How and When to Install "Old Work" Electrical Boxes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I show you how to install an "old work" electrical box. I install this in a kitchen cabinet but the process is similar for other applications. I also discuss how "old work" and "new work" boxes differ and how and when to use them.
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Videos produced by The Fixer are provided for informational purposes only. All material provided within this video is for informational, educational, & entertainment purposes only. Some of these projects, materials, and techniques may not be appropriate for all ages or skill levels. Please use all safety precautions while following any instructions or concepts provided by this video. Viewers must be aware that by doing projects on their homes they are doing it at their own risk and The Fixer cannot be held liable if they cause any damage to their homes. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to educate themselves on their local codes and regulations before undertaking any sort of project. Always have safety in mind and have fun!
Oh I just LOVE this man . Everything he does is so precise and so easy to understand . Follow his advice and you simply can't go wrong.
Did this sort of thing last year when I redid our kitchen. A lot of fun!
It means a lot to have someone doing work in an old house. Personally, my house has three layers of drywall on the ceiling, so the things to think about that you mention are super helpful.
It never ceases to amaze me how easy you make every job look. Envy!!!!Thanks for sharing. It is all coming along.
funny how after watching this channel for a while, as i’m currently in VT for a mini-trip, i find myself looking at the details and such of these older buildings
also wow the hallway and kitchen are already looking quite nice even with just drywall and some cabinetry
I would have drilled a larger hole (the complete size of the box and trim) in the cabinets to allow for the hole box to sit flush on the drywall. After drilling the larger hole in the wood, sand it down to remove rough edges, then install the box on the drywall.
Doing it the way you did it removes a small amount of the "efficiency" of the box since you have a little bit of a gap where the drywall sits away from the edges of the box. Also, when upgrading or removing the cabinets, you will come to the issue with a box being attached to the wood.
For older homes with thicker walls, possibly as ours due to interior wooden siding with drywall over..... use an old work box and replace screws with 1 1/4" longer hardware..... simple but works great.
Seeing those uppers in place was a pleasant surprise!
Helluva job. Nice work incorporating older footage into some newer footage
Very nice cabinets! Looks promising
LOVE your videos!! You're the only you tuber that I stop what I'm doing to watch when I get a notification! Can't help myself!! 👍💜🥳
boy iam gaining courage to do remodeling watching your videos! thank you! for your video's
Excellent video and help me tremendously. I am facing the same exact issue with a new cabinet that was installed over and I existing outlet.
Hope the video helps! Good luck with your outlet!
Making it look easy, as always. Nicely done…
I always learn something from your videos.....hugs
Darken the points on the box with a marker before pushing it into the desired position. This may give a more visible mark.
Great explanation and video.
Thank you.
Nice cabinets. Great explanation, Sean. ☺️
You could also put pencil lead on the protrusions and then press it to the wood. The lead will leave a more visible mark.
I’m loving the new cabinets 😊
I needed a 1-gang shallow old work box but I couldn’t find one at Lowe’s. They had something from “Cantex” (EZ08SF) that said both “New Work” and “Old Work” on the box label, but I have to assume “New Work” was the correct one since there were no tabs to lock behind drywall. I ended up having to go to Home Depot where they had the kind of shallow old work box that partially rotates in to have extra room behind the drywall.
if your dealing with lots of insulation, before handling it rub any exposed skin with Baby Powder, the powder fills the pores of the skin keeping the insulation fibers for getting stuck in your pores, or that is the theory. Also a cold shower as soon as you can after handling the insulation helps, again the cold water keep your pores closed.
Make sure the aby powder doesn't contain asbestos :)(
Nicely done! 👍🏼
Thanks, Will!
If you moved your microwave box near the top of the cabinet…you would have more useable area in your cabinet.
Great editing, really enjoyed that!
Going the other way...I've enjoyed your videos and it helped me a ton doing my own kitchen cabs and sink! Now I feel if I can do that I can do anything. However...that said I am approaching a dilemma and I cannot find any info on my next task so I thought I would reach out and see if I can get some feedback. I have and am sound proofing my middle bedroom to be my new home recording studio. The walls are secure with triple insulation including 1-1/2 rigid foam insulation sealed with insulation spray foam. This room is not only dead silent now it is completely air tight...except for my ceiling. The only thing left is the ceiling. My plan is to also apply the 1-1/2 rigid insulation sheets to the ceiling. Once done the entire room will be completely covered in 2-inch acoustic foam panels. Here's my issue. I need to drop my ceiling light fixtures down about four inches. Wiring is not a concern, but I'm not sure how to securely drop & mount the box to remount my lights to clear the double foam. Thoughts?
As far as installing a box in the ceiling as old work and supporting the weight of a fan, and your joists run 16 inches on center you do have choices, no issues! Retrofit ceiling box with support bar. The bar expands to meet up with adjoining joists. If the joists are further apart like 24 inch on center, that could present a complication.
You make it look so easy!
Look for grease removel wipes, I found some at Target. The microwave will have a lot on the top were the vents are.
one trick if you wanted to use the tabs without modifying the drywall. Get a pack of longer screws of the same diameter and thread pitch as what's used with the receptacle box tabs. If the new screws have pointed ends use a wire stripper with a built in machine screw cutter.
I have used longer screws several times it has never been an issue for me.
I didn't say over a year ago "longer screws couldn't be used".
I was referring to using wire strippers with built-in screw cutters to lop off the pointed/sharp ends.
I mentioned over a year ago to swap for longer screws.
Hey 🤣that end on the video 🤣 I enjoyed the rest of it too of course
Much love from chicago my ninja!
Hi Mr. Fixer! I live in Canada and the renovation center near me almost exclusively keep metal boxes in stock. Those blue plastic boxes you use are so cool! wish i could buy some around here.
My local small town hardware store comes up with all kinds if obscure things for me. God bless you.
Good video. 👌
That is just what I need to do.
I like the old work boxes that screw into stud. Solid and the cheapest ones on Amazon.
CN you also just use longer screws when things are more than an inch thick?
Awesome job!!
much easier in the system we use in Denmark, and we only use, what you call "rework boxes" in drywall, we drill a 57mm (2,25 inch) hole with a hole saw, the box is round, and the taps are made of metal, and are only around 2mm in thickness, if two outlet is needed we drill two round holes, with a small overlap and click the boxes together, and we also have 230volts in a normal outlet, (between hot and neutral, and 400v between to phases, and in all normal houses we have three phases)
"if you're messing with insulation, you should probably wear gloves..."
Looking good! Can't wait for the timelapse!
Great video as always. The ending caused Brayden to die laughing 😂 😂😂
You did alright. Could of replaced the screws with longer ones but since you got it to go in between the cabinet and drywall you did just fine.
An option is old work Slater box , which come with longer screws for the wings. Pass & Seymour Slater Old Work Plastic 1 Gang 16 Cu. In. Swing Bracket Box with Quick/Click
Looking good
See you on the next one
👍👍🇯🇲🇯🇲
Preciate your videos.
Hey...I see your work here are for light switches. Is there any solution to use old work box, for the plug in outlet? The new security plug outlets require far more strength to plug in or pull out. The amount of force will eventually rip the drywall out.
In my application, this is an exterior facing wall, and we added thick insulation and foam board. And need to add reciprocals to the wall. The old work box with the flip out old work tang, doesn't provide adjustment for the foam thickness (and it would be too weak as well). Thinking of the support arms used on ceiling fan install. ANY OTHER IDEAS? I am in a pickle. Thank you.
If the tab screw/bolts aren't long enough for deep penetration, you can get longer ones that will add almost another inch to the depth.
Are you going to post a video showing installation of the upper cabinets? Or will that be combined with install of lower ones? I'd like to see it, every part of the kitchen remodel.
Thank you.
I am thinking upper and lower in one big video. Stay tuned!!
@@TheFixerHomeRepair - Thank you. Look forward to seeing all the kitchen updates.
I have a wall that doesn't have drywall, it has that old school dark brown paneling,, can I use an old work box with the paneling??
informative 👍
There is something to be said for pre-planning. For instance roughing in wiring including under cabinet lights and building a soffit before installing cabinets. You were lucky to be able to use that box. Had you not been, the easiest alternative is a Madison bar. often referred to as a F-clip/strap!!
Any experience or views on fiberglass boxes? I recently bought a circular old work fiberglass box at HD, instead of the traditional wings that tighten down like you show, this one has a semi-flexible metal strap that goes into hole and then tightened-down on the inside edge of the hole.
Question, since the outlet box isn't flush against the drywall is there going to be any issues with cold/warm air coming through if there are any gaps with the drywall and outlet box?
Yes, unless the cabinet is screwed against the wall and blocking most of the airflow and air isn't seeping through the outer edge of the cabinet.
One fix would be to go into the attic and use intumescent caulk to create plug around the hole in the top plate the romex was fed through.
If It's a vented attic Most of the air would come from the hole in the top plate, seal around the romex with intumescent caulk and no airflow.
Can't you replace the screws that come with the box with longer screws? Whoever the electrician was who did the new work wiring and installation of electrical boxes, they did not secure half of them to studs and just left them loose. Also installed a light switch on the other side of a shower valve with nothing in-between........have had to repair everything. Nice video.
Good one! 👍👍
It appears you installed a 15 amp outlet gang. For a microwave, wouldn’t a 20 amp gang be required? If not GFCI protected, a 20 amp GFCI may be appropriate for kitchen.
For thicker walls I have used longer screws for the tabs so the old work box would still work.
Why have I never thought of that? Thank you!
Can someone please tell me why my plastic work box has a ground screw in it? I didn't think I had to ground it because it's plastic.
My fixture works fine without using that useless ground in the plastic box, but i'm still left wondering what the heck it's even for and why it's there. It looks like it was bought this way too, not customized. Maybe it's to organize the ground wires?
Always ENJOY
Always LEARN
Wear gloves while handling insulation "just in case" 🔨🔧👷
Can you use old work boxes to install flood lights on your exterior soffit?
You could but there are many different types of houses so I would check in with your local electrician. He can also make sure that everything is in code.
The Fixer 👍
Sweet!
Question: I am installing a backsplash and we dont need the electrical outlet. Can I just remove the receptacle and cap off the wires and dry wall over it?
Hey. I wouldn't feel comfortable having live wires capped behind my wall, so I would recommend checking with your local electrician.
@@TheFixerHomeRepair ty
I've been an electrician for almost 50 years, you should always leave some slack ie wire in the wall. I do in case another trade damaged the wire.
Omg, I didn't know "old work boxes" were a thing. I was gust figuring out how I was going to make a hole I could fit my hand and drill into to screw to studs and all the mud and sheetrock. Now I don't have to do any of that..I am moving a vanity light up 6 inches and 3 inches sideways. #gamechanger
I’m trying to find the junction box that has slots and can slip over wires without removing
Where did you buy that energy saving old work box?
Got it at the old home depot! 👍
@@TheFixerHomeRepair never seen it at my home Depot. Can't even find it online anywhere for a reasonable price
Good time to install ducting for an actually functional microwave exhaust fan.
I think the only issue you might have with cutting an oversized hole in the drywall would be that you're reducing the fire rating/barrier - iirc a lot of dry wall is fire resistant, same with boxes, so you'd be creating an opening for fire to reach your framing by cutting oversized holes in the drywall, potentially
The Fixer doesn’t fire rate his house. “Not required”, yet if it’s your house and you’re doing all the work, why would you not want to fire rate it? It’s your house, do whatever you want.
Doesn’t the microwave need a high powered box? It pulls a lot of juice when first started.
most only require a 15A circuit. he used #12 wire, enough for a 20A circuit
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Those are called retrofit boxes not to be confused with an old used work box.
😂😂👍🏻
Much easier solution to a old works box not able to reach drywall. Just remove screws from box. Add longer screws. Problem solved.
Oh no !!! Not a garbage disposal!!!
#69 YEEAAA!!!!
First😁
Nailed it! 😀
A better way is removing the cabinet do the electrical job and reinstall the cabinet
We call them “cut-in” box. South Florida.
When you vent the microwave will the stud behind it be in the way?