Trouble with the Curve Track - Episode 11 - Lego Train Layout Series
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มิ.ย. 2024
- Part 1: • Street Running Road Pl...
Welcome back to Danjo Trains!
In this next episode, I finally present the prototype curved section for my street running road plates.
This thing was complicated.
After considering my different options, I opted to go with Trixbrix pavement (which recently became available in dark grey) in order to get the smoothest finish possible. Enjoy the show!
0:00 - Intro
0:13 - Background
0:37 - Design
2:02 - Starting the Modular
2:47 - How to Tile Curved Track
6:34 - Finishing the Modular
10:35 - Assembly
10:58 - Outro
Music
"Vibing Over Venus" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
"Dispersion Relation" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
"Fast Talkin" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
#lego #legocity #legocityupdate #legotrain #legomoc #legomodular #legotrains #modeltrains #train #trains #streetrunning - บันเทิง
You could have sandpapered the non-lego bricks, you can see the 3d printed patterns on it. You should do it, and then pass some semi glossy protective on top to uniform the look, and the shine should automatically make it more similar in color to the real lego ones.
Also you should work with a cutter or a hobby knife under the piece of track that always pop-ups and doesn't stick properly, cutting the excess and reworking it carefully until it fits better
Thanks, these are fantastic suggestions! 😁 I will definitely see about improving those pieces for the next layout update. It always bugged me that they didn't have that same shiny finish.
That's a great idea!
If these peices could be printed with ABS, you could give them a short acetone bath after a light sanding. it would smooth the surfaces and make it shiny like injection-molded lego. Only risk there is potentially morphing the part underneath and affecting tolerance. However, since an acetone bath only uses acetone fumes and no contact with liquid acetone is made, you could simply hold the outer facing peices over the acetone for 30-60 seconds and that might be enough without warping the other side.
I immediately thought of gundam building when I saw these and thought the same thing. If you get some abrassive pad you can get rid of the 3D printed texture and can even sand down that one piece that keeps wanting to stand up so it won't keepntrying to stand up anymore.
Lego should sell these modules. Include a X crossing as well
I like the idea of an X crossing!
@@danjotrains I believe there used to be one, for the old 9 volt tracks
Alternative suppliers have solutions for problems Lego doesn't solve. Including curves with different radii.
I think if you raised the entire street level up by a few bricks, you could come up with some sort of purist S.N.O.T. technique to fill the gaps using slopes on their sides. I think that would look more uniform than your plate+jumper technique too. I understand however that for most people raising the entire street level of a Lego city by a few bricks would be unreasonable!
beautiful work.
Its a small thing but props for your music choices throughout this. I found it very chill and relaxing
5:20 They were printed with the top part pointing up creating floating overhangs. Would they have been printed with the top pointing towards the build plate they would have had way better tolerances and a much nicer finish.
The sesame street moc looks great
That was very satisfying
I can't wait to see this compleet and working.
This is awesome!
Very informative!
on 10:52 theres a piece that im assuming is a 2x2 with half studs half tile. its on the track piece near the bottom left of the video, where your little turn for the curb/sidewalk is. its black. please please change that to dark grey it'll look so much better!
Great catch! I will definitely replace that for dark grey.
Love the mini Diagon Alley and 123 Seasame Street
Very nice
this looks so nice :D please do more of that. This looks so clean and its interesting to see how you can solve such problems like how to fill the space between the track! Definitely needs more attention!
Thanks! I promise there's definitely more to come 😁
Can you build a 4-8-8-4 big boy or 4-8-8-2 ac12 cab forward for this series as i would like to know how you would do so in lego
I've always wanted to build an 4-8-8-2 AC12 cab forward!
Woow, so cool!
Thank you!
I'm a big Lego Trains fan, but I've been frustrated by the track system. R40 tracks are FAR too tight of a curve, and the 6-stud width limits the size of trains you can build (I'm a big fan of how well the Hogwarts Express Collector's edition works for minifigure scale, but it's 8 studs wide). Not to mention, they don't attach to other pieces very well (as shown in this video). I'm not familiar with the non-lego options that are available, but I want to learn more. What do you recommend?
I would recommend injection-molded track. It's got the same quality and finish as Lego. I've bought R56 from both BrickTracks and TrixBrix. Both products are great. For even wider curves, I looked quickly and saw that BrickTracks produces R104 (injection-molded) and TrixBrix makes up to R184 but only 3D-printed (which I'm not crazy about). I hope that helps! 😁
Nice video!
Thanks!
why do you not fill in the road under the round corners of the pavement
I honestly ran out of dark grey pieces 😅 but they'll be fixed in the next layout video!
@@danjotrains i thought it was on purpose 😂fair play man
In the old days the beams and rails were loose part less complicated than this one piece rail part, 😮, but a challenge I believe 😂
Do you mean the 12V rails? I never thought of those. That might actually make it easier to build these roads!
Absolutely amazing, only question i have is how will tiling the switch tracks over work?
I'm open to suggestions! If I don't come up with a better idea, I might have to 3D-print my own parts 😅
looks good. how come the fire hydrant is black in seseme street? shouldnt it be red?
That's the one that came with the set! Most of the buildings that are supposed to be from New York City (like the Sanctum Sanctorum, Daily Bugle, Avengers Tower), actually all have black fire hydrants 😄
Why is the color more important than the functionality? If your lego buildings catch fire and theres no water pressure then the lego firemen wont be able to help
@08:55 Who the F prints *_AND_* sells such Tiles Right-side Up thus showing the visible Top Layer Print Lines instead of Upside Down *_AND_* on a glossy Build Plate for a smooth and original LEGO Tiles matching finish!? 💢
Good catch, I didn't notice the print lines on that piece before! I'll be doing some work on the 3D-printed tiles soon to see if I can get a nicer finish on them 😁
Had to point it out... at 0:29 the Y-intersection for the train tracks has the trains approaching from the left side turning left into ONCOMING TRAFFIC. the trains approaching from the top turn right, again into ONCOMING TRAFFIC. That is not how a Y-intersection should look on this road my guy! That turn between top and left should either be connected to the right side of the top road or the right side of the left road. In this configuration any train using it will be driving head-on into traffic.
Good catch! I didn't think about the direction of the traffic 😄
Glue them down
Never thought you could do that with Lego train tracks :0
what program is this?
I think it’s bricklink studio but I’m not sure, if only he said it or something 😔
Bricklink Studio. You can download it for free 😄
trip bricks person should instead of 3-D printing it injection mould it that would be awesome
Yes, I always try to use injection moulded parts over 3D-printed ones whenever I can. They're always high quality!
You should try resin 3D printing
Yeah but injection moulds are really pricey
@@redbaron7486 some of your 3D-printed LEGO pieces are inspired by existing LEGO parts. You might be to superglue the inspired real Lego pieces to make a replica of that 3-D printed piece if that makes sense
@@hypocritehaterofficial3283 It sounds possible. but on my original point, an injection moulded piece would still be very pricy since they'd need to buy a mould and a machine for injection moulding.
I need software of 3d printed piece
The 3D printed pieces are a product from Trixbrix (check out "Pavement for Quarter Circle R40")
@@danjotrains thanks
Its looks like Amsterdam
Krautz 💀
I have no issues with using none lego pieces in general. I think lego purism is silly but those colors are not even close to matching the original lego color so it looks pretty meh due to colors. Plus there are completely obvious texture differences. Some not too bad with others having literal line grains from the printing process. Why not just use regular legos and just cut/grind/polish them to size? That would look way better. Especially for the outer road part (the squares on the outside of the track). That should not he very difficult and should look way better. Not sure if you could easily do that for the inner track so using those peinted pieces wouldn't be too bad.
There are people who have found methods nearly perfect with using actual lego pieces. I forget the channel that pulled it off. Obviously some minor gaps but looked really good.
Also if one is popping up just super glu it. No reason not to since you aren't a lego purist. *shrug*
Can you not design a method to fill in those corner holes? They look terrible unless you can somehow make them look like a drain.
That's actually a really great suggestion to cut/grind some Lego tiles to size for the outer road sections! I could use the 3D-printed parts as a guide to get the size just right. I'll definitely look into that.
As for the corner holes, the 2x2 modified tiles just need to be replaced with grey ones. I'll fix that soon 😅
@@danjotrains cool cool, glad I was helpful. I wish I remembered but someone on TH-cam with a fairly large channel I think maybe 1xxk followers or high 10k followers had a really good all lego part design not perfect but pretty good looking. It was a "modern city i think and i think he had a fairly thin build like only 2 feet or so deep or at least for that one part with the train/road.
But it was like a year or 2 ago I saw the channel so sorry I can't just give you a direct link.
Just remember lego pieces when cut will show the internal structure and not that nice clean edge so you'll need to figure out a way to hide it.
Also, you could always consider stickers like custom printed stickers with a pattern to hide something or even use custom printed stickers to show dirt, trash, street marking, or whatever might be good or interesting for story telling or covering up something.
Pros and cons like all things do.
IM sorry but the3d printed pieces aren't lego and so it's just like i don't love them
Do you have a suggestion for a better solution?
They look fine
Then don’t watch.
@@wesleyandrews9198No, it’s just purists and it makes total sense. Some people don’t like this type of stuff because it’s not actually lego, purism, perfectly fine, it’s his opinion, no need to be rude.
@@doursenMy thought's exactly. Everyone has their own preferences. It is cool that people have made this option for people who want it, but it's alright if people don't like this for a solution. He does give options in the video for the Lego purists out there.
3D printing is good for prototyping - but for production it is utterly crap (at least for normal FDM printers with plastic). The tolerances are bad, the surface needs a lot of work, they are not strong either. And the price also is way too high (yeah, who knew - 3D printing is time-consuming and really pricey.)
I'm always hoping Lego will eventually come out with some official fancy curve tiles that I could use instead 😄 But I'll try working the surfaces and adding a finish to see if I can improve the pieces.
@Bob Brickman
Damn right my guy. Couldn’t have said it better myself