Thanks for the guide, I had to clean mine today after my washers started having issues (thankfully just blocked filters). Your video was a great reference. Top tip to anyone else, my filler point was a nightmare to remove from the pipe, if anyone has the same issue I boiled some water and poured it over the pipe, this softened everything and the two came apart no problem. Filters cleaned and the washers are working again.
Just followed this on my 2015 F33, and it made it much easier. My issue was a bad washer pump. Getting the reservoir back in the fender was probably the hardest part! Thanks!
Thanks for the vid. I had the same issue my filter was full to the brim of gunk. Took around 2 hours with all the faffing about but would be much quicker if I had to do it again. Memo to self: take a video of where all the screws are screwed in before taking them all off 🙃
100th like from me. Thank you so much for explaining this very clear. I was looking for this video for a long time. Hopefully I will get this problem sorted on my own my now. I was quoted around £200 for this. The mechanic said he will need a whole day and will have to take off the bumper, wing and the side skirt to remove the washer bottle and clean it. I really appreciate this video. Thank you once again :)
Thank you for the guide, appreciate it. Just done mine on my M140i. It was slightly different but not too much. The three push in connectors on the lip of the arch were a pain. I couldn't re-use mine and had to buy a huge assorted pack just to replace three. Apart from that, it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be, so I saved a good £150 garage bill and I knew it had been done properly.
Not necessary to take out front section of wheel guard, can be done just taking out rear section. It’s really a very simple job, but the video for reference make it even easier.
That's true - I had the front out anyway as I was doing some other work. You're right, it's not difficult, the hardest part is finding all the fitting points so I thought a video would help remove any mystery for others.
Spot on. I have an F10 and will be attacking this soon. Different chassis number so will likely be slightly different but this is really useful, thank you.
Thank you so much for this video! It helped so much. Your well explained video helped me understand how to get my washers working again. I followed every step and tip you said exactly. What could have been a nightmare job was made quick and understandable. What a relief.
Yup, same here on my F11 530D, BUT: Today I Found Out that the washer pump-bodies are notorious for cracking, so may need replacing too while you have it taken apart... But non-OEM pumps should be
Great video mate going to give this a try tomorrow! My passenger side spits a little out when testing the washer fluid but the driver side is fully blocked but the pumps are making the noise
Done the same job myself after weak jets tried steradent tablets/ blowing air down the line in to the tank as a temporary fix work for a few days, did same as this video filter was all snotty before mot now only use prestone screen wash from screw fix, also bought the 5mm rivets from ebay for the side of the arch liner, simply enough job if got a jack and basic tools also didn't have to remove front half arch liner only rear half
I'd heard that using "the wrong screenwash" was the cause of this, and the sticky/greasy blue gunk clogging my filter confirmed it, so thanks for the heads-up about using the prestone screenwash from Screwfix Martin 😉👍
Do the little prongs for the sensor pull out. I thing my sensor has either gone bad or the prongs are corroded. I’m also having a hell of a time finding the sensor to buy.
Great video… Having issues with them at the moment. I’m not getting any sound from the pumps, so I suspect the fuse has perhaps blown. Struggling to find any fuse locations as it’s in the FEM and zero diagrams I can find so going to have to test any fuse unless anyone knows which fuses are responsible? Thinking the tank has been clogged or frozen and knocked it out, but this video will be great help when I check the fuse first and Sod’s law applies so I’ve got to check the bottle out…
Pretty insightful video, how much thick is this tank do you reckon? If we insert a 3-5mm hose pipe via the top mouth, would it reach to the bottom, least the lower part? Since you have seen its groovy/ heavily molded design. I have watched this video numerous times to make a mental guess and acquired the hose for it. I am unfortunate enough to remove/acquire all the stuff and wash this tank. I plan to slowly dissolve, dilute, kill the algae/gunk and suck it out of this tank, its gonna be a multi attempt, long process, prison escape kind of a mission. Thanks for all the info, appreciate your effort.
Hi, If I understand you correctly...I'd say you'd need about 40cm of hose to go in from the top of the tank for it to reach the bottom. The problem is, even if you dissolve and suck out the gunk from the bottom of the tank, your filters will still be blocked - so it probably won't make much difference. I think this is the only way to do the job properly.
I tried inserting a drain cleaner attachment for my jetwash to help clean the gunk that was like a tide mark 3/4 of the way up the reservoir (with it off the car and filler neck removed). The pipe is under 10mm but had no chance of going anywhere in the tank as it's moulded in such a way that it appears the have baffles presumably to stop water sloshing. I also thought of a long bottle brush but I doubt you'd get anything much thicker than a wire coat hanger in there. I too first tried dissolving the build up and had tried drain cleaner and white vinegar with no positive results. When I got to them the filters where completely clogged so the chemicals had had little to no effect.
@@warren7830 Yup, if the filters are badly clogged then no amount of chemicals are going to disolve all the greasy/slimy gunk that collects there... I used an old nail-brush and hot water and it took A LOT of scrubbing to get it all off properly, so unless you've got a degree in chemistry and the exact formula of all of the different types of screenwash that have ever been through the filter(?) then don't mess around and just get your spanners out and do it properly BEFORE the gunk on the filter wrecks the pump (they crack from the powerful vacuum created by the pump trying to suck washer-fluid through the blocked filter, which flexes and fatigues the plastic that the pump-body is made from until it cracks) and then you'll DEFINITELY need to strip-out the wheelarch-liner and remove the tank as explained in this video to change the pump...
little tip, save you the hassle of doing all this. If you disconnect the driver side jet washer, and connect a bike pump on the end you can blow out all the debris and limescale that sits in the diaphragm/filter of the pump.
@@toby9055 at some point I will need to do what you done because it's blocked again 🤣 I was thinking jet washer in the tank have a good blast around but I think it will just make it worse.
I had been told to "Only use BMW Screenwash" and thought it was nonsense/lies just to get me to pay 4X the price for BMW-branded screenwash from a BMW dealer, but I'm sorry to say that it's true for exactly this reason... But somebody in the comments above (I just went through the comments again, and it was Martin Fitzy, so thanks Martin...) says that Prestone screenwash from Screwfix is the correct formulation to use with these kinds of filters, so I'll be checking that out for future reference.
Thanks for the guide, I had to clean mine today after my washers started having issues (thankfully just blocked filters). Your video was a great reference. Top tip to anyone else, my filler point was a nightmare to remove from the pipe, if anyone has the same issue I boiled some water and poured it over the pipe, this softened everything and the two came apart no problem. Filters cleaned and the washers are working again.
Good tip, thanks
Nice, concise video. Does a better job of explaining things than other videos that are 5 times as long.
Just followed this on my 2015 F33, and it made it much easier. My issue was a bad washer pump. Getting the reservoir back in the fender was probably the hardest part! Thanks!
Thanks for the vid. I had the same issue my filter was full to the brim of gunk. Took around 2 hours with all the faffing about but would be much quicker if I had to do it again. Memo to self: take a video of where all the screws are screwed in before taking them all off 🙃
I’ve been looking for days for a video like this. Thank you
100th like from me. Thank you so much for explaining this very clear. I was looking for this video for a long time. Hopefully I will get this problem sorted on my own my now. I was quoted around £200 for this. The mechanic said he will need a whole day and will have to take off the bumper, wing and the side skirt to remove the washer bottle and clean it.
I really appreciate this video. Thank you once again :)
Thank you for the feedback 👍
Thank you for the guide, appreciate it.
Just done mine on my M140i.
It was slightly different but not too much.
The three push in connectors on the lip of the arch were a pain. I couldn't re-use mine and had to buy a huge assorted pack just to replace three.
Apart from that, it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be, so I saved a good £150 garage bill and I knew it had been done properly.
I agree, getting those three out was the most difficult part!
Not necessary to take out front section of wheel guard, can be done just taking out rear section. It’s really a very simple job, but the video for reference make it even easier.
That's true - I had the front out anyway as I was doing some other work. You're right, it's not difficult, the hardest part is finding all the fitting points so I thought a video would help remove any mystery for others.
Really good guide and a clear easy video showing everything. Thanks for that!
Glad it helped!
Great vid. Good angles to see how it’s done. I’ve got to do this tomorrow and will be using this video as a source. Thank you.
Thanks for your feedback - hope it was useful!
Fantastic video, thanks for the explanation and showing the angles & filters. Awesome 👏🏼
Thanks for the feedback! 👍
Spot on. I have an F10 and will be attacking this soon. Different chassis number so will likely be slightly different but this is really useful, thank you.
Thank you so much for this video! It helped so much. Your well explained video helped me understand how to get my washers working again. I followed every step and tip you said exactly. What could have been a nightmare job was made quick and understandable. What a relief.
Thanks for this guide helped me a lot today ,I just had blocked filters 👍🏽
Hi, did you unblock them using this video?
Yup, same here on my F11 530D, BUT: Today I Found Out that the washer pump-bodies are notorious for cracking, so may need replacing too while you have it taken apart... But non-OEM pumps should be
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this.
Great video mate going to give this a try tomorrow! My passenger side spits a little out when testing the washer fluid but the driver side is fully blocked but the pumps are making the noise
Mines just started with this issue so will be tackling at the weekend. Thanks 👍🏻
Great video. Very well presented. Thanks you sir for taking the time to share this.
Very welcome
Great video I’ll be tackling this when I get a min.
Done the same job myself after weak jets tried steradent tablets/ blowing air down the line in to the tank as a temporary fix work for a few days, did same as this video filter was all snotty before mot now only use prestone screen wash from screw fix, also bought the 5mm rivets from ebay for the side of the arch liner, simply enough job if got a jack and basic tools also didn't have to remove front half arch liner only rear half
I'd heard that using "the wrong screenwash" was the cause of this, and the sticky/greasy blue gunk clogging my filter confirmed it, so thanks for the heads-up about using the prestone screenwash from Screwfix Martin 😉👍
Good vid mate gotta do mine next week
Do the little prongs for the sensor pull out. I thing my sensor has either gone bad or the prongs are corroded. I’m also having a hell of a time finding the sensor to buy.
Great video… Having issues with them at the moment. I’m not getting any sound from the pumps, so I suspect the fuse has perhaps blown. Struggling to find any fuse locations as it’s in the FEM and zero diagrams I can find so going to have to test any fuse unless anyone knows which fuses are responsible? Thinking the tank has been clogged or frozen and knocked it out, but this video will be great help when I check the fuse first and Sod’s law applies so I’ve got to check the bottle out…
Thanks for the video I've just done this job today and some great tips.
damn those rivets! great vid cheers
Thanks for a great guide. Did mine today.
All bmws are the same
Going to do mine now. Must of done this on about 15 to 20 bmws now 😢
Great, clear video. Thank you!
giving this a bash tomorrow will see how it goes...
Thanks for the video. Very helpful!
Pretty insightful video, how much thick is this tank do you reckon? If we insert a 3-5mm hose pipe via the top mouth, would it reach to the bottom, least the lower part? Since you have seen its groovy/ heavily molded design. I have watched this video numerous times to make a mental guess and acquired the hose for it. I am unfortunate enough to remove/acquire all the stuff and wash this tank. I plan to slowly dissolve, dilute, kill the algae/gunk and suck it out of this tank, its gonna be a multi attempt, long process, prison escape kind of a mission. Thanks for all the info, appreciate your effort.
Hi, If I understand you correctly...I'd say you'd need about 40cm of hose to go in from the top of the tank for it to reach the bottom. The problem is, even if you dissolve and suck out the gunk from the bottom of the tank, your filters will still be blocked - so it probably won't make much difference. I think this is the only way to do the job properly.
I tried inserting a drain cleaner attachment for my jetwash to help clean the gunk that was like a tide mark 3/4 of the way up the reservoir (with it off the car and filler neck removed). The pipe is under 10mm but had no chance of going anywhere in the tank as it's moulded in such a way that it appears the have baffles presumably to stop water sloshing. I also thought of a long bottle brush but I doubt you'd get anything much thicker than a wire coat hanger in there.
I too first tried dissolving the build up and had tried drain cleaner and white vinegar with no positive results. When I got to them the filters where completely clogged so the chemicals had had little to no effect.
@@warren7830 Yup, if the filters are badly clogged then no amount of chemicals are going to disolve all the greasy/slimy gunk that collects there...
I used an old nail-brush and hot water and it took A LOT of scrubbing to get it all off properly, so unless you've got a degree in chemistry and the exact formula of all of the different types of screenwash that have ever been through the filter(?) then don't mess around and just get your spanners out and do it properly BEFORE the gunk on the filter wrecks the pump (they crack from the powerful vacuum created by the pump trying to suck washer-fluid through the blocked filter, which flexes and fatigues the plastic that the pump-body is made from until it cracks) and then you'll DEFINITELY need to strip-out the wheelarch-liner and remove the tank as explained in this video to change the pump...
little tip, save you the hassle of doing all this.
If you disconnect the driver side jet washer, and connect a bike pump on the end you can blow out all the debris and limescale that sits in the diaphragm/filter of the pump.
True, and a good tip. I agree that helps in the short term - but eventually all those bits find their way back into the filters.
@@toby9055 at some point I will need to do what you done because it's blocked again 🤣 I was thinking jet washer in the tank have a good blast around but I think it will just make it worse.
Not a long term solution just blocks again
Im assuming the same job for F10 as im having the same issues
On point. Thanks
thanks for great video;-) my car only has 40k km and this problem already present:-(
I had been told to "Only use BMW Screenwash" and thought it was nonsense/lies just to get me to pay 4X the price for BMW-branded screenwash from a BMW dealer, but I'm sorry to say that it's true for exactly this reason...
But somebody in the comments above (I just went through the comments again, and it was Martin Fitzy, so thanks Martin...) says that Prestone screenwash from Screwfix is the correct formulation to use with these kinds of filters, so I'll be checking that out for future reference.
Great guide