If you would like to buy a T-Shirt then please click this link (thanks for your support) If you would like to look at my T-Shirts then please look here: teespring.com/stores/my-retro-watches If you would like to purchase any tools & equipment then please see my Amazon affiliate page here: Link: Link: myretrowatches.com/tool-sale-links/ I do earn a small commission from any sales. Thank you.
Wow! I do remember you putting that in correctly! Amazing how tiny things like this are amplified when in small scale! Thanks for this video on finding the issue!
Apologies for the poor sound quality. As this video was very impromptu I did not use my lapel microphone (which I am currently having issues with anyway - distortion... I am no sound expert...)
I knew you would fix the issue so not surprised one bit and just goes to show how precise you have to be when rebuilding these movements. Very well done.
Good stuff Mike. These machines are amazing things, how they can be so precise and for 1970s 40+ yo movement, amazing...yet if one small part not installed quite correctly or a tiny piece of foreign matter can cause problems. All the more rewarding when you get it working properly.
Result! Great stuff and certainly worth stripping to get the hairs regardless though the shock spring must have been annoying. Thumbs up for bogwood part 2 also, lol.
No more excuses, Mike! And no more "hobby" in your language. You are become a real watchmaker!!! I told you in a previous vid - "maybe there's an issue with the shock absorbers" anyway... It's alive, Mike, it's alive!!! Jesus i almost get heart attack while looking this vid, and it's alive!!! I'm not sure how many of your subscribers consider these things as a "live" organism, but for sure I really did. Bow to the engineering genius, and bow to you personally, Mike!!! My kind regards! Anton Bondoff
I would not go that far, still a rank amatuer with so much to learn. Yes you said it was the jewels and I could not let on in the comments of the last video as it would have spoilt this one as I had at that point filmed this video... Seikos engineering is fantastic.
Good result Mike. I agree the inside of the original barrel and cover were a bit hacked up in my opinion. Good choice to change it. I think with a brand new mainspring your numbers would improve even more but I know sourcing a new mainspring is not always possible.
Mike, great catch! I seem to remember from the first video that you turned the jewel lock over a couple of times because it didn't appear "flat". Perhaps that's what caused it to slip out. Great results and thanks for your videos.
Waw stuning results! I wish I could get those readings, but I never get close to that. I'm working on a 6119 and having very poor readings right now. I've just cleaned the incabloc jewels but still poor amplitude and dirt lines on the timegrapher. I don't mind cleaning everything again. except for the incablocs, I can't sleep when I now I'll have to take them apart, they're so tiny!
Jewel settings take a bit to get used to handling and only practice will get you there. Likewise with improving amplitude, a good cleaning regime pays dividends in the end.
The first one you took, the hair that is looked to be the same colour as the one I spotted yesterday which I commented for :) A lovely piece now and worth the extra effort imho :)
Great video, don't worry about the sound, it is fine. Those shock springs always causing trouble 😂, but finally it's running like a champion and can not wait to see it back in one piece. By the way, the patience you have handling those shock springs is impressive, a while back ago i had to service a couple citizen 8110, and i don't know why the shock springs for the escape wheel tended to move out of place and causing the movement to stop. Almost drive me mad and I kinda hate them since then 🤔😂.
diashocks are not as bad as the diafix jewels you see in the 7### Seikos. I have just got used to handling them with the tweezers, its all just about practice to find your feel to not squeeze the tweezers too hard that these things fly away.
Thrilled for you Mike! , great detective work!. Probably a combination of the barrel and that flyin spring!!!. You don't ever need to defend your self!, i have dog hairs all over the place!🐕., i have to use the blower all the time. Really enjoyed that video👍, worth waiting for. Adrian.
Great video, thank you. One question. I have a microscope with X20 magnification which is great for inspecting jewels. What magnification X should I look for in the eyepieces to be able to assemble the movement comfortably as you do? Thank you.
I'm so happy that you found it ! ... I once (when I was still new to the hobby) took apart a seiko 7005 and the dia shock flew away into the carpet when I removed it oh boy had I a great time looking for it 😂 anyway really nice video very detailed !! Have a great day! PS I'm using your trick for opening twist caps for batteries with a 25p coin now really handy trick !
Milton Allen I am so tempted to take it apart and fit the other barrel again but as it’s running sweetly I think it’s best left alone or I will be on it for hours again... the jewel I did in the video was the diashock on the main plate and not the balance . Thanks for watching
Hello and firstly thanks for your video. As a man with failing eye site I was very interested in the advantages you mentioned of using a microscope. Can i ask which one you use. Many of the ones I have seen have a very short focal length and so get in the way of my working. Any advice thankfully accepted.
I use an AM Scope 306, you can find them on my tool page, the one to go for really is the boom arm version if you want to do more work other than oil and inspect like I do. I bought the lesser version and now wished I had the boom arm. See my page here and scroll down until you see the microscopes . Thanks myretrowatches.com/tool-sale-links/
Hi Mike, another interesting video on my favorite movement. Have done a bunch of these and 7002, but have yet to find a satisfactory holder . Where did you get the "Pioneer" one in the video? The Bergeon style does not hold securely and no make a true size for these old movements. Found one from a place in US that fits nicely but not a clamp type. I appreciate any leads you can share on the one you use.
@@DrJac999 the pioneer is vintage so just eBay. The 4040 Bergeon ones just stop trying to clamp on the top step. I found having them on the bottom works the best.
@@MyRetroWatches Thanks, Mike, Always afraid of hitting the balance when working on dial side. Its just awkward. The Pioneer held the whole video--impressive, Best, Rich
great job Michael more long videos please they are super helpful I am learning a lot from them, thank you. I have a question, I got my self a Seiko to play with but I cant not open the back what ever I do looks like it's stuck for some reason do you have any idea that might help? thanks again you're videos are awesome
oh hi Blonfellow how are you doing, no it's a twist off back I have another one like it which opens just fine but this one is stuck I think somebody might have loctited it for some reason
They can get rusted up inside so the threads lock up. real pain to get off and I have now a special vintage case back opener fixture for this reason. Sometimes it helps to try to tighten first as this can break the seal so to speak.
I missed that hair too 🤨 and it’s more a fiber than a hair... btw, did you know that the escape mechanism was invented by the great Leonardo da Vinci himself!
@@MyRetroWatches mate. Really? Come on now. There's a fairly average sized piece of hair just above the watch you're working on? And you can see bits of hair all over the place that doesn't look like "work marks". I mean like, how do you think the hair you had to get out, ended up there in the first place....?
Human Menot ..... as I repeatedly say in all my videos , firstly I am just a hobbyist and secondly the camera is where my head is you the video gets a good angle for the viewer. The compromise is I can’t see everything clearly plus my eyes are not great. When working on pieces when not filming I am considerably closer to the action to pick up on hair , lint and other debris that are in the air. I frequently use dust covers to minimise this .
If you would like to buy a T-Shirt then please click this link (thanks for your support) If you would like to look at my T-Shirts then please look here: teespring.com/stores/my-retro-watches
If you would like to purchase any tools & equipment then please see my Amazon affiliate page here:
Link: Link: myretrowatches.com/tool-sale-links/ I do earn a small commission from any sales. Thank you.
Wow! I do remember you putting that in correctly! Amazing how tiny things like this are amplified when in small scale! Thanks for this video on finding the issue!
Apologies for the poor sound quality. As this video was very impromptu I did not use my lapel microphone (which I am currently having issues with anyway - distortion... I am no sound expert...)
I knew you would fix the issue so not surprised one bit and just goes to show how precise you have to be when rebuilding these movements.
Very well done.
JonTheComputerDoctor thanks for your vote of confidence Jon cheers
Great effort! I admire your passion for the hobby staying up late to shoot fantastic videos and get up early for work. Very inspiring!
Thank you. Appreciate your comment
Nice job and good result.
Great work, Mike. Nice seeing the troubleshooting steps you took and the solution.
Good stuff Mike. These machines are amazing things, how they can be so precise and for 1970s 40+ yo movement, amazing...yet if one small part not installed quite correctly or a tiny piece of foreign matter can cause problems. All the more rewarding when you get it working properly.
Thanks David
Your patience is inspiring buddy, loving these videos and the Seiko 👍👍👍
Michael Parker thank you so much . It’s a hobby where you need patience and persistence !
Looking forward to the case restoration.
Thanks Che
Result! Great stuff and certainly worth stripping to get the hairs regardless though the shock spring must have been annoying. Thumbs up for bogwood part 2 also, lol.
Incredible work! Very inspiring to see your whole process!
Thank you.
Great result Mike!
thanks max!
Very nice video, entertaining and informative. I tip my hat, many watchmakers wouldn't probably go half the way you have gone to find a fault...
Thank you so much.
I had every confidence you would sort it out. Beautiful readings!
Steve W thank you .
Well done, Mike. Congratulations.
I would have thrown it into a wall, your patience amazes me. I always enjoy your presentations
Thanks Jack. This hobby can be frustrating but you soon learn to rise above it and enjoy the problem solving just as much .
Thanks for your support
Pleasing result 👍 next owner should be Very pleased!.
S Baines thanks
Well done, happy is working so nicely.
No more excuses, Mike! And no more "hobby" in your language. You are become a real watchmaker!!! I told you in a previous vid - "maybe there's an issue with the shock absorbers" anyway... It's alive, Mike, it's alive!!! Jesus i almost get heart attack while looking this vid, and it's alive!!! I'm not sure how many of your subscribers consider these things as a "live" organism, but for sure I really did.
Bow to the engineering genius, and bow to you personally, Mike!!!
My kind regards!
Anton Bondoff
I would not go that far, still a rank amatuer with so much to learn. Yes you said it was the jewels and I could not let on in the comments of the last video as it would have spoilt this one as I had at that point filmed this video... Seikos engineering is fantastic.
Your pleasure it is a pure happiness ! It is good to hear :) Not so easy to talk to someone that is not really here ;)
Well done m8te !
Thank you for this comment. You are right, I always feel like I am talking to myself. Slowly getting better at it too which in a way is worrying.
Good result Mike. I agree the inside of the original barrel and cover were a bit hacked up in my opinion. Good choice to change it. I think with a brand new mainspring your numbers would improve even more but I know sourcing a new mainspring is not always possible.
agreed. This is still a donor mainsting and barrel but it looks less worn. A new spring certainly would not go a miss though.
That time laps segment was nice to see. Great job finding that fault.
Thanks
awesome work sheers thank you for video...
Well done , the hard work seems to have paid off , thanks for the video Shane uk 🇬🇧
shaneweightman cheers Shane
Bravo man you did it 👍👍👍✨
Mike, great catch! I seem to remember from the first video that you turned the jewel lock over a couple of times because it didn't appear "flat". Perhaps that's what caused it to slip out. Great results and thanks for your videos.
The one i did in the first video was the diashock on the mainplate not the balance. Thanks though.
Waw stuning results! I wish I could get those readings, but I never get close to that. I'm working on a 6119 and having very poor readings right now. I've just cleaned the incabloc jewels but still poor amplitude and dirt lines on the timegrapher. I don't mind cleaning everything again. except for the incablocs, I can't sleep when I now I'll have to take them apart, they're so tiny!
Jewel settings take a bit to get used to handling and only practice will get you there. Likewise with improving amplitude, a good cleaning regime pays dividends in the end.
The first one you took, the hair that is looked to be the same colour as the one I spotted yesterday which I commented for :) A lovely piece now and worth the extra effort imho :)
Great job
Great video, don't worry about the sound, it is fine.
Those shock springs always causing trouble 😂, but finally it's running like a champion and can not wait to see it back in one piece.
By the way, the patience you have handling those shock springs is impressive, a while back ago i had to service a couple citizen 8110, and i don't know why the shock springs for the escape wheel tended to move out of place and causing the movement to stop. Almost drive me mad and I kinda hate them since then 🤔😂.
diashocks are not as bad as the diafix jewels you see in the 7### Seikos. I have just got used to handling them with the tweezers, its all just about practice to find your feel to not squeeze the tweezers too hard that these things fly away.
Well done!!
Thrilled for you Mike! , great detective work!. Probably a combination of the barrel and that flyin spring!!!. You don't ever need to defend your self!, i have dog hairs all over the place!🐕., i have to use the blower all the time. Really enjoyed that video👍, worth waiting for. Adrian.
Thanks Adrian. always appreciated.
Great video, thank you. One question. I have a microscope with X20 magnification which is great for inspecting jewels. What magnification X should I look for in the eyepieces to be able to assemble the movement comfortably as you do? Thank you.
I use a visor or a loupe for all other work like assembly . Mainly 2.5x
Superb!
I'm so happy that you found it !
... I once (when I was still new to the hobby) took apart a seiko 7005 and the dia shock flew away into the carpet when I removed it oh boy had I a great time looking for it 😂 anyway really nice video very detailed !!
Have a great day!
PS I'm using your trick for opening twist caps for batteries with a 25p coin now really handy trick !
Thanks. I was relieved to see it running well again thats for certain.
Awesome job would still like to know if it was the barrel, cleaning or jewel clip. I was sure in the other video the clip was in place
Milton Allen I am so tempted to take it apart and fit the other barrel again but as it’s running sweetly I think it’s best left alone or I will be on it for hours again... the jewel I did in the video was the diashock on the main plate and not the balance .
Thanks for watching
@@MyRetroWatches definitely my philosophy, if it ain't broke don't fix it.
My 6309 beat error is 4.0 using a timegrapher app, how to fix it ?
Hello and firstly thanks for your video. As a man with failing eye site I was very interested in the advantages you mentioned of using a microscope. Can i ask which one you use. Many of the ones I have seen have a very short focal length and so get in the way of my working. Any advice thankfully accepted.
I use an AM Scope 306, you can find them on my tool page, the one to go for really is the boom arm version if you want to do more work other than oil and inspect like I do. I bought the lesser version and now wished I had the boom arm. See my page here and scroll down until you see the microscopes . Thanks myretrowatches.com/tool-sale-links/
@@MyRetroWatches thanks!
Hi Mike, another interesting video on my favorite movement. Have done a bunch of these and 7002, but have yet to find a satisfactory holder . Where did you get the "Pioneer" one in the video? The Bergeon style does not hold securely and no make a true size for these old movements. Found one from a place in US that fits nicely but not a clamp type.
I appreciate any leads you can share on the one you use.
@@DrJac999 the pioneer is vintage so just eBay. The 4040 Bergeon ones just stop trying to clamp on the top step. I found having them on the bottom works the best.
@@MyRetroWatches Thanks, Mike, Always afraid of hitting the balance when working on dial side. Its just awkward. The Pioneer held the whole video--impressive,
Best, Rich
Great result, hope you sleep better now;-)
Any idea where I could prob source a new mainspring for a 2234SU Vostok?
perhaps www.cousinsuk.com
Just had a look at my seiko, its got a 7s26-6000 movement. Are you familiar with this one?
nubbyMcnub the movement yes. I have done a full series on that movement you can see it here.
th-cam.com/play/PL1QqBaAlwtP42AAxTxfJ35VMTW2NneNTz.html
I very much enjoy watching your work. I find it relaxing. Keep it going!
gonshocks thank you so much !
Put back the old barrel to check if the amplitude changes.
Robert Wahlstedt this is definitely very tempting !
Can I ask what type of microscope you use?
its an AM Scope 306 , I must get around to reviewing it. this one amzn.to/2Eggpfb
great job Michael more long videos please they are super helpful I am learning a lot from them, thank you.
I have a question, I got my self a Seiko to play with but I cant not open the back what ever I do looks like it's stuck for some reason do you have any idea that might help?
thanks again you're videos are awesome
oh hi Blonfellow how are you doing, no it's a twist off back I have another one like it which opens just fine but this one is stuck I think somebody might have loctited it for some reason
@Doctor Watches N Clocks that's an awesome idea I'm doing it thanks alot
They can get rusted up inside so the threads lock up. real pain to get off and I have now a special vintage case back opener fixture for this reason. Sometimes it helps to try to tighten first as this can break the seal so to speak.
If you can not who can !👋🤗
Awesome .. Maybe when you ad the other parts it will be better with not so much gain
Finally!!
I missed that hair too 🤨 and it’s more a fiber than a hair... btw, did you know that the escape mechanism was invented by the great Leonardo da Vinci himself!
And in the last vid that clip had its 3 leafs correctly in 🤔
Great video, I was sure you were going to sort out the problem :-)
Ole Johan Pålsrud cheers Ole
Get some hounds to catch that hare :)
Allwright, you solved it! 👏
Blooming Rolex timing
Minute 8:22 you can see a lint on one of the teeth of the wheel
yes. fortunately this was on disassembly and I re-cleaned all the parts.
LOL he's looking for a piece of hair in a watch, on a table that is clearly filthy with bits of hair all over the place lmaooooo
What sort of comment is that? My mat is cleaned every day , it’s marked through lots of use. Clearly your work area is sterile
@Doctor Watches N Clockslol oh cheers. You're welcome lol
@@MyRetroWatches mate. Really? Come on now. There's a fairly average sized piece of hair just above the watch you're working on? And you can see bits of hair all over the place that doesn't look like "work marks". I mean like, how do you think the hair you had to get out, ended up there in the first place....?
Human Menot ..... as I repeatedly say in all my videos , firstly I am just a hobbyist and secondly the camera is where my head is you the video gets a good angle for the viewer. The compromise is I can’t see everything clearly plus my eyes are not great.
When working on pieces when not filming I am considerably closer to the action to pick up on hair , lint and other debris that are in the air. I frequently use dust covers to minimise this .
@@MyRetroWatches Yeah but you are repeatedly watching the footage whilst editing? How can you not see all the dirt? Maybe you need better glasses?