So I've been at this for a little over 5 months. Before I purchased any equipment, I watched all the TH-cams I could. Between Still It, Bearded and Bored, Barley and Hops and StillWorks & Brewing......I had absolutely no idea what any of them were talking about. I bought a cheap stove top Amazon special and started my journey. Then I moved to a DigiBoil with a column and condensor....worked alright, but it wasn't what I was looking for. Finally purchased a milk can boiler, installed a heating element with a controller. Total game changer....I now had control. Watching this video, I completely understand everything Jesse was talking about. I am finally making some great product that I'm proud of and proud to have my friends try it.....and their reactions are exactly what I'm looking for. So I basically want to say thank you, Jesse. This channel has so much valuable information. I'm hooked on making spirits and this journey of chasing the craft. #ShineOn
It's so funny how you get these guys that you can just tell would have paid zero attention at school know extreme amounts about things like starches, carbohydrates, enzymes, chemical compounds etc etc. No offense to Jessie by that it's just amazing how having SOMETHING that you are interested in encourages you to learn quicker and in more depth than just listening to somebody talk about something you care little about in a classroom.
@@trousers2 i paid no attention in chemistry, but this is super interesting. the last time i paid attention in chemistry was when the teacher showed the distillation of red wine, and then set the distillate on fire. that was when i was 12 so ages and ages ago.
Profs often lack practical application experience. I've found this across the board. I.E., a business professor who never owned a business and makes 70k per annum can't likely explain how to monetize various business to develop consistent 7 figure revenues.
Hi Jesse, I first up super video, I do agree with you that there is no way of giving a temp that you should "chase" to get a specific result. I will however say that keeping an eye on your temp is a really good practice to ensure you are running your still correctly, let me explain my thinking. When you run your still you will see the temp rise as the vapour starts to move past the point where you have the thermometer if the temp starts to climb super fast you need to adjust the enery in to slow down the vapour speed, and when you have dialed in your take off at the spout you need to maintain the temp during specific parts of the run, keeping in mind you can't over boil water. The reason I believe temp is important part of the skill set of a distiller is to be able to learn how to ensure you don't rush the "boil" meaning slowing down during specific parts of the run to ensure "cleaner" transitions between point between cuts. If your temp keeps going up and down and not being stable to a degree to get the heat column with in the liquid to evenly distribute in the boiler will cause alot of flavor drift and smearing. A super interesting thing I have seen is if you have a pot simmering and you drop food coloring into the liquid at different points the way and time it takes it to evenly distribute in the liquid shows how the liquid mix and how the heat column behaves. Of course larger volumes will react differently but still super interesting. Thank you once again for the video. Cheers
My old reflux stiil has 2x 900W elements in the boiler. You start on both elements and at about 45mins you turn one off. The temp climbs slowly up to the 78 deg C. The dripping starts back at around 65deg C. I collect the heads until the drips smell sweet, so around the 100ml of methanol sounds about right. I then cook on for about 2 hours on a good run. It will hang at 78 deg C for a long time but I pull out at 80 Deg C. 81.3 I think is the isopropyl coming off. I put in another cup to collect until 85 Deg C to get the ISO because it is good for cleaning and as a fuel for methanol stoves. Top videos mate. Education is the key to life. It is so cheap and easy everyone should know how to do it. Never get there late and boil over. You will only do that once.
Yes, you can watch how your still starts and stops running and how temperatures hang out too know where you are in a run. You find you don't really need the thermometer anymore, other than to be sure but I can certainly do it without one.
My still head has a thermometer through a rubber bung. I see the true temperature. 78 deg C then pull out before 81 deg C. 81.3 is the isopropyl. I collect it too but in another jar. You will smell the methanol in the start it is smells bad like a chemical. Get the hearts only it is for your health.@@iam1smiley1
First comment, been watching and learning for just over a year. I want to say, it's not just that the content is excellent, its that the delivery has just gotten better and better. The best compliment I can pay you is that I can watch a video once and just understand it and that's almost entirely down to your delivery. Thanks.
I do Rum and use: 4 cups Strap Molasses and 4Lbs Pure Cane Sugar (Sugar in the Raw), 1Tabs 5.2, 1Tabs Acid Blend, 1Tabs Citric Acid and 1Tabs Angel Yellow starter yeast and mix with a drill and paint stirrer for 2 min then put 6 gal in the first run. I get about 14% ABV and I only put in 6 gal in my 8 gal still. (Edit/Add) - I do NOT like "Puking" so when the kettle's reaches 185*F I turn off the gas and let my home made BrewBoss controler take over. I keep the "Head temp at 70*F for a few minutes and checking my site glass every few minutus for fluctuations and raise it 5*F ever 5 min or so until it reaches 148*F. I keep it there until I get 59ml in a small container then I change to a leader container. (The methane I get is saved to light the charcoal for my Korean BBQ). and increase the head temp to 173*F for an hour, then I change to a large gal container and increase the head temp to 187*F for 10 to 12 hours or when the drips stop. I turn the heat off and let it cool down. The next morning I drain about 3gal into the keg this batch came from and fill the kettle up to 6 gal from the next keg and do it again until all kegs are used (one day at a time). I ferment in my 5 gal kegs so I only put in 4.5 gal in each one. When I finish a "Pot Still run" the next morning I drain 3 gal off into the keg it came from then add about 1.5 gal of water, 4lbs sugar, 1Tabs 5.2, 1Tabs Acid Blend, 1Tabs Citric Acid and 1tabs Angel Yellow starter yeast. Wait 2 weeks and do it again. Happy brewing ;
As a new distiller, I’ve taken to measuring the boil temp, it helps me learn the still. It lets me know as the temperature starts to rise I’m getting towards tails. I’ll probably stop fussing when I know more but I find it useful information. I have always adjusted still on flow rate but like the data points a thermometer gives me.
Wow Jessie , I have been running my still for about 15 yrs [ just a simple reflux tower 25 lt] just recently I have got a larger 50 lt still and I'm now of grid so I'm using a gas burner to heat and the first time I used it I felt like a beginner hahaha . I am so glad I came across your channel . I love your little chuckles . Cheers
I’ve been watching your channel for quite some time and always appreciate your help! Although everything you covered I have figured out myself, I just wanted to say for new people to the hobby this was one of the best videos I have seen. Should have posted it years ago. Love your work keep it up.
Great explanation Jesse. I use my thermometer at the top for gauging when to change the element wattage. I have a first generation Grain Father that has a 600w and 1600w heat setting. I use the 1600w to get to my temp and then switch over to the 600w for a slower output. 1600 w to raise the temp and 600w to hold steady/very slow rise. works well. I would suggest that now you have opened Pandora's box, do a video on how to control the energy input. Remember, the US is 120 volts.
@@adamparisi745 I assume you are 120v? Have been thinking about a SCR, a 4000w max controller. They are inexpensive on Amazon. Just not sure if dropping the energy in-put to say 1200-1400w would produce a difference in flavor from the product. The flow is pretty slow at the full 1600w. Your thoughts?
@@cjcout99 I'm on 240v. I have a boiler with a single 2000w element running off one of those cheap 4000w SCR. Once I'm up to temp I'll drop the voltage down to 120-130 which will give me a power input around 600W. So pretty much the same way you're running. Benefit is I can slowly raise voltage as alcohol is boiled off and boiling point rises. Another benefit is less fiddling with coolant flow which on a t500 is bloody annoying. As for flavour, I can tell a difference. Adjusting the power down results in a less energetic boil which allows for more reflux to occur within the column. I find neutral spirit cleaner tasting.
And yes, I think a vid on reflux theory would be a good one, there is a lack of understanding in the T500 group about power vs reflux so it would be interesting.. Keep up the good work, love your vids..
Yep, perfect ❤ It’s often hard to explain this part of the theory to laymen/people, but you did a decent job. 100% do the reflux theory video. I perform the magic regularly, but still tie my tongue in knots trying to describe the theory of operation to the Average Joe.
Jessie- Thank You!! You are quite a treasure of information! I’ve been around a few runs and am now getting on it on my own. You are entertaining, informative and take a lot of the panicking?questioning? O my God I just F’d up royally and ruined everything out of the equation. If this was your intent in creating this site your Spot On! Thank You so Much for all your efforts.( and a Big Thank You for your Wife putting up with all of this! I know mine has had a few laughs at my expense in this process. So Cheers ! And keep it up! We’re All In!!
The only thing I use my thermometer for is a rough idea of when my run is going to start producing and when it is getting to the end. Everything else is based off taste, hydrometer and speed it is running. I could throw my thermometer out and it wouldn’t effect my product at all
I run my reflux still 80% of the time with the same recipe, and it's so constant I really can use the kettle and head temp to know exactly where I am. I also use the same volumes, so I know how much heads or hearts to collect. All that said, it only indicates when to start tasting and smelling to get the best product and just means I don't need to be constantly monitoring that aspect of the run.
I love your videos... I'm wanting to get into rum distillation after going on a tour to the Bundaberg rum factory... You are making it easier for me to understand thank you,..
As a kid learning I thought temp determined ABV. Just stay below waters boiling point and only get pure alcohol. Great grandma put a few drops of water on the counter then a few drops of brandy on the counter. Smeared each puddle with her fingers. A few minutes latter she pointed out they had both evaporated at the same temperature. Even ice cubes evaporate. Temp only effects rate, not total volume. More of an overlapping fuzzy curve than a line.
Thanks , very helpfull ! I learn very much from your videos and that makes things more safe as well as making better choices for better quality and outcome at the end of the day. Great videos for the novice. I did see George comment that at the very start of drips coming off it will go for a short time and then pause. After that it will run a stream and then drip drip drip, at that point hearts are started check for smell and taste though, run until product stops coming off or until you get that wet dog 🐕 taste, or is just very weak and watery. That helped me a lot to get me in the idea zone of what I need to look for.
I feel a little embarrassed having wrote a response before watching your entire video on this. Makes alot more sense. I will say this, When i started distilling, it was around 30 years ago, no shows on the tele, no internet with videos and info. So i built a reflux style using a stainless milkcan and a copper reflux towere with built in condenser etc on top of the milk can lid. I froze five gallon jugs of ice water put them into a barrel of water and pumped using a little giant back into the barrel for the condensing. The first time i ever did a run, due to paranoia and not trusting people lol, i was alone in my basement of my 1864 home. I had the windows open, it was storming out etc. I had a rubber grommet and thermometer at the top of the reflux tower. I swear, nothing came out of the still until it hit 178 degrees F! I laughed so loud i remember i was so excited and pleased none of my sweated joints had leaked. Anyway i did play with the cooling water flow rate and flame the entire time and held the run to a five degree window for 1.5 hours. 10 gallons of peach etc. I still have that crazy still but no longer use it as i'm learning about flavor and pot distilling thanks to you and others on the web. Cheers from Maine! MT
Outstanding video, Jesse. I don't have a thermometer on any of my stills (air still, t500 alembic and 50L keg with many options). Thought it might be nice, but I guess I'll keep going without and focus on running things as they come. On the stuff I do regularly I can go by volume collected
I'm actually surprised with your thoughts on holding a temp to get rid of the "bad stuff" at the start. I've seen 4 or 5 times in George's videos him advocating to do that as an option and explains it with his famous white boards lol. I have this in my notes from one of his videos "168° (at sea level) until it stops (10min or so) and the 4shots and heads are both done." This is for a 5gal mash. Either way, I love your explanations here and they are now making me question George's thoughts on the subject. Keep up the great work!
i respect george because he can run laps around us on experience but experience is one thing and the science behind it is another. You can go your entire life thinking certain things and it will work, most distillers don't know about boiling ranges in mixtures, rather they believe in the fixed boiling points and they've made some good liquor. I've recently done a distillery tour where the head distiller said we stay close to 173 and then we won't get much water.
Jesse, if you read this, I just want to thank you for your incredible videos. Your passion is contagious, and I feel so much more secure/confident starting my own distilling adventure, knowing I have your videos to fall back on for tips and advice. A big thank you, all the way form Spain (Which is literally the diametrically opposite side of the world from NZ!! )
I am using the Vevor Air still Mine needs to be set to 93 to produce, and then it stops. I keep increasing like this every degree u til it hits 99. Any more than this and it spews water . I love the channel!!!!
IMHO ol the key to Jesse’s whole collection is to watch and get a general working understanding of the operation (be a good mimic), go to work and then come back a rewatch the videos. My understanding of the videos increases the more hands I am…
interesting fact - for me - is that the professionals in traditional fruit brandies around here using alembic (or similar) still designs in combination with plates and thumpers tell you straight out "take off hearts from 80 to 91°C". That might be related to recipes and still type used (and allowed...) standardly, but there's no word about smell, taste, takeoff speed, just plain temperature profiles for different fruit mashes. Good to have learned the more pot still based "trust your senses" - approach as well... I learned a lot during experiments with different column heights and packing on a 25 litre boiler, slow temperature increase and taking cuts in very small containers in the first attempts. More heat / faster take off immediately makes it harder to do clean cuts, especially between 65 and 80°C, where you can get one big glass to toss away or one shot glass blue stuff, one for acetone, one for super glue and them the headsy, but almost clean stuff where you might decide from taste when to collect the goodies... and after all: hey, it's for the fun, so take your time and enjoy the ride...
Jesse, you nailed it in a nutshell, that was one of your bests over all the years I have been following you, & it is the same even if you are doing a simple sugar wash all the time, you might add an extra 500g of sugar by mistake in the wash & the final reading will be a bit different so will the way the still runs, Cheers
For around 8yrs I've been using the trusty T500, stainless steel, no copper other than the standard saddles in the coloum. All standard Still Spirits kit and been on Birdwatchers recipe for all that time bar the stuff that came with the kit initially and a few top up Still Spirits Fast Yeast brews to tide me over on a diminished supply when I get lazy. As it's getting close to the foreshots I get the output water temp as close to 55°C generally as it's running for me once the needle valve is dialled in and that will do the job for the 2.5-3 hours it produces for, depending how well the fermentation went. I don't mind running a bit long for more yield because once it's soaked on burnt white 'Murican oak I don't notice a big difference in flavour. I soak at 55%ABV which by the power of mathematics means I pour into a 700ml bottle then transfer to a 1L bottle using cheese cloth to seperate any wood debris etc and top up to make a damn close to 40%ABV delicious drop. Keeping the output under 60°C means as it's doing it's thing it has some headroom for temp spikes without going over 62-63, but will also come back down within a few minutes at most. Happy brewing pissheads.
Idk if I told you but I engineered a 3 stainless steel bucket system which starts at 16 gal. (60L) the using a 24” copper lines jumps to a 8gal(30L) then to a optional 15” copper line to my 3.5 gal which is a optional quick detach bucket for flavoring and a tiny bit more distillation before it pumps to the 12ft of 5/8” copper coil in my big bucket. Otherwise the 30L goes to the condenser. I can’t do social media so I’m telling you here. Thanks brotha stills being built today
I have a thermometer in the middle of my condensor...for me it is the best indicator for de complete proces! It helps me perfectly to regulate power input and cooling water input.
Excellent! Try a variable power supply on your air pot sometime. The condenser is probably overkill and even though the cooling fan is slowed with less input power it will still work perfectly along with the lower boiler temp. Using that you can do a strip and a spirit run with positive results. (hypothetically of course)
@@jesse.marques Yes, exactly my point. Wide open for stripping, reduced power for a spirit run. The condenser can handle either even though the condenser fan is running slower because of the reduced power input. (spirit run) I have read some people have rewired the air stills so that the condenser fan runs at full speed and power and the heating element can be controlled with a power supply.
@@LP23D6 I have done exactly this, with one of the vevor 750w air stills, and it makes a huge difference. It's a completely different beast. I'd always recommend people stay away from the more expensive PID temp controlled units, buy the cheaper one and get an SCR. It will come in under the price of the temp controlled one, and infinitely more controllable. I have learned this lesson the more expensive way.
Temp is one datapoint. On just about any still you want to discard anything below 70c or lower if at high altitude. The first decent ester starts coming off at around 70c and depending on how much you like butter you may want to discard some of that ethyl acetate. If you are going slow on your take off you can get a pretty clean distinction below ethyl acetate where stuff is mainly acetone and methanol and when the first ethyl acetate appears. Obviously with a pot still you do not get as clean of a break as with a reflux still. For a stripping run i starts slow then blast it and slow down again as the vapor abv gets low. I can discard that forerun that isn't even good for feints.
I learned a lot from this video thanks for doing it. I’m new and haven’t distilled anything yet. Still trying to learn about what I need to do and how to do it. I’ve learned a ton from your videos and I’m thinking I’m about ready to start dabbling in distilling. Thanks again I’ll keep watching for more information about the craft.
Jesse, somewhere back in my history I read that the optimum temp for distillation of alcohol was 176 F. That is supposed to be the temp at which alcohol vaporizes and thus would rise and go thru a condenser to cool back to alcohol.
Great Explanation! I like to think the thermometers are Data Points as well, but not gospel. If all things are equal, they help to start to formulate a process flow.
If you can account for ambient barometric pressure, and pay attention to your phase diagrams, you can get your process down pretty precisely. Even if you're not chasing a consistent product, having the data points and the output is a good way to help make your decisions more informed.
Definitely keen for the reflux theory video if you haven't made it already!? Really intrigued as to how this all fits together. Ive been playing with a still spirits reflux column for a number of years and this video has answered a hunch if questions I've been thinking about, but also raised a few as well...
Thanks Jesse. I've had pots, reflux, 'super reflux' and home made stills since '08. I've been running the same dextrose and yeast for a long time too, all fermented in a temp controlled fridge at 22° for 7 days. The temp of the element is the only thing I haven't played with! Given what you've said, wouldn't it make sense to have a multi stage element to use the same still head to do fast stripping runs, drip, drip runs and super slow runs by changing the element output?
I’m pretty sure the water and ethanol also physically interact. At least that’s what I remember from college. That’s why the azeotrope point exists; you can’t disentangle water and ethanol beyond that poor through evaporation. One just drags the other along.
Well, this a great vid! It's earned a place in my 'links' file that I share with those who know even less than me). You should be honored!! ;) The only thing I did not hear mentioned was the 'smearing' that can happen in the vapor if the boil is too vigorous, which, I think is 'the why' the drip rate is so important.
Jesse, you have done a fine job explaining a very complex topic. I have recently become interested in how distillate temperature coming off the condenser affects flavor, thanks to Alan Bishop whom you recently interviewed on your podcast. Basically he argues that hotter distillate coming off the still will create harsher flavors. I have always run my output stream (drip) pretty slowly because I use an air condenser that is easily overpowered. My condenser output temperature is about the same as ambient. Do any of you Chasers have an opinion about this? The only other thing I have say about your topic is that even a pot still can run at a steady (but slowly, inevitably rising) temperature when you are in hearts. This, I do pay attention to vapor temperature and adjust my heat input to find this rough “balance” point. Cheers!
That's a perfect explanation!! I wish i knew this when i got started...what's your opinion about the water temperature you cool with? I use icewater, but do you think that makes a difference compared with tapwater?
Maybe not the best place for a question, but have you ever noticed after drinking your own products, particularly “bourbon”, that when you go back and sample some commercial products you get a “headsy” nose off the commercial product? Not sure if it’s the fact that the commercial product has more complexity from years of aging in a barrel, or if it’s because drinking local product with tighter cuts is actually better? Or I’m just getting used to a less complex product. Thoughts?
Exceptional video, especially for those starting out. You’ve put a lot of thought into it. Perhaps a great follow up could be flavor of spirit vs water temperature going into the condenser. Let’s not forget, behind every good man….. 😂😂😂
Good job! Knowing how one's still operates is critical and all stills react differently. I control temperature using a PID temp controller which can maintain pot temp to within a couple of degrees, but as the run progresses the pot temperature must be raised since it takes more thermal energy to break the remaining alcohol free of the other liquids in the pot. The key is to observe the out flow rate vs temperature and adjust pot temperature as needed to keep the out flow pretty much constant throughout the run. Experience teaches you how best to make temperature changes and that experience comes with trial and error.
Agreed, I wish I knew this 3 years ago when I first started playing with distilling, Good on mate, Just a bit late!! Hehe nah all in time, we all learn best out of our own experiences, Thanks and ciao ciao
My 750W air still basically runs solid on does not pass vapor when distilling water. Turned down a little below 100C it does not pass spirits vapor either. Its heat exchanger might be larger than this one.
You'd be surprised how much of a difference buggering off the temp control does. I bypassed it and use an SCR to control power. Knocked down the power from 750w to 250ish. My output ABV went from around 60% up to around 75%, with a much cleaner taste. 12% ABV sugar wash. I also tuck a copper scrubby up in the lid for a little reflux. More volume at the end of a run as well. Sure, it took a bit longer for the run but worth it. Also, run the condenser fan on it's own circuit, so it's always running. I don't do this anymore as I move to a t500, but I still run it this way when I'm making gin.
Boiling temperature of a mix will depend on the relative concentration....you cannot control temperature....you can only control heat input...temperature at boil tells you what the mix concentration is...
Hello. Thanks for great video :) I heard that adding salt to mash before distilling makes high ABV for potstills. Is it true? Is it really helps by increasing boil temp of water and make ethenol seperation easier? If it helps what about quality of spirit? Should I or we try it :)?
Excellent video. What program are you using on the induction cooker? I have the 4937/72 model, took me a while to figure out how to stop it ramping up in temp, found manual mode on hot pot although yours didn't appear to do the stop start burst. Please and thank you. I thought the learning curve on beer was tough. LOL
Hey dude, I was wondering if you could do a clip about how finings actually work in a sugar wash? Or if you have touched on this already could you direct me to the video please? Really gaining heaps of knowledge from your channel mate, Kia Ora from Htown!
How's it mate. Finnings work by clumping all the little parts together. Literally sticking the tiny stuff floating around together into larger clumps. They are to small to drop out of suspension by themselves. But clumped together they will fall to the bottom. If your running a sugar wash with heaps of nutrient additives and yeast like turbo etc it can be worth it. It's essentially keeping the sketchy stuff out of the still so cuts down on off flavors. If however your running a recipe that's designed to be clean from the start you done really need it. It's just going to add a extra expense and more effort. Chur
This is so random but the boiling temp could also affect flavor profiles if your up at say 13000 feet in elevation the boiling point in F drops 25 degrees. So you would be able to heat the mash to a lower point and get totally different flavors that are less altered from the heat! 😁
Yes but that isn't necessarily a good things. At higher temp and acidity you get more ester formation. Esters greatly impact the flavor. So at lower temp you get less esters. It is all a balance.
In my younger years i used a 2" reflux still. We only used sugar mash with abv around 15-17 % . I remember the rule was drip-drip and no stream..It took for ever but the abv was high. My question is..If u have 4" colomn will you then be able to increase the output to a nice steady stream and still keep the high abv? Cheers from Norway 🥶
I think newbies using a PID controller often don't get it that setting the PID at a certain fixed temperature for the entire run is wrong. As you noted, the pot temperature will rise as the ABV decreases over the course of the run. With this fact in mind, the PID temperature will need to be increased periodically. When to make the change is easy to determine by simply watching the output. When the output drops off is a clear sign the PID temperature needs to be increased. Where the PID shines is in keeping the temperature steady until there is a need to change it. This the PID can do far better than can be done manually since the PID "learns" and can anticipate more precisely just how much to change the temperature without over doing it.
+1 on the reflux theory video. I reduce the power on my T500 column and I need to increase the temp of the condensate water by 10C (or more). I think I know why. Would love to see a video from you confirming our denying my theory.
A quick question, given that a certain percentage alcohol boils at a certain temperature, does this equate to the temperature at the top of the vapour path equals the percentage of alcohol coming off the spout? Thanks for great videos!
Thanks for the info, I agree that temperature is kind of a senseless factor but how about cap size and shape. Wonder if you change the size of your cap/column how will that affect a run time and efficiency?
Great video. As I have a gold fish brain and can't watch all your videos again and again I dream you will write a thick book for the layman about all you know about this craft, all kinds of stills, all topics regarding theory, practice, various mashes, buying equipment, making equipment, gadgets, procedures, pre- and post- work, recipes, cutting, power management etc etc etc... I sign up to buy the first copy out of the press.
Really informative, thanks. Is there a recommended amount of mash you want to have in your still when you start a run, or is it just a question of filling the pot to capacity?
Hi everyone, looking at the turbo 500 kit, as recommended to me. My problem is space is at a premium here. Better get to my question,,, what is the overall height of the turbo 500 kit??? Cheers...
Still it, If you make the same mash and run it on the same still every time. Can you make cuts based on about of liquid coming out of the still compared to what goes in the pot?
Firt of all great video and thanks for all you do. I have a question for you. Is it possible to have water that's too cold? When I ran my reflux the head struggled to get past 110C so i adjusted the flow to be lower and that's when it really started to run.
So I've been at this for a little over 5 months. Before I purchased any equipment, I watched all the TH-cams I could. Between Still It, Bearded and Bored, Barley and Hops and StillWorks & Brewing......I had absolutely no idea what any of them were talking about. I bought a cheap stove top Amazon special and started my journey. Then I moved to a DigiBoil with a column and condensor....worked alright, but it wasn't what I was looking for. Finally purchased a milk can boiler, installed a heating element with a controller. Total game changer....I now had control. Watching this video, I completely understand everything Jesse was talking about. I am finally making some great product that I'm proud of and proud to have my friends try it.....and their reactions are exactly what I'm looking for. So I basically want to say thank you, Jesse. This channel has so much valuable information. I'm hooked on making spirits and this journey of chasing the craft. #ShineOn
Awesome job, Jesse. I’m a Chemical Engineer and you explained it a lot better than my professor in college!
It's so funny how you get these guys that you can just tell would have paid zero attention at school know extreme amounts about things like starches, carbohydrates, enzymes, chemical compounds etc etc. No offense to Jessie by that it's just amazing how having SOMETHING that you are interested in encourages you to learn quicker and in more depth than just listening to somebody talk about something you care little about in a classroom.
@@trousers2 i paid no attention in chemistry, but this is super interesting. the last time i paid attention in chemistry was when the teacher showed the distillation of red wine, and then set the distillate on fire. that was when i was 12 so ages and ages ago.
Profs often lack practical application experience. I've found this across the board. I.E., a business professor who never owned a business and makes 70k per annum can't likely explain how to monetize various business to develop consistent 7 figure revenues.
he tell you about jake leg?
After an 11 year break from distilling, I am finding your knowledge is refreshing my memory as to what I thought I knew! and updating me.
Same here, 25 year break for me and I'm here to update because I'm working on get hired as a distiller at one of our local distilleries.
Answered a lot of my questions as someone who is curious about how distillation works. Thanks.
Dead on explanation. Best I have seen. Very well done Jesse. Thank you.
Hi Jesse,
I first up super video, I do agree with you that there is no way of giving a temp that you should "chase" to get a specific result.
I will however say that keeping an eye on your temp is a really good practice to ensure you are running your still correctly, let me explain my thinking.
When you run your still you will see the temp rise as the vapour starts to move past the point where you have the thermometer if the temp starts to climb super fast you need to adjust the enery in to slow down the vapour speed, and when you have dialed in your take off at the spout you need to maintain the temp during specific parts of the run, keeping in mind you can't over boil water.
The reason I believe temp is important part of the skill set of a distiller is to be able to learn how to ensure you don't rush the "boil" meaning slowing down during specific parts of the run to ensure "cleaner" transitions between point between cuts.
If your temp keeps going up and down and not being stable to a degree to get the heat column with in the liquid to evenly distribute in the boiler will cause alot of flavor drift and smearing.
A super interesting thing I have seen is if you have a pot simmering and you drop food coloring into the liquid at different points the way and time it takes it to evenly distribute in the liquid shows how the liquid mix and how the heat column behaves.
Of course larger volumes will react differently but still super interesting.
Thank you once again for the video.
Cheers
My old reflux stiil has 2x 900W elements in the boiler. You start on both elements and at about 45mins you turn one off. The temp climbs slowly up to the 78 deg C. The dripping starts back at around 65deg C. I collect the heads until the drips smell sweet, so around the 100ml of methanol sounds about right. I then cook on for about 2 hours on a good run. It will hang at 78 deg C for a long time but I pull out at 80 Deg C. 81.3 I think is the isopropyl coming off. I put in another cup to collect until 85 Deg C to get the ISO because it is good for cleaning and as a fuel for methanol stoves. Top videos mate. Education is the key to life. It is so cheap and easy everyone should know how to do it. Never get there late and boil over. You will only do that once.
Yes, you can watch how your still starts and stops running and how temperatures hang out too know where you are in a run. You find you don't really need the thermometer anymore, other than to be sure but I can certainly do it without one.
My still head has a thermometer through a rubber bung. I see the true temperature. 78 deg C then pull out before 81 deg C. 81.3 is the isopropyl. I collect it too but in another jar. You will smell the methanol in the start it is smells bad like a chemical. Get the hearts only it is for your health.@@iam1smiley1
First comment, been watching and learning for just over a year. I want to say, it's not just that the content is excellent, its that the delivery has just gotten better and better. The best compliment I can pay you is that I can watch a video once and just understand it and that's almost entirely down to your delivery. Thanks.
Wow! I’ve been watching you for several years and the production value of your content has risen astronomically Jesse. Keep up the good work!
I do Rum and use: 4 cups Strap Molasses and 4Lbs Pure Cane Sugar (Sugar in the Raw), 1Tabs 5.2, 1Tabs Acid Blend, 1Tabs Citric Acid and 1Tabs Angel Yellow starter yeast and mix with a drill and paint stirrer for 2 min then put 6 gal in the first run. I get about 14% ABV and I only put in 6 gal in my 8 gal still. (Edit/Add) - I do NOT like "Puking" so when the kettle's reaches 185*F I turn off the gas and let my home made BrewBoss controler take over. I keep the "Head temp at 70*F for a few minutes and checking my site glass every few minutus for fluctuations and raise it 5*F ever 5 min or so until it reaches 148*F. I keep it there until I get 59ml in a small container then I change to a leader container. (The methane I get is saved to light the charcoal for my Korean BBQ). and increase the head temp to 173*F for an hour, then I change to a large gal container and increase the head temp to 187*F for 10 to 12 hours or when the drips stop. I turn the heat off and let it cool down. The next morning I drain about 3gal into the keg this batch came from and fill the kettle up to 6 gal from the next keg and do it again until all kegs are used (one day at a time). I ferment in my 5 gal kegs so I only put in 4.5 gal in each one. When I finish a "Pot Still run" the next morning I drain 3 gal off into the keg it came from then add about 1.5 gal of water, 4lbs sugar, 1Tabs 5.2, 1Tabs Acid Blend, 1Tabs Citric Acid and 1tabs Angel Yellow starter yeast. Wait 2 weeks and do it again. Happy brewing ;
As a new distiller, I’ve taken to measuring the boil temp, it helps me learn the still. It lets me know as the temperature starts to rise I’m getting towards tails. I’ll probably stop fussing when I know more but I find it useful information. I have always adjusted still on flow rate but like the data points a thermometer gives me.
Wow Jessie , I have been running my still for about 15 yrs [ just a simple reflux tower 25 lt] just recently I have got a larger 50 lt still and I'm now of grid so I'm using a gas burner to heat and the first time I used it I felt like a beginner hahaha . I am so glad I came across your channel . I love your little chuckles . Cheers
Excellent !!! This should be required watching for all (new?) distillers.
I’ve been watching your channel for quite some time and always appreciate your help!
Although everything you covered I have figured out myself, I just wanted to say for new people to the hobby this was one of the best videos I have seen.
Should have posted it years ago.
Love your work keep it up.
Great explanation Jesse. I use my thermometer at the top for gauging when to change the element wattage. I have a first generation Grain Father that has a 600w and 1600w heat setting. I use the 1600w to get to my temp and then switch over to the 600w for a slower output. 1600 w to raise the temp and 600w to hold steady/very slow rise. works well. I would suggest that now you have opened Pandora's box, do a video on how to control the energy input. Remember, the US is 120 volts.
I pretty much do the same thing on a t500 but using an SCR to control power input. Also, wattage is wattage, doesn't matter if its 120v or 240v.
@@adamparisi745 I assume you are 120v? Have been thinking about a SCR, a 4000w max controller. They are inexpensive on Amazon. Just not sure if dropping the energy in-put to say 1200-1400w would produce a difference in flavor from the product. The flow is pretty slow at the full 1600w. Your thoughts?
@@cjcout99 I'm on 240v. I have a boiler with a single 2000w element running off one of those cheap 4000w SCR. Once I'm up to temp I'll drop the voltage down to 120-130 which will give me a power input around 600W. So pretty much the same way you're running. Benefit is I can slowly raise voltage as alcohol is boiled off and boiling point rises. Another benefit is less fiddling with coolant flow which on a t500 is bloody annoying. As for flavour, I can tell a difference. Adjusting the power down results in a less energetic boil which allows for more reflux to occur within the column. I find neutral spirit cleaner tasting.
And yes, I think a vid on reflux theory would be a good one, there is a lack of understanding in the T500 group about power vs reflux so it would be interesting.. Keep up the good work, love your vids..
Yep, perfect ❤ It’s often hard to explain this part of the theory to laymen/people, but you did a decent job.
100% do the reflux theory video. I perform the magic regularly, but still tie my tongue in knots trying to describe the theory of operation to the Average Joe.
Jessie- Thank You!! You are quite a treasure of information! I’ve been around a few runs and am now getting on it on my own. You are entertaining, informative and take a lot of the panicking?questioning? O my God I just F’d up royally and ruined everything out of the equation. If this was your intent in creating this site your Spot On! Thank You so Much for all your efforts.( and a Big Thank You for your Wife putting up with all of this! I know mine has had a few laughs at my expense in this process. So Cheers ! And keep it up! We’re All In!!
The only thing I use my thermometer for is a rough idea of when my run is going to start producing and when it is getting to the end. Everything else is based off taste, hydrometer and speed it is running. I could throw my thermometer out and it wouldn’t effect my product at all
I run my reflux still 80% of the time with the same recipe, and it's so constant I really can use the kettle and head temp to know exactly where I am. I also use the same volumes, so I know how much heads or hearts to collect. All that said, it only indicates when to start tasting and smelling to get the best product and just means I don't need to be constantly monitoring that aspect of the run.
Looking forward to seeing that new reflux Airstill in action! Very curious the quality/quantity it produces on just a 4L boiler charge...
I love your videos... I'm wanting to get into rum distillation after going on a tour to the Bundaberg rum factory... You are making it easier for me to understand thank you,..
Perfect explanation, perfect video length, perfect beard, perfect shirt. What else can we wish for? Thank you!
As a kid learning I thought temp determined ABV. Just stay below waters boiling point and only get pure alcohol. Great grandma put a few drops of water on the counter then a few drops of brandy on the counter. Smeared each puddle with her fingers. A few minutes latter she pointed out they had both evaporated at the same temperature. Even ice cubes evaporate. Temp only effects rate, not total volume. More of an overlapping fuzzy curve than a line.
This was a great review of a lot of the science without feeling overly technical. Really appreciated!
The explanation of boiling temp versus draw down was exactly what I’d been considering. No steam equals no (major) problems.
Thanks , very helpfull ! I learn very much from your videos and that makes things more safe as well as making better choices for better quality and outcome at the end of the day. Great videos for the novice. I did see George comment that at the very start of drips coming off it will go for a short time and then pause. After that it will run a stream and then drip drip drip, at that point hearts are started check for smell and taste though, run until product stops coming off or until you get that wet dog 🐕 taste, or is just very weak and watery. That helped me a lot to get me in the idea zone of what I need to look for.
great explanation and also helps in my understanding why you sometimes want to double or even triple distill something :)
I feel a little embarrassed having wrote a response before watching your entire video on this. Makes alot more sense. I will say this, When i started distilling, it was around 30 years ago, no shows on the tele, no internet with videos and info. So i built a reflux style using a stainless milkcan and a copper reflux towere with built in condenser etc on top of the milk can lid. I froze five gallon jugs of ice water put them into a barrel of water and pumped using a little giant back into the barrel for the condensing. The first time i ever did a run, due to paranoia and not trusting people lol, i was alone in my basement of my 1864 home. I had the windows open, it was storming out etc. I had a rubber grommet and thermometer at the top of the reflux tower. I swear, nothing came out of the still until it hit 178 degrees F! I laughed so loud i remember i was so excited and pleased none of my sweated joints had leaked. Anyway i did play with the cooling water flow rate and flame the entire time and held the run to a five degree window for 1.5 hours. 10 gallons of peach etc. I still have that crazy still but no longer use it as i'm learning about flavor and pot distilling thanks to you and others on the web. Cheers from Maine! MT
Outstanding video, Jesse. I don't have a thermometer on any of my stills (air still, t500 alembic and 50L keg with many options). Thought it might be nice, but I guess I'll keep going without and focus on running things as they come. On the stuff I do regularly I can go by volume collected
I'm actually surprised with your thoughts on holding a temp to get rid of the "bad stuff" at the start. I've seen 4 or 5 times in George's videos him advocating to do that as an option and explains it with his famous white boards lol. I have this in my notes from one of his videos "168° (at sea level) until it stops (10min or so) and the 4shots and heads are both done." This is for a 5gal mash.
Either way, I love your explanations here and they are now making me question George's thoughts on the subject.
Keep up the great work!
i respect george because he can run laps around us on experience but experience is one thing and the science behind it is another. You can go your entire life thinking certain things and it will work, most distillers don't know about boiling ranges in mixtures, rather they believe in the fixed boiling points and they've made some good liquor. I've recently done a distillery tour where the head distiller said we stay close to 173 and then we won't get much water.
Jesse, if you read this, I just want to thank you for your incredible videos. Your passion is contagious, and I feel so much more secure/confident starting my own distilling adventure, knowing I have your videos to fall back on for tips and advice. A big thank you, all the way form Spain (Which is literally the diametrically opposite side of the world from NZ!! )
I am using the Vevor Air still
Mine needs to be set to 93 to produce, and then it stops.
I keep increasing like this every degree u til it hits 99. Any more than this and it spews water .
I love the channel!!!!
You are an awesome teacher. Every video I watch I learn so much.
IMHO ol the key to Jesse’s whole collection is to watch and get a general working understanding of the operation (be a good mimic), go to work and then come back a rewatch the videos.
My understanding of the videos increases the more hands I am…
interesting fact - for me - is that the professionals in traditional fruit brandies around here using alembic (or similar) still designs in combination with plates and thumpers tell you straight out "take off hearts from 80 to 91°C". That might be related to recipes and still type used (and allowed...) standardly, but there's no word about smell, taste, takeoff speed, just plain temperature profiles for different fruit mashes. Good to have learned the more pot still based "trust your senses" - approach as well...
I learned a lot during experiments with different column heights and packing on a 25 litre boiler, slow temperature increase and taking cuts in very small containers in the first attempts. More heat / faster take off immediately makes it harder to do clean cuts, especially between 65 and 80°C, where you can get one big glass to toss away or one shot glass blue stuff, one for acetone, one for super glue and them the headsy, but almost clean stuff where you might decide from taste when to collect the goodies... and after all: hey, it's for the fun, so take your time and enjoy the ride...
oh you'd be surprised how many distillers in big companies don't understand the exact science behind it.
Well done Jesse. I'm new ish to distilling (2years) and this video covers the theory so well IMO. Internet research material at its finest.
Would love to see a video on reflux theory! Thank you sir!
Jesse, you nailed it in a nutshell, that was one of your bests over all the years I have been following you, & it is the same even if you are doing a simple sugar wash all the time, you might add an extra 500g of sugar by mistake in the wash & the final reading will be a bit different so will the way the still runs, Cheers
The thermometer is very useful, not so much for a fix reading, but to help you guess what's going on in the still.
For around 8yrs I've been using the trusty T500, stainless steel, no copper other than the standard saddles in the coloum. All standard Still Spirits kit and been on Birdwatchers recipe for all that time bar the stuff that came with the kit initially and a few top up Still Spirits Fast Yeast brews to tide me over on a diminished supply when I get lazy. As it's getting close to the foreshots I get the output water temp as close to 55°C generally as it's running for me once the needle valve is dialled in and that will do the job for the 2.5-3 hours it produces for, depending how well the fermentation went. I don't mind running a bit long for more yield because once it's soaked on burnt white 'Murican oak I don't notice a big difference in flavour. I soak at 55%ABV which by the power of mathematics means I pour into a 700ml bottle then transfer to a 1L bottle using cheese cloth to seperate any wood debris etc and top up to make a damn close to 40%ABV delicious drop. Keeping the output under 60°C means as it's doing it's thing it has some headroom for temp spikes without going over 62-63, but will also come back down within a few minutes at most. Happy brewing pissheads.
This channel is gold! I’ve been binging for weeks!
Thanks Jesse
Keep up the good content
Oh btw; B.P. is on a curve (on a chart) so that helps to explain a little of what you were saying
Great video man, this will help a lot of new distillers. Yes, please do make the reflux theory video...
Idk if I told you but I engineered a 3 stainless steel bucket system which starts at 16 gal. (60L) the using a 24” copper lines jumps to a 8gal(30L) then to a optional 15” copper line to my 3.5 gal which is a optional quick detach bucket for flavoring and a tiny bit more distillation before it pumps to the 12ft of 5/8” copper coil in my big bucket. Otherwise the 30L goes to the condenser. I can’t do social media so I’m telling you here. Thanks brotha stills being built today
I have a thermometer in the middle of my condensor...for me it is the best indicator for de complete proces!
It helps me perfectly to regulate power input and cooling water input.
...in combination with a top and kettle thermometer.
Excellent! Try a variable power supply on your air pot sometime. The condenser is probably overkill and even though the cooling fan is slowed with less input power it will still work perfectly along with the lower boiler temp. Using that you can do a strip and a spirit run with positive results. (hypothetically of course)
For a strip run it's needed more power, not less. For a Spirit run the airstill seems ok
@@jesse.marques Yes, exactly my point. Wide open for stripping, reduced power for a spirit run. The condenser can handle either even though the condenser fan is running slower because of the reduced power input. (spirit run) I have read some people have rewired the air stills so that the condenser fan runs at full speed and power and the heating element can be controlled with a power supply.
@@LP23D6 I have done exactly this, with one of the vevor 750w air stills, and it makes a huge difference. It's a completely different beast. I'd always recommend people stay away from the more expensive PID temp controlled units, buy the cheaper one and get an SCR. It will come in under the price of the temp controlled one, and infinitely more controllable. I have learned this lesson the more expensive way.
You can just plug the condenser fan into a different plug to run it all out while you adjust the boiler.
@@ffwast Yep. mine would take a different cord is all I would need.
Temp is one datapoint. On just about any still you want to discard anything below 70c or lower if at high altitude. The first decent ester starts coming off at around 70c and depending on how much you like butter you may want to discard some of that ethyl acetate. If you are going slow on your take off you can get a pretty clean distinction below ethyl acetate where stuff is mainly acetone and methanol and when the first ethyl acetate appears. Obviously with a pot still you do not get as clean of a break as with a reflux still. For a stripping run i starts slow then blast it and slow down again as the vapor abv gets low. I can discard that forerun that isn't even good for feints.
I learned a lot from this video thanks for doing it. I’m new and haven’t distilled anything yet. Still trying to learn about what I need to do and how to do it. I’ve learned a ton from your videos and I’m thinking I’m about ready to start dabbling in distilling. Thanks again I’ll keep watching for more information about the craft.
Jesse, somewhere back in my history I read that the optimum temp for distillation of alcohol was 176 F. That is supposed to be the temp at which alcohol vaporizes and thus would rise and go thru a condenser to cool back to alcohol.
Great Explanation!
I like to think the thermometers are Data Points as well, but not gospel. If all things are equal, they help to start to formulate a process flow.
If you can account for ambient barometric pressure, and pay attention to your phase diagrams, you can get your process down pretty precisely. Even if you're not chasing a consistent product, having the data points and the output is a good way to help make your decisions more informed.
Great video Jesse!!! I have these questions all the time when talking to people curious about distilling. Top job mate
Definitely keen for the reflux theory video if you haven't made it already!? Really intrigued as to how this all fits together. Ive been playing with a still spirits reflux column for a number of years and this video has answered a hunch if questions I've been thinking about, but also raised a few as well...
Thank you so much currently working my alcoengine as I type explains a lot of what of am seeing.
Thanks Jesse. I've had pots, reflux, 'super reflux' and home made stills since '08. I've been running the same dextrose and yeast for a long time too, all fermented in a temp controlled fridge at 22° for 7 days.
The temp of the element is the only thing I haven't played with!
Given what you've said, wouldn't it make sense to have a multi stage element to use the same still head to do fast stripping runs, drip, drip runs and super slow runs by changing the element output?
Great overview for a new comers to the craft and also a great refreshers curse for everyone else
I would LOVE to see a video on reflux and how it works. Your explanation on how the temps work was awesome. But reflux still puzzles me. Thank you!!!
This is the Class That
Jessie teaches
Thanks Boss
From Tennessee USA
Keep Smiling 🥲
My Friend 😎🥇
Looking forward to playing with the Air Still Pro should be interesting
I’m pretty sure the water and ethanol also physically interact. At least that’s what I remember from college. That’s why the azeotrope point exists; you can’t disentangle water and ethanol beyond that poor through evaporation. One just drags the other along.
Well, this a great vid! It's earned a place in my 'links' file that I share with those who know even less than me). You should be honored!! ;) The only thing I did not hear mentioned was the 'smearing' that can happen in the vapor if the boil is too vigorous, which, I think is 'the why' the drip rate is so important.
I, here in the states, have a Air Still Pro on order. Do a bunch on this new still head for my older pots, please.
Jesse, you have done a fine job explaining a very complex topic. I have recently become interested in how distillate temperature coming off the condenser affects flavor, thanks to Alan Bishop whom you recently interviewed on your podcast. Basically he argues that hotter distillate coming off the still will create harsher flavors. I have always run my output stream (drip) pretty slowly because I use an air condenser that is easily overpowered. My condenser output temperature is about the same as ambient. Do any of you Chasers have an opinion about this?
The only other thing I have say about your topic is that even a pot still can run at a steady (but slowly, inevitably rising) temperature when you are in hearts. This, I do pay attention to vapor temperature and adjust my heat input to find this rough “balance” point. Cheers!
That's a perfect explanation!! I wish i knew this when i got started...what's your opinion about the water temperature you cool with? I use icewater, but do you think that makes a difference compared with tapwater?
I for one would really appreciate the reflux still continuation video you mentioned.
Very good information that everyone new to the craft should watch.
Maybe not the best place for a question, but have you ever noticed after drinking your own products, particularly “bourbon”, that when you go back and sample some commercial products you get a “headsy” nose off the commercial product? Not sure if it’s the fact that the commercial product has more complexity from years of aging in a barrel, or if it’s because drinking local product with tighter cuts is actually better? Or I’m just getting used to a less complex product. Thoughts?
Awesome video, Jesse. Thank you. Please do the video on reflux I'm very interested.
Exceptional video, especially for those starting out. You’ve put a lot of thought into it. Perhaps a great follow up could be flavor of spirit vs water temperature going into the condenser. Let’s not forget, behind every good man….. 😂😂😂
Very informative, good job
Good job! Knowing how one's still operates is critical and all stills react differently. I control temperature using a PID temp controller which can maintain pot temp to within a couple of degrees, but as the run progresses the pot temperature must be raised since it takes more thermal energy to break the remaining alcohol free of the other liquids in the pot. The key is to observe the out flow rate vs temperature and adjust pot temperature as needed to keep the out flow pretty much constant throughout the run. Experience teaches you how best to make temperature changes and that experience comes with trial and error.
Agreed, I wish I knew this 3 years ago when I first started playing with distilling,
Good on mate,
Just a bit late!!
Hehe nah all in time, we all learn best out of our own experiences,
Thanks and ciao ciao
My 750W air still basically runs solid on does not pass vapor when distilling water. Turned down a little below 100C it does not pass spirits vapor either. Its heat exchanger might be larger than this one.
You'd be surprised how much of a difference buggering off the temp control does. I bypassed it and use an SCR to control power. Knocked down the power from 750w to 250ish. My output ABV went from around 60% up to around 75%, with a much cleaner taste. 12% ABV sugar wash. I also tuck a copper scrubby up in the lid for a little reflux. More volume at the end of a run as well. Sure, it took a bit longer for the run but worth it. Also, run the condenser fan on it's own circuit, so it's always running. I don't do this anymore as I move to a t500, but I still run it this way when I'm making gin.
Boiling temperature of a mix will depend on the relative concentration....you cannot control temperature....you can only control heat input...temperature at boil tells you what the mix concentration is...
I only use column temp on a stripping run I know 207 degrees f is around 15% abv on spirit run I use smell and taste great video Jesse
Hello. Thanks for great video :) I heard that adding salt to mash before distilling makes high ABV for potstills. Is it true? Is it really helps by increasing boil temp of water and make ethenol seperation easier? If it helps what about quality of spirit? Should I or we try it :)?
Interesting. Never heard of this before, and would love to see what he might say about this.
Excellent video. What program are you using on the induction cooker? I have the 4937/72 model, took me a while to figure out how to stop it ramping up in temp, found manual mode on hot pot although yours didn't appear to do the stop start burst. Please and thank you. I thought the learning curve on beer was tough. LOL
Hey dude, I was wondering if you could do a clip about how finings actually work in a sugar wash? Or if you have touched on this already could you direct me to the video please? Really gaining heaps of knowledge from your channel mate, Kia Ora from Htown!
How's it mate.
Finnings work by clumping all the little parts together. Literally sticking the tiny stuff floating around together into larger clumps. They are to small to drop out of suspension by themselves. But clumped together they will fall to the bottom.
If your running a sugar wash with heaps of nutrient additives and yeast like turbo etc it can be worth it. It's essentially keeping the sketchy stuff out of the still so cuts down on off flavors.
If however your running a recipe that's designed to be clean from the start you done really need it. It's just going to add a extra expense and more effort.
Chur
@@StillIt Got it! Thanks dude, just what I needed. Keep it up.
FANTASTIC video my friend! thank you for all that you do!
This is so random but the boiling temp could also affect flavor profiles if your up at say 13000 feet in elevation the boiling point in F drops 25 degrees. So you would be able to heat the mash to a lower point and get totally different flavors that are less altered from the heat! 😁
Yes but that isn't necessarily a good things. At higher temp and acidity you get more ester formation. Esters greatly impact the flavor. So at lower temp you get less esters. It is all a balance.
@@lrmackmcbride7498 ok that makes sense 👌
In my younger years i used a 2" reflux still. We only used sugar mash with abv around 15-17 % . I remember the rule was drip-drip and no stream..It took for ever but the abv was high. My question is..If u have 4" colomn will you then be able to increase the output to a nice steady stream and still keep the high abv? Cheers from Norway 🥶
Great video! Now, where can I get a reflux attachment for my air still?
I think newbies using a PID controller often don't get it that setting the PID at a certain fixed temperature for the entire run is wrong. As you noted, the pot temperature will rise as the ABV decreases over the course of the run. With this fact in mind, the PID temperature will need to be increased periodically. When to make the change is easy to determine by simply watching the output. When the output drops off is a clear sign the PID temperature needs to be increased. Where the PID shines is in keeping the temperature steady until there is a need to change it. This the PID can do far better than can be done manually since the PID "learns" and can anticipate more precisely just how much to change the temperature without over doing it.
+1 on the reflux theory video. I reduce the power on my T500 column and I need to increase the temp of the condensate water by 10C (or more). I think I know why. Would love to see a video from you confirming our denying my theory.
Very interesting video. Question, does adding copper mesh to your column help with abv?
A quick question, given that a certain percentage alcohol boils at a certain temperature, does this equate to the temperature at the top of the vapour path equals the percentage of alcohol coming off the spout?
Thanks for great videos!
I'm new to this too, and proper temperature is oddly hard to find, ty !
I trust you very much is medical alcohol ethanol drinkable after instillation
Thanks for the info, I agree that temperature is kind of a senseless factor but how about cap size and shape. Wonder if you change the size of your cap/column how will that affect a run time and efficiency?
After putting a AC voltage control on my T500 & turned it down no wash gets past now .Stock is to hot.
Thanks very much for all the amazing info. Quick question, is there an ABV min in the pot for a sacrificial run on a new still?
Great video. As I have a gold fish brain and can't watch all your videos again and again I dream you will write a thick book for the layman about all you know about this craft, all kinds of stills, all topics regarding theory, practice, various mashes, buying equipment, making equipment, gadgets, procedures, pre- and post- work, recipes, cutting, power management etc etc etc... I sign up to buy the first copy out of the press.
Really informative, thanks. Is there a recommended amount of mash you want to have in your still when you start a run, or is it just a question of filling the pot to capacity?
Where in am i the alpine reagin of NSW Australia water boils at 97c
Hi everyone, looking at the turbo 500 kit, as recommended to me. My problem is space is at a premium here. Better get to my question,,, what is the overall height of the turbo 500 kit??? Cheers...
Is it possible to ferment and distill milk or liquid whey after adding lactase enzyme? 🤔
Still it, If you make the same mash and run it on the same still every time. Can you make cuts based on about of liquid coming out of the still compared to what goes in the pot?
I am looking for tips on making watermellon shine. Any advice?
Firt of all great video and thanks for all you do.
I have a question for you. Is it possible to have water that's too cold? When I ran my reflux the head struggled to get past 110C so i adjusted the flow to be lower and that's when it really started to run.
+1 for the reflux video. Love the way you explained that
You Beauti!
That was very helpful and educational.
Love your work Jessie!