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Wow! Amazing price! 👍👍

Yes, it seems you are missing something. With two single gang pots in series the effectiveness of the "fine" control changes as the "coarse" control is changed. With the dual gang "fine" as I show here, if for example you set up the "fine" to give you 5% of full scale, it will always give you 5% of full scale regardless of where the "coarse" is set.

In video #0209 (MAILBAG #28) you will find a link to it in the description. YT will not let me place external links in the comments section.

@@uni-byte found it. Many thanks.

Yes, but it was more than 12 years ago now. I still have a pile of them around but really don't do a lot of MCU work anymore and if I do (like here) I usually use a PICAXE (I have even more of them!)

I would like to see that test too !

Taping the cavity shut promotes more laminar flow and hence less resistance due to turbulence. Opening it up should cause turbulence and actually reduce the airflow. I can try it in the next video to see what happens.

fans do not blow directed air perpendicular to motor axle, instead they push it outwards diagonally in all directions. It concentrates all air pressure near the blades with very little flow reaching any meaningful distance away from fan's plane. Air flow has to be focused and this channel is designed for that. Heatsink like that is probably meant to be put with a cutout to PCB, which also makes sense in terms of material and weight optimizations.

@@Mr.Leeroy Good point. Yes, a non-boxed (open blade) fan does does push air out like you say. However these are box fans. 50% of their depth is after the fan blade and amounts to an exit duct duct which will reduce the effect you're talking about by a little a bit. Your guess as to how it is designed to mount is probably correct. I chose this way for easier access to the mounting hardware but I guess I could have used self tapping screws.

@@uni-byte No, I'm talking about this type of fan you have in the video. They really are that inefficient; shroud around the blades is too short to be effective without direct contact to other means of flow direction control (usually heatsink fins).

Add another vote for "a look at the code and perhaps a walk thru (pretty please) at some point."

@@cougar1861 :)

I'll see if I can fit it in. It is really simple code.

@@uni-byte :)

I see what you did there :)

LOL! Thanks, it is!

I have not had my hands on one, but the 4-wire Ohms mode and the form factor alone are worth the extra few dollars. You can actually stack stuff on this, but not on the XDM1041 so it makes better use of your shelf space. The front accessible fuse is also a BIG plus.

It comes with the common 100MHz 6100 series Chinese probes that are rated at 16pf for 10x range. Pretty normal specs for 100MHz probes.

@@uni-byte I'm interested in the input capacitance of the oscilloscope itself inside it.

@@SergeySS-z4l It measures at 30pF, which again is typical for a scope of this speed. Why is this important to you? Even if you are using it directly you will be using a coaxial cable and the DUT will see that, not the scope. Not sure I understand the reason for the question.

​@@uni-byte I want to make a probe from a special cable 1m=10pF, but if I make it 50cm, it will be 5pF + 30pF oscilloscope = 35pF.

@@SergeySS-z4l I'm pretty sure that's not how it works. The coax will have an characteristic impedance of 50 ohms, so even if the DUT did see the 30pF your roll off would begin at 106MHz - so It's still not an issue. Even if you go to a $5000 600MHz scope you will still have 17pF - so 22pF with your reckoning. But this is not how it works. If you build a Zo probe, you will need to use it with a 50Ω pass-through load as this scope does not have a 50Ω input mode. Your DUT will not see the capacitance of the scope input, it will see the complex impedance of the Zo probe.

Sounds like a winner!

Cool! Please let us know what you think of it. (Don't compare it to something that costs $2000 like Dave, compare it to other $12 thingys..)

Will do. What was the charger with the display you were using? Looked pretty cool. Do you have a link for it at all?

@@RuthlessMojo It's not a charger as such. it's a FNIRSI FNB48S USB Meter. I put a link to it in the description to this video (YT do not like external links in the comments for some reason).

Just cheeked and it's still showing $16.68 CAD for the basic black kit (like mine).

@@uni-byte That's crazy. I'm still getting $24.65 US. I ran all the options shown. I thought, like you, that was a bargain as you had shown. Thanks.

Thanks, will do! I plan to use it in my upstairs mini-lab for the next little while. I might also use it to build a project in the next couple of days.

Thamks!

Part 2? Did I mention a part 2? I did use them in several projects.

Okay maybe I understand it wrong, in wich video did you use the emi filter again? Thx

@@BigDaddyBarco If you go to my channel page and scroll down to "Created Playlists" you see a play list called "Wall-Wart Eliminator". It's a 3-part series about a project where I used one of these. The 3 videos are 0090, 0091, and 0093.

Give me a day or so to check and I'll get back. Thanks for the question and the view

Hi, 8-bits, no parity and 9600 baud seems to work for me.

@@uni-byte Hi, thank you for getting back to me. I realised that I needed to get a dedicated RS232 to USB adapter cable and everything worked like a charm (I can confirm your settings). But now I’m puzzled, shouldn’t it also work with a normal USB to Serial adapter (those 2$ cheap-o ones from AliExpress)? I used the exact same settings and I only get gibberish with them. The new one I bought (Sabrent brand, having a FTDI chip inside) is also basically just a USB to Serial adapter with a different connetor. Or am I worng here?

@@antonmilosevic I too am using an FTDI unit. I also use CP Technologies (CP2102, CP2103). With out having you defective device it's hard for me to say. It may not be adjusting to the baud rate properly. Did you make sure it's set up for no parity? What did you computer recognize the chip as?

@@uni-byte Hi, this topic really doesn't let me sleep properly at nigt. The CP2102 USB to TTL Module just won't work. I set it up exactly the same as the more expensive Sabrent RS232 to USB cable with the FTDI chip. I even looked with the oscilloscope and the signal coming out from the GPSDO is a normal 5V signal. Any more ideas why the CP2102 doesn't work with this GPSDO? It works normally when looking at other devices tho.

None at all.

@@uni-byte great

It's in the pinned comment. " It's not critical as long as you get all 3 - 1, 2 and 3. In my case I attached my wires to pins 11, 12 and 14 of the ZIF socket."

@@uni-byte Thank you

Yes.

Agreed!

Thank you very much!

You are on the right track. This project took some interesting turns. Finally got it working very nicely but needed to make some component value changes and a reduction in specifications and a lower transformer voltage. BE sure to watch all the videos. 👍

👍👍

Agreed.

Good information. Thanks for the contribution.

Sorry to hear that. My 3 seem to work fine. Maybe I got lucky.

@@uni-byte Mine was super laggy.

@@GWorxOz That would drive me nuts.

"Unifying" was the name they gave to the equipment that could connect multiple devices which could also be connected to multiple computers. Just a branding thing. Not sure they call it that any more.

That was pretty much the straw, wasn't it?

While corners are constantly cut by everyone, and high-end professional company names are being licensed or sold to companies producing crap, (Garrard,) or just branched off for that purpose, (HP, GE,) seeing a 1-chip solution mouse on a phenolic PCB immediately set off alarms in my mental 'fake-junk' detection circuit. Although the visible-light LED instead of an IR device was a more than big enough clue as far as I was concerned. (I'm guessing that means the detector is susceptible to visible light false triggering.) Finally, the incompatible wireless connection made it clear that those mice weren't Logitech 185's. Just for fun you could contact Logitech about them, but I don't suppose you have anything to gain by doing that.

@@johnwest7993 Yeah, the clues added up quickly.

"Logi" is the brand name they created for lower end stuff. The M185 used to be branded Logitech, but has now been put into the "Logi" brand. They save "Logitech" for the fancy stuff now.

@@uni-byte I suppose between the two headsets, 1 webcam and 1 mouse all being logi means I'm not that fancy LOL

@@tinkrelectronic Honestly, I don't know. I got that from their description of their latest software and what it works with. They seem to have other branding beyond logi and logitech these days too. The M705, M510 and M720 mice are branded "logitech" as are the "G" series ($200 + mice!!!) and others. And that's just the mice.

@@uni-byte I did look into it a little more, seems like it's been a wishy washy "rebrand" of sorts. And yeah, I cannot believe the cost of some of their items. Crazy and I thought $40 cad for a mouse seemed high enough.

@@tinkrelectronic I think it's an extension of the "audiofool" mindset. Some gamers will spend anything to drink "extra strength" cool-aid.

Some are. The Microsoft ones are pretty cheap.

LOL!

LOL, good one.

I'm in Canada too. When I bought mine it was $5.71 CDN. Prices on ALiExpress change like the wind.

I put it in a laptop I use for such thing. It gets an OS reinstall frequently. They will be used on oscilloscopes so little fear of them having created malware that can infect their OS.

it would be incredibly dumb to put malware into counterfeight item replicating 1:1 very big company product

Yeah, that's my feeling too.

@@uni-byte it is not a feeling when software from original source does not recognize the product. But to be sure you have to download from specific model page, not just generic section (I know logitech drivers are unified, but still). And you don't even have to test since you opened it up, PCB is just bottom quality, if logitech starts to reduce costs down to theese levels while still selling at their premium prices, it would catch a lot of attention quick, damaging brand reputation, they can't afford such regression.

@@Mr.Leeroy That wasn't driver software, it was software pairing receivers with (mice, keybd, etc..) Logitech only have two such applications. Thanks for your comment!

@@uni-byte it is driver by definition, as it provides interactive link with their USB hardware, but I got what you mean. Still all the applicable software is always on each model's "support"/"download" page

I think that Hakko is bit overpriced for what you get.

@@uni-byte I paid $56 CAD and got no tips with it. Now just looking for a good solder sucker recommendation, I bought a cheap kit with wick but it wasn't even sucking any solder.

@@izhanshafiq324 That's a really good price for that iron. Google "engineer solder sucker". I have one of those and I love it. I also have the AliExpress copy of it and it works just as well. If you go back to my Mailbag #29 video (Uni-Byte 0215) I show it there and there is a link to it.

The Bode plot is included but the SG is licensed. I think it can control and external SG without the license though, but could be wrong on that. However, that said it can be hacked in a few seconds. Details are on the EEVBlog forum.

@@uni-byte You mean that the internal SG can be hacked to works?

@@michelgauvin2473 Yes.

👍

Thanks. Born of necessity, but I think I'll keep it going.

I'm not aware of any way. It would be nice feature though.

It seem to be the consensus, although you'd not get that impression reading some of the "suggestions" on the forums out there. You are right about the charge pumps, especially those MAX680s. I wonder if the MAX681 is as noisy?

Yep, same as my experience here.

Yes, you are right, it took very little time to set up and have a look. It's good good course of action.

I know what you mean!

Who'd've thunk it?

@@uni-byte :)

Cool idea. Did it work well?

@@uni-byte I first tried cross wiring a brake relay to the remaining charge on the Capacitor vgave it a reverse pull. That was hard on the commutation brushes but it stopped the motor quick . I changed that to a simple short through N.C. contacts. 1 /4 turn stop but hard on brushes. Used a 7805 with a 2 ohm resistor as a constant current 2.5 amp regulator,and a 48 ohm resistor in parallel. The motor was 24 voltdc rated 3 amps. The motor stopped little over 2/3 of a turn. The motor drove a score cam motor which synced up switches. It had to land on a position within 2 * degree. That gave it a constant brake . It had a gearbox of 76 to 1 so it actually worked.

@@allanpatterson7653 Very nice!

The temperature threshold will need a power recycle to clear it. I want it that way on purpose so that I have a chance to clear/investigate what caused it. However, the whole thing is really an experiment. If I get to 100W that'd be golden, but 75W will more than meet my needs. To your last question, yes, bulkiness is an issue as are long leads going to the MOSFET. The former because I have a cabinet in mind to meet the form factor I want and the latter to prevent instability. They both kind of play hand in hand for this particular build although almost everything would definitely be easier to accomplish if I had more space. Maybe for version II, if I need it.

I personally don't have a TC-2 so cannot give an answer on that. Maybe someone else can chine in.