Thanks Jason. When I 1st started watching I thought my GW712 was different when I saw the individual valves and I nearly switched off. But 10 minutes in I saw that they pull out of the main body. I've swapped cold for hot to get me out of trouble until a new one I've just ordered arrives. My problem was that the cold valve didn't turn off when it reached the correct level. By blowing air through the inlet valves, I concluded the cold was stuck open.
I have been filling the washing machine up with the garden hose for the past 3-4 months. I had checked filters but water is only trickling into the machine. Now I am about to order the inlet valves and hopefully that will solve my problem. Thankyou for a good and informative instructional video.
Very best of luck with the changeover. Fingers crossed it will get your machine back up and running and you can get back to just watering the garden. Cheers.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I was able to repair my F&P GWL11 in 25 minutes after watching. I had already ordered a new washing machine when I found this video. Thanks again for taking the time to make and post the video.
Nice job, simple step by step easy to understand. Saves me having to call someone to come have a look see and charge an arm and a leg to do something I could do myself, cheers mate.
Glad it was of some help Alison. Hoping to load some more videos from the work I have had to do on my wife's VW Tiguan, I just have to edit out the swearing!! Take care, Stay safe.
Great video - mines done the same - slightly different model but I'm sure it will be a very similar sequence of advents - thanks for the time to create the video - much appreciated.
thank you so much brother! i didn’t order the part yet but i just took it all apart with you and now i’m gonna get it ! wasn’t sure if i’d be able to do it but now i know i can thank you brutha Peace !
Thought i'd list the product codes for machines that use these valves. These product codes will have 92 for NZ or 93 for AU, but i'll list them as NZ. Series 11 MW511-92148 GW511-92149 GW611-92150 GW711-92151 Series 12 MW511-92148 GW512-92170 GW612-92172 GW712-92173 IW models IW511-92152 IW711-92153 IW811-92154 IW models -Series 12 IW512-92177 IW712-92178 IW812-92179 To look for your product code number, it'll be on the panel or the cabinet, or both. Series 11 will have the product code label on the cabinet. Hope this helps everyone. I have not listed every machine, but it'll give you an idea. Finding your product code number will also tell you if you search it online and it'll tell you other parts that come under that. I service these and it's really easy to get the product code number.
Excellent video. My Mrs. Is so attached to her FP washing machine that she does not want to have it replaced. The problem is that water is dripping inside from the fill nozzle. Which part/parts do replacement and where do I order from? Your guidance will be appreciated.
Hi Navigator5. I must stress that I am not a plumber or a repair technician. I just love doing this stuff myself, as long as it doesn't require electrical or plumbing connections. For your specific situation, I would be pulling the top control panel up so I could see the area where the inlet valves and tub fill tubes are and then run the machine to see if there are obvious leaks. I would turn the machine and water taps off to remove the instrument panel and then just turn them on for the test, and then off again. Be sure to stay well clear of any electrical items while looking for possible causes around the inlet valves. If you are saying that water is constantly dripping inside the tub, then I would assume one of the valves is failing to close properly. If it is dripping when the fill cycle is on (when it should be flowing quickly), then I would suggest one or both of the valves are failing to open properly. This could be due to a faulty valve or faulty circuit board or wiring not providing power to one or more of the valves. The power to the valve can be tested with a multimeter, but I would only do this if you have experience, have plenty of safety precautions and with someone else around in case things go pear-shaped. I actually took both valves out and tested them using a 12v battery to see if they clicked open and closed. Given the valves were a relatively nominal cost, I just replaced both of them on the assumption that if one had gone, the other one was probably not far behind. I know I have posted somewhere in these comments, the place where I bought my replacement valves. Just make sure you google and get the correct part number for your machine. Prices also vary wildly across supplier, so once you have the correct part number, shop around. I will post another reply once I find the supplier I used. Cheers.
This has been copied (and typing corrected!) From a previous reply. My best advice is to get the product code number of your washing machine from the rear of your machine (it is on the label) and use that product code number to search for 'inlet valve' on the supplier's website. I got mine from www.onlineappliancespares.com.au. The hot and cold were different prices, but the two of them came to about AUD95 in total. You must have your 5 (or 6) digit product code number or your washing machine to ensure you get the correct part. My washing machine product code number was 93172 (which is different from the model of the washing machine which was a GW612). In fact there are multiple product code numbers for each model number so it is important to get this number before searching. The product code number should be on the label on the back of the machine. Once you have the product code for your washing machine, you can look up the product codes for the parts needed for your machine.
Thanks for this video. I went through this, only to find after fixing the water inlet valves that now water is leaking into the machine around the thermistor sensor seal. Any tips on getting that water tight?
Sorry KA72! I do not have direct experience in that area. Wishing you all the best with that fix. I assume you can get a replacement seal if that is the problem. Take care. Jason
Good video. It appears that there is no need to remove the plastic base in order to replace these valves. Simply disconnect water supply lines, remove the back mounting flange, disconnect the wiring, and pull out the old valves. Then install new valves and button it up.
Nicely done. I have the same machine but it is overfilling all the time on every setting. I removed the small hose which connects from the tub to the water sensor unit and checked it out, then put it back so it's nice and tight, but the problem is still there. Have you got any other video showing how to fix this issue? THANK YOU
Sorry Dave. Time has passed and I missed this message. I am guessing that during COVID isolation you have managed to fix this problem. Unfortunately I do not have any other videos relating to the overfilling. The only thing I can thing of is whether the sensor needs replacing. You can remove it and test it with a multimeter to see if it is completing a circuit, but I do not have any details on that. I had a similar issue with my dishwasher overfilling; but in that case, it turned out to be the inlet valve again, not properly closing when the sensor told it to. I hope you have managed to fix the problem. Stay safe. Jason
Also what i've experienced too is make sure there is no water under the motor controller as water can make it's way to the inside and will pop and then you'll have to get a new board, because your one has a thermistor make sure its pushed all the way in so when you have to repair it again just make sure the thermistor is pushed in.
Thank you for the video Jason. It was very helpful. I have a Fisher and Paykel GW712. My hoter water valve is not working. But, how do I find the part number for that? I looked every where but could not figure it out. I will really appreciate if you can help me. Than kyou.
My best advice is to get the product code number of your washing nachine from the rear of your machine (it is on the label) and use that product code number to search for 'inlet valve' on the suppliers website. I got mine from www.onlineappliancespares.com.au. The hot and cold were different prices, but the two of them came to about AUD95 in total. You must have your 5 (or 6) digit product code number or your wadhing machine to ensure you get the correct part. My product code number was 93172 (which is different from the model of washing machine which was a GW612). In fact there are multiple product code numbers for each model number so it is important to get this number before searching. The product code number should be on the label on the back of the machine.
After i found my cold water inlet valve was faulty i swapped the hot and cold water pipes and changed the hot and cold power terminals then ran the machine on cold water setting . Lol back working in 5 minutes
One option could be is to replace these valves with ones off a Whirlpool or GE brand. FP quality is simply outrageously poor. No washing machine should ever have simple problems like this. Older American and Korean made machines simple don't.
My best advice is to get the product code number of your washing machine from the rear of your machine (it is on the label) and use that product code number to search for 'inlet valve' on the suppliers website. I got mine from www.onlineappliancespares.com.au. The hot and cold were different prices, but the two of them came to about AUD95 in total. You must have your 5 (or 6) digit product code number for your washing machine to ensure you get the correct part. My washing machine's product code number (from the label on the back of the washing machine) was 93172 (which is different from the model of washing machine which was a GW612). In fact there are multiple product code numbers for each model number so it is important to get this number before searching. The product code number should be on the label on the back of the machine. Best of luck and stay safe.
Sorry for the late reply. I got them from www.onlineappliancespares.com.au. The hot and cold were different prices, but the two of them came to about AUD95 in total. You must have your 5 (or 6) digit product code number to ensure you get the correct part. My product code number was 93172 (which is different from the model of washing machine which was a GW612). In fact there are multiple product code numbers for each model number. The product code number should be in the label on the back of the machine.
I am pretty sure I mentioned in the video. But you need to get the exact model number from the back of the machine because there are different valves for the same model of machine, particularly when the machines have gone to different countries. I simply got exact model number from the back of the machine and included that in my google search for Fisher and Pykel inlet valve. I think I got my parts from either appliancesonline.com.au or bigwarehouse.com.au. Probably the latter. Apols for late reply. Good luck. Cheers.
Use the Product Code number from the back of the machine to ensure the part is compatible with your machine because the same model of machine appears to use different valves in different regions. So use the Product Code in your search. REMEMBER, there are different valves for the hot and cold. I think I used either bigwarehouse.com.au or appliancesonline. Most likely bigwarehouse.com.au
The old hot valve is long gone now. But if you have a look through the video and comments, there is information on where you can buy one. And they are not that expensive. Mine went with the machine when I passed it on to someone else. Good luck. Stay safe.
These are the worst washers ever designed. Sell yours or replace it. I've literally changed every part on mine two times in 5 years. My parents had an old Kenmore that lasted 30+ years and this FP can't even last 10. Too many problems. Too expensive a headache. Very poor design. Don't ever buy and get rid of yours asap. Having to replace both solenoids twice in 1 year is a really bad quality. Not worth the headache and lost time! Money and time pit. Glad Lowe's dumped this brand and stopped selling them all over the USA.
Thanks Jason. When I 1st started watching I thought my GW712 was different when I saw the individual valves and I nearly switched off. But 10 minutes in I saw that they pull out of the main body. I've swapped cold for hot to get me out of trouble until a new one I've just ordered arrives. My problem was that the cold valve didn't turn off when it reached the correct level. By blowing air through the inlet valves, I concluded the cold was stuck open.
Thanks a million Jason , so easy , took me 30 minutes, I owe you a drink - beer or red, think I will have a beer now Cheers from Australia
Cheers. Also from Aus. :)
I have been filling the washing machine up with the garden hose for the past 3-4 months. I had checked filters but water is only trickling into the machine. Now I am about to order the inlet valves and hopefully that will solve my problem. Thankyou for a good and informative instructional video.
Very best of luck with the changeover. Fingers crossed it will get your machine back up and running and you can get back to just watering the garden. Cheers.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I was able to repair my F&P GWL11 in 25 minutes after watching. I had already ordered a new washing machine when I found this video. Thanks again for taking the time to make and post the video.
Thank you Jason. As one of the other commenters said, after seeing your video, my installation went very quickly.
Very pleased to hear everything went well. Stay safe and all the best. Jason
Great video. After watching your video it only me about 15 minutes to change valves. Thanks
Nice job, simple step by step easy to understand. Saves me having to call someone to come have a look see and charge an arm and a leg to do something I could do myself, cheers mate.
Jovan3167 No worries. Hope everything went well. Cheers.
Helpful - many thanks Jason.
Great video, thanks. Easy to follow along.
Glad it was of some help Alison. Hoping to load some more videos from the work I have had to do on my wife's VW Tiguan, I just have to edit out the swearing!! Take care, Stay safe.
Thank you, changed the inlet on my GWL11 because of your video
Great video - mines done the same - slightly different model but I'm sure it will be a very similar sequence of advents - thanks for the time to create the video - much appreciated.
thank you so much brother! i didn’t order the part yet but i just took it all apart with you and now i’m gonna get it ! wasn’t sure if i’d be able to do it but now i know i can thank you brutha Peace !
Thanks Jason. Nice and slow reminding me of all double checks to get it right. Can hopefully do mine now :-).
Thought i'd list the product codes for machines that use these valves. These product codes will have 92 for NZ or 93 for AU, but i'll list them as NZ.
Series 11
MW511-92148
GW511-92149
GW611-92150
GW711-92151
Series 12
MW511-92148
GW512-92170
GW612-92172
GW712-92173
IW models
IW511-92152
IW711-92153
IW811-92154
IW models -Series 12
IW512-92177
IW712-92178
IW812-92179
To look for your product code number, it'll be on the panel or the cabinet, or both. Series 11 will have the product code label on the cabinet. Hope this helps everyone. I have not listed every machine, but it'll give you an idea. Finding your product code number will also tell you if you search it online and it'll tell you other parts that come under that. I service these and it's really easy to get the product code number.
Excellent video. My Mrs. Is so attached to her FP washing machine that she does not want to have it replaced. The problem is that water is dripping inside from the fill nozzle. Which part/parts do replacement and where do I order from?
Your guidance will be appreciated.
Hi Navigator5. I must stress that I am not a plumber or a repair technician. I just love doing this stuff myself, as long as it doesn't require electrical or plumbing connections. For your specific situation, I would be pulling the top control panel up so I could see the area where the inlet valves and tub fill tubes are and then run the machine to see if there are obvious leaks. I would turn the machine and water taps off to remove the instrument panel and then just turn them on for the test, and then off again. Be sure to stay well clear of any electrical items while looking for possible causes around the inlet valves. If you are saying that water is constantly dripping inside the tub, then I would assume one of the valves is failing to close properly. If it is dripping when the fill cycle is on (when it should be flowing quickly), then I would suggest one or both of the valves are failing to open properly. This could be due to a faulty valve or faulty circuit board or wiring not providing power to one or more of the valves. The power to the valve can be tested with a multimeter, but I would only do this if you have experience, have plenty of safety precautions and with someone else around in case things go pear-shaped. I actually took both valves out and tested them using a 12v battery to see if they clicked open and closed. Given the valves were a relatively nominal cost, I just replaced both of them on the assumption that if one had gone, the other one was probably not far behind. I know I have posted somewhere in these comments, the place where I bought my replacement valves. Just make sure you google and get the correct part number for your machine. Prices also vary wildly across supplier, so once you have the correct part number, shop around. I will post another reply once I find the supplier I used. Cheers.
This has been copied (and typing corrected!) From a previous reply.
My best advice is to get the product code number of your washing machine from the rear of your machine (it is on the label) and use that product code number to search for 'inlet valve' on the supplier's website. I got mine from www.onlineappliancespares.com.au. The hot and cold were different prices, but the two of them came to about AUD95 in total. You must have your 5 (or 6) digit product code number or your washing machine to ensure you get the correct part. My washing machine product code number was 93172 (which is different from the model of the washing machine which was a GW612). In fact there are multiple product code numbers for each model number so it is important to get this number before searching.
The product code number should be on the label on the back of the machine. Once you have the product code for your washing machine, you can look up the product codes for the parts needed for your machine.
Very detailed explanation. Thank you
Thanks for this video. I went through this, only to find after fixing the water inlet valves that now water is leaking into the machine around the thermistor sensor seal. Any tips on getting that water tight?
Sorry KA72! I do not have direct experience in that area. Wishing you all the best with that fix. I assume you can get a replacement seal if that is the problem. Take care. Jason
Good video. It appears that there is no need to remove the plastic base in order to replace these valves. Simply disconnect water supply lines, remove the back mounting flange, disconnect the wiring, and pull out the old valves. Then install new valves and button it up.
Nicely done. I have the same machine but it is overfilling all the time on every setting. I removed the small hose which connects from the tub to the water sensor unit and checked it out, then put it back so it's nice and tight, but the problem is still there. Have you got any other video showing how to fix this issue? THANK YOU
Sorry Dave. Time has passed and I missed this message. I am guessing that during COVID isolation you have managed to fix this problem. Unfortunately I do not have any other videos relating to the overfilling. The only thing I can thing of is whether the sensor needs replacing. You can remove it and test it with a multimeter to see if it is completing a circuit, but I do not have any details on that. I had a similar issue with my dishwasher overfilling; but in that case, it turned out to be the inlet valve again, not properly closing when the sensor told it to. I hope you have managed to fix the problem. Stay safe. Jason
Thanks for the video. It was a great help.
Also what i've experienced too is make sure there is no water under the motor controller as water can make it's way to the inside and will pop and then you'll have to get a new board, because your one has a thermistor make sure its pushed all the way in so when you have to repair it again just make sure the thermistor is pushed in.
Thank you for the video Jason. It was very helpful. I have a Fisher and Paykel GW712. My hoter water valve is not working. But, how do I find the part number for that? I looked every where but could not figure it out. I will really appreciate if you can help me. Than kyou.
My best advice is to get the product code number of your washing nachine from the rear of your machine (it is on the label) and use that product code number to search for 'inlet valve' on the suppliers website. I got mine from www.onlineappliancespares.com.au. The hot and cold were different prices, but the two of them came to about AUD95 in total. You must have your 5 (or 6) digit product code number or your wadhing machine to ensure you get the correct part. My product code number was 93172 (which is different from the model of washing machine which was a GW612). In fact there are multiple product code numbers for each model number so it is important to get this number before searching.
The product code number should be on the label on the back of the machine.
After i found my cold water inlet valve was faulty i swapped the hot and cold water pipes and changed the hot and cold power terminals then ran the machine on cold water setting . Lol back working in 5 minutes
Aaron Cunneen Nice thinking. And environmentally friendly.😊
Aaron Cunneen I done the same about 3 months ago but it still shat itself last week, pay to get a backup ready lol
One option could be is to replace these valves with ones off a Whirlpool or GE brand. FP quality is simply outrageously poor. No washing machine should ever have simple problems like this. Older American and Korean made machines simple don't.
Some F and P machines have a service manual on line. Just search for one.
Hi Jason. I am wondering if where you got the parts and how much?
My best advice is to get the product code number of your washing machine from the rear of your machine (it is on the label) and use that product code number to search for 'inlet valve' on the suppliers website. I got mine from www.onlineappliancespares.com.au. The hot and cold were different prices, but the two of them came to about AUD95 in total. You must have your 5 (or 6) digit product code number for your washing machine to ensure you get the correct part. My washing machine's product code number (from the label on the back of the washing machine) was 93172 (which is different from the model of washing machine which was a GW612). In fact there are multiple product code numbers for each model number so it is important to get this number before searching.
The product code number should be on the label on the back of the machine. Best of luck and stay safe.
Where did you get your new valves from and how much were there from memory mate?
Sorry for the late reply. I got them from www.onlineappliancespares.com.au. The hot and cold were different prices, but the two of them came to about AUD95 in total. You must have your 5 (or 6) digit product code number to ensure you get the correct part. My product code number was 93172 (which is different from the model of washing machine which was a GW612). In fact there are multiple product code numbers for each model number.
The product code number should be in the label on the back of the machine.
I have a GWL11 and this video was spot on for this repair. I found the valve I needed on Amazon for $59.00 US
Is this the thermistor replacement procedure
No Joe. Not the thermistor replacement. Only the inlet water valve replacement. Good luck with your repair. Cheers.
put in hot water one just as shown with no problem--had put cold on in a few years back but after putting tis one in found water under control panel.
how do i know what part to order? where can i find the numbers? where can i order them?
I am pretty sure I mentioned in the video. But you need to get the exact model number from the back of the machine because there are different valves for the same model of machine, particularly when the machines have gone to different countries. I simply got exact model number from the back of the machine and included that in my google search for Fisher and Pykel inlet valve. I think I got my parts from either appliancesonline.com.au or bigwarehouse.com.au. Probably the latter. Apols for late reply. Good luck. Cheers.
Just look at some of my other replies. It is the Product Code number that you want to get from the back of your machine. :)
Use the Product Code number from the back of the machine to ensure the part is compatible with your machine because the same model of machine appears to use different valves in different regions. So use the Product Code in your search. REMEMBER, there are different valves for the hot and cold. I think I used either bigwarehouse.com.au or appliancesonline. Most likely bigwarehouse.com.au
tip: unplug machine when not in use to avoid the machine shuffling out the door.
Great Vid albeit Vertical Video....
I need a hot solenoid. send me the good one you replaced
The old hot valve is long gone now. But if you have a look through the video and comments, there is information on where you can buy one. And they are not that expensive. Mine went with the machine when I passed it on to someone else. Good luck. Stay safe.
Another failure of the machine to complete a spin cycle is a faulty lid lock switch.
These are the worst washers ever designed. Sell yours or replace it. I've literally changed every part on mine two times in 5 years. My parents had an old Kenmore that lasted 30+ years and this FP can't even last 10. Too many problems. Too expensive a headache. Very poor design. Don't ever buy and get rid of yours asap. Having to replace both solenoids twice in 1 year is a really bad quality. Not worth the headache and lost time! Money and time pit. Glad Lowe's dumped this brand and stopped selling them all over the USA.