I thought I would touch on the patina issue, since it seems no one else did. It isn't a simple answer, but I think I explained it simply enough. There will most definitely be multiple patinas present. What is happening in the still is essentially no different than what is happening to copper roofs, bronze statutes, etc, just more rapidly. So in the beginning the shiny copper will react with oxygen to create cuprous oxide (Cu2O), which gives shiny copper that dullish red/pink/brown hue. That cuprous oxide will react with more oxygen to form cupric oxide (CuO), which is actually black, but will simply darken the copper so it becomes a darker muddled brown, since not a lot will have been created. These happen just in the presence of air, without doing anything, adding heat will speed up the reactions though. Then the cupric oxide, in the presence of water vapour and CO2 (both present in a still from the wash and the air) can transform into one of 2 carbonate based patinas; dicopper carbonate dihydrate (malachite/blue-green) or tricopper dicarbonate dihydrate (azurite/blue-darkblue), or the cupric oxide in the presence of water vapour and sulfites (both present in a still) can transform into a sulfur based patina called tetracopper sulfate hexahydroxide (bronchantite/dark-green). (Note: Sulfites come from dying yeast, they eat sulfates and in the metabolic pathway to creating sulfides for amino acid synthesis, they change that sulfate into sulfite. If that yeast cell dies in the middle of that conversion, the sulfite will be released. Protip: Also, if there isn't enough assimilable nitrogen, they will release that sulfide as hydrogen sulfide, and your mash/wash gets that rotten egg smell) After about 24h of drying time, these patinas will be semi-permanent, and essentially require a simple acid wash to clean it out. Not super necessary if it's only in the column, but if you have it forming in your copper condenser, and you are seeing a blue/green tinge to your distillate, obviously I would suggest washing it out. So as you can see, as the patinas build up, covering up the copper, having already reacted with the cupric oxide, no new patina can form in that spot. And it is the formation of the sulfur based patina that captures that sulfur compound, meaning the copper can't remove any more sulfur based compounds from the vapour path. This comment ended up being longer than I meant. I hope it makes sense. tl;dr Copper columns, or columns with copper packing, that have patina, are unarguably worse than shiny bare copper with the same surface area, at removing sulfur compounds because they are already bound to compounds, and can't take on any new sulfur compounds.
this is really helpful Adam. i read posts at hd some folks say they never clean out (but make runs every week) and some that do a big clean every time like this video. your post helped me understand the "why" to make decisions.
Getting crusties off the column is as simple as a boiling run as you described. Sanitizing a column is a simple as watching fores and heads in a run. Everything from there... "Hearts" is what by definition is hearts - clean smooth likker. Great cleaning video Jessie! Showed my wife and kids your twins! Beautiful, God Bless!!
My wife and I make homemade cider every year from various orchard apples. This year we had one carboy that had a strong sulphide rotten egg scent off the top. The flavour was great other than you would smell it as you tasted it. We re-racked the carboy and siphoned it through 3/8" copper tubing. It immediately took away the scent and after re-racking the carboy though the copper we couldn't smell the rotten egg scent at all. Copper sulphate separates compounds in hydrogen sulphide as black precipitate. My understanding is once separated the smell breaks down as well. On a side note, I am just starting distilling and have just finished building a pot still out of an old keg. After the vinager run and sacrificial run, that very carboy of wine is going to be my first boil. Love your channel.
As a brewer of beer,cider,wine,etc the fool proof way to not get sulfur in cider is to use nutrients. The more complex of a blend the better (not just DAP). This is because cider lacks free nitrogen and micro nutrients to keep yeast healthy and happy. I use yeast Energizer and yeast nutrient(DAP) combo that works well, but any will do use as directed by manufacturer.
OMG cuteness overload!! Proud papa moment on the twins! I guess if you are only doing one type of wash no need to clean overkill. But who only wants to do one thing! We are getting eager for the run too! 😁
Hey Man great video! maybe a quick tip, When steam cleaning put the end of the still in a bucket with water. This will keep the steam under water ( Until its so hot it will evaporate) This helps me so my neighbors wont call the fire department when cleaning
I've been doing some all grain bourbons lately and I use the still to steam gelatinise the corn. I just stick some silicone tube from the end to a section of 10mm copper and run it down into my big ass 50l pot with a tee at the end. Works really well at holding the temp at 100c. Looks like you could do the same with those rig mate
I found a good way to clean your copper column and other still parts is to take one of those long plastic tubs for soaking wallpaper and mix up a solution of 5 gallons or 20 liters of water and 3 cups or 750 ML of citric acid powder and mix it up good then pour it into the plastic wallpaper tub then submerge your still column and parts and let soak over night and in the morning they will be shinny bright. You can get the pure citric acid powder on ebay and the wallpaper tub at home depot or lowes or DIY's, I don't know what stores they have in New Zealand but just ask for a wallpaper tub they know what it is.
You thoroughly talked about the cleaning of your column and condenser, but what about the boiler? How do you treat that between runs or after a strong flavored product? Thanks for the awesome videos. Your good at making the information very palateable. Thanks again.
It's funny you say you dont think ppl wanna see it but ..you always pick great topics for inbetween run days dont sell yourself short .. and the twins are beautiful little monsters ..more of them wouldn't hurt
Hello fellow cooker of corn! Someone may have already suggested this but instead of a pot to soak my posts, I use an ice chest/cooler. Everything lies flat so it takes less to submerge it. Just my hint, I hope it's helpful😊
Citric acid powder and water,soak copper 30 to 60 minutes,then add in flat sodapop or lemon juice !!! Then rinse well. Makes copper better than when you bought it ! Sani-clean for fermenters,and leave WETTED ! Good On Ya,Mate !! I will add this. My use only needs room for 2" column. So, I glued caps on both ends of 30" of 4" PVC septic pipe,,then cut a 3" wide window on one side. Makes a great soaking tray in the nice warm shower. Columns, Liebig coolers,parrot.etc.
Nunyer, Jesse did show his Lady-Wife in the video on Preparing Oak. When he (stealthily) entered the house she was in the kitchen and authorised him to use the oven for toasting oak. He has a Lovely family.
Would you recommend using 5 Star PBW or Oxiclean Free on your still periodically, like maybe monthly, to clean out oils and whatnot that can build up? For example, maybe you had a puke that dried on the inside of your lyne arm before you could flush it out. Also, what would you recommend craft distillers use to clean out smaller lyne arms that are maybe 2-3 feet long but only have an inch or so inside diameter (i.e. what you'd typically encounter on smaller stills)? I thought you might use an aquarium pipe cleaner, but I also read that you could use a rifle bore brush. I was somewhat skeptical of the latter though, given that if you've got a copper lyne arm, it would likely get gouged on the inside from the brush, as gun cleaning brushes are, in my experience, typically made out of harder (/than copper) metals, like bronze. If you use PBW or Oxiclean Free, would a pipe brush even be necessary? I'm not asking for myself, just thought it might be something someone else might want to know.
Jesse you said run cheap bottle of vodka or cheap alcohol to make the first time sacrificial run. One bottle or 2 and how much water with it how fast do you want to run it. ?
@@StillIt it is the least I could do as I don’t have patroon but I have watched a lot of your vids in the last 3 months. Your back catalogue is an awesome reference for new distillers. Thanks for continuing to create entertaining and useful content
I tried to still a sugar mash...it turned blue,then I tried to clean with water,citric acid and hydrogen peroxide...it turned blue again(do I need to distill right away,or can I wait a day?)
Great video again brotha! By the way how many gallon is that blue container you got your fermenting in? I think I have one that had sucrose of some type in in thinking of using as a fermenter. Drill hole in top for airlock? Thanks!
hello, last year i screw up and got drunk while stilling plum mash, pot was on electric stove and it was heated until morning. My whole worm got smoldered inside and tar buildup inside. I have only 10mm inside diameter in worm and I cant get wire through to clean it with rug like a shotgun. It was first run on plums and second stilling i got brown shit coming out off my still. I tried to put my worm inside fire so smolder inside pipe got burned but now i'm running my second run on apple mash and I still get bad flavour from it again. I'm gonna try this steam run and i see if it helps otherwise i'm thinking i have to make a new worm.
I get an orange film inside mine- very annoying. I can’t really get into my thumper either. It’s made by Steven Stillz and literally only a small drain valve on it. Any suggestions and what is this orange residue?
Hi mate, long time brewer, starting back up again after a 10 year break, Have started watching your videos to relearn or leaarn something new I didn't know before, loving your videos.. What happened to your beard...?? lol
t500 is £399 over here with packing etc etc to build a still like Jesse has i would need £100 in tube £60 for a keg close to £100 for the fixings and thats not including a heat source or packing , thermometer,s and me having to buy brazing equipment or welding gas and wire if i went stainless , its close i suppose but a t500 is plug and play and resalable the frankenstill ide end up making would not be lol
I seriously want to know how you get lead free solder to stick to copper on one side and stainless steel on the other???? I'm talking about the joint between the SS ferrule and the copper pipe. I have used strong liquid acid flux that's specifically made for cleaning the copper solder joint and the solder will not bond to the SS it sticks to the copper but will not stick to the SS. How do you do it?
So it's a matter of getting it hot enough? I also use map gas instead of propane and I even sand up the stainless steel a bit and it still doesn't want to bond. I found that if you use thick walled copper pipe the SS ferrule fitting fits tight inside the copper pipe and makes a good seal, you have to pound the ferrule inside the copper pipe with a flat piece of wood on both ends of the copper pipe and a hammer to drive the SS fittings into the pipe and it's good to use a soft piece of wood on each end of the pipe otherwise you will distort the cooper pipe
Oh are you using solder or braze? Sorry I have only used braze, I guess some people call it silver solder. But just realised we may be talking two different things.
Put a plastic sandwich bag over end of colum secure with a rubber band, do the same on end of condenser, fill with Cokacola and leave it for at least six hours. Pull the bags, rinse with warm water. Your copper will shine like a new penny leaving no bad taste or oxidation what so ever. No hard work. And yes oxidated copper does not pull sulfides out. But if you test this you will find out if your colum and condenser made with stainless steel you run the same wash through both, you, me or anybody else will not be able to taste one bit of differance. I know many will not believe this but copper does not pull enough sulfate out to make any differance at all. In the old days copper was the least reactive metal available to it was ideal. That was before stainless was known. It is a myth that copper cleans the distillation. How ever, oxidation will leave a flavor. Solder may oxidize more than the copper. If oxidized enough it could leave a blue tint to product. Oxidation off copper in itself is slightly toxic. A 2 liter coke cures the problem. A all glass distilation tested just as clean as copper. You have to have some years of oxidation to ever reach any danger of any toxic residue in the product. I am talking visibly green oxidation.
Love your videos but I go a little further I soak all my copper in food grade citrus acid my cap , cap arm thump post and my worn condenser a clean still make clean liquor
I certainly do. Rock salt, vinegar, water in the pot. Vinegar and water in the thumper. NO cooling water in the flake stand. Then crank up the heat and blast it. Double thick paste on all the seams and joints.
I’m late to this, but I’ll add my 2 cents worth. A plastic container long enough to fit all your long pieces in, and tall enough to cover your pipes. Then fill it with water enough to cover the top, then add 1 tablespoon citric acid per gallon of water, let sit... your copper will look like you spent hours polishing inside and out
Man, You and your wife should be very PROUD, your twins are Beautiful. Obviously, they must get their looks from their Mother? Just joking man, Beautiful Babies....
I will say, YES, when your pot or thumper pukes, just stop everything and clean it out. PAIN. IN. THE. ASS. HOWEVER...If you don't, you can get a steady stream of heads or foreshots throughout the rest of your damn run as the beer in the line vaporizes contaminating your excellent apple split brandy, turning it into decent lamp fuel. I wonder how I know that???
I thought I would touch on the patina issue, since it seems no one else did. It isn't a simple answer, but I think I explained it simply enough.
There will most definitely be multiple patinas present. What is happening in the still is essentially no different than what is happening to copper roofs, bronze statutes, etc, just more rapidly.
So in the beginning the shiny copper will react with oxygen to create cuprous oxide (Cu2O), which gives shiny copper that dullish red/pink/brown hue. That cuprous oxide will react with more oxygen to form cupric oxide (CuO), which is actually black, but will simply darken the copper so it becomes a darker muddled brown, since not a lot will have been created. These happen just in the presence of air, without doing anything, adding heat will speed up the reactions though.
Then the cupric oxide, in the presence of water vapour and CO2 (both present in a still from the wash and the air) can transform into one of 2 carbonate based patinas; dicopper carbonate dihydrate (malachite/blue-green) or tricopper dicarbonate dihydrate (azurite/blue-darkblue), or the cupric oxide in the presence of water vapour and sulfites (both present in a still) can transform into a sulfur based patina called tetracopper sulfate hexahydroxide (bronchantite/dark-green).
(Note: Sulfites come from dying yeast, they eat sulfates and in the metabolic pathway to creating sulfides for amino acid synthesis, they change that sulfate into sulfite. If that yeast cell dies in the middle of that conversion, the sulfite will be released. Protip: Also, if there isn't enough assimilable nitrogen, they will release that sulfide as hydrogen sulfide, and your mash/wash gets that rotten egg smell)
After about 24h of drying time, these patinas will be semi-permanent, and essentially require a simple acid wash to clean it out. Not super necessary if it's only in the column, but if you have it forming in your copper condenser, and you are seeing a blue/green tinge to your distillate, obviously I would suggest washing it out.
So as you can see, as the patinas build up, covering up the copper, having already reacted with the cupric oxide, no new patina can form in that spot. And it is the formation of the sulfur based patina that captures that sulfur compound, meaning the copper can't remove any more sulfur based compounds from the vapour path.
This comment ended up being longer than I meant. I hope it makes sense.
tl;dr Copper columns, or columns with copper packing, that have patina, are unarguably worse than shiny bare copper with the same surface area, at removing sulfur compounds because they are already bound to compounds, and can't take on any new sulfur compounds.
this is really helpful Adam. i read posts at hd some folks say they never clean out (but make runs every week) and some that do a big clean every time like this video. your post helped me understand the "why" to make decisions.
Thanks Adam, great explanation.
Crystal clear. Thanks.
This is why I like stainless still, and then use copper scrubbers in my column👍👍
Getting crusties off the column is as simple as a boiling run as you described.
Sanitizing a column is a simple as watching fores and heads in a run.
Everything from there... "Hearts" is what by definition is hearts - clean smooth likker.
Great cleaning video Jessie! Showed my wife and kids your twins! Beautiful, God Bless!!
My wife and I make homemade cider every year from various orchard apples. This year we had one carboy that had a strong sulphide rotten egg scent off the top. The flavour was great other than you would smell it as you tasted it. We re-racked the carboy and siphoned it through 3/8" copper tubing. It immediately took away the scent and after re-racking the carboy though the copper we couldn't smell the rotten egg scent at all.
Copper sulphate separates compounds in hydrogen sulphide as black precipitate. My understanding is once separated the smell breaks down as well.
On a side note, I am just starting distilling and have just finished building a pot still out of an old keg. After the vinager run and sacrificial run, that very carboy of wine is going to be my first boil.
Love your channel.
Awesome man, sweet hobby to share with your wife!
That sounds like a pretty special first fun to me. Hope it goes well!
As a brewer of beer,cider,wine,etc the fool proof way to not get sulfur in cider is to use nutrients. The more complex of a blend the better (not just DAP). This is because cider lacks free nitrogen and micro nutrients to keep yeast healthy and happy. I use yeast Energizer and yeast nutrient(DAP) combo that works well, but any will do use as directed by manufacturer.
OMG cuteness overload!! Proud papa moment on the twins!
I guess if you are only doing one type of wash no need to clean overkill. But who only wants to do one thing!
We are getting eager for the run too! 😁
haha yep pretty much my man! Wifey wanted to get them into a vid at some stage too.
Hey Man great video! maybe a quick tip, When steam cleaning put the end of the still in a bucket with water.
This will keep the steam under water ( Until its so hot it will evaporate) This helps me so my neighbors wont call the fire department when cleaning
Whether brewing or distilling, all these tips are great. Cheers!
Cheers mate! BTW dude, your NEPA vid last week was cool!
. . . which reminds me I did not actually comment on it! BAD JESSE! Hold one . . . . haha
I've been doing some all grain bourbons lately and I use the still to steam gelatinise the corn. I just stick some silicone tube from the end to a section of 10mm copper and run it down into my big ass 50l pot with a tee at the end. Works really well at holding the temp at 100c. Looks like you could do the same with those rig mate
Huh. . . . . That is a solid idea dude!!
I found a good way to clean your copper column and other still parts is to take one of those long plastic tubs for soaking wallpaper and mix up a solution of 5 gallons or 20 liters of water and 3 cups or 750 ML of citric acid powder and mix it up good then pour it into the plastic wallpaper tub then submerge your still column and parts and let soak over night and in the morning they will be shinny bright. You can get the pure citric acid powder on ebay and the wallpaper tub at home depot or lowes or DIY's, I don't know what stores they have in New Zealand but just ask for a wallpaper tub they know what it is.
You thoroughly talked about the cleaning of your column and condenser, but what about the boiler? How do you treat that between runs or after a strong flavored product? Thanks for the awesome videos. Your good at making the information very palateable. Thanks again.
Honestly mate, normally I just give it a rinse with the hose.
That's the point of using a SS pot. It's hard enough that nothing you distill embeds into it like copper.
It's funny you say you dont think ppl wanna see it but ..you always pick great topics for inbetween run days dont sell yourself short .. and the twins are beautiful little monsters ..more of them wouldn't hurt
Cheers mate, beautiful little monsters. . . . .hahahaha. Yeah that is a pretty good way of describing them!
Thanks mate :) Im sure we can sneak them in a little more ;)
Hello Jess I have run my peated malt mash stoped frementing last week can't wait to see your tones on it thank you for all the great videos
ayyyyyyeeeeee! Awesome mate, have you run it yet?
Yes did on Sunday the chocolate malt was a great idea with the peated malt
Hello fellow cooker of corn!
Someone may have already suggested this but instead of a pot to soak my posts, I use an ice chest/cooler. Everything lies flat so it takes less to submerge it.
Just my hint, I hope it's helpful😊
I clean all my copper with citric acid it works amazing returns it to the shiny day was bought
Citric acid powder and water,soak copper 30 to 60 minutes,then add in flat sodapop or lemon juice !!! Then rinse well. Makes copper better than when you bought it ! Sani-clean for fermenters,and leave WETTED ! Good On Ya,Mate !! I will add this. My use only needs room for 2" column. So, I glued caps on both ends of 30" of 4" PVC septic pipe,,then cut a 3" wide window on one side. Makes a great soaking tray in the nice warm shower. Columns, Liebig coolers,parrot.etc.
Nunyer, Jesse did show his Lady-Wife in the video on Preparing Oak. When he (stealthily) entered the house she was in the kitchen and authorised him to use the oven for toasting oak. He has a Lovely family.
Babies in the stillhouse, LoL! Cleaning the still isn't the sexiest topic, but it's important. Great vid:-)>
Haha wifey has wanted em on camera for a while. But you know what they say about kids on camera!
How proud a papa are you? A great one I hope. mine left home 25 years so I am hoping for a great hobby? Keep teaching
i agree with ben, cleaning is key. Also cheers on the connemara plug!
Thanks for the videos. I am sorely tempted by your approach. Pragmatic and fun.
Your twins are absolutely beautiful. You're a lucky guy!
I am indeed :) cheers mate
DOUBLE TROUBLE JESSE!!!😂😂😂😂
Would you recommend using 5 Star PBW or Oxiclean Free on your still periodically, like maybe monthly, to clean out oils and whatnot that can build up? For example, maybe you had a puke that dried on the inside of your lyne arm before you could flush it out.
Also, what would you recommend craft distillers use to clean out smaller lyne arms that are maybe 2-3 feet long but only have an inch or so inside diameter (i.e. what you'd typically encounter on smaller stills)? I thought you might use an aquarium pipe cleaner, but I also read that you could use a rifle bore brush. I was somewhat skeptical of the latter though, given that if you've got a copper lyne arm, it would likely get gouged on the inside from the brush, as gun cleaning brushes are, in my experience, typically made out of harder (/than copper) metals, like bronze.
If you use PBW or Oxiclean Free, would a pipe brush even be necessary? I'm not asking for myself, just thought it might be something someone else might want to know.
Nice video. Good tips that put me at ease.
I like your intro. Short and sweet! Then down to business.
Thanks mate :) Normally its "you talk to much" haha. . . . .Which is probably true. Especially if you ask my workmates ;)
When I clean my books instead of just water I throw some vinegar in it. Leaves the insides nice and shiny too without wreck the patina
Hi, when you clean with vinagre, how do you desapear the vinagre oddor???...Cristian from Puerto Montt, Chile.
Jesse you said run cheap bottle of vodka or cheap alcohol to make the first time sacrificial run. One bottle or 2 and how much water with it how fast do you want to run it. ?
How to prep or season a moonshine steel after a cleaning run
Thanks
Your welcome! Appreciate the super thanks :)
@@StillIt it is the least I could do as I don’t have patroon but I have watched a lot of your vids in the last 3 months. Your back catalogue is an awesome reference for new distillers. Thanks for continuing to create entertaining and useful content
I tried to still a sugar mash...it turned blue,then I tried to clean with water,citric acid and hydrogen peroxide...it turned blue again(do I need to distill right away,or can I wait a day?)
His and hers baby flannel magic. Gotta love it 😂
Classy right!?
Great video again brotha! By the way how many gallon is that blue container you got your fermenting in? I think I have one that had sucrose of some type in in thinking of using as a fermenter. Drill hole in top for airlock? Thanks!
That one is 200L / 53gal. I had to cut the top off that one. But I am on the hunt for more screw top ones so I can have air locks :)
hello, last year i screw up and got drunk while stilling plum mash, pot was on electric stove and it was heated until morning. My whole worm got smoldered inside and tar buildup inside. I have only 10mm inside diameter in worm and I cant get wire through to clean it with rug like a shotgun. It was first run on plums and second stilling i got brown shit coming out off my still. I tried to put my worm inside fire so smolder inside pipe got burned but now i'm running my second run on apple mash and I still get bad flavour from it again. I'm gonna try this steam run and i see if it helps otherwise i'm thinking i have to make a new worm.
we are of the same kind Bra, took the cordless 20V way to seriously
Great tips as always, Jessie, keep up the great videos. On a side note, have you heard back from the Whiskey Vault bastards? :-) cheers
Cheers mate! Indeed I have. Should have some notes within the fortnight. (not sure if that means a vid or not)
Don't make a video, just a short clip ;-) that's all we need to indulge the curiosity hahaha cheers and best regards.
Ah I mean I am not sure if they will make a vid out of it or send notes
I get an orange film inside mine- very annoying. I can’t really get into my thumper either. It’s made by Steven Stillz and literally only a small drain valve on it. Any suggestions and what is this orange residue?
Copper parts bubble plates etc leave in vinegar overnight.
Do u know if i can clean with citric acid , running it hot and how much.
Hi mate, long time brewer, starting back up again after a 10 year break, Have started watching your videos to relearn or leaarn something new I didn't know before, loving your videos..
What happened to your beard...?? lol
Can one use the same still for alcohol and plant oils and clean it
Or should you use different equipment
You know what. . . . I have not looked into it a whole lot. Something I should do some research on!
Cleaning is 96% of brewing/stilling/fermenting
Indeed!
What about the oxidation of the copper?
After a run, I wash my SS pot still, and column with water from the hose. Done.
I was just wondering if you've ever consider doing a video on freeze distilling. eg Applejack
Bearded and bored did a great vid on this. You should check it out if you haven't already.
Yeah definitely check out bearded's vid!!
just priced 2" copper pipe in the uk ....converted to ozzy dollars, $70 a meter , think that turbo 500 is looking like the way to go.
haha yeah its not cheap aye? There are a few mods on he t500 around the interwebs. Turns it into a solid little machine.
I paid $220.00 US for a ten foor stick of 2" several years ago
t500 is £399 over here with packing etc etc to build a still like Jesse has i would need £100 in tube £60 for a keg close to £100 for the fixings and thats not including a heat source or packing , thermometer,s and me having to buy brazing equipment or welding gas and wire if i went stainless , its close i suppose but a t500 is plug and play and resalable the frankenstill ide end up making would not be lol
How do you get the solder to stick to the stainless steel ferule fitting when you atach them to the end of your column????
Yeah it can be tricky huh? Good flux, lots of it and plenty of heat. That little mapp bottle I have really is only just enough.
I seriously want to know how you get lead free solder to stick to copper on one side and stainless steel on the other???? I'm talking about the joint between the SS ferrule and the copper pipe. I have used strong liquid acid flux that's specifically made for cleaning the copper solder joint and the solder will not bond to the SS it sticks to the copper but will not stick to the SS. How do you do it?
So it's a matter of getting it hot enough? I also use map gas instead of propane and I even sand up the stainless steel a bit and it still doesn't want to bond. I found that if you use thick walled copper pipe the SS ferrule fitting fits tight inside the copper pipe and makes a good seal, you have to pound the ferrule inside the copper pipe with a flat piece of wood on both ends of the copper pipe and a hammer to drive the SS fittings into the pipe and it's good to use a soft piece of wood on each end of the pipe otherwise you will distort the cooper pipe
Oh are you using solder or braze? Sorry I have only used braze, I guess some people call it silver solder. But just realised we may be talking two different things.
I use Oatey lead free solder and map gas.
Aw, look at the wee babies! They're so teeny! Oh, and the video was good too, I suppose.
For the outside for the Cooper rub some ketchup too clean it
In order to be a good brewer or distiller you must first learn to clean
And then learn patience!
Yeah it's like 80% cleaning and 20% fun... especially brewing
Patience, yes,backwoods cookers,clean enough to eat off at least.....
I thaught you couldn’t call it Irish whiskey unless it was made in the highlands lol.
Put a plastic sandwich bag over end of colum secure with a rubber band, do the same on end of condenser, fill with Cokacola and leave it for at least six hours. Pull the bags, rinse with warm water. Your copper will shine like a new penny leaving no bad taste or oxidation what so ever. No hard work. And yes oxidated copper does not pull sulfides out. But if you test this you will find out if your colum and condenser made with stainless steel you run the same wash through both, you, me or anybody else will not be able to taste one bit of differance. I know many will not believe this but copper does not pull enough sulfate out to make any differance at all. In the old days copper was the least reactive metal available to it was ideal. That was before stainless was known. It is a myth that copper cleans the distillation. How ever, oxidation will leave a flavor. Solder may oxidize more than the copper. If oxidized enough it could leave a blue tint to product. Oxidation off copper in itself is slightly toxic. A 2 liter coke cures the problem. A all glass distilation tested just as clean as copper. You have to have some years of oxidation to ever reach any danger of any toxic residue in the product. I am talking visibly green oxidation.
Those twins are so cute...they must look like their mother :-)
You saying I ain't cute?!?! 🤣
Welp, now I know. Thanks.
Love your videos but I go a little further I soak all my copper in food grade citrus acid my cap
, cap arm thump post and my worn condenser a clean still make clean liquor
Nice
So I guess if your using a thumper and worm you would wanna put some water in thumper too. And steam it all out.
Yeah I would :)
I certainly do. Rock salt, vinegar, water in the pot. Vinegar and water in the thumper. NO cooling water in the flake stand. Then crank up the heat and blast it. Double thick paste on all the seams and joints.
I dont clean mine atall lol wash run cleans it out so the sprit run will be clear
I’m late to this, but I’ll add my 2 cents worth. A plastic container long enough to fit all your long pieces in, and tall enough to cover your pipes. Then fill it with water enough to cover the top, then add 1 tablespoon citric acid per gallon of water, let sit... your copper will look like you spent hours polishing inside and out
Man, You and your wife should be very PROUD, your twins are Beautiful. Obviously, they must get their looks from their Mother? Just joking man, Beautiful Babies....
OK Jesse...under the Bus,MATE.......... Jesse has never shown his beautiful wifes image that I have seen.
I will say, YES, when your pot or thumper pukes, just stop everything and clean it out. PAIN. IN. THE. ASS. HOWEVER...If you don't, you can get a steady stream of heads or foreshots throughout the rest of your damn run as the beer in the line vaporizes contaminating your excellent apple split brandy, turning it into decent lamp fuel. I wonder how I know that???
haha, feeling a little salty about that run still bud? My condolences!
I ate a baby.... you have 2 double YUM'S.....they are a bit chewy, kinda like gummy bears.
I can see the resemblance between the twins and you.
(well, not the beard)
HAHAHAHA no beards . . . . . yet
I'd know that accent anywhere...
551
Oh LOOK!
She has twins too!
th-cam.com/video/AHSKR6K1k3c/w-d-xo.html
Ahahaha!
I'm to lazy to clean the still, I just let it run until the run is clear