I noticed this model was the front wheel drive. On the 4wd or AWD I believe the transfer case has to be dropped. I have an 03 4wd and there is no where near the space they had. Did inner tie rods yesterday and noticed small leak in rack seal. So now I will have to do the whole rack. But this video at least shows where everything is located. I like real fixes real fast because they do a lot with ford escapes. Thanks guys for the info.
Just replaced the rack on our 06 V6 2WD Escape using the Subchassis drop technique you show starting at 2:36. It's the easiest way to get the Rack out! Without that extra inch or inch+1/4 it cannot come out the drivers (or passenger) wheel well! THANK YOU for the tip! I also found that if disconnect the sway bar end-links from the strut and remove the sway bar bushing brackets, you can move the sway bar around to give you more room for the Rack bolts too.
This was a pretty tough job. One HUGE thing I would recommend, when putting the new one in and hooking up the steering linkage, come at it from the inside. You can pull the boot and everything out of the way and reach everything MUCH easier from the inside. Made ALL the difference on this for me.
did mine on a 2006 escape and the knuckle bolt was accessible from the foot of the driver by removing some 10mm nuts and pulling the boot all the way up the shaft inside the cab. much easier. rest of the video was very helpful.
@Chris07860 There's 2 seals on the rack and pinion assembly where the tie rods come out that actually seal the pressurized fluid inside the rack and pinion. The boots cover up these seals so you can't see them from the outside. Those seals are what's actually leaking which is why the rack and pinion's being replaced. There's supposed to be NO fluid at all inside those boots. The purpose of the boots is just to keep dirt and dust off those seals.
I was replacing the struts and inner tire rods on my Chrysler 300m when i saw the rack and pinion was worn badly were the tire rods were connected to it and leaking, on like most cars the rack and pinion is remove from below, my car was up top in the engine bay, To do so you have remove the wind shield wipers, air vent shields, entire air filter housing, a few hoses, and 2 main wire connecters.The hardest thing to do was remove the bolt from steering shaft .Entire job took 3 hrs.it was fun.
FYI it's lots harder to do on a 4wd Escape. You have to remove the rear motor mount and bracket in order to get the rack in and out. Torque on those motor mount bracket bolts can be killer. Needed a breaker bar and a pipe. Broke 2 1/2" drive u joints. Helps to open up the steering shaft hole thru the firewall from the inside. But it is doable.
I can't believe I paid almost a $1000 to the Chrysler dealer to do this and plus they had my car for 2 days a few years ago. 2 different mechanic wanted $700+ to do this today and told me i would have to leave the car and pick it up tomorrow even after i had already brought the new parts. all it need was installing. well i did it myself, all it cost was $149 in parts 3hrs+ and a nice cold one to drink after the test drive, all i need now is alignment.& yes cold one was after the test drive.
tip that worked for me just when doing outer tie rods, put a quick squirt of grey primer on the adjusting nut and inner tie rod threads, let it dry for a few minutes and you have an even more accurate measurement of where the nut goes
Thanks for posting. I did this repair on a 2000 Chevy Venture. What a beast. I never could get the boot back on and figured that the mileage on the car would justify skipping the boot. This was a difficult repair in a home garage without a lift. Lying prone of the floor with the subframe supported but inches from my chest was scary. I have an Alero with the same problem, but I think I'll take it to a pro.
@jeepers. I know what you mean. I do all my work on the ground, with logs as my axle stands and big river rocks for my tire stops. Really. I dont recommend but safer then an axle stand. Just looked up the hrs for the job 6.1hrs@ $80hr. Cheaper then going and getting it done by someone else.
Here is a tip. instead of counting threads, break the locknut loose and take off the outer tie rod end. Put the end of the tie rod at the locknut and scribe a line. On new unit, screw the locknut on until the nut is the same distance as marked on the tie rod end. Works good for me
In this tech's defense: am aware of the various ways to separate tie rod ends on my escape, a tie rod end puller will work, however a knock with a mallet may do more to save the(super important) threads on the rod end and give more resistance to the cotter pin secured "jesus" castle nut. While I am a locksmith not an ase cert mechanic I have the pullers and adapters, I mostly work with soft brass parts and not steel stuff as my experiences go with threaded thru shafts that its a whole lot better to free the shaft by lateral manipulation than it is to pound/press the the threads through a bind in shaft situation.
Thanks for getting back to me, but we just found out what the noise is, it's the upper control arm bushing. I will have to replace it, but was told it would just be best to replace the whole control arm since it comes with new ball joint and bushings already, probably both sides, then front end will need aligned.
Behind the steering wheel is a part called a "Clock Spring" if the steering wheel is turned too many times in either direction it will break and is expensive/difficult to replace. This means that BEFORE you disconnect any tie rod ends loosen the steering knuckle bolt leaving it in just a few threads so that it can be removed completely later with fingers easily. Then center the front wheels for driving straight level and lock the steering wheel, I use the seat belt twisted for fine tune. Then crack free the nut on the inner tie rod threaded bar, then remove the outer tie rod to spindle nut.(he did it with an air gun) Use a brass/copper hammer instead of steel one or a tool called a "pickle fork" (I have an air hammer adapter set) to separate the outer tie rod from the spindle arm if difficult.(boot damage can occur) Remove the steering knuckle bolt and I use angled pry bars to separate. (not always easy) Count the rotations when removing both outer tie rod ends and note nut positions for reassembly accuracy. (of course you still need an alignment to set the tow with precision) The rest is up to your specific vehicle to disconnect/reconnect the lines and remove/reinstall the rack. Just as important as rethreading the outer tie rod ends back onto the inner tie rods threaded bar with 99.9+% accuracy is before installing the rack in the vehicle is to turn the steering shaft from end to end counting the amount of rotations. (3 1/2 ?) Divide this value in half taking that number starting from one end of the rotation stop and "center the rack" (this would be the position if the rack was installed and the vehicle is going straight) It is real important to get this steering shaft position 99.9+% perfect and not let it rotate during installation until you have the steering knuckle attached to the shaft with bolt inserted. In case you were wondering I have been preforming automotive repair since 1976, 1990 professionally and am ASE Certified. (not that it matters...stupid idiot tests where they try to trick you instead of test your knowledge)
I had to do one on my Rendezvous and will never do one on this kind of vehicle again. It took me six hours by myself, in the parking lot to get this fixed. The Alero will be pretty similar to the Venture to replace. Some things are better left to the pros if you can afford it.
Wow man nice video. You should be proud... I'm a heavy duty tech and work on large stuff... this was the first job in 10 years on my own stuff ill be saying "F#@! It" and sending it into the shop, damn good video mate. Thanks.
Looks like a bigger job than I imagined just looking at mine underneath the car when changing the engine oil. Fortunately I'm not having any problems with the steering rack yet. Hoping I'm not jinxing myself saying that.
@sbakar as an ase certified technician, you are not permitted to cut corners. that badge on your arm represents a commitment to customers (automotive SERVICE excellence) that you will do EVERY job BY THE BOOK to ensure customer satisfaction. furthermore, this is a "how-to," video, the instructor in the video should at least mention that the recommended tool for the job is a three jaw puller, not a mallet.
take a better look at your video,it should be changed.i did mine today on 2005 jeep liberty,i took the rank out thur the radiator,took belt off/power steering holes off /turn wheels to left and pulled it right out,lot easyer than what u did,took 20 mins
#1, most power steering components fail, due to bad fluid, #2, the fluid eats into the rubber lines, therefore making the fluid bad, #3, always flush the fluid completely out, #4, ALWAYS replace the rubber lines, if not your new rack and pump will go bad sooner then lasting as long as they should.
Now I know why mecanic work ain't cheap. Lot's of work has to be done on vehicles. I have a 2004 chevrolet silverado truck, and when I put it in drive and turn the wheel all the way to the right or left, I keep hearing a clunking sound, sounds like its coming from the right front side, or in the middle. Just had new inner tie rod put in, and this noise is there now. I wish I knew whats wrong with it. Had rotors turned, new front pad, and front end alignment, and still doing this. Please help.
Great video, very helpful in getting the new rack and pin into my 2008 Escape. Does anyone know the torque specs for the subframe bolts? I can't find that info anywhere.
The boot are replaceable, but what good is it to replace a boot for a badly leaking rack seal. rubber and oil done mix too well and will ruin the new boot. Changing a rack n' pinion can be a bear sometimes and very messy, but the satisfaction afterward is like a big O.
if u forget to lock the steering wheel and already moved the wheel after taking old rack and pinion out how do u know where to put the steering wheel in the rite position?
This help in replacing the rack on my 2008 Escape however I am having trouble replacing one of the undercarriage bolts. It is out of alignment with the hole. Any suggestions?
Do new racks always come in the "straight" position or do I need to take measurements? About to do this on '05 liberty diesel... Real tight space!!! Want to get it right the first time! Thanks for the vid and the info!
my mom has an alero, go to replace the outer tie ends one comes off with a little elbow grease ( 1 1/2 later) and the other one the jam nut refuses to come off i double check to make sure i was turning it the right way but full can of pb blaster and 3 days later still no luck. So then i was like oh i'll just replace the inner tie end . then it turns out you have to replace the whole rack, the inner ends are built into the dam rack and pinion and don't come off like they do on most cars.
How long can I ride on a bad rack and pinion? Been doing it for 5 years 100k lol I mean I'm not loosing power steering fluid. It drives and steres fine even alignment on point. I do hear minor noise when parking etc and boot Is toren which got little worse over years I got about 250k on my camry don't want to put money into it besides that car good mechanical condition any advice? I wanna make this car last without doing unnecessary work $$ save money
If boot is torn, it may be just a matter of time before your inner-tie rods go. Now you have rocks and dirt getting into areas it has not place in being there.
I guess this is one reason to change the power steering fluid. I changed mine the first time at 99k, it was pitch black and smelled terrible. Can't be good for seals.
Nice Vid... How long did it actually take you to do ? What's the Flat rate pay ?(How long do they give you to do it ). By the way, you didn't have to turn the fan off, we could still hear you ... Poor Guy .... Make Him Sweat like that. ;-)
Why do you remove the outer ends when they are already on the rack only to put them back on in the exact same spot? @irishgod84 I know when you do gear jobs on diffs you need to drive for a while at low speeds taking it very easy so the gears have time to break in. if you dont then later on you can get a very loud wining noise from the diffs as the gears have warped due to heat and such. perhaps something similar to do with the eminence forces placed on the gear teeth in the steering box.
I called the stealership, they wanted $690 to replace the steering pressure line, on a ford edge , then I found out it was the rack that is leaking. I'm almost afraid to call to see what they charge for that...?
@irishgod84 Sounds like BS to me-as far as I know, you immediately get an alignment, not wait a week-that makes no sense to me. It's a car, not a house...I don't see why it would need to "settle" before the alignment.
hi i have an 88 toyota celica who is in need of a new rack and pinion assembly. my question is, is it possible to use other model's(corolla, corona, or camry) rack and pinion assembly for my celica? celica parts here in my country is very hard to find and corollas, coronas are more common here in my country
You mean how do you get the line fittings to thread back in to the housing and then how are they tightened and to what torque ??? You STRUGGLE of course : ) )
For my 2007 tsx, it says that to prevent SRS damage, i have to remove the steering wheel before removing steering shaft connecting bolt....is it really mandatory or optional, because i dont want to mess with it. let me know please
The boot is just there to protect the seals. If the boot is filling up with power steering fluid, the high pressure seals are gone and the rack needs to be replaced.
Does any one know if you have to drive the vehicle for about a week, and get a front end allignment for the vehicle to run properly after a rack and pin job? I was told this by multiple sources but it just does not sound right to me.
that is NOT how you remove the outter tie rods.....great way to break/crack your steering knuckle. use a three jaw puller....i'd really like to know what company you work for so i never take my vehicles to one of their shops.
2005 and it needs a rack and pinion, what a piece of garbage. i have 2 1991 chevy cavaliers and a 1987 pontiac bonneville all of them are as old as "dirt" and they all have over 100K miles on them and none of them have ever had the rack and pinon replaced. i guess stuff was just made better 20+ years ago. my 1 1991 chevy cavalier is my baby. 1991 cavalier convertable 3.1 RS has never seen a winter and probably never will. needs a new top though
Your def not in the rust belt becauee all of the subframe and rack would be balls of rust where im at the subframe is known for rusting and breaking in my area
I noticed this model was the front wheel drive. On the 4wd or AWD I believe the transfer case has to be dropped. I have an 03 4wd and there is no where near the space they had. Did inner tie rods yesterday and noticed small leak in rack seal. So now I will have to do the whole rack. But this video at least shows where everything is located. I like real fixes real fast because they do a lot with ford escapes. Thanks guys for the info.
Just replaced the rack on our 06 V6 2WD Escape using the Subchassis drop technique you show starting at 2:36. It's the easiest way to get the Rack out! Without that extra inch or inch+1/4 it cannot come out the drivers (or passenger) wheel well! THANK YOU for the tip!
I also found that if disconnect the sway bar end-links from the strut and remove the sway bar bushing brackets, you can move the sway bar around to give you more room for the Rack bolts too.
This was a pretty tough job. One HUGE thing I would recommend, when putting the new one in and hooking up the steering linkage, come at it from the inside. You can pull the boot and everything out of the way and reach everything MUCH easier from the inside. Made ALL the difference on this for me.
THANK you sir, much appreciated !! : )
You do it on the ground?
Man thanks allot.. I ain't got a lift but that's gonna be a task I'll perform today.. the toughest yet
did mine on a 2006 escape and the knuckle bolt was accessible from the foot of the driver by removing some 10mm nuts and pulling the boot all the way up the shaft inside the cab. much easier. rest of the video was very helpful.
@Chris07860 There's 2 seals on the rack and pinion assembly where the tie rods come out that actually seal the pressurized fluid inside the rack and pinion. The boots cover up these seals so you can't see them from the outside. Those seals are what's actually leaking which is why the rack and pinion's being replaced. There's supposed to be NO fluid at all inside those boots. The purpose of the boots is just to keep dirt and dust off those seals.
I was replacing the struts and inner tire rods on my Chrysler 300m when i saw the rack and pinion was worn badly were the tire rods were connected to it and leaking, on like most cars the rack and pinion is remove from below, my car was up top in the engine bay, To do so you have remove the wind shield wipers, air vent shields, entire air filter housing, a few hoses, and 2 main wire connecters.The hardest thing to do was remove the bolt from steering shaft .Entire job took 3 hrs.it was fun.
FYI it's lots harder to do on a 4wd Escape.
You have to remove the rear motor mount and bracket in order to get the rack in and out.
Torque on those motor mount bracket bolts can be killer. Needed a breaker bar and a pipe. Broke 2 1/2" drive u joints.
Helps to open up the steering shaft hole thru the firewall from the inside.
But it is doable.
I can't believe I paid almost a $1000 to the Chrysler dealer to do this and plus they had my car for 2 days a few years ago. 2 different mechanic wanted $700+ to do this today and told me i would have to leave the car and pick it up tomorrow even after i had already brought the new parts. all it need was installing. well i did it myself, all it cost was $149 in parts 3hrs+ and a nice cold one to drink after the test drive, all i need now is alignment.& yes cold one was after the test drive.
tip that worked for me just when doing outer tie rods, put a quick squirt of grey primer on the adjusting nut and inner tie rod threads, let it dry for a few minutes and you have an even more accurate measurement of where the nut goes
Great info, 11 years later, thanks!
Thanks for posting. I did this repair on a 2000 Chevy Venture. What a beast. I never could get the boot back on and figured that the mileage on the car would justify skipping the boot.
This was a difficult repair in a home garage without a lift. Lying prone of the floor with the subframe supported but inches from my chest was scary.
I have an Alero with the same problem, but I think I'll take it to a pro.
@jeepers. I know what you mean. I do all my work on the ground, with logs as my axle stands and big river rocks for my tire stops.
Really. I dont recommend but safer then an axle stand. Just looked up the hrs for the job 6.1hrs@ $80hr. Cheaper then going and getting it done by someone else.
Here is a tip. instead of counting threads, break the locknut loose and take off the outer tie rod end. Put the end of the tie rod at the locknut and scribe a line. On new unit, screw the locknut on until the nut is the same distance as marked on the tie rod end. Works good for me
In this tech's defense:
am aware of the various ways to separate tie rod ends on my escape, a tie rod end puller will work, however a knock with a mallet may do more to save the(super important) threads on the rod end and give more resistance to the cotter pin secured "jesus" castle nut. While I am a locksmith not an ase cert mechanic I have the pullers and adapters, I mostly work with soft brass parts and not steel stuff as my experiences go with threaded thru shafts that its a whole lot better to free the shaft by lateral manipulation than it is to pound/press the the threads through a bind in shaft situation.
Thanks for getting back to me, but we just found out what the noise is, it's the upper control arm bushing. I will have to replace it, but was told it would just be best to replace the whole control arm since it comes with new ball joint and bushings already, probably both sides, then front end will need aligned.
Behind the steering wheel is a part called a "Clock Spring" if the steering wheel is turned too many times in either direction it will break and is expensive/difficult to replace. This means that BEFORE you disconnect any tie rod ends loosen the steering knuckle bolt leaving it in just a few threads so that it can be removed completely later with fingers easily. Then center the front wheels for driving straight level and lock the steering wheel, I use the seat belt twisted for fine tune. Then crack free the nut on the inner tie rod threaded bar, then remove the outer tie rod to spindle nut.(he did it with an air gun) Use a brass/copper hammer instead of steel one or a tool called a "pickle fork" (I have an air hammer adapter set) to separate the outer tie rod from the spindle arm if difficult.(boot damage can occur) Remove the steering knuckle bolt and I use angled pry bars to separate. (not always easy) Count the rotations when removing both outer tie rod ends and note nut positions for reassembly accuracy. (of course you still need an alignment to set the tow with precision) The rest is up to your specific vehicle to disconnect/reconnect the lines and remove/reinstall the rack. Just as important as rethreading the outer tie rod ends back onto the inner tie rods threaded bar with 99.9+% accuracy is before installing the rack in the vehicle is to turn the steering shaft from end to end counting the amount of rotations. (3 1/2 ?) Divide this value in half taking that number starting from one end of the rotation stop and "center the rack" (this would be the position if the rack was installed and the vehicle is going straight) It is real important to get this steering shaft position 99.9+% perfect and not let it rotate during installation until you have the steering knuckle attached to the shaft with bolt inserted. In case you were wondering I have been preforming automotive repair since 1976, 1990 professionally and am ASE Certified. (not that it matters...stupid idiot tests where they try to trick you instead of test your knowledge)
I can't believe i have scabies again...ugh....
I wish I would have seen this vid about a year ago! I never thought to drop the sub frame. Exelent vid as always guys!
Great video man. You gave a lot of good, useful advice. Thanks.
I had to do one on my Rendezvous and will never do one on this kind of vehicle again. It took me six hours by myself, in the parking lot to get this fixed. The Alero will be pretty similar to the Venture to replace. Some things are better left to the pros if you can afford it.
Wow man nice video. You should be proud... I'm a heavy duty tech and work on large stuff... this was the first job in 10 years on my own stuff ill be saying "F#@! It" and sending it into the shop, damn good video mate. Thanks.
Looks like a bigger job than I imagined just looking at mine underneath the car when changing the engine oil. Fortunately I'm not having any problems with the steering rack yet. Hoping I'm not jinxing myself saying that.
@INCC74656I Reman. Racks usually only come with the inner tie rod ends not the outer ones.
ON THE 03 FORD ESCAPE V6 IT HELPS IF YOU LOOSEN THE MOTOR MOUNT PASSENGER SIDE
THANKSSSS so much Mr Ben V !!! : )
@sbakar as an ase certified technician, you are not permitted to cut corners. that badge on your arm represents a commitment to customers (automotive SERVICE excellence) that you will do EVERY job BY THE BOOK to ensure customer satisfaction. furthermore, this is a "how-to," video, the instructor in the video should at least mention that the recommended tool for the job is a three jaw puller, not a mallet.
take a better look at your video,it should be changed.i did mine today on 2005 jeep liberty,i took the rank out thur the radiator,took belt off/power steering holes off /turn wheels to left and pulled it right out,lot easyer than what u did,took 20 mins
Any thing I should know before doing it?
@Chris07860 when the rack is replaced, so are the inner tie rods, so a mark on the old parts wouldn't help much.
very good tip thanks very much for posting, jose'
my girlfriends girl friend is gettin off to u dude!!!! u rock!!
#1, most power steering components fail, due to bad fluid, #2, the fluid eats into the rubber lines, therefore making the fluid bad, #3, always flush the fluid completely out, #4, ALWAYS replace the rubber lines, if not your new rack and pump will go bad sooner then lasting as long as they should.
Now I know why mecanic work ain't cheap. Lot's of work has to be done on vehicles. I have a 2004 chevrolet silverado truck, and when I put it in drive and turn the wheel all the way to the right or left, I keep hearing a clunking sound, sounds like its coming from the right front side, or in the middle. Just had new inner tie rod put in, and this noise is there now. I wish I knew whats wrong with it. Had rotors turned, new front pad, and front end alignment, and still doing this. Please help.
Great video, very helpful in getting the new rack and pin into my 2008 Escape. Does anyone know the torque specs for the subframe bolts? I can't find that info anywhere.
It is probably at least 180 lb ft I would guess
As tight as you can get them!
@MrVindog1992 He did. They just didn't bother to show the actual unscrewing of the bolt.
The boot are replaceable, but what good is it to replace a boot for a badly leaking rack seal. rubber and oil done mix too well and will ruin the new boot. Changing a rack n' pinion can be a bear sometimes and very messy, but the satisfaction afterward is like a big O.
if u forget to lock the steering wheel and already moved the wheel after taking old rack and pinion out how do u know where to put the steering wheel in the rite position?
🎉thx!
This help in replacing the rack on my 2008 Escape however I am having trouble replacing one of the undercarriage bolts. It is out of alignment with the hole. Any suggestions?
Do new racks always come in the "straight" position or do I need to take measurements? About to do this on '05 liberty diesel... Real tight space!!! Want to get it right the first time! Thanks for the vid and the info!
Thanks a lot man 4 share your VIDEO.
my mom has an alero, go to replace the outer tie ends one comes off with a little elbow grease ( 1 1/2 later) and the other one the jam nut refuses to come off i double check to make sure i was turning it the right way but full can of pb blaster and 3 days later still no luck. So then i was like oh i'll just replace the inner tie end . then it turns out you have to replace the whole rack, the inner ends are built into the dam rack and pinion and don't come off like they do on most cars.
at least 3 to 4 hours depending on the vehicle
thanks help a lot....
How long does it take to do the whole thing? I"m trying to add up the labour costs. Thanks
How long can I ride on a bad rack and pinion? Been doing it for 5 years 100k lol I mean I'm not loosing power steering fluid. It drives and steres fine even alignment on point. I do hear minor noise when parking etc and boot Is toren which got little worse over years I got about 250k on my camry don't want to put money into it besides that car good mechanical condition any advice? I wanna make this car last without doing unnecessary work $$ save money
If boot is torn, it may be just a matter of time before your inner-tie rods go. Now you have rocks and dirt getting into areas it has not place in being there.
hey rafal did you got any answer to your question? I do not seet it on the forums.thank you
I guess this is one reason to change the power steering fluid. I changed mine the first time at 99k, it was pitch black and smelled terrible. Can't be good for seals.
your suppose to remove the bolt connecting the high pressure line with a wrench not a pry bar
Nice Vid... How long did it actually take you to do ? What's the Flat rate pay ?(How long do they give you to do it ). By the way, you didn't have to turn the fan off, we could still hear you ... Poor Guy .... Make Him Sweat like that. ;-)
Why do you remove the outer ends when they are already on the rack only to put them back on in the exact same spot?
@irishgod84 I know when you do gear jobs on diffs you need to drive for a while at low speeds taking it very easy so the gears have time to break in. if you dont then later on you can get a very loud wining noise from the diffs as the gears have warped due to heat and such. perhaps something similar to do with the eminence forces placed on the gear teeth in the steering box.
I called the stealership, they wanted $690 to replace the steering pressure line, on a ford edge , then I found out it was the rack that is leaking. I'm almost afraid to call to see what they charge for that...?
It's much different on a ranger but just as hard
Just want to know how much time is involved to replacing the parts on Toyota Camry 2005. How much labor charged to be expected form auto work shops.
3-5 hrs, but the book says 6.
could use a bungee cord on the boot
@Chris07860 maybe the boots are not replaceable? I wanna know too..
thank you, very helpful.
Have you done a rack & pinion replacement for a Lincoln MKX or Edge and if one has to drop the subframe to replace it?
It's probably your axle.. TH-cam "axle shaft removal" and look for myturbodieseldotcom video.. He demonstrates the sound that it makes
Is it much different on a 2006 Buick Rendezvous?
How you do the passenger side??
Thanks
@irishgod84 Sounds like BS to me-as far as I know, you immediately get an alignment, not wait a week-that makes no sense to me. It's a car, not a house...I don't see why it would need to "settle" before the alignment.
hi i have an 88 toyota celica who is in need of a new rack and pinion assembly. my question is, is it possible to use other model's(corolla, corona, or camry) rack and pinion assembly for my celica? celica parts here in my country is very hard to find and corollas, coronas are more common here in my country
What tools can you to remove the steering nuckle.
Some things are better left to the professionals.
and dont forgot to do alignement after change it , great video thancks a lot
@boaterbil so theres no bleeder valve; just move the steering wheel back and forth?
How do you get lines back into rack?
You mean how do you get the line fittings to thread back in to the housing and then how are they tightened and to what torque ??? You STRUGGLE of course : ) )
Is there much difference from this and a 2003 4 wheel drive escape?
From 1:58 to 2:05-That's what she said!
A for effort!
For my 2007 tsx, it says that to prevent SRS damage, i have to remove the steering wheel before removing steering shaft connecting bolt....is it really mandatory or optional, because i dont want to mess with it. let me know please
how much dose this cost ?
i need a video on a 2001 ford focus rack removal. can you do me one?
Is it difucult on a 2004 grand am?
Luigi Torchia
yes
One thing I don't understand is can't you just replace the boot that is leaking?
The boot is just there to protect the seals. If the boot is filling up with power steering fluid, the high pressure seals are gone and the rack needs to be replaced.
Does any one know if you have to drive the vehicle for about a week, and get a front end allignment for the vehicle to run properly after a rack and pin job? I was told this by multiple sources but it just does not sound right to me.
I got a Mitsubishi Lancer ES that I got that rack and pinion problem I’ll try 😂😢😅😊
I'll just pay someone to do this.
help what are the torq specs on the sub frame bolts?
Hella of a job! I saw just what I wanted to know..
Challenge accepted!!!!!!!!
or you just put a white mark on the thread of where the nut was.
5:08 AAHAAH!! I knew you weren't doing the work
R xxx e ex td im dtcrxe5sr juggling
that is NOT how you remove the outter tie rods.....great way to break/crack your steering knuckle. use a three jaw puller....i'd really like to know what company you work for so i never take my vehicles to one of their shops.
Entry theme Polish TV TRWAM - OK
2005 and it needs a rack and pinion, what a piece of garbage. i have 2 1991 chevy cavaliers and a 1987 pontiac bonneville all of them are as old as "dirt" and they all have over 100K miles on them and none of them have ever had the rack and pinon replaced. i guess stuff was just made better 20+ years ago. my 1 1991 chevy cavalier is my baby. 1991 cavalier convertable 3.1 RS has never seen a winter and probably never will. needs a new top though
1 1/2 hours later
Fuck this I’ll take mine to the shop
i go to automotive do u i dont think so
Your def not in the rust belt becauee all of the subframe and rack would be balls of rust where im at the subframe is known for rusting and breaking in my area
iPhone 9.02
EVIDENCE
No Obama
dude, get some gloves before you get skin cancer.