Just did one of my RBA's and this works! I used a caulk tip and a vice and drilled all the way through, doing this means that you will have a rough edge on the exit hole, a little sand paper smoothed it out.
I wish I did this drill method earlier ! ejuice needs room to flow & now it does like it should, my subtank mni is working so good now its even more amazing, no worries of a dry hit again ! no fussing with wick as much either ! Thanks for the video rhinsen ! this is an awesome fix, vape on !
Just to let anyone who's drilling anything ,if you find yourself pressing on the drill to make a hole your bit is eather Not Sharp enough or your using the wrong type bit ie wood bit on metal. It's all good idea to support it the way you did and stabilize it in a small table type vise. Start slow and use a light oil on metal just remember to clean it off with a degreaser to remove any oil that maybe left on the metal. If you have or you should get a small drill punch to start or Mark the place on the unit to be drilled.
viktorvaughnisnike Thanks for the feedback... If anyone else tries this, and it works, please leave feedback so we can get an idea if this is consistently working or not.
Great video! the tube of caulk worked like a charm. I did have the bit wander on me, but it wasn't too bad and you can't see the marks when its in the tank.
I got a Subtank Plus in a trade with my cousin .Had it for like 2 months and probally like 10 times got it out to use it and always get dry hits .Seen your video today and decided to get it out and try and it worked . Thanks for the info and idea. I hate dry hits and cough my ass off because of my asthma but now this makes it usable again . I tryed at 20,25,30,40 watts and no dry hits .Been chain vaping like for 1 hour to test it .
+jaybird3446 You're welcome and thanks for sharing. All I use is two subtank mini's in rotation and my wife uses one, it's the best. Anyway, glad the idea worked out for you...
the holes are the way to go im vaping 70 vg 30 pg at 40 watts with a .46 coil i just wick straight thru the holes into the coil cut the wick flush and no dry hits at all i had just gave up on the rba glad i didn't thanks rhinsen
Hello! I did what you did, and i've got to say it worked, i mean i still sense the burnt flavor but it reduced very much, i think about 90%. It can be a device problem without a total fix (in my case), but thank you for the tip, i can now vape much better, and sense a tiny, almost none burnt flavor, Thank you rhinsen.
I been using mine since got it run a 70/30 mix in my tank never had a dry hit from it to much cotton makes it harder to wick to little causes it to flood and once you find the right balance of wicking it's a great rba I cut my cotton to where it just lays on the base and don't do that whole 🐇 ear thing then tucking cotton down sides of chamber sleeve vape mine around 45w and been enjoying it without any modifications
Just to add.. I drill my holes to about 2mm for juice and then the same at the bottom air flow on the bottom of the RBA. Mine already has the 2 slit air flow, not the holes like some earlier models. I use a drip tank on my mod (100w) and i use this kanger tank on an e-pen battery. Vplum battery running 5-16w) I build at 1.8-0.8 with 28ga Kanthal. So.. I can vape for hours at 12-16w, blow rings (not BIG rings.. but good to practise) and get a decent cloud.
the difference between drilling it high and just making the hole on the original one bigger is the juice level. one the juice hits below the level of that hole you gonna have to refill it. but no doubt it works well.
Interesting, I just picked up one of these tanks after a bad experience with the Lemo Drop RTA and have not had one issue with dry hits using the RBA section. One thing I do is to make sure there is no wick sitting about the juice channel, When looking down through the top of the RBA, I can see the channels while the wick is in there. But good to know if I start having problems with it that you have figured this out. Thanks!
I might have to do this. I just wonder why they made the RBA holes so small in the first place? Someone needs a beating for deciding on those tiny holes because our throats take a beating with those dry hits. Other than that, it's a great tank.
to be honest ive completely avoided all of this trouble by simply buying a five pack of coils. then using them till their death. then rebuilding all of them with ten wrap micro coils. unbelievable how well it works. itl sit at 1 ohm but the vape is cool the air flow is way better than the rba and the wicking is absolutely perfect. use a 26 guage kanthal and please try it out. the occ coil head is way to easy to rebuild. you will save ass loads of money and all you gotta do is not lose the occ shell and your set for life.
im using the same set up the i stick 30w and at 1 ohm the vapor chicks harder than my friends .5 ohm with no dry hits ever and completly smooth dense vapor
Russellwoot72 I'm glad that is working for you but for me I prefer to use the RBA. To be honest, it really isn't that much trouble to drill the holes. In the end, whatever works and whatever method you prefer to use, that's what you stick with... Thanks for the comment.
rhinsen right on and i wasnt trying to be a dick tho either. only reason i prefer rebuilding the heads is cause they have more airflow. if you look in the rba there is a artificial screen thats why it draws harder than the coils. i might give this method a try considering i have three rbas to mess with
Hey Rhinsen, Did you drill only one hole or two holes through the RBA? If you drilled 2 holes, did you just drill both holes at the same time after you drilled the first hole? Or did you turned it around and tried to recenter it then drill it?
Henry Nguyen I drilled two holes, one hole on each side above the juice channel. I drilled one hole and then flipped the cylinder over and drilled the other. They line up exactly 180 degrees from each other as do the juice channels.
Ni5ei No, because the channels are still letting juice in. Mine has been below the holes several times and I did not experience any dry hits. However, I actually like the holes because I use them as a warning level to myself indicating that I need to refill soon...
Thanks I saw this video a few days ago and tried this. Man what a big difference. Now my tank hits like a champ. Anyone that has this problem with the Kanger RBA this will take care of it.
i did it also to my original RBA tonight massive difference and i'm now vaping 90% VG with no dry hits. Ive not used the new one yet but will try it when this one is due for changing cant see it being much different now although the new RBA doesn't have the juice channels at the bottom.
I want to do this but I keep thinking the drill bit will continually skid off the barrel when I start to drill it. Did you have any such problem and how did you get around it? Thanks.
***** Yes, I was worried about that as well. But the caulking tube tip is tapered and I pushed cylinder on it pretty tight which helped hold the cylinder in place. The drill bit did move around on me a little bit (made a few minor scratches you can't even really see) so I just tried to start the drill speed very slowly until I felt the tip bite into the metal then I increased the speed to complete the hole. When drilling, try as best you can to hold the drill at the peak of the cylinder curve and completely perpendicular as well. The thing is, the worst that can happen is you get a few scratches but eventually the bit will go through. In my opinion the benefit of doing this mod far outweighs the risk of minimal cosmetic damage to the rba...
***** i hit a nail on the spot i wanted, this makes a small dent but you're gonna drill that out anyway...and that keeps it in line. You'll still have some movement but not nearly as much.
***** Just to add, someone had commented about using masking tape wrapped around the cylinder. This prevents the drill bit from sliding. If I were drilling the holes for the first time, I would use the tape...
Greenguy67 I'm going to be performing this mod on another subtank mini (for my wife) and will post a video showing me drilling the holes and then wicking the coil. I will send you a message when I upload the vid...
Greenguy67 Here is the follow up video showing me drilling one of the holes and the wicking. Hope it helps you out a bit... th-cam.com/video/Vg2X0kbyG8w/w-d-xo.html
Hey bob, Wondering if you could help me out? Recently bought a kanger subtank mini v2 which I use with an innokin cool fire 4 battery and it works fine with the 0.5 coils bare using lots of juice, but when I use the 1.2 coils they seem to last a day or 2 (max) before getting dry hits. Example, I put in a 1.2 coil yesterday after priming for 10 mins, it worked fine all day, changed the flavour today and all I'm getting is dry hits which constantly makes me cough. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance! Ps I am vaping at the reccomended wattage on the instructions which is provided with the tank.
+Ashley Brown I'm sorry I don't think I can be much help with the premade coils because I'm not using those. I build my coils using the RBA (the rebuildable with the holes). My coil builds are between 1 ohm and 1.2 ohm at about 28 gauge which is actually three 32 gauge wires twisted together. I prefer the higher ohm coils because they consume less juice and my battery life is better. I've tried the .5 ohm build but I don't see any "vaping experience" difference between that and the 1.2 ohm. The only advice I can give is make sure you drip directly on the coil and cotton before installing in the tank. Also, a few dry hits can permanently burn the cotton and you will continue to get a nasty taste until you either change the cotton or you change out the premade coil. Good luck to you.
+Ashley Brown Also, if the new flavor has a higher VG content of around say 80% or above that could cause an issue because the juice is thicker and may not be flowing as freely as the previous juice. Another thing just as a reference I run my wattage for the 1.2 ohm coil at around 14.5 to 15 watts. But the real measure for me is the volts. I like to adjust the wattage so the voltage is about 4.1 to 4.2 volts no matter what size coil I'm using.
I get dry hits no matter what i have rda, occ coils...dry hit after dry hit..When I first got this tank it was fine then i put a fresh coil in and ughh dry hit then tried a build with the same results...this is the only tank out of the 5 different brands of tanks that gives me a problem...except for the Lemo it leaks lol
rhinsen Didnt have a drill bit that wasnt too big so I used a dremel and cut off wheel and just cut thin little slits in the side ..Perfect so far no more dry hits YEAH !! Thanks for the video it definitely helped!!! Imm gonna get the new rebuildable with the holes in the side too ...why not right? But till then im good ...thanks again brother!
+elliott nunez You're welcome and I have seen the dremel used for cutting the slits with good results... In fact, the dremel way might even be easier than drilling holes. Hell, they're both easy, call it a draw.
+elliott nunez you may be using a Box mod with high Watt, and 50/50 juice which is too thin for high Wattage. first thing you should try is to go thicker juice, then drill those holes into your chamber and you will be a happy camper. Vape on, smoking is dead, vaping is the future
+Alfredo Gomez If you are using the RBA and building your own coils then watch videos on wicking. Your problem is with the wicking, you're doing it wrong perhaps...
+rhinsen yes that was my point, wasn't intending to cause you to be defensive in any way.. thanks for the video as the information has helped me understand the setup better..
This doesn't work for me ... bcoz I don't have a drill set yet. lol! I'm sure it would work tho as it's common sense to get the juice to flow well. However, I got an idea watching this vid (Thanks!) What I did after wicking & making sure the cotton is saturated, I used a needle to poke around/inside the wet cotton to get flow better. It actually work. Hope it last tho.
+Jedaqia Angel Thanks for the comment, if you're method stops working you can always purchase the new updated RBA+ which has the holes. Good luck and happy vaping...
+Karl Burton Yes, the version 2 (RBA Plus) has the holes, this video is of the original version RBA that does not have holes. The holes can be created which essentially give you the newer version.
rhinsen as you can tell I was niccing out!! Lol!!...I got so frustrated with this one I hopped over to another one... And I got so frustrated with that one that I commented "you guys all love the sounds of your voices... I am over halfway through the video and still no directive, no conclusion.".. I was on a roll!
+Adam Blake What makes you think it's the regular tank? You're wrong, trust me, it's the subtank mini (22mm). You can clearly see in the video how it fits on the istick. If it was the 25mm subtank plus it would hang over the edge 1.5mm and it does not, it's flush with the edge which proves it's the mini. Simple mistake on your part, no problem. Happy vaping!!!
![ถามตรงๆ กับ อาจตุพร ทำไม ประเทศไทย ใครเป็นนายก ก็โดนด่า พอออกเเล้วคนคิดถึง!!?? l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3YFLMXxBGAs/mqdefault.jpg)
its done, i did it to two of my subtank RBAs and they now work as good as a brand new retail coil. Thanks to this video I will save a bunch of money.
Greenguy67 You're welcome, thanks for the comment...
Thanks for the video, I just drilled the two holes in my RTA and built my very first coil, so far its working excellent. Thanks again.
+Robbie R Thanks for the comment and feedback...
Just did one of my RBA's and this works!
I used a caulk tip and a vice and drilled all the way through, doing this means that you will have a rough edge on the exit hole, a little sand paper smoothed it out.
Tony Peterson Thanks for the comment, glad it's working for you...
I wish I did this drill method earlier !
ejuice needs room to flow & now it does like it should, my subtank mni is working so good now its even more amazing, no worries of a dry hit again ! no fussing with wick as much either !
Thanks for the video rhinsen ! this is an awesome fix, vape on !
Mr VaEHp You're welcome and vape on...
Just to let anyone who's drilling anything ,if you find yourself pressing on the drill to make a hole your bit is eather Not Sharp enough or your using the wrong type bit ie wood bit on metal. It's all good idea to support it the way you did and stabilize it in a small table type vise. Start slow and use a light oil on metal just remember to clean it off with a degreaser to remove any oil that maybe left on the metal. If you have or you should get a small drill punch to start or Mark the place on the unit to be drilled.
Paul Murro Thanks for the advice and tips...
this is absolutely the way to go, thanks dude for the motivation..cheers
viktorvaughnisnike Thanks for the feedback... If anyone else tries this, and it works, please leave feedback so we can get an idea if this is consistently working or not.
Great video! the tube of caulk worked like a charm. I did have the bit wander on me, but it wasn't too bad and you can't see the marks when its in the tank.
Ralph Vergara Thanks and thanks for the feedback....
I got a Subtank Plus in a trade with my cousin .Had it for like 2 months and probally like 10 times got it out to use it and always get dry hits .Seen your video today and decided to get it out and try and it worked . Thanks for the info and idea. I hate dry hits and cough my ass off because of my asthma but now this makes it usable again . I tryed at 20,25,30,40 watts and no dry hits .Been chain vaping like for 1 hour to test it .
+jaybird3446 You're welcome and thanks for sharing. All I use is two subtank mini's in rotation and my wife uses one, it's the best. Anyway, glad the idea worked out for you...
you must be at 0.5 ohm or lower, right? To need more than 30w.
the holes are the way to go im vaping 70 vg 30 pg at 40 watts with a .46 coil i just wick straight thru the holes into the coil cut the wick flush and no dry hits at all i had just gave up on the rba glad i didn't thanks rhinsen
Hello! I did what you did, and i've got to say it worked, i mean i still sense the burnt flavor but it reduced very much, i think about 90%. It can be a device problem without a total fix (in my case), but thank you for the tip, i can now vape much better, and sense a tiny, almost none burnt flavor, Thank you rhinsen.
+rhinsen ok thanks i will see if there is any problem with that.
I have the same setup, the exact same colors and everything! Thanks for the video
+Yousef AlOtaibi Welcome, thanks for the comment...
I been using mine since got it run a 70/30 mix in my tank never had a dry hit from it to much cotton makes it harder to wick to little causes it to flood and once you find the right balance of wicking it's a great rba I cut my cotton to where it just lays on the base and don't do that whole 🐇 ear thing then tucking cotton down sides of chamber sleeve vape mine around 45w and been enjoying it without any modifications
Works perficly!!! Thank you for the tip. And guys this works at 80%vg very well
+Adam Sisson (Garam) Thanks for the comment and feedback...
This works and you don't have to be so finicky with the amount of cotton. I don't know what the hell they were thinking with those tiny damn holes.
+9pt9 Couldn't agree more, thanks for the feedback...
Just to add.. I drill my holes to about 2mm for juice and then the same at the bottom air flow on the bottom of the RBA. Mine already has the 2 slit air flow, not the holes like some earlier models. I use a drip tank on my mod (100w) and i use this kanger tank on an e-pen battery. Vplum battery running 5-16w) I build at 1.8-0.8 with 28ga Kanthal. So.. I can vape for hours at 12-16w, blow rings (not BIG rings.. but good to practise) and get a decent cloud.
thank you soo much!!!!!!!!!
i just done it....
and what???
no dry hit~~~~~~~
on twisted 28g .073ohm
How many wraps on the twisted 28g ? Wow
Thanks man :)
erat fairul Thanks for the comment and feedback...
no problem =)
the difference between drilling it high and just making the hole on the original one bigger is the juice level. one the juice hits below the level of that hole you gonna have to refill it. but no doubt it works well.
IronBastiyon G Thanks for the comment...
Interesting, I just picked up one of these tanks after a bad experience with the Lemo Drop RTA and have not had one issue with dry hits using the RBA section. One thing I do is to make sure there is no wick sitting about the juice channel, When looking down through the top of the RBA, I can see the channels while the wick is in there. But good to know if I start having problems with it that you have figured this out. Thanks!
I might have to do this. I just wonder why they made the RBA holes so small in the first place? Someone needs a beating for deciding on those tiny holes because our throats take a beating with those dry hits. Other than that, it's a great tank.
John Sparks The new "updated" RBA Plus has the holes. But for those (most everyone) that have this "older" version, drilling the holes works great...
Excellent job 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 I did the same thing , right on !!!
+Iceman 213 Thanks for the comment. Happy vaping...
to be honest ive completely avoided all of this trouble by simply buying a five pack of coils. then using them till their death. then rebuilding all of them with ten wrap micro coils. unbelievable how well it works. itl sit at 1 ohm but the vape is cool the air flow is way better than the rba and the wicking is absolutely perfect. use a 26 guage kanthal and please try it out. the occ coil head is way to easy to rebuild. you will save ass loads of money and all you gotta do is not lose the occ shell and your set for life.
im using the same set up the i stick 30w and at 1 ohm the vapor chicks harder than my friends .5 ohm with no dry hits ever and completly smooth dense vapor
Russellwoot72 I'm glad that is working for you but for me I prefer to use the RBA. To be honest, it really isn't that much trouble to drill the holes. In the end, whatever works and whatever method you prefer to use, that's what you stick with... Thanks for the comment.
rhinsen right on and i wasnt trying to be a dick tho either. only reason i prefer rebuilding the heads is cause they have more airflow. if you look in the rba there is a artificial screen thats why it draws harder than the coils. i might give this method a try considering i have three rbas to mess with
Russellwoot72 I didn't take your original comment negatively. If you do try this report back and let me know how it worked for you...
rhinsen im gonna try and use a dremel do you think that would work?
Hey Rhinsen, Did you drill only one hole or two holes through the RBA?
If you drilled 2 holes, did you just drill both holes at the same time after you drilled the first hole? Or did you turned it around and tried to recenter it then drill it?
Henry Nguyen I drilled two holes, one hole on each side above the juice channel. I drilled one hole and then flipped the cylinder over and drilled the other. They line up exactly 180 degrees from each other as do the juice channels.
That sounds like a good idea.
And what if the liquid level gets below the holes?
That's a 20% reduction of useable tank capacity...
Ni5ei No, because the channels are still letting juice in. Mine has been below the holes several times and I did not experience any dry hits. However, I actually like the holes because I use them as a warning level to myself indicating that I need to refill soon...
thanks bro for this video, was looking for the new rba and can't find it.nor can you buy through Kanger. Have tryed to talk to them and got nowhere.
Thanks I saw this video a few days ago and tried this. Man what a big difference. Now my tank hits like a champ. Anyone that has this problem with the Kanger RBA this will take care of it.
i did it also to my original RBA tonight massive difference and i'm now vaping 90% VG with no dry hits. Ive not used the new one yet but will try it when this one is due for changing cant see it being much different now although the new RBA doesn't have the juice channels at the bottom.
Gregory Curry You're welcome, thanks for the comment...
Fats2212 Thanks for the feedback...
I want to do this but I keep thinking the drill bit will continually skid off the barrel when I start to drill it. Did you have any such problem and how did you get around it? Thanks.
***** Yes, I was worried about that as well. But the caulking tube tip is tapered and I pushed cylinder on it pretty tight which helped hold the cylinder in place. The drill bit did move around on me a little bit (made a few minor scratches you can't even really see) so I just tried to start the drill speed very slowly until I felt the tip bite into the metal then I increased the speed to complete the hole. When drilling, try as best you can to hold the drill at the peak of the cylinder curve and completely perpendicular as well. The thing is, the worst that can happen is you get a few scratches but eventually the bit will go through. In my opinion the benefit of doing this mod far outweighs the risk of minimal cosmetic damage to the rba...
rhinsen Thank you, I'll give it a go. I've just ordered a replacement RBA section anyway so I'm covered if I mess it up. Thanks again.
***** Welcome and good luck...
***** i hit a nail on the spot i wanted, this makes a small dent but you're gonna drill that out anyway...and that keeps it in line. You'll still have some movement but not nearly as much.
***** Just to add, someone had commented about using masking tape wrapped around the cylinder. This prevents the drill bit from sliding. If I were drilling the holes for the first time, I would use the tape...
thank you, i will try this...i was about to give up myself! how are you wicking it, though?
rhinsen would you be able to send me a pic of your wicking? Id really appreciate it if possible. or maybe upload a quick video with it? thanks a ton.
Greenguy67 I'm going to be performing this mod on another subtank mini (for my wife) and will post a video showing me drilling the holes and then wicking the coil. I will send you a message when I upload the vid...
rhinsen awesome, very kindo f you. I will be waiting for that, thanks!
Greenguy67 Here is the follow up video showing me drilling one of the holes and the wicking. Hope it helps you out a bit... th-cam.com/video/Vg2X0kbyG8w/w-d-xo.html
i modified it to a bigger hole and i got a leaking problem, but no more dry hit..
thanks man
You're welcome, hope it works for you...
Hey bob, Wondering if you could help me out? Recently bought a kanger subtank mini v2 which I use with an innokin cool fire 4 battery and it works fine with the 0.5 coils bare using lots of juice, but when I use the 1.2 coils they seem to last a day or 2 (max) before getting dry hits. Example, I put in a 1.2 coil yesterday after priming for 10 mins, it worked fine all day, changed the flavour today and all I'm getting is dry hits which constantly makes me cough. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance! Ps I am vaping at the reccomended wattage on the instructions which is provided with the tank.
+Ashley Brown I'm sorry I don't think I can be much help with the premade coils because I'm not using those. I build my coils using the RBA (the rebuildable with the holes). My coil builds are between 1 ohm and 1.2 ohm at about 28 gauge which is actually three 32 gauge wires twisted together. I prefer the higher ohm coils because they consume less juice and my battery life is better. I've tried the .5 ohm build but I don't see any "vaping experience" difference between that and the 1.2 ohm. The only advice I can give is make sure you drip directly on the coil and cotton before installing in the tank. Also, a few dry hits can permanently burn the cotton and you will continue to get a nasty taste until you either change the cotton or you change out the premade coil. Good luck to you.
+Ashley Brown Also, if the new flavor has a higher VG content of around say 80% or above that could cause an issue because the juice is thicker and may not be flowing as freely as the previous juice. Another thing just as a reference I run my wattage for the 1.2 ohm coil at around 14.5 to 15 watts. But the real measure for me is the volts. I like to adjust the wattage so the voltage is about 4.1 to 4.2 volts no matter what size coil I'm using.
+rhinsen okay, no worries. Thanks for the reply.
thanks this works awesome
+William Estep You're welcome, thanks for the comment...
I made 3mm holes on mine
I get dry hits no matter what i have rda, occ coils...dry hit after dry hit..When I first got this tank it was fine then i put a fresh coil in and ughh dry hit then tried a build with the same results...this is the only tank out of the 5 different brands of tanks that gives me a problem...except for the Lemo it leaks lol
+elliott nunez Did you drill the holes?
rhinsen Thank you !!
rhinsen Didnt have a drill bit that wasnt too big so I used a dremel and cut off wheel and just cut thin little slits in the side ..Perfect so far no more dry hits YEAH !! Thanks for the video it definitely helped!!! Imm gonna get the new rebuildable with the holes in the side too ...why not right? But till then im good ...thanks again brother!
+elliott nunez You're welcome and I have seen the dremel used for cutting the slits with good results... In fact, the dremel way might even be easier than drilling holes. Hell, they're both easy, call it a draw.
+elliott nunez you may be using a Box mod with high Watt, and 50/50 juice which is too thin for high Wattage.
first thing you should try is to go thicker juice, then drill those holes into your chamber and you will be a happy camper.
Vape on, smoking is dead, vaping is the future
i have the sub tank mini v2 and i still get dry hits at 37 watts somebody help me out what am doing wrong.
+Alfredo Gomez What's your voltage reading at 37 watts Alfredo?
I think its 3.89
rhinsen Yea its 3.98
+Alfredo Gomez If you are using the RBA and building your own coils then watch videos on wicking. Your problem is with the wicking, you're doing it wrong perhaps...
+Alfredo Gomez Any luck Alfredo? Let me know...
the new ones come with those holes lol
+Josh Ketchum The video was made before the new version came out...
+rhinsen yes that was my point, wasn't intending to cause you to be defensive in any way.. thanks for the video as the information has helped me understand the setup better..
+Josh Ketchum You're welcome, glad the video helped you out. Happy Vaping!!!
This doesn't work for me ... bcoz I don't have a drill set yet. lol! I'm sure it would work tho as it's common sense to get the juice to flow well. However, I got an idea watching this vid (Thanks!) What I did after wicking & making sure the cotton is saturated, I used a needle to poke around/inside the wet cotton to get flow better. It actually work. Hope it last tho.
+Jedaqia Angel Thanks for the comment, if you're method stops working you can always purchase the new updated RBA+ which has the holes. Good luck and happy vaping...
mine came with the holes in
+Karl Burton Yes, the version 2 (RBA Plus) has the holes, this video is of the original version RBA that does not have holes. The holes can be created which essentially give you the newer version.
Minor surgery...take a 2:40 to get to this point...long winded
Yes, I agree, thanks for the comment...
rhinsen as you can tell I was niccing out!! Lol!!...I got so frustrated with this one I hopped over to another one... And I got so frustrated with that one that I commented "you guys all love the sounds of your voices... I am over halfway through the video and still no directive, no conclusion.".. I was on a roll!
rhinsen I'm getting agitated with it playing RIGHT NOW..Lol..
This is not the subtank mini. this is the subtank plus.
+Adam Blake What makes you think it's the regular tank? You're wrong, trust me, it's the subtank mini (22mm). You can clearly see in the video how it fits on the istick. If it was the 25mm subtank plus it would hang over the edge 1.5mm and it does not, it's flush with the edge which proves it's the mini. Simple mistake on your part, no problem. Happy vaping!!!
+Adam Blake this is definately the mini. your thinking of the nano buddy. :)
Yeah i'm totally wrong on this one. My bad guys.