I did unlock my Duron Applebred to full 256 kB of cache. Not to mention, that CPU could run on 2.6 GHz, from original 1.6 GHz (2.8 was slightly unstable, and I kept it on 2.4 to sync with RAM). It's insane what good silicon could do back then. Edit: Abit NF7 and NF7-S motherboards had custom BIOS written by some madman, which unlocked crazy FSBs like 400 MHz (no, not 200x2, actual 400 with 2:1 lock with DDR). It required a lot of fiddling, but it was perfectly possible to run 2.4 GHz on x6 multiplier.
8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1
They sure left more option on the table back then. Nowadays they learned to lock it down and push it to the max out of the box more or less. My DFI Lanparty NF2 ultra I got up to 500Mhz DDR and bus so 2x250, but it has PCI/AGP issues early on past 400Mhz bus for what ever reason, (no amount of bios fiddling solves i). Its actually prime95 and memtest86+ stable at 24h+ at 500Mhz fsbram (1:1), its just AGP/PCI that gets corrupted on that board randomly past the official 400Mhz fsb, bit annoying. The board was damaged when I got it so did some repairs. It was used for LN2 OC, from what I was told there where 4 boards but two died and I got one of the survivors (was most likely damaged in storage/transport), someone else took and repaired the second surviving board.
those cpus were ok cpus for the time. super easy to crack the CPU die when putting on the heatsink. i cant tell you how many pcs i troubleshooted with these style amds. i preferred intel during this period because the die was not exposed so any PC i build for a friend family or customer was an intel
yep, i remember getting a copper shim for mine to help protect it under mounting pressure. funny how the tables have turned, now you need to delid intel CPU for thermals
Wow, a blast of nostalgia! I used automotive rear window defogger repair kit to unlock a couple of these back in the day. I might still have the CPUs somewhere.
Loved my duron an later sempron..the later durons an sempron was basically cut down Barton cores .. Hack the cache back an if you didn't have voltage controls on mobo bios or as with later cpus that had multi locked down you could bridge pins under the CPU to force a voltage...I had 2.50v😮 my 1.6 was running at 2.7ghz 2.6 daily with a 6600gt an was looking back my favourite machine...desoldered a pci slot to fit my franken gpu cooler made from an old sktA cpu cooler. Both GPU an cpu didn't go over 60deg an both clocked to the very limits...i even searched high an low for special Samsung 500mhz ddr1 ram on brainpower PCBs...goodtimes. but that was a surprising fast but cheap as chips pc.. probably spent less than 200 quid..an gpu was 110..mobo 35. Cpu 30 odd an rest on ram. It left my mates more expensive stuff standing an got them into overclocking. You dont get the bang for buck like you used too
Ah, used to do this on my two systems that had the Athlon XP 2500+ (Barton) to the same as the Athlon XP 3200+ (Barton), basically going from 1.8Ghz to 2.2Ghz just by using a 2B pencil.
That solder ball technique might come in handy in other scenarios, too. My Duron 700 also ran at 9x100 in an A7V just fine with a little increase in voltage. It was an absolute bargain and lasted me for another good year. Too bad the A7V couldn't do 133.
Use an HB pencil lead for the brown ceramic cpu bridges. Use an automobile rear window defogger repair kit for the green cpu bridges. If you need to cut bridges, a sharp new exacto blade will nick a gap nicely.
8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1
Cutting might be useful to make a low voltage low multi version of a normal XP to make it more like a Geode NX and make i t more plug and play with mobos with limited bios settings. Im considering it, would work well with weak 5V rail PSU's.
if you want to bridge a gap on a pcb with solder it is much easier to do with a drop of solder paste for smd, the one containing solder and just making few blobs and heating them with hot air much less fiddly and more precise method
8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1
Solder past would probably work, I considered it for the pads on the Athlon XP. Simple reason I did not try it is that I had none. maybe I try past next time.
@ when i short jumper resistors on laptop motherboards it is my prefered way of doiing it because i don't have to check if the solder jumped the connection from soldering iron to both soldering spots. because it likes to prefere not to jump the gap and stick to soldering iron instead
The (ceramic+Palamino) Athlon XP 1800+ that came with a recent motherboard purchase has very small wires soldered across the L1 bridges. Doesn't work though as unlike my pencil modded Duron 1000 I can't change the multiplier. Only pencil modded them to run them with a higher FSB, though multipliers don't go low enough for 400MHz with the Duron 1000 unfortunately and I haven't tested the Duron 1300 (seen as an Athlon XP 1500+ stock) in a board that allows overclocking yet.
I also had better clocking results using clockgen in windows to gain another 2 300mhz over a bios overclock... Goes against the grain as bios is usually better. Good little tool clockgen
I had a Duron 1.3Ghz back then, I tried to bridge but didn't work (with pencil), yet, with the fsb overclock it didn't go over 1350Mhz anyways...
8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1
I did get a free Duron 1300 some time ago. It would be fun to see 200Mhz fsb VS 400Mhz on it. I did get this crap Duron 700 up to 333Mhz fsb later of camera with no problems using multiplier 5x.
What about the Sempron Line of Socket A,was those worth soldering? I have a Sempron 2800+ which still works fine,No plan to mess with it but was curious. :)
8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1
I dont have any Semprons. But they are basically just Athlon XP with a different name and PR rating relative to Celerons instead of Pentium 4 so just as good of a cpu as the XP version. The problem is that sempron came out in 2004 and like I stated in the video AMD locked down most CPU's in 2003 so the L1 is not cut because its not connected internally. Other bridges are probably intact and might be worth connecting depending on what you want to do. There is also the Geode NX series, basicly Athlon XP-M at very low voltag, like 1.1V and down to 850Mhz and 6W I think. I might look in to cutting bridges and try and make a low clock low voltage Athlon XP later, could be fun project.
i wonder where you get the information about what pad is doing what. also i had a amd athlon in a k7 mainbord socket a i did nothing to it the only thing i did was setting the front side bus from 100 to 133mhz so i got the full 1400mhz i did tried go higher but usb acting weird so i did go back to the 133 but eventually i got it stable on 136 or 138 i dont remember right i had this pc back in 2000 to 2007. i had used it longer but the cpu burned out because the cooler mount broke of from the socket.
It's probably a Barton core athlon with less cache. Mine was a good overclocker 2,6 2.7ghz fixed the cache an it was a really good chip. I've never had another CPU that clocked as far an virtually doubled it's performance. Think it's hardware labs that have a interactive guide to mod these chips. Either with the bridges or another way by using small wires under the CPU in the pin sockets. You will be surprised how far these can be pushed
You do not have to solder those bridges, back in the days it was called pencil mode for a reason.
8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1
You obviously did not watch the video. Pencil mod is unreliable, like I sad in the video. This is the better way of doing it because its reliable and will last. It will also stand up to IPA and and cleaning. This will last the lifetime of the cpu basically. But please be stuck in the old ways. I prefer to do things better today when I have more knowledge and the tools. Its pretty funny how many people seems to have missed the howl point of this video.
i killed one of those back in the day... the heatsink wasn't seated correctly and it took 3 seconds of power to blow it up :D i switched to intel after that incident.@
We used pencil with the ceramic package and silver paint with the organic package… the pencil method on my thunderbird 900 lasted like 15 years 😂
Some people are lucky I guess 😆
I remember redoing the silver on my Athlon XP 1800+ and later 2400+ at least once r twice.
@ yeah i guess so 😜
Loving your channel btw, keep up the good work! 👍
Ah yes, fond memories. I also used a pencil on my 1ghz Thunderbird. It lasted around 10 years at 1.4ghz but eventually the CPU gave up entirely.
Works on Both. Good Hb pencils an tape over. Never had a problem.
I did unlock my Duron Applebred to full 256 kB of cache. Not to mention, that CPU could run on 2.6 GHz, from original 1.6 GHz (2.8 was slightly unstable, and I kept it on 2.4 to sync with RAM). It's insane what good silicon could do back then.
Edit: Abit NF7 and NF7-S motherboards had custom BIOS written by some madman, which unlocked crazy FSBs like 400 MHz (no, not 200x2, actual 400 with 2:1 lock with DDR). It required a lot of fiddling, but it was perfectly possible to run 2.4 GHz on x6 multiplier.
They sure left more option on the table back then.
Nowadays they learned to lock it down and push it to the max out of the box more or less.
My DFI Lanparty NF2 ultra I got up to 500Mhz DDR and bus so 2x250, but it has PCI/AGP issues early on past 400Mhz bus for what ever reason, (no amount of bios fiddling solves i).
Its actually prime95 and memtest86+ stable at 24h+ at 500Mhz fsbram (1:1), its just AGP/PCI that gets corrupted on that board randomly past the official 400Mhz fsb, bit annoying.
The board was damaged when I got it so did some repairs. It was used for LN2 OC, from what I was told there where 4 boards but two died and I got one of the survivors (was most likely damaged in storage/transport), someone else took and repaired the second surviving board.
2.6?! I couldn't even do that with my Athlon 1800+ (this was the overclockers preferred chip back in the day)
Sure it wasn't the Taipan D27 BIOS for them NF7-S? I have one with that BIOS and had no idea the FSB can go that astronomic.
those cpus were ok cpus for the time. super easy to crack the CPU die when putting on the heatsink. i cant tell you how many pcs i troubleshooted with these style amds. i preferred intel during this period because the die was not exposed so any PC i build for a friend family or customer was an intel
yep, i remember getting a copper shim for mine to help protect it under mounting pressure. funny how the tables have turned, now you need to delid intel CPU for thermals
Wow, a blast of nostalgia! I used automotive rear window defogger repair kit to unlock a couple of these back in the day.
I might still have the CPUs somewhere.
yes! that's what i used too. felt so clever as a teenager
Loved my duron an later sempron..the later durons an sempron was basically cut down Barton cores .. Hack the cache back an if you didn't have voltage controls on mobo bios or as with later cpus that had multi locked down you could bridge pins under the CPU to force a voltage...I had 2.50v😮 my 1.6 was running at 2.7ghz 2.6 daily with a 6600gt an was looking back my favourite machine...desoldered a pci slot to fit my franken gpu cooler made from an old sktA cpu cooler. Both GPU an cpu didn't go over 60deg an both clocked to the very limits...i even searched high an low for special Samsung 500mhz ddr1 ram on brainpower PCBs...goodtimes. but that was a surprising fast but cheap as chips pc.. probably spent less than 200 quid..an gpu was 110..mobo 35. Cpu 30 odd an rest on ram. It left my mates more expensive stuff standing an got them into overclocking. You dont get the bang for buck like you used too
Ah, used to do this on my two systems that had the Athlon XP 2500+ (Barton) to the same as the Athlon XP 3200+ (Barton), basically going from 1.8Ghz to 2.2Ghz just by using a 2B pencil.
always loved the look of those old athlon xp cpu's brings back found memorys.
In 2002 i sucessfully turned an Athlon XP to an MP for Dual-Socket use.
Even by closing a brigde with electrica silverpaint.
Good old times...
Mounting the cooler on these always stressed me out. We really have it good these days.
Wow, I had a thunderbird 1200 back in the day and was pretty interested in overclocking, but I never knew about any of this
did many of these back in the day. trick was to fill the holes with superglue, then use silver paint to connect bridges
blast of nostalgia! is a good word for this giving me flash backs to my old duron system i had when i was in high school
I remember using the pencil to unlock my T-Bread B 1700+ and it was an OC beast at the time.
That solder ball technique might come in handy in other scenarios, too. My Duron 700 also ran at 9x100 in an A7V just fine with a little increase in voltage. It was an absolute bargain and lasted me for another good year. Too bad the A7V couldn't do 133.
Use an HB pencil lead for the brown ceramic cpu bridges.
Use an automobile rear window defogger repair kit for the green cpu bridges.
If you need to cut bridges, a sharp new exacto blade will nick a gap nicely.
Cutting might be useful to make a low voltage low multi version of a normal XP to make it more like a Geode NX and make i t more plug and play with mobos with limited bios settings.
Im considering it, would work well with weak 5V rail PSU's.
You remembered my school days.
if you want to bridge a gap on a pcb with solder it is much easier to do with a drop of solder paste for smd, the one containing solder and just making few blobs and heating them with hot air
much less fiddly and more precise method
Solder past would probably work, I considered it for the pads on the Athlon XP. Simple reason I did not try it is that I had none.
maybe I try past next time.
@ when i short jumper resistors on laptop motherboards it is my prefered way of doiing it because i don't have to check if the solder jumped the connection from soldering iron to both soldering spots. because it likes to prefere not to jump the gap and stick to soldering iron instead
The (ceramic+Palamino) Athlon XP 1800+ that came with a recent motherboard purchase has very small wires soldered across the L1 bridges. Doesn't work though as unlike my pencil modded Duron 1000 I can't change the multiplier.
Only pencil modded them to run them with a higher FSB, though multipliers don't go low enough for 400MHz with the Duron 1000 unfortunately and I haven't tested the Duron 1300 (seen as an Athlon XP 1500+ stock) in a board that allows overclocking yet.
I also had better clocking results using clockgen in windows to gain another 2 300mhz over a bios overclock... Goes against the grain as bios is usually better. Good little tool clockgen
awesome! if would have done back then when i ran those
Oh Athlon XP! My first PC.
Solder paste might work with the sunk pads
Yes its probably a better option to tin the pads, just did not have any.
I had a Duron 1.3Ghz back then, I tried to bridge but didn't work (with pencil), yet, with the fsb overclock it didn't go over 1350Mhz anyways...
I did get a free Duron 1300 some time ago.
It would be fun to see 200Mhz fsb VS 400Mhz on it. I did get this crap Duron 700 up to 333Mhz fsb later of camera with no problems using multiplier 5x.
What about the Sempron Line of Socket A,was those worth soldering? I have a Sempron 2800+ which still works fine,No plan to mess with it but was curious. :)
I dont have any Semprons. But they are basically just Athlon XP with a different name and PR rating relative to Celerons instead of Pentium 4 so just as good of a cpu as the XP version.
The problem is that sempron came out in 2004 and like I stated in the video AMD locked down most CPU's in 2003 so the L1 is not cut because its not connected internally.
Other bridges are probably intact and might be worth connecting depending on what you want to do.
There is also the Geode NX series, basicly Athlon XP-M at very low voltag, like 1.1V and down to 850Mhz and 6W I think.
I might look in to cutting bridges and try and make a low clock low voltage Athlon XP later, could be fun project.
@ Very interesting read thanks for explaining,Id like to see that "Low clock low voltage athlon if you ever do get to doing it :)
i wonder where you get the information about what pad is doing what. also i had a amd athlon in a k7 mainbord socket a i did nothing to it the only thing i did was setting the front side bus from 100 to 133mhz so i got the full 1400mhz i did tried go higher but usb acting weird so i did go back to the 133 but eventually i got it stable on 136 or 138 i dont remember right i had this pc back in 2000 to 2007. i had used it longer but the cpu burned out because the cooler mount broke of from the socket.
Very interesting. I recently built a system with a sempron 3000+.
It's probably a Barton core athlon with less cache. Mine was a good overclocker 2,6 2.7ghz fixed the cache an it was a really good chip. I've never had another CPU that clocked as far an virtually doubled it's performance. Think it's hardware labs that have a interactive guide to mod these chips. Either with the bridges or another way by using small wires under the CPU in the pin sockets. You will be surprised how far these can be pushed
@@foxxy46213 okay, thanks.
@@foxxy46213 the mainboard i am using has jumpers to set the multi manual. Would that work without manipulating something?
Reballing PGA CPU 😎 BTW. I wonder if SMD repair pads could be used as neat bridges.
If I recall they did sell a product like that back in the day, you just taped it on the L1 bridge.
So yea its an idea, someone has to try it I guess.
This make me happy to se the love that this old cpu geting, thank you for the great video.
I'm like what is he doing? Raising voltage to 1.75V - but then i forget those Duron's and Athlon's took 1.8V day and night.
What's surprising is that the new ones handle 1.4v.
What is it? 10ish nm vs 150+?
This is really cool!
We just used a lead pencil and shorted the connection with the pencil. It was quick and easy.
The advantage of using a pencil is if you screw up, you can just remove it and deny having done anything...
Exactly what warranty is valid after 23 years?
Also if we assume it was in the past the I think one should just own once mistakes.
My current PC memory runs 6x faster than that whole PC.
I overclocked 4 different athlones to 2.2, sorry these are not buartons. MB soltek
👏👏👌👌👍👍
That's an awful lot of work for something that can be done with a #2 pencil.
back then we used Arctic silver to bridge the contacts.
Arctic Silver is none conductive (Original to present day) so that would not work.
Used a pencil to unlock it super easy
I just used a graphic pencil to bridge the points.
You do not have to solder those bridges, back in the days it was called pencil mode for a reason.
You obviously did not watch the video. Pencil mod is unreliable, like I sad in the video.
This is the better way of doing it because its reliable and will last.
It will also stand up to IPA and and cleaning.
This will last the lifetime of the cpu basically.
But please be stuck in the old ways.
I prefer to do things better today when I have more knowledge and the tools.
Its pretty funny how many people seems to have missed the howl point of this video.
at the time we did this work with a simple pencil. There was no need for all this mess.
DÖD
ok..
DÖD is swedish for dead. Got that CPU with some loot but sadly it was core crushed so never worked.
i killed one of those back in the day... the heatsink wasn't seated correctly and it took 3 seconds of power to blow it up :D
i switched to intel after that incident.@
Use a pencil!!
карандаш тспользуй
no
✨⚡⌨️🖱️🎮⚡✨
Also 4 the algorithm.