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Good thing they are cheap!

Similar. However the T12 cartridges do not have the shoulder in the same place to limit how far they can be inserted and prevent them from being removed too easily.

That would not be good!

Good information. Maybe I'll take this one apart to see how it's made.

Generally it's 220v actually (but generally if you don't have an European plug you know the product is bottom of the barrel quality 😹

YES, absolutely! I forgot to mention that.

Thanks for the "tip" on tips Pat!

@@uni-byte You're welcome. I tried to limit how many times I said tip but failed miserably. Lol

@@percaine LOL!

Cool! How do you turn on the pump or is it always running?

I have plans to do that. Most of the setups I have seen, both diy and store bought, have a trigger to activate the vacuum once the solder has melted. I was planning on using a foot switch.

@@mikebond6328 I have a vacuum gun right now but the air flow is not great and it takes a second or two to get going. I was thinking of using a PIG (Pressurized Inert Gas) cylinder to hold a low pressure charge, then use a pneumatic valve to trigger the suction. Overkill?

@@uni-byte A momentary swith on the desoldering iron controlling mosfet gate. I have imgur link of my build but I think youtube deleted my replies whenever I added it

@@uni-byte Vacuum gun? Like a vacuum ejector/deductor/venturi? I've seen that Metcal use this type of device to generate vacuum. I don't think that's overkill

Yes, it certainly can be. We've had it as low as -40°, and that's the same in °F and °C. You can hear the trees splitting open like shotguns going off.

@uni-byte really is getting that cold in Canada?

It can where I am, but not often. Usually -30°C is about as low as it goes. Right now overnight we are running about -5°C, but this year is unseasonably warm. My lab is in my basement so does not get very warm at all. These days maybe 15°C after it warms up a bit.

@uni-byte the weather is dry or wet because in some countries where the weather is wet just -3° you feel it really cold

@@SymbolTech21 Yeah, you feel the cold more when it humid and it is humid around here right now.

Investigation underway..

@@uni-byte :)

They are not completely proprietary. The SH72/T85/T65 tips will fit and work. They are a little longer than the FNIRSI ones, so you can't level them in if you put the cap back on. For me that's not an issue as I never put the cap back on. My HS-01 irons are in their stands all the time.

@uni-byte Maybe I'll take another look. I wanted it for installing heat inserts on 3d prints. I have a 40w cheapy soldering iron, but it sits there and cooks the tips if I don't unplug it. My brass adapters don't look very brass anymore, but much darker.

I'm not going to fix the cable as you say. Not worth it. FNIRSI sent me a new one anyway. I did fix the iron. See my video #0230 for that. I have not had a chance to use the HS-02, but you are right, the shaft of teh tips loos a lot more delicate. They do have more metal on teh tip end though, so might have more heat stored there and may respond better for heavier thermal loads. I may get one to find out.

I will!

Something to consider for sure. Also, the switch could have a "Off" position to increase battery life. These draw some current all the time. Not much, but some.

@@uni-byte yes that is a very smart idea indeed. and when adding a switch anyway, there is little reason to not add it.

I have to disagree with some of this - so, some rebuttal to the clarifications: Triggers - ALL 'scopes must have a trigger function. Whether you have access to it or not is a different matter, but there must be something to determine the start of a sweep whether that is some fixed rate or some fixed voltage. "Whenever" just wouldn't cut it. All general purpose electronic scopes since about the 1950s do have access to the adjust trigger function. I don't think we are talking about cardiac monitors here. Anything older than that is more a museum piece than a useful tool for working in electronics these days. Model # - Okay. You're right.👍 Marking - Yeah, I did mention volts/division and explained this one was in volts/cm (see @5:59). You must have missed that. Parallax error - I think you're nit-picking here a little. The gist of what I was saying was certainly not lost. Getting my eyes at camera level either involved my head in the way, or the camera in my way. Nether situation very conducive to making the video. Did you get up on the wrong side of the bed today?🤣

@uni-byte , well, a noobie might be confused by your narration not matching what you are pointing at on the scope screen, due to the parallax. I am sorry YOU don't recognize this when it is pointed out to you. I have taught scopes in high school and college, and have often seen such things confused the students. Since your video purports to be a beginner's introduction to scopes, I would hope you would be more savvy in this regard. But then, you reveal yourself to be a non-expert when you re-assert that ALL scopes have a Trigger function. Any real expert would know you are wrong about this. Early scopes simply had a free-running sweep that was not in any way related to triggering. And there are in fact some kinds of scopes that only operate in X-Y mode and thus would not benefit from triggering and don't have that circuitry.

@uni-byte and by the way, your "did you get up on the wrong side of bed" comment is both rude and deliberately insulting, when my original comment was presented in a polite, constructive manner.

​@@youtuuba The parallax was off by less than 10% of a division and that narration would have been appropriate regardless of the position of the trace. 4cm is 4cm regardless of where you start, is it not? Would anyone viewing his get the message completely wrong? Your "free-running" scope is triggering from a time base and as I said, a museum piece. Your X-Y only scope is NOT a general purpose scope for electronics use. And sorry about your misconstruing my reply a rude. I was not trying to be rude, hence the cute little emoji's. My intent was to be light-hearted. I hope you have a better day ahead.

@uni-byte , you still miss my point about clarity. You don't understand how easily noodles get confused over little details. As for the triggering, you are still mistaken. Free running sweep scopes don't trigger off of anything, and so maybe you might consider studying some old scope circuits; their time base is simply a free-running oscillator. No triggering. As for no insult intended, little cartoon symbols can just as easily mean you think your insulting tone is funny. But I guess you can't help yourself because you made the same kind of comment now.

I've not seen that very much. For me it rarely happens and then only when that vendor is not longer carrying the product.

Nice! It feels good to do mods that make things better for how you use them.

@@uni-byte in the future i will use an old phone charger.instead of the battery..like nokia 3310...they are 3.7v chargers.... i prefer a charger over the battery. i havent done it yet because this battery lasts very long

Thank you, I agree.

Thanks for all the information!

I might try something like that, thanks.

What horrible sound? The fans? In this video we are stress testing the load to it's limits, such that fans are running at a fairly high level throughout. How else would you suggest that be done?

@@uni-bytethere’s a high pitch squeal in the audio, I think he’s talking about.

@@Johadart YEs, also from the fans. I need to adjust the PWM frequency.

@ oh ok thanks for letting me know

@@Johadart No worries. I would have put it at the beginning of the video except I can't hear it - old damaged ears 😞

The whine might have been something else I had on in the lab. Or it could be the the PWM frequency is too low. I'd never hear any high-pitched whines with my ancient ears - LOL! Did you hear the same whine during the basic functional checks in Part 2?

@@uni-byte no I didn't that's weird cos my ears are shot from years of sticking my teenage head into speakers at live gigs !

I am definitely able to hear it from the start, I do not remember it in the last video. Not sure what it is or what range.

@@tinkrelectronic Thats two then !

@@andymouse I'm not 100% sure, but what I was able to pull maybe 9.8 or 9.6 ish Khz

I'll be sure to put it up, or add the files to the next video, which might be a better idea as there are 4 PCBs in this build. Don't know how I'd get that to work as a single project on PCBWay.

Please excuse me Sir but did you experience a high pitch whine during the video at all ?

@@andymouse no I did not

@@kenkostan :)

Sample code for thermistors and required theory is in the documents linked in the description. But if you got to the follow-up video for this one (0214) you will see one version of the code @3:37 that provides 4 steps of fan speed. Also, I hope to release a video tomorrow (or the next day) that will have code specific to the fan controller for a DC load application that supports 40 steps of fan speed.

LOL! Not the mouse actually, but the OBS software I use to capture does not display sub-windows or drop-downs.

It might be a good idea to translate before posting. That way, since YT is a predominantly English forum, likely only one person has to translate, not everyone that views your post. Yes, this scope ground can be connoted to the network ground. It will then be referenced to ground. The scope itself does not have to be a grounded instrument for this to work.

👍

You want to make a metal detector out of this? I don't quite understand.

@@uni-byte i want make longrange gold detector..help me sir

@@Lk-Snow1 Everybody would like a long range gold detector. While you would certainly need a tunable oscillator to make high sensitivity and high discrimination metal detector, you will need a lot more than just the oscillator. I cannot cover that in the comments section of TH-cam. Good metal detectors are not cheap - for a host of reasons.

@@uni-byte Thank you🙏

@@uni-byte someone make gold detector use dds function generator or other frequency generator. i don't know is it fake or true

LOL! We can only hope.

Yes, of course, but why 1, 2, 5 Why not 1, 3, 6? They are nice multiples of 3.

That's an XJW01. It's pretty good and can test a 3 different frequencies. Far better with capacitors and inductors than the little transistor testers. I can't put a lot here but if you google "XJW01 LCR Bridge Manual" you can read the user manual and get all the information. You can get them for about $75 USD on AliExpress.

Can you do a firmware upload? Also, try just plugging it in to a 65W or better supply, wait a few seconds, then quickly press the button toward the tip. See if it heats up. IF you can do a firmware update and/or get it to heat up, it may just be a bad solder joint on the display. Otherwise I'd say it the processor. Again, it could just be a bad solder joint on the processor and re-flowing the all the pins might fix it (us A LOT of flux doing this - Like Louis Rossman!).

@@uni-byte Yeah, seems to be the display. It updates and it heats up. But i had to press more than once, so maybe it didnt detect the press XD. Is it posible to find replacements for the screen?

@@gamerz181 I can't think of where you would get the display. You might try contacting FNIRSI, but it may just need a solder joint or two touched up where the ribbon cable meets the PCB.

Go see the video where I fix this one. You should be able to get a really good sin wave up to 400kHz.

@uni-byte ah I don't have a need for that :) tbh for now I bought it for one project for university where I need as slow sin as possible, and for private projects it's one of those things that better to have and not need than need and not have :)

Could you be more specific? Do mean the part numbers? They are teh part identification numbers assigned by the original manufacturer.

@uni-byte it looks like I'm confused with another channel, or something I'm not sure like the numbers for the mail bag where like 14 50 30 no order 😅

LOL!

I'll have to keep my eye out for them. Thanks for the comment!

Glad you liked it! :-)

You might just be right. I tried one today and it worked fine, but it was not a very challenging spudg. I See now the genuine iSesamo tools use a blue color scheme. I just ordered a set from Amazon. I'll do an update when I get them.

All true.

When you order of AliExpress always either look for products that have "Choice Free shipping over $10 or those "Buy 3 for free shipping" deal. Of course, if you buying directly from a big company like Zeeweii or FNIRSI and go to their factory stores, they will ship products properly too.

I’ve had a couple packages show up 6 months late. In both cases the packages were very small and I figure they got stuck in a crack somewhere and made a couple trips around the world before they made it to me.

@@mikebond6328 I'm usually not that lucky. Might have something to do with Canada Post. You may have an issue with USPS, but just be thankful they are not Canada Post. IF they don't arrive within 60 days, they are not going to arrive. That's why I try to buy things that are shipped by AliExpress themselves. Either that or by big name companies.

I guess you could look at it that way, but it really is a rounded off logarithmic progression.

@uni-byte Good thing they didn't decide to use three intermediate steps! Heh 2 3 6 10 would be very frustrating!

@@ericwazhung Agreed. 1, 2, 5 is the sweet spot.

No, capacitance and diodes are not covered by the auto mode. I don't think many DMMs can do that, especially in circuit.

In my case the fault was with the little buck converter near the USB connector. I'll leave a link to the repair in the decryption above in case you are interested. The chip marked CA2C1S is actually an AON7409 MOSFET if you can find one. They are listed as obsolete but there is a replacement part, the AONR21357. They are about $1.25 at DigiKey.

Thank!

Hey! I just got the darn thing working again! (LOL) Actually you can run it up to 24V at which point it's pushing up to 3.75 amps through the main MOSFET and the cartridge. The MOSFET might take a bit more, but I think the cartridge would die early. At 30V you'd be asking that heating element to swallow 140W!!

@ well now that you know how to take it apart, there is nothing stopping you lol If I remember correctly I think I recently saw a USB soldering iron that stated a maximum input of 28V for the JBC C245 type cartridges. Going that high with a genuine cartridge having a 2.5 Ohm heater would result with at least 250W (accounting for loses and heater resistance increase) So JBC HDE performance in a pen shaped iron.. plus a 300W+ power supply :)

@@antonmilosevic That'd be more like a welding iron! LOL

@@uni-byte brazing copper/brass pipes was never easier :D

Same here hahaha Yeah, he definitely forgot it, you can clearly see on the reassembly now 3:16

Good eye guys! Left out on purpose. I have some tantalums coming that are physically 1/3 the size and should provide better performance. It only takes a few seconds to pull apart and re-assemble.

Yes, it is!

You cannot set a trigger based on pulse width like some much more costly scopes, but you would not need to for your purposes. It will trigger on the rising or falling edge of a pulse.

Interesting.