Chevrolet Traverse DTC Code U0100, U0073, U0121, U0140 ECM PCM diagnosis and possible fix
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2022
- This video is "a little rough" in terms of editing. My wife described this issue but this is the first time I witnessed it for myself so I busted out my phone and started recording. I am really uploading this to TH-cam so I can point to it from a Traverse trouble-shooting forum to help others with this issue. I decided not to edit anything so you could see and experience each step I took.
BACKGROUND INFO ON PROBLEM
2017 Traverse LS AWD 70,000 miles
Wife was driving under normal conditions, dry, fair weather (75 degrees). She described the gauges on the dash started pinning all the way to the max and back down again (like the car was starting). She was climbing a hill so she noticed right away the gas pedal had no reaction (but she isn't sure if the engine shut off). Check-engine light came on. HUD message, "Stabilitrac Disabled". This only lasted about 3 -5 seconds and then everything went back to normal and she was able to continue driving without pulling over...but the check-engine light was still on so obviously some DTCs were triggered...and boy is it a list!
U0100 - Lost communication with Engine Control Module (ECM)
P0575 - Cruise Control switch signal message counter incorrect
P0700 - Transmission Control Module (TCM) Requested MIL illumination (Malfunction Indicator Lamp)
U0073 - Control Module Communication Bus A Off
U0121 - Lost Communication with Electronic Brake Control Module (ECM)
U0140 - Lost Communication with Body Control module (BCM) - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I am in the process of fixing this same issue. Dash went crazy then the guage needles wouldn't move from 0, and vehicle would barely run when it did start which was very rare. My OBD2 scan tool would power up but not connect to the cars network. I finally found that the abs module was causing the normal (2.5v) volts on the Canbus network at OBD2 connector pins 6 or 14 when testing to ground was over 8 volts. This in turn caused all kinds of this weird crap. As soon as i unplugged the abs module under the vehicle, near the driver's side frame rail, the vehicle would start and the instrument cluster and nav display would act normal. This took me a serious day to figure this out. This abs module had part of a plastic shield missing that is supposed to deflect water and crap away from it.
Hope this helps someone.
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I have a 2012 Buick regal and I’m fairly certain this is the same exact thing that’s going on. Suspension to ABS lights to communication bus, my idea is I think the motor mounts not being replaced by the previous owner caused the engine to fray a wire, or disconnect. Causing this issue. My wonder is if it is considered a recall.
The same thing keeps happening to my 2010 TRAVERSE. Tract keeps coming on. The funny thing is, whenever it comes on, I would touch the brake switch, and it would go away and then come back after I start driving. So, I'm going to do an electrical test on the brake switch connection, also I will check the connection on the ECM also. Thanks for the video.
At this point I think the root cause of my issue is the wiring harness is not secured. It’s hanging with all of its weight on the bottom “gray” plug that goes into the ECM. Over time, I can see how that weight is probably slightly deforming the plug. Now that I’ve supported it “zip tied” it so the weight is supported, haven’t had the issue for now at least two days. This issue was way more frequent than that so I think I’m on to something. For $175, I still have a new pre-programmed ECM/PCM on the way just in case.
I have a 08 chevy hhr doing the same but engine seems to go into limp mode.
My 2016 traverse does the same. Still happening sadly 😢
I have a 2011 cts Cadillac have similar issue but mine is when I turn left on the normal speed, the dashboard lights goes off-on and the ABS light comes on including traction control, the minute I turn the steering wheel straight it’s all normal!
I got the same codes as yours.
Now I got a clue about the issue, but don’t know where that plug is located ?
Please help me how to find it
Two things: 1) If this is happening when you turn the wheel, I would focus on a broken wheel speed sensor wire. On each tire/wheel knuckle assembly you’ll see a single wire leading to the hub of each wheel. You likely have a wire that’s gone brittle and broken inside the jacket. The wheel speed sensor could need replacing as well. None of this is complicated work. But if you can get your codes pulled, they should tell you which wheel speed sensor is the issue (right front or left front). This is just a guess since you mentioned it only happens when you turn the wheel.
2) If this does have something to do with the the PCM, on my vehicle it’s attached to the radiator (between the engine and radiator). Just look for a module that has som fairly large plugs with lots of wires going to it. That’s likely your ECM/PCM.
@@pattywaktdiy4175 yesss you’re right, I checked today and turns out the rear left wheel speed sensor is broken.
I’m replacing it tomorrow by God’s will.
Thank you man
I have the same problem with my Chevrolet Tahoe 2007 and I have the U0073 code Do you think the problem is with the computer of the transmission in the hood I really appreciate your help
It's so hard to tell. I don't have any experience with this code other than what I show in the video. I will say, mine was due to a loose connection of the bottom plug that goes into the ECM. Since I secured that connection, I haven't had an issue again.
2010 Chevy Malibu owner here! I'm experiencing the same problem that's you have on your hands. Chevy can't manufacture cars at all
I have exactly the same problem with a Buick Lacrosse, the ECM and BCM have already been changed, it still has the same fault. were you able to solve it?
Yes. I got some heavy-duty zip ties and I secured the harness so the full weight of the wires was not pulling down on the connections going into the ECU. I haven't had a problem since...that was over a year and many miles ago.
The wiring harness is actually pretty "heavy" when you consider prolonged stress pulling down on those connections.
I have no doubt that over time with stress like this, wires could break internally and you wouldn't know unless you tested each and every wire. If wires are broken internally, you might have intermittent failures and would be so hard to detect! I'm just using my imagination as to what possible issues could contribute to these symptoms. If you have already replaced the ECU, and you are sure the connectors are in good shape, I would consider an internally broken wire as the culprit. Good luck!
looks like your ECU is faulty, when you pull on connector your also flexing the ECU
My 13 traverse had all the same lights, split speed sensor and rear differential is probably empty of gear oil. Junk cars, every single one has all of these problems. None stop fixing!!!!
It's a shame what low quality GM has allowed on the Traverse. This vehicle could be a market dominator...but it's got a terrible reputation. I am constantly fixing something on my 2017 that's beyond normal maintenance. A missed opportunity for GM. A recent example...Just this week my wife informed me the passenger window won't roll down. I've dealt with much worse!
Have this code for Chevy 2017
Did this help? I feel like it's pointing me in the right direction. I just need to pinpoint the problem
did u ever fix the issue
Yes, in my case it was a “loose” connection plug going into the ECU. The root cause is that a zip tie broke that supported the weight of the wiring harness. Without that zip tie the full weight of the harness was “pulling down” on the very bottom plug of the ECU. Now that I have that weight supported, I haven’t seen this problem again since…now about a month later.
@@pattywaktdiy4175and now? it’s gone for good?
@@azzz8083 yes it’s fixed. I have not seen any of these codes again since I posted this video. I still own the car and have put another 10k miles on it.
@pattywaktdiy4175 how did you fix it?
@@tatahkimyong see my response to the parent comment on this thread. In short, I supported the cable weight of the cables that connect to the ECU up by the radiator. So, basically a loose connection that was fixed by supporting the weight of the wires. I haven’t had any issues since I added a couple of zip ties to support the weight of the wires going to the ECU.