Steve you make it look so easy...definitely a two crew for that job...but have in the past made do with a 2 x 4 block of wood and a lot of patience...thanks for sharing...cheers!!
Cheers buddy, I’ve done the way you’ve said too but using a breaker bar on the pedal and pumping it with that, then holding the pedal with the bar jammed between the pedal and seat to hold down. Or gravity bleeding sometimes work too, glade you enjoyed the video. Cheers Steve
Can you still able get a bleeding kit? Or failing that use a length of rubber/plastic hose and a jam jar with some fluid in bottom of it; using either of these methods makes it a one man job.
Thanks for that. It was a bodge but to be fair a kind of high class quite stable bodge! I didn't really see the config of the bleed nipple on the cylinder so perhaps there is a reason why this cant be done and forgive me if I am therefore stating the obvious but I've always done it this way. If you slip a ring spanner over the nipple and then a piece of clear (suitable diameter) tubing over the nipple and the other end of it immersed in an inch of brake fluid in the bottom of a jam jar you can bleed it without all the mess and the comms between the pedal pusher and the flat capped man underneath. You'll see when the fluid runs clear of bubbles, no mess on the car or the flat cap/eyes and you can periodically lock off the bleeder with the ring spanner without disconnection of the tube, leaving it in the fluid and then re run the fluid from the jam jar through the master cylinder to make sure absolutely no bubbles are left in the full hydraulic circuit. Less risk of sucking in air too as both ends of the loop are immersed in liquid. Like I said, apologies if I am singing to the choir so to speak.
Yeah I know what yours saying and it's a much cleaner way of doing it rather than getting a face full of brake fluid. It's not to say I have never done it that way I have, whats the expression there more than one way to skin a cat 👍
Nice job steve,,,,,you two make a good team,,,,!!! Made me laugh as you were driving at the end of the video,,,, If you got it !!!! I had to replace the master clutch cylinder last spring,,,,these little cars are such a gem,,,,,!!!! Take care steve,,,,enjoy the driving season,,,
Cheers Doug, Phil gives me a lot of encouragement with the videos, and he does work well with me. So there will be many more videos to come with Phil on them
Hello Steve,,,,,,I'll look forward to your future videos..... I'm headed out for a drive this afternoon in the TR6,,, first real sunny day we have had this spring,,,plenty of rain,,, Take care,,,,enjoy your car
Cheers Doug, its been a bit hit and miss with the weather this side of the pond. Fortunately I've judge it right with the TR and not been caught in it, but today not too good so its saying in the garage. Hope you have a great time out in your 6. All the Best Steve
I might have to do this myself. Sometimes the pedal goes near the floor, but a pump will bring it back to normal. Not using any fluid. Also I’m new to the car and am not sure what brake or clutch fluid the previous owner used. Is there a “ universal “ type fluid I can use ? Thank you , nice video!
I am a total novice. I purchased my father's '74 TR6 a couple years back that he bought new in "74, and it now has a leaking slave cyclinder that I will try to replace. Can you help me understand why the fluid was squirting out after the new install (around 5:00) and what you did to stop it?
That's awesome to hear that you've got back your fathers car. No probs, what's happening at 5:00 is, I have the slave cylinder bleed nipple open all the time, and I have my thumb lightly put over the bleed nipple hole to stop the fluid coming out, and air going in. As I instruct Phil to push down on the clutch pedal fluid is forced out of the slave cylinder, and it overwhelms my thumbs pressure on the slave bleed nipple, hence you see the fluid squirting all over the place. Then when I tell Phil to go up, my thumb is covering the bleed nipple stopping air going back up into the system. The process is repeated up down up down up down, until I feel a good amount of pressure overwhelm my thumb. Then I lock off (tighen up) the slave cylinder bleed nipple with Phil holding the clutch pedal in the down position, and then ask Phil how the pedel feels, It'll either feel right or spongy or nothing. If nothing or spongy further bleeding will need to occur. You can also do gravity bleeding, or use a piece of tubing which is a little less messy. The way I've done it is just quick and easy if there two of you to bleed it. Don't forget to clean up any fluid afterward, it can be a right bugger to paintwork. Hope this all help you. Cheers Steve
@@SteveDentonClassics , thank you! I did not realize there was a bleed nipple as I haven't received the new part yet to look at. Your detailed help will be a huge grace in getting this cold-hearted beast back on the road. Many thanks, friend.
You very welcome, keep an eye on my channel, I'm always uploading new things that maybe help you along the way. All the best with your father's TR6, you'll soon have her rawing again. Cheers Steve
So very true, why they changed them on modern cars to internal ones beggars belief, but like most things I guess its about about cost savings, until they leak and its a box out job
Clutch pedal to the floor. Black gunk in bottom of master. Replacing master and slave to be safe. Steve, are there chances copper tube may be gunked up. Can it be cleaned ? Should I replace in your revered opinion? Thanks Henry
Cheers David, they are the ones made by Moss Europe, and instead of riveting them to the chassis I used self tappers. It' just a better idea for maintenance rather than drilling out rivets 👍
Hi! Nice video! I was just wondering whether you closed the nipple each time right before the pedal went up again. Or didn’t you? Can’t see to see it well enough in the video. Many thanks!
Hi mate, no I didn't. What I did was a bit of a messy way of doing it. With my finger permanently covering the nipple while its open I called out to Phil up and down a few times with the pedal. Air cannot get in as my finger as its covering the nipple on the return stroke, and on the down stroke the pressure Phil put on the clutch overwhelms my finger and therefore bleeding the clutch of air. On the last down stoke, I close off the nipple on the down stroke and get Phil to check it works ok. It is a messy way of doing it, so cleaning up excess clutch fluid afterwards is a must. I hope this helps, cheers Steve
Steve Denton that is a clear explanation! But you could have done it by closing the nipple right before Phill let the pedal go up again. Correct? Many thanks for reaching out!
Beautiful Car, great video. I recommend, though, when working with clutch fluid, you cover every area of the car paint. Also, when working with clutch fluid wear gloves. Keep the chemical off your hands. Other than that, very informative video.
Cheers Pat glade you like it. Yeah brake fluid is like paint stripper if left to its own devises, I did wash around the area after with plenty of water after the job 😎
Hi Steve, great video. I just bought a 72 TR6. Question: where is the clutch supposed to release? Mine goes pretty much to the floor. It doesn't feel spongy, is there an adjustment meant to the slave, the rod seems to have a lock but and threads, is it adjustable?
Cheers mate, The clutch should bite about midway, a low clutch could indicate something is worn or you have a leak. I've got a aftermarket adjustable clutch slave push rod available from Moss Europe in mine. They just take out some of the slack in the clutch system and are a little better than the stock none adjustable push rod and they give you some adjustment to get the pedal how you want it. A common fault the TR clutch is with the folk pivot pin in the gearbox to sheer. But I'd go though the whole system logically first. So make sure you have no leaks, and the hydraulics are bleed, so there no air in it. If all is good take a look at the pedal, is the pivot on the pedal to the master cylinder worn? (they do wear and elongate on the clevis pin, you can just weld them up and re drill them) and what condition are the bushes for the pedal in? If that good then I'll be a case of taking the gearbox out. Take a look at the folk pivot to see of it sheered, and the make sure the folk pivot bushes are in good condition, again they do wear and cause a bad pedal. the clutch folk itself can bend so again check it. The clutch release bearing you get those days are normally made of cheese and fall apart, so if you replace it get a decent one, and lastly if you do need to replace the clutch go for a laycock. Borg and Beck clutches tend to snatch and don't give much travel in the biting. I hope this all help. Cheers Steve
@@SteveDentonClassics there is definitely something wrong with my clutch, if it's supposed to bite midway, I can feel the carpet when I shift. I'll go thru the clutch system as you suggested. Thank you for your help. Subscribed :-)
Steve, when you removed the existing slave, you had two spacer nuts. With the replacement you did not use them. For what reason did you have them with the old slave? Thanks, Graham
Hi Graham, the spacer nuts were my own bodge on the old slave to keep the old slave sealed and keep it working until I brought and fitted the new one. Spacing the slave further back just allows the movement to happen deeper within the slave therefore sealing it better as a temp measure. Hope this answers you question Cheers Steve
On Spitfires and GT6's the best way I've found to do them is to take the transmission tunnel out, due to the tight space and locating the push rod its just difficult to do them from underneath, Spitfires and GT6's also have a type of different gearbox to the TR's so the positioning of the slave cylinder is cramped up much higher in the bell housing. I see your videos mate, your GT6 is coming along nicely
@@SteveDentonClassics Oh, yes I implied that you need to take the tunnel out. Clearly from your video the two transmissions are different, I was just surprised. Thanks.
I just use DOT 4, you can read up things on DOT 5 and silicone brake fluid, they can be better, but DOT 4 is readily available if your in the middle of no where and get a leak. Also they are built to run with DOT 3-4 so it's good enough for me 👍
Perfect video on this! I am eternally grateful.
Your welcome, glade you enjoyed watching 👍
Steve you make it look so easy...definitely a two crew for that job...but have in the past made do with a 2 x 4 block of wood and a lot of patience...thanks for sharing...cheers!!
Cheers buddy, I’ve done the way you’ve said too but using a breaker bar on the pedal and pumping it with that, then holding the pedal with the bar jammed between the pedal and seat to hold down. Or gravity bleeding sometimes work too, glade you enjoyed the video. Cheers Steve
Can you still able get a bleeding kit? Or failing that use a length of rubber/plastic hose and a jam jar with some fluid in bottom of it; using either of these methods makes it a one man job.
Thanks for that. It was a bodge but to be fair a kind of high class quite stable bodge! I didn't really see the config of the bleed nipple on the cylinder so perhaps there is a reason why this cant be done and forgive me if I am therefore stating the obvious but I've always done it this way. If you slip a ring spanner over the nipple and then a piece of clear (suitable diameter) tubing over the nipple and the other end of it immersed in an inch of brake fluid in the bottom of a jam jar you can bleed it without all the mess and the comms between the pedal pusher and the flat capped man underneath. You'll see when the fluid runs clear of bubbles, no mess on the car or the flat cap/eyes and you can periodically lock off the bleeder with the ring spanner without disconnection of the tube, leaving it in the fluid and then re run the fluid from the jam jar through the master cylinder to make sure absolutely no bubbles are left in the full hydraulic circuit. Less risk of sucking in air too as both ends of the loop are immersed in liquid. Like I said, apologies if I am singing to the choir so to speak.
Yeah I know what yours saying and it's a much cleaner way of doing it rather than getting a face full of brake fluid. It's not to say I have never done it that way I have, whats the expression there more than one way to skin a cat 👍
@@SteveDentonClassics sure is!
Nice job steve,,,,,you two make a good team,,,,!!! Made me laugh as you were driving at the end of the video,,,,
If you got it !!!!
I had to replace the master clutch cylinder last spring,,,,these little cars are such a gem,,,,,!!!!
Take care steve,,,,enjoy the driving season,,,
Cheers Doug, Phil gives me a lot of encouragement with the videos, and he does work well with me. So there will be many more videos to come with Phil on them
Hello Steve,,,,,,I'll look forward to your future videos.....
I'm headed out for a drive this afternoon in the TR6,,, first real sunny day we have had this spring,,,plenty of rain,,,
Take care,,,,enjoy your car
Cheers Doug, its been a bit hit and miss with the weather this side of the pond. Fortunately I've judge it right with the TR and not been caught in it, but today not too good so its saying in the garage. Hope you have a great time out in your 6. All the Best Steve
Got all of this to look forward to - and much more !
Keep at it mate, its all good fun when you hear your 6 raw again 👍
I might have to do this myself. Sometimes the pedal goes near the floor, but a pump will bring it back to normal. Not using any fluid. Also I’m new to the car and am not sure what brake or clutch fluid the previous owner used. Is there a “ universal “ type fluid I can use ? Thank you , nice video!
If it’s not using any fluid it’s more likely to be your master cylinder has failed. Any Dot 4 fluid is good for British cars 👍
Great vid guys thanks for sharing..
Your very welcome Kevin
I am a total novice. I purchased my father's '74 TR6 a couple years back that he bought new in "74, and it now has a leaking slave cyclinder that I will try to replace. Can you help me understand why the fluid was squirting out after the new install (around 5:00) and what you did to stop it?
That's awesome to hear that you've got back your fathers car. No probs, what's happening at 5:00 is, I have the slave cylinder bleed nipple open all the time, and I have my thumb lightly put over the bleed nipple hole to stop the fluid coming out, and air going in. As I instruct Phil to push down on the clutch pedal fluid is forced out of the slave cylinder, and it overwhelms my thumbs pressure on the slave bleed nipple, hence you see the fluid squirting all over the place. Then when I tell Phil to go up, my thumb is covering the bleed nipple stopping air going back up into the system. The process is repeated up down up down up down, until I feel a good amount of pressure overwhelm my thumb. Then I lock off (tighen up) the slave cylinder bleed nipple with Phil holding the clutch pedal in the down position, and then ask Phil how the pedel feels, It'll either feel right or spongy or nothing. If nothing or spongy further bleeding will need to occur. You can also do gravity bleeding, or use a piece of tubing which is a little less messy. The way I've done it is just quick and easy if there two of you to bleed it. Don't forget to clean up any fluid afterward, it can be a right bugger to paintwork. Hope this all help you. Cheers Steve
@@SteveDentonClassics , thank you! I did not realize there was a bleed nipple as I haven't received the new part yet to look at. Your detailed help will be a huge grace in getting this cold-hearted beast back on the road. Many thanks, friend.
You very welcome, keep an eye on my channel, I'm always uploading new things that maybe help you along the way. All the best with your father's TR6, you'll soon have her rawing again. Cheers Steve
@@SteveDentonClassics Just subscribed!
One of the easiest jobs, but none the less satisfying when it's done.
So very true, why they changed them on modern cars to internal ones beggars belief, but like most things I guess its about about cost savings, until they leak and its a box out job
Clutch pedal to the floor. Black gunk in bottom of master. Replacing master and slave to be safe. Steve, are there chances copper tube may be gunked up. Can it be cleaned ? Should I replace in your revered opinion? Thanks
Henry
The black gunk is likely to be the seals giving up, so it's time to replace 👍
Nice video, thanks. Love the bracket you made for the fuel / brake line etc in the background. Looks like a nice improvement from original
Cheers David, they are the ones made by Moss Europe, and instead of riveting them to the chassis I used self tappers. It' just a better idea for maintenance rather than drilling out rivets 👍
Good video, right to the point. thanks.
Your welcome mate, glade you enjoyed it
Hi! Nice video!
I was just wondering whether you closed the nipple each time right before the pedal went up again. Or didn’t you? Can’t see to see it well enough in the video.
Many thanks!
Hi mate, no I didn't. What I did was a bit of a messy way of doing it. With my finger permanently covering the nipple while its open I called out to Phil up and down a few times with the pedal. Air cannot get in as my finger as its covering the nipple on the return stroke, and on the down stroke the pressure Phil put on the clutch overwhelms my finger and therefore bleeding the clutch of air. On the last down stoke, I close off the nipple on the down stroke and get Phil to check it works ok. It is a messy way of doing it, so cleaning up excess clutch fluid afterwards is a must. I hope this helps, cheers Steve
Steve Denton that is a clear explanation! But you could have done it by closing the nipple right before Phill let the pedal go up again. Correct?
Many thanks for reaching out!
Oh yes closing the nipple off would do the same thing 👍🏻
Beautiful Car, great video. I recommend, though, when working with clutch fluid, you cover every area of the car paint. Also, when working with clutch fluid wear gloves. Keep the chemical off your hands. Other than that, very informative video.
Cheers Pat glade you like it. Yeah brake fluid is like paint stripper if left to its own devises, I did wash around the area after with plenty of water after the job 😎
Hi Steve, great video. I just bought a 72 TR6. Question: where is the clutch supposed to release? Mine goes pretty much to the floor. It doesn't feel spongy, is there an adjustment meant to the slave, the rod seems to have a lock but and threads, is it adjustable?
Cheers mate, The clutch should bite about midway, a low clutch could indicate something is worn or you have a leak. I've got a aftermarket adjustable clutch slave push rod available from Moss Europe in mine. They just take out some of the slack in the clutch system and are a little better than the stock none adjustable push rod and they give you some adjustment to get the pedal how you want it. A common fault the TR clutch is with the folk pivot pin in the gearbox to sheer. But I'd go though the whole system logically first. So make sure you have no leaks, and the hydraulics are bleed, so there no air in it. If all is good take a look at the pedal, is the pivot on the pedal to the master cylinder worn? (they do wear and elongate on the clevis pin, you can just weld them up and re drill them) and what condition are the bushes for the pedal in? If that good then I'll be a case of taking the gearbox out. Take a look at the folk pivot to see of it sheered, and the make sure the folk pivot bushes are in good condition, again they do wear and cause a bad pedal. the clutch folk itself can bend so again check it. The clutch release bearing you get those days are normally made of cheese and fall apart, so if you replace it get a decent one, and lastly if you do need to replace the clutch go for a laycock. Borg and Beck clutches tend to snatch and don't give much travel in the biting. I hope this all help. Cheers Steve
@@SteveDentonClassics there is definitely something wrong with my clutch, if it's supposed to bite midway, I can feel the carpet when I shift. I'll go thru the clutch system as you suggested.
Thank you for your help. Subscribed :-)
Steve, when you removed the existing slave, you had two spacer nuts. With the replacement you did not use them. For what reason did you have them with the old slave?
Thanks, Graham
Hi Graham, the spacer nuts were my own bodge on the old slave to keep the old slave sealed and keep it working until I brought and fitted the new one. Spacing the slave further back just allows the movement to happen deeper within the slave therefore sealing it better as a temp measure. Hope this answers you question Cheers Steve
Steve Denton that's what I thought, thanks
Interesting. On the GT6 (and maybe Spitfire) you can do it from inside the cabin. (Ask me how I know!)
On Spitfires and GT6's the best way I've found to do them is to take the transmission tunnel out, due to the tight space and locating the push rod its just difficult to do them from underneath, Spitfires and GT6's also have a type of different gearbox to the TR's so the positioning of the slave cylinder is cramped up much higher in the bell housing. I see your videos mate, your GT6 is coming along nicely
@@SteveDentonClassics Oh, yes I implied that you need to take the tunnel out. Clearly from your video the two transmissions are different, I was just surprised. Thanks.
Steve what DOT clutch fluid did you use on your TR ? Thanks in advance
I just use DOT 4, you can read up things on DOT 5 and silicone brake fluid, they can be better, but DOT 4 is readily available if your in the middle of no where and get a leak. Also they are built to run with DOT 3-4 so it's good enough for me 👍
@@SteveDentonClassics thank you
You're welcome 👍
and dont forget to vote lol
It’s in the post 😉