Your the best man just showing your whole journey mistakes and learning I'm right at this point in the hobby making some fun dumb and costly errors but that's how you learn I guess. Still live going back to these old vids they are still relevant 🤙cheers
i have hipargero too and for me the problem is the releasing of aluminum in the tank, in fact i put a plastic bag where the holder meets the water. Good luck
Gotta always float those salinity standards so they get up to temp! And if you can, calibrate the instrument with the bag in the water. Constant temp means more accurate calibration! 👍
Yes sir, I will try calibrating the checker again with the bag in the tank water. I did notice the temperature dropped a little while calibrating in the cup.
Disclosure: I only had time to watch till 8 min mark. I had the same issue, per Hanna's responses on R2R: The Hanna Checker is a conductivity salinity checker, it is not impacted by dissolved organics like a refractometer is. So it is normal for it to read lower than a refractometer. (do a search for it on R2R). My Hanna usually reads 1.024 when the refractometer reads 1.026. So they must be treated as DIFFERENT measurements, conductivity SG and Refractometer SG. If your Hanna is reading 1.025 then I would expect your refractometer to read 1.027 or so. Therefore the problem is, if you are mixing salt to 1.025/6 on the Hanna, then it is going to be more saline than water mixed to 1.025/6 with the refractometer.
well the hanner checker is just measuring EC and not SG at all, it then uses a conversion table to calculate the SG, the refractometer is giving the actual SG and not a calculated SG from another value (like EC)... Lots of things effect EC and this is why is is not a reliable measurement to calculate SG from.
Hi there! Thanks for your videos and for making your problem finding and solving process public. I am currently facing a similar issue with mine. Wondering what the ICP brought to light and whether you found the culprit yet? All my water parameters i am monitoring are just spot on where i want them to be. Still they are not as puffy not as happy as when i got them. Doing a ICP next as well. Looking forward to hear from you.
Hey man love your videos! I just wanted to make quick comment on salinity. I also used SG but got wild results. Turns out SG can be influenced by temp, time of day, and many other factors. I know SG is the hot thing to test but I recommend switching to PPT. There is nothing that affects it, your PPT is going to stay the same no matter temp, time of day or whatever. PPT is constant 👍
So funny... telegraham and I were talking about your frogspawn this morning. We were talking about lower par corals in high light and he said he thought you had yours under an XR30 in pretty high par at one time?
I actually just calibrated my Hannah Checker for the first time and hoping it continues to stay reliable. I have issues with my tanks getting to hot so the fact that it also has a temperature read out is a double win. However I've heard Dylan from Reef Dudes/one of his guest mention that you should run it on ppt because the temperature can affect the results on S.G. I'll have to rewatch it and make sure . I usually run Chemi Pure Elite carbon but it always takes 2 minutes to rinse it atleast, so when I rinsed it last week and nothing came off of it I thought I got a bad batch and just tossed it, gotta go the cheaper route sooner then later and just get a sock I can reuse like your doing. Good luck with the tank(s)
Interesting, I would have thought that the temperature compensation should work the same rather it's salinity or specific gravity. I'll double check, thanks for the idea!
In may case everything was good, salinity, all the parameters very stable, I found that the RODI water TDS was super high, for some reason my filter fail , so I increased the filtration from 4 stages to 7 and 2 a week keep checking the tds and filters .. make sure your water is 100 quality to make your salt and for refills
Go buy the coral life hydrometer! I had this same issue I have used many instruments Milwaukee, Hanna checker, manual refractometer, multiple hydrometers and in my experience everything has fluctuations but the coral life is rock solid! I now use the Hanna checker and back it up with the coral life hydrometer I always get a solid result. If I get anything weird from the Hanna my coral life hydrometer gives me a solid backup.
My frogspawn stayed pulled in, or closed up, until I got my P04 and N03 in balance. Now my N03 is 12ppm and P04 is 0.08. My frogspawn have never looked better. Just my experience.
I have to calibrate the Hannah checker pretty much every month if not sooner. I started noticing problems with it after my water kept testing off consistently. I am fairly disappointed with having to calibrate it too often. I'll probably go back to a refractometer.
Check out the tropic marin floating hydrometer (not a swing-arm), when carefully cleaned and stored, you can't get better accuracy! and BRS sells it now :)
I'd say it's your zero phosphates being your issue, lps like phosphates. I'm Going through the same with my hammers, I've been dosing phosphates for 2 weeks now every day trying to get to 0.1.
@@reefhomiejon9079 currently I'm 5-10 no3 and around 0.03. My lps were happy before but I never tested phosphates then so I dont know what level the were happy at. Sods law I only started testing when my sps were struggling.
My sps always do pretty good. 2 sps don’t like high phosphates but the rest don’t seem to care. My NITRATE was undetectable and my zoas started melting away. So now I try to keep that range to keep everybody happy
I had zero P04 for a while. Then, I'd get cyano outbreaks, gha, and my lps (especially my frogspawn) was always retracted. Now my P04 is at 0.08 and all of my corals have never looked better. P04 gets overlooked a lot.
I dropped salt creep into my tank by accident and it dropped onto my frogspawn melting it like a hot knife through butter so bad times. With a tank that size doing cup icp test seems like a waste of time as a large water change is easy and would make the test worthless or is that just me being negative soz
I think you should move the light to the other side of the tank a little bit and lower the flow on the frogspawn in my experience frogspawn seams to do much better in lower light and flow areas
I ALWAYS tell newcomers to the hobby who wanna mix to 1.026 to mix to .025 or .024 instead because it leaves that much more room for error when your salinity ends up raising. Good catch, man. Hanna products can be finnicky.
I would slowly raise Kh to 8dkh and change the units on the Hanna salinity tester to ppt. I think it gives you a more precise reading with ppt. Isn't zero phosphates an issue with softies n lps? I don't know, but I've always heard they prefer to have something.
I'm scratching my head, really look forward to the ICP. I also have some polyfilter on the shelf and will likely throw some into the HOB as well just in case.
I spy those logitech Z2300 speakers on your desk. Those were the best speakers logitech ever created. Hopefully the ICP test comes back and gives you a better idea of whats going on so it can be fixed!
Im torn on whether if i wanna keep running gfo and carbon or switch to a diy cheato reactor. I just got back into the hobby after almost 10 years and been trying to get caught up on everything.
The refractometer is the only accurate tool you have to measure the salt content, the other two are making calculations of the salinity based another measurement tracked against a conversion table (even the float hydrometer).
6.5 dKh is pretty low. I personally like my No3 a little higher (I like the 10-20 region especially for LPS) Po4 at 0 on the ULR Hanna is not great and is in the dino area...... what about Ca and Mg?
I had my frogspawn mad and than I noticed red flatworms pulled a ton off of it and a day later the frogspawn was back to its normal self. They were hard to spot and pulled maybe 20-30 off the flesh.
Try using Sl Aquas activated carbon. Each bag lasts 3-4 months. If im not mistaken its 20g carbon per 100L of water. Two of my lfs recommended it to me.
Inappropriate Reefer I really don’t know. I have 2 on a 40 gallon so it’s a bit more diluted than your tank. I can’t say I’ve seen any troubles with corals from it so far, and I’ve had it for about 6 months.
Always measure PPT because it is not affected by temperature. The water could be 60 or 90 and the measurement will be the same! That is why I always measure by PPT and not SG.
Is there a local reef club you can join? I am being serious, because it may help with things. You work so hard on the tank, yet so many things go awry. Good luck and sorry that happened.
Not sure it makes any difference if SG goes between 1024 and 10265 (usually the value on the calibration fluids). PPT from 30-36 probably also makes no differrnce.
In the middle in the front the small coral is too close to the hammer hammer sting other Corals including themselves do you have a chain reaction of a hammer coral stinging each other because one coral of a different species is too close to The hammer can get along with other hammers but not other varieties of Coral Besides toadstools
I'd be interested in knowing how your ICP test compares to your Hanna 774 for phosphate. I have heard and suspect that mine reads really high. I've seen posts where people would think their phosphates were as high as .05-.1, when an ICP test showed it near 0.
For salinity, you can't go wrong with the IO swing arm. I've always mixed a standard 35ppt solution to compare against and never had it fail me. I have a Milwaukee digital and handheld refractometer too, I don't trust either of them.
I done the same thing my ato line was to far in aio sump everytime I put my apex on feed mode the water would rise over my ato line and back siphon back in the 5gallon bucket happen so when I turn everything back on the sump runs dry the ato kicks on and all that water and kalk back in the tank smh live and learn the simple things 🙌🏾🙌🏾
Great content like always I just have a question I have 4 ppm nitrates and my phosphates are at 0.037 using Hanna Phosphorus ULR it’s that to high for phosphates
Hi I think the reason why your coral is pissed off is because you keep putting random dirty stuff in your tank like all the plastic packages, bottles, including your own hands.
Too much gfo lowering po4 to non detectable levels will hurt your corals eventually... i have done this.. raising the po4 to detectable level is a good idea but do not expect an immediate rebound in any case.
Inappropriate Reefer it was a hammer coral and also I had some sps bleach as a result. I sent in a triton test and one of the possible causes for the results said possibly too much gfo.
Don’t blindly trust those electronics. Hanna handheld salinity checkers are crap at the time of this writing. Their base unit which is much more expensive, is better than even Milwaukee. It is very good, but still, nothing better than the prism handheld refractometer. The VEEGEE refractometer is the best for stability and is pro quality. The cheaper ones available everywhere drift too much. Use your handheld prism refractometer and calibrate it with 1.026 solution of natural seawater such as ‘accurasea’ solution, calibrate if needed, and test and it is what is correct.
haha that ato problem happened to me a fewer times bc I messed with where I put my heater in my all in one tank and there was less blockage so the water level went down a ton so it kept pumping water into the display so it almost overflowed but it sucked the water to the rodi bucket thew the hose:/
Mine is 0.027 dkh14. 5 calc 500 mag 1400 forget digital get a deep six and a refractometer and use reef pro salt with hi kh mag and calc buffed and stick to same salt... salinity 0.025 to 0.028 won't affect corals its the rest of the stuff kh and mag and calcium that matters
O po4 and low alk is not good. Euphyllia go fat on po4 over 0.03. Btw recfractometer is the way to go always. For metal contaminants I always use GFO as it is one of my methods of po4 control
Interesting, Alk-wise I'll slowly raise it to around 7-ish since that's around where the salt mixes at... I plan to pull the GFO and see if things slowly improve. Afraid to do too much at once but hopefully this is the right direction.
@@InappropriateReefer if you check my tank page or instagram you will notice that I always have Po4 0.03 to 0.10 and my No3 2-10 and my LPS are fat and happy
@@InappropriateReefer that's the same fixture on the tank that was on the other tank before? If you have a par reading you could see what's it's working with? Hope they come back. Nothing like a fully open frogspawn!!
When u need to rise salinity, turn off your ato and it will increase by approx 0.001 daily thanks to evaporation. Too bad you make so many mistakes, not properly mixing salt (in a cup)? letting creeps burn your corals after adding... i guess the name of the channel is spot on
@@albertogutierrez512 It is, and other stuff that removes metal and I think silicates. that's why I said instead of GFO because then you'd be running 2 different forms of GFO.
@@MakerofThingss "calibrating way outside its use case". I'm lost bro, what are you talking about? This is what I do 6 months or so to ensure my readings are on point. Are you saying that ain't accurate?
Re: your salinity testing. Interesting. I'm a retired biomedical engineer. When calibrating CO2 incubators and anaerobic chambers, I'd never, ever use an electronic measuring device. I used a 'Fyrite' device which used a red liquid and the principal of gas absorbtion and the STP law to indicate CO2 level. It's an old-school testing apparatus for checking furnace combustion efficiency. I also maintained refractometers made by American Optical, which were used to check urine specific gravity in newborns. They were pretty reliable in terms of calibration accuracy long-term. In terms of reliability and maybe even trust-worthyness, I'd rate them: 1) swing arm device, 2) refractometer, and lastly, 3) Hanna checker. lol
When will we get a single trusted hand held tool that can give us a reading for SG,PH,Temp,Alk,Cal,PO4,and NO3 all at once with no reagent. Holy Grail of testers.
Your the best man just showing your whole journey mistakes and learning I'm right at this point in the hobby making some fun dumb and costly errors but that's how you learn I guess. Still live going back to these old vids they are still relevant 🤙cheers
i have hipargero too and for me the problem is the releasing of aluminum in the tank, in fact i put a plastic bag where the holder meets the water. Good luck
This is a great video showing what stops a tank in its tracks a year down the road
Gotta always float those salinity standards so they get up to temp! And if you can, calibrate the instrument with the bag in the water. Constant temp means more accurate calibration! 👍
Yes sir, I will try calibrating the checker again with the bag in the tank water. I did notice the temperature dropped a little while calibrating in the cup.
Wow I never knew this! Thank you for showing this. I always just used it at room temp!
Disclosure: I only had time to watch till 8 min mark. I had the same issue, per Hanna's responses on R2R: The Hanna Checker is a conductivity salinity checker, it is not impacted by dissolved organics like a refractometer is. So it is normal for it to read lower than a refractometer. (do a search for it on R2R). My Hanna usually reads 1.024 when the refractometer reads 1.026. So they must be treated as DIFFERENT measurements, conductivity SG and Refractometer SG. If your Hanna is reading 1.025 then I would expect your refractometer to read 1.027 or so. Therefore the problem is, if you are mixing salt to 1.025/6 on the Hanna, then it is going to be more saline than water mixed to 1.025/6 with the refractometer.
Seems like the older tool is easier and consistent
well the hanner checker is just measuring EC and not SG at all, it then uses a conversion table to calculate the SG, the refractometer is giving the actual SG and not a calculated SG from another value (like EC)...
Lots of things effect EC and this is why is is not a reliable measurement to calculate SG from.
Look closely on the meaty part of the heads. Could be flatworms.
Hi there!
Thanks for your videos and for making your problem finding and solving process public.
I am currently facing a similar issue with mine. Wondering what the ICP brought to light and whether you found the culprit yet?
All my water parameters i am monitoring are just spot on where i want them to be. Still they are not as puffy not as happy as when i got them.
Doing a ICP next as well.
Looking forward to hear from you.
I've definitely knocked some salt creep into my tank while doing maintenance but luckily I was able to suck it up quickly with my coral feeder lol
So how’d it turn out? I can’t find a follow up video. I’m having the same problem
AlK seems low to me, if it’s around 6.5 I would definitely check PH.
Yes I feel its too low Alk should be 8.5 may be 9, that my be the problem.
Hey man love your videos! I just wanted to make quick comment on salinity. I also used SG but got wild results. Turns out SG can be influenced by temp, time of day, and many other factors. I know SG is the hot thing to test but I recommend switching to PPT. There is nothing that affects it, your PPT is going to stay the same no matter temp, time of day or whatever. PPT is constant 👍
So funny... telegraham and I were talking about your frogspawn this morning. We were talking about lower par corals in high light and he said he thought you had yours under an XR30 in pretty high par at one time?
I actually just calibrated my Hannah Checker for the first time and hoping it continues to stay reliable. I have issues with my tanks getting to hot so the fact that it also has a temperature read out is a double win. However I've heard Dylan from Reef Dudes/one of his guest mention that you should run it on ppt because the temperature can affect the results on S.G. I'll have to rewatch it and make sure . I usually run Chemi Pure Elite carbon but it always takes 2 minutes to rinse it atleast, so when I rinsed it last week and nothing came off of it I thought I got a bad batch and just tossed it, gotta go the cheaper route sooner then later and just get a sock I can reuse like your doing. Good luck with the tank(s)
Interesting, I would have thought that the temperature compensation should work the same rather it's salinity or specific gravity. I'll double check, thanks for the idea!
In may case everything was good, salinity, all the parameters very stable, I found that the RODI water TDS was super high, for some reason my filter fail , so I increased the filtration from 4 stages to 7 and 2 a week keep checking the tds and filters .. make sure your water is 100 quality to make your salt and for refills
A TH-camr on here I think it's Nathan Willard had an issue and found his Hanna Checker was not giving accurate readings even after calibration.
Go buy the coral life hydrometer! I had this same issue I have used many instruments Milwaukee, Hanna checker, manual refractometer, multiple hydrometers and in my experience everything has fluctuations but the coral life is rock solid! I now use the Hanna checker and back it up with the coral life hydrometer I always get a solid result. If I get anything weird from the Hanna my coral life hydrometer gives me a solid backup.
Take care of that gorgeous froggy! Salinity problems are too often overlooked when issues arise. Good Luck!
When i hear that background music it makes my day!!
Did you get to the bottom of it? or make a follow up video? Thanks
My frogspawn stayed pulled in, or closed up, until I got my P04 and N03 in balance. Now my N03 is 12ppm and P04 is 0.08. My frogspawn have never looked better. Just my experience.
You put saltwater wet hanna checker in calibration solution without getting it dry. 👍
I have to calibrate the Hannah checker pretty much every month if not sooner. I started noticing problems with it after my water kept testing off consistently. I am fairly disappointed with having to calibrate it too often. I'll probably go back to a refractometer.
Check out the tropic marin floating hydrometer (not a swing-arm), when carefully cleaned and stored, you can't get better accuracy! and BRS sells it now :)
* Hey man, just a wild guess. but, if you have aluminum in water and its changing color. could it be anodizing ? maybe check for electric current.
I hear people could stick their tongue in the water to check for this........
🤣🤣🤣👍🏻
Is there an update video?
I'd say it's your zero phosphates being your issue, lps like phosphates. I'm Going through the same with my hammers, I've been dosing phosphates for 2 weeks now every day trying to get to 0.1.
bearded-flipflop I’d agree
5ppm NO3 and .03-.05 PO4 is optimal in my tank
@@reefhomiejon9079 currently I'm 5-10 no3 and around 0.03. My lps were happy before but I never tested phosphates then so I dont know what level the were happy at. Sods law I only started testing when my sps were struggling.
My sps always do pretty good. 2 sps don’t like high phosphates but the rest don’t seem to care. My NITRATE was undetectable and my zoas started melting away. So now I try to keep that range to keep everybody happy
I had zero P04 for a while. Then, I'd get cyano outbreaks, gha, and my lps (especially my frogspawn) was always retracted. Now my P04 is at 0.08 and all of my corals have never looked better. P04 gets overlooked a lot.
@@Mr.McGurt I must agree my frogspawn look terrible, they are all retracted. I've even moved 1 to my other tank in the hope I can keep 1 alive.
I dropped salt creep into my tank by accident and it dropped onto my frogspawn melting it like a hot knife through butter so bad times. With a tank that size doing cup icp test seems like a waste of time as a large water change is easy and would make the test worthless or is that just me being negative soz
So what was it.... no update?
Did you figure out the answer?
one of my frogspawn branch suddenly not open, but the other still open wide. do you know why it happend?
low ALK always made my frogspawn mad they liked it around 9.5dkh in my tank
How do you have a ato On that tank and which one are you using. Could u please go over it and show how you have it hooked up please
can share the ICP result? is it really because the aqua knight bracket releasing metal to the water?
I think you should move the light to the other side of the tank a little bit and lower the flow on the frogspawn in my experience frogspawn seams to do much better in lower light and flow areas
Love the hickey. Great addition. 👍
I ALWAYS tell newcomers to the hobby who wanna mix to 1.026 to mix to .025 or .024 instead because it leaves that much more room for error when your salinity ends up raising. Good catch, man. Hanna products can be finnicky.
I would slowly raise Kh to 8dkh and change the units on the Hanna salinity tester to ppt. I think it gives you a more precise reading with ppt. Isn't zero phosphates an issue with softies n lps? I don't know, but I've always heard they prefer to have something.
It’s most likely that aluminum , it’s deteriorating into the water ! The salt water is just helping it break down even faster
I'm scratching my head, really look forward to the ICP. I also have some polyfilter on the shelf and will likely throw some into the HOB as well just in case.
I spy those logitech Z2300 speakers on your desk. Those were the best speakers logitech ever created. Hopefully the ICP test comes back and gives you a better idea of whats going on so it can be fixed!
What happened in the end? What was it?
Im torn on whether if i wanna keep running gfo and carbon or switch to a diy cheato reactor. I just got back into the hobby after almost 10 years and been trying to get caught up on everything.
Run a slice of poly filter. It will pull metals.
Alice Holbert true statement. The most underrated material in this hobby is polyfilter
Buddy i always calibrate my tools with rodi water it might be off by a hair but that hair its off by is not gonna kill anything ...good luck
Did you ever figure out the problem?
Let us no because mind did the same thing,never could figure out why!,
Do a 100 percent water change a couple times. It'll fix anything with parameters that are off and reset parameters.
The refractometer is the only accurate tool you have to measure the salt content, the other two are making calculations of the salinity based another measurement tracked against a conversion table (even the float hydrometer).
6.5 dKh is pretty low. I personally like my No3 a little higher (I like the 10-20 region especially for LPS) Po4 at 0 on the ULR Hanna is not great and is in the dino area...... what about Ca and Mg?
I had my frogspawn mad and than I noticed red flatworms pulled a ton off of it and a day later the frogspawn was back to its normal self. They were hard to spot and pulled maybe 20-30 off the flesh.
My bet is metal in tank from light.
Try using Sl Aquas activated carbon. Each bag lasts 3-4 months. If im not mistaken its 20g carbon per 100L of water. Two of my lfs recommended it to me.
What filter do you use while filming your fish tank?
I have the same light and the black coating on the mount came off within a few weeks so idk if the protective coating is doing its job.
Do you feel that it has affected your corals?
Inappropriate Reefer I really don’t know. I have 2 on a 40 gallon so it’s a bit more diluted than your tank. I can’t say I’ve seen any troubles with corals from it so far, and I’ve had it for about 6 months.
Who knew that the insane clown posse tests water
Always measure PPT because it is not affected by temperature. The water could be 60 or 90 and the measurement will be the same! That is why I always measure by PPT and not SG.
Rinsing test vials in the tank is not good practice.
Hanna checkers are notorious for reading .001 to .002 off
Is there a local reef club you can join? I am being serious, because it may help with things. You work so hard on the tank, yet so many things go awry. Good luck and sorry that happened.
Not sure it makes any difference if SG goes between 1024 and 10265 (usually the value on the calibration fluids). PPT from 30-36 probably also makes no differrnce.
In the middle in the front the small coral is too close to the hammer hammer sting other Corals including themselves do you have a chain reaction of a hammer coral stinging each other because one coral of a different species is too close to The hammer can get along with other hammers but not other varieties of Coral Besides toadstools
how often do you change the water in the 10G tank?
I'd be interested in knowing how your ICP test compares to your Hanna 774 for phosphate. I have heard and suspect that mine reads really high. I've seen posts where people would think their phosphates were as high as .05-.1, when an ICP test showed it near 0.
For salinity, you can't go wrong with the IO swing arm. I've always mixed a standard 35ppt solution to compare against and never had it fail me. I have a Milwaukee digital and handheld refractometer too, I don't trust either of them.
I done the same thing my ato line was to far in aio sump everytime I put my apex on feed mode the water would rise over my ato line and back siphon back in the 5gallon bucket happen so when I turn everything back on the sump runs dry the ato kicks on and all that water and kalk back in the tank smh live and learn the simple things 🙌🏾🙌🏾
I run mine at 1.024 and 76 deg corals seem to be doing much better now. Lower your water level abit so its not near the bracket
Do you do bubble scrubbing
Shouldn't you have rinsed the carbon with rodi water instead of tap water?
You know...
Great content like always I just have a question I have 4 ppm nitrates and my phosphates are at 0.037 using Hanna Phosphorus ULR it’s that to high for phosphates
Don’t ask him, he’s not got a clue. 💭🤔
That’s a good value. You don’t want zero. It will cause nasty issues like the Cyano in his tank. Keep it under .1 tho in a young tank
Can we get a new mochi?
No hateful comments just trying to help out a fellow Reefer
Hi I think the reason why your coral is pissed off is because you keep putting random dirty stuff in your tank like all the plastic packages, bottles, including your own hands.
Hope this gets figured out man! Fingers crossed.
Too much gfo lowering po4 to non detectable levels will hurt your corals eventually... i have done this.. raising the po4 to detectable level is a good idea but do not expect an immediate rebound in any case.
Thanks, did your frogspawn look somewhat similar to how mine looks? Stubby?
Inappropriate Reefer it was a hammer coral and also I had some sps bleach as a result. I sent in a triton test and one of the possible causes for the results said possibly too much gfo.
Don’t blindly trust those electronics. Hanna handheld salinity checkers are crap at the time of this writing. Their base unit which is much more expensive, is better than even Milwaukee. It is very good, but still, nothing better than the prism handheld refractometer. The VEEGEE refractometer is the best for stability and is pro quality. The cheaper ones available everywhere drift too much. Use your handheld prism refractometer and calibrate it with 1.026 solution of natural seawater such as ‘accurasea’ solution, calibrate if needed, and test and it is what is correct.
haha that ato problem happened to me a fewer times bc I messed with where I put my heater in my all in one tank and there was less blockage so the water level went down a ton so it kept pumping water into the display so it almost overflowed but it sucked the water to the rodi bucket thew the hose:/
Love the videos
Mine is 0.027 dkh14. 5 calc 500 mag 1400 forget digital get a deep six and a refractometer and use reef pro salt with hi kh mag and calc buffed and stick to same salt... salinity 0.025 to 0.028 won't affect corals its the rest of the stuff kh and mag and calcium that matters
O po4 and low alk is not good. Euphyllia go fat on po4 over 0.03. Btw recfractometer is the way to go always. For metal contaminants I always use GFO as it is one of my methods of po4 control
Interesting, Alk-wise I'll slowly raise it to around 7-ish since that's around where the salt mixes at... I plan to pull the GFO and see if things slowly improve. Afraid to do too much at once but hopefully this is the right direction.
@@InappropriateReefer if you check my tank page or instagram you will notice that I always have Po4 0.03 to 0.10 and my No3 2-10 and my LPS are fat and happy
instagram.com/p/B8ZuliwJKxN/?igshid=nctcnozjpmzx
facebook.com/ReefLaDeCasa/
following this might be one of the reasons my anemone and gsp not happy
Will report back!
@@InappropriateReefer What happened to the report lol
0ppm of either NO3 and PO4 usually isn't good. Low Nutrients with High Alk has caused RTN for SPS IME.
My tank is only at .025 and the ocean is .026 and a half how your 1.026???
i mean, lighting changed, right? i feel like its pretty much gotta be lighting...
Hmm, have not changed anything with the light, and I don't think LED's spectrum changes overtime like T5s... 🤔
@@InappropriateReefer that's the same fixture on the tank that was on the other tank before? If you have a par reading you could see what's it's working with? Hope they come back. Nothing like a fully open frogspawn!!
If you have one watch, you know the time. If you have two watches, you're not sure.
BRS’ rox 8 carbon is great too.
dKH at 6.5 and you think that fine? WEIRD!
When your salinity is low just top off with saltwater.
Put plastic wrap over the metal bracket for now. Although I don’t think that’s the issue
phosphate being 0 might be an issue
Remember the salt you used , didt you say it may mess with certain electronic test kits ? 🤔 #justanidea
Separate different species of coral beside the hammers lower your flow just a hair the hammer should stretch out
When u need to rise salinity, turn off your ato and it will increase by approx 0.001 daily thanks to evaporation. Too bad you make so many mistakes, not properly mixing salt (in a cup)? letting creeps burn your corals after adding... i guess the name of the channel is spot on
Guilty. Sometimes I don't think.
I had high aluminum in my tank. Triton recommends using Rowaphos to remove it. Try running that for a bit instead of GFO.
Isn't rowaphos GFO?
@@albertogutierrez512 It is, and other stuff that removes metal and I think silicates. that's why I said instead of GFO because then you'd be running 2 different forms of GFO.
depends on FLOW how puffy they get more flow less puffy less flow .more puffy less flow
For my refractometer I just drop some RODI water, adjust the reading to 0 with the screw driver in the box, and then try the tank water.
Problem with that is you're calibrating it way outside of its required use case, so may not be accurate at the much higher ranges.
Same here room temperature RO/DI👍
@@MakerofThingss "calibrating way outside its use case". I'm lost bro, what are you talking about? This is what I do 6 months or so to ensure my readings are on point. Are you saying that ain't accurate?
6.5pH seems low brother...👊👍😎
Plz don't kill the epic frogspawn.
Re: your salinity testing. Interesting. I'm a retired biomedical engineer. When calibrating CO2 incubators and anaerobic chambers, I'd never, ever use an electronic measuring device. I used a 'Fyrite' device which used a red liquid and the principal of gas absorbtion and the STP law to indicate CO2 level. It's an old-school testing apparatus for checking furnace combustion efficiency. I also maintained refractometers made by American Optical, which were used to check urine specific gravity in newborns. They were pretty reliable in terms of calibration accuracy long-term. In terms of reliability and maybe even trust-worthyness, I'd rate them: 1) swing arm device, 2) refractometer, and lastly, 3) Hanna checker. lol
Remove gfo corals need at least .04 phosphate and 10 nitrate.
Lots of mouths in that tank so they are doing your nutrient export at this point. Maybe cut gfo in half at first but need more than 0 phosphate
#reefsquad
That .1 isnt going to make much of a difference
When will we get a single trusted hand held tool that can give us a reading for SG,PH,Temp,Alk,Cal,PO4,and NO3 all at once with no reagent. Holy Grail of testers.
No kidding that would be handy and time saving. If would even be worth it if it was a little high priced.
Lol I could do with one of those!