I found your channel a couple of weeks ago and have been binge watching. Still got a few to go to get them all watched. I like your teaching style so keep the videos coming. I've cleaned up a few planes myself but have never seen the shellac trick. Looks great!
If minor issues with the frog flatness are present, you might want to go by your local automotive machine shop and see if they will part with some lapping compound for lapping valves to their seats. Either way, cleaning before final reassembly is just a good practice for a restoration.
The lapping compound I use at 15:50 is the same material used for lapping valve seats. If you're referring to the flatness of the top of the frog (where the blade sits), I'm not sure how the lapping compound would work there. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Your observation regarding the metal file not being straight and hitting differently depending on the side: good metal files are supposed to be like that. Learned this in blacksmiths school many years ago.
It's wonderful to see a neglected tool returned to its glory. Shellac on the japanning is a great idea, thank you! I have a No. 7 that I want to use, however, the sole is cupped so that the heel and toe are high on the ends leaving a rather large gap in the middle when the sole is flat on a surface. I don't know what happened to the sole in its past, but I'm afraid I would have to remove too much metal on the ends to make it usable. Right now it leaves a nice smooth hump along the length of a board, not ideal for jointing. As usual, I digress, thank you for sharing.
I've never seen one that's as bad as you describe. Even if you could fix it, sounds like it might take a while to sand it flat. Too bad it's not warped the other direction; you could easily create a spring joint!
I used PSA roll sandpaper from Klingspor. If that or something similar is not available you could use contact adhesive spray, but I have found that can be challenging to get even. To remove it use mineral spirits (a messy job). The PSA paper is much more convenient.
Carl, Thanks for the videos. I am cleaning an old Stanley Bailey #6, fluted bottom. The debris is tough enough for a dental pick. Is there a solvent that I can use? Thanks.
Hard to know if there's a solvent that would work with something that hard. It's probably a combination of rust, wood, and dirt. Mechanical removal is most likely your best option. Fortunately it's easy to reach.
Good catch! I didn't even notice that. For the benefit of others, the Type 11 has a low knob. The knob in the video is the one that came with the plane. I have several other Type 11's and all of them have the low knob.
Well done. Thanks for sharing.
I found your channel a couple of weeks ago and have been binge watching. Still got a few to go to get them all watched. I like your teaching style so keep the videos coming. I've cleaned up a few planes myself but have never seen the shellac trick. Looks great!
Great restoration, it takes a lovely shavings. 👍
Beautiful work sir. Really a great thing to spend the time carefully restoring these classic tools. Good for a hundred years if taken care of.
Yes! And so nice to use a tool with so much history. Very rewarding.
If minor issues with the frog flatness are present, you might want to go by your local automotive machine shop and see if they will part with some lapping compound for lapping valves to their seats. Either way, cleaning before final reassembly is just a good practice for a restoration.
The lapping compound I use at 15:50 is the same material used for lapping valve seats. If you're referring to the flatness of the top of the frog (where the blade sits), I'm not sure how the lapping compound would work there. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Your observation regarding the metal file not being straight and hitting differently depending on the side: good metal files are supposed to be like that. Learned this in blacksmiths school many years ago.
Good to know! I was not aware of that. Thanks!
That’s interesting, why is that?
It's wonderful to see a neglected tool returned to its glory. Shellac on the japanning is a great idea, thank you! I have a No. 7 that I want to use, however, the sole is cupped so that the heel and toe are high on the ends leaving a rather large gap in the middle when the sole is flat on a surface. I don't know what happened to the sole in its past, but I'm afraid I would have to remove too much metal on the ends to make it usable. Right now it leaves a nice smooth hump along the length of a board, not ideal for jointing. As usual, I digress, thank you for sharing.
I've never seen one that's as bad as you describe. Even if you could fix it, sounds like it might take a while to sand it flat. Too bad it's not warped the other direction; you could easily create a spring joint!
I like this video!! It had a lot of good info and a good pace. I also like the tip on shellac. Do you think a paste wax would have a similar effect?
Paste wax won't give you the same effect, although it would inhibit further rust formation. It wouldn't be near as glossy as a film of shellac.
Great video! The shellac on the painted metal looks wonderful! Is that just a single coat too?
Thanks! Yes, just one coat of shellac.
good job! please tell me what kind of glue the sandpaper is glued to the lapping stone and what you use to remove the remaining glue. Thank you
I used PSA roll sandpaper from Klingspor. If that or something similar is not available you could use contact adhesive spray, but I have found that can be challenging to get even. To remove it use mineral spirits (a messy job). The PSA paper is much more convenient.
@@CarlStammerjohnthanks!
Carl, Thanks for the videos. I am cleaning an old Stanley Bailey #6, fluted bottom. The debris is tough enough for a dental pick. Is there a solvent that I can use? Thanks.
Hard to know if there's a solvent that would work with something that hard. It's probably a combination of rust, wood, and dirt. Mechanical removal is most likely your best option. Fortunately it's easy to reach.
@@CarlStammerjohn thanks
That is not a type 11 knob.
Good catch! I didn't even notice that. For the benefit of others, the Type 11 has a low knob. The knob in the video is the one that came with the plane. I have several other Type 11's and all of them have the low knob.