Totally agree with other comments here. Jars has been swapped around. Apart from noticing the elastic bands and cloths size, you can also see evidence that as soon he puts a spoon of water on each jar, you can clearly see that the Nikwax forms a sphere bubble shape straight away. Whilst the ReviveX did not have such sphere shape bubble form.
I thought so too..I saw the sphere bubble.. but I think it is because the Nikwax was tighter on top flatter.. the indentation is deeper on the revive x there fore did not see the sphere because no light hit it.. .. I also think the jars got switched.
@@Temblor65 I have been buying and using Nikwax for years. Totally worth it. Jackets that used to have DWR and jackets without DWR, Nikwax brings back and gives repellency to the jackets i have applied it on. Not only jackets, you can use it on caps, hats, shoes, any piece of clothing you want.
Appears to me that the fabric the Nikwax is on is more taut, which could explain why the trail of water does not return to the puddle as quickly. It would be so helpful if better controls are used. Also the longevity of the formulation and how much it affects breathability is (for me) more important than how slick it makes a surface initially. I'd imagine that there are compromises to be had; no DWR and my garment will breathe extremely well, but wet out quickly. Soak it in silicone and it will shed water extremely well, and do so for a very long time, but not breathe.
Actually DWR improves breathability of membraned clothes. If water soaks through the outer protective layer to the membrane it will kind of block its pores. How a membrane works - when water is on inner side and no water on outer side, the inner water evaporates and goes as gas through membrane to the outer side. There is difference in partial pressure of air moisture inside and outside, so vapour goes to the side with lower partial pressure. When both sides of the membrane are wet, there is no difference in partial pressure on the membrane sides, so the vapour stays as is, inside. That is why it is important to keep outer side of membrane dry. DWR applied on outer protective layer repels water and keeps the outer side of membrane dry. In result - the breathability improves.
Checking the waterproofing after applying Nikwax is partly correct, that is, if you spray a few drops of water, it is good, but if you put the shower on the bath, on the jacket, you will have a surprise because it will no longer be waterproof. Try!
Personally as an observer of a homey type test, both are extremely effective after an hour. Any marginal differences may he explained by any number of factors. I would happily use either.
It in a Outdoors climbing shops and I heard customer walking around in the store in the background noises. As well as cars and trucks noises on a busy street.
Never use a wash and waterproofer unless it's on a non laminated polyester or nylon. However if it's a laminated polyester or nylon that is "not breathable" to begin with, then it doesn't really matter🤷 go ahead and do it👍. Personally I would never want the underside of Gore-Tex where the pores are vulnerable, to get clogged up with any product, no way 🤷!!! The whole point of having microscopic holes is to allow water vapor through right? Why would you want to clog these pores, which "will happen" when you completely submerge the clothing in a bath of DWR😞. I absolutely love using wash-in waterproofers on plain nylon clothing like windbreakers 👍. For all my other waterproof/breathable fabrics I use TX-Direct on the outside of the fabric where you want the DWR in the first place 👍. Or you could use my money saving clever hack, and by a bottle of TX-DIRECT Wash-in (which is concentrated meant to be diluted in the washing machine) and fill a spray bottle with ( 1 part TX-DIRECT Wash-in, and 7 parts water )😎. What that means is your one bottle of "TX-DIRECT Wash-ln" turns into eight bottles of "TX-DIRECT Spray-On" 😂. I don't think Nikwax wants you to know that hack lol, it's like getting 8 bottles for the price of one bottle 👍. I'm pretty sure they'd rather you buy eight bottles of "TX-DIRECT Spray-On" rather than make 8 bottles from 1 bottle of "TX-DIRECT Wash-In"🤷. I make my own laundry soap free of surfactants, brightners, dies and chemicals so I skipped the tech wash also. I hope this helps somebody 👍 if you have any questions feel free to ask, I will eventually respond ✌️.
Is it possible to make a jacket worse using DWR products if you use to much? I used grangers the other day and unfortunately most of the jacket was wet straight way
2014 as I recall was when C8 was phased out for environmental reasons so this Revive-X he tested is likely C8 and the current Revive-X (C6) is not nearly as effective.
so the videos about the product mention that there are flexible polymers in the product... here I wonder are these polymers safe?? I mean these could be dangerous for the environment by perhaps not being biodegradable or by intoxicating the life forms that may come in contact... it may pollute the person wearing these as well... it may be better to get wet than to get intoxicated and pollute all around us just because we wanted to be dry...
Nikwax waterproof treatment Spray and laundry retreatment and cleaner have products just for leather only and tents & gears and backpack and Hunting camouflage to prevent UV deterioration and Downy clothes and sleeping bag and Nikwax Cotton Proof , poly cotton and canvas .
Hi! Is that a goretex membrane you are testing on? (As opposed to layers) How would things look if there is an outer layer, and a membrane beneath? Pardon my ignorance here.. I just washed an Aquafoil jacket in Nikwax, and when it rained the jacket seemed to get wetted (just looking at it -no water pearls), but water didn't penetrate, and it dried very quickly once the rain stopped. I might do the treatment again, as I let the washing machine run rinse cycles (dohh). Thanks!
ReviveX wash-In laundry detergent retreatment don't want you to putting on Rinse cycle and only skip to the spinning washer cycle to remove excess water only and use medium heat setting for over 60 minutes While Nikwax laundry detergent retreatment and cleaner does require rinsing in cold water until water runs clear then line drying out or very low heat setting in dryer for 20 minutes Nikwax laundry retreatment rainproof and cleaner are better outdoor hand washing without any electric power washer and dryer.
Nikwax waterproof treatment required on breathable waterproof windproof clothes and stuff like it says for Gore-Tex ,Ultrex ,Entrant, Permatex, and eVent and Bone-Dry Bass Pro shops clothes.
I've just tried ReviveX and it didn't work at all. Directions are simple, Tech wash > spray on ReviveX > Tumble dry low/medium heat. Did all that, and it doesn't work. Didn't even bead the water up. Going back to Nikwax.
Someone swapped the jars around!!! look at the elastic bands, (and the shorter cut cloth).The one on the right has a twist in it then after the wait its on the left.....Test invalid....
It could be that the Nikwax is allowing more breathability by not being such a solid barrier, but still not allowing the water to come through. Could be this breathability that makes it lose the quicksilver effect.
No. Breathability is lost the moment the surface becomes coated with water. Moisture as vapor can only pass readily via the much smaller openings in the membrane layer, the principle Gore-tex et al rely on; wetting blocks any vapor passage. Contaminants like oils or dirt can allow water to wick over and through, overcoming the weak hydrophobic repellant property, and may move water in the way trees can "pump" it hundreds of feet above the level any vacuum could draw by capillary action. In a downpour, even a shell that sheds and beads is not going to breathe; you may stay dry, only because you're cold and not sweating. If you run in the rain, you will get sweaty because no garment made can pass moisture fast enough to compensate, and especially not through a wetted layer. If it stops raining and you keep warm enough to vaporize the buildup, over an hour or two you may dry out even while wearing the shell - but faster, if you remove it!
Outdry membrane doesn't rely on DWR because the membrane is on the outside. Unfortunately only a few jackets use this membrane and still use goretex neoshell and event which all rely on DWR.
Every 'membrane' type fabric including Gore-Tex is a laminate and all depend on DWR to keep a hydrophobic boundary outside the membrane; once that is lost, wicking and pressure will compromise any membrane which is actually the least bit breathable, and I've watched the Gore breathing port on venoset drip systems slowly seep a drop at a time over an hour or so, and that is with a liter of fluid or less above the port, atmospheric pressure. Beading as a test is not sufficient, but the one that beads best and longest will be better, as the other has already failed.
Thanks for the great video! I'm looking for a good non flammable waterproof spray for our guys hats. We own a plumbing company and they tend to destroy them. Any recommendations? Does the revivx change the color of the fabrics at all? I'm guessing both are non flammable? Thanks!
Yes both are have no propellant gase and non persistent Fluorocarbon free Environmentally safe and you can hand wash Nikwax laundry detergent retreatment outdoors without any washer and dryer. But " ReviveX wash-In laundry detergent and spray-on required to used medium heat setting in the dryer so it doesn't work outdoors without any electric power dryer.
No they both products doesn't change the colors . The only one that does change colors on clothes and tents are Camping Silicone Waterproof spray-on that not recommend for Gore-Tex waterproof Breathable clothes and Bass Pro shops Redhead Bone-Dry waterproof Breathable clothes and others that are waterproof Breathable wind proof products . Camping Silicone Waterproof spray-on required on non-Waterproof fabrics of ordinary jacket and pants and boots and shoes and anything related to non-breatheable products . And ReviveX wash-In laundry detergent ( spinning washer ONLY) to remove excess water and definitely ( DO Not Put on Rinse cycle to rinse out products ) ! Used medium heat setting over 60 minutes dryer . So sorry the ReviveX wash-In laundry are not outdoors ready. Nikwax laundry retreatment and cleaner are outdoors ready without any electric power washer and dryer to hand-washing and line drying and rinse with cold water until water runs clear then line drying or very low setting dryer for 20 minutes.
as others have mentioned - the jars were swapped while soaking (look at the cloth and especially the twisted rubber band!) - so it seems nikwax was the better performer... and actually i would've guessed it. a couple years ago on a bike camping trip i woke up on a rainy morning, instantly being a bit jealous of my neighbour who just shook off all the water off his tent and packed it into the bag. asked what the heck he used to have such great water repellency - he said nikwax is the only thing he could really recommend ;)
I work in science and am an outdoor enthusiast. could I suggest using a 2 equally measured weights of fabric, apply same measured weight (or volume) of products to each fabric piece. using a water column with material at the bottom. fill water column. place a container under each column and measure weight of water collected (or not) after say 24 hrs or something? columns should be about 5 metres long..you could use clear plastic tubing or plumbers pipe. resistance to hydraulic pressure (eg driving rain) as much as anything will determine effectiveness of product. You could also tickle the fabric like in your vid to simulate mech action.
Been around the outdoor industry for 45 years; original foul-weather gear needed solid impermeable coatings like neoprene, then urethane, which stank, aged, peeled, tore and leaked. Silicone liquid treatments (Scotchgard) gave marginal benefits and were the first generation analogues to DWR, but worked better on natural fibers ie cotton, not nylon. Goretex was at first a disaster, because pressure and contaminants and capillary actions drew water through the supposedly hydrophobic (stretched teflon) membrane. The DWR is actually what makes Goretex and most other "breathable waterproof" systems work, as it prevents the water from ever wicking beyond the surface. The old rule is still "there is waterproof, and there is everything else"- real harsh demands separate the contenders pretty fast. "Breathability" is pure hype - wrap any one around your face and see how long you can breathe. Sweat soaks and condenses against cooler outer layers, and note that you can still sweat soak a tee shirt exercising, it's a hundred times more breathable than any storm garment. This sort of test is worthless, but will reveal the worst choices quickly. Abrasion, pressure, and extended repeated exposures to real downpours are the only adequate tests to simulate. Rustoleum Never Wet has worked better than others for previously untreated cloth, but it has a strong smell.
pretty much what you said! ;) i'm actually pretty happy with a climaloop membrane in my jacket - keeps my very dry on a walk through the rain even though dwr is off, but condensation against the outer layer in cold conditions while being very active is something that can't be overcome really. sometimes the inside is just as wet as the outside after a bike trip. on shoes i found membrane/leather/mesh mix is not really reliable for extended use, since the toe stretch seems to tear the membrane apart - experienced that myself once and heard/read about that problem from several other people. my meindl army mountain boots on the other hand are heavy and stiff, due to having one thick piece of black leather going from toe to heel, but as long as the leather is kept intact by applying wax regularly there is no chance for water to come into the boot. a real bummer for me was a tatonka EXPedition (still laughing about the name!) waterproof pant - 100 km bike trip and all waterproofness was gone in the saddle section, just keeps leaking - only choice: shoe goo or so
This was a bit dodgy he swapped the jars. Also the biases were being shown clearly from the start. I was surprised when at first the nwax was the loser as i have used both and stuck with that after a long 90mile hiking trip left my feat soaked and my friends bone dry (guess what we were using?)
Maybe next time you’ll mark the jars be fore you start but for you all that read the comments I live in the PNWand have used both these products on all kinds of fabrics Evan cotton and both preform well not great but well so if you want dwr buy the best gear you can afford and remember just because you sent $700. On rain gear does not mean it will out pre form my $70. Gear
just answered the same above - bought tatonka EXPedition waterproof pants, rrp was 260 bucks (only paid 35 or so in an outlet), not so long ago. went on a 100 km bike trip, got a wet butt... and it's absolutely not waterproof anymore in the saddle region and around the knees. sometimes the last resort is just using some shoe goo and additional nylon fabric in stressed regions of your waterproof clothes.
puddling water on fabric isn't the best idea to demonstrate their effectiveness. I'm sure neither company did this when testing their DWR. They are concerned with hydrophobic performance, breathability and wear. This test doesn't hold any water (ahahaha)
@ahti29 You're so stupid, your mom needs to be slapped for even having you. Yea, dumb fuck: I read this comment two years ago, and I've been walking around ever since thinking about a reply to it. That's it.
When I hear that a product is "environmentally friendly", I immediately suspect that the performance has been compromised. I only care about COST and PERFORMANCE.
Goretex is a joke. For the price, under some conditions, you are better off with a cheap plastic jacket. Throw it out and get a new one if it tears or wears out. $10 vs $500.
don't know so much about gore tex in jackets - haven't had one so far. some of my experiences: i'm using a pyua snowboard jacket (rrp was ~500$) with a climaloop membrane since a couple of years and i'm preeetty happy with that! tatonka EXPedition pants (rrp~260$) didn't stand 100 km of a bicycle trip, is absolutely no more waterproof in the saddle region and around the knees... absolute garbage! ...except it's 100% nylon - can be fixed. ... as well as some merrel chameleon 3 gore tex (rrp~250$) shoes. both toe sections started soaking after not even half a year. the shoe is still kinda great, like the feeling a lot, they're just not waterproof/not reliable. shoe wise i wouldn't trust any membrane really - there's so much stretching and rubbing going on, i don't think membranes can handle that for extended periods. bought some meindl army mountain boots (the black ones) afterwards, somewhat heavy and stiff, but always dry!... since years n years! they have one piece of fat leather from toe to heel, you wax that regularly and you're good. conclusion: you can waste loads of money on products you wonder if they have been properly tested in field... if i had payed the full prices i actually would've wanted to slap some people in da face... with a shovel ;) mostly got that stuff from outlet stores, 70% off, cause manufacturers/sellers have to clean out their storage for new super fancy stuff... that has also not been field tested. READ OUTDOOR AND HUNTING FORUMS WHERE ACTUAL PEOPLE TELL ABOUT THEIR EXPERIENCES BEFORE BUYING STH.! most of the design errors can easily be fixed with some nylon fabric and seam grip/shoe goo ;) never buy that environmentally friendly allstar gum crap - not water proof! looks like shoe goo when dryed, you let that soak in water for an hour and it gets soft and tears up all over the place, leaves you with a friggin mess!
I know this comment is a couple years old, but had to reply. I couldn't disagree more, I have a gore-tex jacket that's still going strong at 11 years old, and after having spent 3 yrs taking a beating in Afghanistan. Still repels water extremely well, only getting mildly damp inside even during heavy downpours.
Totally agree with other comments here. Jars has been swapped around.
Apart from noticing the elastic bands and cloths size, you can also see evidence that as soon he puts a spoon of water on each jar, you can clearly see that the Nikwax forms a sphere bubble shape straight away. Whilst the ReviveX did not have such sphere shape bubble form.
I thought so too..I saw the sphere bubble.. but I think it is because the Nikwax was tighter on top flatter..
the indentation is deeper on the revive x there fore did not see the sphere because no light hit it.. ..
I also think the jars got switched.
@@Temblor65 I have been buying and using Nikwax for years. Totally worth it. Jackets that used to have DWR and jackets without DWR, Nikwax brings back and gives repellency to the jackets i have applied it on.
Not only jackets, you can use it on caps, hats, shoes, any piece of clothing you want.
Great video and review. you helped me make a decision. thanks
Love all your reviews , how's your long term testing coming along with these.
Thanks
Can you test Granger DWR with Nikwax and ReviveX too? those are the 3 my local store sell.
Appears to me that the fabric the Nikwax is on is more taut, which could explain why the trail of water does not return to the puddle as quickly. It would be so helpful if better controls are used. Also the longevity of the formulation and how much it affects breathability is (for me) more important than how slick it makes a surface initially. I'd imagine that there are compromises to be had; no DWR and my garment will breathe extremely well, but wet out quickly. Soak it in silicone and it will shed water extremely well, and do so for a very long time, but not breathe.
Actually DWR improves breathability of membraned clothes. If water soaks through the outer protective layer to the membrane it will kind of block its pores. How a membrane works - when water is on inner side and no water on outer side, the inner water evaporates and goes as gas through membrane to the outer side. There is difference in partial pressure of air moisture inside and outside, so vapour goes to the side with lower partial pressure. When both sides of the membrane are wet, there is no difference in partial pressure on the membrane sides, so the vapour stays as is, inside.
That is why it is important to keep outer side of membrane dry. DWR applied on outer protective layer repels water and keeps the outer side of membrane dry. In result - the breathability improves.
Checking the waterproofing after applying Nikwax is partly correct, that is, if you spray a few drops of water, it is good, but if you put the shower on the bath, on the jacket, you will have a surprise because it will no longer be waterproof. Try!
Personally as an observer of a homey type test, both are extremely effective after an hour. Any marginal differences may he explained by any number of factors. I would happily use either.
Any update on DWR durability between Nikwax and ReviveX?
Ok so watching this, your jars are flipped? So the Nikwax is actually the better performer? Thanks for the comparison.
Remember, he's not in a lab.
@@ralphwatten2426 he's not?
It in a Outdoors climbing shops and I heard customer walking around in the store in the background noises. As well as cars and trucks noises on a busy street.
Never use a wash and waterproofer unless it's on a non laminated polyester or nylon.
However if it's a laminated polyester or nylon that is "not breathable" to begin with, then it doesn't really matter🤷 go ahead and do it👍.
Personally I would never want the underside of Gore-Tex where the pores are vulnerable, to get clogged up with any product, no way 🤷!!!
The whole point of having microscopic holes is to allow water vapor through right?
Why would you want to clog these pores, which "will happen" when you completely submerge the clothing in a bath of DWR😞.
I absolutely love using wash-in waterproofers on plain nylon clothing like windbreakers 👍.
For all my other waterproof/breathable fabrics I use TX-Direct on the outside of the fabric where you want the DWR in the first place 👍.
Or you could use my money saving clever hack, and by a bottle of TX-DIRECT Wash-in (which is concentrated meant to be diluted in the washing machine) and fill a spray bottle with ( 1 part TX-DIRECT Wash-in, and 7 parts water )😎.
What that means is your one bottle of "TX-DIRECT Wash-ln" turns into eight bottles of "TX-DIRECT Spray-On" 😂.
I don't think Nikwax wants you to know that hack lol, it's like getting 8 bottles for the price of one bottle 👍.
I'm pretty sure they'd rather you buy eight bottles of "TX-DIRECT Spray-On" rather than make 8 bottles from 1 bottle of "TX-DIRECT Wash-In"🤷.
I make my own laundry soap free of surfactants, brightners, dies and chemicals so I skipped the tech wash also.
I hope this helps somebody 👍 if you have any questions feel free to ask, I will eventually respond ✌️.
Is it possible to make a jacket worse using DWR products if you use to much? I used grangers the other day and unfortunately most of the jacket was wet straight way
how about safe for your skin...? interesting to hear if people find irritation using the wash-in coating the interior of the jacket
Can you compare ReviveX to M3 solution ?
2014 as I recall was when C8 was phased out for environmental reasons so this Revive-X he tested is likely C8 and the current Revive-X (C6) is not nearly as effective.
Is is time to reapply DWR to your favorite outerwear? Look for:
Condensation
Reduced Breathability
Increased Garment Weight
so the videos about the product mention that there are flexible polymers in the product... here I wonder are these polymers safe?? I mean these could be dangerous for the environment by perhaps not being biodegradable or by intoxicating the life forms that may come in contact... it may pollute the person wearing these as well... it may be better to get wet than to get intoxicated and pollute all around us just because we wanted to be dry...
What about kiwi camp dry products how do they stack up?
Thanks for the great info. Would you use a DWR treatment on a tent/fly, or tarp? How about on a pack?
i would ;) as i wrote above - you can just shake off all the water off your fly, no soaking whatsoever --> no drying required!
Nikwax waterproof treatment Spray and laundry retreatment and cleaner have products just for leather only and tents & gears and backpack and Hunting camouflage to prevent UV deterioration and Downy clothes and sleeping bag and Nikwax Cotton Proof , poly cotton and canvas .
And Nikwax have Waterproof boots and shoes and leather boots spray on and laundry retreatment and cleaner.
Hi!
Is that a goretex membrane you are testing on? (As opposed to layers)
How would things look if there is an outer layer, and a membrane beneath?
Pardon my ignorance here..
I just washed an Aquafoil jacket in Nikwax, and when it rained the jacket seemed to get wetted (just looking at it -no water pearls), but water didn't penetrate, and it dried very quickly once the rain stopped.
I might do the treatment again, as I let the washing machine run rinse cycles (dohh).
Thanks!
ReviveX wash-In laundry detergent retreatment don't want you to putting on Rinse cycle and only skip to the spinning washer cycle to remove excess water only and use medium heat setting for over 60 minutes While Nikwax laundry detergent retreatment and cleaner does require rinsing in cold water until water runs clear then line drying out or very low heat setting in dryer for 20 minutes Nikwax laundry retreatment rainproof and cleaner are better outdoor hand washing without any electric power washer and dryer.
Nikwax waterproof treatment required on breathable waterproof windproof clothes and stuff like it says for Gore-Tex ,Ultrex ,Entrant, Permatex, and eVent and Bone-Dry Bass Pro shops clothes.
I never heard of Aquafoil jacket before.
Is Aquafoil jacket breathable waterproof windproof?
nik wax is better ? loos like the jars were swapped around?
I've just tried ReviveX and it didn't work at all. Directions are simple, Tech wash > spray on ReviveX > Tumble dry low/medium heat. Did all that, and it doesn't work. Didn't even bead the water up. Going back to Nikwax.
Someone swapped the jars around!!! look at the elastic bands, (and the shorter cut cloth).The one on the right has a twist in it then after the wait its on the left.....Test invalid....
good eyes youre right! whats up with that???
Absolutely 1oo% the jars where maybe accidentally swapped I don’t know if accidentally or what but definitely swapped
Someone is totally favored another product than others products.
Whooo that’s not good
And that’s why these dudes aren’t around now.
It could be that the Nikwax is allowing more breathability by not being such a solid barrier, but still not allowing the water to come through. Could be this breathability that makes it lose the quicksilver effect.
No. Breathability is lost the moment the surface becomes coated with water. Moisture as vapor can only pass readily via the much smaller openings in the membrane layer, the principle Gore-tex et al rely on; wetting blocks any vapor passage. Contaminants like oils or dirt can allow water to wick over and through, overcoming the weak hydrophobic repellant property, and may move water in the way trees can "pump" it hundreds of feet above the level any vacuum could draw by capillary action. In a downpour, even a shell that sheds and beads is not going to breathe; you may stay dry, only because you're cold and not sweating. If you run in the rain, you will get sweaty because no garment made can pass moisture fast enough to compensate, and especially not through a wetted layer. If it stops raining and you keep warm enough to vaporize the buildup, over an hour or two you may dry out even while wearing the shell - but faster, if you remove it!
Outdry membrane doesn't rely on DWR because the membrane is on the outside. Unfortunately only a few jackets use this membrane and still use goretex neoshell and event which all rely on DWR.
Every 'membrane' type fabric including Gore-Tex is a laminate and all depend on DWR to keep a hydrophobic boundary outside the membrane; once that is lost, wicking and pressure will compromise any membrane which is actually the least bit breathable, and I've watched the Gore breathing port on venoset drip systems slowly seep a drop at a time over an hour or so, and that is with a liter of fluid or less above the port, atmospheric pressure. Beading as a test is not sufficient, but the one that beads best and longest will be better, as the other has already failed.
Where can I buy this from what is a store name
Thanks for the great video! I'm looking for a good non flammable waterproof spray for our guys hats. We own a plumbing company and they tend to destroy them. Any recommendations? Does the revivx change the color of the fabrics at all? I'm guessing both are non flammable? Thanks!
Yes both are have no propellant gase and non persistent Fluorocarbon free Environmentally safe and you can hand wash Nikwax laundry detergent retreatment outdoors without any washer and dryer. But " ReviveX wash-In laundry detergent and spray-on required to used medium heat setting in the dryer so it doesn't work outdoors without any electric power dryer.
No they both products doesn't change the colors . The only one that does change colors on clothes and tents are Camping Silicone Waterproof spray-on that not recommend for Gore-Tex waterproof Breathable clothes and Bass Pro shops Redhead Bone-Dry waterproof Breathable clothes and others that are waterproof Breathable wind proof products . Camping Silicone Waterproof spray-on required on non-Waterproof fabrics of ordinary jacket and pants and boots and shoes and anything related to non-breatheable products . And ReviveX wash-In laundry detergent ( spinning washer ONLY) to remove excess water and definitely ( DO Not Put on Rinse cycle to rinse out products ) ! Used medium heat setting over 60 minutes dryer . So sorry the ReviveX wash-In laundry are not outdoors ready. Nikwax laundry retreatment and cleaner are outdoors ready without any electric power washer and dryer to hand-washing and line drying and rinse with cold water until water runs clear then line drying or very low setting dryer for 20 minutes.
as others have mentioned - the jars were swapped while soaking (look at the cloth and especially the twisted rubber band!) - so it seems nikwax was the better performer... and actually i would've guessed it. a couple years ago on a bike camping trip i woke up on a rainy morning, instantly being a bit jealous of my neighbour who just shook off all the water off his tent and packed it into the bag. asked what the heck he used to have such great water repellency - he said nikwax is the only thing he could really recommend ;)
ReviveX save for my Arcteryx beta SV?
I work in science and am an outdoor enthusiast. could I suggest using a 2 equally measured weights of fabric, apply same measured weight (or volume) of products to each fabric piece. using a water column with material at the bottom. fill water column. place a container under each column and measure weight of water collected (or not) after say 24 hrs or something? columns should be about 5 metres long..you could use clear plastic tubing or plumbers pipe. resistance to hydraulic pressure (eg driving rain) as much as anything will determine effectiveness of product. You could also tickle the fabric like in your vid to simulate mech action.
and maybe not swap the jars around during the wait time lol.. look at the cloth and elastic bands they got swapped round!
Been around the outdoor industry for 45 years; original foul-weather gear needed solid impermeable coatings like neoprene, then urethane, which stank, aged, peeled, tore and leaked. Silicone liquid treatments (Scotchgard) gave marginal benefits and were the first generation analogues to DWR, but worked better on natural fibers ie cotton, not nylon. Goretex was at first a disaster, because pressure and contaminants and capillary actions drew water through the supposedly hydrophobic (stretched teflon) membrane. The DWR is actually what makes Goretex and most other "breathable waterproof" systems work, as it prevents the water from ever wicking beyond the surface. The old rule is still "there is waterproof, and there is everything else"- real harsh demands separate the contenders pretty fast. "Breathability" is pure hype - wrap any one around your face and see how long you can breathe. Sweat soaks and condenses against cooler outer layers, and note that you can still sweat soak a tee shirt exercising, it's a hundred times more breathable than any storm garment. This sort of test is worthless, but will reveal the worst choices quickly. Abrasion, pressure, and extended repeated exposures to real downpours are the only adequate tests to simulate. Rustoleum Never Wet has worked better than others for previously untreated cloth, but it has a strong smell.
pretty much what you said! ;) i'm actually pretty happy with a climaloop membrane in my jacket - keeps my very dry on a walk through the rain even though dwr is off, but condensation against the outer layer in cold conditions while being very active is something that can't be overcome really. sometimes the inside is just as wet as the outside after a bike trip.
on shoes i found membrane/leather/mesh mix is not really reliable for extended use, since the toe stretch seems to tear the membrane apart - experienced that myself once and heard/read about that problem from several other people.
my meindl army mountain boots on the other hand are heavy and stiff, due to having one thick piece of black leather going from toe to heel, but as long as the leather is kept intact by applying wax regularly there is no chance for water to come into the boot.
a real bummer for me was a tatonka EXPedition (still laughing about the name!) waterproof pant - 100 km bike trip and all waterproofness was gone in the saddle section, just keeps leaking - only choice: shoe goo or so
How about Atsko ???
Hey, can you also test some Toko waterproof spray?
Sure - next time I do a video on this I will also test Toko. Thanks!
This test was “fabulous”
all you need to know 06:18
RubenRibnick the jars were switched
Always used Nikwax and will continue to do so, even if the jar were swapped ^^'
This was a bit dodgy he swapped the jars. Also the biases were being shown clearly from the start. I was surprised when at first the nwax was the loser as i have used both and stuck with that after a long 90mile hiking trip left my feat soaked and my friends bone dry (guess what we were using?)
Maybe next time you’ll mark the jars be fore you start but for you all that read the comments I live in the PNWand have used both these products on all kinds of fabrics Evan cotton and both preform well not great but well so if you want dwr buy the best gear you can afford and remember just because you sent $700. On rain gear does not mean it will out pre form my $70. Gear
just answered the same above - bought tatonka EXPedition waterproof pants, rrp was 260 bucks (only paid 35 or so in an outlet), not so long ago. went on a 100 km bike trip, got a wet butt... and it's absolutely not waterproof anymore in the saddle region and around the knees. sometimes the last resort is just using some shoe goo and additional nylon fabric in stressed regions of your waterproof clothes.
Moved your finger twice as fast in the ReviveX.
Haha i know im years late but had to check the video as well, looks like he mixed up the jars, seems nikwax is the winner
puddling water on fabric isn't the best idea to demonstrate their effectiveness.
I'm sure neither company did this when testing their DWR.
They are concerned with hydrophobic performance, breathability and wear.
This test doesn't hold any water (ahahaha)
interesting but... it's damn too long man! maybe chicks loves to see you. me? I was looking for some quick information...
Your time isn't important; quit acting like you're a big shot with a packed itinerary.
profd65 it took you 2 years to make a witty comment?you are dumb,man.
@ahti29
You're so stupid, your mom needs to be slapped for even having you.
Yea, dumb fuck: I read this comment two years ago, and I've been walking around ever since thinking about a reply to it. That's it.
buy a lavalier microphone, it will add a lot to your videos
Fail. Swapped items. Watch the rubberbands ! ! ! So Nikwax ist the better one ! ! !
Good eyes!
🤦♂️ so nikwax Is better as after the hour you swapped the jars. Why even keep the video up.
NICKWAX is crap total and utter crap I used it over and over and over on a pair of pants that let RAIN WATER in within 5 mins
too much irrelevant info
Defo swapped
not good at all
When I hear that a product is "environmentally friendly", I immediately suspect that the performance has been compromised. I only care about COST and PERFORMANCE.
Goretex is a joke. For the price, under some conditions, you are better off with a cheap plastic jacket. Throw it out and get a new one if it tears or wears out. $10 vs $500.
don't know so much about gore tex in jackets - haven't had one so far. some of my experiences: i'm using a pyua snowboard jacket (rrp was ~500$) with a climaloop membrane since a couple of years and i'm preeetty happy with that!
tatonka EXPedition pants (rrp~260$) didn't stand 100 km of a bicycle trip, is absolutely no more waterproof in the saddle region and around the knees... absolute garbage! ...except it's 100% nylon - can be fixed.
... as well as some merrel chameleon 3 gore tex (rrp~250$) shoes. both toe sections started soaking after not even half a year. the shoe is still kinda great, like the feeling a lot, they're just not waterproof/not reliable.
shoe wise i wouldn't trust any membrane really - there's so much stretching and rubbing going on, i don't think membranes can handle that for extended periods.
bought some meindl army mountain boots (the black ones) afterwards, somewhat heavy and stiff, but always dry!... since years n years! they have one piece of fat leather from toe to heel, you wax that regularly and you're good.
conclusion: you can waste loads of money on products you wonder if they have been properly tested in field... if i had payed the full prices i actually would've wanted to slap some people in da face... with a shovel ;)
mostly got that stuff from outlet stores, 70% off, cause manufacturers/sellers have to clean out their storage for new super fancy stuff... that has also not been field tested.
READ OUTDOOR AND HUNTING FORUMS WHERE ACTUAL PEOPLE TELL ABOUT THEIR EXPERIENCES BEFORE BUYING STH.!
most of the design errors can easily be fixed with some nylon fabric and seam grip/shoe goo ;)
never buy that environmentally friendly allstar gum crap - not water proof! looks like shoe goo when dryed, you let that soak in water for an hour and it gets soft and tears up all over the place, leaves you with a friggin mess!
I know this comment is a couple years old, but had to reply. I couldn't disagree more, I have a gore-tex jacket that's still going strong at 11 years old, and after having spent 3 yrs taking a beating in Afghanistan. Still repels water extremely well, only getting mildly damp inside even during heavy downpours.