My 1988 Les Paul had the Nashville bridge too. I took them out and plugged the holes with maple dowels then drilled them for the abr1 posts. It made a major difference to my ears. Made it a lot more resonant
This Faber conversion was said to enable players to avoid having to do all of that and still get the same results? I do not know how true it really is?
Everyone that has a GIbson from 2019 to present IF you are going to do this mod be extremely cautious because Gibson installed the bushings before the Nitro clear was 100% dry! What i did was use a super thin feeler gauge under the rim of the bushing to make sure no Nitro was sticking to the metal of the bushing. @3:15 you can hear the Nitro cracking and once the bushing is removed the piece of cracked nitro was stuck to the bushing.
Great Video, thanks for posting this. Tips that may help. I warmed up the lacquer with a hair dryer before using a feeler gage to make sure the lacquer isn’t sticking to the Nashville Inserts/bushings before removing them. I lightly chamfered each bushing hole to reduce the stress on the finish, I then used a Drill Press to insert/install the ABR-1 Conversion Posts. The metal used in the ABR-1 Conversion Bridge and Posts is far superior than what Gibson USA uses when manufacturing the Nashville Bridge. By far one of the best upgrades I made to my Les Paul, I highly recommend this Bridge Conversion.
@@downshift00 Yeah, If I remember correctly the Nashville bridge is made of a type of Zinc pot-metal (think exterior badging found on 1960s and 1970s automobiles). IMHO, the Faber is a better bridge in every possible way. On true ABR-1 bridge installations it is common place to install a pair of thumbwheels on each post to prevent the bridge post from leaning/collapsing. Doing so on your bridge may help by having the extra thumbwheels covering the lacquer chip-out area. Just a thought. I chipped out the first side during my installation and used the hairdryer for the second. TBH, the improvement in tone was such a surprise/improvement that I don't even care about the chip in the top now. BTW, Nice Goldtop Sir.
@@downshift00 Cool, the early 2000s were great years for the Les Paul. I built a Les Paul and had to install an ABR-1 from scratch. It was a set-neck kit, I did not make the neck or glue binding, I basically finish the build using all Gibson hardware and electronics. What I found out is that the vintage ABR-1 posts are just threaded rod, the specs call for drilling the pilot hole deep enough so that the bridge post (threaded rod) goes all the way through the maple top and anchors into the mahogany body. Given the shallow bushing studs of the Nashville bridge I can see why people preferred the original ABR-1. That kit guitar turned out to be a great all around guitar. If you ever decide to build a kit guitar there is only one brand I would recommend, Precision Guitar Kits out of Canada. The quality of these kits are every bit as nice as a Gibson USA product.
The Faber iNserts & locking bridge are by far the best improvement I've ever made to my Les Paul Custom. Rock solid - no play in the bridge = better tuning stability. Also the guitar has become more resonant, I could feel it in the neck immediatly after restringing.
Check out some videos that demonstrate the difference.....it's negligible at best. If you have to listen that close to hear a difference, it's not worth possibly damaging your guitar.
By any chance is there reasons not to do such? By tailpiece on my Gibson LP 70’s Deluxe goldtop has to be high for the strings to clear the bridge because it has a Nashville bridge. I’m assuming this would fix that and would be better sounding as well.
The "Top Wrapped TP" allows the string(s) break angle to the rear of the bridge to be similar to that of the BA from the nut to the tuners. = better balance. THINK; the path of least resistance. 1. AT THE Bridge to TP.; the strings travel over the adjustable(s), but the standard TP Break angle is acute compared to that of the BA @ the nut to tuners. Pulling DOWN and then Across and otherwise jamming and string movement fluency. And so, a bent G string as it is returning to its non bent position, will follow the path of Least Resistance. That Being; Towards the Nut. Often causing G string movement in the nut towards the bridge? pitching the string up.
idk why everyone goes through so much trouble, the nashville bridge is more solid, rings more true, and has less play in the saddles. everything about it is a better bridge.
@@MrRoundwound -I’ve owned many Gibsons including Custom Shop and double necks and anything that didn’t have the ABR-1 bridges I installed myself. Never worried about re-sale, just sound quality. I’ve installed them for others and bridges I cut the saddles on as well. I guess it’s all personal? Anyway, have a great year!
I couldn’t care less about resale if it’s a guitar I love and plan to keep. I mean, I’m not gunna go sawing corners off the thing but, it’s a guitar. It’s meant to be played and enjoyed. Play em, beat the shit out of em, and have fun. There’s more important things to worry about.
My 1988 Les Paul had the Nashville bridge too. I took them out and plugged the holes with maple dowels then drilled them for the abr1 posts. It made a major difference to my ears. Made it a lot more resonant
This Faber conversion was said to enable players to avoid having to do all of that and still get the same results?
I do not know how true it really is?
Everyone that has a GIbson from 2019 to present IF you are going to do this mod be extremely cautious because Gibson installed the bushings before the Nitro clear was 100% dry! What i did was use a super thin feeler gauge under the rim of the bushing to make sure no Nitro was sticking to the metal of the bushing. @3:15 you can hear the Nitro cracking and once the bushing is removed the piece of cracked nitro was stuck to the bushing.
Got to love those new paint chips
Great Video, thanks for posting this.
Tips that may help.
I warmed up the lacquer with a hair dryer before using a feeler gage to make sure the lacquer isn’t sticking to the Nashville Inserts/bushings before removing them.
I lightly chamfered each bushing hole to reduce the stress on the finish, I then used a Drill Press to insert/install the ABR-1 Conversion Posts.
The metal used in the ABR-1 Conversion Bridge and Posts is far superior than what Gibson USA uses when manufacturing the Nashville Bridge.
By far one of the best upgrades I made to my Les Paul, I highly recommend this Bridge Conversion.
Thanks for the tip. I wish I would have thought about the hair dryer before doing it lol. Definitely prefer this bridge over the Nashville one.
@@downshift00 Yeah, If I remember correctly the Nashville bridge is made of a type of Zinc pot-metal (think exterior badging found on 1960s and 1970s automobiles). IMHO, the Faber is a better bridge in every possible way.
On true ABR-1 bridge installations it is common place to install a pair of thumbwheels on each post to prevent the bridge post from leaning/collapsing.
Doing so on your bridge may help by having the extra thumbwheels covering the lacquer chip-out area. Just a thought.
I chipped out the first side during my installation and used the hairdryer for the second. TBH, the improvement in tone was such a surprise/improvement that I don't even care about the chip in the top now.
BTW, Nice Goldtop Sir.
@@hkguitar1984 ya my 2003 classic has a true ABR1 with posts and thumbwheel.
@@downshift00 Cool, the early 2000s were great years for the Les Paul.
I built a Les Paul and had to install an ABR-1 from scratch. It was a set-neck kit, I did not make the neck or glue binding, I basically finish the build using all Gibson hardware and electronics.
What I found out is that the vintage ABR-1 posts are just threaded rod, the specs call for drilling the pilot hole deep enough so that the bridge post (threaded rod) goes all the way through the maple top and anchors into the mahogany body. Given the shallow bushing studs of the Nashville bridge I can see why people preferred the original ABR-1. That kit guitar turned out to be a great all around guitar. If you ever decide to build a kit guitar there is only one brand I would recommend, Precision Guitar Kits out of Canada. The quality of these kits are every bit as nice as a Gibson USA product.
The Faber iNserts & locking bridge are by far the best improvement I've ever made to my Les Paul Custom. Rock solid - no play in the bridge = better tuning stability. Also the guitar has become more resonant, I could feel it in the neck immediatly after restringing.
Ya i agree, it makes a noticeable difference.
The issue with these are, if you ever want to go back to the original bridge, how do you get the Faber posts out without destroying the threads?
Great job,hey I am interested in buying the bridge ,posts and bushings if you want to sell them?
What benefits do you feel from the top wrap ??
A little more slinky loose feel, can almost use 10s and feel close to 9s.
I have a 1996 Les Paul with a Nashville bridge which is already very resonant. I'm wondering how much of a difference it made to your guitar ?
Check out some videos that demonstrate the difference.....it's negligible at best. If you have to listen that close to hear a difference, it's not worth possibly damaging your guitar.
By any chance is there reasons not to do such? By tailpiece on my Gibson LP 70’s Deluxe goldtop has to be high for the strings to clear the bridge because it has a Nashville bridge. I’m assuming this would fix that and would be better sounding as well.
Right, since the Nashville Bridge is wider it hits the strings if the tailpiece not high. I also just like the look of the abr1 vs Nashville.
Wait....did you reuse the Nashville bridge on the ABR-1 posts?
No, I replaced the Nashville posts and bridge with the faber units.
The "Top Wrapped TP" allows the string(s) break angle to the rear of the bridge to be similar to that of the BA from the nut to the tuners. = better balance.
THINK; the path of least resistance.
1. AT THE Bridge to TP.; the strings travel over the adjustable(s), but the standard TP Break angle is acute compared to that of the BA @ the nut to tuners.
Pulling DOWN and then Across and otherwise jamming and string movement fluency.
And so, a bent G string as it is returning to its non bent position, will follow the path of Least Resistance.
That Being; Towards the Nut.
Often causing G string movement in the nut towards the bridge?
pitching the string up.
If ain't broke don't fix it!!
1. It is a wing nut.
2. It pulls it out.
Why???l kept my 1992 Standard original as it was when l bought Her new 31 years ago...l think She's perfect as She was born🎸❤️
Lol I know I know. I'm not a huge fan of plain tops. I bought it new in 2003. Figured id try it. It makes the plain top more interesting to look at 😂.
idk why everyone goes through so much trouble, the nashville bridge is more solid, rings more true, and has less play in the saddles. everything about it is a better bridge.
But, but, but… vintage!
The bridge is still sloppy
Buyer beware. These posts do not fit Gibson ABR 1 or Nashville bridges.
Yes faber is 4mm original bridge is 6/32"
It would be better if your right had wasn't blocking the view of the camera most of the time so we could see exactly the procedure.
Wish they never made these stupid nashville things. Now I'm meant to buy a custom shop just for a different bridge selection. What a joke
Lol totally agree. Funny, I have an Edwards lp that comes with an ABR with the pole screwed directly into the wood like the old school gibbys.
That's a sloppy job! You don't need a hammer to press these inserts but a press
Why did you do this to this beautiful guitar? This ruined it for resale
Why would you worry about re-sale value of a guitar that sounds better?
I don’t know,man. My guitars,mostly Gibson and fender,I have kept stock. You can just add pedals,no?
@@MrRoundwound -I’ve owned many Gibsons including Custom Shop and double necks and anything that didn’t have the ABR-1 bridges I installed myself. Never worried about re-sale, just sound quality. I’ve installed them for others and bridges I cut the saddles on as well. I guess it’s all personal? Anyway, have a great year!
I couldn’t care less about resale if it’s a guitar I love and plan to keep. I mean, I’m not gunna go sawing corners off the thing but, it’s a guitar. It’s meant to be played and enjoyed. Play em, beat the shit out of em, and have fun. There’s more important things to worry about.
@@MrRoundwound No, you can't just add pedals. Pedals don't affect instrument playability.