CRAFTSMAN CMMT99434 1/2-IN DR TORQUE WRENCH CMMT99434: amzn.to/3I8E6pU Cardone 97-1003 New Rack and Pinion Assembly: amzn.to/3WtpGcm ESCO 10498 Jack Stand, 3 Ton Capacity (BEST Jack Stands on the market!): amzn.to/3JL2K0w
Bro! You just saved my day with this video. I just wrapped up this whole adventure, replacing everything and the torque specs, diagrams and tips.. spot on my guy, thank you 😊
I would consider this job more tedious than hard. Sometimes it can be overwhelming to complete a job like this but something as simple as telling someone they can easily do the job it is all it takes for them to attempt AND complete the job. It's how I did my first engine swap 20+ years ago when my dad told me I can do it very easily as long as I pay attention to the detail.
Glad you liked the video! In regard to the cover, it should easily slide down and pop over the lip on the bottom. If it's not, Im assuming it's not around the base on the back...best way I can describe is if you ever connected a throttle body hose on a throttle body. You can see that the top of the hose is over the lip on the throttle body, but not the bottom so you have to feel down there to make sure the entire hose is around the lip on the throttle body. Do that same thing on this intermediate shaft cover to make sure its fully around the lip, then grab the cover and pull it down till it goes past the lip and is connected. Hope this helps.
Thanks for this video. One small note, not sure if you mentioned to cap the return line on the pump before filling the reservoir and flushing. I noted you had a stub cap on the return line on the pump which was orange coloured.
Glad you liked it! You're correct, the return line on the ps pump must be capped so the fluid doesn't pour out of the reservoir while adding ps fluid. The orange cap seen on mine will come installed on a new pump (I replaced in this video, if not replacing make sure to cap the reservoir return line). After done flushing, remove the return line cap on the reservoir and quickly attach the return line. Thanks for pointing out as I forgot to mention.
Nice descriptive video. One thing I noticed was that you didn't bend the cotter key over fully. If you leave it sticking down like that either you or someone else (alignment guy) will slit their wrist or the back of their hand. Bend it over fully and trim the excess.
Ended up having to do the rack after all, some dingus cross threaded the subframe bolt and hammered it all the way home.. much bigger job than anticipated 😅
I doubt the rack is bad, as you typically loose power steering with a loud humming noise coming from the ps pump. If the actual wheel is shaking, it could be a number of things but I would first start by jacking up vehicle, hold the tire at 9 & 3 and 12 & 6 and see if you can feel any movement. If so, your wheel bearing/hub is bad as I had the same exact issue on this 04 GP in this video (see this video th-cam.com/video/6HKU2yVuhBg/w-d-xo.html). Also check the CV axle as a bad halfshaft can cause vibration as well. If the steering wheel is shaking, first rule out warped rotors...to verify, while going down the highway and feel the vibration, apply the brakes and see if the vibration changes. If so, its your rotors (th-cam.com/video/ThBdaJY0Qes/w-d-xo.html). Tie rod ends and unbalanced tires could also cause vibration felt in the steering wheel (th-cam.com/video/ORWQi6TARmE/w-d-xo.html). Hope this helps.
The lines I was referring to are the ones that connect the rack to the pump. The same pressure and return lines that connect to the power steering pump connect to the steering rack. While you have the rack out, it makes replacing these lines a lot easier and is something I typically do when replacing a rack and pinion.
The alignment of the steering input shaft of my new rack and old rack do not match. My steering wheel is straight. The new rack says it was centered at the factory. Am I correct that I need to adjust the new steering rack to the correct position before installing?
Correct, you need to align before you install otherwise you wont be able to attach to the intermediate shaft. Sometimes you will need to adjust the new rack by about 20 degrees. Anything more than that make sure you line up with the old rack and adjust the right way (you will notice one side is longer than the corresponding side on the old rack). Hope this helps and good luck.
Here are the part numbers for the driver side subframe to steering gear: GM part 11588640 (M12X1.75X80,64 THREAD) and the mounting nut is: 11588541. The passenger side has a smaller head, but for some reason I can't seem to find the part number. I believe you should be able to use the same size for both holes, if I remember right the only difference was the head was a different size. This site shows the part numbers but not sure if they are actually in stock: www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2004-pontiac-grand_prix/front_suspension_steering/steering_system_related_parts.html . Hope this helps.
Im having issues with the immediate shaft reaching to the steering column. Any ideas on how to get the shaft closer? Frame is lifted all the way up. Not sure.. thank you
If you are referring to the steering lock J tool, then yes you need to lock the steering wheel. You don't necessarily need the tool I showed as there are other alternatives to lock the steering wheel.
I'm a little late, but i recently had a new rack installed and still need a new bushing, since the rack itself shifts during alignments, where exactly is the rack and pinion bushing in relation to everything?
If you had a new rack installed it should have included new bushings. The bushings are attached to the rack bracket that connects to the subframe. Im guessing if the rack is moving then the bracket attached to the rack is either broken or the bolts are not tight.
I believe its required to lower the subframe, however I have never not tried to lower it to see if there is an alternative. For sure you need some additional room as the rack will not slide out as it fits in there pretty tight when assembled. You could maybe try to raise the engine and transmission to get more clearance, however not sure if this method will give you the needed clearance. The subframe route would be the easiest route if you can get some jack stands to help support the frame. Good luck.
That is a tie rod end not the steering knuckle... What you think is a knuckle is called a spindle. Knuckles are used on the front axle if a four wheel drive vehicle...named as sych because they look like a knuckle on your hand.
On this front wheel drive GM vehicle the steering knuckle is one unit that holds the wheel bearing and connects to the tie rod end and other suspension parts. When replacing the unit GM refers to this as a knuckle not a spindle. With that said, they are often talked about as being the same thing. I went back and viewed the tie rod installation to make sure I didn't misspeak somewhere...I talked about removing the tie rod ends from the knuckle which is how GM refers to both.
Typically I buy factory GM parts for most repairs, however in regard to steering hoses GM has discontinued all of them for the 3800. Of the available steering hoses for this car, Gates is about the only one that also produces factory steering/hose parts for over 30 OE manufactures. In fact, a lot of cars coming off the assembly line have Gates hoses restamped as genuine parts. Not sure if there is a better aftermarket product out there for hoses on this car (plus they come with lifetime warranty).
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CRAFTSMAN CMMT99434 1/2-IN DR TORQUE WRENCH CMMT99434: amzn.to/3I8E6pU
Cardone 97-1003 New Rack and Pinion Assembly: amzn.to/3WtpGcm
ESCO 10498 Jack Stand, 3 Ton Capacity (BEST Jack Stands on the market!): amzn.to/3JL2K0w
Bro! You just saved my day with this video. I just wrapped up this whole adventure, replacing everything and the torque specs, diagrams and tips.. spot on my guy, thank you 😊
Glad you liked the video, and good to hear you were able to get yours replaced! Thanks for watching!
lol this has taken me on and off 5 years ty for this video im almost done
As long as the job gets done that's all that matters! Glad I was able to help!
5 years LMAO
Very thorough. I'm really impressed with your camera shots.
Thank you I greatly appreciate it! It's definitely something I have been working on over the last year trying to get better.
I've done two of these now. Can be done, but by no means are they easy.
I would consider this job more tedious than hard. Sometimes it can be overwhelming to complete a job like this but something as simple as telling someone they can easily do the job it is all it takes for them to attempt AND complete the job. It's how I did my first engine swap 20+ years ago when my dad told me I can do it very easily as long as I pay attention to the detail.
Honestly this is the comment I need in my life right now
You can also lock the steering wheel with the seatbelt around the wheel.
Thats a good idea!
Great video. I'm having issues putting the intermediate shaft cover back on.
Glad you liked the video! In regard to the cover, it should easily slide down and pop over the lip on the bottom. If it's not, Im assuming it's not around the base on the back...best way I can describe is if you ever connected a throttle body hose on a throttle body. You can see that the top of the hose is over the lip on the throttle body, but not the bottom so you have to feel down there to make sure the entire hose is around the lip on the throttle body. Do that same thing on this intermediate shaft cover to make sure its fully around the lip, then grab the cover and pull it down till it goes past the lip and is connected. Hope this helps.
Thank you.
@@davidhello3821No problem glad I was able to help.
Very thorough tutorial, thank you!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this video. One small note, not sure if you mentioned to cap the return line on the pump before filling the reservoir and flushing. I noted you had a stub cap on the return line on the pump which was orange coloured.
Glad you liked it! You're correct, the return line on the ps pump must be capped so the fluid doesn't pour out of the reservoir while adding ps fluid. The orange cap seen on mine will come installed on a new pump (I replaced in this video, if not replacing make sure to cap the reservoir return line). After done flushing, remove the return line cap on the reservoir and quickly attach the return line. Thanks for pointing out as I forgot to mention.
Nice descriptive video.
One thing I noticed was that you didn't bend the cotter key over fully. If you leave it sticking down like that either you or someone else (alignment guy) will slit their wrist or the back of their hand.
Bend it over fully and trim the excess.
Yea it probably is a good idea to trim the end. Thanks for pointing out.
Thanks, just wanted a clearer view of the power steering system.. looks similar to my Buick with a 3.8.
Glad I was able to help! Thanks for watching.
Ended up having to do the rack after all, some dingus cross threaded the subframe bolt and hammered it all the way home.. much bigger job than anticipated 😅
@@ryanfaulkes4573 Sorry to hear that as that is always frustrating when someone carelessly uses impact. Glad you got it done!
Thank you for this video, is certainly not difficult to replace this part!
Glad you liked it! Agreed this job may seem intimidating but with a little patience it's definitely something that can be done easily.
Does the front drivers wheel SHAKING EXCESSIVELY CAUSED BY MY rack and pinion???
I doubt the rack is bad, as you typically loose power steering with a loud humming noise coming from the ps pump. If the actual wheel is shaking, it could be a number of things but I would first start by jacking up vehicle, hold the tire at 9 & 3 and 12 & 6 and see if you can feel any movement. If so, your wheel bearing/hub is bad as I had the same exact issue on this 04 GP in this video (see this video th-cam.com/video/6HKU2yVuhBg/w-d-xo.html). Also check the CV axle as a bad halfshaft can cause vibration as well. If the steering wheel is shaking, first rule out warped rotors...to verify, while going down the highway and feel the vibration, apply the brakes and see if the vibration changes. If so, its your rotors (th-cam.com/video/ThBdaJY0Qes/w-d-xo.html). Tie rod ends and unbalanced tires could also cause vibration felt in the steering wheel (th-cam.com/video/ORWQi6TARmE/w-d-xo.html). Hope this helps.
You spoke about replacing lines while you have the rack pinion out. Which lines are you talking about the lions they connect to the pump
The lines I was referring to are the ones that connect the rack to the pump. The same pressure and return lines that connect to the power steering pump connect to the steering rack. While you have the rack out, it makes replacing these lines a lot easier and is something I typically do when replacing a rack and pinion.
The alignment of the steering input shaft of my new rack and old rack do not match. My steering wheel is straight. The new rack says it was centered at the factory. Am I correct that I need to adjust the new steering rack to the correct position before installing?
Correct, you need to align before you install otherwise you wont be able to attach to the intermediate shaft. Sometimes you will need to adjust the new rack by about 20 degrees. Anything more than that make sure you line up with the old rack and adjust the right way (you will notice one side is longer than the corresponding side on the old rack). Hope this helps and good luck.
Excellent descriptive video. Thanks
Glad I was able to help. Thanks for watching!
Hi, TeamDIYNow Can I have all torques needed to have this job done. Kind regards!
Hello, please see the chapters in the description for each installation step where I show the torque specs.
Chris Fix quality work and video. great job and thank you for sharing
Glad you liked it and thank you for the kind words!
Do you know the length of the power steering mounting bolts last people who were trying to do it lost them and can’t find it anywhere
Here are the part numbers for the driver side subframe to steering gear: GM part 11588640 (M12X1.75X80,64 THREAD) and the mounting nut is: 11588541. The passenger side has a smaller head, but for some reason I can't seem to find the part number. I believe you should be able to use the same size for both holes, if I remember right the only difference was the head was a different size. This site shows the part numbers but not sure if they are actually in stock: www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2004-pontiac-grand_prix/front_suspension_steering/steering_system_related_parts.html . Hope this helps.
Im having issues with the immediate shaft reaching to the steering column. Any ideas on how to get the shaft closer? Frame is lifted all the way up. Not sure.. thank you
The steering column connection does move some, you should be able to reach up there and pull it down and position over the shaft.
I have a 2007 Chevy Impala does this car required at anti-lock pin tool to replace the rack and pinion
If you are referring to the steering lock J tool, then yes you need to lock the steering wheel. You don't necessarily need the tool I showed as there are other alternatives to lock the steering wheel.
@@TeamDIYNow thank you
@@mrhamburger6936 No problem, glad I was able to help.
I'm a little late, but i recently had a new rack installed and still need a new bushing, since the rack itself shifts during alignments, where exactly is the rack and pinion bushing in relation to everything?
If you had a new rack installed it should have included new bushings. The bushings are attached to the rack bracket that connects to the subframe. Im guessing if the rack is moving then the bracket attached to the rack is either broken or the bolts are not tight.
@@TeamDIYNow Awesome sauce, thank you. I'll get her up on the lift this week and check it out.
No problem glad I was able to help. Good luck!
Thanks! Appreciate the vid!
Glad I was able to help. Thanks for watching!
Good video 👍
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.
Would I be able to do this without dropping the subframe? I don’t have anything else to hold it up
I believe its required to lower the subframe, however I have never not tried to lower it to see if there is an alternative. For sure you need some additional room as the rack will not slide out as it fits in there pretty tight when assembled. You could maybe try to raise the engine and transmission to get more clearance, however not sure if this method will give you the needed clearance. The subframe route would be the easiest route if you can get some jack stands to help support the frame. Good luck.
That is a tie rod end not the steering knuckle... What you think is a knuckle is called a spindle. Knuckles are used on the front axle if a four wheel drive vehicle...named as sych because they look like a knuckle on your hand.
On this front wheel drive GM vehicle the steering knuckle is one unit that holds the wheel bearing and connects to the tie rod end and other suspension parts. When replacing the unit GM refers to this as a knuckle not a spindle. With that said, they are often talked about as being the same thing. I went back and viewed the tie rod installation to make sure I didn't misspeak somewhere...I talked about removing the tie rod ends from the knuckle which is how GM refers to both.
I won't ever knowingly use a Gates product again on my vehicle. They're quality is below expected par.
Typically I buy factory GM parts for most repairs, however in regard to steering hoses GM has discontinued all of them for the 3800. Of the available steering hoses for this car, Gates is about the only one that also produces factory steering/hose parts for over 30 OE manufactures. In fact, a lot of cars coming off the assembly line have Gates hoses restamped as genuine parts. Not sure if there is a better aftermarket product out there for hoses on this car (plus they come with lifetime warranty).
@@TeamDIYNowGuess u r a mechanic...hope mine will be fixed on Monday 😢😢😢🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
@@paulsoutbackgardenaustrali7674 Good luck hopefully you get your car back soon!