4X5 Lens Anatomy (Parts and Large Format Leaf Shutter Use)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
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Large format lenses often seem daunting and confusing at first because they look and are operated differently from typical camera lenses. This video looks at the different parts of a camera lens, dissects and lens, and then discusses how to use all the different parts of a large format leaf shutter.
Video Index:
Skip the Intro: 0:15
Large Format Barrel Lenses: 0:37
Large Format Leaf Shutter Lenses: 2:02
Like this Video and Subscribe to the David Hancock Channel: 10:07
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This is the stuff that I (as a beginner 4x5 user) needs to know, especially knowing that the lens and shutter separate.
Thank you!
Very helpful thanks
Thank you!
You should do your camera overviews on this table. Much nicer lighting.
Oh, man, I wish I could. This space closes at 6PM and I usually start filming between 7PM and 8PM. But, I did find a better lighting solution for my tabletop (the 4X5 film back video was filmed using it and it look a lot better.) So two more weeks of the previous setup and then the video quality will improve.
Very nice video. My knowledge on large format cameras is poor. Thank you.
Thank you!
Very helpful ! thank you so much
This channel is a gem. Detailed, yet to the point, and easy to understand explanation.
Thank you, David. You are definitely on the right track.
Thank you, Khalid!
Thanks David, love the detail and I especially liked how hard to you had to wrench the lens away from the shutter. I wasn't sure how much pressure to apply but following your lead I was able to remove mine. Really good video, thank you.
Thank you, Sile!
Picked up a 4x5 Intrepid and am giving large format a chance. This was very helpful. My 210 lens also has a X-M toggle on it next to the shutter release area. What is that?
That's for the flash sync. Unless you're using a flash with interchangeable bulbs (I'm guessing you're not) then just leave it in X. M will give you incorrect flash sync timing with standard flashes.
Can the screw set/trigger be changed? I was gifted a 90mm F8 lens but the screw set is stripped and I can only use the lens obviously with a faster shutter since I can NOT attached a shutter release cable to it, thanks in advance.
You might be able to get a repair. Flutot's Camera is the place to ask.
Superb video. Thank you for showing the action of the large format shutter/ aperture behaviour with the lens OFF! This makes the operation SO much easier to understand. Appreciate the bird's eye viewpoint too - great tutorial!
Does what it says on the tin! (That's a compliment in England, it means "you delivered").
Thank you!
very interesting!
Thank you!
Such a big help I have few lenses with different types of shutters and I cant find any info or video about the different types of shutters.. maybe you can also make.a video about old brass lenses and how to mount it ..hownto use it ..how to use the waterstops..I got two Taylor hobson cooke lenses (process lenses ) what are processes lenses and where would you use these types of lenses..Im.having hard time mounting them because of the odd size and its very hard to find the flange or retaining ring .. amazing video I'm s big fan of your videos .. i am a better photographer because of watching your videos.
Leo Alejandro also need to find the proper thread size, not just diameter size, in many cases too!
Maybe you find a guy who can 3 d print the ring. With all the measurements it will be no problem.
Thank you and I can try. Mounting process lenses (these are a type of barrel lens, like the Dallmeyer Pentac early in the video) is hard. SK Grimes performs that work, but it's not cheap. A cheap solution would be to find a shutter of the right size. You'd need a clear opening larger than the front of the lens (this is the hardest part as leaf shutters are meant to be placed where the light rays in the lens are at their most compact.) Here's a table to help with identifying the right sizes: www.sizes.com/tools/shutter_photo.htm
Complicating that, you'd need to affix the shutter to the front of the lens using either the cell threads or, more easily, the retaining ring threads. In the latter case, you'd need to use step-up and -down rings but note that step rings have a thread pitch of 1mm, leaf shutter rings have a thread pitch of 0.75mm (for the common shutter types, others are measures in Imperial units and finding step rings for those will be effectively impossible.)
So depending on your financial situation, it may be more expensive to have SK Grimes do the work, but it would almost certainly take far less time and be much less of a headache. Basically, the stars would have to align perfectly to find an easy and inexpensive solution.
That could work, too, but the ring would probably need to be press fit and that could lead to the fit being unreliable with time.
We can I get a Fuji 65mm f8 lens?
Bay, KEH, Adorama, and B&H are your best bets.
If I have a Nikon lens board with a fuginon 150mm lens, what is the best way to fit it to a toyo 4x5 camera? I can't find an adapter anywhere - would it work to buy a toyo 150mm lens and board and swap it in?
It's almost always easier in 4X5 to buy the system lens board, yes. It's a bit frustrating to shoot multiple 4X5 systems, but it's easy.
Although theres one question i have. At 4:07 you say that for a different lens, you'd have to change the aperture numbers on the shutter accordingly, how exactly would you do that?
That's harder today than it used to be. Basically you'd remove the scale on the shutter and put on a new one. That process is simple. Finding the correct scale or a company to engrave a new scale now is much harder. SK Grimes will, but I don't know of others.
Seriously, the clearest explanation of large format lenses on youtube. I've watched maybe 10 videos on the same subject and only now have i been taught that you can use different lenses on different shutters and that the aperture blades are in the shutter and not the lens itself. Thanks so much
Thank you!
Thank you David. I was inspired with your video to dismantle my Schneider Super Angulon 5.6/75. All OK with front part of the lens. I've unscrewed it, as shown in your video Unfortunately, I cannot remove rear part. Looks like it has a different coupling, than front one. If you know HOW-TO, please, advise me what to be done to complete process. I will appreciate your efforts to train people like me . Thanks a lot again.
Curious. It shouldn't. Two quick questions.
1- Did you take the retaining ring off first?
2- Is it in a horeseman lensboard? Those are different than the ones in this video.
@@DavidHancock It seems to me, that I can get access to retaining ring by removing rear glass of lens as it incorporated into it...???. I've got LINHOF lensboard with recess . ??? Thank you, David.
@2:00 or a Packard Shutter!
Oh, yes, good call. I'd forgotten about those.
I’m really tempted to get a LF camera, and I'm finding this series fascinating. It’s not the weight that bothers me, I’ve learnt workarounds for that. I use a 7DII with a battery grip and the Sigma 150-600 for wildlife and push it upright with my mobility scooter. It’s the range of body movement that worries me, setting the lens etc which can be very painful and tiring even with my ERTSi.
I'll vouch that you are superb at answering comments, one of the very best on TH-cam. A brilliant and informative video David, thank you.
Thank you, Mark.
So I totally get it about the movements. They have a lot of uses that, when I do my movements video, I won't be able to completely explain and do justice to. I just don't use them enough. But, I will be doing a video about movements to show how different movements affect an image. In my upcoming Anniversary Graphic manual, I note that press cameras are, basically, perfect first 4X5 cameras because they have limited movements. So it's easy to learn what the basic (rise, shit, and sometimes tilt) movements on the front standard do. From there, it's easier to extrapolate rear movements and then swing is basically lateral tilt.A camera's movements shouldn't have it curled up like a dead worm on the sidewalk. They should be much more subtle to be truly effective.
David Hancock I found your typo quite amusing.
It’s not so much learning the movements that worries me, it’s the impact physically doing them would have on my physical difficulties. If I bought one I'm not sure I would do it justice, a bit like buying a Canon 1DXII and leaving it in automatic.
Good catch and thank you. YT wouldn't let me edit my comment, for some reason. Anyway, if you want to try movements without an LF camera, there's an easy way to do it. I made my first tilt-shift (T-S) macro bellows out of two tripod ball heads ($15 ea.), a macro focusing slider rail ($5.50, I think), and a no-name bellows ($21.) I took the bellows portion off the bellows assembly, screwed the front and rear to a ball head, and then mounted the ball heads on the macro rail (or I did it in reverse, I forget.) That let me use the ball heads to create movements. Using a medium-format lens (sometimes a simple single-element lens that I picked up at surplus Shed) I had infinity focus and movements. That worked well even though the movements weren't on the optical axis.
Later I made a full-on T-S macro bellows with full functional front and rear standards and proper, on-axis movements out of commercially available off-the-shelf (COTS) parts. BUT, the ball head model was much easier to use and did about 80% of the more complex model's capabilities. So a ball head T-S bellows may be worth a thought.
David Hancock That’s a great idea, I already have a decent set of rails Hazel (wife) bought me, and I’ve been meaning to get some bellows to try and get 1:4 with my Canon L 100mm f2.8 macro and tubes.