Uni-Byte 0018 - Fluke 8050A Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.พ. 2023
- In this video we have a Fluke 8050A basket case that has an issue with the display. This great little 4 1/2 digit meter deserves to keep on going.
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The Doctor is in :O) 100 points awarded. GR8T job.
Thank you!
That’s a creative way of getting a chip off without a hot air station! 😂 Glad it worked!
Thanks for the comment. It's a fairly time honored way to get the job done. Especially with these older boards that seem to have their traces held down with wallpaper paste. I do have a hot air station, but it would have destroyed the board.
@@uni-byte ah that makes sense, I’ve never worked with such old boards so I didn’t know about their fragility
I've got two of these one on the bench and one in storage. I've used them since the mid-1980s and I love them.
The only thing better than one of these is two of them!
"Please excuse the noise…" Within reason the noise of a workshop is good, even power hammers in a blacksmith's video.
It's a sign work is getting done.
I love my Fluke 8050A DMM! Mine had a bad LCD display, and I did a replacement project to drive a graphical color LCD display; looks really sharp!
They are nice meters. A color LCD would be very nice. I'll have to look that up for future reference.
Do you have a pic and instructions
The Fluke 8050A is a great device, but some of them have problems with faulty LCDs. There are some mods to replacing the LCD with a modern TFT. I did my own mod with extra features but haven't release the resources yet, it's not final yet.
Sounds interesting. Please keep us updated on that.
It is a capable backup for your Siglent. Or, you could sell it for a couple of hundred to those who still need a benchtop meter.
It is actually a great backup to the Siglent. I'd have to rank it as my 2nd best bench meter for sure. I'm going to keep this one. I have a bench where I work on vintage computers and it's the main meter there, along with a 8010A for when I need two. However, where I got it I can get more and might just try fixing up a couple for re-sale. I doubt I'd get a couple of hundred for them though.
I liked the multi impedance selectable dB range measurements. And the zero reference function so you could select the current voltage as your ref zero and measure plus or minus deviation for either volts or dB.
The REL mode is golden on these. These are my favorite Fluke.
Great video.....
Thanks Ken!
thanks for the video.
You are welcome. Thanks for the comment!
I worked with a heap of those. They generally were reliable and if you can overlook no autorange, you have all the bench meter most people need. The fails I saw were some of the ones we had would have develop ACV errors but still be OK in DC. Or the ones with the battery option would need the C nicads replaced sometimes. They would not function on line power with no batteries installed.
OH, and LCD problems once in awhile too. Lot of the Fluke meters will need the zebra strips and LCD contacts wiped with isop and often will return to normal. Or new zebra strips if they are too deformed.
@@tomsherwood4650 Yup. Or even display drivers. The thing with these is they were so god they saw a lot of usage hours. I would not be surprised if they saw 5000 hours a year or more - way more. I had one on my bench back when they first hit the market and it got left on 24/7. I had that job for nearly 6 years. That's over 50 thousand hours. Bits get tired after that length of time.
Nice fix!
Thanks!
Nice job.
Thanks!
Dude, you really need to invest in a desoldering station!
I have one, but it needs fixing :-(
Parts are on the way though.
I have a 8050, love it. Or, I did. All of the sudden, it quit measuring positive voltage. Still measures negative voltage properly. Bummer.
Just think, you get to fix it! Cool!
@@uni-byte Indeed I do. Good thing I have a working 80258B.
@@uni-byteit should very probably be the same chip you fixed! Quite easy…
I noticed that you didn't use the batteries. How did you bypass them?
This one never had the battery option installed. Good thing too as unlike the 8010A/8012A the 8050A with the battery option will not work if the batteries are removed until it undergoes some surgery.
Given that the board is fragile and that you could not be sure that your new chips were good why did you not solder a socket in so that you would have the option of swapping out the chip without risking wrecking the board?
100%. There is a bit of story there, but suffice it to say 1) I had no sockets of that size, and when I realized that 2) I did a quick test of the part before soldering it in. But you are right, I should have used a socket regardless of the status of the part. Good call.
@@uni-byte I keep a supply of turned-pin female header strips on hand. They can be cut to make any size IC socket. Just plug in a couple of short strips across to hold them in alignment while soldering. Regards, David
@@davidv1289 Nice idea!
Why did that particular chip fail? The other display driver chips haven't failed.
in the imitable words of Bart Simpson "It was like that when I got here". Since I have no history with that DMM I can only guess. More than likely that chip was on the weaker side and either just it's age or possibly a transient of some sort was the catalyst for it to fail.