Best explanation of how to setup and use a plane that I've seen. Showing the blade protrusion so clearly and wheel adjustment at the same time was especially helpful.
Very good demonstration video. Also your instructional aided showing the sole and blade along with the inset video was very helpful. So often many TH-camrs just pass their hand over the blade and expects the viewer to understand what they are feeling. I look forward to watching more hand tool videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
One of the best videos on plane use I have watched. Your mild mannered personality and clear voice are appreciated. I look forward to watching more and learning. Thank you.
You have quickly became my favorite woodworker. The chair horse build was amazing. Seeing your shop and life with it. I’m very interested in any sit down talking videos or articles about the woodworkers you followed and learned from. In-person fellowship or from published media authored by them. The John Nyquist chair horse made me think your knowledge is part of many others absorbed and then made to your own style. That interests me the most. Your experience with greater woodworking world. Thank you for creating a TH-cam channel to share your knowledge.
Wow! Thanks! The video you suggest would be difficult to do. So much of what I've learned is just snippets here and there, from classes, seminars, books, and magazines. When I was teaching, our student club would bring in various woodworkers to discuss their work and techniques. They included Garrett Hack, John Cederquist, Brian Boggs, Gary Rogowski, Patrick Edwards, Sam Maloof, Jim Ipekjian, and many more. Seminars during conventions included presenters like Michael Fortune. And John Nyquist taught at Cerritos College, where I taught. It would be a real challenge to put it all together, assuming I could even remember who taught me what...
@@CarlStammerjohn Maybe some bite-sized things come to mind or an overall concept that you took in and adopted. I just think it’s cool you’re sharing and have all that experience with others on your path to mastery. I’m sure any videos you make will delight. All of those guys are amazing but Michael Fortune really gets me. Any of his tables with leaf designs and inlays blow my mind.
Thanks, Carl, for another great teaching session. I always enjoy your videos. BTW, awesome camera work and editing. It made the lesson easy to understand and visualize. Can't wait for the next video.😊
Thank you so much for a well thought out, concise and effective lesson. For such a simple device, the nuances are plentiful. Also, may I ask about your end vise? I am going to start on a new bench. I like the traditional end vise more than a wagon vise as it seems to have more applications. Which hardware are you using? I am waiting on Lie Nielsen to reintroduce theirs (they say they are close), and I am unaware of any other viable alternatives. Once again, you've given me plenty to work on in my plane use, thank you.
You are welcome! My end vise (or tail vise) was designed by John Nyquist and was featured in The Workbench Book by John Landis. I took Nyquist's workbench class at Cerritos College, where he showed us how to make and install the vise. After he retired from teaching (around 2001), I started teaching the class and taught many students how to make his style of workbench. It requires this screw (www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-diameter-screw-1-1-4-32-mm) and a length of 3/4" x 1" rectangular steel bar. The rest is shop-made (and a lot of work). If you're interested, email me via the contact info on my website and I'll send you what I have. I have installed the L-N tail vise many times and would recommend it if they still made it. Note that there were some problems with that vise, which I assume they are fixing with the new release.
@@CarlStammerjohn Thank you for the response. I pulled out my copy of "The Workbench Book" and found the Nyquist tail vise with no problems. I will follow this with an email shortly. Thank you.
Back dragging doesnt dull blades singnificantly enough to matter. For finely set plane, sure the shaving might gets stuck, but for normal material removal back dragging is completely fine.
Good point. I'm sure it doesn't make much of a difference, but the bigger issue for me is the shaving getting stuck. When it does, it rarely just pulls out cleanly. You then need to get a small stick or similar to pry it out of the mouth. When that doesn't work, you have to take the blade out. Not worth the benefit of dragging the plane back along the wood (for me...).
Excellent setup video! Question: recently saved Bailey#5(type9). Set blade&chipbreaker too 1/16-1/32 spacing, frog set proper, would not make shaving. No room in mouth for chip. Set chipreaker back too about 3/16+, and we get a nice 1"+wide shaving. What is wrong with my plane? Thanks in advance.
Sorry for the delayed response... Most likely problem with your plane - the chipbreaker may not be seating well on the blade or is too blunt. Possible fix - carlstammerjohn.com/2017/09/18/plane-tune-up-6/ Or the forward part of the mouth has burrs or is not shaped correctly. See this - carlstammerjohn.com/2017/09/17/plane-tune-up-4/ Good luck and thanks for the nice comment!
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Best explanation of how to setup and use a plane that I've seen. Showing the blade protrusion so clearly and wheel adjustment at the same time was especially helpful.
Thanks! That was my goal in creating the video.
Very good demonstration video. Also your instructional aided showing the sole and blade along with the inset video was very helpful. So often many TH-camrs just pass their hand over the blade and expects the viewer to understand what they are feeling. I look forward to watching more hand tool videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
One of the best videos on plane use I have watched. Your mild mannered personality and clear voice are appreciated. I look forward to watching more and learning. Thank you.
You're welcome. Thanks for the nice comment!
Excellent video with really good information. The shots of the iron protruding from the mouth were nice and clear.
It's impossible to show a group of students standing around a bench what I'm seeing, so this video was the result of that. Glad you liked it!
You have quickly became my favorite woodworker. The chair horse build was amazing. Seeing your shop and life with it.
I’m very interested in any sit down talking videos or articles about the woodworkers you followed and learned from. In-person fellowship or from published media authored by them. The John Nyquist chair horse made me think your knowledge is part of many others absorbed and then made to your own style.
That interests me the most. Your experience with greater woodworking world. Thank you for creating a TH-cam channel to share your knowledge.
Wow! Thanks! The video you suggest would be difficult to do. So much of what I've learned is just snippets here and there, from classes, seminars, books, and magazines. When I was teaching, our student club would bring in various woodworkers to discuss their work and techniques. They included Garrett Hack, John Cederquist, Brian Boggs, Gary Rogowski, Patrick Edwards, Sam Maloof, Jim Ipekjian, and many more. Seminars during conventions included presenters like Michael Fortune. And John Nyquist taught at Cerritos College, where I taught. It would be a real challenge to put it all together, assuming I could even remember who taught me what...
@@CarlStammerjohn Maybe some bite-sized things come to mind or an overall concept that you took in and adopted. I just think it’s cool you’re sharing and have all that experience with others on your path to mastery. I’m sure any videos you make will delight.
All of those guys are amazing but Michael Fortune really gets me. Any of his tables with leaf designs and inlays blow my mind.
Thanks, Carl, for another great teaching session. I always enjoy your videos. BTW, awesome camera work and editing. It made the lesson easy to understand and visualize. Can't wait for the next video.😊
Thank you so much for a well thought out, concise and effective lesson. For such a simple device, the nuances are plentiful. Also, may I ask about your end vise? I am going to start on a new bench. I like the traditional end vise more than a wagon vise as it seems to have more applications. Which hardware are you using? I am waiting on Lie Nielsen to reintroduce theirs (they say they are close), and I am unaware of any other viable alternatives. Once again, you've given me plenty to work on in my plane use, thank you.
You are welcome! My end vise (or tail vise) was designed by John Nyquist and was featured in The Workbench Book by John Landis. I took Nyquist's workbench class at Cerritos College, where he showed us how to make and install the vise. After he retired from teaching (around 2001), I started teaching the class and taught many students how to make his style of workbench. It requires this screw (www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-diameter-screw-1-1-4-32-mm) and a length of 3/4" x 1" rectangular steel bar. The rest is shop-made (and a lot of work). If you're interested, email me via the contact info on my website and I'll send you what I have.
I have installed the L-N tail vise many times and would recommend it if they still made it. Note that there were some problems with that vise, which I assume they are fixing with the new release.
@@CarlStammerjohn Thank you for the response. I pulled out my copy of "The Workbench Book" and found the Nyquist tail vise with no problems. I will follow this with an email shortly. Thank you.
Back dragging doesnt dull blades singnificantly enough to matter. For finely set plane, sure the shaving might gets stuck, but for normal material removal back dragging is completely fine.
Good point. I'm sure it doesn't make much of a difference, but the bigger issue for me is the shaving getting stuck. When it does, it rarely just pulls out cleanly. You then need to get a small stick or similar to pry it out of the mouth. When that doesn't work, you have to take the blade out. Not worth the benefit of dragging the plane back along the wood (for me...).
Excellent setup video! Question: recently saved Bailey#5(type9). Set blade&chipbreaker too 1/16-1/32 spacing, frog set proper, would not make shaving. No room in mouth for chip. Set chipreaker back too about 3/16+, and we get a nice 1"+wide shaving. What is wrong with my plane? Thanks in advance.
Sorry for the delayed response...
Most likely problem with your plane - the chipbreaker may not be seating well on the blade or is too blunt. Possible fix - carlstammerjohn.com/2017/09/18/plane-tune-up-6/
Or the forward part of the mouth has burrs or is not shaped correctly. See this - carlstammerjohn.com/2017/09/17/plane-tune-up-4/
Good luck and thanks for the nice comment!