacks and it was a drastical change
I like this vid. Maybe you could do a vid building a cab from scratch. Not necessarily constructing the cab, itself, but installing the speakers and doing the wiring. Explaining different types of wiring/setups, how the wires connect to the jacks, and daisy chains.
Changing from a celestion v30 ceramic to a celestion gold alnico speaker did wonders for my Orange TH30
Dude I have so much fun watching your channel. Thank you Fucking great. I’m the guitarist that had a kid and put the instrument down for 30 years lol. Back at it and with help from your channel maybe I can actually record something. Really love the show.
I think Glen stripping 2 screws immediately shows why a video for this is nice to have lol
On the other hand with spade connectors you have to be sure the copper makes contact with the metal inside the barrel. Also to get a more secure crimp you can press the handle of your stakeon against a table.
Never be surprised about people wanting you to give them knowledge that you would think is obvious. IMHO so many catastrophes have been caused by assuming someone knows what you are talking about! This stuff is pure gold especially for newbies, who now might be bidding against you on ebay for that classic speaker you have to have.......
Speaking of speakers, Rhett Shull was talking about Hiwatt Amps. The one thing he said after all the explaining the amp, to truly get the Hiwatt sound is to have uh......wait for it........ A Fane Speaker. I even remember an episode somewhere about Randy Rhoads using Altec speakers in His Marshall Cabs. Again to your point, Speakers Speakers Speakers!
I bought an el-cheapo Stage Right 15w tube amp. For $215, you can’t beat the price! Anyway though about changing the tubes, but decided to replace the Celestion 70/80 with an Eminence Cannibis Rex. Woulds of difference, striking in fact. I may still change out the Chinese AX7s for some Slovak tubes, but I’m not in any hurry now that I have the new speaker in there.
Paper towel was a great idea! My EVH cab had everything soldered sadly so went through this same exercise. Seeing the loose solder remnants on the paper towel just made me go phew! that I didn't get those on the speaker or in the cab!
Good call on using something to catch solder drippings, but maybe use something a little less flammable than paper towel.
Great Video Glenn nice step by step. One note on the voltage the speakers are seeing. Its actually low voltage with high current. You can see upwards of 3 to 8A depending on the output transformer. Hence the reason we use big wiring from head to speakers. Everything else is top notch Thank you Glenn.
One burning question I’ve had. Does the type of speaker grill also affect the tone? For an example no grill cover vs cloth vs metal.
The demo had an early 90's Carcass vibe to it. Very nice!
Great video and enjoyed the humor! Speed out is being added to my list of things I didn't know I needed thanks. Flow up video with comparisons of 8ohm, 16and 4 plus serial and parallel would be great.
In the process of building a cab and at some point putting in two eminence 150w 8ohm swamp thangs and two eminence Texas heat 150w 8ohms into my 4x12 cab, this vid has come at the right time pmsl. The electronics I'm using are soldered too (off a Laney lx4x12cab)
Hey Glenn. Great video! I'm pretty familiar with the topic myself, but it's stuff that could have removed any nerves and trepidation when I first started bumbling around with speaker cabs.
One tip I've found that typically helps with thrashed out screws is to put a rubber band between the screw head and drill-bit / screwdriver. It's not perfect, and probably won't work with severely damaged heads, but it's worth a shot.
The stiffer the rubber, the more force is needed to be applied to the screwdriver or drill and bit.
For european viewers you need 6.3mm spade connectors. If you got insulated connectors the red ones fit up to 1.5mm2 wire, the blue on go up to 2.5mm2. You can get away with thinner wire, if my memory serves me right 2.5 is good up to 500W for a few meters.
7:12 Omg, Line 6 cheaper "non v30 cab" speakers are a screw thru front/ nut on inside design. Your either going to puncture holes in the front cloth or have to remove itif the nut just spins. It's a Phillips screw head into a nut. The Line 6 v30 cab or spider valve cab is nutserts in the face of the cab and bolts on the inside. Every cab is going to be different. A Siesmic Audio 4x12 is front loaded. I got the unloaded box so I can use nutserts or studs or whatever.
This is actually really great. I’m kinda started to get interested in trying to speakers and other mods. Thanks dude
Jeez, even on my phone’s speakers I can hear the difference in top end between the 03 and 06 models. Between phone speakers and TH-cam compression I wasn’t sure I was going to hear anything but that difference is clear as day.
So should I change speaker in my Fender Mustang II? After seeing Glenn talk about it a bit and up to this video I've considered it more and more because it sounds like it might make a good improvement. I'm specifically wanting to look into it because I plan on getting that Dismember Swedish Death Metal sound.
Something I learned yesterday is that different speakers may have different size spade connectors. I bought a new speaker and the wire to the old one had a smaller spade on the negative than the positive while the new speaker needed two larger ones. So that left me with the choice of spending $10 on a pre made cable with the right connectors or a $10 truck load of connectors that I’ll never use and will only clutter up my workshop.
Also if you weren’t aware of it there’s a hilariously bitter rivalry between pro-solder and pro-crimp crowds in the auto repair community.
Thanks for the video Glenn! Would love to see a follow up video with series and parallel wiring.
Also would love to see a video on front loaded cabs as well!
That IR is fantastic. I pair it with OLA's "The One" and it's a match made metal
Wiring diagram video would be great. I have a road king cab that you can split into 2 2x12s depending on how you plug in. I'd be interested in learning how all the wiring works before I mess with changing anything inside (beyond a simple swap). I'm wanting to put in a pair a greenbacks instead of the Black Shadows, to use instead of/in tandem with the V30s.
I imagine the advantage of a better connection is with lower resistance you get less heat at the connections, which means its less of a fire hazard, which is why I wouldn't use aligator clips, however spade connections is plenty sufficient and much more user friendly. There is no actual point in using solder over spade
I'd love to hear your take on folks running their multi-effects processors and amp/cab modelers direct into PA speakers/systems (ffr speakers, whatever they wanna rebrand them as) as opposed to running it into a traditional amp and cab, then miking up the cab for a venue. I like the idea of being able to just use the helix native and related plug-ins in a mix, then importing the same preset into the respective multi-effects processor and feeling confident that it'll sound more like the mix. I fear that confidence might just be some placebo effect though. Long-time subscriber, helped me a lot on my musical journey, always love the content
I think this is a good exploration into stuff many might not know how to do.
Hey, great video! use an impact driver on low setting for screws instead of a drill. The impact feature keeps you from stripping screws
Here are some suggestions. If you have to deal with solder. Get some desoldering tools too. A desoldering tape would work wonders.
When you are in your local big name box store, go to the isle that has the scews in it, and pick up a box of replacement screws.
Same for the #2 phillips screwdriver bit. You can get whatever type you like to use. And some of them you can get in bulk.
When recording cabs the mic is usually very close to just a single speaker. Is there any reason you wouldn't just buy single speaker cab instead? Also just sounds like the best solution when it comes to space.. 4x cabs are kinda large. Or do you recommend getting a 4x cab and have 4 different speakers in each socket? Does that make a difference?
a big cab makes for a change in sound cuz resonance and other technical stuff .
4 different speakers will each sound different on mic for sure but youll probably get a tid bit of the others coming through the mic too.
in room sound will definitely be different than a close mic as itll all congeal into 1 sound....single cabs can be used instead for sure....
but if you want to be able to pick which speaker you can get complicated with 4x cabs to save space....
and some have wiring & switching to only run/power 2 speakers (the other 2 move cuz air moving but output very little) which is handy for someone with space constraints wanting multiple sounds on mic...
...tldr...4x cabs can save space but it gets complicated
And this proves why some one might need a video to learn these skills
This is a good tutorial... Recording school never thought me this!