I just discovered this past week that the intended screwdriver for the stock takedown bolt is a…. PENNY!! So cool that they thought to make it field serviceable with a common object like a penny. My father’s father’s 67-22 was passed down to me when my father passed away in 2005. I never met my grandfather as he died before I was born. At 39 with limited mechanical/topping experience, I finally mustered up the courage to disassemble it about a week ago. Mine has a few issues that I’m ironing out, but without videos like these, I’d be lost. Thanks for posting and sharing your knowledge!
I inherited my dad's model 67. I think it's a '37. The barrel has that brownish red look that I need to rectify and I have a front sight coming from Numrich because long decades ago my brother filed off the front sight bead because he wanted to shoot farther out with a better degree of accuracy. My dad refinished the stock at one time but it has a polyurethane finish over it which makes it look eay nicer than how they came from the factory. The original chrome plated bolt broke decades ago but my other brother had found a replacement chrome plated bolt for it. I'm fixing to pass it down to my nephew since it's an heirloom. Mark Novak's TH-cam channel is a good place to watch his methods of conserving old firearms.
I had to edit. My old arthritic fingers run amuck on my tablet keyboard. You talk about the darker color at 1:04 and assume it is from oil-based gun cleaners. You are probably, right. Am still learning about stock refinishing. Here are some things I do. CITRISTRIP is a water-based varnish stripper. I use two coats with hot tap water between coats and after. To get the stripper off, I use a plastic razor blade or old credit card. Bs sure to wash the card before using it in an ATM :-) IN LIEU OF SANDPAPER, I use the plastic based SCOTCH BRITE scouring sheet. The plastics are less likely to gouge the softened wood during stripping. Any fine cracks and splits can be treated by working unwaxed dental floss through the crack; add a small amount of strong water based adhesive the floss works the adhesive deep into cracks wipe off excess adhesive with a lightly dampened cloth. Once thoroughly dry, the stock can be sanded. Dark colored areas sometimes benefit from a vigorous rub with a coarse cloth dampened with wood stain pre-treat before staining. Light dents, and depressions can sometimes removed with a wet cloth and an electric clothes iron set to HIGH. The above works with other old wood as well; plate cameras, musical instruments, vintage radio cabinets and even car/airplane parts. Good luck and have some fun
Enjoyed the restoration. I have a Model 67 myself that was my Dad's from the early '50's that he bought new. It's a treasure that will be passed down for generations. The slow, deliberate process that it takes to fire it repeatedly actually improves my accuracy with other guns (probably because every shot is an event and it's relaxing.) BTW, the main takedown screw in front of the triggerguard was designed to be removed with a penny. If you look closely, the bottom of the slot is curved to fit and the relatively soft copper will not damage it. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and the tip about the penny, here's the video of him shooting it for the first time th-cam.com/video/vDIblt9081g/w-d-xo.html he did go faster then I would have liked but that's probably due to the fact that he plays nerf guns with his friends.
I am so excited to hear your report on the "A" designation. I have 67A. That narrows it down 1938-1960. Have you read the price it reataled for from 1934-1960?
@@acet7 I have seen two different people online report a low price of $5.50 in 1934 and a high price of $18.95 in 1963. I now believe mine was made between 1937 and 1944.
I don't believe so, it brought out the color of the wood. It did get a little darker but not much. I think you would want to use a darker wood oil/stain. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
That stock looks gorgeous! Did you end up putting any kind of wax or sealer on it? Was it common place for people to etch their social security number on their firearms? (Seems odd to me?)
Thanks for watching, as for the SS I remember back in the 80's people had their SS on their personal checks. But I think he had scratched his SS in the stock many many years before that, to show that it was his in case it got stolen. I didnt put any wax on it the gentleman that told me how to do it just told me to put the tru oil on it.
@@acet7 When restoring a stock, I have some form of ID laser etched on the stock back before I reattach the butt plate. Find an old stock blank and work with your engraver. The two of you can experiment with laser embellishments like scroll work, patterns, tree leaves, etc. Besides enhancing the visual appearance the laser work helps when gripping the stock.
I just discovered this past week that the intended screwdriver for the stock takedown bolt is a…. PENNY!! So cool that they thought to make it field serviceable with a common object like a penny. My father’s father’s 67-22 was passed down to me when my father passed away in 2005. I never met my grandfather as he died before I was born. At 39 with limited mechanical/topping experience, I finally mustered up the courage to disassemble it about a week ago. Mine has a few issues that I’m ironing out, but without videos like these, I’d be lost. Thanks for posting and sharing your knowledge!
Glad it helped, thank you for watching!
I inherited my dad's model 67. I think it's a '37. The barrel has that brownish red look that I need to rectify and I have a front sight coming from Numrich because long decades ago my brother filed off the front sight bead because he wanted to shoot farther out with a better degree of accuracy. My dad refinished the stock at one time but it has a polyurethane finish over it which makes it look eay nicer than how they came from the factory. The original chrome plated bolt broke decades ago but my other brother had found a replacement chrome plated bolt for it. I'm fixing to pass it down to my nephew since it's an heirloom.
Mark Novak's TH-cam channel is a good place to watch his methods of conserving old firearms.
Thanks and thanks for watching!
I had to edit. My old arthritic fingers run amuck on my tablet keyboard. You talk about the darker color at 1:04 and assume it is from oil-based gun cleaners. You are probably, right. Am still learning about stock refinishing. Here are some things I do. CITRISTRIP is a water-based varnish stripper. I use two coats with hot tap water between coats and after. To get the stripper off, I use a plastic razor blade or old credit card. Bs sure to wash the card before using it in an ATM :-) IN LIEU OF SANDPAPER, I use the plastic based SCOTCH BRITE scouring sheet. The plastics are less likely to gouge the softened wood during stripping. Any fine cracks and splits can be treated by working unwaxed dental floss through the crack; add a small amount of strong water based adhesive the floss works the adhesive deep into cracks wipe off excess adhesive with a lightly dampened cloth. Once thoroughly dry, the stock can be sanded. Dark colored areas sometimes benefit from a vigorous rub with a coarse cloth dampened with wood stain pre-treat before staining. Light dents, and depressions can sometimes removed with a wet cloth and an electric clothes iron set to HIGH. The above works with other old wood as well; plate cameras, musical instruments, vintage radio cabinets and even car/airplane parts. Good luck and have some fun
Thank you for your tips and thanks for watching.
Great job enjoyed the video I have a 67a I am starting to restore....shoots great. Shoe
Thanks for watching, I hope you post a video of your restoration of it. Share the link here if you do.
Enjoyed the restoration. I have a Model 67 myself that was my Dad's from the early '50's that he bought new. It's a treasure that will be passed down for generations. The slow, deliberate process that it takes to fire it repeatedly actually improves my accuracy with other guns (probably because every shot is an event and it's relaxing.)
BTW, the main takedown screw in front of the triggerguard was designed to be removed with a penny. If you look closely, the bottom of the slot is curved to fit and the relatively soft copper will not damage it. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and the tip about the penny, here's the video of him shooting it for the first time th-cam.com/video/vDIblt9081g/w-d-xo.html he did go faster then I would have liked but that's probably due to the fact that he plays nerf guns with his friends.
Came out pretty nice - good job. 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I am so excited to hear your report on the "A" designation. I have 67A. That narrows it down 1938-1960. Have you read the price it reataled for from 1934-1960?
no I have not, what did they retail for back then?
@@acet7 I have seen two different people online report a low price of $5.50 in 1934 and a high price of $18.95 in 1963. I now believe mine was made between 1937 and 1944.
Did you use oil with the steel wool on the barrel
Yes
In reference to the Tru-Oil, if you keep adding oil to the wood will it get darker with each coat?
I don't believe so, it brought out the color of the wood. It did get a little darker but not much. I think you would want to use a darker wood oil/stain. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
@@acet7 Yes. Your video is awesome. I'm so glad you published it. Very helpful and informative.
Beautiful job!👏🏻
Thank you and thanks for watching!
You do nice work.
Thank you and thanks for watching.
My model 67 I believe was born in 1937. Being that it shoots 22s,L, LR
What about 22mag?
They do not fit 22 mag, thank you for watching.
Damn man you struggled bad with that 1 screw 😅😅
That stock looks gorgeous! Did you end up putting any kind of wax or sealer on it?
Was it common place for people to etch their social security number on their firearms? (Seems odd to me?)
Thanks for watching, as for the SS I remember back in the 80's people had their SS on their personal checks. But I think he had scratched his SS in the stock many many years before that, to show that it was his in case it got stolen. I didnt put any wax on it the gentleman that told me how to do it just told me to put the tru oil on it.
@@acet7 thanks for the reply! How is the stock holding up?
@@dm7097 Still looks good, no issues
@@acet7 When restoring a stock, I have some form of ID laser etched on the stock back before I reattach the butt plate. Find an old stock blank and work with your engraver. The two of you can experiment with laser embellishments like scroll work, patterns, tree leaves, etc. Besides enhancing the visual appearance the laser work helps when gripping the stock.
Can this shoot 22mag also?
No it will not, thank you for watching.
I need a butt plate for mine...
Squeeze more Visa ! Kkkkkkk
Vise *****