Roof looks good. That's a solid solution for the price. Good stuff. I get nervous watching you near those edges plus this work is tough on the knees and back.
Thanks. It is ok when you have help. The help is sometimes not up to par but it o]is better than nothing. Thanks for you faithful comments, I like it Take care
I want to add one more point. Manufacturers printed literature along with the National Roofing Contractors Assoc guidelines tell you that the substrate to be torched, glued, adhered too must be flat, dry, free of wrinkles, buckles and ridges.
I have a 700 ft attached townhouse with a pitched roof high point in the center. Top layer is a white roofing fabric that is old and porus in 75% of the roof. Under is decomposed wood. Under it is gravel/torchdown asphalt. A core was done and it now leaks and screw holes I put for a tarp may be leaking too. I plan to use henrys wet patch to seal. I will open the core and put henrys below and above the asphalt plug, and push henrys deep into the screw holes . Later I plan to put layers of a roof patch like henrys over the entire top fabric. If I get ambitious I would strip the fabric and wood pulp and clean then possibly torch down as you show in your videos. What do you think??
Hot Tar was before your time? Hot asphalt is still being used on a regular basis in roofing. Plus that’s not two roofs, that’s one Asphaltic roof with the plies becoming delaminated. Also, doesn’t look like you have a pattern for your fasteners, don’t know if you would pass wind uplift. Doesn’t look like you primed the substrate for the Base sheet. Not priming the substrate for a Liberty self adhered roof system, as well as some of those substrates are not accepted by GAF. At least without a sign off from the manufacturer and I doubt they signed off on this installation. How are you going to give the owner the manufacturer’s warranty? Or do you install this with no guarantee or backing for the work. If it fails in 6 months it’s too bad for the owner?
Ok wise guy. 1. Hot Asphalt may be used here and there but is definitely the choice among 99% of roofers. Those days are gone. I have seen some old timers still get into it or where some government-specified such system. You are wrong to even think that it is a commonly used system. 2. As I mentioned I am not a Hot Asphalt guy in the video. So yes it could be delimitation. 3. This roof had no uplift since it was installed. 60 years plus. Why would it now? I was not putting down fasteners for that reason. I was fasting places where it has delaminated a lot, not for uplifting I don't care about GAF or any manufacturer's warranties. I have been burned many times by them having some kind of loophole. I do not follow any people and how they do things. You may and that is ok. Please don't follow me, you will freak out every time. Especially Union workers and people that went to some school. I am a self-taught guy that got into Torch Down 40 years ago. If you want to see a Rule freak, see my son's videos @allroofusa. he is insane with doing things by the book. I can't be bothered. So don't let me bother you.
I hope potential customers reads his last sentence. He thinks he's doing a superior job because he saved the customer money. But he's saving the customer money because he's skipping critical steps in his installation process. If certain areas are delaminating the whole roof should of been refastened. By the looks of it there are possibly 2 roofs already on this roof. Your just adding another layer(incorrectly) which in most states is illegal.
GAF has a brand called Liberty and normally Beacon Building Supply carry that brand Mule Hide is another brand by ABC Building Supply There are other brands that are as good.
I'm going to be doing my homes flat roof a total strip down and rebuild They have put marble tile straight on top of concrete and it has leaked big time with water penetrating down into the internal walls obviously causing damp and so much damage Would it be correct to strip the marble tile to concrete Base of cold bitumen 80/100 Do I need to put down any type of board I.e ply? Or do I torch on straight onto the base? I don't trust anyone now and don't have the finances so any step by step information will be much appreciated I try and follow you're channel and see many way's with boards and insulation materials being used I just need to know layer wise what to put down Many thanks
Ok, without knowing exactly what your situation is, this is what I think: 1. No need to remove the marble 2. I would install a self adhering base on top of the marble 3. Install heavy gauge drip edge 4. Then Install a APP 180 Torch Down GAF, Firestone, Mule Hide a few to mention If someone else is reading this, please give us your idea what you would do. Many Thanks
@@FlatRoofDoctor oh wonderful I thought I may need to remove the marble However thank you I will take you're advice and stick to the steps you have put down God bless you & Thank you
Our house has a 20-year-old low slope roof like this with (I believe) the same 2-part system you just laid. The plywood deck is decent (no rot detected) with multiple foam sheets underneath followed by more plywood above the roof joists. However, it's time for a new roof. My options seem to be 1) remove the existing and install the same 2-part system 2) or possibly??, fluid-applied acrylic elastomeric roof system (eg Acrylabls) over the existing roofing. Your thoughts, ideas, suggestions (recognizing you can't see the roof).
Don't need to remove the existing. It should still be good after 20 years. Why do you think you need to do something? I think you have a Torch Down roof instead of the peel and stick. Anyway, if the membrane was protected against the Sun and UV's, it should last indefinitely. If not, and you see spider cracks on the surface, then it is time for something. 3 options; 1. Do another Torch Down straight unto the existing 2. Do a Peel and Stick with no base as in this video 3. Use a Silicone Based coating and cover the entire roof. If the roof is in relative good shape, then the coating would be the attractive part. Anyone can do that without any help. Send pics to my phone and I can help you with the assessment. 203 858 0080. I might save you a bunch
Are you kidding, 40 years? Not even 4 years. Get the tile to a dumpster. Tear off all of the old wrinkled crap and install all new insulation and a good white reflective membrane like TPO. New membrane and metal coping on parapet walls. And quit referring to your material as rubber,it is modified bituminous asphalt. Not rubber.
most roofing contractor supply stores wont even sell to you unless you are a certified to install that certain roofing product. he doesnt tell you that so i will. that roof will fail in a couple years
Lowe's pro desk in Burbank California ordered this Liberty self stick 2 ply system for me with no problems about 8 months ago . Thank you Flat Roof Doctor for your videos.
I’ve been having a roof leak on my flat roof for years even after having it replaced and now sealed with a white rubber seal. Water continues to run down the corner wall where the roof sloops down out to the gutter. Need help!
The peel and stick system have not been tested that long yet ut roofs that I did around 15 years ago are still performing very well. I just go by what I see and expect to see.
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You’re the exact guy we need to help us do this. Thank you
Roof looks good. That's a solid solution for the price. Good stuff. I get nervous watching you near those edges plus this work is tough on the knees and back.
Thanks. It is ok when you have help. The help is sometimes not up to par but it o]is better than nothing.
Thanks for you faithful comments, I like it
Take care
I want to add one more point. Manufacturers printed literature along with the National Roofing Contractors Assoc guidelines tell you that the substrate to be torched, glued, adhered too must be flat, dry, free of wrinkles, buckles and ridges.
Nice work from London Ontario. Legacy Flat Roofing & Sheet Metal Inc.
Hey my friend. I am glad you got yourself a computer. Soon you will get the hang of it and make great roofing videos
I find you're information fantastic
I appreciate that!
I have a 700 ft attached townhouse with a pitched roof high point in the center.
Top layer is a white roofing fabric that is old and porus in 75% of the roof. Under is decomposed wood. Under it is gravel/torchdown asphalt.
A core was done and it now leaks and screw holes I put for a tarp may be leaking too.
I plan to use henrys wet patch to seal. I will open the core and put henrys below and above the asphalt plug, and push henrys deep into the screw holes .
Later I plan to put layers of a roof patch like henrys over the entire top fabric.
If I get ambitious I would strip the fabric and wood pulp and clean then possibly torch down as you show in your videos.
What do you think??
Hot Tar was before your time? Hot asphalt is still being used on a regular basis in roofing. Plus that’s not two roofs, that’s one Asphaltic roof with the plies becoming delaminated.
Also, doesn’t look like you have a pattern for your fasteners, don’t know if you would pass wind uplift.
Doesn’t look like you primed the substrate for the Base sheet. Not priming the substrate for a Liberty self adhered roof system, as well as some of those substrates are not accepted by GAF. At least without a sign off from the manufacturer and I doubt they signed off on this installation.
How are you going to give the owner the manufacturer’s warranty? Or do you install this with no guarantee or backing for the work. If it fails in 6 months it’s too bad for the owner?
Ok wise guy.
1. Hot Asphalt may be used here and there but is definitely the choice among 99% of roofers. Those days are gone. I have seen some old timers still get into it or where some government-specified such system. You are wrong to even think that it is a commonly used system.
2. As I mentioned I am not a Hot Asphalt guy in the video. So yes it could be delimitation.
3. This roof had no uplift since it was installed. 60 years plus. Why would it now? I was not putting down fasteners for that reason. I was fasting places where it has delaminated a lot, not for uplifting
I don't care about GAF or any manufacturer's warranties. I have been burned many times by them having some kind of loophole.
I do not follow any people and how they do things. You may and that is ok. Please don't follow me, you will freak out every time. Especially Union workers and people that went to some school.
I am a self-taught guy that got into Torch Down 40 years ago. If you want to see a Rule freak, see my son's videos @allroofusa. he is insane with doing things by the book. I can't be bothered. So don't let me bother you.
I hope potential customers reads his last sentence.
He thinks he's doing a superior job because he saved the customer money. But he's saving the customer money because he's skipping critical steps in his installation process. If certain areas are delaminating the whole roof should of been refastened. By the looks of it there are possibly 2 roofs already on this roof. Your just adding another layer(incorrectly) which in most states is illegal.
remember quality not the price - the quality is you
Can you lift the caps and set them on top?
Subscribed because of the class my friend. Thanks
This looks easy for anyone to do. Would you mind listing materials and the roof types that it applies to? Thx
GAF has a brand called Liberty and normally Beacon Building Supply carry that brand
Mule Hide is another brand by ABC Building Supply
There are other brands that are as good.
@@FlatRoofDoctor Thx. 😊
Non- roofer's watching this- do nothing you see here...
Again a bit messy and bitumen everywhere but its get the job done. And yes it wil last 40 years no problem. Keep up the good job doc!!!
Thanks
I'm going to be doing my homes flat roof a total strip down and rebuild
They have put marble tile straight on top of concrete and it has leaked big time with water penetrating down into the internal walls obviously causing damp and so much damage
Would it be correct to strip the marble tile to concrete
Base of cold bitumen 80/100
Do I need to put down any type of board I.e ply?
Or do I torch on straight onto the base?
I don't trust anyone now and don't have the finances so any step by step information will be much appreciated I try and follow you're channel and see many way's with boards and insulation materials being used I just need to know layer wise what to put down
Many thanks
Ok, without knowing exactly what your situation is, this is what I think:
1. No need to remove the marble
2. I would install a self adhering base on top of the marble
3. Install heavy gauge drip edge
4. Then Install a APP 180 Torch Down GAF, Firestone, Mule Hide a few to mention
If someone else is reading this, please give us your idea what you would do.
Many Thanks
@@FlatRoofDoctor oh wonderful I thought I may need to remove the marble
However thank you I will take you're advice and stick to the steps you have put down
God bless you &
Thank you
Our house has a 20-year-old low slope roof like this with (I believe) the same 2-part system you just laid. The plywood deck is decent (no rot detected) with multiple foam sheets underneath followed by more plywood above the roof joists.
However, it's time for a new roof. My options seem to be 1) remove the existing and install the same 2-part system 2) or possibly??, fluid-applied acrylic elastomeric roof system (eg Acrylabls) over the existing roofing. Your thoughts, ideas, suggestions (recognizing you can't see the roof).
Don't need to remove the existing. It should still be good after 20 years. Why do you think you need to do something? I think you have a Torch Down roof instead of the peel and stick. Anyway, if the membrane was protected against the Sun and UV's, it should last indefinitely. If not, and you see spider cracks on the surface, then it is time for something.
3 options;
1. Do another Torch Down straight unto the existing
2. Do a Peel and Stick with no base as in this video
3. Use a Silicone Based coating and cover the entire roof.
If the roof is in relative good shape, then the coating would be the attractive part. Anyone can do that without any help.
Send pics to my phone and I can help you with the assessment. 203 858 0080. I might save you a bunch
Are you kidding, 40 years? Not even 4 years. Get the tile to a dumpster. Tear off all of the old wrinkled crap and install all new insulation and a good white reflective membrane like TPO. New membrane and metal coping on parapet walls. And quit referring to your material as rubber,it is modified bituminous asphalt. Not rubber.
What do you recommend for a 3/4" in 4" pitch on a 5 foot by 13 foot exposed balcony. DIY of course!
What you done flat is really flat or.not
most roofing contractor supply stores wont even sell to you unless you are a certified to install that certain roofing product. he doesnt tell you that so i will. that roof will fail in a couple years
couch potatoes. All you do is watch foot ball and critisize
Lowe's pro desk in Burbank California ordered this Liberty self stick 2 ply system for me with no problems about 8 months ago . Thank you Flat Roof Doctor for your videos.
I was a roofer for 38 years , this roof won’t last 10 years lol
How much to do stood like that ? Ball park figure sir ?
I’ve been having a roof leak on my flat roof for years even after having it replaced and now sealed with a white rubber seal. Water continues to run down the corner wall where the roof sloops down out to the gutter. Need help!
best is send pics to phone so I can help you find the problem 203 858 0080
Covering over wrinkles you get wrinkles and covering over bubbles you get bubbles.
🥰🥰🥰 love you sweetheart nice job
love you too
Torching down peel and stick. I've seen it all now.
great now you know
@@FlatRoofDoctor what not to do, yes.
Asphalt primer should be used.
European manufacturers recommend using a torch on their peel and stick membranes! For joints,details etc!
14.08 hahahaah that not even heated or torched down
can't heat Peel and Stick that much. You may not know that. Experience is what is lacking
@@FlatRoofDoctor you dont ever heat peel n stick it has to be glued and pressure rolled
@@FlatRoofDoctor also you can message me for any other info you need also
@@xxdrloveleyxx5185 lol that's what I thought should degranulate first , or prime atleast
bad bad bad roof lol no we are real roofers that care about how our roofs looks and that its done right
" looks like it is done right" you got that right. Appearance is what you look for. Big noisy trucks and tattoos
I think 40 years is stretching it lol
The peel and stick system have not been tested that long yet ut roofs that I did around 15 years ago are still performing very well. I just go by what I see and expect to see.