Instead of paper I use shrink wrap. It's much more sensitive and thinner. I started doing it this way 'cause after my bit had a few mishaps by going through my aluminum block and breaking the bit I started using shrink wrap. Just the other day I saw someone do something even better when zeroing the z. As he set the router down slowly on the table he spun the bit. As soon as it touched the table he stopped. As soon as I make it out to the shop I'm gonna try it that way to see how accurate and efficient that way is. I've never thought of that before.
@@aetimberpine Ohh, What I use is shrink bags. I just cut the sides and then cut the middle to have two square pieces. I use it just like the paper method except the shrink wrap is so sensitive and slides back and forth so easily that it will react to the slightest graze of the bit. Whereas you feel nothing with paper until the bit traps the paper. Shrink wrap is much thinner and more reactive to the bit touching as your sliding back and forth. You can even feel the bit grazing it. I've done plenty of bit changes in the middle of a project and you can't tell at all in the finished carve. My hair is thicker than the shrink wrap paper I use so not only can you feel the bit grazing soon after the shrink wrap will start to bend. So, I either zero the z when its grazing or when it bends. It slides much better than paper to.
Hey Raiaz, immediately the belts come to mind. I would make sure those are tight. But it could be a variety of things. I haven’t run into this before so I would also suggest FB shapeoko groups. I’ve gotten lots of help on the different groups on FB.
Your material is 3/4” but what is your max depth that you’re carving? If it’s a lost piece now, don’t take it off but use it as a trial piece. You don’t want to keep wasting material. Suggestions 1. Reset your z axis 2. Close Carbide Motion and reset your zeroes 3. Double check your max depth setting 4. Double check the thickness of material
after i intialize , i have bitsetter enabled ,it goes over to the bitsetter then i have the probe block for the x,y,z axis..but its still cuttin deep🤷🏾♂️...in carbide create i see the simulation showin its cuttin thru
@@suspensefulness yes if you’re cutting through the entire piece of material, select stock bottom. It’ll automatically populate the thickness of your material in your max depth
@@suspensefulness i don’t have the probe so not sure how that exactly works. What comes to mind though is to double check those settings or redo that setup process. Not sure how involved that is but something in your z setup May be off
Thanks! Good content and information. Pretty straightforward.
Thank you. And appreciate the feedback. I try to get to the point as quick as possible.
Instead of paper I use shrink wrap. It's much more sensitive and thinner. I started doing it this way 'cause after my bit had a few mishaps by going through my aluminum block and breaking the bit I started using shrink wrap.
Just the other day I saw someone do something even better when zeroing the z. As he set the router down slowly on the table he spun the bit. As soon as it touched the table he stopped. As soon as I make it out to the shop I'm gonna try it that way to see how accurate and efficient that way is. I've never thought of that before.
whoa! shrink wrap really? I never would have thought. whats the indicator that you're at the top? I'm curious to know. Thanks for the info.
@@aetimberpine
I don't know what you mean by "what is the indicator that your at the top"?
@@iwannaapple7190 how do you know that you're at the top of your material? The wrap stops moving, or it stretches? Thats what I was referring to.
@@aetimberpine
Ohh, What I use is shrink bags. I just cut the sides and then cut the middle to have two square pieces. I use it just like the paper method except the shrink wrap is so sensitive and slides back and forth so easily that it will react to the slightest graze of the bit. Whereas you feel nothing with paper until the bit traps the paper. Shrink wrap is much thinner and more reactive to the bit touching as your sliding back and forth. You can even feel the bit grazing it. I've done plenty of bit changes in the middle of a project and you can't tell at all in the finished carve. My hair is thicker than the shrink wrap paper I use so not only can you feel the bit grazing soon after the shrink wrap will start to bend. So, I either zero the z when its grazing or when it bends. It slides much better than paper to.
Love the beginning!
Thank you!!!!
Love your process!
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Working on a job that has different layers and requires a different drill bit, does the CNC have to be rezero’d after changing to a new bit?
Don’t rezero your x and y.
You don’t even have to do reset your z but I sometimes do . But definitely don’t touch your x and y.
Thank you! I inherited a CNC 3018 pro and I’m searching for tutorials like yours and learn as much as I can before doing my first cut.
Hey, bro. my x axis is making a squeaking noise, when moving. Any suggestions. Thanks
Hey Raiaz, immediately the belts come to mind. I would make sure those are tight. But it could be a variety of things. I haven’t run into this before so I would also suggest FB shapeoko groups. I’ve gotten lots of help on the different groups on FB.
why does my z axis keep going deep beyond the .75 mdf i set in carbide create..im lost
Your material is 3/4” but what is your max depth that you’re carving?
If it’s a lost piece now, don’t take it off but use it as a trial piece. You don’t want to keep wasting material.
Suggestions
1. Reset your z axis
2. Close Carbide Motion and reset your zeroes
3. Double check your max depth setting
4. Double check the thickness of material
@@aetimberpine should i set my max depth at the same 3/4" if im cuttin all the way thru..but its actually cuttin like 1/4" deeper
after i intialize , i have bitsetter enabled ,it goes over to the bitsetter then i have the probe block for the x,y,z axis..but its still cuttin deep🤷🏾♂️...in carbide create i see the simulation showin its cuttin thru
@@suspensefulness yes if you’re cutting through the entire piece of material, select stock bottom. It’ll automatically populate the thickness of your material in your max depth
@@suspensefulness i don’t have the probe so not sure how that exactly works.
What comes to mind though is to double check those settings or redo that setup process. Not sure how involved that is but something in your z setup May be off
yeah, I'm sure you had some information in here, but I stopped after the 7th annoying sound.
Thanks for the feedback Preston. Don’t check out my collet video! Haha I cringe on that one myself!
@@aetimberpine I appreciate the warning :)