Tek 465 Repair
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 เม.ย. 2017
- I got this "parts for repair" Tektronix 465 scope on ebay a couple of weeks ago. I thought it might be fun to try to resurrect it. It was fun indeed! If you want to go down this road here are some helpful links:
www.tek.com/support/faqs/where...
bama.edebris.com/manuals/tek
w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/465
groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/T...
TLDW: bad capacitor replaced. now it works. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Tektronix was one of the few companies back in the day that had manuals with absolutely all the information needed to analyze the device. It was even above and beyond what the user needed. They were so superior in their technology that they did not fear giving the information out.
Tektronix scopes are addicting to collect. I've got close to 40 of them now.
40 wow 😄 There's me thinking that the used for parts 485 I just bought on ebay to try to repair was foolish. Thanks for making me feel better about that decision 😉
Nothing beats the feeling when you successfully fix an electronic device!
True 🙂⭐⭐
First, thank you for making this. Second, thanks to TH-cam for suggesting it. I have this scope, though version B that was given to me by my father-in-law, he even had a friend calibrate it for me (professionally). Though this was some years ago and it has traveled around the world a bit (ok maybe just half way around the world). It has been acting up, but you gave some sources on where to start troubleshooting it. I would like to buy a new scope with all the bells and whistles, though I want more time to do my research. Part of me wants to buy a cheap one and the other side wants to save up more money and get a good one. IF I can get this working (might just be operator error), it will give me more time to save up for something good. Today I went into work to use the scope there (was work related). Nice to have that option, though would rather use something at the house. Thanks again.
Thanks for great video and the links. Saved me a lot of time and i fixed my scope by watching your video. My fuse was keep blowing and i did not have the trace on the screen.In my case, the capacitor C1419 was culprit even though it was not short to ground and ECR meter showed it was good. I just changed it with an electrolytic capacitor of same value and it came back to life, yeaaaaaay. At some point i will recap the scope but it is working for now. Thanks again.
Great vid. I genuinely smiled when it worked isn't repairing stuff others throw away the best feeling ever.
Glad the fix was so simple for you. The 465/475/485 scopes were great. I have fixed several of them through the the years and many times it was those damned tantalum bead caps that fail. Sometimes they fail by shorting and can take out other components while making a foul-smelling smoke. When one of these scopes goes bad that’s the first thing I suspect. Sometimes you can spot the charred cap before even applying power.
"Bob's your uncle?" You've been listening to Dave.
This guy is like the American version of Big Clive
Love when a quick TS goes right. Thanks for the show and good work bud. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
I love these old Tectronics scopes. This one happens to be one of my favorites. Used them a lot. Newer models can be found cheaply and are quite common.
Lovely .... thanks for that. Took me back to before 1982 when I left the bench. Worked for an electonic measuring instrument hire company as a repair and calibration engineer. We had so many 465's with noisy attenuators. All was needed was to strip out the VA board and litteraly wash it !,clean the angel fingers carefully and replace. Never had one back. Not sure if it was a 465 but there is a transistor that sits on a pcb half way down the tube. THAT cost me a couple of hours to find it short circuited, but usually a very reliable scope and beautiful trace. Favourite was the 453 to work on though. Ah memories .... again TY :) Tektronix are beautiful in design and manufacture. Shame they missed out on the IEEE422 spec, which HP won.
Glad I could prompt some good memories.....
Best for me to stay off eBay, Craigslist, and OfferUp. I'm not on social media so I avoid FB Marketplace. A low price, curiosity, and a nostalgic bend get me almost everytime. God Bless
I like when you enjoy the fixed scope at the end :) You are very happy!
Yes. Yes I was.
I like your genuine happiness when you saw that trace on the screen. Nice job! I see your lab is full of old testgear...
it is a great feeling to have fixed something and give it new life.
@@grtyvr yeah, I know that feeling, that's why I noticed it
I got one of those at Goodwill for $49 that had 3 loose connections inside but works OK now.
Nice score!
Just what I needed. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I also picked one up in April wit the same issue. One thing that would be help is showing your replacement of the capacitor.
Jesse, thanks! I did not record the actual replacement. But there are other problems with the scope. Chop and Add don't seem to be working properly. There is more to come. And I have to clean the pot's.
I just got back from the electronics store with the recommended cap. I'll let you know how it goes. I'm excited to see your other projects! I actually purchased this scope to see sound waves created from synthesizers. I'll def post some vids once all is said and done. Thanks again for the vid. 😊
I love trips to the electronics store! I hope it goes well. I removed the cap from the top of the board and used desolder wick to clear out the holes.
I bought this same scope and fired it up last night. Worked fine and I was calibrating it then took a short break. When I came back no traces. Nothing on the beam find and everything else works. After seeing this video I’ll try checking that capacitor. Sounds like these are a common issue for this scope. Thank you.
You're welcome.
Its never the fuse, that only another system. I've fixed a number of these things. Its always the electrolytic caps in the immediate vicinity of the fuse. Check all of your supply voltages! Especially the 15V one - that controls your intensity...
Theres just a few electrolytic that are sketchy, most of them are pretty solid.
I would suspect every tantalum...
What a lovely sight!, I used to work for Tek and their scopes are VERY well designed. Good job!
One of these has stumbled its way into my hands via a friend and I'm planning to repair it. Gonna open it up later this week, wish me luck!
Luck!
Excellent repair!
You know your stuff, great videos, thanks
I NEED another Tektronix scope!
That's one of the things I like about the old scopes, they are very robust and you can easily fix them most of the time. If you like some bells and whistles and still be able to fix it somewhat easily try a TEK 7000 series scope, like a 7854 etc. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Just discovered your channel and congrats on a simple (isnt it always!) few cent repair and you have to watch those old tantalums- they are great when they work but......
I bought a Tek 2232 with no power on ebay for a song and sadly the whole main board also includes the power supply components. When the Power trans blew, it took out nearly a dozen components and burning- a real mess. After a few nights of attempted repair, i just looked the schematic again and realised that all that fed one supply point to the scope of 43V with a smoothing capacitor. So i got a quality power brick and soldered in a male socket to the cable and a female socket into the back of the unit and wired with fuse into the power supply line and removed the large capacitor as the new supply had its own smoothing on the secondary output. Plugged in in and turned it on and the scope and digital board and all works perfectly drawing about 1.3 amps and the power supply and fuse is rated at 2 amps so all good and better still the scope is floating or i can plug in a universal plug and use the Earth pin to ground the scope. The live and neutral pin wiring in the scope is cut off no live power can enter the scope.
I had actually rang a repair shop and described the mess, and they didnt want to touch it and these are pros! haha!
So the scope may not be "original" like my other scopes, but it works and power supply problems will never occur again short of 1 min to swap out another supply and just plug in..
That is a great fix. Replace the whole LV section front end. Nice work!
@@grtyvr Thanks, they had a 555 for the PS oscillator and that was toast too AND they didnt socket it so its one of the few times i made more of a mess repairing a device! The 2232 is a great 100mhz with digital readouts and mem and movable cursors and all that and nicely laid out mostly except they used a massive main board on the bottom with lots on it it including the PS , so not a lot of room to move there. The scem is easy to follow the sections and thankfully one supply line before it splits off to other areas so 2 wires and a socket and you are done only caveat is the metal socket is going into the metal earthed case at back so had to carefully insulate that and add another fuse in the input cable so unit has 3 fuses haha in it now.. i am very cautious...
I also have an old 467 B&K CRT restorer so i can clean all the old scope crts i have and any friends who have the old arcade uprights with crts- so it pays for itself in favours lol...
"Don't get pokey with your fingers" 11:38 literally pokes a cap. lol
Well done great job. Its great fixing stuff like this. I have been trying to fix a Tek2440 for the last two months with little success. But I enjoy it nevertheless.
Thank you. The feeling of satisfaction when it actually showed a trace was delicious. Good luck with the 2440!
All those discreet, HUGE components.
Your troubleshooting skills are quite good! The basics are these:
(1) Always check power supply values first. (Which you did.)
(2) Always Google for folks in a similar boat. (Which you did.)
(3) Always suspect tantalum caps. (Which you did.)
Note: the TekScopes@groups.io is the new incarnation of the now-dead Yahoo Tek Scopes group. There is also a TekScopes2@groups.io group who claim to be "more friendly" than the original group. Both are good resources nonetheless.
Please let us know how the final product turned out, o.k.?
War Planner
Agree. Electronics 101 ... (high school shop for me).
1.) GET Service Manual and Schematics for Appliance on the Bench.
2.) CHECK AC-DC Power Supply & DC-DC Conversion/Regulation. ALL Voltages (DVM, VOM, or VTVM required).
** This FIXES at least 50% of Common problems.**
3.) IF Power Good, THEN Check other I/O to appliance (if any, or not working) ... I/O active devices fail due to ESD & Operator Error.
4.) Still have issues? ... CHECK Section by Section (Measuring Voltage, Osc. Frequency, etc.)
Pretty cool. That was a standard issue for every engineer when I worked for Tek .
Nicely done! Amazing how a failed 20 cent part can bring such a fine scope to its knees. Thanks for sharing your repair adventure with the 465!
W1AEX and a bit sad that things are designed to be thrown away rather than repaired.
Lol, my 100 meg scope I used in 1979 when I worked for Sony Broadcast in Nyc, the 465 has nice Delay sweep
And a beauty it is.
I can't believe precision instruments were made with PCB's like that, Its amazing how far we've come since then.
Here's some breaking news for you. The world had already been here for some time before you arrived. Millions of PCBs were hand taped by very talented people.
Beautiful board. Although I suspect you did not like the flying parts in the high voltage supply. I was thinking the engineers may have done the terminal strip and point to point with the high voltage potentials where the sweep voltages and accelerating voltages come together. God Bless
When working on these old Tek scopes, how do you use a Variac and an isolation transformer? Do you hook them together or do you use each one separaely hooked into the 120VAC power line? Or, do you even need a Variac and an isolation transformer? I would think the Variac is handy in case an unknown condition Tek scope had a major short that you wouldn't want to apply full line voltage to. Is an isolation transformer handy or necessary when working on the old Tek scopes?
I have not used either of those so far. Probably a good idea though. Or at least a current limiting lamp in series.
Just picked up a Tek 466 'storage' scope; paid a ridiculous price. It is a little dirty, but that is never a challenge. Unfortunately, It did not come with the original Tek probes, which I really would like to find. Nor did it come with any manuals, but those are available online. I have not tested the machine yet. I guess it may need, besides cleaning, a thorough check-up and calibration. First, I will print the service manual, which is a rather substantial volume.
I only printed out the schematics that I needed to really study. I left the rest digital and read the PDF in multiple windows. I like having it open to many pages at once.
Awesome fix!
Hello, thanks, you're video is very interesting as I've the same issue as yours, but which capacitor was faulty? It's not clear, was it C1419?
Yes.
@@grtyvr thanks
If you might feel like cleaning the little white push buttons, be careful. Unfortunately, the text on those buttons is VERY weak, it may come off just by touching it with a damp paper towel. I did not even use soap or alcohol, just plain water. Apparantly, years of sweaty, sticky fingers have left a residue on top of those knobs that has made those texts dissolve. I guess I will print the texts on self-adhesive transparent film and put those on top of those buttons.
The feet on mine were not brittle, so I wonder if your scope was in an environment with a chemical that reacted with the plastic on the feet to make them brittle, and a similar reaction happened with the ink on the buttons.
You didn't show the removal of the board to get to the back side. Did you put the new capacitor on the front of the board by tacking it to old cap leads?
It has been a while since I did this but I don't recall pulling that board out. I don't think I did. I think I got the old cap off from the top using solder wick and a fine tip on the iron.
Thanks my Friend,
good job!
NIce repair and nice video!
good work....congratulations !!!!!!!!!
Thanks!
Found mine at the Dump works great! even had some good probes!
How anyone could simply throw such a beautiful piece of equipment in the dump is beyond me.
Well done!!
thanks
I just took possession of a 465 from ebay with similar problems. Could you elaborate on the Yahoo group you mentioned. I am unable to locate them.
groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/TekScopes/info
Now: groups.io/g/TekScopes
“Tear drop “ tantalum capacitors cause quite a few tears for me !
We are werking on a 434, which power starts up, and then quits. Then it starts up again, and stops again. There is no beam.
It is build in 1970, but i have a manual belonging to more recent types.
And: there is NO trouble shooting card in it..
I will consult Yahoo Tek group for this! Thanks for your video!
The Yahoo Tek group has moved over to Google Groups TekScopes@groups.io
twancol
Tektronix 434
w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/434
DO NOT LOSE the 3-48 Brass Hardware (treat like Gold).
Fastenal has 3-48 hardware ... BUT not your local Hardware store!!
Love the old school meter.
You mean this one? th-cam.com/video/U8yME2bag-k/w-d-xo.html
or this one? :) th-cam.com/video/gnrnJHiWDd0/w-d-xo.html
The Fluke
I have mine apart to identify a separate power supply problem. I've stared at this for half an hour and not certain where the starting point is to disassemble it. This thing is a cross between a puzzle and a birds nest. Ideas?
Lots of good pictures at: spurtikus.de/2016/03/30/repairing-a-tektronix-465-power-supply-z-axis-amplifier-vertical-pre-amplifier-issues/ and lazyelectrons.wordpress.com/2017/10/30/tektronix-465-repair/ The service manual has an exploded diagram on page 9-7 and 9-8 w140.com/tekwiki/images/5/55/070-1861-00.pdf. I did not have to pull out the board to change the capacitor.
I get one of these 465's and for me that would just be the start. Like it would have layed around for 25 years and amazingly 10 different circuits had failed blowing the tube. Right?
From what I have been reading, they are very reliable instruments. So probably not!
Removes the high voltage cover off and warns the viewer "not to be all pokey with your fingers in there"...then proceeds to poke around area with his fingers!!
Поздрави от България
Sorry I'm new to this stuff. Why doesn't the square wave show the vertical lines connecting the horizontal lines?
it is an artifact of tube scopes. If the beam has to move fast, it does not have a chance to illuminate the phosphor coating very much.
Mine did not come with the front cover. Second issue: the four black plastic feet are so brittle they broke on first contact. I removed them; I guess they must be unobtainable by now. Maybe I'll make some replacement legs with hardwood, so the scope can be put upright again.
Thank your for the tip. I will look for them on ebay.
Here is a listing for them.....
www.ebay.com/itm/Tektronix-465-475-465B-475A-Replacement-Cordwrap-Feet-Set-of-4/152946120811?hash=item239c4c986b:g:~TUAAOSwCtJaSDb3
Amazing a 5 cent part...it seems to almost always be a cap....
I have a working 465 that's in way worse cosmetic shape than that. You got lucky. I'm only 1 minute in but I bet it was a tantalum cap or two that went shorted. Pretty common on these.
Good guess! :-)
Always replace tantaliums in older equipment; they are notoriously unstable in the long run. The same applies to electrolitics, especially the lower values. ESR goes through the roof as capacitance rises.
It is on the "list of things to do" to recap the scope. Some day....
Good video. In the end, it was a bad capacitor. I'm a bit new to all this--did I miss the part where we SEE the capacitor? Did I miss that part? Seeing the bad capacitor in place would help me understand what happened in this video.
That is my big regret about the video. I didn't clearly show which capacitor it was in place on the board. You did not miss it, I did. But it is under the HV shield near the back. C1419 on the parts list.
GRTYVR, what circuit inside the oscilloscope will draw the horizontal voltage on the CRT screen?
Because there is no horizontal oscillator or vertical oscillator used inside an oscilloscope so how can it draw a sinewaveform on the CRT screen? The Ramp circuit only controls the electron beam only to the CRT screen?
Do you mean the vertical voltage? The vertical amplifier provides the signal. Or do you mean when in X-Y mode where you use one channel as the sweep generator?
@@grtyvr , when measuring a 1Khz sinewaveform signal on Oscope channel#1 which circuit name inside the oscilloscope measures the 1Khz signal and displays draws it on the CRT screen? since the Oscope doesn't use V&H oscillators inside how does it draw the horizontal voltage to draw a 1Khz sinewaveform?
@@billwilliams6338 the vertical amplifier takes the input waveform and amplifies it to a level that will deflect the beam as it sweeps across based on the frequency of the ramp generator (AKA the time base). If the signal is too large, an attenuator will reduce the voltage to a level suitable for the vertical amp stage. This is in an analog scope of course.
@@grtyvr yes the vertical amplifier ONLY amplifies the voltage and deflects the beam vertically. How does it draw the voltage horizontally to draw the sinewaveform because the vertical amplifier won't do this and there is not horizontal oscillators in analog oscope. If you put a 9vdc battery on the Oscope chan#1 and use the external trigger input on the Ocope and apply a 1Khz sinewaveform it will not draw a 9v Sinewaveform at 1Khz.
@@billwilliams6338 There is a ramp generator that creates the horizontal sweep for internally triggered signals, triggering based on the input waveform . There level detect circuit will trigger the start of the ramp when the input voltage is higher than the trigger voltage. If your input waveform is periodic, then you will see a stable display. If you provide a constant voltage on the vertical input and use an external trigger signal, as you are suggesting, then you will get a horizontal line at your applied voltage that is represented by a beam that sweeps back and forth across the CRT at 1Khz ( your input trigger period gives the frequency and the fact that it is a sine wave means it is not a ramp but an oscillation back and forth). But that will just look like a horizontal line unless your sweep speed ( input trigger waveform frequency ) is slow enough to see with the eye.
It would be helpful if your hand wasn't in front of the camera while probing the bad cap. Also, the cap you appear to be probing while your hands ate in front of the camera is not in the hi voltage section as you claimed earlier. Please explain.
I realize that I did not show the removal and replacement of the cap. My bad, but it is the one that I was pointing at when I took out the power transistor. I hoped that the flash of the component map together with the schematic would be enough of a clue to what to replace.....
C1419 is the suspect cap. I have the same problem on the same scope and am fixing it right now. In mine C1419 is a 47uf 25volt tantalum. I understand replacing the tantalum with an electrolytic but I don't understand why you used a 100uf 50volt?
The value is not too critical. It is what i had on hand.
Where are the FIX-ME Tektronix groups? Thanks for your video.
groups.io/g/TekScopes
12:30 Very Important: 1970's components must be tested with 1970's meter. For compatibility. :-)
yes but the probe aren't from the same year :o I can't explain how that's possible.
Hi, have the same problem, and with this video have the same results, but the protect fuse is open in a little time and lost again the trace.... the answer is.. where I search the troubleshooting flowchart that you use?
bama.edebris.com/manuals/tek/465/
www.tek.com/support/faqs/where-can-i-find-manuals-old-tektronix-oscilloscopes
w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/465#Manuals
@@grtyvr Thank you for the information
I just got one of these off ebay for oscilloscope music .. nothing happened or lit up when I turned it on and gave me an electric shock off the casing when I leant over to unplug it!
Careful. It sounds like there might be a filter cap that has failed short. Filter caps go between a rail voltage and ground and are there to provide a frequency dependent short to ground. If they fail open then no big deal, but if they fail short, then you have a chassis at the same potential as the power rail that they are connected to. I would start checking there.
@@grtyvr Thanks but it turned out I'd been sent a plug with only live wired in .. so now I'll always be checking the plug on posted used electronics before powering them on
You couldn't see it when you plugged it in(for the first time)..but the power indicator light flashed very quickly, then it out.
These specific scopes don't have power indicator lights. That is actually a low line voltage indicator to warn the user that the AC input voltage was too low for the scope to operate reliably and within spec. If you very closely at 3:36 you can just see the red colored word "line" just right of the light. It is also used to warn the user of an incorrect line input voltage setting. If you have it set to 230V instead of 115V that light will light up.
Fun video
Why are you replacing the cap marked 47uf with a 100uf?
It is a filter cap so the value is not too critical but the voltage is.
Complete electro-NOOB here. Thanks for this great repair video. Just one question tho: at 13:09 what are you probing, exactly? Seems like you have the red test lead on a ground, but then you have the black lead on one, of the fuse holder terminals? But you call it a cap?! I can't tell, your hand got in the way. Please clarify for me, I’m trying to learn. Cheers!
At around the 11 minute mark I take a look at the schematic. The capacitor I am interested in lies between ground and +15 so I am probing at where one would expect to see +15v and ground to look for a short. And indeed there is a short so I suspect that tantalum cap has failed short.
Thank you for replying. Ok, but you are poking the test leads at the opposite end of the scope [not around the cap in question or the suspicious transistor] and the DMM is reading Over Limit, and you say 15 volts shouldn't be here? Please remember, I'm a complete NOOB.
Look at the schematic. You will see capacitor 1419 has one terminal connected to ground and the other terminal is connected to the fuse that is inline with the 15v rail. So electrically it is just like probing both legs of the cap.
@@grtyvr Is the scope turned off, your DMM reads OL and you call that 15 volts?
@@maxwarfield6699 Yes. It is off. Were there no short to ground then there would be some resistance reading, so the conclusion is a short to ground.
That fluke takes me back to 1980
Excellent video. Great job!
I have a digital Tek TDS1002B since 2008 and I'm happy with it. Recently I run into the opportunity of buying one of these used Tek 465 (not the B version) for $150. Is it worth buying and having it nowadays?
there's something that's not right? the oscilloscope perhaps, great vid, thanks
A 47uf tantulum capacitor must be replaced...BUT NOT with a (cheaper ) 100uf electrolytic . My guess : the function of this capacitor is to insure that high frequency spikes created by the power transistor oscillator is attenuated from the +15 unregulated supply voltage. An 100f electrolytic does is in adequate to remove these types of side effects .
Can you make a video on Calibrating a 465B and how to trace a signal ? That would be cool.
conjuring, great suggestions. Thanks. Will add that to the list.
Can I ask you how much you payed. I'm in the market for one. Thank you
If you are patient you can probably find a dead one for less than $60 on ebay. Then there is the shipping to consider. I searched for the lowest shipping costs first.
grtyvr thanks I found a tektronix 454. It works well.
I got a 465m locally for $55. If you see one, make an offer. Sometimes sellers are generous
13:20 What capacitor are you replacing/testing
C1419 which is on board A9 - Interface board in location A1 and on schematic CRT Circuit . It is a filter cap on the unregulated 15V input to the CRT transformer.
Nice
Greetings my friend, very good video I congratulate you, I have this same team, with the problem that does not do horizontal, that is, does not put the horizontal line, if you put the vertical, you could tell me what is the cause of this failure, Thank you the Dominican Republic. I'm Marcos Lopez a Hug
Hi Marcos, I have not taken a good look at the horizontal circuit of the 465. However there is a good set of troubleshooting flowcharts in the manual that I linked to. Also, the yahoo group has been replaced with groups.io/g/TekScopes/messages. There are lots of very smart folks there with years of experience that can probably help.
First thing I'd do on that is completely recap it.
That is on the "list of things to re-cap".
Nice..
please what's the name of this capacitor ? thank you
C1419 if memory serves.
Yeah. 10:52 in the video.
Man I love these videos
i didnt need one but there awsome :)
8:37 could a 1:10 voltage divider be used here?
I suppose that it could, or a 100:1 for that matter. But I am a chicken around high voltage.
@@grtyvr ME TO!! But maybe a closet box with some sort of long insulated probes? :-)
I have no experience with high voltages so i don't even know where to begin in how to protect myself from myself other than to just leave well enough alone.
winner winner chicken dinner
Stick you tongue on it see if you get a tingle... lol Very brave using test leads with that much exposed conductor of the test lead
+2E0FCZ, some safer test leads are on the nice to have list. I hope I find some soon.
I love this, thank you. I just bought a 465 very cheaply. No beam as well. I've blown the same fuse, and I'm trying to diagnose it at the moment. I love that you're using a Fluke 8060A, as am I. It's a great meter, but continuity mode is a little trigger happy when capacitors are charging up, like you say! This was a just a little video to chronicle the first problem I've looked at, which is that my 110V regulated supply is unhappy! th-cam.com/video/bl3ZO4Af0g8/w-d-xo.html
26 /11/19 i have the same fluke 8060 : )
I love that meter. I use it more than my bench meters.
@@grtyvr yeha me too !! i love it too !!
@@grtyvr by the way i have a topward 7045 oscilloscope with noise on the trace even with the levers on gnd , some idea to help ; ? )
Just leave the cap out and turn it on...if it dont blow the fuse I would say it not the cap.
Just can't believe plugging something into the wall and turning it on before running basic checks.
In my shop it would be disassembled, blown out, cleaned, dry and moist, lubricated (mechanical parts) and every test a multimeter can do pre-power.
I had a 465, but as much as I loved the panel layout, I could not find a use for it in my shop, and of course even less on the road, so away it went.
I am as much a vintage lover as anyone here, but noise in oscilloscope traces warms my heart about as much as drift in a vintage autopilot when I am IMC.
Yes, that is the correct way to do it.
Want to sell it?
Nope.
go to ebay my friend....
Don't watch at 4:10 using earphone..
very good :)
Can you gift me an oscilloscope please. I'm trying to get one but they are just so expensive here in Vietnam (2x of USA). Rediculous.
For the life of me i cannot find C1419
it is at the back left. timestamp 11:18 or so....
"charge pump"??? WTF is that?
and long nose pliers are NOT a wrench.
mc3lizard en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charge_pump