Hey guys, here's some quick tips on G10 ownership: 1. Make sure your EGR is in good condition, and isn't clogged up. If it does, the cylinders will run too hot, and burn through exhaust valves. 2. Make sure all the sensors are good. If your temperature sensor is bad, your fan won't turn on, if your 02 sensor is bad, you'll have no power, etc. I've found both of those out the hard way. 3. They're pretty strong and reliable, unless they need to be. As a daily, it'll be fine and last around 300,000 miles before it needs a rebuild (Valves are going to burn up unless you get stainless). If you go over the 688 lb load rating (may be different on yours), you can blow a head gasket. No joke. Also, the load rating is passengers + cargo. So you can't have 4 big guys taking a ride in them. 4. This is less engine related, but watch for rust. It can be anything from a little surface rust, to also making the exhaust come off. Just be sure to get it fully check out. 5. Just don't thrash it. There's not many of these things left. They're cool little cars, and great on gas. So have fun with it, and good luck.
I love my Geo. It's basically a street legal gokart and it was $600. The same cost as a decent gokart! Except it has air conditioning, and a 5 speed, and rear seats, and cushioning, and a radio, and.... Definitly better than a gokart.
I don't think the EGR is as big of a deal as everyone thinks. The earlier ones didn't have them at all. I removed mine many moons ago with no ill effects. DO NOT LUG the engine. is probably the biggest thing. Pay close attention to the ignition timing I advanced it slightly. Make sure your timing belt is in good shape and that it was installed correctly. It is possible to install it off by one tooth and assume it is running fine. I don't have problems many attribute to the EGR system.
I still drive a 95 geo with more than 300, 000 kms on it, Ive rebuilt it, since it's so gas effective, fill it up for less than $20 and lasts me 2 weeks on my daily commute. It does have a temper tho and u wanna treat it like a lady, but it has never stranded me on the road, even when I blew a cilinder. I love the car, even if my friends pull jokes on me for it.
I would drop the engine all together out of the car. Then take the crank out and have it polished and paired with new rod bearings. Or even better, have the block cleaned out in addition to the crank polishing/rod bearings at a machine shop. It's only a 3 cyl so it shouldn't be as expensive like a V8 as far as rebuilding an engine goes. It would be a unique car to have in good running shape, but if you just want to flip it for market rate then it would be a tough proposition to rebuild the engine. It is a very unique car that will become even more rare as time goes on, so it might be worth saving
@@dmcnamara9859 The bearing material/sludge in the oil galleries will cause the issue to return if you were do that. It's much less work to do it right the first time, imo.
The TramSquad Bearing material (aluminum,bronze,copper) always ends-up in the pan (the chunks)..................what little bits find their way through oil pump screen ends-up in oil filter. Dropping cranks is normal while leaving rest of the engine intact....procedure is even done on ships.
@@dmcnamara9859 In this case, it makes no practical sense (imo) to just drop the crank without dropping the engine with a car in this condition. It may not even be possible, even if you wanted to in this configuration. Its much better to do this once the right way than to end up possibly doing this twice because of blocked oil galleries. If this engine was spotless internally, then doing what you said wouldn't be unreasonable but this engine is clearly needing a proper bottom end overhaul.
The TramSquad: Your starting to sound German (with your what ifs)...if that thing had "blocked oil galleries" there would be lots of valve tappet noise at the top of the engine and the oil pressure light would be on. Those Suzuki 3-4 Pot engines are simple and simple to work on....and weigh nothing. Keeping the repair low....you leave the engine in-place. Besides, oil-pressure always flows to the filter 1st., then main crank journals...which also spits oil to the rod journals....the oil pressure from crank and rod journals ends-up in the sump.....not a continuous loop like a coolant system. It was a throw-away economy car....few were ever maintained properly and would last several hundred Ks with bare minimum oil changes.
If i remember right u should be able to drop the oil pan,, find out which rod bearing is bad and u change out the bearing or change them all.. I did that one a neighbors Toyota... bearing are not that much and if the crank isn't hurt it should be fine,, just add lucus to it when you do change them...
It did not knock because it was the cylinder with ZERO compression... it was on vaycay. Pull the pan and check the crankshaft rod journal. It may still be withing spec. These Korean engines are actually pretty decent. It doesn't knock all the time... so still has some rod bearing left.
Well, the Geo Metro was definitely made in Korea in the early 1990s. Perhaps now from the huge mainland country a bit north. The old ones were so tightly machined that they ran close to overheating until they were broken in. Is that good or bad? I figure close tolerances when new kept the tolerances within range even at high mileage.
@@GrumpyUnkMillions Maybe you are confusing the Geo Metro with 1988 through 1993 Pontiac LeMans? That Pontiac LeMans was a rebadged Daewoo LeMans from South Korea. Daewoo is a South Korean car brand. The Geo Metro had nothing to do with Korea, it was actually a Japanese car made by Suzuki in Japan and then later at the CAMI plant (joint venture) in Ontario Canada. GM was already selling that car before under the name of "Chevy Sprint" and later created the new brand "Geo" specifically to sell their foreign rebadged cars instead of selling them as GM brands. The Geo Metro was a Suzuki Swift. The Geo Tracker was a Suzuki Samurai. The Geo Prizm was Toyota Corolla. The Geo Storm was an Isuzu Impulse. Every model of car sold under the GEO brand at that time were Japanese. None were Korean.
Someone mentions dropping the oil pan and changing the bearings. What the hell why not. With some fresh oil that may do the job. Won't cost much and shouldn't take that much time. Check you timing too, if off valves might be getting close to the top of the pistons.
I have had one that had 300,000+ before I sold it when the auto trans died. Now I have a 93 that I bought for $200 that I just wanted the 5 speed but she runs so good I replaced the windshield, front fenders, hood, core support (radiator survived), bumper, etc from the deer hit it took and drive the shit outa her. 285,000 miles and 46 mpg at 80 mph! My backup 96 has 275,000 miles and running strong but MPG sucks. Now I was given a red 91 convertible automatic with 3 extra engines, two extra 5 speed transmissions, one extra automatic and a new rag top....54,000 original miles. I think this proves they might have been seen as disposable when new.....but they are far from it after 30+ years!
After growing up with this car you guys the first I've seen pull the heads from the block of this car great work and content. Could be worth saving body's not bad
The common cause of the Geo Metro burning valves like that is people put the wrong weight oil in the engine the 3-cylinder Metro motor is super super picky
@@sarahlove4982 I run mine on conventional. As soon as I put that synthetic in it will leak to high heavens. For any engine though, I think synthetic will last longer between oil changes if you're lazy like me and like to let it go a thousand over the recommended. Use it if you reseal the engine. But, conventional oil has ran many car engines over the 500,000 mark. Your pick.
The Suzuki G10 is tough and will keep running with just regular oil changes and coolant flushes. Shouldn't have any problem going 350,000 miles with basic maintenance - which unfortunately this one didn't get.
The G series engines, like this 3 cylinder one with throttlebody and single injector can reach extreme fuel efficiency, 50+ MPG. There are both higher compression pistons and lower lift cams available to improve economy even further to 65 MPG with the manual gearbox. The XFI cam is the one you want for that. That is, when you got the knackered exhaust valve sorted. This is the car I always wanted to tinker with. You guys are lucky.
My neighbor owns one of the older geo metros. He said every 100,000 miles, it burns the exhaust valves. He said he pulls the head and puts all new valves in and just laps the seats with compound and he doesn't machine the seats in the head, and then he is back on the road.
Did fleet maintenance for a courier service that had 7 of those. Kept 2 reman. heads at all times in stock. Anytime one came in missing a cylinder I just changed the head without even checking anything else. The old head would have exhaust valves that looked like rotten mushrooms. Even then we would get 300k before we'd junk them.
Another great video from _Big Al Productions! Your TH-cam Certified Mechanics!_ 👍👍Look at you Al... you got yourself a cameraperson now! 🎥🎬🎧 Thanks for throwing in the old commercial-ish ending! 🤣👍😂
Feel for that tap. Put you hand on the engine in various spots to see if you can tell where it's coming from. (Wear gloves while you do, you won't want to burn yourself.) I do have a Haynes Manual for these cars, so you if need me to, I could send you guys pictures of the pages. Maybe that would help with something.
I'll bet ya $20 they didnt change the oil after the headgasket repair. Got coolant in the motor oil and WIPED the bearings out. SQUEEEEEEL!! Knokka-Knokka. Better luck with the next one guys.
@@bigalsbikeandauto I saw that. George did say he got it super hot. But I bet the oil had coolant in it and it didnt get changed before you ran it. Its hard to get it drained out fully when pulling a head.( but maybe you did). Wipes out the bearings pretty quickly. Round Scotchbrite pad residue does it too. Thanks for the vids!
AL you win some you lose some, I personally believe driving it home the way it was has caused the knock.Either sell it as is or put it back into an Auction.Cheers bro.
Awesome video! I would check out the transmission though, driving in 2nd gear at 3,000 - 4,000 RPM, on roads that have high speed limits isn't a good long term solution.
It sounds to me like you have a warped crankshaft. The knock which only gets more pronounce the hotter it gets will eventually crack the aluminum block ! The crank warped because you drove it while one cylinder wasn't firing and the off balanced, overheating motor wasn't shut down in time!
Had a simalier problem. Turn out to be the timing belt tensioner gone bad which make all that knocking noise and throw off the timing causing unsteading running. The knocking was cause by the timing idle pulley hit against the tensioner piston and loosen the timing belt. Very hard to figure out it was this.
I am sorry it did not work out. Do not feel bad. The transmission shop destroyed my 3800 V6 Series II in my 1995 Oldsmobile 98. It locked up. I have to get another 3800 V6. The Geo Metro song was great.
try the bolts under the valve cover. Had a metro back in the day was making noise like that. don't much about cars but pull off the valve cover? and one bolt was completely off. just my experience.
I started to lose interest about halfway but im glad I stuck through it because that song at the end was a huge payoff. Now I'm gonna be walking around work tomorrow singing Geeooooo Metrooooooooo
That's been royally cooked. You probably could not hear that before due to all the other horrible noises it was making before. The most sensible option might be to find another running engine in a car with a rotten shell, they must be around...
Hey Al I got a question for you regarding auction cars. I found some cars that look nice, but they have mechanic leins on them. Is that something i have to pay off if I win the auction? Or is it not. I dont know how mechanic leins work really. I appreciate any help
An easier conversion is from the Suzuki G10 engine which the Metro came with to a Suzuki G13B engine which is what came in the Suzuki Swift GTi. The G13B engine came stock with forged internals and was turbo ready from the factory.
I wouldn’t rebuild a Geo engine with presumably 200,000 miles on it. Its done its job and its over. If you want to fool with it, just keep your eyes peeled for a rusty old Metro with a decent motor for a swap ... otherwise ... chalk it up to a learning experience (you got to see the inside of a geo 3 banger) and dispose of the carcass ... and George owes you a case of beer! ...or ... Time for an LS swap!
They made a big mistake doing the top end without first knowing exactly what was wrong with the engine. For around $500 they could have ordered a low miles complete create engine directly from Japan and just swap out the whole engine.
Designed mostly by Toyota, but actually built in Fremont, CA by NUMMI, a joint venture between GM and Toyota. Fremont Assembly was GM's worst plant, so it reopened as the NUMMI plant. Toyota learned how to deal with an unionized American workforce and GM failed to learn about lean manufacturing. Prizms and Corollas were built side by side... but Corollas built at the other, wholely owned and run Toyota plant were better. The NUMMI plant is now owned by Tesla to, well, build Teslas.
buckykattnj: Geo Prism was just a different Corolla body-style that Toyota offered in Different Markets around the Globe. It was all Toyota....unfortunately assembled by those lazy slobs called the UAW.....the bullet-proof Drive-train came straight from Japan..............the rest of the car...build-quality was questionable at best, thanks to the UAW slobs.
George does the manual labor, and Big AL supervises! Awesome team work!
Hey guys, here's some quick tips on G10 ownership:
1. Make sure your EGR is in good condition, and isn't clogged up. If it does, the cylinders will run too hot, and burn through exhaust valves.
2. Make sure all the sensors are good. If your temperature sensor is bad, your fan won't turn on, if your 02 sensor is bad, you'll have no power, etc. I've found both of those out the hard way.
3. They're pretty strong and reliable, unless they need to be. As a daily, it'll be fine and last around 300,000 miles before it needs a rebuild (Valves are going to burn up unless you get stainless). If you go over the 688 lb load rating (may be different on yours), you can blow a head gasket. No joke. Also, the load rating is passengers + cargo. So you can't have 4 big guys taking a ride in them.
4. This is less engine related, but watch for rust. It can be anything from a little surface rust, to also making the exhaust come off. Just be sure to get it fully check out.
5. Just don't thrash it. There's not many of these things left. They're cool little cars, and great on gas. So have fun with it, and good luck.
I love my Geo. It's basically a street legal gokart and it was $600. The same cost as a decent gokart!
Except it has air conditioning, and a 5 speed, and rear seats, and cushioning, and a radio, and....
Definitly better than a gokart.
I don't think the EGR is as big of a deal as everyone thinks. The earlier ones didn't have them at all. I removed mine many moons ago with no ill effects. DO NOT LUG the engine. is probably the biggest thing. Pay close attention to the ignition timing I advanced it slightly. Make sure your timing belt is in good shape and that it was installed correctly. It is possible to install it off by one tooth and assume it is running fine. I don't have problems many attribute to the EGR system.
@@LymanTaiste How many miles have you put on that engine?
you must rev the engine. better to be a gear too low than a gear too high.
I dont go to 5th until im on the highway and at speed.
I still drive a 95 geo with more than 300, 000 kms on it, Ive rebuilt it, since it's so gas effective, fill it up for less than $20 and lasts me 2 weeks on my daily commute. It does have a temper tho and u wanna treat it like a lady, but it has never stranded me on the road, even when I blew a cilinder. I love the car, even if my friends pull jokes on me for it.
Nice job , now I'm going around my house singing Geo metro like some kind of lunatic 😂😂
This video was worth it just for the cartoon at the end.
th-cam.com/video/tMX1u01hJFo/w-d-xo.html
Luckily these things are easy to work on. I have the 4 banger version of this engine in my Samurai. Lifted it out by hand.
I would drop the engine all together out of the car. Then take the crank out and have it polished and paired with new rod bearings. Or even better, have the block cleaned out in addition to the crank polishing/rod bearings at a machine shop. It's only a 3 cyl so it shouldn't be as expensive like a V8 as far as rebuilding an engine goes. It would be a unique car to have in good running shape, but if you just want to flip it for market rate then it would be a tough proposition to rebuild the engine. It is a very unique car that will become even more rare as time goes on, so it might be worth saving
I agree.
@@dmcnamara9859 The bearing material/sludge in the oil galleries will cause the issue to return if you were do that. It's much less work to do it right the first time, imo.
The TramSquad
Bearing material (aluminum,bronze,copper) always ends-up in the pan (the chunks)..................what little bits find their way through oil pump screen ends-up in oil filter.
Dropping cranks is normal while leaving rest of the engine intact....procedure is even done on ships.
@@dmcnamara9859 In this case, it makes no practical sense (imo) to just drop the crank without dropping the engine with a car in this condition. It may not even be possible, even if you wanted to in this configuration. Its much better to do this once the right way than to end up possibly doing this twice because of blocked oil galleries. If this engine was spotless internally, then doing what you said wouldn't be unreasonable but this engine is clearly needing a proper bottom end overhaul.
The TramSquad:
Your starting to sound German (with your what ifs)...if that thing had "blocked oil galleries" there would be lots of valve tappet noise at the top of the engine and the oil pressure light would be on. Those Suzuki 3-4 Pot engines are simple and simple to work on....and weigh nothing. Keeping the repair low....you leave the engine in-place.
Besides, oil-pressure always flows to the filter 1st., then main crank journals...which also spits oil to the rod journals....the oil pressure from crank and rod journals ends-up in the sump.....not a continuous loop like a coolant system.
It was a throw-away economy car....few were ever maintained properly and would last several hundred Ks with bare minimum oil changes.
If i remember right u should be able to drop the oil pan,, find out which rod bearing is bad and u change out the bearing or change them all.. I did that one a neighbors Toyota... bearing are not that much and if the crank isn't hurt it should be fine,, just add lucus to it when you do change them...
Yep, drop the sump!
It did not knock because it was the cylinder with ZERO compression... it was on vaycay.
Pull the pan and check the crankshaft rod journal. It may still be withing spec. These Korean engines are actually pretty decent. It doesn't knock all the time... so still has some rod bearing left.
Korean?
Well, the Geo Metro was definitely made in Korea in the early 1990s. Perhaps now from the huge mainland country a bit north. The old ones were so tightly machined that they ran close to overheating until they were broken in. Is that good or bad? I figure close tolerances when new kept the tolerances within range even at high mileage.
@@GrumpyUnkMillions Maybe you are confusing the Geo Metro with 1988 through 1993 Pontiac LeMans? That Pontiac LeMans was a rebadged Daewoo LeMans from South Korea. Daewoo is a South Korean car brand.
The Geo Metro had nothing to do with Korea, it was actually a Japanese car made by Suzuki in Japan and then later at the CAMI plant (joint venture) in Ontario Canada. GM was already selling that car before under the name of "Chevy Sprint" and later created the new brand "Geo" specifically to sell their foreign rebadged cars instead of selling them as GM brands. The Geo Metro was a Suzuki Swift. The Geo Tracker was a Suzuki Samurai. The Geo Prizm was Toyota Corolla. The Geo Storm was an Isuzu Impulse. Every model of car sold under the GEO brand at that time were Japanese. None were Korean.
Someone mentions dropping the oil pan and changing the bearings. What the hell why not. With some fresh oil that may do the job. Won't cost much and shouldn't take that much time. Check you timing too, if off valves might be getting close to the top of the pistons.
Timing belt misalignment can cause that rod knock sound. Might've used the wrong marks on the cam sprocket. Go for the easy fix.
That metro has a good beat. Make a song out of it for your Intro lol
The Geo Metro video at the end is my new 4:20 song... I dig it and don't even own one...
I have had one that had 300,000+ before I sold it when the auto trans died. Now I have a 93 that I bought for $200 that I just wanted the 5 speed but she runs so good I replaced the windshield, front fenders, hood, core support (radiator survived), bumper, etc from the deer hit it took and drive the shit outa her. 285,000 miles and 46 mpg at 80 mph! My backup 96 has 275,000 miles and running strong but MPG sucks. Now I was given a red 91 convertible automatic with 3 extra engines, two extra 5 speed transmissions, one extra automatic and a new rag top....54,000 original miles. I think this proves they might have been seen as disposable when new.....but they are far from it after 30+ years!
What did you end up doing with the abused convertible?
After growing up with this car you guys the first I've seen pull the heads from the block of this car great work and content. Could be worth saving body's not bad
The common cause of the Geo Metro burning valves like that is people put the wrong weight oil in the engine the 3-cylinder Metro motor is super super picky
stuck out West is it better to run conventional or full synthetic on them?
@@sarahlove4982 I run mine on conventional. As soon as I put that synthetic in it will leak to high heavens.
For any engine though, I think synthetic will last longer between oil changes if you're lazy like me and like to let it go a thousand over the recommended. Use it if you reseal the engine.
But, conventional oil has ran many car engines over the 500,000 mark. Your pick.
Lol. I actually tried to Shazaam the Geo Metro song.....no dice.
th-cam.com/video/tMX1u01hJFo/w-d-xo.html
The Suzuki G10 is tough and will keep running with just regular oil changes and coolant flushes. Shouldn't have any problem going 350,000 miles with basic maintenance - which unfortunately this one didn't get.
The G series engines, like this 3 cylinder one with throttlebody and single injector can reach extreme fuel efficiency, 50+ MPG. There are both higher compression pistons and lower lift cams available to improve economy even further to 65 MPG with the manual gearbox. The XFI cam is the one you want for that. That is, when you got the knackered exhaust valve sorted. This is the car I always wanted to tinker with. You guys are lucky.
My neighbor owns one of the older geo metros. He said every 100,000 miles, it burns the exhaust valves. He said he pulls the head and puts all new valves in and just laps the seats with compound and he doesn't machine the seats in the head, and then he is back on the road.
Did fleet maintenance for a courier service that had 7 of those. Kept 2 reman. heads at all times in stock. Anytime one came in missing a cylinder I just changed the head without even checking anything else. The old head would have exhaust valves that looked like rotten mushrooms. Even then we would get 300k before we'd junk them.
Another great video from _Big Al Productions! Your TH-cam Certified Mechanics!_ 👍👍Look at you Al... you got yourself a cameraperson now! 🎥🎬🎧 Thanks for throwing in the old commercial-ish ending! 🤣👍😂
That song is stuck in my head!...Ahhhhhhh!!!
!Timing belt might be incorrect The valve Hidding de pistons Slightly!
Feel for that tap. Put you hand on the engine in various spots to see if you can tell where it's coming from. (Wear gloves while you do, you won't want to burn yourself.)
I do have a Haynes Manual for these cars, so you if need me to, I could send you guys pictures of the pages. Maybe that would help with something.
I'll bet ya $20 they didnt change the oil after the headgasket repair. Got coolant in the motor oil and WIPED the bearings out. SQUEEEEEEL!! Knokka-Knokka. Better luck with the next one guys.
Barnacle Bill wrong...the headgasket was fine, we replaced the head because of a burnt valve...
@@bigalsbikeandauto I saw that. George did say he got it super hot. But I bet the oil had coolant in it and it didnt get changed before you ran it. Its hard to get it drained out fully when pulling a head.( but maybe you did). Wipes out the bearings pretty quickly. Round Scotchbrite pad residue does it too. Thanks for the vids!
Barnacle Bill how would the oil have coolant in it if the headgasket wasn’t bad to begin with...it wouldn’t.
@@bigalsbikeandauto I usually find its from spillage more-so than the headgasket. Looks like i owe ya 20 bucks!
TH-cam certified mechanics hahaha 17:32
Throw a 3.0 V6 taurus engine into it
cody kamminga duratec not vulcan
The one that runs forever
cody kamminga both are pretty reliable but one is a lot of fun
/Ranger Motor
Nah thats dumb, a 3800 is a much better choice
AL you win some you lose some, I personally believe driving it home the way it was has caused the knock.Either sell it as is or put it back into an Auction.Cheers bro.
john vat it’s not about the money, I’ll just put another engine in if I have to.
@@bigalsbikeandauto Great reply Al😊
@@bigalsbikeandauto You aren't going to rebuild the one you have?
Awesome video! I would check out the transmission though, driving in 2nd gear at 3,000 - 4,000 RPM, on roads that have high speed limits isn't a good long term solution.
Great time to change the exhaust bolts for studs with copper nuts
The close captioning says the engine noise is "music" and "applause". 😂
The middle exhaust valve burning up is common on these motors. Just a design flaw in the engine block cooling.
BTW there was a prominent knock from the engine in the metro cam clips right before it died. Watch this video again and you'll hear it
It sounds to me like you have a warped crankshaft. The knock which only gets more pronounce the hotter it gets will eventually crack the aluminum block ! The crank warped because you drove it while one cylinder wasn't firing and the off balanced, overheating motor wasn't shut down in time!
briquetaverne look what you did @george
Love you're rocking my favorite harbor freight 3/8 drive extendable ratchet...probably one of the most used tools I own.
Michael DeNapoli one of my most used tools as well!
Maybe ill catch you at the auctions one day buddy, that is if I can get away from masabesic lake 😂
Suzuki 1.3 swap from a swift GT. I had one, 100 hp in a 1500 lb car is quite fun
Timing is off three teeth, valves are hitting the Pistons. This is the death song of the Geo.
I just picked one up and it sounds the same. Could the valves hitting cause the spark plug gap to smash down? Ny middle spark plug gap was smashed.
@@enzodunn2577 yes that is one of the signs, it is time to tear down and rebuild, also it could be a broken piston
Had a simalier problem. Turn out to be the timing belt tensioner gone bad which make all that knocking noise and throw off the timing causing unsteading running. The knocking was cause by the timing idle pulley hit against the tensioner piston and loosen the timing belt. Very hard to figure out it was this.
Sounds like the valves are catching the pistons slightly. Loving the guns dude, you’re looking well 😎😉
Non interference
dude looks like the Iceman Chuck Liddell.
Best yet, “I’m gonna push this thing in the garage and pretend we didn’t just work on it for 5 hours”
Here's a car:
91 GEO Metro - $125 (Hillsboro NH)
CatholicBoy1957 I’ve called and emailed him multiple times no response!
Need to pull the oil pan shine a flashlight from underneath and look at the piston skirts ones probably broke off
I am sorry it did not work out. Do not feel bad. The transmission shop destroyed my 3800 V6 Series II in my 1995 Oldsmobile 98. It locked up. I have to get another 3800 V6. The Geo Metro song was great.
OLDS98 sorry to hear about your engine!
That was the first time I heard Big Al sing. I'm surprised. He actually has a really great singing voice.
.
CatholicBoy1957 lol that’s not me
Big Al's Bike & Auto sounds like you 😀
Love that squeaky belt noise.
You're as someone selling a Geo Metro on Craigslist in New Hampshire it's right up your alley
Wow I think I need to read my post before posting lol but I am sure you got what I was saying lmao
9:32 Big Al's face when George says "the alternator was bad" Yeah ok.. LMAO
try the bolts under the valve cover. Had a metro back in the day was making noise like that. don't much about cars but pull off the valve cover? and one bolt was completely off. just my experience.
Sounds like a value tick not a rod knocking.
that song should have been the whole video
Bought a 98 metro for $300 runs perfect haha
Don’t give up. Save this classic convertible.
You know I won’t...I never give up on these POS cars!
U look good with the short hair
You forgot to say no homo
@@RyanRoadReaper agreed
Shouldve just ended it with a high rpm launch. Or just floor it in the garage. Lol....dude was giving ol boy some shit tho. That was funny
Did y'all ever end up doing anything with this Metro?
Long block at Rock Auto, $1243.00 exchange
How’s the metro going now?
Try running the car with belt off, could be the alternator bearings, but first change the oil
Love the cartoon at the end. Very “Adult Swim”
Put a5.0 in it Cuz!!! God save the Queen!!!
The cartoon was funny. Forget the metro, how does one make a cartoon like that lol.
Shoulda spent that $300 on yay
You didn’t hear the rod knocking because you had not had compression to the cylinder
Lmao at the Geo cartoon at the end 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Looking hench man! Great vid
I started to lose interest about halfway but im glad I stuck through it because that song at the end was a huge payoff. Now I'm gonna be walking around work tomorrow singing Geeooooo Metrooooooooo
Needs 5o be tighten or replaced the belt
Lol what is that Geo Metro animation at the end
If you have no rust under that car. You a have a car that is hard to find. I collect these little cars. Throw a new block in and roll.
William R it has rust underneath but it’s not so bad...
Man irk what you were smoking when you came up with that ending.... But it must of been good... Lmao... Geoooo Metroo lol
Good old cars
Sounds like a valve tapping on a pistol sure the timming belt was put on wrong lol
@george...............
Lol I’m singing with the video
they colt theme in europa suzuki swift , engines are ferry strong
That's been royally cooked. You probably could not hear that before due to all the other horrible noises it was making before. The most sensible option might be to find another running engine in a car with a rotten shell, they must be around...
Starting to warm up up ther al? btw you must be living life right brother 👍🏻
Drop the oil pan and replace the bearings!
that metro has at least another 100,000 left in her
"Geo...Metro. Geo...Metro." When you come up with a Geo Metro parody song after a failed engine repair. #nowthatsludicrous
Hey Al I got a question for you regarding auction cars. I found some cars that look nice, but they have mechanic leins on them. Is that something i have to pay off if I win the auction? Or is it not. I dont know how mechanic leins work really. I appreciate any help
You may want to consider finding a new mechanic. That oil shit is pretty important...
Buddy jus! trashed eR.....
🎵🎵Geo metro 🎵🎵 catchy song
Be cool as a sleeper with a Honda VTEC in it.
An easier conversion is from the Suzuki G10 engine which the Metro came with to a Suzuki G13B engine which is what came in the Suzuki Swift GTi. The G13B engine came stock with forged internals and was turbo ready from the factory.
Lookin good buddy!!
Supercharged the Geo man lol
Rotary swap it. At least a good 200 ponies in a 1500 pound chassis. Be scooting like no one's business
I wouldn’t rebuild a Geo engine with presumably 200,000 miles on it. Its done its job and its over. If you want to fool with it, just keep your eyes peeled for a rusty old Metro with a decent motor for a swap ... otherwise ... chalk it up to a learning experience (you got to see the inside of a geo 3 banger) and dispose of the carcass ... and George owes you a case of beer!
...or ...
Time for an LS swap!
Brian Andrews George you owe me a case of beer!!!
I have a 1995 Metro that has a great bottom end...can I have your head? :D
Motors fuckn shot I would punt that thing as far as possible.
They made a big mistake doing the top end without first knowing exactly what was wrong with the engine. For around $500 they could have ordered a low miles complete create engine directly from Japan and just swap out the whole engine.
The most reliable geo is the geo prism.... made by toyota
These little suzuki geos are pretty decent too
Juljasmah they are great cars, I can agree!
Designed mostly by Toyota, but actually built in Fremont, CA by NUMMI, a joint venture between GM and Toyota. Fremont Assembly was GM's worst plant, so it reopened as the NUMMI plant. Toyota learned how to deal with an unionized American workforce and GM failed to learn about lean manufacturing. Prizms and Corollas were built side by side... but Corollas built at the other, wholely owned and run Toyota plant were better. The NUMMI plant is now owned by Tesla to, well, build Teslas.
buckykattnj:
Geo Prism was just a different Corolla body-style that Toyota offered in Different Markets around the Globe. It was all Toyota....unfortunately assembled by those lazy slobs called the UAW.....the bullet-proof Drive-train came straight from Japan..............the rest of the car...build-quality was questionable at best, thanks to the UAW slobs.
Do you got a motor for a Geo Metro? No!
Ditch the metro Al!!
the geo was always a cheep car. im sure the person who had it before you was cheep and did as little work to it as possible. crush it and move on man.
Ralph Burrows , there not hard to work on I had to replace a burn valve . New valve was steel ,old one was aluminum.
Do you mean the car had birds in it, as a cheep car?
Were can i find one i want a 3 banger
Geo Metro,built Ford tough.
I hate to be the one to say this Geo Metro's were unfortunately made by GM or a subsidiary, but same difference
You mean Suzuki tough.
@@peterparker6584 nah its a good thing, it wouldnt of hit 200,000 if it were a ford
War Machine , ford better than any Chevy or Dodge. 200,000 miles on a 3 cylinder is alot .
Grunt Smoker if it was ford it would have 500,000 miles.
and now there's an engine knock goof mechanic no just kidding 10:33 or incorrect belt timing
Iv got a 1995 geo metro no title runs and drives $700 obo
I live in kansas