Wow. I’ve seen so many “instructional” videos where the photographer spends 1/2 the time just making personal observations, walking around a beach or an open field looking for a perfect shot, or, worse, packing his gear and then driving to a location. Not here, though. Your video is straight and to the point. It’s actually full of useful information and not fluff. Thank you.
Todd, you are a natural teacher. All your videos are well paced, and give just enough detail without going over-long. Please keep it up. Lots of us out here appreciate what you're doing.
This is a fantastic video! I’m new to LF and was struggling to make sense of lenses. There’s not many videos on the subject and none that I’ve found that break things down this easy to understand. Thank you for sharing!
E. Aaron Ross For my stuff I just want to get to the point and give photographers some insight and info. I’m not a fan of a lot of filler stuff in videos. Thanks for watching!
Todd, great video's please keep it up. I have been a professional photographer for 29 years and started shooting commercial work on 4x5 & 8x10 cameras. I then went through the whole digital phase and now I am looking to slow things down and start using a field camera. hoping to pick up a Linhof Technika this week.
This is such a great channel. Although I am an experienced photographer, I have yet to get around to shooting large format. Your channel has everything the beginner needs to help them get started. Thank you 🙂
Thank you for this very engaging, and well informed video. Q1). If buying a used lens, what are the signs to look for? Q2). Do LF lenses reside with the same shutter all the time? Q3). Do lens/shutters need a periodic service? Q4). Are there any lenses with maintenance issues that we should try to avoid? Thank you, Todd 👍
I only have one lens for my 5x4. Schneider Xenar 135mm 4.7. 40mm equivalent. I don't use shift. Front tilt only. The shutter is accurate at all speeds. No T setting so I use a lockable release.
Awesomeness! Thanks again Todd. You should the budget lens board I made for a 162mm. Not pretty... but it’s light tight. (Basically theft proof... no one would want it)
Great simple and informative. I would like to see a more detailed video on correctly mounting a lens on a board. Or removing an old one that doesn't want to come off!
Todd, thank you for your great videos. Seeking sharp negatives, should I insist on a lens that closes down to f/64, or is that not an important factor?
Hi Todd, you got me confused at the 2:00 to 2:10 mark. It looks like the lens has a shutter speed range of 500th to 1 second yet you say 400th to 1 second. Also you say the first part while the len is set to 1 second and the next part at 15th of a second. Am I missing something? Thanks, Jim.
Lens boards are easy to make from wood or plastic because you can easily cut and drill the holes you need with a hole cutter, just use a file to file corner of top and bottom into a wedge. Aluminum works too but drilling requires good metal hole drillbits.
Todd, Very nice, succinct, and thorough vid. Please keep making them. When I had my studio, I shot mostly with a 4x5 Calumet and a 'blad. 500C/M. They were the workhorses of studio. I sometimes borrowed an 8x10, and the Nikons usually stayed in their cases. In future vids, you might mention the use of the cut corners of the ground glass to check circle coverage. After a many year hiatus from photography, I recently acquired a Sinar Norma with a 210 Symmar-S, multi-coated & f5.6. The Sinar needs new pads in the parts gripping the rail. Does anyone know who can replace them?
on the issue of long lenses, perhaps a recommendation, in addition to yours, that is camera selection, the 240, 300,360 and longer lenses might be better attached to a monorail, as these, like the sinar F2\P2 or Arca Swiss F-line have dual rail clamps allowing the weight to be more evenly distributed when in long mode, also this allows the long rail to be managed more safely on two tripods, or on a more stable Optical bench system, the more rigid the less vibration, esp. with these long lenses, and in windy conditions too.
@@toddkorolphoto another point here, if field cameras are your thing go for "telephoto" lens designations, as they have less infinity distance, than the focal length would imply, saving on bellows ext. and also for more restricted focus tracks of field and press cameras, facilitates easier focussing, as you aren't too near the hard stops.
nice video, also on the subject of storing lenses there are other options, linhof makes a camera case for their tecknika cameras, which has a slotted draw for lens storage, the slots allow the board to fit in, and it stabilises the lens in the case ( bit like the screw box tackle cases diy'ers have for screws, or fisherman have for their lures).
Those are nice cases for sure. I know a guy who has a new Linhof 3000 with a full set of lenses, all cammed and all the accessories with a new case. It’s lovely.
Very informative video about large format lenses. Lots of useful information. One thing though that could be added is to show how to attach a lens to a lens board. That is something that I still don't know how to do. I have researched a fair amount about large format photography but so far, Ive never seen any kind of instructions for attaching LF lenses to lens boards so that aspect is still a mystery to me.
I am running into trouble . I have a 4x5 and shoot a 65mm a 90mm and a 210mm. Problem is the jump between 90mm and 210mm is too much. So I think I am going to find a good Nikkor 150mm to match my other lenses which are Nikkors. Or if I find a good 120mm whatever at a good price grab one of those. I was shooting ferns straight below my tripod and the 90mm was just to wide didn’t give me the look I wanted. The 210mm looked perfect except I couldn’t get all of the ferns in the Shot. Even at full tripod extension.
Terry, Nikon certainly made great large format glass, but so did Fuji. Watch for Fujinon 150mm lenses on eBay and the Large Format Photography Forum's *For Sale* page. I own several Fujinon f/5.6 lenses and they are excellent.
I am trying to collect a good line of lenses. I have a 65mm 90mm and 210mm. All Nikkor lenses. I want to add a 150 and 300mm next. The lens I most use is the 90mm and close behind it the 210mm right now. I have fallen head over hills for my Chamonix F1 4x5 and working in the darkroom.
Terry, I also have a Chamonix 4x5" camera and have tried many so-called Technika "compatible" third party lens boards as an alternative to the excellent Chamonix (expensive) carbon fiber boards. Some brands worked well but were expensive and others didn't work because they were too thick. The best price + quality ones I've found so far are made in China by Luland and currently sell on eBay in the US for about $14 including shipping. www.ebay.com/itm/Lens-Board-Luland-Linhof-Wista-4-5in-compur-copal-1-lens-board-99-96mm-NEW/182939087113?hash=item2a9804f109:g:YRkAAOSw2cVasMGC Terry Thomas... the photographer Atlanta, Georgia USA
I'm cleaning up an old 7x11 Eastman View No. 2. What size lens should I get for doing landscapes? I have a Nikon 90mm for my 4x5, can i use it on the 7x11?
I have a Schneider 240mm and a Goertz 305mm lens and I’d like to get slightly wider than the 240mm gives, so thinking about a 210mm for my 8x10 camera - do you think there not enough difference between the 210 and 240mm?
Yeah a 240 is a much more normal view, a 210 will start to look a bit more like a wide angle lens. I have both and I can tell for sure when I go wider.
one other point you do need to consider, is lens front element size, aka filter thread, some, like my Fujinon SWD 65 and 90 mm 5.6 lenses have either an 82 or 67mm thread, so square filter systems can adapt easily, like lee, Kase K9 or others, as due to less lens coatings, ND and polarisers are essential esp. in urban and seascape shots, to reduce glare, so wide f stops can be used (as movements themselves, due to scheimflug principle, allow more dof so you don't have to stop down as far), and give portraits a Bokeh all its own, but if like most wide aperture lenses (f5.6/4/3.5) unlike standard f8/9 lenses, wider thread sizes of 95mm+ are not uncommon, so specialty filters/sets are required for a lens, esp. wides, as centre filters are used as well, to even exposure (reduce corner vignetting).
Miguel Garrido yes it sure is. We shot it having a beer in a beer garden when I was hauling around all my stuff. He’s a good friend, amazing photographer!
I really enjoyed your introduction. As an amateur, I learned a lot from it. However, I do have a question regarding my 4x5 Horseman 45FA camera and Schneider 90mm F5.6 MC Kreuznach Super Angulon Copal 0 lens. Unfortunately, the lens doesn't fit and I'm now looking for a semi-wide angle lens. My concern is that there won't be enough space to do movements. Is it possible to get maximum movement with a wide-angle lens?
Congrats Todd! This video is by far the most informative, well done and covering all relevant points about LF lenses. Very thankfull for having you sharing your knowledge and producing this super content. The other video about the LF book recommendations is brilliant as well. You have a new subscriber. Greets from Munich
I am just getting into Large Format photography (4x5). Your video is very clear, straightforward and easy to follow. I do have one question. I have an opportunity to buy a used Schneider Symmar-S 210mm f/5.6 MC lens. My question. Is that stated 210 mm focal length for a 4x5 or an 8x10 camera? When I am seeking a lens for a large format camera, how do I calculate the stated focal length for the 4x5 camera?
That 210 is for a 4x5 lens. There are many calculation tables on line that will tell you the focal lengths for the formats. Here is one. www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2Fmqa32qfw9jq91.jpg%3Fwidth%3D1500%26format%3Dpjpg%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3D5ab15bc7a72b6ea128e7df0fa5f2381e4ea2b320
Great video! I was looking for a video that explained how to use these lenses and how the levers work. My own lens (Schneider-Kreuznach 5.6/180) refuses to open the shutter unless you cock the preview lever first, cock the shutter next and then press the shutter release. I guess each lens is different.
@@creepyloner1979 yes I bought longer lenses in this past year and I actually use the short ones for close work, since they require less bellows extension and closer focus.
I've got one of the Shen Hao 6x17 Medium Format cameras....looks like a LF, but is panoramic MF. I'm buying LF lenses for it which will work when I eventually get a LF camera too. I started with the Nikkor 90mm SW f/45. Great lens so far. I"m wanting to get a decent deal on a good condition 150mm Nikkor W f/5.6 as my 'normal' lens. Shooting as wide as I am...I have to make sure that image circle will cover the 6x17 range.... Is there a good way to find what the size image circle IS on any given lens? Great video, thank you!! Please keep them coming!!
Thanks for watching! Looking forward to your images. This is a great resource I use all the time. static.bhphotovideo.com/FrameWork/Product_Resources/SourceBookProPhoto/Section04LgFormatLenses.pdf
Thanks for the info. I'm thinking about an Intrepid 8x10 mainly for wet plate out in the field hopefully. Any lens recommendations as far as focal lengths?
Great video. One thing I would like to know is how to convert coverage angle (say, 72 deg) to image circle for a given focal length/bellows extension. Taking 72 deg and a bellows extension of 135mm, for example, is the calculation of image radius simply tan(36)*135=radius? And then how does aperture factor into that? I can look up tables for this, but it would be helpful to be able to calculate. Thanks!
Since Todd has not replied, may I take a stab at answering your questions? Angle of coverage and image circle are calculated at infinity for each lens by the manufacturer. Naturally, the image circle will become larger as you extend the lens toward a closer subject. How to calculate it is far beyond my knowledge, sorry. But I will bet it has something to do with the base of a cone and the height of the cone, etc. As far as I know, the aperture selected will not change the image circle but the image *will* get sharper as you stop down - especially parts of the image that are out toward the edge. Of course, at too small of an aperture, diffraction will start to rear its ugly head. Terry Thomas... the photographer Atlanta, Georgia USA
As A matter of practicality, checking circle coverage for any lens at any particular extension can be done by using the the cut off corners of the ground glass. Not all ground glass have the corners cut off but those that do allow you to look at the edge of the image and make sure that you can see light through the lens. If not, then you've exceeded the covering power of that particular lens.
Each camera has it's own type of lens board, not sure which one you are using but a quick google search will tell you which one you need for your camera. Cheers
@@toddkorolphoto Recently, I read that some photographers use bags made for fishing reels. I would assume reels made for salt water fish since fresh water reels that I've seen are smaller.
Hi. I have a 75mm. Can I use that on my 4x5. And by what you said, if I can use it I'm going to have to use a bag bellows. Is that right. I guess my main Qn. is, is the 75mm normally compatible with a 4x5, or should I be using a larger camera? Thanks.
You can use 8x10 lenses on 4x5 cameras, you just have to be aware that some 8x10 lenses are much heavier and harder on the 4x5 front standard, and sometimes an 8x10 lens can be physically too large for the front of a 4x5. So in the end and 8x10 lens on a 4x5 can be much more difficult to work with.
Todd, thanks for putting this video together. For future videos like this, you might not want to wear a black shirt when showing black lens boards and lenses with black bodies. Just a thought. Terry Thomas... the photographer Atlanta, Georgia USA
Great video! One lingering question is when you can remove an element on a lens to make it a different focal length (called a convertible lens based on googling?) It seems like the f/stop scale changes when you do that (I have a Schneider Symmar 5.6/180 that converts to 12/315. I'll probably not use the 315 length, but are there any things to know/watch out for when using something like this? Thanks for all the great videos! I've been binge watching them. :)
Comparing 35mm camera lenses with those lenses used with a 4x5-inch view camera is not a simple matter. Both camera formats have a different aspect ratio, determined by the height and width of their respective format rectangles. These rectangles can be compared using the ratio of their format diagonals, where the diagonal of the larger format is divided by the diagonal of the smaller format. For the 35mm format, the height and width of its rectangle are 24mm by 36mm. For the 4x5-inch view camera, the height and width of its rectangle are approximately 101.6mm by 127mm. (The actual dimensions are a little less, as determined by the 4x5-inch film holder used.) Using the Pythagorean theorem, the diagonal for the 35mm format is 43.27mm and 162.64mm for the 4x5-inch format. Note that the 4x5-inch diagonal is 3.76 times longer (162.64/43.27 = 3.76) than the 35mm diagonal. The number 3.76 can then be used to divide the focal length of any 4x5-inch lens to find the equivalent 35mm focal length. Using the information above, the following list shows popular 4x5-inch lenses (listed on the left) and their corresponding 35mm focal lengths (listed on the right). 90mm = 24mm 120mm = 32mm 135mm = 36mm 150mm = 40mm 180mm = 48mm 210mm = 56mm 240mm = 64mm 300mm = 80mm
@@toddkorolphoto Comparing lenses used with different format sizes is not a completely settled issue. Some photographers claim (e.g., the late Fred Picker of Zone VI) that the format's width (in landscape mode) is more useful, and therefore more important, than using the diagonal when comparing lenses between two formats. To obtain a single number, similar to the one calculated in my last post without resorting to high school geometry, one can use the ratio between the longest side of the larger format and the longest side of smaller format. For the 35mm and 4x5 formats, that number (quotient) would be 127mm/36mm = 3.53. This number can then be used to divide the focal length of any 4x5-inch lens to find the equivalent 35mm focal length. Using the information above, the following list shows popular 4x5-inch lenses (listed on the left) and their corresponding 35mm focal lengths (listed on the right). 90mm = 25mm 120mm = 34mm 135mm = 38mm 150mm = 42mm 180mm = 51mm 210mm = 59mm 240mm = 68mm 300mm = 85mm Note that the results between the two methods of comparing format lenses are not that significant.
Well it could be done. You would need the help of a good optical engineer, they could mount it in a Canon mount, probably an FD mount then onto an adapter to the EOS mount. Probably be too expensive for what it is worth. Would be a little easier to mount it onto a mirrorless system, as they take more adapters.
Mind there are two types of 00 shutters. 1. for the old rollfilm and FF cameras, B 1 - 1/500 2. for view camera lenses, B 1 - 1/500 plus a knob for opening the shutter to focus. Beware, some Dutch photo shop swindlers deny there are two types of 00 shutters.
@@toddkorolphoto I've had a 5x7 Canham (with 4x5 and 4x10 backs) for about 35 years. Never a problem. Would prefer wooden lens boards but you can't have everything! Will be looking for your review.
@@toddkorolphoto In 55 years of large format, I've only had one board crack (due to my using too large a screw for the flange ring). If you have three or four in a backpack, there is a real weight difference.
I just bought a crown graphic and never realised how many things there are to consider haha. When purchasing a lens, how do i find out how big the image circle is? And correct me if i misunderstood, but any lens with a image circle bigger than 165mm will be enough to cover 4x5?
xesse1 you need to have a min image circle of 155mm. Depending on the lens you get, there is a lot of info on various lenses and their image circles online. But most modern lenses will cover 4x5 film wi5 room. Happy picture taking, welcome to the large format world!
@@toddkorolphoto Thanks so much, that waa really helpful! I have the 'graflex optar 135mm 4.7' lens, i cant seem to find any information online about its image circle size, do you happen to know it?
xesse1 That lens will cover 4x5 but there will not be a lot of room for movements, it will help to stop down for sure. But the Crown Graphic doesn’t have a lot of movements anyway, so you shouldn’t have a problem. It would be hard to do huge front rise with that lens keep that in mind and check your corners when you shoot. ;-)
@@xesse1 a lot of those lenses were for press photography (newspapers, wirephoto services, military, etc.) so they were not designed for lens movements. As the old expression went, "f/8 and be there!" en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C6%91/8_and_be_there
Wow. I’ve seen so many “instructional” videos where the photographer spends 1/2 the time just making personal observations, walking around a beach or an open field looking for a perfect shot, or, worse, packing his gear and then driving to a location. Not here, though.
Your video is straight and to the point. It’s actually full of useful information and not fluff. Thank you.
Thank you, that's a good point for me to remember as well. ;-)
Todd, you are a natural teacher. All your videos are well paced, and give just enough detail without going over-long. Please keep it up. Lots of us out here appreciate what you're doing.
That is very, very kind. Thank you.
I would definitely take a class by Todd... but only if it's somewhere warmer! 😉
Best Video I have seen as a beginner to large format! Thanks!!!
@@skipklein2055 great. So glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching
Getting into large format photography is really daunting at first but videos like this are really helpful at demystifying everything.
Perfect thanks. Exactly why I am making them. Good luck.
😎OMG... This is by far, the best large format video ever. Thanks you so much
That's great to hear, thanks for watching.
Another informative video for those of us who know nothing about large format cameras. Thanks, Todd.
Glad it was helpful.
This video is clear, simple and absolutely brilliant introduction to this kind of photography. Thank you.
Thank you so much Victor, really appreciate that, more coming soon!
Thanks Todd. Explained in plain and simple language (that's how you know the teacher really understands it).
Fab! So glad you liked it! More coming.
This was the video I've been looking for!
Good, basic information delivered in a calm manner that makes it easy to understand for a beginner like me.
Thank you. Cheers
This is a fantastic video! I’m new to LF and was struggling to make sense of lenses. There’s not many videos on the subject and none that I’ve found that break things down this easy to understand. Thank you for sharing!
I appreciate your kind words!
Great speaking voice. Wonderful info for the novice. One of the few people I don't need CC to watch. Excellant job.
Thank you so much.
One of the best tutorials I have ever seen. Thank you!
This is a great overview of lens info that touches on some areas few take the time to show. Nice!!
Thanks!
Bless you for not having a whole bunch of BS like a long video intro.
E. Aaron Ross For my stuff I just want to get to the point and give photographers some insight and info. I’m not a fan of a lot of filler stuff in videos. Thanks for watching!
This is by far the best video I have seen on LF lenses. Great detail in a clear and easy to understand format. Thanks!!
Paul Beck You’re very kind, so glad you liked it, thanks very much! More content coming.
Todd, great video's please keep it up. I have been a professional photographer for 29 years and started shooting commercial work on 4x5 & 8x10 cameras. I then went through the whole digital phase and now I am looking to slow things down and start using a field camera. hoping to pick up a Linhof Technika this week.
michael lemon Thank you! Slowing down is good in this fast crazy world we live in right now.
This is such a great channel. Although I am an experienced photographer, I have yet to get around to shooting large format. Your channel has everything the beginner needs to help them get started. Thank you 🙂
That’s great to hear. Thanks for watching.
Was that William Albert Allard in the Goerz portrait?
Yes indeed it was. 😉
I learned a lot in 10 minutes. Thank you.
Perfect. You’re welcome.
Thank you for this very engaging, and well informed video. Q1). If buying a used lens, what are the signs to look for? Q2). Do LF lenses reside with the same shutter all the time? Q3). Do lens/shutters need a periodic service? Q4). Are there any lenses with maintenance issues that we should try to avoid? Thank you, Todd 👍
I only have one lens for my 5x4.
Schneider Xenar 135mm 4.7.
40mm equivalent. I don't use shift.
Front tilt only.
The shutter is accurate at all speeds.
No T setting so I use a lockable release.
really enjoying and appreciating your methodical yet easy to follow videos.
Thank you for a very detailed video, truly like your circle drawing explanation, now that is good explanation.
Thank you, and thanks for watching!!
Great information, Thank you.
Thanks for watching.
A ton of relevant info. Thank you!
Awesomeness! Thanks again Todd. You should the budget lens board I made for a 162mm. Not pretty... but it’s light tight. (Basically theft proof... no one would want it)
Scott Hutchison as long as it works I always say!!
Just getting into 4x5: This was so helpful thank you: Subscribed
Great simple and informative. I would like to see a more detailed video on correctly mounting a lens on a board. Or removing an old one that doesn't want to come off!
Thanks, I did a video on mounting a lens board, have a look through my videos.
@@toddkorolphoto Not surprised you have. I'll search it out. I was trying (successfully !) to mount a new lens on my old Crown Graphic as I watched.
Thanks Todd! This was super useful!
That’s great to hear! Thanks for watching.
Very informative. Magnificent pictures. Makes your presentation much more meaningful.
Ok, ok, I'll cook you breakfast!
@@toddkorolphotop pop p
Todd, thank you for your great videos. Seeking sharp negatives, should I insist on a lens that closes down to f/64, or is that not an important factor?
For a 300mm, the more important bellows extension is 400mm to give you a close focus of 2.1m
Hi Todd, you got me confused at the 2:00 to 2:10 mark. It looks like the lens has a shutter speed range of 500th to 1 second yet you say 400th to 1 second. Also you say the first part while the len is set to 1 second and the next part at 15th of a second. Am I missing something?
Thanks, Jim.
great video and introduction for someone interested in getting into large format photography
Lens boards are easy to make from wood or plastic because you can easily cut and drill the holes you need with a hole cutter, just use a file to file corner of top and bottom into a wedge. Aluminum works too but drilling requires good metal hole drillbits.
I have taken my time and built my own, often they fit perfect.
Very clear and interesting. Thx a lot
@@philmtx3fr ✌️
Todd, Very nice, succinct, and thorough vid. Please keep making them. When I had my studio, I shot mostly with a 4x5 Calumet and a 'blad. 500C/M. They were the workhorses of studio. I sometimes borrowed an 8x10, and the Nikons usually stayed in their cases. In future vids, you might mention the use of the cut corners of the ground glass to check circle coverage. After a many year hiatus from photography, I recently acquired a Sinar Norma with a 210 Symmar-S, multi-coated & f5.6. The Sinar needs new pads in the parts gripping the rail. Does anyone know who can replace them?
on the issue of long lenses, perhaps a recommendation, in addition to yours, that is camera selection, the 240, 300,360 and longer lenses might be better attached to a monorail, as these, like the sinar F2\P2 or Arca Swiss F-line have dual rail clamps allowing the weight to be more evenly distributed when in long mode, also this allows the long rail to be managed more safely on two tripods, or on a more stable Optical bench system, the more rigid the less vibration, esp. with these long lenses, and in windy conditions too.
Mono rails are almost always more stable, but a lot harder to take out into the field where I do all of my work.
@@toddkorolphoto another point here, if field cameras are your thing go for "telephoto" lens designations, as they have less infinity distance, than the focal length would imply, saving on bellows ext. and also for more restricted focus tracks of field and press cameras, facilitates easier focussing, as you aren't too near the hard stops.
nice video, also on the subject of storing lenses there are other options, linhof makes a camera case for their tecknika cameras, which has a slotted draw for lens storage, the slots allow the board to fit in, and it stabilises the lens in the case ( bit like the screw box tackle cases diy'ers have for screws, or fisherman have for their lures).
Those are nice cases for sure. I know a guy who has a new Linhof 3000 with a full set of lenses, all cammed and all the accessories with a new case. It’s lovely.
Very informative video about large format lenses. Lots of useful information. One thing though that could be added is to show how to attach a lens to a lens board. That is something that I still don't know how to do. I have researched a fair amount about large format photography but so far, Ive never seen any kind of instructions for attaching LF lenses to lens boards so that aspect is still a mystery to me.
anzaeria Great idea, I will do a short video about that. Thanks.
I am running into trouble . I have a 4x5 and shoot a 65mm a 90mm and a 210mm. Problem is the jump between 90mm and 210mm is too much. So I think I am going to find a good Nikkor 150mm to match my other lenses which are Nikkors. Or if I find a good 120mm whatever at a good price grab one of those. I was shooting ferns straight below my tripod and the 90mm was just to wide didn’t give me the look I wanted. The 210mm looked perfect except I couldn’t get all of the ferns in the Shot. Even at full tripod extension.
Terry Breedlove Sorry I missed this note, yes a 150 is a great lens for in between a 90 & 210.
Terry, Nikon certainly made great large format glass, but so did Fuji. Watch for Fujinon 150mm lenses on eBay and the Large Format Photography Forum's *For Sale* page. I own several Fujinon f/5.6 lenses and they are excellent.
Such an excellent video! Thank you so much. It’s been many years since I shot LF. Your info is so helpful.
Thanks very much, trying to make a series that makes it accessible to anyone. Cheers !
wow thanks for this clear explanation
You’re welcome.
Thank you. Very informative
I am trying to collect a good line of lenses. I have a 65mm 90mm and 210mm. All Nikkor lenses. I want to add a 150 and 300mm next. The lens I most use is the 90mm and close behind it the 210mm right now. I have fallen head over hills for my Chamonix F1 4x5 and working in the darkroom.
Terry Breedlove That’s great, Nikon makes great glass! The Chamonix are wonderful cameras, I am thinking of getting one myself.
Terry, I also have a Chamonix 4x5" camera and have tried many so-called Technika "compatible" third party lens boards as an alternative to the excellent Chamonix (expensive) carbon fiber boards. Some brands worked well but were expensive and others didn't work because they were too thick. The best price + quality ones I've found so far are made in China by Luland and currently sell on eBay in the US for about $14 including shipping.
www.ebay.com/itm/Lens-Board-Luland-Linhof-Wista-4-5in-compur-copal-1-lens-board-99-96mm-NEW/182939087113?hash=item2a9804f109:g:YRkAAOSw2cVasMGC
Terry Thomas...
the photographer
Atlanta, Georgia USA
Simple and clear. Thank you for this video!
I'm cleaning up an old 7x11 Eastman View No. 2. What size lens should I get for doing landscapes? I have a Nikon 90mm for my 4x5, can i use it on the 7x11?
I have a Schneider 240mm and a Goertz 305mm lens and I’d like to get slightly wider than the 240mm gives, so thinking about a 210mm for my 8x10 camera - do you think there not enough difference between the 210 and 240mm?
Yeah a 240 is a much more normal view, a 210 will start to look a bit more like a wide angle lens. I have both and I can tell for sure when I go wider.
Great video on view camera lenses!. Can you do a video on tripods for view cameras?
I actually have a trip-pod video planned, stay tuned.
one other point you do need to consider, is lens front element size, aka filter thread, some, like my Fujinon SWD 65 and 90 mm 5.6 lenses have either an 82 or 67mm thread, so square filter systems can adapt easily, like lee, Kase K9 or others, as due to less lens coatings, ND and polarisers are essential esp. in urban and seascape shots, to reduce glare, so wide f stops can be used (as movements themselves, due to scheimflug principle, allow more dof so you don't have to stop down as far), and give portraits a Bokeh all its own, but if like most wide aperture lenses (f5.6/4/3.5) unlike standard f8/9 lenses, wider thread sizes of 95mm+ are not uncommon, so specialty filters/sets are required for a lens, esp. wides, as centre filters are used as well, to even exposure (reduce corner vignetting).
Hey, Todd. Is William Albert Allard the portrait at 6:48 min? On another note, thanks for this great content you´re producing.
Miguel Garrido yes it sure is. We shot it having a beer in a beer garden when I was hauling around all my stuff. He’s a good friend, amazing photographer!
I really enjoyed your introduction. As an amateur, I learned a lot from it. However, I do have a question regarding my 4x5 Horseman 45FA camera and Schneider 90mm F5.6 MC Kreuznach Super Angulon Copal 0 lens. Unfortunately, the lens doesn't fit and I'm now looking for a semi-wide angle lens. My concern is that there won't be enough space to do movements. Is it possible to get maximum movement with a wide-angle lens?
Ah yes those big 90's they won't fit in the Horsemans'. But, a 90m,m F/8 should fit in the Horseman with it's much smaller rear lens.
Can you provide a link for the lens case.
Congrats Todd! This video is by far the most informative, well done and covering all relevant points about LF lenses. Very thankfull for having you sharing your knowledge and producing this super content. The other video about the LF book recommendations is brilliant as well. You have a new subscriber. Greets from Munich
Thank you so much, really appreciate that. Love Munich!
I am just getting into Large Format photography (4x5). Your video is very clear, straightforward and easy to follow. I do have one question. I have an opportunity to buy a used Schneider Symmar-S 210mm f/5.6 MC lens. My question. Is that stated 210 mm focal length for a 4x5 or an 8x10 camera? When I am seeking a lens for a large format camera, how do I calculate the stated focal length for the 4x5 camera?
That 210 is for a 4x5 lens. There are many calculation tables on line that will tell you the focal lengths for the formats. Here is one. www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2Fmqa32qfw9jq91.jpg%3Fwidth%3D1500%26format%3Dpjpg%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3D5ab15bc7a72b6ea128e7df0fa5f2381e4ea2b320
Thank you so much for the quick reply. @@toddkorolphoto
You mentioned subtle differences in the top lenses. It might be interesting to look at some of those and see the differences.
Great.Thanks for sharing
@@ritonmhilli ✌️
Great video! I was looking for a video that explained how to use these lenses and how the levers work. My own lens (Schneider-Kreuznach 5.6/180) refuses to open the shutter unless you cock the preview lever first, cock the shutter next and then press the shutter release. I guess each lens is different.
Yes it also depends on what shutter the lens is in as well.
Professional comments, thank you
Great job 🙌👍🏻
🙏🙏
I like to do crazy up close abstract work, like Brett Weston and Siskind. I guess a 210mm would be my starting point?
Would definitely be a good place to start. Just remember you’ll need some good bellows to work with.
the shorter the focal length, the closer you can get.
@@creepyloner1979 yes I bought longer lenses in this past year and I actually use the short ones for close work, since they require less bellows extension and closer focus.
I have a Schneider Kreuznach Angulo 90mm f6.8, any recommendations for mounting it to a board?
I've got one of the Shen Hao 6x17 Medium Format cameras....looks like a LF, but is panoramic MF.
I'm buying LF lenses for it which will work when I eventually get a LF camera too. I started with the Nikkor 90mm SW f/45. Great lens so far.
I"m wanting to get a decent deal on a good condition 150mm Nikkor W f/5.6 as my 'normal' lens.
Shooting as wide as I am...I have to make sure that image circle will cover the 6x17 range....
Is there a good way to find what the size image circle IS on any given lens?
Great video, thank you!! Please keep them coming!!
Thanks for watching! Looking forward to your images. This is a great resource I use all the time. static.bhphotovideo.com/FrameWork/Product_Resources/SourceBookProPhoto/Section04LgFormatLenses.pdf
Thanks for the info. I'm thinking about an Intrepid 8x10 mainly for wet plate out in the field hopefully. Any lens recommendations as far as focal lengths?
A 300 mm is close to a normal lens and a 240mm is a slightly wide angle lens for 8x10.
Another excellent tutorial,many thanks for yr great contribute!
Todd, you read my mind. Thanks!
Christian Nawrath Smith Perfect, thanks!!
really thanks for the video!
Nice one Todd. 👌
Cheers, Kevin
(from FB "Everything 4x5 Camera")
Many thanks!
Great video. One thing I would like to know is how to convert coverage angle (say, 72 deg) to image circle for a given focal length/bellows extension. Taking 72 deg and a bellows extension of 135mm, for example, is the calculation of image radius simply tan(36)*135=radius? And then how does aperture factor into that? I can look up tables for this, but it would be helpful to be able to calculate. Thanks!
Since Todd has not replied, may I take a stab at answering your questions?
Angle of coverage and image circle are calculated at infinity for each lens by the manufacturer. Naturally, the image circle will become larger as you extend the lens toward a closer subject. How to calculate it is far beyond my knowledge, sorry. But I will bet it has something to do with the base of a cone and the height of the cone, etc.
As far as I know, the aperture selected will not change the image circle but the image *will* get sharper as you stop down - especially parts of the image that are out toward the edge. Of course, at too small of an aperture, diffraction will start to rear its ugly head.
Terry Thomas...
the photographer
Atlanta, Georgia USA
As A matter of practicality, checking circle coverage for any lens at any particular extension can be done by using the the cut off corners of the ground glass. Not all ground glass have the corners cut off but those that do allow you to look at the edge of the image and make sure that you can see light through the lens. If not, then you've exceeded the covering power of that particular lens.
very helpful content. a question: is there a way to tell which type of lens board is in use. thanks!
Each camera has it's own type of lens board, not sure which one you are using but a quick google search will tell you which one you need for your camera. Cheers
Hello I have a Bausch and Lomb - ziess 5x8 where can I get the mounting ring for the lens board , thank you . Stephen
skgrimes.com
Very good info here for sure....
Very insightful tutorial. Thank you!
Jay Mathews Thanks!!
Todd, I like the Gnass Gear bag; where did you purchase it? Thanks, Tony
I bought it from him direct awhile back, but unfortunately I don't think he makes these anymore, I think your best bet would be eBay.
@@toddkorolphoto
Recently, I read that some photographers use bags made for fishing reels. I would assume reels made for salt water fish since fresh water reels that I've seen are smaller.
Good Job
Thank you, love being empowered with knowledge.
which Goerz do you use ? Can you recommend a wide angle lens with a shutter to use on a Sinar Alpina, which will not break my budget ?! Thank you.
I use a gold dot Goertz Dagor, for 4x5 film a good 120mm or 135mm wide angle lens, for 8x10 a 240 Fuji W would be great.
Hi Todd, how have you been? Just stumbled upon this video and haven't seen anything from you recently. Hope all is well 🙏🏻
Thanks. Crazy busy summer. All is good. Thanks for checking in!
Great video.
✌️
Hi. I have a 75mm. Can I use that on my 4x5. And by what you said, if I can use it I'm going to have to use a bag bellows. Is that right.
I guess my main Qn. is, is the 75mm normally compatible with a 4x5, or should I be using a larger camera?
Thanks.
Yes a 75mm will work well on a 4x5 camera, depending on the bellows the bellows might be tight. A bag bellows would certainly be easier.
@@toddkorolphoto ok, thanks very much👍 From Australia 🏖️🇭🇲
Great intro Todd. Is there any reason I cant use an 8x10 lens on my 4x5 Toyo?
You can use 8x10 lenses on 4x5 cameras, you just have to be aware that some 8x10 lenses are much heavier and harder on the 4x5 front standard, and sometimes an 8x10 lens can be physically too large for the front of a 4x5. So in the end and 8x10 lens on a 4x5 can be much more difficult to work with.
@@toddkorolphoto Thank you very much Todd. Much appreciated.
Todd, thanks for putting this video together. For future videos like this, you might not want to wear a black shirt when showing black lens boards and lenses with black bodies. Just a thought.
Terry Thomas...
the photographer
Atlanta, Georgia USA
Great video, very informative and compressed! Love it!
Thanks so much!
Sir fine work cheers
Many thanks!
Great video! One lingering question is when you can remove an element on a lens to make it a different focal length (called a convertible lens based on googling?) It seems like the f/stop scale changes when you do that (I have a Schneider Symmar 5.6/180 that converts to 12/315. I'll probably not use the 315 length, but are there any things to know/watch out for when using something like this? Thanks for all the great videos! I've been binge watching them. :)
I haven't used any convertible lenses, I will look into that.
Thank you🙏
You’re welcome 😊
What size would a 218mm lens be equal to using 2 inch by 3 inch film
A 218mm lens used on a 2 x 3-inch camera would be approximately equal to the angle of view created by a 103mm lens used on a 35mm camera.
This lens case i awesome. I would recommend to use a cooler temperature for your video if you can; it’s a bit yellowish.
It is a bit, I was playing with some colour grading, I should have left well enough alone!
Comparing 35mm camera lenses with those lenses used with a 4x5-inch view camera is not a simple matter. Both camera formats have a different aspect ratio, determined by the height and width of their respective format rectangles. These rectangles can be compared using the ratio of their format diagonals, where the diagonal of the larger format is divided by the diagonal of the smaller format.
For the 35mm format, the height and width of its rectangle are 24mm by 36mm. For the 4x5-inch view camera, the height and width of its rectangle are approximately 101.6mm by 127mm. (The actual dimensions are a little less, as determined by the 4x5-inch film holder used.)
Using the Pythagorean theorem, the diagonal for the 35mm format is 43.27mm and 162.64mm for the 4x5-inch format. Note that the 4x5-inch diagonal is 3.76 times longer (162.64/43.27 = 3.76) than the 35mm diagonal.
The number 3.76 can then be used to divide the focal length of any 4x5-inch lens to find the equivalent 35mm focal length.
Using the information above, the following list shows popular 4x5-inch lenses (listed on the left) and their corresponding 35mm focal lengths (listed on the right).
90mm = 24mm
120mm = 32mm
135mm = 36mm
150mm = 40mm
180mm = 48mm
210mm = 56mm
240mm = 64mm
300mm = 80mm
You are correct! Want to give people a general idea of the approximate equivalent ratio so they have an idea. Thanks
@@toddkorolphoto Comparing lenses used with different format sizes is not a completely settled issue.
Some photographers claim (e.g., the late Fred Picker of Zone VI) that the format's width (in landscape mode) is more useful, and therefore more important, than using the diagonal when comparing lenses between two formats.
To obtain a single number, similar to the one calculated in my last post without resorting to high school geometry, one can use the ratio between the longest side of the larger format and the longest side of smaller format.
For the 35mm and 4x5 formats, that number (quotient) would be 127mm/36mm = 3.53. This number can then be used to divide the focal length of any 4x5-inch lens to find the equivalent 35mm focal length.
Using the information above, the following list shows popular 4x5-inch lenses (listed on the left) and their corresponding 35mm focal lengths (listed on the right).
90mm = 25mm
120mm = 34mm
135mm = 38mm
150mm = 42mm
180mm = 51mm
210mm = 59mm
240mm = 68mm
300mm = 85mm
Note that the results between the two methods of comparing format lenses are not that significant.
Your videos are the best, I can't thank you enough for them!
How can I use Carl Zeiss Jena 250 mm 4.5 large format lens in my canon DSLR!
Well it could be done. You would need the help of a good optical engineer, they could mount it in a Canon mount, probably an FD mount then onto an adapter to the EOS mount. Probably be too expensive for what it is worth. Would be a little easier to mount it onto a mirrorless system, as they take more adapters.
@@toddkorolphoto well , for me it's not possible , anyway I feel very happy to see it's 19 blades 😂
Thank you very much, really helpful!
Perfect thank you.
Mind there are two types of 00 shutters.
1. for the old rollfilm and FF cameras, B 1 - 1/500
2. for view camera lenses, B 1 - 1/500 plus a knob for opening the shutter to focus.
Beware, some Dutch photo shop swindlers deny there are two types of 00 shutters.
How do you determined the “image circle” before buy a lens ? Is it written on the lens ?
Nope. You have to do a bit of online research. The image circle is listed online for pretty much every lens.
@@toddkorolphoto u mentioned for 4X5 LF camera u need image circle of 165. So when researching just look for a lens with that size circle or greater ?
@@artsmodelstation9396 with an image circle larger than 165.
@@toddkorolphoto Found a Rodenstock Sironar N 240mm F5.6 MC Lens Copal 3. Image circle of 300mm. Do u know if this lens compatible with LF 4X5 ?
@@artsmodelstation9396 You can but it's big, it's really meant for 5x7 and 8x10 cameras.
excellent.
jhon gris Thanks for watching!!
Lovely Canham 8x10.
Yeah they are really nice. Doing a walk around review of it in January
@@toddkorolphoto I've had a 5x7 Canham (with 4x5 and 4x10 backs) for about 35 years. Never a problem. Would prefer wooden lens boards but you can't have everything! Will be looking for your review.
@@russellyoung2852 I would actually like wooden boards as well. But the metal doesn’t crack or ever warp I guess.
@@toddkorolphoto In 55 years of large format, I've only had one board crack (due to my using too large a screw for the flange ring). If you have three or four in a backpack, there is a real weight difference.
@@russellyoung2852 agreed. I would much rather have wood!
I just bought a crown graphic and never realised how many things there are to consider haha. When purchasing a lens, how do i find out how big the image circle is? And correct me if i misunderstood, but any lens with a image circle bigger than 165mm will be enough to cover 4x5?
xesse1 you need to have a min image circle of 155mm. Depending on the lens you get, there is a lot of info on various lenses and their image circles online. But most modern lenses will cover 4x5 film wi5 room. Happy picture taking, welcome to the large format world!
@@toddkorolphoto Thanks so much, that waa really helpful! I have the 'graflex optar 135mm 4.7' lens, i cant seem to find any information online about its image circle size, do you happen to know it?
xesse1 That lens will cover 4x5 but there will not be a lot of room for movements, it will help to stop down for sure. But the Crown Graphic doesn’t have a lot of movements anyway, so you shouldn’t have a problem. It would be hard to do huge front rise with that lens keep that in mind and check your corners when you shoot. ;-)
@@xesse1 a lot of those lenses were for press photography (newspapers, wirephoto services, military, etc.) so they were not designed for lens movements. As the old expression went, "f/8 and be there!"
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C6%91/8_and_be_there
Very interesting, thank you!
x3.5, not x3. 150mm=43mm (which is the true normal focal length for 35mm film), 120mm=34mm, 90mm=26mm.
factor is 3.5. 150 equals 43.5 in 35 mm. 174 mm is 50. 8x10 has a factor of 7.